Internal insulation has a lot of disadvantages, includingworth first of all, highlight the formation of condensation. Therefore, your house, especially a wooden one, should be insulated from the outside - in this case, the internal temperature of the walls will drop very slowly. In this case, the location of the cold zone will fall out onto the inside of the insulation, so it will not touch the wooden walls.
It is better to combine house insulation with a vapor barrier material installed from the inside - this will not only prevent the penetration of cold from the outside, but also prevent condensation from accumulating in the structure and destroying it. As a result, the house will be warm and the humidity level will always be normal.
Note! You should always leave a small air gap between the wooden wall and the insulation, otherwise mold will appear there and the structure will collapse sooner or later.
The modern building materials market offers a wide range of insulation materials, among which everyone can choose a suitable option both in quality and in cost. The most popular of them today is mineral wool, so let's start with it.
The main advantage of this material is fire safety, which, in fact, makes it so popular. Moreover, mineral wool provides good ventilation, prevents the formation of rot and fungus, and also conducts heat well.
Minuses:
- the material easily loses its original shape;
- it is short-lived - after a year of operation, almost half of its properties are lost.
The average cost of a cubic meter of mineral wool is about 1,500 rubles. This figure varies in one direction or another, depending on the manufacturer and the technical characteristics of the material.
Another option that you can resort to when insulating a house made of wood. Polyfoam consists of many air-filled granules, which provides lightness and good thermal insulation.
Pros:
- excellent sound insulating properties;
- long service life;
- ease of installation;
- resistance to deformation and decay;
- high density;
- resistance to temperature changes.
Minuses:
- environmental insecurity;
- tendency to quickly burn.
But the main disadvantage of the material can be considered that it cannot be used when insulating wooden houses due to poor vapor permeability, etc.
A square meter of polystyrene costs from 50 to 300 rubles, depending on the thickness and the firm producing the spruce.
Penoplex is also widely used in building insulation. It is produced by extrusion, resulting in a material of uniform consistency. The advantages of the material include:
- environmental friendliness;
- incombustibility;
- safety;
- ease of use;
- water-repellent characteristics (due to the fact that there are no micropores in the cells);
- the ability to withstand heavy physical exertion;
- durability, resistance to decay;
- low thermal conductivity.
Minuses:
- on contact with organic solvents, the material is destroyed;
- difficulties arise when trimming and fitting;
- vapor resistance can sometimes be more of a minus than a plus.
A cubic meter of penoplex costs about 4,000 rubles. Insulating a wooden house with such material is effective, but very expensive.
Note! If you want to insulate your house and protect it without spending a lot of money on it, then it is recommended to pay attention to mineral wool. The technology below is based on the use of this material.
Isoplate is made from coniferous trees, and no chemical binders are added. Due to this, the plate does not dry out and does not deform over time. In addition, Izoplat is environmentally friendly and as effective as the tree itself.
Pros:
- thermal insulation: 12 mm slab \u003d 44 mm solid wood
- sound insulation from -23 dB
- elasticity: the slab fits snugly to the frame, breaking cold bridges at the joints
- vapor permeability: slabs removes excess moisture from the wall, preventing the formation of mold and mildew in the house
- ease of installation: Isoplat is pressed against the wall and nailed, a ventilated facade is installed on top and that's it. No more materials and work is required.
- paraffin impregnation: protects walls from atmospheric moisture
- 100% environmentally friendly
Minuses:
- - higher price in comparison with other materials, but it will pay off, since Izoplat is guaranteed to "work" for more than 70 years and no alterations are required.
The first stage of work is to prepare the necessary tools and building materials.
What is required in the work
When insulating a house you will need:
- mineral wool;
- scotch;
- wooden slats (250 mm thick);
- nails;
- polyethylene film;
- staples;
- boards, approximately 10x5mm;
- slats, 5x3 cm;
- waterproofing.
And now - directly to work.
First stage. Surface preparation
At the end of the installation, the outer walls of the house will remain closed, so first they should be protected from harmful microorganisms and decay. For this purpose, special compounds are applied to the surface, which must be allowed to dry completely. Usually it takes a little time and after a few days you can start editing.
Second phase. Vapor barrier
Wooden houses are good because they do not need an air layer between the vapor barrier and the outer surface of the walls. For this reason, you can immediately attach the plastic wrap. Wooden slats are nailed to a flat surface (approximately every meter), to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached with brackets. This distance is necessary to ensure adequate ventilation. Holes are made from below and above between the slats to exclude the possibility of moisture accumulation and to increase the intensity of air circulation.
The points of attachment of the film to the slats must be sealed with tape, which will protect the insulation from moisture penetration.
