Sewerage device in a private house made of concrete. Features of the device of the sewerage system in a private house. What to consider when arranging an internal system

Laying sewerage is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, it is necessary to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installing a sewer for a private house is not a quick matter, but serious difficulties should not arise when doing the work yourself. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewage and a prefabricated well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a fan pipe.

Water supply and sanitation systems are usually designed and installed at the same time, since the same plumbing and household equipment is connected to them.

The procedure for laying a sewer network:

Prepare a pipeline project, taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of building materials needed.
Purchase pipes, fittings and fittings.
Cut pipes into sections according to the project.
Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
Install fan pipe.
Install outdoor sewer.
Arrange a prefabricated well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

Intra-house sewerage is collected in such a way that its lowest point is the place where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to be mistaken with the angle of inclination, you can start the assembly from this point.

If there is a project, the connection order is unimportant, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sinks - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
The connection of pipes must be tight and not interfere with the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, there should be no roughness and burrs at the junction.
Right angles should be avoided, as they are the most likely to form blockages. To perform a turn, it is better to use several knees with smaller angles.
It is necessary to prevent back suction from the sewer and the penetration of an unpleasant odor into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be equipped.
Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
Piping nodes cannot be performed in places where walls or ceilings pass.
Holes for pipes passing through walls and ceilings are cut out with a margin, it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
The points of connection to the riser and the turns of the pipeline are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future in case of clogging.
The riser is located as close as possible to the outlet of the sewer to the outside.

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Owning your own home is the dream of many people. There is nothing better than your own corner, provided with all amenities. However, everyone wants to surround themselves with comfort, and the outdoor toilet, along with the need to carry water from the well, is a thing of the past. In this regard, the question became relevant: “How is a sewerage scheme created in a private house with your own hands?”.

Creating a sewer for a private house is not as difficult as it seems

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the type of sewerage scheme in a private house. With your own hands, you can create several varieties that will have their pros and cons.

The most popular are the following varieties:

Drain well. Simply put, an ordinary pit that accumulates all waste and sewage. Such a structure is inexpensive, does not take much time during construction. The sequence of actions is simple - dig a hole at a distance of twenty meters from the house. The calculation of its volume is based on indicators of 0.7 cubic meters per person. To strengthen the walls, it is recommended to use brickwork or concrete rings. After that, for additional sealing, the seams are coated with bitumen. The bottom of the pit can be filled with concrete so that the wastewater does not poison the soil. Upon completion of construction, install a hatch for the subsequent removal of liquid. This is the simplest sewerage scheme in private houses, created by the owner with his own hands. However, such an arrangement is relevant, rather, for country houses than for a full-fledged living space;

An equally well-known method is the instillation of a closed container. This structure functions on the same principle as the drain pit. A special tank is buried in the ground, the volume of which is calculated according to the number of people living. The main waste lines are brought to the hatch of the tank. Drain water accumulates in the tank without polluting the surrounding area. A significant disadvantage of this method can be considered the need for constant cleaning.

A septic tank is difficult to build, but at the same time the most reliable sewerage system in a private house, the scheme, laying depth and components of which can guarantee efficient operation for many years. During construction, it is necessary to choose a suitable place for the future well. Distance from the house should not be less than twenty meters. Further, the walls of the pit are securely reinforced with bricks, the recommended thickness of the masonry is twenty-five centimeters. We carefully concrete the bottom, after which we proceed to laying the drain. Position it above the water. Do not forget to provide a hole through which the liquid will be removed.

Useful information! Deciding which option to choose should be based on the funds that you expect to spend during construction. The above examples differ both in the high cost of the elements and in the time costs.

In addition, do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house depends on the layout of the dwelling and the number of people who regularly live in it. Experts recommend placing rooms such as a kitchen, bathroom and toilet nearby. This configuration allows you to assign a single collector for their service, through which the waste liquid will flow into a septic tank or sewage pit.

If the house turns out to be too large, and its layout provides for a significant removal of the kitchen from other rooms with drainage, it will be required. It is necessary to take care of separate drainage, as well as provide for the possibility for pumping out drain water. Owners should take care to install risers to provide water to the upper rooms.

Related article:

In the article, we will consider options for a drainage device, how to make a reliable system with your own hands, the average cost of the work of specialists.

