Insulation of a wooden house inside: what and how is it better to do it? How to carry out wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside? Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

The owners think about the need to insulate a wooden house at low temperatures in the rooms in winter, the appearance of dampness and mold on the walls, and the high cost of heating.

Professional builders recommend insulating the walls of buildings from the outside, but there are situations when this is unacceptable. In such cases, thermal insulation is mounted indoors. Such work will be inexpensive. The article tells how to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside and outside.

Features of wall insulation in a wooden house

The wood used in construction has features that must be taken into account.

Wood is a vapor-permeable material; if used improperly, it becomes damp, becomes infected with a fungus, becomes covered with mold, and is destroyed by pests. Over time, the house settles in logs or timber cracks appear.

Old house made of logs, traces of aging of the outer walls are visible

A properly designed and installed insulation system minimizes the negative impact - otherwise, there is no need to talk about the durability of the building.

Comparison of thermal insulation methods

Insulation of wooden walls is possible from the inside and outside, each of the methods has advantages and disadvantages. The information collected in the table will help you make the right decision about the method of installing thermal insulation.

Advantages	disadvantages
Insulation inside the building
Preserving the appearance of the house	The outer parts of the walls are not protected from adverse weather conditions
Can be combined with major or cosmetic repairs	The useful area of rooms is reduced by the thickness of the insulating structure
Reconstruction does not depend on the time of year	The dew point moves inside the building, condensation may occur
No scaffolding required, one person can handle the job.	Loss of heat storage properties of wood
External thermal insulation
Usable area is saved	Insulation is protected by external decoration - the volume of construction work increases
The dew point from the wooden walls is shifted to the insulation layer - the walls do not collapse, there is no condensation in the rooms	Thermal insulation is carried out in the warm season
Insulation according to the ventilated facade method prevents the appearance of fungus and mold	Working at height will require strict adherence to safety measures. Can't work without helpers.

Before deciding on the method of carrying out the work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the options for insulating a wooden house from the inside or outside.

Material selection

To insulate the internal surfaces of the walls of the house and facades, many specialized heaters have been developed, each of which, however, requires proper use.

Insulation is supplied in the form of piece products or rolls.

When choosing, take into account:

price;
service life during which the performance characteristics and the geometric shape of the thermal insulation are maintained;
fire and sanitary safety (availability of certificates);
thermal conductivity characteristics;
resistance to mechanical damage and climatic conditions.

Polystyrene has long been successfully used for thermal insulation of buildings. The mechanical properties and size of the sheets allow you to insulate the house with your own hands, and if you have the skill, you can do without helpers. In thermal insulation, two types of sheet material made from polystyrene are used. They differ in the way they are made.

Expanded polystyrene is called polystyrene foam. Represents plates of white color. On the fault, balls of different sizes are visible.

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene)

Erudite polystyrene is most often light yellow or orange in color, it is denser than polystyrene foam.

Styrofoam

The material is well suited for warming a wooden house.

Advantages:

light weight - 98% of the volume of the product is occupied by air;
maintaining dimensional accuracy during long-term operation;
low thermal conductivity;
the possibility of mounting in different ways;
self-extinguishing within 4 seconds - without maintaining combustion with an open fire, the foam goes out.

Foam Disadvantages:

releases toxic substances when heated above 80 o C;

easily damaged by mechanical action;
quickly destroyed by exposure to sunlight;
low vapor permeability, which must be taken into account, and facade ventilation should be provided.

When buying a heater, it should be borne in mind that a material with a density of 15 kg / m 3 cannot bear a mechanical load, therefore it cannot be plastered. Styrofoam with a density of 25 kg / m 3 can be plastered and used for street insulation. With a mass of insulation of 35 kg / m 3 and above, you can walk on it and most often the material is used for thermal insulation of floors. It is not economically feasible to use foam with such a density for walls.

Extruded polystyrene

Insulation on sale is found under the names Penoplex, Penoplex. Sheets have grooves (selections) along the edges, which allows them to be stacked with an overlap. This eliminates additional sealing of seams. The density of the material is higher than that of polystyrene, any extruded polystyrene can be plastered.

Jointing seams of extruded polystyrene

As with the use of foam plastic for insulating wooden houses, ventilated facades are arranged.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is obtained by melting rocks. It is a fiber, between which there is a large amount of air, which provides thermal insulation properties. It is supplied to trade organizations in rolls or in the form of plates of standard sizes.

Material advantages:

ease of installation;
democratic price;
does not support combustion;
high rates of heat and sound insulation;
environmental friendliness;
high vapor permeability, commensurate with wood;

The main disadvantage is the ability of mineral wool to absorb water, while losing thermal insulation properties. Over time, the material shrinks and shrinks, and performance decreases.

To reduce the impact of water and moisture from the air, mineral wool is protected with a special waterproofing film.

glass wool

The structure of glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but inferior in performance and manufacturability. When exposed to water and moist air, it quickly loses its thermal insulation properties. Over several years, it becomes caked, which leads to a deterioration in performance. The installation of glass wool requires strict adherence to safety precautions - the smallest particles penetrate the lungs during breathing and enter the eyes, causing irritation of the mucous membranes.

