Nowadays, a bathroom is rarely without such a useful attribute as a heated towel rail. Indeed, in addition to drying towels and various linen, the heated towel rail creates a favorable microclimate in the room, which avoids the formation of dampness, the appearance of an unpleasant odor and fungus. Modern heated towel rails have a stylish look, spectacular design. To ensure normal humidity and a comfortable temperature, they must function all year round. You can install a heated towel rail with your own hands, or by attracting plumbing specialists. Whichever option of these two you choose, you should read this article: here the installation and connection of a heated towel rail is described in detail, a step-by-step installation technology is described and a general understanding of the installation process is given.

Choosing the right connection method

Currently, the market offers three types of heated towel rails: water, electric and combined. The most common type is water heated towel rails. We will stop at them.

There are two options for connecting water heated towel rails:

• to the heating system;
• to the hot water supply.

Most often, they choose the 2nd option, because in this case round-the-clock and year-round heating is guaranteed. Connection to the heating system is undesirable, since hot water is available in it only during the heating season. In addition, the question arises: how to replace a heated towel rail in the bathroom in winter, because no one will allow you to make an insert into the heating pipes - you can freeze the entire riser.

Installation of a heated towel rail with side connection is a little more complicated, but it looks very aesthetically pleasing

Before you install a heated towel rail in the bathroom, you need to choose a way to connect it. When replacing an old Soviet-style heated towel rail, you will need to select a new model of the same diameter, designed for the bottom connection. If during the repair in the bathroom the pipes were "recessed" into the wall, and only the exits remained outside, then in this case it is possible to install a water heated towel rail with a side connection. Its installation is more complicated, but such a model will look incomparably better.

Important! Installing a heated towel rail of this type requires careful isolation of the connections, since eliminating leaks in a heated towel rail, the pipes of which are hidden in the wall, is very laborious work.

Work technology - step by step

Replacing a heated towel rail implies the following sequence of work:

• dismantling of an outdated heated towel rail;
• installation of a bypass (bulkhead) and ball valves;
• installation of a heated towel rail.

Let's take a closer look at the steps listed above.

Dismantling an old heated towel rail

Replacing a heated towel rail in the bathroom begins with removing the old one:

The first stage in the installation of a heated towel rail is dismantling the old version that you want to replace

• We turn off the hot water by shutting off the corresponding valve. This issue needs to be coordinated with the housing office.
• When there is no more water in the riser, we remove the old heated towel rail.If it does not form a single whole with the hot water supply pipe, we unscrew the threaded connection and dismantle it.
• If the heated towel rail is simply welded to the pipe, it should be cut with a grinder. Cutting is carried out in such a way that the length of the pipe is sufficient for threading
• We remove the used heated towel rail from the brackets.

Installation of bypass (bulkhead) and ball valves

A bulkhead (bypass) is a piece of pipe equipped with connecting elements. She is a wand - a lifesaver in unforeseen situations. To install a bypass, ball valves are placed on the ends of the heated towel rail, which, if necessary, will stop the flow of water through it. At the same time, when the jumper is installed in the riser, water circulation does not stop even when the heated towel rail is turned off.

This allows you not to cut off the water for the whole house in the event of renovation work.

Threading on a pipe using threading - more information about the technology of work can be found

The bypass is equipped with three valves: two of them are installed at the junction of the heated towel rail pipe with the bypass, and the third stops the water in the bypass itself

Installing, securing and connecting the coil

We continue to install the heated towel rail with our own hands. The next step is to attach the brackets and fix the heated towel rail to the wall.

When attaching a heated towel rail to the wall, you will need to drill holes in the tile, which requires a certain amount of care

We fasten the brackets to the heated towel rail, which, as a rule, are included in the kit (if they are not there, you need to buy it separately). Putting it to the place of placement, we make marks with a pencil for the holes. An assistant is needed to level the fixture using a building level.

In a wall covered with tiles, holes are made using a drill with a special drill for tiles. We insert plastic dowels into the holes, then attach the heated towel rail to the wall and fasten it to it with screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver.

The distance from the wall to the axis of the heated towel rail is regulated and depends on the diameter of the pipe

It's important to know! The distance from the wall cladding to the axis of the heated towel rail pipe is regulated and is:

• 35 mm for pipes with a diameter of up to 23 mm;
• 50-55 mm for pipes up to 50 mm in diameter.