The components that make up the sewer for private houses with their own hands

The drainage system consists of basic elements, each of which performs its own functions. The first place in the list is occupied by the communications of the premises. Pipes and hoses located in rooms and performing the function of drainage. Laid in rooms with plumbing, at the exit they are combined by a collector, through which the waste liquid leaves.

Further, the main functions are taken over by external communications. The pipeline installed on the street is most often dug into the ground or protected by a casing. Separate drains from utility rooms can be connected to it, for example,. The main task of this node is the delivery of wastewater to the receiving device.

The final stage in the chain is the storage tank, the main function of which is to store water and other waste. Depending on the complexity of the system, the receiving device can either simply be filled with water or filter sewage.

Do-it-yourself sewerage laying in private houses: video tips and more

At the first stage, the soil layer should be carefully examined for special characteristics. When looking for a site for a drain well, you need to pay attention to:

Slopes, potholes and other natural depressions on your site;
Free access to vehicles for cleaning the storage tank;
Remoteness from economic constructions and fences.

In most cases, country houses are used seasonally and do not live there regularly. Therefore, do-it-yourself sewerage in private houses can do with a small receiving capacity.

Useful information! If you adhere to sanitary and building codes, the sewage pit must be located at a distance of at least five meters from other buildings. Experienced builders recommend increasing this distance as much as possible to isolate the house from unpleasant odors.

It is best to dig the hole in a low-lying area to provide a natural slope for runoff. Try to avoid such an arrangement in order to prevent accidents.

This video will help you understand how to draw up a diagram and plan for a drainage system:

Selection of parts and fittings for sewerage

The next step in construction is the selection of components. The quality of the fittings and other parts you choose will determine the durability and quality of the entire system.

Going to a specialized store, you need to know that the pipeline is divided into external and internal. The first combines high conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as chemical and biological substances. These communications must freely pass water and be hermetically connected to the outlet manifold.

The external pipeline has the same qualities, with the addition of specific features. Its surface can withstand the load of the earth, because such communications are buried to a depth of two meters. In addition, these pipes are absolutely hermetic and pass according to international technical parameters.

When choosing communications, pay attention to the material from which they are made. There are the following types:

cast iron;

steel;

Copper;

Reinforced concrete;

Asbestos-cement;

Ceramic;

Plastic.

Each material has specific features suitable for certain conditions.

In addition to the main "arteries", fittings are important. These parts are used to connect the laid pipes to the drainage system.

To perform various functions, such varieties are provided as:

Couplings - used to connect pipe segments;

Reductions - for connecting ends of various diameters;

Revisions - to remove blockages and dirt;

Tees - to create branches;

The sewerage layout in a private house is designed without fail in the process of preparing general construction documentation. If you need to organize the collection of wastewater in an already operating building, you will have to order a separate project or do it yourself.

Layout of sewer pipes at the foundation stage

Made in accordance with all the rules, and providing the most optimal way of water disposal for a private house. But homeowners do not always seek help from specialists, but prefer to resolve the issue on their own.

Where do you need to start if you want to make a sewer with your own hands? Of course from the drawing. But in order to do it right, you need to choose the right scheme that matches the real conditions, and understand how the system should function.

Sample sewerage scheme

What you need to know before designing

To design a system, you need to answer the following questions:

Is it possible to connect to the city highway, will it only be necessary to collect sewage waste, or is it also necessary to organize their cleaning?
How much wastewater will be recycled? It depends both on the number and seasonality of people living in the house, and on the availability and variety of water points.

Figure for clarity - water consumption per day

You should find out the depth to which the soil freezes through. This is necessary for the proper deepening of the sewer outlet.
GWL - the mark at which the groundwater mirror is located (read how it is carried out in the article). If they are located high, a sewerage system can also be built on the plot to collect storm drains.
It is necessary to assess whether the topography of the site contributes to the fact that drains can merge by gravity. Otherwise, you will have to use it, and you need to immediately determine the place where it should be installed.

How to make a sewer in a private house if you have to use a pump

When installing treatment facilities, you need to immediately decide on their type, consider the possibility of access to sewage equipment (read how it is done in the article).
It is necessary to accurately establish the type of soil in the area, in accordance with which a decision is made either on the device, filtration trenches or fields.
It is required to draw a diagram indicating all types of plumbing equipment. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the option of laying the pipeline: inside the floor or on the surface, in order to understand whether any dismantling work will have to be done.