Ecowool

The material is obtained from waste paper and cardboard during the processing of waste paper, as well as waste from the textile industry. Additives prevent rotting, caking, combustibility of ecowool, insects and rodents consider the material unattractive for eating and nesting.

The process of applying ecowool

Laying ecowool on your own will not work - the material is sprayed, mixed with water by special installations.

Isoplaat

Fibreboards from sawdust of coniferous trees are made without the use of chemical components.

Isoplatate sheets

The surface of the pressed sheets is treated with paraffin, which reduces the susceptibility to decay. The vapor permeability of the material is approximately equal to the characteristics of wood, which eliminates the accumulation of condensate between the wall and the insulation. It is applied to external and internal way of installation.

Foil insulation

The material is a foam substrate with a glued layer of aluminum foil. It is found on sale under the names Penofol, Isolon, Izodom, etc.

The material performs several functions:

thermal insulation;
soundproofing;
waterproofing;
wind protection.

Foil insulation

Products are resistant to chemical, thermal, biological effects and decay. Installation is reduced to fixing on a wooden surface with a stapler or with the help of nailed rails. When using foil materials, the insulation is nailed with a stapler, then the master has to decide how to sheathe the wall - drywall, distillation, plastic siding.

Warming process

Thermal insulation in a timber house will be of high quality if you follow simple rules and a sequence of manipulations. Deviation from the algorithm and incorrect alternation of layers will make the results of labor meaningless.

There are two methods: frame and frameless. They are applicable for outdoor and indoor use.

Frameless way

Without pre-fabrication of the frame, it is possible to insulate with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene, basalt mineral wool, Isolat - that is, materials with structural rigidity. The foil material also does not imply a frame structure, although it can be used as one of the layers of the "pie".

Before installing the insulation, the walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt. Cut off or grind irregularities - the insulation should fit snugly against the base.

The easiest and fastest way to insulate a house is to use Isolate slabs. They are simply nailed with wide-head nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. Of the tools you will need a hacksaw for cutting sheets to size, a hammer or a screwdriver. The surface of the slab is plastered or trimmed with siding. The lack of finishing will lead to the destruction of the sheets under the influence of climatic factors.

Polystyrene sheets are attached to a wooden base with self-tapping screws, using wide plastic washers. Under the influence of ultraviolet, the foam quickly loses its mechanical properties, therefore, with external insulation, plastering work will be required within 20-30 days.

At the first stage, cement-based adhesives are used. Use a special mounting adhesive for polystyrene foam or glue for ceramic tiles.

The surface of the foam is covered with a thin 1-1.5 mm layer of glue, a fiberglass mesh is applied and sunk into the applied solution. The adhesive composition is re-applied and leveled. After drying, the base is treated with a primer and plastered using any composition compatible with cement. For example, plaster bark beetle. The surface can be painted with facade paints.

Warming the house with basalt slabs

Similarly, insulation is carried out with basalt slabs.

Frame option

The frame method of installing insulation can be used for any materials, but it is mainly used for installing mineral wool. In the case of using foam, the grate can be used to fasten a finish on it, for example, siding.

Frame method of insulation

Installation sequence:

surface cleaning;
treatment of wooden walls with a bioprotective primer (antiseptic) and flame retardants (fire retardant impregnation);
frame installation;
installation of insulation between the crate;
installation of a windproof membrane or plate;
finishing installation.

The opinion is often expressed about the need to install a vapor barrier film between the beams of the walls and the insulation. Such a membrane can fulfill its purpose if the insulation is. For materials that are not vapor-permeable, such a layer is useless - moisture will accumulate at the “wood-insulation” border, accelerating the processes of decay.

For roll materials, the sequence may be different:

surface preparation, chemical treatment;
fixing brackets on the wall surface, on which the crate will be attached in the future;
fixing the roll material with dish-shaped dowels.
Cutting holes in mineral wool through which the brackets protrude outward;
Installation of a hydro-windproof membrane;
Fastening the finish coat to the frame.

By choosing the right heat-insulating material and following the above rules, you can qualitatively insulate a wooden house from a bar or boards. Comfort on winter evenings and lower energy bills will be a reward for hard work.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Warming a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is not a mandatory procedure: by and large, with high-quality external thermal insulation, you can do without it. On the other hand, we often strive to preserve the appearance of external walls made of logs and timber, so the heat-insulating contours willy-nilly have to be moved inside the room.

The process of thermal insulation itself is quite complicated and labor-intensive. That is why the work must begin with careful planning, since we will need a lot of time, effort, and money.

Approach 1. Interventional insulation

caulking slots

Starting the installation of thermal insulation circuits, it is worth assessing the condition of the walls themselves. As a rule, both in new houses and in structures that have already been in operation, it becomes necessary to seal the interventional seams. It is through these seams that a significant part of the heat flows passes, therefore, by blocking them, we will significantly raise the temperature in the room.

