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Installing a bathtub on bricks: a practical way or an anachronism?

As it may seem at first glance, installing a bathtub on bricks is not at all a relic of the total deficit of the past period. On the contrary, today this "old-fashioned" method is actively used when installing the most modern built-in type baths.

Steel baths

• Made of sheet metal by stamping, the steel tubs are very lightweight;
• Under the influence of hot water, the metal expands, and the bottom of the bath slightly bends (by 2-4 mm);
• Due to such temperature fluctuations, the edge of the bath moves away from the walls, destroying the laid tiles.

For reference: the included legs for the bath very often do not stand up to criticism. And if the manufacturer supplies his product with strong and stable supports, then he will certainly increase the cost of the entire set of plumbing fixtures.

Installation process

So, you purchased a bath and brought it home. It only remains to figure out how to install the bathtub on bricks, and for this you need very little:

• Purchase building materials;
• Prepare the base of the floor;
• Erect supports;
• Install a bath.

We agree with such a plan of action, only we will add a clause on careful measurements. Traditionally, it is believed that the height of the installed bath should not exceed 55-60 cm, respectively, the height of the bases should take these parameters into account.

Tip: Experienced craftsmen advise to apply markings on the floor, according to which it will be easy to control the process of erecting supports in the future. This can be done with a simple pencil or chalk.

Purchase of building materials

Since steel bathtubs belong to the budget class of plumbing, use simple and readily available materials to create supports:

• Red brick;
• Silicate brick;
• Foam block;
• Aerated concrete;
• Cinder block, etc.

In addition, you will need cement, sand and water, as well as tools:

• Capacity for mixing the solution;
• Trowel (trowel);
• Level;
• Roulette.

Tip: If you don't have a trowel, a spatula or even a piece of sturdy plastic can easily replace it.

Preparation of the base

You probably have ceramic tiles on your bathroom floor. Even if its condition does not cause concern, it must still be dismantled at the place where the supports are being erected.

Tip: But first, determine where exactly the supports will be installed - just measure on an inverted bath from the edge to the support line.

We start preparing the foundation. To do this, we arm ourselves with a hammer and a chisel and:

• we knock down several tiles;
• remove the old solution;
• we clean the place from dust and dirt.

Styling process

Let's start building a solid foundation:

• knead the solution, adding components at the rate of 3 parts of sand, 1 part of cement and water until a thick consistency is formed;
• apply the solution with a trowel to the prepared base;
• we install the first brick on the mortar;
• we tap it so that it is firmly attached to the solution;
• we lay the next brick in a row and repeat the process of fixing;
• we take a level in our hands, and while the solution is plastic, we level the horizontal position of the first row of bricks;
• we apply a new portion of the solution to the laid bricks;
• lay out the second row.

Tip: on average, red bricks are laid out in 3-4 rows, silicate bricks - in 2 rows, cinder blocks, foam blocks and aerated concrete - in 1.5 rows. Such a height of the rows with a bathroom mounted on them will be within a comfortable 55-60 cm.

Acrylic bathtubs

Most of the acrylic models are equipped with steel frames by the manufacturers. But constructively, their installation is rather difficult, because:

• The fastening points of the elements must be drilled;
• Some of them are connected by a bathroom only specially reinforced in places. Errors lead to cracking of acrylic;
• Assembling a bathtub with an angular or shaft-shaped hydromassage takes a lot of time and requires meticulousness and perseverance.

Moreover, all this does not guarantee the stability and solidity of the acrylic bathroom. Therefore, we can advise the construction of additional supports, the role of which will be in:

• Maintaining the bathroom wings (especially the corner ones);
• Formation of a decorative screen on the basis of the erected side wall, etc.

In other words, installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks — it is not a replacement for "native" legs, but only an addition to the supports to make the bathroom more stable.

Cast iron baths

If you do not take into account the luxury cast-iron bathtubs, the cost of which is measured in thousands of dollars, then a standard built-in cast iron bathtub is quite appropriate in a modern apartment. Moreover, she has only 4 legs, which are easy to screw on and adjust.

But the masters have serious reasons for this:

• The contact patch of the cast-iron leg is small (from 2 to 4 sq. Dm);
• The weight of modern products exceeds 100 kg, and with a volume of 250 liters, each leg accounts for 25% of the weight (almost 90 kg);
• To eliminate the deformation of the floor, the craftsmen propose to erect brick supports, similar to the installation of metal bathtubs.