Next, it remains to connect the heated towel rail to the riser. To do this, we attach it to the valves on the lintel using fittings (straight or angled, depending on the type of heated towel rail connection).

Tighten the fasteners carefully so as not to spoil the threads. We make a seal of all threaded connections using linen winding.

When making the connection, you may have to purchase special fittings to connect the heated towel rail to the water pipe

Note! Water must pass through the heated towel rail from top to bottom, therefore, the supply riser should be connected to the upper socket of the heated towel rail.

After completing the above work, you need to check the tightness of the joints: when probing the seams, there should be no drops or leaks. It remains to smoothly open the taps so that the device is filled with water gradually and no water hammer occurs.

That's all. Now you can safely say that you have got an idea of ​​how to connect a heated towel rail. Decide whether you can do this work with high quality on your own, or it is better to invite a specialist.

The bathroom will become much more convenient if you equip it with such a functional device as a heated towel rail.

Its installation allows you to solve several significant problems at once.:
- drying towels and small items;
- maintaining optimal temperature conditions;
- preventing the formation of dampness.

Installing a water heated towel rail

First, you need to assemble it - install shut-off taps with a detachable connection on the liner, which in the future will provide an easy replacement of the heated towel rail or the elimination of some defects without draining the riser. The assembled dryer can be attached to the wall anywhere by leading pipes from the riser to it.

Important. When installing a heated towel rail, you must act strictly in accordance with the instructions attached to it.

Connection procedure:

Features of installing a combined heated towel rail

Since water dryers work, as a rule, only during the heated period, many residents of high-rise buildings solve this problem by installing a universal heated towel rail, which can work both from the heating system or hot water supply, and from electricity... To do this, you need a drying ladder, in the lower left liner of which an electric heater with a thermostat is mounted. The very installation of a heated towel rail is performed in the way described above.

Thus, the following scheme of work is obtained. When the shut-off taps are closed and the device is filled with water through the upper left connection (where the Mayevsky tap is installed), the heated towel rail can be heated from electricity. When you disconnect it from the outlet and open the shut-off valves, heating will be provided with hot water from the central system.

Important. Connecting an electric heated towel rail requires certain wiring requirements.

The power consumption of such devices is quite high (1 kW or more), which requires a separate outlet, which is connected with a cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 squares and powered directly from the electrical panel. This line of wiring must be protected with a separate "automatic".

It is necessary to provide a place for a socket with a grounding for a heated towel rail

A very important point is grounding. Manufacturers took care of connecting ready-made heated towel rails to protective grounding and self-made (with the "ladder" equipment with a heating element with a thermostat). Therefore, it is enough just to install a special socket with grounding by laying a three-core wire. If there is no grounding in the apartment, then you can perform "zeroing" when the ground wire and zero in the wiring are bridged. This re-grounding must be done as close to the electrical panel as possible.

This is how the installation and connection of a heated towel rail is performed. Before starting work, you need to decide whether you will master such work on your own or not. Even if you decide not to do it yourself, at least you will understand the installation sequence, which will help you control the quality of the work of the hired specialists.

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Installing a heated towel rail: the necessary equipment and materials

Today, the problem of private construction remains very urgent. A special place in this section is occupied by the arrangement of a bathroom in an apartment or a comfortable house. An important detail is the installation and connection of a heated towel rail. You can correctly make all the sanitary facilities in the bathroom either on your own or with the help of plumbers. Heated towel rails are an important part of any bathroom, since the bathroom does not provide for the installation of radiators for heating. A water heated towel rail is the same radiator, only its functions are slightly different.

A water heated towel rail serves not only to dry towels and other linen, but also is part of the heating system. Having a high temperature, it contributes to partial heating of the bathroom, maintaining optimal microclimate parameters in this room. It has a hygienic function. Let's take a closer look at how to properly room, the main types of these devices.