An additional plus is the absence of drafts, which also greatly reduce the level of comfort inside the house.

The simplest and therefore the most common way to seal the gaps between the crowns of a log or timber is caulking with various fibrous materials. I will describe the features of these materials in the table below:

Tool for caulking	Application in thermal insulation works
Jute	The material is supplied in the form of jute cloth or cords of different diameters, designed specifically for filling gaps. The raw material has a vegetable nature, while it is distinguished by good moisture resistance, significant strength and durability. The hygroscopicity of jute fiber provides the most effective sealing of even fairly large cavities between the crowns. However, it must be borne in mind that the jute cord practically does not expand after being driven into the slot, therefore caulking should be carried out after the completion of the shrinkage of the log house.
Moss	Raw material traditionally used for caulking wooden buildings. It provides significant hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation, but it is rather troublesome to use. In addition, finding high-quality moss in large volumes is also not an easy task.
Tape insulation	A linen or wadding based material that is commonly used for caulking under cladding. In terms of strength and moisture resistance, it is inferior to jute, but its price is several times lower. Most often, heat-insulating tapes are used for laying between the crowns directly during the assembly of the log house, but they can also be used for additional sealing.

The caulking process itself is simple. Below I will tell you how to caulk the gaps between the logs with your own hands:

We clean the gaps between the crowns from dust and debris.
If necessary (if signs of damage by fungi or bacteria are found), we treat the tree with antiseptic impregnation.
We put material for sealing in the gap.
We take a caulk - a metal or wooden spatula - and with the help of a hammer or mallet we hammer the material into the slot.

We repeat the operations until the gap is filled, and the tool begins to spring and bounce off the material.
After some time (we will give the bars time for a slight shrinkage), carefully cut off the excess material.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, but I must immediately warn you - this is not a quick matter. Especially if you caulk the walls of a large house alone.

Warm seam

An alternative to caulking is the technology of the so-called warm seam. At one time, choosing the best way to finish a wall, the lining of which was not planned, I settled on this option. The advantages of this technique can be considered not only the neat appearance of the wall after processing (indeed, the log house looks much more attractive), but also the preservation of vapor permeability, which is not always obtained with standard methods of insulation.

To equip a warm seam, it is necessary to purchase a length of sealing cord sufficient to process all the crowns. Cords can be used different:

acrylic;
latex;
polyethylene foam;
butyl rubber;
linen;
jute, etc.

In addition, to fill the gap, you will definitely need a sealant, which is more convenient to apply with a special gun.

The arrangement of warm seams inside with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

All gaps between the crowns are carefully cleaned, and deep cracks in the logs are embroidered to prevent spreading.
Then, a sealing cord is laid into each cavity to a depth of 20-30 mm. Since elastic materials are used, the cord is fixed in the gap due to its own elasticity, without additional fixation.
A layer of sealant is applied over the cord, which fills the gap to the front surface of the wall. If necessary, the sealant is smoothed down with a joint soaked in water, and its excess is removed from the surface with a wet rag.

After polymerization, the sealant with the cord forms a protective contour that effectively retains heat and prevents blowing, but at the same time maintains vapor permeability. Due to this, natural ventilation of the room and maintenance of optimal humidity conditions are provided.

Both caulking and the arrangement of a warm seam can be used even when the internal insulation of the log house is not planned. At the same time, these methods do not provide maximum energy savings, therefore, if you really want to save on heating and ensure that it will not be cold in a wooden house in winter, then you should think about installing an additional heat-insulating circuit.

Approach 2. Thermal insulation on the frame

Lathing installation

In this section, I will tell you how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside. If you understand how the heat-insulating circuit works, then there should be no problems, but still, before starting work, it is worth studying the optimal algorithm.

We start traditionally - with surface preparation and installation of a frame for insulation:

If the thermal insulation of the old house is being performed, then the walls must be cleaned of the remnants of the finish. Both wallpaper and dilapidated lining under a layer of insulation will not save us a single extra degree, but they will serve as an excellent substrate for the development of bacteria and fungi.
After that, we impregnate the walls with a deep penetration antiseptic. It’s clear why: it will be warm and relatively humid under the skin, so if we don’t take care of comprehensive biosecurity, then the appearance of fungi will become a matter of time. And for a very short time.

Since we have taken up the impregnation of the walls, at the same time we can treat them with flame retardants. Of course, reducing the combustibility of wood will not protect us from fire by 100%, but this is exactly the situation when slowing down combustion for a few minutes can be decisive.

The next step is the installation of the membrane. Its main task is to protect the heat-insulating material from moisture in contact with wood. An important aspect: polyethylene cannot be used here, since it completely blocks the exit of water vapor through the wall to the outside, so either we take a diffuse membrane with a good vapor permeability index, or we refuse this layer altogether and hope that we have sealed the gaps between the crowns well.