Conclusions: We hope you can clarify the situation regarding the bricks in the bathroom. And you do not perceive them as an anachronism, but as one of the effective building technologies aimed at improving the stability of the bath.

Connoisseurs of high-class relaxation will never exchange a comfortable spacious bath with aromatic, medicinal fillers and hot water for the now fashionable shower cabin. Incomparable bliss can be experienced only in the font. You can completely relax, but only if it is stable. The method of installing the bath depends on the type of room (combined with a bathroom or autonomous) and its area, the size of the bath itself, the presence of other plumbing fixtures and household appliances, furniture, etc. in the room. Installation of the bath on bricks provides maximum stability. At the very beginning, we want to note that ergonomic requirements require maintaining a distance to the bath rim of about 0.9 m.

Placing the bathtub on legs does not guarantee its stability: the screw fastening looses over time, reducing the static. The most reliable location for a cast iron bowl is on solid brickwork. But simply placing the bowl on such a "pedestal" is not enough.

It is necessary to do the work efficiently, which means, slowly, step by step to make the installation so that there is no gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall where water gets in, and then, over time, mold forms. First, you need to understand that cast iron products are heavy in themselves, and if you take into account the average dimensions of the baths 80x160 with a height of 50 cm, then it is clear why the installation should be done, at least, together.

Cast iron bath must be installed on a brick lined base

Note: with the seeming archaism of such baths, they are actively used, because the indicator of the heat capacity of cast iron surpasses all other materials at times!

Brick base for a cast iron bath

In just a few steps, the bath will be installed on a solid base. For this you need:

• Measure the room and bath, think over its location in relation to other household appliances and plumbing equipment.
• Prepare bricks. They need just enough so that it is enough to lay out a scaffold 2-3 bricks high across the bathhouse. On average, 20 pieces. To get a notch (bed) along the edges, another half-brick is laid. Depending on the length of the product, the number of rows is calculated, taking into account that the optimal distance between them is 50 cm. In height, the bathtub on bricks from the sides to the floor should not be higher than 0.7 m, so that it is convenient to get into it. The height of the front scaffold is 17 cm, and from the other end it is performed 2 cm higher.
• The masonry is done on a sand-cement mortar: for one part of the cement there are 4 parts of sand mixed with water. The edges of the container are attached to the wall with tile adhesive. For greater reliability, the side surfaces of the bathtub adjacent to the wall, and the wall itself, are processed in the same way. This ensures, firstly, a strong connection "wall-tub", and secondly, the adhesive base creates a seal of the seams. Ideally, for good adhesion of the mortar to the bricks, the masonry should be allowed to stand for at least a day.
• A siphon with an overflow is mounted on a bath that has not yet been installed. To do this, turn the bowl on its side and equip the drain hole for the siphon with rubber seals to prevent water leakage. So that you do not have to "turn over" the container again soon, it is better to immediately take care of a high-quality reliable siphon. The sewer pipe with a drain must be located below the outlet of the siphon.
• A bathtub is installed horizontally on the prepared surface at a level laid on the bottom, without a slope. But the outer edge is literally half a centimeter higher than the inner one (so that there is no spillage of water over the edge on the floor).
• Correct installation of a cast-iron bath on bricks involves connecting the drain to the sewer hose in two ways: a strong and more reliable rigid connection: a plastic pipe and an elbow with an angle of 45 ° and 90 ° are used; flexible and movable compensating plastic corrugation is connected hermetically by means of a seal to the sewer inlet.
• It is necessary to provide free supply of pipes for hot and cold water supply, drainage systems. It is important to make sure the installation is correct right away. For this, the container is filled with water and the drain is opened. If the liquid does not leave immediately, with delays, then there is a skew.
• One more nuance. Before installing the bathtub, the distance from its rear end to the wall is calculated. If an excess of space is assumed, it must also be laid with bricks. Alternatively, a support box under the bowl, just below the rim.

The final "touch" - facing a brick base with ceramic tiles or installing a screen. It is imperative that a working hole is left for possible access to the siphon.

The brick bath should be at a height sufficient for a normal siphon device

Brick rim for steel bathtub

The technology for installing different baths is generally the same. The undoubted advantage of steel sanitary tanks - their low weight (about 30 kg) - is one of the reasons for instability.