What is the purpose of the internal network wiring diagram? First of all, in order to correctly calculate the amount of necessary materials and accurately determine their location in the system.

What sewer is better to do in a private house

The sewerage device in a private house consists of wiring for rooms and an external network. Internally, the system may include one or more vertical risers, which are adjacent to pipes with a smaller diameter. Through these pipes, which must be located with a slope, the wastewater moves by gravity from the flow points to the general drain.

The device of gravity sewerage in a house under construction

What are the nuances to consider when laying pipes

Getting into the riser, water under the influence of gravity falls down and enters an external pipeline of a larger diameter, connected either to the central highway or to a local storage or treatment facility.

When designing a circuit, you need to consider a few simple rules:

The best wiring option for private ownership is when there is only one riser in the circuit. And this is possible only when the bathroom and kitchen are concentrated in one part of the house and only a partition separates them. That is why in apartments these rooms are most often located nearby.
A supply pipe goes to the riser, to which, as in the photo below, all plumbing fixtures are connected. The slope of pipes with a diameter of up to 80 mm should be about 2 cm per 1 m / p.
The points for draining water from appliances should be located so that the toilet is closest to the riser - in this case, the place of its connection to the drain pipe will be at the lowest point. This is important, as otherwise the drains from the toilet can get into the drain holes from other appliances.

Stand in the bathroom

Tip: it is advisable to install a grease trap on the pipe coming from the dishwasher and kitchen sink.

Scheme with a grease trap

If possible, unnecessary turns of the pipeline should be avoided, since it is in these places that blockages most often occur. But if you cannot do without them, the turn must be made as smooth as possible. So, to get a right angle, use either 3 knees of 30 or 2 of 45 degrees.

What materials are best to use

Today, not only in private construction, but also in high-rise buildings, not heavy cast iron is used to assemble sewer pipelines, but light, durable and inexpensive plastic, the joints of which are sealed with polymer sealant.

The range of lubricants and pastes for sewer pipes is large

When connecting the drain hole of a sanitary appliance to a drain pipe, it is very important to arrange water seals, the role of which is played by U-shaped pipes. The water that is constantly in their bend is an obstacle to the penetration of fetid odors from the sewer into the room.

An example of a water seal device

Below are the pipe sections (in millimeters) for the installation of distribution branches, depending on the type of sanitary equipment:

bath, sink and shower drain, if the pipe is common - 50;
if all separately - 40;
bidet - 30 or 40;
toilet - 100
kitchen sink - 30 or 40.

Note: these figures are relevant provided that the toilet is 1 meter from the riser, and the other drain points are no further than 3. If these distances are greater, the diameter of the pipes will have to be increased.

For a riser, which receives not only water from the kitchen, but also drains from the toilet, pipes are taken with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm. The same section should be in any riser in. If there is no toilet in the house, but only a shower and a kitchen sink, 50 mm pipes are enough to install a riser.

Why stand up ventilation

In the domestic sewerage system, the riser is the central link that unites all branches of the wiring. It is through it that all waste enters the street network, and, accordingly, gases can accumulate in it. For their removal, ventilation is also needed, which is carried out thanks to the fan pipe crowning the riser, which, as a rule, is brought out to the roof or outside the outer wall (details are described in the article).

Please note: it is important that there is at least four meters between the vent pipe and the nearest window or balcony.

The simplest version of the ventilation riser with an exhaust hood

When installing the riser, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

We have already mentioned that the distance from the toilet to the riser should be minimal, so the riser is always located in the toilet.
In a vertical pipe, and preferably on each floor, it is necessary to arrange inspection hatches for cleaning.

Inspection hatches for sewerage

To soundproof the risers, they are sheathed with drywall and even covered with mineral wool, but access to the inspection hatch should still be.
A valve is installed at the top of the riser through which air enters the system and prevents the return of water.
At the bottom, it connects to a horizontal pipe, which should have either the same diameter or a little more.

