The subtleties of finishing the ceiling of plastic panels. How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels and why it is profitable Sheathing the walls of ceilings with pvc panels

If there is a desire to update the interior in the living room, in the bathroom, hallway or, then you can’t do without ceiling reconstruction. And one of the options may be to install a plastic lining on it. Today, in the assortment of building stores there are many polymer panels made in various colors or with patterns that imitate natural finishing materials - stone or wood of various species. Therefore, this cladding can be chosen for any, the most sophisticated interior, made in the style you like.

How to independently, so that the final result looked “professional”, became an integral part of the design of the entire room? This question arises for everyone who starts repairing residential premises, and you need to try to answer it within the framework of this article.

Characteristics of PVC ceiling panels

Finishing polymer panels, as a rule, consist of two thin plates spaced apart at a certain distance, between which stiffeners are placed, which connect the outer and inner sides and at the same time make the material more durable. On the sides of the panels there are elements for connecting individual parts to each other, arranged according to the "thorn-groove" principle. They facilitate the installation of panels and securely hold them in any position strictly in one plane.

PVC lining, designed for installation on the ceiling, can have dimensions in length from 2400 to 6000 mm, and the width of the strips varies from 100 to 500 mm, thickness - from 5 to 12 mm.
The panels are produced with a variety of surfaces - they can be glossy and matte, perfectly white or colored, in the form of tiles and laths, with or without a textured pattern.
For high-quality finishing, PVC panels are completed with the necessary assortment of fitting profile elements that help to give a finished look to any of the surfaces lined with this material.

— The outer corner closes the panel joint at the outer corners. Its design allows you to hide the joints of cut unsightly edges.

- F-profile is used to decorate the edges of the finishing structure. You can’t do without it, for example, when facing window slopes, or when finishing a ceiling that has several tiers.

- The docking profile is used in cases where the lining changes its direction. For example, panels are first installed on the ceiling along and then across, which helps to divide the surface into different design zones.

- The inner corner is installed at the junction of the ceiling and walls, in the event that it is not planned to mount a ceiling plinth in this place.

– The starting profile can be installed in different places of the structure, where it is required to close the edge of the plastic panel.

- Ceiling plinth mounted along the perimeter of the ceiling before installing the lining panels giving the design neatness and completeness. To connect the skirting board at the corners, special connecting corners will be needed, under which the cut edges of the skirting board are hidden.

The material from which the panels are made is environmentally friendly, recognized by the Ministry of Health as safe for the human body.
The surface, decorated with plastic panels, is easy to put in order, it lends itself to both wet and dry cleaning.
The service life of this material, with proper installation and care, can be 10 ÷ 12 years, without losing the original appearance.
The ease of installation allows, even in the absence of experience in this work, to carry out the process of installing the material on the desired surface on your own, without the involvement of specialists.
The price of plastic lining is not too high, so if one or more panels are damaged, they can be replaced with new ones, without damage to the rest of the surface.

Criteria for choosing plastic ceiling panels

When buying PVC panels, you need to rely on several selection criteria:

Panel size: width, thickness and length.

According to the length of the water, it must be said separately - it must be chosen in such a way that as little waste as possible remains. For example, with a room width of 2400 mm, it is worth buying a lining with a length of 2500 or 5000 mm.

Since the panels can be of different quality, their price also varies significantly. You should not buy a cheap finishing material, as it will last a shorter period than a high-quality one. Determining the quality of the panels is not so difficult, paying attention to the following points:

– Appearance: the correctness of the geometry of the panels, the quality of the surface, its evenness and uniform distribution of the pattern. Stiffenersinstalled inside the lining should not appear on its surface.

In high-quality panels, the thickness of the outer walls should be at least 1.5–2 mm, the same applies to stiffeners - the more stable they are, the longer the material will last. If, when pressed with fingers, the ribs bend, this indicates a low quality of the material, since they should not respond to such an impact.

- To the touch, the surface should be uniform and perfectly even, longitudinal and transverse distortions are unacceptable on it.

- It is necessary to check the ease of joining the two panels. To do this, they need to be connected and see if a single plane is obtained without gaps, or if the surface has unforeseen gaps. High-quality panels should fit easily, the spike should completely go into the groove, leaving no clearly visible assembly marks on the surface.

Checking the quality of the material - when bending, the plastic should not break

“Another quality criterion is checking the plastic for bending. To do this, it is necessary to bend and unbend the corner of the protruding mounting strip near the panel groove several times. If after these manipulations there are no traces left on its surface, and it remains intact, it means that the material for manufacturing was of high quality, and the technology for forming parts was fully observed.