Stage three. Frame construction
Next, you need to create a wireframe. Boards should be nailed, being installed "on the edge", in increments of 1.5-2 cm less than the width of the insulation board. By the way, mineral wool has sufficient rigidity to be laid in a frame without additional fasteners. In any case, the sheets of material will not slip.
Note! Professionals advise installing two layers of insulation at once in our climatic zone. It is characteristic that the joints between the slabs of the first and second layers should not coincide.
Fourth stage. Waterproofing
The final stage of work is the installation of waterproofing designed to protect the insulation from moisture penetration. The membrane is ideal for this - its special structure provides air access, thereby creating additional ventilation, and at the same time does not allow moisture to pass to the mineral wool.
The waterproofing must be attached to the frame in the same way as the vapor barrier. This creates a 2 cm overlap at the joints. The joints themselves are glued with tape to ensure tightness.
Fifth stage. Ventilated facade
If you do all these procedures, then a ventilated facade is created in parallel. It is designed to circulate air flows between the waterproofing and the outer layer of the surface finish. For this reason, an additional wireframe layer needs to be created. A similar crate is being built, but this time the slats are used of a different size - 3x5 cm. A fine-mesh iron mesh is installed at the bottom of the frame, which will prevent the penetration of insects and small rodents.
Sixth stage. Facade finishing
What material will be used for finishing the facade depends entirely on the design features, financial capabilities and personal wishes of the owner. For example, to give your home an attractive look, you can:
- sheathe clapboard;
- finish it with facade tiles;
- sheathe boards;
- build vinyl siding.
Siding is considered the most suitable option, but when installing it, you need to adhere to some rules.
- First of all, when finishing with siding, you should move from the bottom up.
- It is imperative to leave a gap of 1 cm between the panels of the material.
- To fix the siding, you must use nails or screws.
Possible mounting options
Before proceeding with the insulation of a wooden house, it is necessary to find out what its bearing capacity is. In the construction of simple frame buildings, a strip foundation is mainly used. Therefore, in this case, it will be necessary to install an additional base, made in the form of a strip under the cladding. It is desirable that the base is directly connected to the foundation.
The insulating layer is attached to the frame, we have already talked about this.
Sometimes, for insulation, a hinged frame is used, for the manufacture of which perforated aluminum profiles were used. Also, external walls can be insulated with light materials, for example, pressed flax or wood chips. Of course, the effectiveness of these materials cannot be compared with mineral wool or foam.
As a conclusion
High-quality insulation materials are available today to every owner of a wooden house. If you carry out all the work correctly, the result will be not only a cozy atmosphere, but also significant budget savings. Moreover, such a house will look beautiful and presentable - in any case, the owner will have something to be proud of.
Video - Insulation of the walls of a wooden house
All photos from the article
Wooden houses have a number of positive qualities, but at the same time they have one significant drawback - a high coefficient of heat loss. To solve this problem, it is necessary to carry out wall insulation, observing a certain technology. In this article we will look at how and how to insulate the walls in a wooden house.
Wall insulation
If a wooden house is used for year-round living, and not only as a summer country house, then it must be insulated. Otherwise, the heating costs will be high, despite the fact that it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve a comfortable temperature, especially during severe frosts. In addition, insulation also provides sound insulation of the premises ().
First of all, it should be said that a wooden house can be insulated in two ways:
- Outside;
- From the inside.
Each type of insulation has its own technology, which we will get acquainted with below.
External insulation
First of all, we will consider how to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside. It should be noted that outdoor insulation is currently the most popular.
The only thing is that it is of high quality and does not have a negative effect on the walls of the house, you need to choose the right material. When choosing the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you need to pay attention to such a property of insulation as vapor permeability.
This property is possessed by mineral wool, which is sold in the form of slabs, rolls and mats. Another advantage of this material is fire safety, which is equally important for a wooden house.
The only serious disadvantage of rockwool is its susceptibility to moisture. As a result, when installing insulation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality waterproofing.
As for expanded polystyrene, it is not recommended to use it, since it does not allow steam and air to pass through at all, and this, in turn, leads to the formation of mold. In addition, expanded polystyrene is not an environmentally friendly material.
Note! External insulation of the house can only be performed in dry weather. It is advisable to do this procedure in the summer.
Construction science recommends to do external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation, moisture will not condense on the walls in rooms.
But there are still cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside - is the only correct solution. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of rounded logs, or the laws prescribe the preservation of the historical appearance of the building.
Modern building science allows you to make internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you should use the right materials and follow the technology.
Preparatory work
All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by engineering calculations... This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.
The heat engineering calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? Insulation will always fulfill its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.
The dew point should never be on the inner walls. and even more so in insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, then the room will be warm, but in the cold season it is constantly damp. And from the damp porous insulation gets wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted animals are massively bred.
Only if the dew point is not inside the room, even in the coldest period, can you confidently produce internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this - in no way!