The main types of heated towel rails

Before you do, you need to familiarize yourself with its types. So, a heated towel rail for a bathroom can be of two types: electric and water. You can install any of them. The water one differs in that it is connected to a hot water supply or heating system. The first option is the most optimal. This heated towel rail is part of the hot water supply system. Installing it is not easy. It is important to take into account the quality of the material and the wall thickness. To avoid leaks, you need to carefully select the threads and properly process the ends. Installation of such a heated towel rail is good in that it does not require grounding, waste of electricity, which will save money.

You can also install an electric heated towel rail. Outwardly, these two species are very similar. They can be installed in any place, regardless of the location of the pipelines. In addition, in this case, interruptions in work are excluded, regardless of the heating season. There is also no need for additional equipment in the form of adapters and pipes. But the installation of such a heated towel rail is more expensive.

Back to the table of contents

How to properly install a heated towel rail in the bathroom

To in the bathroom, you need to connect 2 pipes to it: one for supplying hot water, and the second for draining it.

Installation is carried out by inserting a heated towel rail (if it is water) into the heating or hot water supply system.

The second option is preferable, because the water runs around the clock, and the heating is often turned off. It is quite difficult to connect to the heating system, since during the cold period you will have to turn off the entire system for a while. The installation of such equipment includes the dismantling of the old and the subsequent installation of a bulkhead, cranes. It is very important to correctly adjust the center-to-center space for a new heated towel rail.

In order to install the device in the bathroom correctly, you need to remove the old equipment, solder (weld) the pipes, install 2 taps and a jumper. The work is difficult, therefore it is recommended to use the services of specialists. To properly install a towel dryer in the bathroom, you need to choose the material, in particular the pipes. You can use metal-plastic pipes, while it must be borne in mind that they are sensitive to pressure drops in the system. This option is the most economical. The inner diameter of the pipes in the joints is smaller than usual. The most reliable are copper pipes. They are durable and well adapted to pressure changes. In addition, they are connected to each other by soldering, which ensures their tightness. The heated towel rail can be supplied using polypropylene pipes.

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Jumper installation

The rules for installing a heated towel rail provide for the installation of a bypass (jumper). What is it for? Bypass will simplify the work of repairing your own equipment. When installing a jumper for a heated towel rail, it is important to know that it is not required. Water dryers are connected to the main riser (vertical pipe of the house) using joints that use rubber or paronite gaskets. They are short-lived and will need to be replaced soon. In this case, it will be necessary to temporarily shut off (turn off) the water in the entire riser. For such a service you need to pay money to the local utilities.

Bypass installation assumes. With such a mechanism, it is possible to block the access of water to the towel drying device, but at the same time the water in the riser will move along the lintel without disrupting the operation of the entire network. In this case, you can carry out equipment repairs without any fear. It must be remembered that it is recommended to use fluoroplastic gaskets in detachable joints. When installing the bypass, special valves are installed on the ends of the pipes, and the pipeline in front of them is connected with a jumper. The bypass is a piece of pipe with fittings. The installation of jumpers involves the use of metal, polypropylene pipes.

There is a heated towel rail in every bathroom.

Installing a heated towel rail is not a difficult task that every man who has no experience in this matter can handle.

We will tell you how you can do it yourself.

You don't have to ask the plumbers for help if you read this article.

Preparatory stage

What needs to be done first of all is to decide on the design.

It should be not only convenient, but also beautiful, as well as choose a mounting method and select the optimal size hollow products for the battery.

It is required for:

• drying small personal items,
• reducing the percentage of moisture,
• reducing dampness in the room,
• creating a certain microclimate.

At the moment, among the inhabitants, models of heated towel rails in the shape of the letters "P" and "M" are in special demand.

But, despite such preferences our compatriots, on the market in a wide range, there are samples in the form of a "ladder" and corner specimens.

It is no secret to anyone that each product has its own characteristic features, mounting options and cost.

When choosing the product you need, you need to take into account a large number of different factors.

Model not always liked can be ideal for installation in your bathroom (read about partitions for a premium bathroom in the article).

The most important point- these are the dimensions of the room and, of course, the diameter of the pipes.

For a small bath, it is best to buy M-shaped and U-shaped dryers.

In large and spacious rooms telescopic, rotating samples and "ladders" will look more advantageous.

Products can be either quite impressive in size or very small. Especially, I would like to note the corner structures.

Despite their compact size, they look very impressive. In addition, the functions assigned to them, these devices perform excellently.