Prices for popular types of plastic ceiling panels

Plastic ceiling panels

Calculation of the required amount of materials

In order to calculate the required amount of lining for decorating the ceiling in a particular room, you need to carry out the following calculations:

Determine the area of the ceiling and one panel.
Then the resulting surface size must be divided by the area of the panel - the result will be the number of elements required for installation.
It is recommended to add 15% to the result obtained, and then this number is rounded up to the nearest integer.
To determine the length of the fitting start profile and the ceiling cornice, two lengths and two widths of the ceiling surface are added, and then 15% of the resulting total perimeter is also added to it.
To know how much metal profile or wooden beam is required for frame assembly, which will be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling and on its surface, you need to carry out the following calculation:

- You can determine the length of the frame elements installed along the perimeter in the same way as when calculating the required number of starting profile.

- Then the size of the ceiling surface between the walls must be divided into equal lengths from 400 to 600 mm. Lines will later pass through them, along which the middle guide battens will be fixed - this will determine the amount of timber (metal profile), and its length will be equal to the width or length of the room, depending on the planned orientation of the finishing material.

If a beam is chosen for the frame, its cross section should be 20 × 50 mm.

In the event that a metal profile is selected for the crate, you can use the table to calculate the number of parts that may be required to mount the frame:

Part name and size in mm	unit of measurement	Consumption rate per 1 sq.m
Ceiling profile CD 60/27	Linear meter	3.2
Profile extension 60/110. Used to increase, if necessary, the length of the main profile	PCS.	0.6
Straight ceiling hanger 60/27	PCS.	1.3
Single-level connector (crab) 60/27	PCS.	It can be used to reinforce the frame, for example, when installing additional jumpers or in places where fixtures are installed. Quantity is calculated locally.
Self-tapping screw TN 25	PCS.	17
Dowels for fixing frame elements on the ceiling	PCS.	1.3

In addition, you will need to purchase self-tapping screws with a wide head (press washer), with which the lining will be attached to a metal profile or wooden beam, at the rate of 1 pc. for 500 mm length of lining panels.

What else needs to be done before starting the installation of the crate?

Even if the unsightly surface of the ceiling is completely lined with plastic panels, this does not mean at all that it does not need to be put in order.

It is necessary to carry out certain repairs - and if necessary - even with the subsequent priming of the surface with antifungal compounds. Recommendations for performing these operations are on the pages of our portal.

Installation of the crate under the ceiling panels

Ceiling markings

Whatever material for the frame is chosen, the markings before attaching it are approximately the same.

The ceiling on opposite sides of the room is marked into equal segments.
Then a colored twine is taken, stretched along the length or width of the room, and straight lines are beaten off on the ceiling, along which the frame guides will be attached.

Along the perimeter of the ceiling, lines are also beaten off, since the bars or profiles will first of all be attached in these areas. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that if the ceiling is lowered on suspensions, then the markings for the extreme profiles are done on the walls below the joint line to the distance that it is planned to lower the entire structure.
If the crate is not mounted on the ceiling surface itself, but in a suspended state, lowered to a certain distance, on broken lines, at a distance of 500 ÷ 700 mm from each other, marks are made along which the suspensions will be fixed.

Frame installation

There are several ways to mount the frame:

1. The installation of the frame is planned to be lowered to a certain distance, begins with fixing the hangers at the marked points of the broken lines. To do this, holes are drilled in the ceiling through a plumb line with a drill, into which two or three dowels are driven. Thus, the suspensions are fixed on the entire surface of the ceiling.

Further, on the walls, along the marked lines, a metal profile is fixed. Holes are also drilled through it in the wall with a step of 300 ÷ 350 mm, and dowels are driven into them.

After that, a metal profile is installed in the suspensions at the desired height, and fixed on both sides with metal screws.

The ends of the suspension profile are installed in the guide profile on the walls and are also fixed with two self-tapping screws.

If desired, instead of a suspended metal profile 60 × 27, wooden bars can be used.
After that, in places where the fixtures will be fixed, the profile or slats are reinforced with jumpers.

They can be fixed with the help of "crabs", or by cutting the profiles at the corners and bending them at a right angle.

2. Another option for fixing a wooden frame is to install a beam directly on the ceiling or on linings that are used instead of hangers.

The edges of the wooden beam on the walls are also installed and fixed in metal guide profiles or also on a beam mounted on the wall and fixed with metal corners.

The beam is nailed to the ceiling with dowels through holes drilled through it. In this case, you need to purchase dowels of such length that they enter the ceiling by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
If wooden linings of the required thickness are installed between the ceiling and the wooden frame, then they are attached to the ceiling, and a beam is screwed onto them with the help of self-tapping screws.

After the installation of the frame is completed, electrical wiring is pulled between its elements for the installation of lighting fixtures.

For safety reasons, it is recommended that electrical wires be pulled through a special insulating wire that can be attached to hangers or side parts of a metal profile. When wiring, the cables must not be powered by electricity. Connection is carried out only after completion of all work on fixing the lining and installing fixtures.