Next is the crate. It can also be made from a metal profile, but I prefer to work with wood. Bars with a cross section of 30x30 to 50x50 mm are installed either directly on the wall or on steel brackets, forming a gap, the thickness of which corresponds to the thickness of the insulation.
Under the base of each metal bracket, it is worth laying either a piece of roofing material or a paronite gasket - in order to avoid the formation of a cold bridge.

Installation of insulation and cladding

The next step is the installation of thermal insulation material. Many use foam to save money, but it seems to me that the game is not worth the candle. Yes, we will save a significant part of the heat with this material, but due to the low (almost zero) vapor permeability, the natural ventilation of the walls will be disturbed. As a result, the humidity in the room will increase, and in order to normalize it, we will have to ventilate the rooms more often, losing the stored heat.

Therefore, before insulating a wooden house with my own hands from the inside, I considered two options - mineral wool and ecowool (loose cellulose insulation). I settled on mineral wool, which I mounted in this way:

material installed in the cells of the crate. I initially made the frame for the insulation in accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool boards, so I almost did not have to spend time and effort on trimming.

A vapor barrier membrane was fixed on top of the mineral wool layer. Both glassine and polyethylene can be used here, but I prefer membrane materials.
Then I installed a counter-lattice of 20x40 mm rails. I attached the bars of the counter-lattice to the supporting elements of the frame in such a way that there was an air gap of 30-50 mm between the insulation and the skin for ventilation.

Laid hidden wiring in the ventilation gap. At the same time, all the wires were packed in a metal hose with a wall thickness that completely eliminates burnout.

Do not use standard plastic corrugation - the risk of fire is too great.

I used pine as a sheathing, but you can use a blockhouse, a false beam, and even materials based on MDF.
In principle, the instruction also allows for the lining of an insulated log wall with drywall, followed by puttying and finishing, but I don’t like this option. And really, why bother with the construction of a wooden house in order to get a result after all the work that can be reproduced in a typical panel high-rise building?

Ecowool is a good alternative to mineral fiber insulation, but I was stopped by the fact that it is necessary to involve specialists with sophisticated equipment to perform thermal insulation work. However, the money would have come out about the same. So this option is definitely worth considering:

For insulation with ecowool, we sheathe the frame with plywood about 10 - 15 mm thick.
We leave holes in the plywood sheathing for filling with heat-insulating material.

The hose from the compressor with cellulose fiber is inserted into the hole in the casing, after which the insulation under pressure enters the closed cavity.
Filling is carried out in layers to avoid the formation of air pockets that reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

Underground space as a separate area

The internal thermal insulation of a wooden house also includes the insulation of the underground space. To the question of whether it is possible not to insulate the floor, I would give a positive answer only in one case: if there is a basement with high-quality thermal insulation below. In all other cases, and especially if the floor is laid on the ground, you cannot do without an additional contour.

The general algorithm is:

We carefully compact the soil under the floor, after which we fill up a layer of gravel or a sand-gravel mixture up to 30 cm thick.
On top of the gravel we form a bed of expanded clay: the thicker the layer, the better.

Instead of expanded clay, you can use slab heat-insulating materials - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. To lay them from below, we attach a plywood hemming layer to the lags, on which we place the insulation.
We lay a waterproofing material on top of the insulated layer: foil film, glassine, paronite, etc. waterproofing should cover all logs, leaving only 5-10 cm free from each edge for moisture vapor to escape from the wood.

From above we lay a rough flooring from boards or thick plywood. There should also be an air gap between the flooring and the insulation for natural ventilation.

Reference materials for budgeting

As you can see from the description, we have a fairly large-scale project ahead of us. That is why it is worth approaching it with all responsibility, and most importantly, drawing up a fairly detailed budget.

The reference materials given in the table will help you with this:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER 1200x600x100 mm	pack of 4	1400 -1700
Insulation ROCKWOOL 800x600x50 mm	pack of 4	650 — 800
Jute seal 10 cm	m.	8 — 10
Butyl rubber cord 8 mm	m.	12 -16
Warm Seam Sealant	3 kg	1400 -1600
Moss for caulking	bag 10 kg	300 — 450
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 — 1700
Vapor barrier film	70 m2	670 — 750
Bituminous mastic	20 kg	350 — 500
Universal antiseptic	5 l	450 — 600
Fire bioprotective composition Woodmaster KSD	10 l	550 — 600
Impregnation Pinotex Impra	10 l	4800 -5200
Polyfoam PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Wooden beam for the frame, 6 m	PCS.	90 – 180
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 — 1200
Clapboard for wall cladding	1 m2	250 – 400
Drywall moisture resistant	sheet	300 — 450

Conclusion

Choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the inside is quite simple - not so many materials can be used for this purpose. It is much more difficult to properly mount thermal insulation circuits, and the tips above will help you here, as well as the informative video in this article. At the same time, of course, you can contact me with any questions: in the comments to the article, I will try to answer them as fully and reasonably as possible.