We will not talk for a long time about the beauty and attractiveness of the appearance of various heated towel rails, but we will pay more attention to the fasteners with which they are installed.

Fittings (written about high pressure crimping) play an important role in creating the aesthetic appearance of the entire structure.

Especially, nicely, the pipes hidden in the wall look, while all the fasteners (including the fittings) are also hidden.

However, this type of installation is considered difficult and is rarely used. Most often, heated towel rails are attached to external pipes. In this situation, the fasteners are open.

What fasteners are needed

If you decide to replace the towel drying device in the bathroom, you must take a responsible attitude not only to the choice of the material from which the product is made, but also to the fastening elements.

Since the beauty and functionality of the structure, and the general practicality of the entire drying system as a whole, will largely depend on this.

Perhaps those who first encountered the assembly of the device do not quite understand what fittings are.

Information for uninformed inhabitants:

• fittings are small parts (usually chrome-plated) that are very difficult to dispense with during assembly.

The choice of fasteners must exactly match the design you like and the material from which the heater is made.

The best option is when the entire device is made of the same material.

Types of fittings

• Sectional extension cord.
  A representative of this category will help you, if necessary, adjust the distance from the heater to the wall to which it will be attached.

  These fittings act as a kind of bracket, which requires at least several fasteners to connect.

  The elongated collapsible fittings dock only in front of the pipe bends.

  This modification of the connectors has one minor flaw - they have too long threads.

  However, this problem can be quickly fixed.(Threaded fittings for copper pipes are described in the article).
  How?

  Excessive grooves can be quickly and easily removed (cut off or sharpened).

• Reel from polymer materials.
  This type of fittings excludes the possibility of backlash on the adjusting joints.

  If done correctly, it will take on the look you want.

  It is also worth taking into account the following fact: the aforementioned part will not seal over time.

• Corner faucet.
  It is used to connect a tubular radiator directly to a central heating pipe.

  Depending on the size of the hollow core products used, you can use either standard modifications of the corners or choose the option that you find more convenient.

  With corner fittings, you can change the direction of the pipes at will.

• Tee.
  This simple connecting element will be very useful to you if you need to make a number of branches from the central highway in different directions.

  Through such a fitting, you can directly connect the heater and the riser.
  
  In this case, do not forget to install a bypass.

  The bypass line will allow you to turn off the heated towel rail for a while, while there will be no obstacles for the operation of other heating devices.

• Cross fittings.

  With their help, the system is branched only along two different courses.

• Fitting "American".
  If you need to dismantle the structure, this can be done using a kind of crane, which is called - "American".

  It is very difficult to overestimate the usability of this fastener - you will not need to turn off the system completely.

  It is enough just to close this device, unscrew the nut and remove the heater.

• Connections in this case are of several types:
  • nut - union,
  • nut - nut,
  • fitting - fitting.
• Clamping device clamping.
  Implements similar functions as the "American".

  Thanks to this coupling, you can quickly disassemble and assemble any connection.
  This part has one feature - it has different diameters on different sides.

  This property is used when there is a need to join pipes of different sizes. The thread at the clamping ferrule can be either external or internal.

• Reflectors.
  These fittings prevent moisture from seeping to the mount (read how to fix a leak in a pipe with water).
• Limiters.
  With their help, pipes are sealed.

When buying chrome plated fasteners for tubular radiators, you need to pay special attention to the quality of the threads.

The high quality of the product can be judged by the uniformity of the application of the grooves.

Another feature of non-chrome-plated compounds is that they quickly undergo a rusting process.

Your most correct decision will be to purchase a heater with fittings.

Thus, you will save yourself the trouble of searching for the necessary or exchanging already existing, but unsuitable in size parts.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Since the heated towel rail is mounted directly into the water supply system, it is very important to ensure that the device functions correctly.

If mistakes are made in the work, then not only the drying itself, but also the water supply system may suffer.

In general, the installation process is not difficult. And it consists in the following: we supply water to one side of the device, and from the other end we ensure its outflow.

Everything, this is the end of the work... Are you wondering how much it will all cost?
It makes no sense to talk about specific numbers.

Much depends on the complexity of the work performed, the type of coil selected, etc.

