If earlier you or your friends used the services of firms for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that the installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details on the norms, see GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! The manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.
Nevertheless, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, you can save a decent amount of money this way.
Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST
Stage 1. Measurements
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! The quarter is a 6 cm wide inner frame (or ¼ brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and reinforces the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on the anchors, and the foam will be covered with special cover strips. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
- First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster to make the result more accurate.
- Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).
Note! Measurements need to be repeated several times and take the smallest result.
To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm for the bend to the already existing drainage. Also, this takes into account the width of the insulation and cladding (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the obtained figure. With regard to the departure, then it should overlap the heating radiator by a third.
Note! are measured at the end of the installation.
Stage 2. Order
After measurements, the finished drawing should be referred to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the bag out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has its disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is put assembled, then it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.
Prices for a popular line of windows
Stage 3. Preparation
This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. For this, the glazing bead is slightly pry off with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical glazing beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the awnings. The handle is turned to "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.
Note! Mullions are special jumpers intended for dividing the sashes.
Then you need to make a markup for the anchors and make holes along it - two from the bottom / top and three on each side. This requires anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, aerated concrete), then the fastening is performed using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled in the day before installation. So the element will not freeze.
Stage 4. Dismantling work
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before the installation of a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out together with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawed.
Step 1. First, the sealant and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is peeled off.
Step 4. The adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. The polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.
Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to align the structure), only after that it is attached to the wall. The underlays can be left as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct position of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. Typically, traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window has risen evenly, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall (approximately 6-10 cm) is drilled with a perforator through the previously prepared holes in the structure. The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the flatness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will "skew".
Prices for polyurethane foams and nail gun cleaners
Polyurethane foam and nail gun cleaners
Stage 6. Drainage
Outside, an outflow is attached to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.
The edges of the low tide are recessed into the walls by a few centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.
Note! The bottom slot is also sealed before installation.
Step 7. Assembling the window
After fixing the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
Step 2. The leaves are opened, their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening / closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is installed level.
Step 3. The assembly seam is closed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will "lead". If done correctly, the foam will come out a few centimeters after drying.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.
Stage 8. Installation of the window sill
Step 1. The sill is trimmed so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while, until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Video - Installation instructions for plastic windows
conclusions
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get down to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already "set").
The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are also some nuances - such, for example, as installing a parapet to create a partition.
Find out how to do it right in our new article.
Previously, only wooden windows were installed in houses, but nowadays they produce not only wooden windows, but also.
And in the modern world, people often began to install plastic windows in their houses or apartments. So you, at some point, decided that wooden windows no longer keep heat so well, freeze through and look, say, not very attractive, and for this reason you decided to change wooden windows to plastic ones.
Installation of plastic windows is not easy, so it is best to entrust this work to specialists. But, if you are sure that you are able to carry out the installation of windows on your own or you have some experience in the installation of such windows, you can carry out the installation of windows yourself.
Here's how to properly install a plastic window, and we will tell you further.
The positive quality of installing plastic windows yourself is that you will do it more carefully than many specialized workers. Still, if you do not have the skills to install such windows and have never seen how they do it, then it is best to use the services of specialized workers.
What is the best time to install plastic windows?
Installation of plastic windows can be carried out in winter, but if the outside air temperature is not less than minus five degrees. Otherwise, you need to install a special heat shield.
Measurement of windows
Before purchasing a new plastic window, you need to make measurements of the window opening and, according to the data obtained, buy a finished window or place an order for the manufacture of a window. When you order a window according to your size, it will fit perfectly into the opening of your window.
The window should not be closely inserted into the opening, there should be a small gap between the window and the opening, as it needs to expand or contract, this will depend on temperature changes.
Clearance requirements
The minimum clearance dimensions should be as follows:
- Window up to 1m 20 cm, the indent should be 15 mm;
- Window up to 2 m 20 cm indentation is 20 mm;
- Window up to 3 m indention is 25mm.