Connection of the riser with a horizontal pipe and its exit outside the house

Note: in one-story houses, wiring can be done without a riser at all, while pipes from all points of water flow are connected to one common one, as shown in the photo below. This version of the device has a place to be, but here's what happens: if you drain the water in the toilet and bathroom at the same time, it, going down with force, sucks in the water that is in the water seal. That is, a vacuum is created, since there is no air compensation, and when the water seal is empty, odors from the sewer enter the room.

Sewerage without a riser

Outdoor part of the system

The outer part of the sewer begins from the point where a horizontal pipe that receives drains from a vertical riser or individual branches goes outside the house. And here you have to think about how best to organize the removal or collection of sewage waste.

Wastewater collection options

A variety of solutions are used to collect wastewater. What options can be, clearly shown in the table:

Options in pictures	A comment
Connection to the city sewer	If your water supply is organized from the central highway, then the easiest way is to connect the sewer to the city network. Your task will be to pay for the connection, equip a manhole with a meter, and stretch a pipeline to it from the house. If the distance exceeds 15 m, or there are drops and turns on the track, wells will also need to be installed at each of these points.
Cesspool under the house	right under the house is provided for when installing a backlash closet. In this case, the waste from the toilet is not flushed into the public sewer. For them, under the outer wall, which has a toilet room, a cesspool is being dug. The remaining drains can be drained into a filter well with a permeable bottom.
Single chamber septic tank	is located four to six meters from the house, and all sewer waste is collected in it. Otherwise, it does not differ from a cesspool - when filling it, it also has to be pumped out by a sewage machine, and, by the way, this has to be done more often. To make pumping out easier and more fully, the bottom of the tank, if it is rectangular, is made with a slope. For construction, a concrete monolith or rings, red brick and even car tires can be used.
Vertical sedimentation tanks	In order not to create difficulties for the operation of the sewer machine, the depth of the septic tank should not exceed 3 meters. The volume is determined by calculation, but for a family of 3-4 people, or for a country house of non-permanent residence, 3 m3 is usually quite enough. In most cases, in modern cottage development, one septic tank is installed, which is assembled from three or four wall rings plus a neck. If the family is larger, and, accordingly, the daily water consumption also increases, there may be two or even three septic tanks. At the same time, the solid content of the waste remains in the first settling tank, and already half-clarified water is poured into the next tank.
	The last well is provided with a permeable bottom with drainage material wrapped in geotextile. The walls are also made permeable using perforated rings, brickwork with a gap, or ready-made plastic containers with slots. Rainwater from the storm drain can drain into the same well. Passing through the drainage layer, the effluents enter the soil almost clean.
Overflow horizontal septic tank for local cleaning	Vertical septic tanks are usually installed with small volumes of wastewater. If there is a need to increase - and, as already mentioned, it is impossible to deepen more than three meters, the structure can only be expanded horizontally. In this case, they either use rings of a larger diameter (not 1, but 1.5 or 2 m), install a ready-made monolithic septic tank with several compartments, or construct a rectangular brick tank with a partition and overflow holes in it.
Bioseptic design	In general, there can be a lot of solutions. In particular, you can give preference to factory plastic septic tanks, operating on the principle of biological treatment. Depending on the required volume, they are also two- or three-chamber. They almost do not require pumping (the sediment is removed once a year), are easy to install, and purified water can be used for technical purposes or for irrigation (read how to organize it in the article). If the waste water is not used anywhere, then it simply drains into the ground through the same drainage well, which was mentioned above. Or, if the permeability of the soil in the area is low (for example, it is clayey), a filtration field can be equipped instead of a well.

Basic requirements for the installation of septic tanks

The design and arrangement of engineering systems - and in particular, sewage, in single-family residential buildings is carried out in accordance with the requirements. We list the main ones below:

The most important thing is to properly equip the pipeline entering the house: insulate it and prevent the accumulation of water in this place (described in the article). In the pipes themselves, sewage never stands, and therefore does not freeze.
It is best to equip the input with a sleeve with a warm sealing cuff, as shown in the photo.

Sleeve for arranging the entry of sewerage into the house

The depth of the pipes depends on the location of the outlet, and it is interconnected with the height of the neck of the septic tank. When designing a system, you need to start from the structure of the foundation of the house (read in the article), which determines whether the pipe outlet will pass through it, or you can run a pipe under its sole.