Installation of plastic panels

Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way, what on a frame made of metal profile, what on made of wooden beams. It is worth noting that screwing screws into wood is easier than into metal elements, but, on the other hand, a galvanized profile frame is much lighter in total.

So, the installation of plastic panels occurs in the following sequence:

Along the perimeter of the ceiling, a starting U-shaped bar is screwed onto a metal profile or a wooden beam.

Instead, a rail can be fixed for the installation of a ceiling plinth, if it is planned to mount it.

Further, the ceiling plinth itself is installed in the bar, which, together with the bar, forms a gap for installing plastic panels into it.
To make it very clear how these two parts are mounted, you need to carefully consider the following photo.

Further, in the U-shaped profile or in the gap formed by the ceiling plinth and the lath, the first sheathing panel is installed.

The lining panel is aligned and screwed to each bar or frame profile with a wide-head self-tapping screw.

The next panel is inserted with its spike into the groove of the previous one, thereby hiding the screw head. It is necessary to ensure the full entry of the mating elements along the entire length of the panel, so that there are no gaps or distortions. The inserted panel is fixed in the same way - using self-tapping screws.
In the future, these operations are repeated with each next panel.

On the panels of the lining, which fall into the place where it should be installed, holes are cut out before installation, and a cable is passed through them immediately during installation.
The difficulty is the installation of the last element of the skin, since this process must be carried out very carefully. The main catch here is to get the panel into the groove of the previous one and into the gap of the starting profile or ceiling plinth. This is difficult to do, so it will be easier to attach the panel to the wall with self-tapping screws through, and then the heads will be hidden by the ceiling plinth.

The last stage is closed at the joints with a special corner, which closes the sections of this decorative and functional element.
After the installation of the cladding is completed, spotlights are connected to the electrical cables.

Switching the electrical wiring of lamps ...

Then the cable is tucked under the installed panel, and the lamp is inserted into the hole, fixed on special metal "ears" - struts.

... and installation of fixtures in the sockets intended for them.

Masters who are professionally involved in the installation of ceiling cladding from any type of lining recommend that during the installation of panels, constantly monitor the evenness of its rows, since the bevel of one of them will entail a decrease in the assembly quality of the entire ceiling surface.

Video: step by step Video instruction ceiling panel installation

To make such an update of the ceiling, using the recommendations and choosing the right materials, is within the power of every homeowner. Therefore, if there is such a desire, you need to boldly take up the work and carry it out slowly, carefully performing each technological operation.

You can try other options for finishing the ceiling.

Yes, a lot of people like it. True, here, most likely, you will have to face the need for careful decoration for it.

To date, one of the simplest, but effective methods for decorating a room is finishing the ceiling and walls with plastic panels. Let's take a closer look at the advantages of PVC panels and installation.

This type of material has occupied a fairly strong niche in the domestic market among other finishing materials. The composition of the panels includes durable, lightweight and hard polyvinyl chloride.
Therefore, the decoration of walls and ceilings with plastic panels is often carried out not only in residential premises, but also in offices, shops and other institutions where there is a lot of attendance.

Advantages of PVC panels

The material gained its popularity due to numerous advantages in interior decoration.
Distinctive characteristics:

A low price that attracts many consumers.
Increased moisture resistance, which allows the material to be installed in rooms with high humidity.
The strength of the material will allow it to be used for a long period.
For cleaning, you can use any means without restrictions.
It is easy to finish with plastic ceiling panels with your own hands.
PVC panels are a good sound insulator.
Finishing the ceilings with plastic panels will allow you to implement any design solution.

The disadvantages include:

The material is very sensitive to temperature changes, while the panels tend to deform.
When the ceiling is finished with plastic, it is recommended to do everything carefully, as they can be damaged with a strong blow or pressure.
Naturally, in terms of its qualities, the material is inferior to natural raw materials, so installation in the bedroom and nursery is not desirable.

Types of PVC panels

Before finishing the ceiling with plastic panels, let's take a closer look at all types of panels.
Types of panels are divided into three main types:

Slatted PVC panels that have the same appearance as the lining. Panels are mounted using mounting brackets.
PVC panels for tiles, are attached in the same way as slatted ones, but have a more attractive appearance.
Sheet PVC panels are installed with nails and glue, the gaps are sealed with a sealant or a narrow rail of the same color. Most often they have a large pattern, outwardly similar to plywood, see photo.

What should be considered before choosing panels?

Before finishing the ceiling with plastic panels, it is necessary to measure the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, after which it is necessary to determine the type of material, and also correctly determine the length and width.

Attention. If we talk about traditional sizes, they are sold in 20-50 cm wide and 5-100 mm thick matte or glossy surface.