Pay attention to the maximum distances between the wall and the heater, which must be observed:

• 5-7 centimeters - if the pipe diameter is more than 2.5 centimeters
• 3.5-4 centimeters - with a pipe section of less than 2.5 centimeters.

In order not to subject the walls to heavy loads that can be triggered by hot thermal deformation, the structure must not be rigidly fixed.

The coil is hung on the mounting brackets.

After completing all work, you need to check all connections for leaks. If you find a leak, it must be repaired immediately.

Basic moments

• Only components made of the same metal may be used in the system.

  Otherwise electrolytic corrosion will inevitably occur.

  To prevent this from happening, only Teflon gaskets are used to seal the joints.

• If you want a heated towel rail to work all year round, it must be connected to a hot water system.
• When connecting a ladder model, it is better to use the side connection method.
  In this case, it is necessary to observe the center distance - 50 cm.
• Would you like to connect a heating device to the heating system?
  A combined model is suitable for these purposes.

Worth knowing! The device must be connected to the riser by means of "American women".

An important point! During installation work, all docking points must be carefully insulated. If you decide to "drown" the pipe into the wall, then it will be incredibly difficult to eliminate the leaks later.

How to do the installation of a heated towel rail in a new building with your own hands, see the video.

A heated towel rail is an indispensable item in any bathroom, because helps to eliminate excess dampness, maintain hygiene and, of course, dry personal belongings and towels.

In the case of replacing the old plumbing with a new one and the need for finishing work in the bathroom, it makes sense to think about replacing the old heated towel rail with a new, more aesthetic one. Current manufacturers offer a wide variety of designs and designs for these devices. They have increased durability and reliability combined with a graceful appearance.

Before purchasing a new bathroom coil, pay close attention to the material it is made from and the design features.

Main types

Depending on the principle of operation, the following types of dryers are distinguished:

• Working on the water. They can be connected to the heating or hot water supply system. Advantageous in that they allow you to minimize utility bills;
• Mains powered. Independent of heating and hot water supply and durable (no corrosion). They are easily installed in a place convenient for you, the main thing is that there is a power source nearby.
• Combined. They are a combination of the previous 2 types: during the heating season, hot water circulates along the circuit, and during periods without heating, it is possible to turn on TEN to heat the water.

By type of construction, devices are divided into:

• Horizontal. They have the form of a coil we are accustomed to;
• Vertical. Made in the form of a ladder with lintels.

Towel warmers are cast from black and stainless steel, as well as brass and copper. The latter, despite their high cost, have the longest service life. The material should be selected based on the specific situation.

So in the case of connecting to a central heating system, heated towel rails made of seamless steel are more suitable. Their design is designed for pressures up to 8 bar and is not afraid of water hammer. In AGV systems, the pressure does not actually exceed 3 bar, therefore, chrome-plated brass dryers with various shapes and designs will be the best choice.

It is worth noting the models with a distance from the facing surface to the dryer that can be adjusted during installation. By setting a greater distance, you will ensure good air circulation and faster drying.

Most modern models are equipped with a Mayevsky crane, which allows airing the radiator circuit. Even in new designs, a bypass jumper is provided to equalize the pressure in the circuit. By installing an additional ball valve on the lintel, you can adjust the operating temperature of the heated towel rail. It still does not hurt to install valves on the inlet and outlet of the coil for quick isolation from the main pipeline in case of dismantling or repair.

Do not forget to pay attention to the installation dimension between the water inlet and outlet holes. Especially when you plan to put a new radiator in place of the old one. Depending on the distance between the centers of the liners, there are models with distances of 30, 35, 45, 50, 60, 80 cm.

Installation and connection to a heating system or hot water supply

Installing a heated towel rail is not very simple and requires certain knowledge and skills.

Installation rules and regulations

Requirements for connecting a heated towel rail to hot water supply systems are set out in SNiP 2-04-01-85.

The installation itself consists in connecting the inputs and outputs of the radiator circuit with the corresponding fittings of the heating riser or water main using plastic pipes. Pipes, couplings and bends are assembled together using a special sleeve.

To connect a new product, you can also use metal-plastic and copper pipes, but here it is worth considering a number of features. Half-inch metal-plastic pipes have a smaller cross-sectional diameter than plastic ones, and they do not withstand pressure drops well. Copper ones, despite their durability, will cost a substantial amount, and their welding requires special skills and precautions.