Materials used for internal insulation
Materials used in the internal insulation of the house, must meet certain requirements:
- First, they must have a low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
- Secondly, these materials must meet the fire safety requirements for premises.
- Thirdly, the material, alone or in combination with the mounting structure, must provide the required mechanical strength.
- And finally, all materials used in the room must be environmentally friendly and not emit any chemicals into the ambient air that are bad for the health of living beings.
Warming methods
Ways of insulating a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. Several types of them are used in modern construction:
- Mineral basalt wool slabs - are used most often. This material does not burn, it is environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of the enclosing structure, and high hygroscopicity requires covering the mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
- Expanded polystyrene plates (polystyrene), also found application in internal insulation. It is not recommended to use them, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burning, pressless expanded polystyrene releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, you can use only extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1. Insulation with expanded polystyrene also requires an enclosing structure.
- Glass wool - a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, however, it also has a higher thermal conductivity. To insulate the interior with glass wool, only a material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which must additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, therefore, installation is carried out only in protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs. Requires enclosing structures.
- Izoplat - modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed flax fiber and fiberboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength allows not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. Izoplat's thermal conductivity indicators are worse, and the price is much higher than that of other heaters.
- Insulation with polyurethane foamsprayed onto the surface is a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Fencing structures are needed for such insulation.
In this video you can see how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.
Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside
Sealing joints
A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, will settle for quite some time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on, the wood is intensively drying out in the house, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or glued beam. Initially, even well-laid logs or timber can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be mercilessly carried out into the atmosphere.
Therefore, the first operation to insulate a house is to seal the joints.
Fire bio-protection of a tree
When insulated, the inner part of the walls will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for a fairly long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which for a long time excludes the development of living creatures and makes it difficult to ignite... You should not save on this, you need to choose only good compositions that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.
When processing walls with fire-retardant compositions, it must be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be processed, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.
Heat insulation and ventilation
Why didn't they think much about the ventilation of houses before? Because the ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through leaks in wall and window structures.
Modern building materials and technologies exclude any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern homes, a ventilation system is designed that should supply fresh air to the room and remove waste air.
Good internal thermal insulation must always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But ventilation is also required by the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, for example, mineral wool. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the layer of thermal insulation there must be an air gap through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity in the entire room.
Such gaps are very easy to implement in practice. A wooden strip of about 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls with a certain gap, and a vapor barrier membrane is already attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents the increased humidity of the inner walls and the insulation.
If the walls of the house are built from cylindrical logs, then the ventilation gaps are obtained in a natural way, and if from glued beams, then the ventilation gap is very desirable.
Vapor barrier
If used as a heater basalt wool, glass wool, non-pressed polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier must be done. For this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation crate using a construction stapler. The foil must be stretched enough so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. the joining of the two vapor barrier panels is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using tape and a stapler.
If the inner space of the house will be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.
Installation of the enclosing structure
With all methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat plates, the construction of a building envelope is required. Most often it is made from a wooden square bar in cross section 50 mm in size. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a snug fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance should be exactly the width of the insulation boards.
Before installation it is necessary to treat all the bars with a fire retardant compound. Installation is carried out with screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If a crate was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to the previously mounted slats. In this case, it is better to wrap the screws in the holes pre-drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.
Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as the enclosing structure, which are attached to the walls with straight suspensions. This should only be done when drywall will be used as the finish, and in all other cases it is better to use a wooden block. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.
When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similar to the wall one. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as a building envelope.
Installation of insulation
Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If a insulation sheet, then installation on the walls is carried out from the bottom up, and roll, on the contrary, from top to bottom.
Mineral wool slabs are placed on the floor, which makes it possible for them to hold on securely. However, you should still additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool using special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.
Roll insulation fixed from above with one dowel, rolled down and fixed with dowels at intervals of 1 meter. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.
Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloped roof, rolls up from the bottom up and can be fixed with dowels or with a cord. To do this, small carnations are stuffed onto neighboring bars with an interval of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation between the beams, a cord is pulled in a zigzag manner, which will reliably hold the mineral wool.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with polyurethane foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is trimmed with a knife.
Final waterproofing
After the installation of the insulation, if the insulation was made with porous materials that can absorb water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but with a special one - vapor-permeable membrane, which is, on the one hand, a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the moisture content of the insulation becomes equal to the humidity in the room.
The vapor-permeable film has two sides: one smooth and the other rough, through which water vapor escapes. With a rough side, such a film is laid to the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the enclosing structure. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with adhesive tape and fixed with a stapler. A vapor-permeable membrane is not needed for waterproof insulation.
The final stage of insulation there will be installation of the topcoat, which can be wooden lining, drywall, plywood, OSB boards and others.
conclusions
- Insulation of walls inside a wooden house is extremely rare and very often a necessary measure.