After the maximum thickness is determined, a plastic cornice is selected next. If the walls are finished with the same material, then it is necessary to purchase special docking profiles for corners (internal and external).
The length of the panels is found from 2.6 to 6 m. Therefore, when calculating the area, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions so that a minimum amount of waste remains at the finish.
The ideal plastic ceiling finish is when the dimensions of the ceiling match the material.

Attention. When choosing panels, you need to pay attention to the quality of the material. If waves and drops are found on the surface, then the finish will turn out with distortions.
Defective material is not recommended to be installed even in corner and invisible places, anyway, one element can affect the design as a whole.

When choosing a quality material, the ceiling will last a long period of operation, and the surface will be perfectly flat.

Any type of finishing work involves the use of the necessary materials and tools.
For finishing we need:

Perforator.
Screwdriver.
Scissors.
Hacksaw.
Building level.
Roulette.
Square.
Pencil.
Metal profiles or wooden slats for the crate.
Stationery knife.

Finishing plastic ceilings provides for several methods of installation. The choice of method directly depends on the surface and the level of humidity in the room.

Installation methods, instruction

One of the ways is frameless, PVC panels are installed directly on the ceiling or walls. This method is used if the surface is relatively flat.
The second method, wireframe. In this case, finishing the ceilings with plastic begins with the installation of the crate.
The frame can be made of wood or metal profiles.

Frameless finish

PVC panels in this case are attached immediately to the surface, liquid nails or special glue are used as fasteners. The method is applied only in a dry room.
The adhesive composition is applied with a notched trowel, which is used when installing tiles. Frameless installation will significantly save time on frame assembly.
The photo shows the installation of PVC panels using the frameless method.

Listening. Using the frameless method, it should be remembered that it will not be possible to install recessed fixtures.

Mounting panels with a frame

If the room with high humidity or the surface is uneven, then you can not do without a special crate. For assembly, you will need wooden bars, plastic and metal profiles.

Remember. A wooden frame is best used in a dry room. If for some reason this is not possible, then the frame must be carefully treated with special means before installation.

To finish the wooden frame you will need:

Reiki (from 1-4 cmX4-5 cm).
Dowels or self-tapping screws.
Electric drill.
Building level.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.

Wooden slats are first fastened around the entire perimeter, then in increments of 40 cm, using dowel nails or self-tapping screws. PVC panels are attached to a wooden frame with a stapler or small nails.
For a metal frame, you will need all the materials and tools that you need for installation under a plasterboard structure. The frame is installed similarly to drywall, only without transverse profiles.
UD goes along the perimeter of the room, and CD is hung across the panels.

In order to mask the joints, you can use an L-start and a foam plinth. The very last panel will most likely need to be driven and fixed with glue.
Ceiling plinth will help hide all the cracks. In order to have a slight deflection in the middle, it is recommended to insert the very first panel into the fillets on the sides and slightly press against the frame, advancing until the element enters the parallel fillet.
In the case of wooden frames, a construction stapler is used, with metal, self-tapping screws. For more detailed information, you can watch the tutorial video.

Properties of PVC panels

To know exactly what to expect from this type of material, you need to refer to the properties of polyvinyl chloride:

Absence of hygroscopicity.
Waterproof.
The absence of large pores (therefore, they are not subject to rapid contamination).

For reference. Please note that during installation, glossy panels almost do not get dirty. Contaminants may remain on the matte surface, which can be easily removed.

The density of plastic is much greater than that of water, the material is considered heavy, however, the honeycomb structure provides light weight with optimal rigidity. The material is also resistant to alkalis, so you can safely use household chemicals, but it is light-melting, here you should be wary of temperatures above 80 degrees.
When installing PVC panels on a crate, there is no binding to a rough load-bearing uneven ceiling.
Inside it is possible to hide all electrical wires and communications. Spotlights can be easily mounted into the ceiling directly in place.
There are only 2 reasons why a user may refuse a material in favor of a different finish:

If the room is provided with too bright lighting, you will have to abandon too bright halogens in favor of LED lamps.
Longitudinal seams are visible even in seamless panels, this is especially problematic for large rooms.

The use of PVC ceilings in the interior

In this case, the use of plastic panels is often used in small wet rooms.
This includes the categories:

Kitchen.
Bathroom(see Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels: how to do it yourself).
Toilet.
Narrow corridors.

For rooms such as a hall, a nursery or a bedroom, plasterboard ceilings and stretch structures are more suitable. By what parameters you can choose PVC ceilings, here you should be based on the design of the room.
Light shades visually make the room much higher and more spacious, and the glossy surface further enhances this feeling, but emphasizes irregularities. Therefore, during installation work, care must be taken.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, you need to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, because the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is even and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. Having tried it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

If desired, even a person without experience can sheathe the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic. Especially if he has detailed instructions in his assistants on how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. The main stages and nuances can be seen in the video.

There is nothing difficult in installing a false ceiling sheathed with plastic panels, which is why many homeowners think about doing all the work on their own. But even experienced builders sometimes do not know all the nuances of working with plastic, and for craftsmen without experience, a step-by-step guide is all the more useful.