A steel bathtub can be installed on metal profiles and then the structure is complemented by brickwork

Installation work is carried out even before the walls are tiled. Before installation, bricks under the bathtub are pre-pasted with rolled plastic guerlain, and the walls are treated with a moisture-proof compound. The fabric layer at its base serves as a dividing element (compensator) between the cement mortar and the body, which changes its geometric parameters and shape depending on heating or cooling with water. For better adhesion and elimination of air zones between surfaces, tile adhesive is applied to the interlayer.

The "shirt" made of the same Guerlain, into which the entire iron bath is packed, not only increases its strength, but also serves as an excellent sound insulator, drowning out the noise of falling water.

Polyurethane foam is blown out from below between the red brick posts when the bath is filled with water. When the foam increases while solidifying in volume, it can lift the light container over the uprights. The weight of the water keeps the bath on the bricks. The foam heat insulator is also a good sound absorber. Finishing work is carried out with the provided hatches for the inspection of plumbing units.

It is important to note that a steel plumbing product needs to be grounded. The best way to do this is to use an industrial tested grounding device.

A comfortable, spacious, well-installed bathtub will help you enjoy water treatments. This is easy to do if you follow the sequence of work on its installation.

A bathtub installed on ordinary legs is not able to withstand a heavy structure for a long time. And the screw mount after a couple of years will begin to loosen and lose its functionality.

Therefore, the choice of many falls on the strongest supports from brick luggage. The contact area with such an installation is much larger, and therefore it is fastened much better. How the bathtub on bricks should be installed correctly, and what is important to know at the same time, we will consider in the article.

This is where to start when thinking about changes to the restroom. You need to think over actions that will be useful in the future at the level of finishing work.

The floor must be flat. Carry out waterproofing in advance. When finishing with tiles, use high-quality cement mortar, tile adhesive. If you use highly diluted low-quality glue, there will be voids between the tiles and the floor.

Don't use this method. The large weight of the bricks will crush, which will lead to cracks, breaks on the tiles. Tiling should follow after installing large plumbing fixtures. Those. for a start, a sink, a bathtub, etc. are placed, and then it is revetted.

If done correctly, a bathtub, especially an enamel one, will last a very long time.

Correct installation of the bathtub on bricks with your own hands will cause a long service life.

Why put your bathtub on bricks

This design has been a success for a very long time. There are several reasons for this:

• Reliable way;
• Has greater fastening strength;
• Stability;
• Long service life.

When buying a bathroom, legs are additionally included for its installation. But as practice shows, it is less reliable than brickwork. After 10 years of installation on the native legs of the bath, they begin to deform, as a result of which the bath itself changes. Due to these changes, water may not completely drain down the drain.

Well, if there are overweight people in the family, the life of the legs is even shorter. In this case, confidence in a long service is assigned only to the brick luggage. Usually native mounts are made of metal. Due to excess moisture in the bathroom, they will quickly rust, lose their appearance and functionality.

Required materials for installing a bathroom on bricks

For proper installation, there is no need to buy expensive tools and materials. Everyone has this set in their garage. Well, materials can be purchased at a reasonable price in hardware stores, furniture stores. Necessary:

1. Ceramite (brick), from 15 pieces.
2. Everything you need for a grout.
3. Sealant.
4. Metallic profile;
5. Bulgarian;
6. Self-tapping screws;
7. Level ruler;
8. Master OK;
9. Rubber gaskets for waterproofing.

Take tape sealant. It insulates seams well and makes work easier. Hollow bricks are not used in this case. Buy red, white.

Don't purchase gaskets if you don't have a steel tub. And if steel, install as many bricks as possible. It weighs little, so it's easier to loosen it. Level is also very important. It will help you place your bathtub smoother.

We measure the dimensions for installing the bathroom

It is important to correctly measure with the help of measuring instruments, to mark the place for the bath. This should be done only after purchasing it, since we need clear measurements, not approximate ones. Also, measurements must be taken not only before installation, but also during it.

The first step is to make the correct measurements. Use a tape measure or measuring tape. We need parameters for width, length, depth. If the depth is different in several parts of the bath, measure it several times. You also need to measure the place from the ends to the brick supports. Your bathroom can be of different lengths, but with the standard approach, the distance between brick items should be about 50 cm.