For correct operation of the heated towel rail, provide a slight slope of the supply pipe in the direction of the hot water flow. For the entire length of the liner, it is 5-10 mm. The water flow should go from the upper point of the device circuit to the lower one. For this, the upper socket of the radiator is connected to the hot water supply riser.

A gap must be maintained between the pipes of the circuit and the surface of the walls. It is a minimum of 35 mm for pipes up to 23 mm and 50 mm for pipes over 23 mm. These distances are regulated by a hairpin screwed into the bracket, but there are also fixed mounts in which this distance cannot be changed. The supporting structure should not be rigidly fixed in order to compensate for thermal expansion of the pipes and not to load the sections of the wall that support them.

Necessary materials

Before installation, check the completeness of your purchase, carefully read the design and connection diagram of the new device, study the instructions attached to it. Prepare in advance all the tools and materials necessary for work, these are:

• directly heated towel rail;
• brackets;
• PVC pipes of the required diameter (26, 32 mm);
• knife for cutting PVC pipes;
• screwdriver;
• impeller;
• fasteners;
• hammer, building level;
• 2 adjustable wrenches;
• tow or other sealant;
• 2 union nuts for soldering;
• soldering iron for PVC pipes;
• 2-3 ball valves,
• PVC knee,
• 1 PVC elbow with female thread,
• 2 tees (if installing a jumper),
• 1 female coupling.

When the cladding work in the bathroom is not completed, you can connect to the AGV using two water sockets. American women for connecting the radiator inlets and outlets can be purely metal, if metal threaded fittings have already been removed from the line.

First contact the company that serves your heating and water supply networks with a request to shut off the water supply during the dismantling work. And only after that, proceed to the very process of removing the old coil.

Even when removing the old radiator, you should pay attention to the wear of the riser to which it was attached. If its condition leaves much to be desired, it makes sense to replace it partially or completely. It will not be superfluous to ask the opinions of the neighbors from below and from above, if they suddenly support the idea of ​​changing the riser completely. In any case, even if you only carry out the replacement at home, you need to do this so that the old pipes do not remain overlapped and the joints with new sections are visible and accessible. Having outlined the places of the segments, cut off part of the riser together with the coil with a grinder.

At the cut ends of the pipes, threads have yet to be threaded and a threading machine is useful for this. In construction markets and stores, this tool is widely sold or rented. Remove the chamfers from the ends of the cut pipe with a turbine, install a scraper of the required caliber in the tool socket and, fastening it to the end of the pipe, gradually cut the thread.

Pipe welding

Among the pipes for connecting plumbing, steel, copper and polypropylene are most often used. The latter favorably differ in ease of installation, resistance to corrosion and a favorable price.

Plus, the process of soldering propylene pipes together is very simple and easy to learn. For independent work, you will need the following tools:

1. A set of bits of the correct caliber
2. Pipe cutter or wire cutters
3. Beveler
4. Shaver (for removing a layer of aluminum from pipes)

We recommend purchasing a swimsuit from a specialized store to be sure of the quality. Complete with the soldering iron itself, there are always nozzles of different sizes and an original stand on which it can be fixed. Reliable welding can only be performed with a high-quality device, so we do not recommend saving on it.

At the beginning of work, draw up a diagram for yourself, taking into account the size of the sections, the location of tees, taps and bends. It will be guided by it conveniently for assembly accuracy and material savings. Also, the scheme will minimize the number of adhesions by weight.

Use nippers or a pipe cutter to cut the sections of the required length and chamfer the ends with a chamfer. According to the standard, the chamfer has a slope of 15 degrees and a length of 2-3 mm. Remember to remove burrs and chips from the cut ends of the pipes for a more reliable weld.

To connect the end of pipes with couplings, heat the gland to 260 degrees and place the elements in the sockets of the corresponding nozzles. The sleeve is pushed onto the pin from one side, and the pipe is inserted into the sleeve from the other side. The heating time will be determined by the diameter of the element and the thickness of its walls. It is standardized by international standards and can be found in the corresponding tables. You can independently determine the readiness for soldering by scrolling the element on the heating surface: with sufficient heating, the pipe or coupling will turn smoothly and be removed from the nozzle without effort.