When you replace a window, you must take into account that the window must enter the opening for the window, only by a certain number of centimeters. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall and in order to make the slopes.
All measurements were made, all the nuances were taken into account, and as a result, the required size of the window profile was obtained. Now you can go to the company and order a window or take a ready-made one that suits your parameters.
Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening
After you have already bought a window and the weather allows its installation, then you can do its installation. It must be borne in mind that all work will be rather dusty, so it is better to remove all things or cover with a film.
After you have done all the preparatory work, start dismantling the old window, and in order to remove the old window, use a chisel, pry bar and hammer.
Before installing a plastic window, it is necessary to remove dirt from the window opening well and moisten it a little.
Then you can start preparing the window for installation.
Installation of a plastic window
Before installing the window profile, the sashes are removed from the window and the double-glazed windows are removed from the blind parts of the window. Then you need to peel off the protective tapes outside the profile and install the protective caps in the drain holes. We attach fasteners for the mosquito net to the self-tapping screws.
Insulation of a profile
If you decide to make an anchor as fasteners, then the profile is drilled through and therefore the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening windows to anchors requires more labor and skill, and for this reason such fastening is not suitable for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can be led, and if it does, the window will be damaged.
But the anchorage also has positive qualities, for example, the design will be strong. But the negative quality of the mounting plates is that they do not provide good structural strength. But mounting plates are the easiest type of fixing plastic windows. Very often, experts use both types of mounts.
- Usually we start fasteners from the corner and make the first fasteners at a distance of 120-150 mm and then make the next fasteners with a distance of 700 mm. Three fasteners are installed on each side.
- Before installing the profile in the opening, it is necessary to check all the planes using a level, then using wooden blocks it is necessary to raise the profile and adjust it vertically.
- It is necessary to start vertically from the top of the window opening and raise the profile from the bottom using the materials described above. The next step is to horizontally align the profile. The fastening of the profile in the opening from the side and from the top is made of wood blades. After you have done the alignment on all sides, you need to make a profile and if everything is in order, then you can fix it.
- If you fix the window profile on the mounting plates, then they are first fixed on one dowel with a nail. The next step is to check the window profile using a level and only after that the mounting plate is fixed with a second dowel with a nail.
- In the event that the windows are attached to the anchor, then through the holes that were previously made and then using a special tool, make holes in the wall and screw in the anchor without tightening them.
- The anchors are not tightened in order to check the level of the window installation, and only then can the anchors be tightened, but very slowly so as not to disturb the balance of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we remove the blades from the wood from the sides and from the top, and the lower blades remain, because they are the basis of the window profile.
How to install ebb windows on plastic windows?
The next step in the work is the installation of the ebb.
We measure it and use metal scissors to cut out the desired size, then a special tape is glued to the bottom of the frame, it is needed to protect the seam between the wall and the lower part of the window.
After the tape is glued, a layer is applied to it. Also, a layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the edge of the slab, this is necessary in order to ensure and seal the ebb. The ebb must go into the grooves of the profile and is attached with self-tapping screws.
Seam sealing
Then we close the seam with polyurethane foam, between the wall and the window (first from one side, then from the other and from above). After the foam has dried, another insulation tape is glued on top of it. From the inside of the window, it is necessary to remove the protective tape and use special linings when installing the glass unit.
Using the strips, hold the glass unit, hammer the strips into the grooves and install the sash, fix it in the awnings, then fix the handle and adjust the sash horizontally and vertically. After all the work, a mosquito net is installed.
How to properly install a window sill on plastic windows?
After all the work, we begin the installation of the window sill.
- First, we fill the lower assembly seam well with foam, and tape is glued on top of it.
- Then they install pads made of wood, on which the window sill will be attached.
- Wooden blocks must be at least ten centimeters long. Also, the window sill should be tilted five degrees towards the room, and the window sill should not obscure the battery.