If desired, each owner can make a plastic ceiling in his bathroom

Why plastic panel ceiling

Polyvinyl chloride, also known as PVC, is a practical and fairly reliable finishing material that is great for rooms with high humidity. The ceiling made of plastic panels is easy to care for, it is not afraid of mold. A variety of colors and textures allows you to decorate the bathroom in the most suitable color scheme.

Of course, plastic is inferior to the aesthetics of stretch ceilings, but it allows you to quickly and most importantly inexpensively update the room.

PVC panels for the ceiling can be of different colors

Design features of suspended ceilings

The design of the false ceiling is quite simple - it is a frame that is attached to the base ceiling and sheathed with a suitable finishing material. If we are talking about a bathroom, then it is better to make the frame not from wooden beams, but from metal profiles for drywall.

When the reinforcing profiles are attached directly to the ceiling, the structure is called hemmed, but if they are lowered on suspensions, it is suspended. The ceiling frame consists of thin wall profiles (UD) screwed along the perimeter of the room and wide rails (CD) that are attached perpendicular to the plastic strips.

Suspended ceiling fixing

How to choose plastic panels

To choose a really high-quality material, be sure to pay attention to the stiffeners, the more there are, the stronger and more reliable the panel will be and the less risk that after a few years it will deform under its own weight and from moisture. Coloring should be uniform, without lubrication, smudges, and even more so without unpainted areas. The reverse side of the panel must be uniformly colored and even.

Types of plastic panels

Calculation of the required number of panels

PVC panels go on sale in widths of 10, 25 and 50 cm, lengths from 2.5 to 4 or 6 meters. To accurately calculate the amount of material, you need to select the panels in advance, determine their direction in the room and measure the length of all sides of the sheathed ceiling. For example, the dimensions of the room are 2.5 * 2.7 meters, the panels (0.5 * 3 m) will be laid along the larger wall. That is, their length of 3 meters will just be enough, there will be a small pruning.

Width: 2.5 m / 0.5 m = 5 pieces. Of course, it is unlikely that anyone will want to buy an extra three-meter panel for reinsurance, but at least you need to make sure that the store still has material from this batch (others may differ in color) and in case of damage to the panel, there will be where to buy the same.

Adjusting the size of the plastic panel for the ceiling

PVC profiles and cornices

There are several types of various components, in particular profiles and cornices for mounting PVC, in stores, but not all of them may be needed, so you need to familiarize yourself with the main ones in advance and decide which ones are needed and in what quantity.

Starting profile - fixed around the perimeter of the room and serves to fix the panels and hide their ends.
An H-shaped profile is needed to join the two ends of the panel if one strip is not enough for the entire length of the room.
PVC ceiling plinth - in fact, this is the same starting profile, but with a decorative border.
Universal corner - with its help you can cover any joints. In the installation of the ceiling, it is practically not used, except in multi-level structures.

Types of fasteners for false ceiling

Purchase of material for the crate

For the crate, you will need profile guides (CD) and wall guides (UD), their standard length is 3 or 4 meters. The required length of the wall profiles is equal to the perimeter of the room; if possible, a solid profile is attached along one wall. Wide profile guides are attached in increments of 60 cm. You will also need straight or anchor hangers, quick-mount dowels and flea screws.

Preparatory work

The beauty of suspended ceilings is that the base base does not need to be primed, puttied, and generally specially prepared. Only the old finish is removed, and the surface is recommended to be treated with an antifungal compound. But sometimes they don’t even do that, the old whitewash or paint just hides under the new ceiling.
It is worth considering how high the ceiling will be lowered. The minimum indent is equal to the thickness of the crate, but if spotlights are installed or ventilation is hidden under the ceiling, then they are repelled from their maximum height. It is not recommended to lower the ceiling by more than 40 cm.

Ceiling prepared for installation of a suspended structure

Frame installation

Begin work with markings around the perimeter. A line is drawn on the walls strictly according to the level, and a new ceiling will begin on it. If the walls are tiled, you can draw a line just along the seam between the tiles.

When the markup is done, cut the guide wall profile and drill holes in it in increments of 50 cm. You can also drill directly on the wall if you have an assistant, but if you don’t have one, it will be difficult to make the first pair of fasteners. From the turns of the drill, the profile walks a little and can loosen the previous fastening, this happens especially often in old buildings, where a thick layer of plaster or a ceiling line coincided with the masonry seam.

Installation of the crate under the plastic ceiling

For the installation of guide profiles, it is more convenient to use dowels "quick installation". They are inserted into a drilled hole and clogged with a hammer. Next, measure and cut a wide guide profile. If the bath is perfectly flat, you can cut all the strips at once, but if the walls are at an angle, as is often the case in Khrushchev, it is better to take individual measurements for each profile and cut them off separately.