September 7, 2016

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Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is carried out in order to make efficient energy consumption. Today, this topic is more relevant than ever, because the resources are very expensive. Yes, and you can expect a long life for a wooden house, which means that it is necessary that the building has an adequate temperature regime and proper ventilation.

Today, the insulation of wooden walls from the inside is within the power and wallet of everyone. But why do many people think that it is bad and inefficient?

According to the mind, it is necessary to insulate the house from the outside, so you transfer the dew point outside, it will fall on the insulation or on the outer wall.

This will ensure that there will be no condensation in the room. Also, builders advise complex insulation.

But the topic of this article is internal insulation. In practice, it constantly happens that only the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house becomes acceptable for various reasons. This can happen if the house has already been rebuilt and has a beautiful facade, which is not appropriate to redo at the moment.

You may not want to cover the logs that make up the house, because it looks much better. In general, for a number of reasons, the insulation of the internal walls of a wooden house has always been and will always be in demand. So, you need to learn how to perform it correctly in order to create a microclimate comfortable for people and materials in the house, while spending a minimum of money and time.

The components of success are the right choice of material and thorough adherence to technology.

Ideally, before insulating a wooden house from the inside, it is necessary to make engineering calculations. This stage should precede all work on the arrangement, reconstruction or construction of residential buildings. Thermal engineering calculation is done in order to determine where the dew point will be. Because having installed a heater, you can be sure that it will insulate, but you can protect your house from moisture only if you correctly calculate the location of the desired point.

The basic principle is that it should not be in a heater and not indoors. The mistake will become fatal: the rooms will become warm, but damp, as a result, the insulation will begin to gain moisture, the walls may rot, all this will lead to the appearance of mold and insects.

Therefore, calculate everything yourself or invite a specialist - but be sure to make sure that even in severe frost the dew point will be outside!

Right stuff

When the theoretical part is completed, it's time to move on to practice. And for this, first of all, you need to choose the right insulation.

Requirements for it:

Low thermal conductivity;
Compliance with fire safety requirements;
Strength and durability;
Environmental friendliness, safety.

The way in which we will insulate the house directly depends on the material chosen.

Process and Technology

Now that you have decided how best to insulate your house, let's move on to the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. To do this, it is important to thoroughly comply with the technology.

If the insulation of the walls of the house is carried out with the organization of an air gap, fasten the crate to the rails on the walls, or directly to the wall if you do not have an air gap. Use screws of the required length.

After that, a heater is mounted directly on the wall to be insulated. It is laid in the cells of the crate. If you use sheets, then go from the bottom up, if you use rolls, then from the top down. A good and correct way to lay mineral wool slabs is to do it by surprise. Reinforce everything with dowels.
Waterproofing completes the internal insulation of the walls. To organize it, use a vapor-tight membrane: steam from the insulation will come out without problems, and the barrier will be insurmountable for water. The film is different on both sides, put its rough side to the insulation so that it is smooth on the outside. Make joints with an overlap of 10 cm, fasten the film with a stapler.

In order to hide the traces of insulation of the house from the inside, finishing is necessary: this is lining, drywall, painting, wallpapering or plastering - it's up to you. The main thing is that now it will be warm in your house, but there will be no place for dampness and dangerous moisture!

Wood has been used in construction since ancient times. This material is valued for its affordability and thermal conductivity. A house made of timber requires proper care, then it will always be comfortable in it. Many have noticed that two or three years after construction, the house becomes noticeably colder. This is due to the fact that all the walls of the building are in constant motion.

The position of the bars changes slightly and cracks appear along the seams, even correctly installed windows begin to let in drafts over time. Construction flaws can also manifest themselves. In fact, fixing all these reasons is not difficult even with your own hands. If you do not want to spoil the appearance of the house, we will tell you how to insulate a log house from the inside.

Why is it cold inside a wooden house:

Walls. Small gaps in the seams of a wooden house are the most common reason for the lack of heat in the premises.
Windows and doors. Eternal sources of drafts and heat losses in any home.
Ceiling. From the course of physics it is known that warm air rises. If the upper part of the house from the timber is not sufficiently insulated, the heat simply escapes.
Floor of the first floor. In any house, it has a large area. Cold from the ground can greatly cool the air in the house.

Consider in order what you can do with your own hands with each of these reasons.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house

First, the walls of the house need to be caulked. For this, a special tool is used - a caulk. If it is not available, a hard spatula or a wide screwdriver is used. Tow, hemp, felt or jute rope are used as insulation. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly follow the sequence of actions.

You need to start caulking from the bottom seam around the entire perimeter of the house, only then move on to the next one.

The insulation must be driven into the cracks of the timber as densely and deeply as possible. You need to understand that after finishing work, the ceiling height will increase by several centimeters. Therefore, if you caulk each part of the house separately, one of the walls may collapse - the timber will simply pop out of the groove. Another way is to apply acrylic or silicone sealant to the joint of the timber.