For best results, check if the measurements are correct. To do this, you need to find out the length of the bath, measure 25 cm in different directions. Brick luggage should be installed under these places in the future. It is also useful to measure the distance from the water outlet to the sewer, to the very bottom.

Choosing the right place is important. The bathtub should be in very tight contact with the wall. If you make this mistake, all the water will flow to the floor through the gaps. After a couple of months, mold will start to form. This is very harmful to both the condition of the house and its inhabitants.

But it should only adhere to two walls. If the room is small, make sure that the ends of the bathtub are not in contact with the third, fourth wall. The bath can overheat due to deformation. After installation, fully adhering to the first two walls, fill the joint with sealant. Before installing, consider the height of the bath from the floor. Approximate height - 1 brick.

It is not difficult to count the number of bricks required for luggage. Buy on average more than 15. You need two props. 2.5 bricks go to the width of the bath, and the height is at the request of the owner.

So that the water is completely poured into the sewer, the side of the drain hole is made slightly lower than the second. Experts recommend using numbers: 17 cm on the side with a hole and 19 on the side without it. But people began to make bathtubs designed in such a way that the water quickly goes away. For such a bath, the difference in the height of the racks is not worth making. For markings, transfer all the parameters of the bath in advance with a pencil on the walls and floor.

Installing props under the bath

After completing all the preparatory work, having dealt with the necessary materials, having checked all the calculations, you can proceed with the installation.

First you need to make a sand-cement mortar. The ratio is 1: 4 (more sand).

According to the first work on only one baggage. We lay the first row, wait for the solution to solidify, use a level to correct everything. The bathtub can be kept on the same level, but you can also lay the second and third. After the cement has dried at all levels, on the outer sides of the supports, add another half of the brick. It will look better. After a day, everything will completely freeze.

Do not install the bath immediately after drying. First you need to install a siphon. It is necessary to turn the bath on either side, and seal all the holes in the bath with hermetic means (except for the large and main one). Then install the siphon with overflow. Only then can you put the bath on your brick luggage.

Important! Install so that the drain pipe is below the siphon.

Installing a bathroom, how to install a bathtub on a brick

If you have a steel tub, install spacers before installing. Usually one person cannot cope with the installation, ask 1-2 people for help. Place a level carefully on the bottom of the tub.

Then grab it from different sides, lift and lower it onto the bricks. Don't forget about the bathtubs, which may already be adapted to a favorable drain. The level is used only in the classic version. This is when the bottom is parallel to the floor.

Well, if the bathtub is inside with slopes, then using the level, the correct location is noted from the outside. Do all the work slowly, do not rush anywhere. Do not forget about the snug fit of the bathtub to the wall. Talk out loud with your partner about each action.

Next, you need to carry out tests for strength and durability. Grip either side of the tub. Then gently try to take it aside. It's like trying to flip. If it has moved a little, errors were made during installation. Understand the problem, inspect carefully the entire structure. Maybe somewhere you need to put another brick, or better and use more mortar and sealant.

Rigid fixation and installation of the pipe

If the bathtub is made of steel, it is very lightweight. It has great instability. Additional supports are added to correct the problem. Usually, piers and brick luggage are used as a stand. Bricks are placed under each corner of the tub.

But how to understand by what method to solve the problem? Do you want to use the counter or build a wall? This problem can be easily solved. If the bathtub is firmly pressed with only one side to the walls, use the piers. Well, if the bathtub is in the corner between the walls, or pressed against three, it is more stable. Bricks can help here.

A cast iron bathtub has a significantly greater weight than an acrylic bathtub, and therefore the standard installation method is not suitable for it: it is almost impossible to achieve stability and evenness of the entire structure on legs. The best solution would be to install a cast iron bath on bricks.

You can do this yourself in several ways: build a base that supports the container around the entire perimeter, supports in the corners of the bath, or build legs out of brick. Step-by-step instructions and a video on which the process is filmed will help even a non-professional cope with the task.

The brick support is more reliable than the legs supplied with the product. Over time, the latter can be skewed, take a wrong position. This leads to deformation of the container itself, which disrupts the normal outflow of water from the bath.

Corrosion can appear on the metal legs due to the high humidity in the room, and the bricks are resistant to it.

A cast-iron bath installed on bricks can withstand significant loads while maintaining its original position, while a structure on metal supports may not withstand if it is used by a person with a large weight.

Room preparation

Installing a cast iron bath on bricks begins with preparation.

