The main criteria for choosing a hand tool is considered to be quality and convenience. How well it fits in your hand largely determines the flawlessness of the work done with it. These requirements are most relevant for an ax, when using which high productivity and safety depend on the material of the ax and its correct attachment.
Considering that the dynamic load on the ax is quite high, and working with it is associated with an increased risk of injury, especially with inept handling or lack of experience, it is necessary to know how to make the ax correctly and be able to fit it.
Varieties of axes
Axes are of several types, and each has its own purpose. Professionals distinguish this tool by its butt width, which can be wide, medium and narrow. At the same time, some use it for universal work, others for logging, and some varieties are used for neat carpentry work.
The main types of axes:
- cleavers;
- for felling timber;
- construction;
- tourist.
Within each of these groups, there are various tool options designed for narrow-profile or other special jobs.
A striking example of this is the fire ax. His device is no different from others, but opposite the blade he has a sharpened pickaxe. With its help, you can hook heavy objects, gain a foothold on the roof or break door locks.
Handle differences
Hatchet - this is the name of the handle for an ax. There are many varieties, made from different materials. Plastic and metal copies are not in widespread demand, and their practicality can be confidently questioned. The most common wooden components of the tool are capable of damping inertial vibrations during operation.
Axes classification by handle:
There are a number of other varieties, but they are professional, designed for special work that requires specific skills.
For example, an ax with a straight short handle and a small, angled, sharp blade is used for wood carving.
Handle attachment
To figure out how to properly fit an ax on a hatchet, you need to decide on the method of attachment. There are several of them and they depend on professional skills, experience and product material. It will take a little time, some carpentry tools and wedges.
Ax attachment methods:
- Welding. This method is suitable for metal-tipped axes.
- Gluing. The butt of the ax and the hatchet are glued together with epoxy glue in a special chamber.
- Wedging - this method is most preferable for performing the procedure at home. The ax must be put on the handle and wedged.
The handle must be prepared in advance. The joint with the butt must be processed so that it tapers slightly, but at the same time ensures a tight fit. At the very end of the handle, a longitudinal cut is made for the subsequent installation of the wedge.
Having firmly planted the butt, you may be faced with the fact that part of the wooden handle will protrude beyond its limits. This is normal, the excess will need to be cut off at the end of the work. After that, a metal wedge is hammered.
Wooden wedges are sometimes used, but it should be borne in mind that their density should be significantly higher than that of the material from which the handle is made. Before hammering, they are greased with wood glue.
Driving multiple wedges
In order for all component parts of the tool to be securely fixed, they resort to wedging with several elements. On the seat of the handle, cuts are made in the form of a lattice for five wedges. The width of the gaps should be 1 mm, and the depth should not be more than two-thirds of the butt.
Contrary to the claims of many professionals, using the same material for the handle and wedge will result in poor retention of the tool parts... It is necessary to use denser wood, beech, oak or hornbeam are perfect. The handles are made from ash, birch or maple.
After adjusting the size of the wedges, they are driven by two-thirds into the cuts and covered with gauze or a rag soaked in epoxy resin or wood glue. Then the butt is put on so that it provides the most tight connection. All the constituent elements are clogged, and the tool is left to dry.
Sharpening and hardening the ax
Like any other tool, the ax needs periodic care and maintenance. Over time, in everyday work, the blade dulls and productivity drops. In this case, it should be sharpened.
To perform this procedure well, you need to know how to sharpen the ax correctly. The general principle is practically no different from sharpening ordinary knives with a grinder, but you need to adhere to the rule of forming a burr.
To avoid sharpening too often, the steel must be as strong as possible, and for this it must be hardened. At home, the procedure is performed using a gas burner and used engine oil. The blade is heated to a red color and immersed in the working off, then completely cooled in water. The procedure is repeated several times.
Handle with your own hands
It is not always possible to use a factory-made ax handle. In this case, you can do it yourself according to the drawings. In this case, you need to start work with the choice of the type of wood. The best option for such a tool is birch, but maple or ash can be used.
When making a handle, you need to immediately adjust it to the dimensions of the butt of the existing blade. The main criterion should be the convenience of working with the future instrument. Therefore, special attention should be paid to conforming to the dimensions indicated in the drawings.
On a block of suitable dimensions, which does not have knots and cracks, a sketch of the handle is made. Then the excess parts are sawn off and cut off with a knife. The place for planting under the butt must be trimmed and the entire product must be sanded to perfect condition.
The result of the activity - whether it is economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but not least on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of a purchased ax, it often becomes the source of a number of problems - intense blunting of the cutting edge, regularly flying off the piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.
Wood selection
The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (always old), beech and even an apple tree. But the best option is still considered to be birch, namely, the root part of the tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax is also guaranteed.
It is more correct to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively "dehydrated".
Exposure of samples
Even an experienced craftsman may not make a quality hatchet the first time. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the handle of the ax. Opinions on the shelf life before the start of processing differ, but all agree on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3 to 4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.
It makes no sense to put fresh wood on the ax. As a result of material shrinkage, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. Undried wood is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, when there is an urgent need to make an ax, at least temporarily.