The profiles are lowered to the required height using straight or anchor hangers in increments of about 60 cm.

Wiring

Scheme: arrangement of electrical wiring

After mounting the frame, wires are brought to the points where the lamps will be and fixed. It’s not worth saving on the “tails”, a long wire can always be cut off, but it is undesirable to build it up, especially in the bathroom. If a chandelier hangs on the ceiling, the structure is reinforced at the place of its installation, an additional suspension is installed, and the profile is pre-placed in such a step that the chandelier is attached to the metal base. If this is not possible, a transverse jumper is attached.

Advice! The performance of the electrical wiring should be checked in advance.

Installation of plastic panels

The starting profile, in which the panels will be fixed, is attached from below to the wall profile with self-tapping screws. It can also be glued directly to the tile with "liquid nails".
With a hacksaw, electric jigsaw or a construction knife, cut off the panel of the required length, insert one end of it into the U-shaped plastic guide, slightly bend and lead the other end of the panel into the opposite U-shaped profile. The panel is aligned and brought into the longitudinal starting profile.

Advice! If spotlights will be mounted in the ceiling, it is more convenient to cut holes for them before installing the panel, manually or with a “crown” drill attachment. But in this case, the panel becomes more fragile and may crack if it is excessively deflected.

Fastening locks are located on both sides of the panel. After installing the first panel, the lock on one side of it will be hidden in the starting profile, and on the other, it is screwed to the guide profile with screws with a press washer. The next panel is mounted in the same way.

Scheme: installation of plastic panels

It is cut, the ends are inserted in turn into the profile guides, the canvas is leveled and pressed tightly against the lock of the previous panel until it clicks lightly. There should be no gaps along the entire length between the panels.

The last panel rarely enters its full width, so it is cut with a construction knife. To simplify the installation, it is made somewhat shorter than the distance from one wall to the other, so that it literally goes a few millimeters onto the profile on each side.

First, the panel is placed in one of the corners and from it it is brought into the longitudinal starting profile, when the panel has entered completely, it is leveled and pulled to the lock of the previous panel.

If it sits too tightly and you can’t pull it up with your palm, you can glue a piece of ordinary tape on each side and pull on the free edge of the tape.

Advice! An interesting solution may be to fasten plastic panels diagonally, but this method is rarely used, since it is quite laborious. In addition, you can create multi-level suspended ceilings.

Installation of panels without U-shaped plastic profiles

Installation of plastic panels to the frame

When the walls in the bathroom are even and the frame is properly made, the panels can be screwed directly to the profiles. This method is simpler, especially considering the difficulties with installing the last panel, but no less reliable. The joint between the walls and the ceiling is covered with an ordinary baguette, which is fixed with “liquid nails”.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom: video

Plastic ceiling in the bathroom: photo

How to attach panels and sew up the ceiling can be viewed in video tutorials

Plastic has firmly entered human life, and this applies not only to our everyday life. It is actively used in interior decoration. This is the most practical and inexpensive material, which also has a fairly wide range. They are sheathed with walls and ceilings of rooms, one way or another associated with high humidity and pollution.

Today we will look at how to sheathe the ceiling with pvc panels correctly, what should be done for this and what should be avoided.

Such simple and complex panels

At the very beginning, you need to consider the benefits. Why at the very beginning?

The fact is that knowledge of the capabilities of the material allows you to correctly use it in certain premises, or on certain objects.

Size matters

PVC panels are polyvinyl chloride plates with a length of 2300 to 6000 mm.
In this case, the width of the plates ranges from 100 to 920 mm.
The plates are voluminous, the thickness is from 5 to 10 mm.

The most common size is a plate 2700X250X10 mm.

plastic lining

Speaking of thickness, we meant exactly the whole plate. But you need to understand that the PVC panel is a three-dimensional structure, consisting of a harder outer layer and internal stiffeners.
Along the edges of the panels there is a specially made configuration, commonly referred to as dad - mom, and in other words, a spike - a groove. Due to this, the individual panels form a single surface with a very tight connection.
Many are probably familiar with eurolining, as PVC panels are sometimes also referred to as such, for a similar fastening system for individual elements.
PVC panels are light due to the empty internal space. And due to the stiffening ribs, they have good resistance to deformation.

Reliable, beautiful, practical

The fact that the panels are made of polyvinyl chloride indicates that they are not afraid of moisture. Therefore, very often they get off rooms with high humidity or surfaces exposed to precipitation in the form of rain and snow.

Being one of the types of false ceiling, this coating allows you to hide various communication lines.

Another important advantage of this material is its price. Compared to the same eurolining, it is just a penny, and at the same time it allows you to get a very beautiful surface that does not require additional external protection and finishing.

Ease of installation is an important advantage

The material is easy to cut and drill. When mounting these panels, no special tools are required.