Dismantling the old bathtub

How to remove an old bath depends on the material of construction:

1. Cast iron or steel product. The first step is to remove the drain - the plastic structure is disassembled, the cast iron is broken using a chisel and hammer. I remove the old fastening of the bath, carefully place the container on the floor. A cast iron bath, if it is unsuitable for further operation, is allowed to be broken and taken out in parts, but this method is not suitable for steel ones.
2. Acrylic bathtub. To remove the old acrylic container, unscrew and remove the plastic straps.

If, before installation, repairs are carried out in the room and the wall decoration is changed, then the tiles should be laid on cement mortar, and not on glue. When tile adhesive is applied, air voids are left between the concrete base and the tile, and if a heavy bath is installed, the coating may crack.

You should also take care of communications: clean the sewer system, connect a tee, a water drainage system, and so on.

Materials and tools

To install a cast-iron bath on bricks, you will need:

• 15 or more bricks (the exact number depends on the size of the bathtub, the evenness of the floor in the room, the type of base - 2 supports or a belt around the entire perimeter);
• sealant;
• construction level;
• container for cement mortar;
• cement, sand;
• Master OK.

You can take both white and red bricks for work, however, it is important to make sure that there are no voids inside. A tape sealant is best suited, it will be easier for them to isolate the seams.

If you plan to install a steel bath, you will also need protective rubber pads. In this case, more bricks will be required, since a light product is less stable, and it will be more difficult to give it a secure position.

Measurement of the parameters of the room and bath

First, the future location of the container is determined, taking into account the placement of the rest of the plumbing and the washing machine. After that, measurements are taken. Work begins only after the purchase of a cast iron product, since its exact data will be required in the process.

Bath measurement

Using a tape measure, you need to find out the following parameters:

• width;
• depth (if the container narrows on one side, you need to get both values);
• length;
• the distance from the ends to the future support.

The most suitable distance between two brick props, allowing to ensure the stability of the structure, is considered to be 50 cm. If the length of the product differs from the standard one, the props are installed at a distance of 25 cm from each end. You also need to remember how far the drain hole is to the bottom of the metal structure.

Seat selection

When installing a bathtub, you should carefully consider its location. The end and one of the sides must fit snugly against the walls, otherwise, during the process of taking water procedures, the liquid will seep through the cracks, accumulating under the bath and creating conditions favorable for the development of mold.

A small technical gap should be left between the third wall and the second end of the product - it is necessary so that the cast-iron bath expanding from high temperatures does not deform. All joints of the container with the walls are thoroughly coated with sealant to exclude water leakage.

Another indicator that needs to be determined is the optimal bath height. She is chosen individually, focusing on her preferences. In this case, you need to understand that the height should be a multiple of the height of 1 brick.

Calculation of the required number of bricks

When all these data are received, they calculate how much material will go to work.

The formula for calculating in the case of using two supports: 2.5 bricks are multiplied by the width of the bathroom and added to the selected height multiplied by 2-3 bricks.

The installed bath should have a slight slope so that the water in the container can flow freely after use without stagnation. To achieve this, brick racks of different heights are made - the back one should be about 2 cm higher than the front one.

Support installation

To install the bathtub on bricks with your own hands, you must first mix the solution. It will require 4 parts of sand and 1 part of cement.

Work order:

1. The first row of bricks is laid. Check its evenness using a level, correct the position of the elements within a few minutes after laying, until the solution has set.
2. Proceed with laying 2 and 3 rows, if they are provided (the bath can be placed on 1 row).
3. When the work is over, half a brick is laid on the upper faces of the supports from both ends to get a recess for the bathroom. Watching the video will help you better understand the styling technology.
4. Leave the structure to dry for at least 24 hours.
5. After that, a siphon with an overflow is mounted: the cast-iron product is laid on the side, the drain hole is coated with a sealant.
6. Mount a siphon with an overflow. When installing it, you need to ensure that the sewer pipe is located below the outlet of the siphon.

Bath installation

The cast-iron container is heavy, and therefore an assistant will be required for work.

A level is laid at the bottom of the product, which will show the position during installation. The bath is taken by the edges at both ends, transferred to the installation site and carefully lowered onto brick supports.

Important! It is possible to set the container according to the level placed inside, only if its bottom is strictly horizontal. To the bath, the bottom of which has a slope, the tool is applied from the outside.