- It is necessary to check whether the window sill is securely attached and you need to solder it from below and, best of all, with foam.
In this article, we told you how to make the installation of a plastic window and we hope that this information was useful to you. Good luck and patience!
Installing plastic windows is not a very time consuming job. Therefore, each person can independently start the installation of plastic windows. But who nevertheless decided to occupy himself with installing windows with his own hands, then he is faced with the problems of choosing fasteners. Indeed, there are many types of fasteners on the product market. And every novice builder asks a question.
What fasteners are best for window installation? In order to answer this question unambiguously, let's understand this issue thoroughly. And we will consider the types of fasteners for plastic windows, as well as installation rules and characteristics.
Types of fasteners for the window
- Anchor dowel
- Anchor plates
- Nog
Now let's pay attention to their features.
Anchor dowel
This type of fastening for plastic windows is very reliable. The principle of operation is designed so that when the screw is tightened, the sleeve expands the walls of the sleeve and the element is securely fixed.
The size. There are a huge number of dowel sizes from 100 to 200 mm, and their thickness is from 7-12 mm. To calculate your dowel length, you need to measure the thickness of the window and opening from the frame and slope.
Usually the thickness of the frame varies about 4-6 cm, and the dowel should enter the wall at a distance of 4 cm.If you have a distance from the wall to the window of about 3-4 cm, then you need a dowel 110 mm, if 8-10, then 160- 190 mm.
Disadvantages. The disadvantage of which fastening is that by installing the dowel it is no longer possible to dismantle it. Therefore, you need to be very serious about the alignment of the window, because correcting your mistakes will cost you a lot and take a lot of time.
Also, if you hit the reinforcement with a drill, then you can break the drill and you will have to drill a new hole.
Important. Before installing a plastic window in an apartment block building, you need to find out its type and structure of the wall. Because, in many panel houses, builders lay insulation inside the walls. Therefore, during installation, you can get into the insulation and the dowel may fall out. Also, do not mount the dowel in soft building materials.
The depth of drilling inward for the dowel depends on the material from which the wall is made. In a concrete wall, the depth is 4 cm, and in a brick wall 7-8 cm.
Nog
A dowel is a simple screw that is screwed into the wall to secure the window. This type of fastener is also very reliable. Unlike a dowel, the dowel can be easily unscrewed in any case.
Dimensions. There are a huge number of sizes of dowels from 100 to 250 mm, and the thickness is from 5-12 mm. To calculate the length of the dowel, you need to measure the width of the window and opening from the frame and slope. If your distance from the wall to the window is about 3-4 cm, then you need a 110 mm dowel, if 8-10, then 170-200 mm.
Disadvantages. Before installing a plastic window in an apartment block building, you need to find out its type and structure of the wall. Because, in many panel houses, builders lay insulation inside the walls. Therefore, during installation, you can get into the insulation and the dowel can fall out.
Also, do not mount the dowel in soft building materials.
Important. The depth of drilling inward under the dowel depends on the material from which the wall is made. In a concrete wall, the depth is 6 cm, and in a brick wall 7-8 cm.
Anchor plates
This type of window fastening is suitable for panel houses in which there is insulation and the use of an anchor and a dowel is impossible. It is also perfect for wooden houses and baths, where it is not possible to fix windows in the wall. Filling the free space with polyurethane foam, such a design will be very reliable and warm.
Dimensions. The length of this fastening element varies from 150-200 cm. One edge of the plate is fixed with a self-tapping screw to the frame from the outside, and the other is attached to any supporting structure with two self-tapping screws. The length of the second part should be around 10 cm.
Disadvantages. This type of fastening is not the most reliable.
Important. This method of fastening is the most common, because it is the simplest one. It is mainly used by novice builders. Anchor plates should be 15-20 cm from the corners of the window opening and 60 cm from each other.