- Before installing the internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point in the cold season. Precise dew should not be on the inner walls and in the insulation.
- As insulation, you should choose only environmentally friendly from well-known manufacturers.
- Porous insulation must be covered with waterproofing films from the side of the wall and a vapor-permeable membrane from the side of the room.
When building a private house, both the developer and the future owner of the cottage should pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and ensuring comfortable living conditions even in the most severe cold. This fully applies to buildings made of logs or beams. But at the same time, such cottages have their own specificity, due to the material from which they are built. It cannot be ignored - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and the decoration of buildings from a log house and a bar. Therefore, it is not so easy to decide how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and how, and you need to approach this matter in detail.
Carrying out measures for the installation of thermal insulation in a house from a bar or log house, it is imperative to take into account the peculiarities of wood as a material. There are many of them, but the main ones are two - high vapor permeability and susceptibility to the effects of fungus and other microorganisms.
The first means that the wood absorbs and passes moisture through itself both from the inside and from the outside. Accordingly, insulation for a house built from a bar or a log house must have comparable vapor permeability indicators - otherwise, the walls will gradually damp, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the outer finish and the insulation - without it, the latter will take in too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.
And the second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to fungus and microorganisms, requires the mandatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system with antiseptic compounds, moreover, in several layers.
Insulation of a private house can be divided into two types.
- Internalwhen a layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of residential premises and is covered with plasterboard, clapboard or any other finishing material.
- Outdoorwhen thermal insulation is located on the walls from the street side. From above, it is closed with a windproof film and an external finish, which can be boards, siding, corrugated board, artificial stone, etc.
Internal insulation in wooden houses is usually used when it becomes necessary to preserve the appearance of the building "like a tree". This usually applies to log cabins.
But at the same time, such a thermal insulation system has a number of disadvantages:
- reduction of the useful area of \u200b\u200bliving quarters;
- suboptimal dew point position, leading to the appearance of dampness and condensation;
- gradual destruction of walls from the outside, due to temperature changes.
Therefore, external insulation looks like a preferable option. This solution has the following advantages.
- Saving living space - the layer of insulation and the frame for it is located outside, which means that you save a few square meters inside the house.
- Dew point displacement outside the walls of the house - with good external thermal insulation along the entire thickness of the wall from a bar or log house, the temperature will be above zero. Consequently, condensation will not fall out on the wall from the inside, there will be less dampness, and the service life of the structures will be longer.
- Dew point shift and ventilated façade technology the risk of mold and rotting is significantly reduced.
- Walls of timber or logs can serve as interior decoration of the room, the original "texture" of the country cottage is preserved.
Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what materials are suitable for this.
General arrangement of external insulation of a wooden house
From the point of view of ensuring high-quality thermal insulation and preventing the appearance of moisture / condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferable way to protect the house from the cold is to equip a ventilated facade. Regardless of the material used, the structure is a "layer cake" consisting of the following elements:
- load-bearing wall of the house made of timber or logs;
- a frame for insulation, created from a bar or metal profile;
- a layer of insulating material and fasteners for it;
- windproof membrane film or windproof plate;
- lathing for external decoration;
- exterior decoration of the house.
At the same time, a ventilation gap is formed between the insulation and the external finish of the wooden house due to the crate, with the help of which an effective drainage of the flags is ensured and the risk of condensation and dampness is reduced.
Important! Separately, attention should be paid to such an issue as the presence of a vapor barrier film between a wooden wall and a heater. This film has long been the subject of controversy. Some masters argue that a vapor barrier between the wall and the insulation is needed, otherwise the thermal insulation material will quickly become damp due to the moisture coming from the house. Others hold the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will disrupt the removal of moisture from the walls of the house, condensation will appear between it and the insulation, and then mold. Considering both of these opinions, we can say that it is possible to install a film to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and a wooden wall.
Prices for dowels for insulation
Dowel umbrella
You can familiarize yourself with the materials used to insulate a wooden house from the outside from the table below and in the subsequent sections of the article.
Table. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the main materials.
| Material name | Short description |
|---|---|
| Rolls and slabs of fine fibers of basalt and other minerals. |
| Soft fibreboard made from milled wood. Does not contain glue or chemical binders. Possesses high density and vapor permeability. |
| Rounded porous cells of expanded polystyrene bonded into plates. |
| A kind of expanded polystyrene made using a slightly different technology. Differs in greater density and better thermal insulation properties. |
| Paper and cloth recycled into cellulose with anti-caking, anti-rot and anti-rodent additives. |
What material to choose for external insulation of a house made of wood
Before proceeding with the insulation of a wooden house, you need to decide what exactly to do, that is, what material. You can see the options available to most in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Let's consider them in a little more detail.