Template preparation
A good ax must have a well-defined shape. Trying to withstand it "by eye" is a futile business. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.
Axes have different uses. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter are a must. The size and shape of the handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.
What to consider:
- The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the handle does not break out of the hands of the master during the work.
- Since we all have different heights, arm lengths, the linear parameters of the ax are not a standard either. They vary within certain limits. This primarily refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for a carpentry tool - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8 - 10 cm is enough). After it is firmly planted on the ax, without splitting the tree, it is easy to cut off the excess.
If the farm has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut a template along them.
Hatchet making
With a sample, it's easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:
- workpiece marking;
- sampling of excess wood (electric / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
- finishing, grinding the ax.
- One should not rush to fine-tune the fixing part. In the process of processing the hatchet, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it fits to the butt eye. Even a small "shuttle" is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Taking into account the specifics of using the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, grinding the hatchet should alternate with its regular fitting in place and fitting within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
- When processing a workpiece under an ax, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens the wood, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For a fine finish it is more correct to use a sharp knife, glass shards, sandpaper with different grain sizes. The recommended direction for stripping and sanding is along the grain.
- It is necessary to choose the correct angle of the butt nozzle. For a universal tool used for household purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account when finalizing the fastening part of the ax.
Handle wood protection
Any tree is subject to rotting to some extent. Linseed and drying oil for the ax. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the handle will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.
The application of the compounds on the ax is carried out in several stages, while each layer must dry well.
Experienced craftsmen mix brightly colored dyes into drying oil or oil. Very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.
Ready-made hatchets are on sale. If it is decided to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and making it yourself, then it is advisable to have its approximate dimensions with you (shown in the figure above). And choose a workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it only remains to slightly adjust the handle "for yourself."
In different countries, different materials are chosen for the ax. Maple, birch, beech, oak, ash are considered to be commonly used wood. For example, in the southern part of Europe, the instrument is most often made from white acacia. In Russia and the CIS countries, the most popular material is birch. Oak and maple are considered to be reliable woods. Different countries choose different materials for the ax. Maple, birch, beech, oak, ash are considered to be commonly used wood. For example, in the southern part of Europe, the instrument is most often made from white acacia. In Russia and the CIS countries, the most popular material is birch. Oak and maple are considered to be reliable timber.
It is easy to work with birch - elementary processing and grinding. Strong impact and fatigue are not felt. The wood can withstand heavy loads and impacts. A serious drawback is rotting due to the ability to absorb moisture, which leads to a loss of strength. The birch dries up, but the shrinkage becomes too great. There is no way to protect birch from moisture somehow.
With a birch ax, you can go to the forest for a couple of days, then dry it. And everything seems to be fine, but after 1-2 months you will notice that the ax is very loose. A temporary solution to the problem is an additional wedge. You can also soak the ax in water. However, now you have to constantly soak the ax to work with it. A birch ax is not a reliable tool if you are not ready to make or buy a new one every month.
On hikes, most often the tool is needed for cutting across the fibers. As a result, the ax receives a strong load, if it is made of birch, it can loosen.
Maple ax
The maple ax is not very loose. Even if the instrument is exposed to varying humidity. The ax gets a clean and even surface, there are no problems with its processing. Maple does not rot as quickly as birch. Maple is better than oak and birch in strength, but birch is in the first place in terms of impact strength.
Ash is considered by many to be the ideal option. This is confirmed by the production of hockey sticks, baseball bats, oars, skis and so on from ash. Strength, reliability, however, wood is more rigid in comparison with birch, but ash has more advantages.
Oak and beech ax
Of the advantages - the elementary processing, long service life, high strength, elegant structure. But there are serious drawbacks - working with oak is inconvenient, because it dries your hand. If you make the handle long enough, there will be no strong recoil, but physical activity will increase. The beech is easy to work with - it has a pleasant surface. The downside is hygroscopicity. You can soak the material with oil, but the procedure will not give significant results.
Excellent impact resistance, as evidenced by the production of sports equipment from this type of wood, the manufacture of furniture. Viscosity, hardness, strength. In terms of strength, jatoba is better than oak. Outwardly, a tool made of jato will look solid (which must be taken into account when making a gift).
Advice
To make a hawk, you need chipped headers. You cannot use boards, since in this case the strength of the ax will be minimal. It is important to achieve a high flexural strength of the handle. If you choose birch, then be sure to clean the bark from the chocks and heat them on the blocks so that the inner layers dry out as quickly as possible - otherwise the birch can rot.
You cannot use only cut wood for the ax for a number of reasons:
Minimum strength;
Too much shrinkage after drying;
The wood will crack and warp.
(20
estimates, average: 4,15
out of 5)
Good quality hand tools are considered the most important criterion when choosing them. A convenient and practical tool can increase productivity, ease and eliminate many types of injuries. This is most applicable for a tool such as an ax. Its use provides for a large dynamic load, which is of great danger to humans. With inept work with an ax, the risk of injury increases many times over. To exclude this, you must first familiarize yourself with how to properly plant an ax on a hatchet. And also on the net it is worth looking for a detailed drawing of an ax.