What doubts can there be

Indeed, almost everyone can mount such a ceiling on their own, but you still need to know that apparent simplicity does not give you the right to disparage this material.

Very often, when installing PVC panels on the ceiling, people commit gross violations, which, except as a simple contradiction to the very purpose of the material, cannot be called.
Moreover, many recommendations, and the so-called "instructions from experts" on various resources and "construction" publications, push people to make the most incredible mistakes. Do you think these are just words?
Probably, many have met instructions on how to quickly and easily mount a PVC panel ceiling in the kitchen or bathroom (read more) - we are not talking about a street gazebo and so on.
In them, it is recommended to make a frame for the ceiling made of wood, and for simplicity and, most importantly, the speed of installing panels, use a construction stapler. No doubt you have come across such statements.
At first glance, everything is correct, for a room with high humidity, panels that are not afraid of moisture are used. But then the question arises, how can this be correlated with a wooden frame.
It is clear that wood and moisture are completely incompatible things. Especially when a tree exposed to moisture is in a poorly ventilated space. Nonsense.

In fairness, however, it is worth saying that if the room is well ventilated, then you can still give preference to a wooden frame. Still, plastic protects it from direct water ingress. But hydrophobic impregnation on wood will protect against steam.

Extra work with a negative result

We figured out the protection: after installation, the wooden structure was treated with a moisture-proof coating and is of very high quality.

But we know that panels with a spike-groove fastening are installed with one edge into the adjacent panel and, on the other hand, are fixed to the frame. In this case, the recommendations suggest using a stapler.
Of course, it is easy to shoot one edge of the panel to the wood frame. Very simple and fast. But let's not rush and sort it out in order.

If we use a coating that can actively resist moisture and at the same time take care of the moisture resistance of the frame, then how can we use such a mount?
Imagine that your ceiling will eventually be fastened to the frame with staples from a stapler. What are construction staplers? These are very thin metal rods bent by the letter "P". Their thickness reaches one fraction of a millimeter, agree very little.
We have a question - how long do you think the staples will last under the influence of moist air? At the same time, the service life of the panels themselves exceeds 10 years.
The answer suggests itself, this design is doomed to rapid deformation and destruction.
Given the fact that it will take a lot of effort and time to protect the wooden frame from moisture, then this method is nothing more than a real contradiction to the very purpose of the material.

What happens: The material itself is moisture resistant, but at the same time it is fixed on an unreliable frame, using fasteners unable to withstand moisture. This repair a la "Ravshan-Dzhamshut" is a waste of time and money.

Correct installation - choose panels

Let's look at how to mount these panels on the ceiling with your own hands correctly - and most importantly, reliably.

What else is worth remembering before starting installation work?

Today's construction market offers an extensive range of panels, the choice of which depends on the nature of the following work, the characteristics of the room and its dimensions. A banal example is to choose the right length of the panels in order to minimize the amount of waste or get rid of them altogether.

Advice! Avoid cheap PVC panels, as they will not only smell and look bad, but they will also not be able to survive the slightest mechanical stress, although this is not so important for a ceiling, on the other hand.

It is better to postpone the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling if the ambient temperature is below 0° C. Unpacked panels that have previously been outdoors in low temperatures (up to 10° C) should stand at room temperature for approximately 12 hours. If they are brought in from frost, the “acclimatization” time is at least 48 hours.

Tools for the job

It is good to perform accurate and relatively complex work with your own hands only if you have a serviceable and functional tool.

You can’t make a ceiling with a saw and a shovel, so prepare in advance and check the condition of the following items:

Hacksaw with fine teeth, transverse;

Hammer weighing up to 400 grams;

Staple gun;

An impact drill with a screwdriver function, but a hammer drill is better;

Screwdriver;

Measuring devices and marking accessories;

Building level from 1 meter long;

Slotted screwdriver and curly screwdriver.

materials

Now we will select the necessary material. Naturally, the panels are in the foreground.

What you should pay your closest attention to:

There should be no dents or holes on the surface;
The surface must have a uniform uniform color;
A high-quality panel should be even along the entire length without bends and waves;
Slight, smooth bends are allowed, which will straighten out after fastening to the frame crate.

Attention! The panels should fit together, forming an almost imperceptible tight seam. Insert one panel into another, and make sure that the connection is good.

Frame is very important

We figured out the panels, it was the turn to choose the right material for the frame. As we have already understood, it is undesirable to use wood for rooms with high humidity - it not only rots, but is also capable of large deformation from external influences. So, we need a metal profile.

Our advice: if you want to get a high-quality and reliable frame, use a galvanized profile for it. This decision is the most correct in this situation.

Proper fastening - long service life

As for the fastening of the panels themselves: there can be only one answer - the use of self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Of course, you can use other types of self-tapping screws, but the ones proposed by us are the most preferable: they will not damage the edge of the panel, while their head will not interfere with the next one.