If you are not satisfied with the result achieved, experts advise to additionally insulate the walls with thermal insulation. To do this, a guide beam is vertically attached to the wall, its height must be equal to the thickness of the insulating material. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Insulation is laid tightly between the guides, without gaps. For this purpose, any sheet material is suitable. After that, it remains only to make decorative wall cladding.

Windows and doors - how to get rid of the cold

The two main causes of cold from front doors and windows are drafts and insufficient insulation. Very often, cold from openings is confused with drafts. To determine the cause of a heat leak, you just need to make sure that the doors and windows are actually blowing or not. To do this, you need to hold a burning lighter at a short distance along the perimeter of the frame and sashes.

If the draft comes from the sashes, you need to seal all joints. To do this, it will be enough to stick a silicone seal with your own hands. You can also use foam rubber, but it has a short service life. You can also glue the windows with construction tape for the winter.

If it seeps through the perimeter of the frame, it is necessary to remove the trim and window sill to get to the opening between the wall and the frame. Then the opening is glued with waterproofing and insulated. As thermal insulation, you can use any rolled insulation or mounting foam. From above, the insulation must be pasted over with aluminum or reinforced tape, after which the platbands are put in place.

If it feels cold from the door, but there is no draft, you need to check the thermal insulation of the door. To do this, experts advise simply knocking on the canvas. The hollow structure from the inside will have to be changed. A window with single glazing can freeze in the cold season. In this case, you will have to install new windows.

Insulation of the roof and ceiling of a wooden house

Many do not consider heat loss through the roof and ceiling significant. In fact, there are often gaps through which the log house simply heats the street. Also, the surface of the roof can heat up from poor thermal insulation of the ceiling. By getting rid of these losses, you can save up to 60% of heating costs.

Before you begin to insulate the upper part of the wooden house, you should seal the entire seam of the upper beam of the wall and the roof structure.

If the attic in the house is non-residential, it is very simple to insulate the ceiling with your own hands. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation of about forty centimeters is laid there. You need to understand that the insulation for the ceiling should be light. Typically, sawdust, polystyrene, mineral wool and other lightweight materials are used for this purpose.

If the ceiling is a roof vault, insulation is a little more difficult. To begin with, the entire surface of the roof from the inside must be covered with a layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not get on the insulation. Roof insulation is done in two ways:

Sheet insulation is laid tightly to each other. In this case, special attention should be paid to the absence of gaps between the sheets, because between them the heat will still go out.
Sheet insulation is laid from top to bottom with an overlap. This is done for additional protection against moisture, it will simply drain over the sheets of thermal insulation.

After that, it remains to ennoble the surface with decorative trim. For this purpose, lining is perfect.

Solving the cold floor problem

Home heating will not work efficiently if the house has cold floors. They cool the room and do not allow the air to warm up.

The wooden floor is insulated very simply, for this it is necessary to remove the floor upholstery. In order not to confuse the order in which the boards lay, it is better to mark them in advance. This will save a lot of time during assembly. Then the entire surface between the lags is covered with waterproofing so that the insulation does not pick up moisture from the soil.

The heat-insulating material is laid on it in such a way that there are no slightest cracks over the entire surface of the floor. Insulation is used by anyone who is not afraid of moisture. On top, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, because when cleaning the premises, water can get there and accumulate inside. After that, the floor boards will need to be laid in the reverse order.

The cement floor is insulated in two ways. If the height of the premises allows, logs made of wooden beams are laid on the floor. Between them, a heater is laid, which is closed with waterproofing from above. Then the floor is upholstered with a board.

If the ceiling height does not allow raising the floor level, you need to remove the cement screed and remove the floor backfill by about half a meter. After that, the pit is waterproofed and the insulation is filled up. Usually expanded clay is used for this. A layer of foam or other dense material is laid on top of it. A new screed is made on top.

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Features of external insulation

External insulation, in contrast to the internal method, involves the preservation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house space. It also contributes to the formation of condensate in the ventilated area. As a result, in winter, the log house does not lend itself to freezing, and in the summer season it does not rot.

But in order to achieve such an effect, the insulation of the facade of a wooden house requires compliance with the following rules:

all work should be carried out in dry weather, when there is no dampness on the walls;
thermal insulation is carried out on a clean repaired area that does not contain moss and moldy areas;
use a vapor and waterproofing layer on both sides of the insulating material;
how to insulate a wooden house is decided by the owner himself, but it is worth focusing on vapor-permeable products;
arrange a ventilated space between the finishing and insulating elements.

Before starting the insulation of the walls, it is worth checking their surface for the presence of bark beetles, which can subsequently destroy the surface of a wooden house both outside and inside. Carrying out work on the insulation of an old dwelling, it is possible to obtain additional heat insulation. You can also give an old wooden house a new look and reduce heating costs.

Material Options

Saving heat inside the home and the duration of the operation of the house largely depend on the choice of material. The market for building materials and materials offers a wide range of products to insulate walls.

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

The use of such material on the outer walls of a wooden house is due to its advantages:

strength;
does not give in to rotting and influence of water;
favors the preservation of heat, not reacting to temperature changes;
ease of installation;
incombustibility;
long service life.