When it was possible to achieve a level position, the structure is checked for strength. To do this, take the side, slightly pull it to the side. If at the same time the bathtub moves, then it is installed incorrectly, there is no stability.

It is necessary to inspect the entire structure, find a problem area, lay a brick, fix it with a cement-sand mixture.

The final stage is a thorough coating of the gaps between the sides and the wall with a sealant.

Features of mounting a steel and acrylic bathtub on bricks

Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks is slightly different from the method described above. Steel and acrylic structures are much lighter, and therefore, for better stability, it is recommended to support them with additional supports. For example, a stand (if the container is adjacent to three walls) or a wall (when the bathtub is in contact with only one wall).

When the installation of the acrylic product is completed, the sides are additionally fixed to the walls using anchors or dowels. This measure will help prevent cracking during operation.

To increase sound insulation, the bottom of the bath can be foamed

To improve the thermal insulation of the product walls, it is recommended to apply polyurethane foam to the outer side of the product bottom. After such treatment, a bath made of acrylic or steel will retain heat much longer. This is done even before the container is installed on brick supports.

So that the foam applied to the bottom does not catch the eye, the space under the bathroom is covered with a screen or a moisture-resistant plasterboard partition is erected, and then tiles are laid on it.

The process of installing a cast-iron bathtub is quite simple, and takes only a couple of days, however, when working, it is important to follow all the recommendations listed so that the erected structure will serve for a long time and does not lose stability over the years.

The bathtub has long become an obligatory attribute of every home, but still modern shower cabins do not reach the level of comfort and convenience of this traditional sanitary fixture. To guarantee reliability, stability, long service life, you need to take care of the high-quality installation of the font, especially if this operation is done by hand.

There are several installation methods, the easiest of which is to install the bath on bricks. The brick base evenly distributes the weight and load on the floor slabs. In this article we will tell you how to make your own supports and fix the bathtub on them.

Advantages of the method

Installing bathtubs using brick supports is a reliable DIY method of fixing a steel, acrylic or cast iron font. For the manufacture of "legs" from this, only red solid brick is used, which can withstand intense weight loads, exposure to water and harmful microflora.

Despite the fact that each bathtub is equipped with standard metal legs, craftsmen install plumbing fixtures on a brick base, as it distributes the load more evenly and provides greater stability. This mounting method has the following advantages:

1. Stability. When installing tanks for washing on a brick base, great stability is achieved, this indicator is especially important when installing steel and acrylic products with light weight. Models made of these materials, with poor-quality fixation, swing, stagger, slide, which negatively affects the safety of use.
2. Prevention of wall deformation. The use of a solid base for installation, supporting the bottom, prevents deformation of the walls of the product, due to which the enamel lasts longer. The fact is that the walls of thin-walled models are deformed under the influence of weight loads, forcing the enamel coating to crack and peel off. In addition, this installation method reduces the draw-in noise of metal baths.
3. Versatility. With the help of brick legs, all types of baths are installed, regardless of weight, shape or size. In addition, this method allows you to easily raise the font to any height.

Note! Installing a font on bricks with your own hands is more expensive than installing using the standard legs supplied in the kit. The cost of work consists of the cost of bricks and a cement-sand mixture used to prepare the mortar. The least amount of material is required to make brick posts, but this method is not much more effective than the standard one.

The ways

Red brick is a versatile building material with which supports are made for all types of bathtubs. Depending on the weight, shape and type of product, the installation method is selected. There are the following types of brick supports for fonts:

Important! A high-quality installation of the bath on bricks minimizes the disadvantages of inexpensive, thin-walled models that are not of high quality. Thanks to a stable and reliable fixation, the product will last longer, since its walls do not deform during operation. In addition, during installation on a brick base, you can reduce the noise and thermal conductivity of metal models by insulating the bottom with foam.

Installation technology

You can easily do the installation of a plumbing fixture made of cast iron, steel or acrylic with your own hands. Before installing the bathtub on bricks, you need to level and tiled the floor, but it's better to wait with finishing the walls. For work, you will need a brick, a moisture-resistant mortar, polyurethane foam and a building level. The technology for mounting on a brick base is as follows:

Please note that the joints between the sides of the bath and the walls must be waterproofed with a sealant or other means. If the gap between them is more than 1 cm, then it is better to use a moisture-resistant mortar for embedding.

Video instruction