Arrangement of release on a pile foundation

As a result, it should turn out so that the pipe, approaching the septic tank at a slope, can enter it no lower than 15 centimeters from the base of the neck.
Its height usually does not exceed 90 cm, so the maximum depth of the pipe at the point of its entry into the septic tank will be 1.05 meters. Near the foundation, with a route length of 10-12 m, the mark of the bottom of the pipe will be about 0.9 m.

Pipe entry through the basement, through the foundation wall

If either is a shallow tape, the pipe passes under it without problems. With a deeper laying in the walls of the foundation, it is necessary to lay a sleeve in order to carry out communications. Or, if this has not been done, you have to drill them later.
When installing a septic tank, it is necessary to observe not only the distances from the house and water supply facilities, but also other buildings on your own and neighboring plots. For clarity, below is a diagram.

Norms for placing a septic tank on a personal plot

Pipelines must be laid on local soil of undisturbed density. If the trench has to be leveled, then, in order to avoid subsidence, the backfill must be carefully compacted.

It's always better when a project is drawn up by a professional. If you visit the thematic forums and read the reviews of people puzzled by serious problems with the sewer, you will understand that the miser can pay even more than twice.

To make life in the country comfortable, it is necessary to carry out the main communications - plumbing and sewerage. In suburban areas, there is often no centralized sewerage network, so each owner of the house solves the problem on his own. Periodic use of the dwelling does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment, it is enough to arrange a septic tank.

Often in summer cottages, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is quite justified, but with the installation of plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article, we will talk about how to make a sewer in a country house with our own hands in various ways (from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Sewerage should be built according to the developed project, including schemes for external and internal piping.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter wastewater.
An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an inclination of 30 mm per linear meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and fixed to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment plant. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings of a large area. Specialists are engaged in the installation and launch of the device, the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line must lie at a slope providing the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The average depth for laying sewers is 1 meter, in warm regions it is enough to go down by 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped with a manhole. For the line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of sewage, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. In two-chamber septic tanks, the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in wastewater, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a design will also have to be periodically pumped out in order to get rid of the sediment that accumulates in the sump. This can be done with a fecal / drainage pump. The frequency of maintenance of a septic tank depends entirely on the size / volume / composition of wastewater.

For the independent construction of such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The norm of water consumption per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of households, you will get the daily rate of water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually, this sediment thickens and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be immediately cleaned. The septic tank needs to be cleaned infrequently. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge for 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

Before installing the finished structure of the septic tank, it is necessary to determine a suitable place for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house should go directly to the septic tank. Turning the pipeline is best avoided, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab / screed. The size of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

After installing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done with the help of cables placed in the stiffeners of the septic tank. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to communications, after digging trenches for pipes, laying a sand cushion and installing pipes. They should be laid under a slight slope - 1-2 cm per linear meter. Pipe laying is carried out to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and a building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the shield to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. The septic tank has special holes with stamps. Connect a cable to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After completing the connection of electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be covered with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure in the process of backfilling the soil, water must be poured into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the backfill level of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with a ready-made plastic autonomous sewage treatment system, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for the implementation of the plan is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

Affordable price.
Unpretentiousness during operation.
The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is illiterate, then the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated sewage penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be airtight, so this drawback of the system is rightfully called conditional.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

If few people live in your house and a minimum of plumbing devices are connected to the sewer, then you can easily get by with a septic tank, consisting of one sump and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have many households and many devices are connected to the sewer, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must contain a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that in order to build a septic tank for 5 people, you will need a sump of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people, you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m 3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that in order to equip a septic tank in this particular case, you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate the septic tank chambers and the filter well. These works, of course, can be done manually, but it is long and very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earthmoving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before starting concrete work, it is necessary to drain a part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a blank bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. It is very difficult to perform these tasks manually. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor intensive. Yes, and the bottom will have to be filled after the installation of the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. From the outside, the tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, in which holes are provided for mounting sewer manholes. Ideally, the backfilling of the excavation should be carried out with soil with a high percentage of sand in its composition. But if it is impossible to realize this, the pit can be covered with soil removed from it before.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The wastewater treatment system from barrels, as well as a similar design made of concrete goods, can be two- or three-chamber. Wastewater will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The principle of operation of this device is similar to the construction of reinforced concrete rings.