Insulation of the house with foam plastic also has several disadvantages:

they can insulate dwellings from a bar when the walls are even, and the insulation of a log house is complicated due to the construction of a ventilated facade;
high price of products;
low permeability for air masses, which leads to the effect of a "greenhouse";
rodents love it.

This material is better for floor insulation in a log cabin or attic floor. Water resistance does not imply the use of a waterproofing layer in this case. But there is an exception if you want to apply material for a wooden floor in a bathroom or kitchen.

A variety of expanded polystyrene is its sprayed form, which allows you to quickly insulate the desired surface. When using sprayed products, it is worth noting that after prolonged use they are difficult to separate from the surface of the walls.

Therefore, repairing the insulated area will not work. But such materials are used to keep warm in a house with an old floor. In this case, the material is applied without dismantling the floors. Moreover, the composition applied on top additionally strengthens the base.

Styrofoam

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam, if you want to preserve the property of wood to conduct air. In this case, this will not work. After all, this type of insulation is characterized by the absence of air transmission.

And also other negative consequences are possible if you want to insulate the facade of a wooden house with this material:

increases the likelihood of fire due to the flammability of the foam elements;
wall insulation from the outside can be carried out for a long time and of poor quality, since the foam does not have high strength;
additional waterproofing of the insulating material will be required.

Styrofoam consists of small balls resistant to water. But between them there are gaps that can accumulate water. Subsequently, the water freezes and expands, causing the foam boards to crumble.

Therefore, it is better not to use polystyrene on the outside of the log structure. But with the help of it you can insulate the floor in a wooden house. More foam products are attached to the attic floors of wooden houses and other buildings.

Warming a wooden house with mineral wool is considered a popular way. This is justified by its advantages:

the insulation scheme is easy to install;
low cost;
the ability to remove water vapor;
duration of operation;
does not deform under temperature changes;
incombustibility.

When the owner decides to insulate an old wooden house, it is worth considering that mineral wool quickly absorbs moisture. This can lead to rapid decay of a building that is no longer new. Therefore, it is important to use waterproofing agents.

Mineral wool has several varieties: slag, stone, glass wool, ecowool. They differ in technical characteristics and manufacturing methods. But they are considered acceptable for thermal insulation of walls.

When installing mineral wool, work should be carried out using gloves and goggles, as the material causes irritation. Also, inhalation should be avoided.

The use of ecowool when insulating a wooden house from the outside, unlike other types of wadded material, helps to maintain thermal insulation when water enters. This is based on the property of ecowool to absorb moisture and then give it away.

In order to properly insulate with such a product, special installations should be used for uniform distribution. But this technology is expensive.

Thus, there is an answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate a wooden house. This is to apply mineral wool. After all, this material has good vapor permeability, has a small weight and allows the tree to "breathe".

The material is considered easy to install, since anyone can insulate a wooden house from the outside with the help of such a product. But before insulating a wooden house, you need to purchase insulation and prepare a structure from the outside for its location.

Warming technology

The procedure for wall insulation includes several stages. It is important to go through all the steps and follow the recommendations to obtain high-quality insulation. Indeed, in the future, the log house should retain heat for a long time.

Surface preparation

The use of mineral wool outside involves preliminary cleaning of the surface and cutting off protruding areas. The next step is to close holes, gaps, cracks with foam. After the applied foam has dried, remove the remnants of the product with a knife. After that, you need to treat the outer surface with special compounds. These are flame retardants and antiseptics.

When choosing special processing compounds, it is necessary to take into account the ability to penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. But at the same time, the composition should not cover the pores intended for the passage of air.

All preliminary preparation operations are carried out in dry weather.

Laying a vapor barrier

The vapor barrier layer is designed to self-regulate the microclimate of the tree and simultaneously protect it from water. How to properly lay this layer. The first step is to choose the right product.

The following vapor barrier products are sold on the market:

isospan;
polyethylene;
ruberoid.

When choosing, it must be borne in mind that the product must pass air so that the tree does not succumb to decay. Therefore, it is better not to use polyethylene products.

It is possible to mount the vapor barrier material on top of the wall surface using stapler brackets. But in the presence of uneven surfaces, it is better to equip the crate on which the vapor barrier will be attached. And also the constructed structure creates a ventilation space. For the construction, slats with a minimum width of 2 cm are selected. The gap between the slats is 1 m.

After arranging the crate, a vapor barrier is laid, fixed with a stapler. The joints of the material are sealed with adhesive tape.

Material laying

Mineral wool is laid on the vapor barrier layer. But first, it is necessary to make a frame crate for it. Reiki is selected with a size of 40x100 mm. The basic rule of the frame is that the width of the groove formed should be less than the width of the plate used (approximately 15 mm).

When choosing metal slats or wooden bars, it is better to choose the latter. This is due to the fact that the wooden house is insulated. To fasten the frame, use nails to ensure the “walking” of the tree.