These self-tapping screws are both piercing and drilling. This does not affect the quality of the fastening, so choose for yourself what suits you best.

Installation - where to start

It's time to assemble the structure, but before that you need to decide one more thing:

On our resource, we have already described many suspended ceilings, and we always said that before starting work, it is desirable to draw a diagram, as well as solve the issue of its functionality.
Functionality means the possibility of a false ceiling not just decorating an existing ceiling. it also means the ability to hide various communication lines.
From whether you need to hide something or not, the final height of your ceiling directly depends.

Important - The larger the size of communications, the more inter-ceiling space you will need, and accordingly, your new ceiling will be lower - and vice versa.

We have already discussed this issue, so we will not repeat it. Next, you need to mark up for the installation and installation of the frame. The best option in this case would be to use a hydraulic level.

Our advice - if the room in which you plan to mount the ceiling is small, in this case you can do without a hydraulic level. Use a regular building level and a large ruler or even rail.

According to the marks obtained, draw a line around the entire perimeter at the level of fastening the frame profile.

Suspended ceilings - general solutions

By and large, the installation of a PVC ceiling is not much different from fixing its other types, whether it be drywall, etc.

How is the ceiling sheathing made, or how to fix the panels

Our pages describe in some detail all the ways to perform markup, and therefore we will not focus on this. After all, our regular readers are already familiar with this procedure. Next along the line, you need to fix the guides.

Our advice is to use the UD profile as guides.

Someone may have a question about how to attach the profile to the wall. Let's say right away: there is no unequivocal answer to this question - it all depends on the material of the walls. In any case, the mount must be reliable and durable.
The assembly of the frame is no different from other suspended ceilings, all the rules remain the same. We have written a lot about this on our pages, so we will not repeat ourselves.
Those who are unfamiliar with this procedure can read in the relevant sections of our resource and read the detailed instructions, supplemented by a video.

When the frame is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of the panels themselves. But before that, we want to give you one more small recommendation: sometimes it may happen that the frame is already assembled, and the ceiling parts themselves have just been delivered.

Then:

Do not immediately start installation.
The plastic parts must be acclimatized in the installation room.
Leave them in the room for a day, and only after that you can proceed directly to the installation.

With the right approach, you will get no worse than in the examples of finished ceilings below:

Adhesive mount

The easiest way to attach panels to the ceiling is with a sticker.

Terms

The surface of the ceiling is even and durable (that is, it does not have level differences of more than 2-3 millimeters and peeling coatings like lime whitewash).

Advantages

There are two of them:

Limiting cheapness of finishing (since there are no costs for crate);
Preservation of the original height of the room. It will decrease only by the thickness of the panel (8-10 mm).

disadvantages

Mounting with adhesive does not allow compensation for floor irregularities. Meanwhile, the differences between the plates are often measured in centimeters;

The sticker of panels excludes hidden and laying of engineering communications above the ceiling (wiring, ventilation, etc.);
The strength of the ceiling is highly dependent on the quality of the adhesive you choose.

Adhesive selection

To stick plastic on concrete floors, you can use:

Image	Description
	Liquid Nails. The author recommends the use of rubber mounting adhesive: it securely fixes the panel without requiring it to be temporarily secured with props.
	Silicone sealant. It is advisable to choose a high-quality sealant from a well-known manufacturer (under the brands Ceresit, Moment, Grover, etc.): inexpensive products from little-known manufacturers have poor adhesion to smooth surfaces, including plastic.

Please note: for the setting time of the sealant (15-20 minutes), each panel will have to be fixed with props.

Auxiliary materials

In addition to the panels themselves, you will need:

Acrylic penetrating primer. It will improve the adhesion of the mounting adhesive to the base;

Foam ceiling baguette. It will hide the adjoining panels to the walls.

Technology

Work begins with a primer: the surface is impregnated with primer twice with an interval of 10-15 minutes (without intermediate drying) using a wide brush or roller.

For cutting panels along the length, a grinder with a cutting wheel for steel or stone is used: it gives a cut without jams and burrs. Rubber mounting adhesive is applied to the panel in stripes or dots, after which it is pressed against the ceiling, torn off and after 2-3 minutes (when the glue begins to set) is pressed again - finally.

The next panel is glued only after the glue has reached the minimum strength (after 10-15 minutes). The last panel is cut not only in length, but also in width.

The ceiling baguette can be glued to the same liquid nails or, more conveniently, to acrylic putty, which is also used to grout joints between individual skirting boards.

Conclusion

We have analyzed the main subtleties regarding the question of how to hem the ceiling with pvc panels - including the most common mistakes that occur in this case. If this information seems insufficient to someone, read the relevant articles on our resource for installing a suspended ceiling frame or fixing various coatings. Good luck to you!