What type of fastening of plastic windows is the best, I cannot say. Each type has its own disadvantages and advantages. You must choose the type of fastening yourself, depending on the technical features of your home.
Photo of fasteners for plastic windows
For reading 8 min.
Fixation of plastic windows in the opening is carried out using fasteners and polyurethane foam. It is not difficult to pick up the foam, and in this matter you can follow personal experience or the recommendations of the seller. As for the fasteners, everything is not so simple here. The assortment of fasteners is impressive in variety, in which it is easy to get lost for an unprepared consumer. How to choose fasteners and use it to install a window will be discussed in this article.
Choice of fasteners for windows
Fasteners used in the installation of PVC structures must meet the following requirements:
- Ensuring rigid fixation of the plastic window in the opening, taking into account wind and shock loads. Consideration of wind impact is especially important when installing blocks on the upper floors of buildings. Structural shock loads are most significant in large-size opening systems.
- Compensation of temperature loads arising from seasonal changes. For example, in winter, the profile bends into the room (1-2 mm per linear meter), therefore, the fastening must allow the structure to be displaced by this amount.
Important! In accordance with GOST (30971-02), one cannot rely on polyurethane foam as a fastener (its function is exclusively sealing). Horizontal loads on the fastening are also unacceptable - the block is fixed in the opening with cushioning materials (wedges). In fact, the fasteners must hold the structure perpendicular to its plane (prevent the window from falling out).
Fixing scheme for PVC windows in accordance with GOST What determines the choice of fasteners?
When choosing a mount, first of all, they look at what the opening is made of, in which it is planned to install a plastic window. Openings are made of brick, concrete, decorative stone, wood, metal, cinder block, shell rock or light porous materials (foam concrete, aerated concrete, and others).
The second important factor is the type of structure and the technical features of the installation. Balconies, loggias, entrance doors, hallways and windows are mounted from PVC profiles.
Fasteners for PVC structures
Plastic structures are installed using anchors, self-tapping screws (in some cases with dowels) or anchor plates.
Anchors
This type of fastening is available in two versions: a classic anchor and an anchor for hollow materials.
The length of the dowels varies from 70 mm to 202 mm. The size suitable for installation is selected based on the thickness of the window profile (60 mm), the installation gap between the frame and the opening (standard 2 cm), and the material from which the opening is made. In brick or concrete, 5-6 cm is enough, therefore, in a normal situation, you will need a 152mm anchor.
How to fix plastic windows?
The choice of fasteners largely depends on the material from which the opening is made. What kind of fastening is most preferable for common types of buildings, we will consider further.
In a wooden or frame house
The best fasteners for plastic windows in wooden structures are anchor plates. The first and most important reason for this is the deformation processes that wood is subject to, depending on changes in ambient temperature and humidity. This is especially true for log cabins, even if the house was allowed to stand.
In the case of fixing the block with self-tapping screws through the frame, there is a high probability of vertical shrinkage of the opening, which will cause the squeezing out of the fasteners twisted into the lower and upper profiles. And it's good if these are opening sections, since the beginning of the extrusion will be visually noticeable. In blind blocks, the problem will be revealed only when the fasteners enter.
Installation in frame structures should also be carried out on plates. In some cases, the sidewalls of the structure are fastened with self-tapping screws through the profile.
Video instruction:
Into concrete
High-quality concrete (lintels of window and door openings), drilling under the anchor with a ten-millimeter drill is not an easy task. For such situations, it is better to use plates, the fixation of which can be performed using self-tapping screws for a 6mm dowel.
When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many are wondering how difficult it is to install them on their own. The answer is medium difficulty work. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises with his own hands cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust them with the installation. If not, you better spend the weekend and install it yourself.
Construction of plastic windows
In order to properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe construction of windows. Let's start with materials and titles. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.
The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made of a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.
In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.
There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. The premium has a high price tag due to options that, in fact, are not needed.
If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the class standard of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have been standardized for a long time.