For the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system according to the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. These can be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have several advantages over their metal counterparts:

A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of dirty water penetrating into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fixed when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts, they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are fastened with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). In order not to crush plastic barrels, backfilling should be carried out very carefully.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for arranging sewerage is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a cover, you can use a wooden blank of the appropriate size or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig an appropriate pit, which also needs to be concreted - walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, their installation as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For the installation of a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

geotextile - 80 m 2;
sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
building level;
drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

Shovel.
Electric jigsaw.
Rake.

For a summer house / small country house, with economical use, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is easy. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

For private houses with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes / tanks / tanks. The process of their installation in the ground does not differ from the installation of barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated with foam. After that, the pit with a septic tank is filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels are short-lived, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Schemes

The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of functioning, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the development of the project. The graphic part of the project documentation, in accordance with which the sewerage system is installed in a private house with their own hands - the layout of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information on regulatory requirements and the main problems of drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for choosing sewer equipment and the features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage scheme with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

TCP 45-4.01-51-2007"Water supply and sewerage systems of manor houses";
SanPiN 42-128-4690-88"Sanitary rules for the maintenance of territories of populated areas";
SanPiN 4630"Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution";
SNiP 30-02-97"Planning and development of territories of horticultural associations of citizens, buildings and structures."

When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Sumps and cesspools should not be located closer than 4 m to the border of the neighboring plot and 15 m to drinking water.

The scheme should describe the mechanism for connecting the internal and external sewage, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part should be linked to the plan of the house and the backyard, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Affecting Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water consumption, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

The magnitude of the volley discharge- peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, falls on the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
Performance of treatment facilities. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for the disposal of treated wastewater is selected:

up to 5 m 3 / day - discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
up to 0.3 m 3 / day - periodic removal by a special vehicle is allowed;
The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by their quantity, but also by the degree of treatment in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

M material for the manufacture of sewage treatment plants:, fiberglass, metal, various polymers (, polyethylene). The design of the structure, the method of installation, further maintenance and operation depend on the technical characteristics of the material;
Power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment facilities are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
Building site topology- terrain, slope direction, proximity to water bodies and the presence of potential places for discharge of treated sewage water;
Geodesy of the construction site- the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost of installation work, the need for additional or the purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle depend on these factors.

Varieties of sewer facilities and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment facilities are allowed for the arrangement and laying of sewers in a private house:

septic tank;
filter well;
underground filtration field;
filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed facilities should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which performs primary rough cleaning.

septic tank

The most common, when arranging a sewer for a private house with your own hands, are two types of septic tanks:

Cumulative - are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to sources / wells of drinking water. A significant disadvantage is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewage services.

With soil cleaning. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or falls by gravity into the filtration facilities, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, they seep into the ground.

Filter well

Effluent entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and seeps through it to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

pipe;
Plate chipper;
Pipe for the flow of waste.

For arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. excessive soil pollution. As a material for making walls, it is often used (with holes in the masonry), large-diameter plastic or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

On the site lay with perforated walls. Through them, runoff is distributed over a large drainage area and soaked into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel pack. This method is associated with a significant amount of earthwork. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

Gravel filter thickness - 20÷50 cm;
Diameter of perforated pipes - 20÷50 cm;
The distance from the soil surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5 ÷ 25 m / day - 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25 ÷ 100 m / day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75 ÷ 300 m / day - a distance reduction of up to 2 m is allowed.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is mandatory to install a 100 mm diameter, at least 70 cm high above the soil surface.

filter trench

The filter trench performs the same functions as the underground filtration field, collecting wastewater after a septic tank, their additional treatment and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep water table, since the trench must also have a significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and the depth of the trench is calculated according to the same methodology used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is taken according to the standard of 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8 ÷ 1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to arrange from 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

STP scheme components

The most effective for a private house are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers, divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed by hand and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. In everyday life, do not use overly aggressive chemicals that can destroy bacteria. The unit must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, the pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned with a car vacuum cleaner;
In the second section (aerotank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen by aeration. This is where the active phase of cleaning takes place by biodegradation by bacteria;
In the third section - a sump, activated sludge is settled;
From the fourth section, where water enters with the help of a jet pump from the secondary clarifier, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or a drainage pump.