Connect the heated sleeve and pipe immediately after removing from the soldering iron. At the same time, try to expose them exactly in relation to each other and press in all the way, but you should not press on the force. It will be possible to change the position of the connected parts literally within 3-5 seconds after connecting before they finally grab.

Installation of bypass and valves

Although the bypass jumper is not an obligatory element, it can be very helpful in case of need for repair work on the installed heated towel rail. An elementary replacement of gaskets at the points where the coil is connected to the riser will require shutting off the water supply to it. And this means filing an application with the FSW and additional costs. By prudently including a jumper and shut-off valves in the wiring diagram, you can easily cut off the dryer circuit from the main line in case of repair or in order to save money.

When installing the lintel, you can use both steel and copper or polypropylene pipes. Since working with metal involves a complex welding procedure, it would be more rational to assemble a bypass from plastic pipes. To cut off and regulate the flow in the desired areas, we need 3 ball valves. Having installed one on the jumper itself, and two on the water supply and return fittings, we can shut off the water supply to the radiator, cut it off from the riser. By adjusting the position of the tap on the jumper, you can reduce or increase the water supply in the circuit, and thereby adjust the heating temperature.

Installation and connection works are carried out in several stages:

• We cut off the water supply.
• We remove the old coil. If it is connected to the riser by a thread, we unscrew it with adjustable wrenches. If the coil is welded to the riser, we cut it off together with the pipe using a turbine.
• We install ball valves and a bulkhead.
• We screw the Mayevsky valve into the bypass for the convenience of airing the system.
• Places for future fastenings are marked on the wall with a pencil. We set the marks horizontally using the level indicator.
• We drill holes according to the marks and drive dowels into them.

• Having set the heated towel rail so that the holes coincide, we fasten it with a screwdriver. Do not forget to maintain the required distance from the wall to the pipes and adjust it if there is a bracket with a hairpin.

• To connect to the water supply and return fittings, we use the fittings from the kit. They can be straight or angular. Do not forget to seal the threads with tow or other winding. Fum can be used to seal tapered threads. When mounting the device, be sure to set the minimum slope of the liner (5-10 mm). Tighten the flare nuts with a soft cloth under the wrench to prevent scratches. Put the gaskets into the end of the nut. It is necessary to tighten smoothly and without unnecessary efforts, if difficulties arise when turning the key, unscrew the connection and set the elements to be connected evenly. After tightening the nut to the end, squeeze slightly, but do not overdo it so as not to disrupt the thread.
• After completing the assembly, you can supply water to the radiator. Smoothly open the water supply to avoid water hammer. Open the valve on the bulkhead slightly to release air from the pipes. When water starts to drip from it, you can close it. Visually inspect and iron all welds and threaded joints by hand to check for leaks.

Installing an electric or combined heated towel rail

As in the considered version with a water dryer, the installation of electric and combined models begins after dismantling the old device. Connecting an electric heated towel rail will have to be done after removing the old device.

It is noteworthy that with the help of a competent approach, it is possible to equip a device initially operating from central heating with a heating cable. In this case, the cable with the thermostat will be led inside the pipe through the lower connection of the heated towel rail.

For the correct and safe operation of an electric dryer, several requirements must be adhered to. The power consumption of TEN will be at least 1 kW, and to connect it, you will have to remove a separate outlet. From it, in turn, a wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 squares is stretched to the switchboard itself. The TEN power line is necessarily equipped with an automatic fuse.

Choosing a device with an electric heater, you can not depend on the season and heating season. You can use this device quite sparingly, turning it on only when it is really required.

Earthing

The key point is the grounding of the heated towel rail. The place for fixing the ground wire is usually already provided by the manufacturer. It remains only to put a protective outlet and lay a three-core wire from it into the panel room. If grounding through the switchboard is not provided for some reason, it is possible to carry out "zeroing" - to make a jumper between zero and ground. Such grounding is carried out at a minimum distance from the switchboard.

As you can see, the installation and connection of electric and combined dryers will require certain skills and knowledge of working with wiring. Do something like this yourself or trust the experience of professionals - it's up to you. Soberly assess your strengths and do not take risks if you are not sure of a high-quality result.