The main types of axes
Now more than ten types of cutting tools are produced. Therefore, before planting an ax on a hatchet, you need to find out what type it belongs to. The main types are:
- carpentry;
- tourist;
- combat;
- for splitting firewood.
All axes consist of an iron part and a handle, but any type differs from the rest in its design and purpose. For each type, it is necessary to apply special methods for the correct attachment of the ax to the ax.
Ways to attach an ax to a hatchet
Experts highlight several ways to secure the ax for an ax with a butt:
For a quality work, you need good qualifications, some amount of time and a little knowledge of how to make an ax out of wood. You can do it yourself by having special skills and carpentry tools... When the metal chopping part is poorly attached to the handle or the ax is badly worn out, the process of inserting and wedging should be repeated.
Even though it is easy to connect using a nozzle and wedging, it is difficult to do this kind of work. There are small nuances in it that must be taken into account. To simplify this work, experts suggest using detailed instructions, which include the following steps:
- preparation for work;
- manufacturing of metal and wooden parts for wedging;
- nozzle and wedging.
Tips from professionals can help beginners learn how to efficiently fit an ax onto a wooden ax with their own hands.
At the very beginning you need acquire or make an ax... For its manufacture, according to experts, well-dried birch is optimal. This tree is quite popular because it has many of the characteristics needed for this. When choosing a good handle, you need to consider its shape and thickness. It is worth checking the future handle for the convenience of the girth. Failure to comply with this recommendation may lead to the need to make uncomfortable additional movements during felling, which is fraught with a decrease in labor productivity.
Next, you need to fit the hatchet under the eyelet of the metal butt. This process consists in the fact that with the help of an ordinary knife or other woodworking tool, cut the ax to the required size. Tapered lugs are considered optimal because they provide the highest quality mount... And also it is worth making a special cut at the top of the ax handle. This work must be done at the end. A cut is a special longitudinal groove made with a hacksaw. Optionally, you should make one or a couple of these cuts. Their number depends on how the attachment of the product will be made.
Experts believe that ripping with multiple side cuts is optimal. The main nuance in this work is the depth and width of the cut. The resulting groove must be completely hidden in the eyelet, because when wedging or during operation, the handle can break. Its width must correspond to the maximum thickness of the wedges. However, they should not go into the cuts very lightly or tightly, as this will cause the handle to split. Before putting the ax on the ax, it is necessary align the axes of the handle and blade.
How to make wedges
High-quality fastening of the metal part with a hatchet is possible only if it is well wedged. For such work, you will need special wedges made of wood or metal, which you can buy in a regular store or do it yourself. The dimensions and shape of the wedges must correspond to the type of cut and the material of the ax. A wedge made of wood is best made from well-dried birch. A metal wedge should be made of high quality tin.
Driving the wedge is a simple job. You need to start it when the wedges and the ax are completely made. First you need drive in a longitudinal wedge with light blows with a small hammer. No need to knock hard, because this can flatten the wood, and this will reduce the reliability of the connection. When the wedge has completely filled the entire cut, the remaining material must be cut off with a hacksaw blade. The work can be considered completed if, during the tests, the butt, planted on the ax, does not dangle and is securely held.
How wedging is performed
Many beginners think wood wedges must be the same wood as the handle. However, this is a misconception, because the tree must be very durable. It is also necessary to take into account the direction of the wood fibers, which must be parallel to the saw cut on the ax. This will prevent the wooden wedge from breaking. when driving into a deep cut... A broken wedge will not be able to spread the hatchet well. Optimum wedging is when the wedge fills the entire cut and does not jump out of it.
When making wedges, it is very important that all the dimensions of the transverse parts match the size of the eyelet. Sometimes the eyelet may have small gaps. You can eliminate them with a regular bandage, which is impregnated with epoxy resin. This material will help protect the wood from moisture and will reinforce it. To make the reinforcement, you need to wind a couple of layers of bandage around the ax before the ax is placed.
Epoxy resin is poured into the cuts made and fills all existing cracks and voids. After it hardens, you can drive the wedges. First, wooden wedges are driven in, and then metal wedges. Minimum distance between wedges should be about 0.4 centimeters. The metal wedge must be bent so that it covers the wooden one.
Features of planting an ax
The main features of an ax head are very dependent on its size and shape. The old-style products are characterized by the conical shape of the metal part, which enhances its wedging ability and avoids mistakes. It is necessary to put on an ax so that the butt of the ax and the wedge protrude one centimeter behind the eyelet. With this method of fitting, a person can fit a loose iron part into place by simply knocking the ax on any surface. Then you need to drive the wedge again, but much deeper.
In carpentry, a reverse fit of the ax is often used. Such a fit is needed when the ax is used not as the main tool, but as an additional tool of labor in order to whip or hang the workpiece. This method of attachment is often used for cleavers or sledge hammers, because wedges are not provided in them, and the load goes to the very edge of the ax, which holds the iron part of the ax.