Internal sewerage device in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The composition of the internal sewerage includes the following elements;

Plumbing fixtures:,;
Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
Branch lines;
Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When laying sewers in a private house, the normative indicators of the slope are often neglected, making it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water, they accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house of pipes

Diameter, mm	Optimal slope	Minimum allowable slope
50	0,035	0,025
100	0,02	0,012
150	0,01	0,007
200	0,008	0,003

Connection to the riser of branch pipelines is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms is allowed to be carried out in an open way. Fastening is carried out with special couplings with dowels, or pipes are located on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewer pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, ducts, under the floor. For maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and drainage sewer lines are equipped with revisions in accordance with the standards:

Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
At the bends of the pipeline (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
On leprous horizontal areas every 8 m.

Video of arranging a sewer in a private house with your own hands, the correct laying of pipes with a slope:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal material for pipes for sewerage of a private house are polymers. Products made from them are lightweight and can be installed by hand without the involvement of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long-term training and special skills. The exemplary material is not subject to corrosion and aggressive effects of household chemicals, it has a long service life. For the sewerage of a private house, the following polymers are most often used:

PVP (high density polyethylene)- Affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°С;
PP()– has good performance, maximum operating temperature +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, has a rather high cost;
PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- material with the best combination of cost and quality. It can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical impacts of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term operation, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common way to install a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

The bell and the smooth end are cleared of pollution;
A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or ordinary liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a marker is made on the smooth part of the pipe, after which it is pulled 1 cm out of the socket.

Do-it-yourself stages of work on sewerage in a private house

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

Determination of the amount of wastewater, the volume and performance of the septic tank;
Determination of the location of the septic tank on the plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
The device of the internal sewer network;
Installation of external treatment facilities;
Laying of the pipeline and connections of external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of the volume of a septic tank

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

Type of housing and type of life	Consumption, l / day for 1 person
Residential building equipped with plumbing and sewerage system without bath	125÷160
Residential building equipped with plumbing and sewerage system with bathroom and local	160÷230
Residential building equipped with a sewerage system and a centralized hot water supply system	230÷350
Taking a shower (average 15 min)	150
Use of the toilet	8
Usage	40÷70
Usage	15

The calculation formula looks like this:

V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , where

V - the volume of the septic tank in m 3;

n – number of permanent residents;

Q - average water consumption per person in m 3;

3 - the number of days of the complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP).

For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, a family of 4 will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To facilitate calculations, we have developed a handy calculator especially for our readers.

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 m 2 of the filter surface of the well:

Composition of the filtrate	The maximum volume of sewage to be cleaned, m 3 / day per 1 m 2 of the filtering surface
Composition of the filtrate	For year-round operation of a private residential building	During seasonal operation of a country house
gravel, crushed stone	0.15÷0.20	0.18÷0.24
coarse sand	0.10÷0.15	0.12÷0.18
	0.05÷0.10	0.06÷0.12

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 linear meter of the pipeline of the underground filtration field:

Composition of the filtrate	The maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 / day per 1 m linear drainage pipeline
Composition of the filtrate	Up to 500	500÷600	Over 600
Gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand	0.012÷0.025	0.0096÷0.0225	0.0084÷0.02
Fine sand, sandy loam	0.006÷0.020	0.0048÷0.18	0.0042÷0.016

Table of the volume of domestic wastewater per 1 linear meter of the filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close as possible to each other, this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewerage system of a private house with your own hands, the following factors must be considered:

it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
It is recommended that other plumbing fixtures be connected to the sewer network above the toilet connection level, this will exclude the possibility of fecal masses entering the outlet lines;
Piping must be rotated using several angled bends. For example, two 45° or three 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
The sewer riser is necessarily displayed on the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer inside;
The maximum distance for connecting plumbing fixtures to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and the toilet bowl 1 m.

Installation and equipment of the sewage tank

For the installation of a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit breaks out with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion about 10 cm thick is arranged. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in the pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have a rather significant weight. In most cases, fasteners are provided on the case. After installation, the container must be leveled. Neck extensions may be required depending on the design.

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