Mineral wool is a collection of many fibers obtained from melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wool, there is a large amount of air between the fibers, due to which the material acquires its heat-insulating qualities.
In favor of mineral wool as a heater for a wooden house, its following advantages speak:
- ease of installation;
- availability;
- not subject to combustion - mineral wool melts only at very high temperatures;
- vapor permeability at the wood level;
- excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.
But it should be borne in mind that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time greatly loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, from the outside, the insulation must be protected by a membrane windproof film.
A good option for insulating a wooden house is Izoplat soft fiber board. It is made "wet" from milled softwood fiber without the addition of glue or other chemical binders. Due to this, the plate works efficiently in humid and cold climates and does not delaminate from temperature extremes. The top of the board is treated with paraffin to protect it from atmospheric humidity. The Isoplat slab has a high vapor permeability, which means it prevents the walls from damping, the formation of fungus and mold. In terms of thermal insulation properties, 25 cm of material is comparable to 88 mm of solid wood. Izoplat also has a high sound insulation rate, which means that the house will become much quieter and more comfortable.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house with Isoplat plates
Other options for insulation for a wooden house are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers composed of cells glued together with many pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is made using a slightly different technology than conventional foam, due to which the material is denser and its cells are smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but at the same time retains its thermal insulation qualities.
Foam insulation is not the best option for a wooden house, but many resort to this solution due to the cheapness of thermal insulation material
However, both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam have a serious drawback, due to which their use as a heater for a wooden house is questionable - it is low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor penetrate these materials very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated with foam plastic, a humid environment will surely arise between the wall and the layer of thermal insulation, favorable for the development of fungi and other microorganisms and, as a result, for decay and damage of wood.
According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity generated in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason, high-quality insulation of buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of saving finances and comfort of living. One of the most popular heat insulators is (expanded polystyrene, PPS).
Another option for insulation is ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste converted into cellulose. But at the same time, it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. But at the same time, the method of laying it differs from mineral wool and foam - ecowool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface of wooden walls between the elements of the crate using special equipment. Then the material sets, dries and becomes a very durable layer of thermal insulation. However, you need to understand that without the help of a specialist, it will be impossible to perform insulation with ecowool.
Now that you know more about the materials used for thermal insulation of cottages made of timber or logs, let's start describing how the insulation process should be performed.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Video - Insulation of the walls of the house outside
Insulation of a wooden house Izoplatom
It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Izoplatom. The slab is a dense, but at the same time elastic material. It is enough just to press it against the wall and nail it in with a wide flat head. Isoplat reliably adheres to the base and does not allow the appearance of "cold bridges". A ventilated facade is installed on top of the slab. In addition, an Isoplat board of 25 mm or more can be covered with plaster. Warming in this way can be done independently without the involvement of specialists. This is the fastest, easiest and most reliable option for insulating a wooden house.
It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat plates
Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside with mineral wool
Let's consider how to perform one of the most popular ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside - using mineral wool slabs.
Calculation of the amount of insulation
Work begins with the calculation of the required amount of insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house are in the surfaces to be covered with mineral wool. This problem is solved according to the following algorithm.
Step 1. Calculate the height of the walls from the basement to the beginning of the pediment. If one part of the house is one-, and the second is two-story, perform the calculations for them separately.
Step 2. Determine the perimeter of the walls by counting their length.
Step 3. Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of \u200b\u200bthe openings from the resulting figure - this way you get the approximate surface area to be insulated. But the calculations do not end there.
Step 4. Using the formulas for determining the area of \u200b\u200ba triangle, calculate how many square meters are in your gables (if you are going to insulate them as well), and add this figure with the result of the calculations from the previous step.
Determination of the area of \u200b\u200ba wall, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment of a complex shape (which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)
Step 5. Determine which brand and size of mineral wool you choose. Divide the total area of \u200b\u200binsulation by the area of \u200b\u200beach individual slab of insulation. Then increase the result by 10-15% for the reserve. The figure you received is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. At the same time, keep in mind that several panels of insulation are sold in one package and, as a rule, it is written on them how many square meters this pack is designed for.
Mineral wool ROCKWOOL Light Butts. One such pack contains six slabs 50 mm thick and 600x800 mm in size. Their total area is 2.88 square meters.
Step 6. Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in the southern regions it is 50 mm, in the middle lane - 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes - 150 mm. If it will be impossible to carry out insulation in one layer in your case, double the number of mineral wool slabs from the previous operation.
Tool List
First of all, you will need something with which to cut and saw the materials for the lathing. If the frame for insulation is made of wood, this task will perfectly cope electric jigsaw with a matching blade. But in the case when the lathing is made of a metal profile, it is better to give preference scissors for metal.