Window profiles are white as standard, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.
Window structure
In order to understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.
It consists of:
- Frames. This is the base of the window.
- If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is of two parts, there is one impost, If of three - two, etc.
- The opening part of the window is called a sash, the fixed part is called a capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, which ensures tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to the manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
- Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
- Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and closing. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro ventilation.
- To ensure tightness on all parts - frame, impost and sashes - rubber seals are installed.
At the bottom on the outside of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are covered with special caps. Through them, condensation is discharged into the street, which forms inside due to the temperature difference between the street and the room.
The window also has an ebb - a board outside that removes precipitation and a window sill inside. Side and top parts from the street and premises. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.
How to measure a plastic window
When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and the slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.
Examine the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest place: openings rarely have ideal geometry, therefore, you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transfer the height as it is.
If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for the polyurethane foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will be spent on installing the window sill.
The length of the window sill and low tide is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill "sink" a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The ebb tides are standard in width, so the closest larger one is chosen. On the windowsills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Someone likes wide ones - so that you can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules.
When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not the capercaillie is, where it is located, how many doors, which side they are, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).
Preparation
If you change windows, installing plastic windows with your own hands begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking, not building. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally - sweep everything, even dust, otherwise, during installation, the foam does not “grab” the wall.
If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. With a loose material of the walls, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.
How to Install: Choosing an Installation Method
There are two different techniques: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through them an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the fastening is more reliable.
This is an anchor bolt installation. They are placed three pieces on each side.
When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will skew or it will sag.
If you really do not want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use thick and wide rather than narrow and thin ones, which are still often used when installing a rafter system.
In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is in a high-rise building on a high floor - in these cases, an installation with unpacking is necessary.
Below you can see an emotional and easy-to-understand video, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions
Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is low and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a "layered" technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should stand exactly in a soft layer, then it will need to be fastened with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. house is desirable for an anchor.
Installation with unpacking
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Then you can get to work. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:
- Remove the sash of the window:
- Close the window (handle is turned down).
- Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
- There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is centered and protrudes slightly. Press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly tap on the plate). The pin will slide out from below. It can now be grasped with side cutters or pliers and pulled downwards to remove.
- Holding the sash at the top, you open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. By tilting the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
The entire sash is removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
- On capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is supported by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without problems. They remove the glazing beads like this:
- Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the glazing bead and the frame. If no special tool is available, it is best to use a small putty knife. Disassembly begins on one of the long sides.
- The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually pushed the glazing bead away from the frame.
- Without taking out the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead aside.
- So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply taken out.
- With the short side, everything is simpler: the released edge is pushed on and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.
Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If it does not work, remove another of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is inclined and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the glass unit yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
- Remove the sash of the window:
- The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window is not so cold.
- Remove the campaign logo protective tape. If left, it will melt too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
- The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. This is where you can use the mounting plates.
- Take a drill and drill, which is the same size as the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
- Having made a hole, check if the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot drag: the profile should not bend. This operation is repeated as many times as necessary.
- Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued to the outer part of the frame. Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the ebb tides are then brought in.
- A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the frame ledge and there is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- On the lower edge, the ebb is also foaming.
- Next, the opening is foamed. When installing plastic windows in summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better foam polymerization.
- A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
- Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the size of the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between the two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprayed with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.
Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap
- Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar do not "stick" to it.
- Collect all the pieces of the window. Only finishing work remains, and they are not a hindrance to them.
- A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the windowsill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard grades of impregnated wood. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).
Watch the video on how to properly position the window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.
Slopes are installed or sealed last. On this occasion, another video.
Installation without unpacking
The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation of this option begins with the installation of the mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.
They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.
Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is level in the opening. Only they do not attach the frame, but the plates and not to the anchor, but to the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.
Now it is clear why installers prefer them: a decent chunk of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc., goes away: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tight. No worse than an anchor. For example, such as in the video.