Prices for popular models of jigsaws
Jigsaw
Important! The use of a grinder for cutting a profile on a frame for insulation is permissible, but undesirable - in the process of such sawing, the external anti-corrosion coating is damaged, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.
Next, you need a tool for screwing screws into wood or metal. Considering that the work on insulation is carried out with a house made of timber or logs, to complete this task it will be enough only screwdriver and a set of nozzles... Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not dangle under your feet and interfere.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the second is charging. Then they change places, and a person gets the opportunity to install the crate for insulation without stopping and losing time.
To fit some timber battens or to work with disc dowels, you will need hammer or rubber mallet.
One of the indispensable tools for construction work is a rock wool knife. You will need it to open packages of mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. Alternatively, you can use a construction knife with a retractable blade.
Fastening the windproof membrane film to the insulation crate requires construction stapler and set of staples.
The lathing for insulation should be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. It is almost impossible to achieve this by eye, so be sure to use building level and plumb line.
The very wall of a house made of a bar or a log house and all wooden elements of the lathing require the mandatory application of several layers of antiseptic that protects the materials from decay. For this you will need container and roller... But if you want to do everything quickly - use spray gun for paint.
Both before and during work on the insulation of a wooden house, the master may need to apply various marks, measure distances and create notes. These tasks are successfully completed with pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), tape measure and carpentry square.
Laying mineral wool on a wood frame
Let us first consider the most common option, when mineral wool is placed between the elements of the lathing made of wooden beams.
Step 1. Prepare the walls - remove all protruding elements from their surface, if any. These can be shutters, ebbs, decorative details, etc. Then treat the wall with an antiseptic and fire retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has completely dried.
Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to processing the corners and end parts of the logs - they are most susceptible to the influence of fungi and other microorganisms.
Step 2. Make a crate. For it, take the highest quality timber, in this case, products with a section of 30x30 mm are used. The wood should not show signs of fungus or rot. First, install the upper and lower bars, fix them with galvanized self-tapping screws (it is undesirable to use others due to corrosion). Then install the horizontal elements of the battens, between which the mineral wool of the first layer will be laid. The spacing between the beams should be about 5 mm less than the height of the insulation plate - this is necessary for a more tight fixing of the material and eliminating gaps.
Step 3. On top of the first "layer" of the lathing, fasten the second one, where the elements are located perpendicularly. In this case, they are mounted vertically. Also, do not forget to secure the bars around the perimeter of window and door openings.
Step 4. Unpack and prepare the rock wool slabs. If necessary, cut them into pieces for installation around openings and in other places where full-size insulation will not fit. Place the slabs between the elements of the battens of the first layer, make sure that they are tightly held there. Fix them with disc dowels. Then, according to the same principle, lay the plates of the second layer of insulation. It is advisable that they overlap the horizontal joints between the mineral wool sheets of the previous layer.
Prices for mineral wool
Step 5. Lay and secure the windproof membrane on top of the insulation. Butt its individual segments together with an overlap of about 10 cm (as a rule, there is a special marking on the film for this). Attach the membrane to the crate with a construction stapler, and close the joints with special adhesive tape. Pay special attention to the openings, which also need to be covered, when working with the windscreen.
Step 6. On top of the windproof film on the wooden elements of the lathing of the insulation, fasten the thick slats on which the exterior of the house will hold.
Step 7. Lay the exterior trim on the mounted slats. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other protruding features such as window and sheds, shutters, slopes, decorative details, and more.
Laying mineral wool on brackets
Now let's consider another option for outdoor insulation of the house. Here, mineral wool is not attached to the crate, but to metal brackets.
Step 1. Prepare the walls - treat them with an antiseptic and fire retardant. Then, unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how many you need.
Step 2. Secure the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since the house will subsequently be finished with siding, the fasteners are positioned with a step corresponding to the interval between the lathing elements for vinyl panels.
Important! For better sound and heat insulation, place small pieces of paronite under the part of the brackets that touches the wood.
Step 3. Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.
Step 4. Install rock wool slabs on the walls. To do this, put them on the brackets mounted in the previous stages of work. The holes for this can either be pushed through by the fasteners themselves, or cut with a knife.
Step 5. For better fixing, screw the disc dowels evenly over the area of \u200b\u200beach individual plate.
Step 6. Repeat the previous two steps for all walls and gables of the house.
Step 7. Lay a windproof film on top of the insulation layer. Fasten it with an overlap with disc dowels.
Step 8. Use a knife or scissors to cut the slots in the windscreen through which the ends of the brackets should pass.
Step 9. Prepare, cut and fasten on the brackets with self-tapping screws the vertical and horizontal elements of the lathing from the metal profile. In this case, it is very important to achieve the evenness of each individual post or beam using a plumb line and a building level.
Step 10. Install the external trim on the batten, equipped in the previous operation. In this case, these are vinyl siding panels.
With a competent approach to business, external insulation of a wooden house will provide you with coziness and comfort of living in a new place.
This type of work, such as insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside, is carried out for various reasons: when certain factors do not allow insulating the house from the outside, the building has a complex structure, the owner wants to leave the tree open so that you can admire its natural appearance. And in such a situation, the issue of materials is decided taking into account the requirements that the internal structure of the premises must satisfy.
Most often, few owners decide to insulate houses from the inside, for the reason that this step leads to a decrease in the living area of \u200b\u200bthe premises. Also, not everyone has sufficient skills in this matter, which is why they do not want to take risks, since in case of an error, this can disrupt the microclimate in the house.
However, there are situations when the insulation of the house from the inside cannot be avoided. Then the owner must do your bestso that this work is done very well. And for this he will have to solve many issues, including understanding how to insulate a wooden house from the inside. It is worth noting that in terms of device technology and installation, this procedure is almost similar to external insulation.
In many wooden houses, heat is often retained for a short time. The following factors can be called favorable to this:
- the installation of thermal insulation was carried out in violation of the requirements or the wrong material was used;
- gaps appeared between the beams, which resulted in non-observance of the rules for laying, shrinkage, etc.
To understand how a house is insulated from the inside, you need to know in what sequence the individual operations are performed. It is necessary here observe the following order:
Preparatory stage
Before proceeding with the insulation of the walls, you should take care of the availability necessary materials and tools:
- emulsion against insects and fungi;
- jute fiber;
- timber 10.0x5.0 cm, 5.0x5.0 cm;
- thermal insulation (mineral fiber);
- lining;
- saw;
- building level;
- roulette;
- construction stapler;
- chisel.
However, at the very beginning, you need to pay attention to the surface of the walls, removing dirt and dust from it. After that, the cleaned surface is covered with a special emulsion, which will help to avoid the appearance of insects. It is also treated with a composition that provides protection against decay.
During insulation from the inside of a wooden house, you need deal with internal wiring... It is often located on the surface, although it can be buried in decorative casings. In this case, all that needs to be done is to separate it from the wall.
After completing the cleaning and processing of the walls, it is time to caulk the cracks. If you have to deal with a log house in which no one lived, then due to shrinkage it is carried out again after a year. If we are talking about a wooden house, which began to be exploited immediately after the completion of construction, another caulking should be done after 2-3 years.
The most common material used for caulking is jute fiber. With this material, you need to eliminate the existing cracks using a wide chisel. It is possible that large gaps will be found during inspection of the walls. In such situations, it makes sense to use tape tow, which is sold in the form of rollers.
Regardless of which reference point was chosen for caulking the walls, all gaps must be completely sealed - meaning that there should be no free space for a new portion of fiber. Do not worry about jute coming out in certain places. You don't need to change anything here.
Installation of vapor barrier
For high-quality performance of the insulation of a wooden house from the inside, it should be borne in mind that wooden walls will be located between heat insulators... A logical consequence of this procedure will be an increase in humidity inside the house, due to which it will lose its breathing capacity, and a thermos effect will appear.
To solve the problem of high humidity is possible only by creating forced ventilation. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is no dampness, otherwise it will lead to rotting of the walls.
To avoid dampness in the house, even before laying the heat insulator, you need to install a vapor barrier film. It must be positioned in such a way that the rough side is directed towards the surface of the timber. In this case, the tree will not be afraid of humid air, the walls will still breathe, regulating the humidity level in the house.
Lathing and its installation on load-bearing walls
The main purpose of the lathing is in mineral fiber retention... The material for it is usually a wooden beam.
Sometimes it is allowed to use a metal profile for it, provided that the wall cladding from the inside will be performed using drywall.
In ordinary situations, the wooden walls retain their original appearance. Finishing work is carried out using lining or planken.
In order for the corners to have the correct shape, corner posts should be made before starting work. After the height of the room has been determined, they begin to create a workpiece from a bar - after cutting it should have a section of 5.0 × 10.0 cm.
Next, you need to measure its length and, based on the results obtained, cut off another similar block, which should have a cross section of 5.0 × 5.0 cm... A thin bar must be fixed on the edge of a 5.0 × 10.0 cm bar using self-tapping screws as fasteners. As a result, the structure should look like a rack made in the form of the letter "L".
There should be four such racks in total - one for each corner of the room. Their installation is carried out in the corner using self-tapping screws. To make sure that verticality is observed everywhere, use a level or self-tapping screw.
Further, between them, bars of 5.0x5.0 cm are installed at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. Even before proceeding with the insulation of the house from the inside, the prepared wood should be protected from rotting and burning by applying a special composition to it.
After the crate is ready, it's time for laying mineral wool... The roll needs to be unrolled, after which the strip of material is divided into parts in height. It is important that the strip of mineral wool exceeds the width of the distance by which the vertical bars are removed from each other by about 1-2 cm.
The prepared strip must be inserted between the bars, and anchors with round large caps are used to fix it to the wall. It is advisable to perform this work with an assistant: one will hold the cotton wool, and the other will fix it.
When the insulator is laid and securely fixed between the elements of the crate, an additional layer of film should be placed on top of the cotton wool, which will improve the quality of thermal insulation... The technology of its fastening is completely similar to the previous case: it must be positioned in such a way that the rough side faces the cotton wool. The useful properties of this film are not limited to vapor and waterproofing. Also, thanks to it, the penetration of small particles of mineral fibers into the air is excluded.
How to make a ventilation system correctly
I would like to repeat once again that the inevitable result of competently insulating a house from the inside is an increase in air humidity. In order to maintain a favorable microclimate in each room, care should be taken to create ventilation.
The use of direct external hoods should be avoided. It is best if all air ducts are combined into a single circuit through the attic. For air injection it is allowed to use any axial fancapable of providing low to medium power.
To keep the humidity in the room at an acceptable level, it is enough to run the fan for 20-30 minutes daily.
After laying the second layer of vapor barrier film, it's time for interior wall decoration. The installation of the film is carried out to the bars, for which a construction stapler is used. With the help of such a device, it is enough to simply fix a timber with a cross section of 3.0 × 4.0 cm on the film. Usually, a timber of this size is offered in any hardware store.
Subsequently, a lining is attached to the timber, which has a clearly defined structure. It is she who ends the insulation of the house from the inside. Its use will help preserve the original appearance of the interior.
It is also allowed to carry out finishing work using planken. Its installation is carried out horizontally. This material itself looks like medium-sized timber.
What material can be used to insulate walls?
Despite the fact that today there are many materials available for wall insulation, most often the owners use the following for this purpose: plaster and foam.
Home insulation with plaster
Among all the methods by which you can insulate a house from the inside, plaster seems to be the most preferable in terms of ease of implementation. First, the walls are prepared for work, for which the surface must be cleaned of old plaster. To increase the adhesive properties of the solution on the walls, you need to fix the fabric. It can also solve the problem of insulation, although if necessary, you can use special material, say, metallic profile.
The walls should be sprayed first. This is the name of a special solution used to eliminate cracks, which gives the wall a smoother and smoother look. During the application of the layer, it is important to observe the thickness, which should not exceed 9 mm. Subsequently, new layers will be applied to it.
After that, they begin to create a primer layer. If you want to insulate the walls according to all the rules, then this must be done. Please note that its thickness should not exceed 30 mm. This layer is necessary to level the surface of the walls. In the last place, apply an excerpt. When applying this layer, remember that its thickness should not exceed 4 mm. To create this solution, fine sand is used, which must be sieved in advance.
Thermal insulation from the inside with foam
Many owners often decide to insulate the walls of the house with a material such as foam. Before getting started, with prepare the slabs... It is important that they have a certain density and rigidity.
There are people who think granular styrofoam and styrofoam are the same thing. It's a delusion. It is not recommended to insulate walls with this material, since it tends to crumble. It also has a number of other disadvantages - moisture permeability and low rigidity.
But the foam is devoid of these disadvantages. Due to the fact that it is highly resistant to moisture and has low thermal conductivity, it is with this material that experts recommend to insulate wooden walls.
At the same time, this material does not cope well with the effects of temperature fluctuations. For this reason, before insulating walls, you should protect the foam from fire... You should also pay attention to the walls, which are cleaned of dirt and dust.
Before insulating the walls, it is necessary to remove all irregularities. The need for this is due to the fact that in the presence of a flat surface, it will be possible to ensure the tightness of the insulator to the surface. During insulation, you should pay great attention to cracks and gaps. If they are not eliminated and the walls begin to be insulated, they will subsequently lead to heat loss and drafts. An adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the walls. The slabs will be mounted to it.
After completing all the above operations, you can proceed to installing the foam on the wall. In order not to have to re-insulate the walls, you should wait for the time it takes for the plates to set to the surface. In order to increase the reliability of the fastening, it is allowed to strengthen it with plastic dowels with wide caps. If you do not do this and continue to insulate the walls, then in the future this will lead to displacement of the plates, deflections will occur at the attachment points, which will negatively affect the quality of insulation.
After laying the foam, they proceed to create a protective coating. Putty is most suitable for this purpose, since it will be much easier to insulate the walls. Already on the foam itself, a reinforced mesh based on fiberglass is installed, which is covered with a putty in two layers. Completing the insulation of the walls, plaster, paint is applied to them, or drywall is installed.
If possible, the foam can be replaced with extruded polystyrene foam. Its important advantage is the ability to save living space, which is associated with its small thickness.