After arranging the frame, the stage of laying the cotton material begins:

Mineral wool is available in the form of slabs or rolls. The rolled material is cut with a knife into the necessary elements.
When laying on even surfaces, mineral wool does not need to be fixed from above. If the plates are mounted on sloping sections or recesses, then the material is fixed with anchor nails.
Laying is done from the bottom up.
When laying two layers of insulation, the second layer should be placed offset, avoiding overlapping joints.

In case of improper installation, the material can be easily dismantled.

Location of waterproofing

The waterproofing layer is designed to prevent moisture from entering the structure. For this, a special windproof membrane is selected. The use of polyethylene film is impractical due to the fact that it will allow water to accumulate in the insulation.

Please note: waterproofing materials are laid in accordance with the instructions.

The membrane is attached with a stapler or nails. Docking areas are sealed with adhesive tape. A counter-lattice is superimposed on top of the membrane, which makes it possible to achieve air ventilation. The width between the waterproofing and the facade to be installed is at least 5 cm.

All work on the insulation of the material is completed by the installation of a facing coating. Mineral wool is suitable for outside insulation under siding, lining or brick. In the case of repairs, the removal and renewal of the material is easy.

Other insulation materials can be used on the basement or foundation, which is located above the ground.

Now many will know how to insulate the facade of the house. With a competent approach, the warmth of a wooden house will not come out, but will remain inside. Moreover, all the work can be done by hand.

heatplota.guru

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside and outside (differences)

The main difference between these two methods of insulation is, in fact, on which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will insulation be carried out, and, as a result, how effective it will be in terms of retaining heat and benefits for the entire structure.

Insulation from the inside is resorted to by owners and owners of wooden houses who do not want to close the unique, beautiful facades of the building, made by original masonry methods, or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, while the appearance of the building will not change.

The goal of outdoor insulation is maximum efficiency.. It involves the creation of an insulating structure on the outside of the load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and the surrounding weather conditions.

External wall insulation remains a fairly common phenomenon, often used in construction and repair. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:

all temperature fluctuations all the vagaries of the weather take on a layer of insulation and finishes, respectively, the service life of the wooden elements of the house is significantly increased;
the ability to insulate a long-built house. Often, such houses are purchased ready-made in holiday villages along with plots, and it is financially difficult to immediately rebuild a new house .;
the interior of the house remains intact, which is convenient in terms of living and organizing life;
the opportunity to choose a new look for the house due to the finishing of the facade

pie wall

In other words - composition and sequence of all elements of insulation. When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called "pie" can be represented as follows:

bearing wall;
crate;
insulation - mineral wool;
vapor barrier film;
finishing layer.

What heater to choose?

When choosing a heater for the walls of the house, first of all should be paid attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while keeping warm.

The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

Of the materials for insulation can be distinguished:

interventional heaters used at the construction stage;
and heaters used for insulation from the outside or inside.

The interventional insulation is used in the laying of the interventional joints. Such heaters are synthetic and natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are linen and jute fiber insulation.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or from the inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80 -120 kg / m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam as an element of the pie, since these materials are vapor and moisture resistant and prevent air exchange between the house and the external environment.

Materials such as:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
penoplex;
penofol;
penoizol;
polyurethane foam.

Sealing seams and joints of forming elements

This method is an internal wall insulation, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs. In this case, various sealants are used (silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient in that it is easy to do with your own hands and does not require special skills, it does not prevent steam from escaping and is the most cost-effective.

Technically carried out as follows:

the edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
a layer of sealant is applied on top;
the sealant is smoothed with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
sealant residues are removed with a rag.

Sheathing preparation and installation

When installing the crate, it should be repelled from the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be the same. The most commonly chosen beam 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

The crate is mounted transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for tight entry. The height of the crate is individual for individual rooms.

In parallel with the laying of logs, a crate is also similarly mounted (the so-called "counter-lattice"). For the installation of the crate, you should choose high-quality material without traces of decay. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house with mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, slag fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.

Such material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and sound insulation, environmentally friendly. However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is able to accumulate water.

For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor barriers are required.

Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the crate made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm.. Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - best of all foil, or plumbing tape.

Step by step installation:

the required number of mineral wool mats is prepared, based on the calculations of the quadrature of the walls of the premises;
mineral wool is tightly inserted between the battens of the crate;
top mats are cut to height;
gaps and seams between mats are glued with mounting tape.

Some builders use polystyrene foam when insulating walls indoors. However, the main selection criterion in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, foam plastic does not have the property of passing steam, and the result of its use in the absence of the correct organization of vapor and waterproofing will be the so-called " the greenhouse effect» and the inevitable development of mold in rooms with similar walls.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls

Warming of wooden houses begins with waterproofing. This is the layer of a special film closest to the load-bearing walls, the main task of which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from wetting and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.

Waterproofing is one of the most important moments in wall insulation.

In the process of work, anti-condensate membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymeric multilayer films, and vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness. To do this, the film is overlapped, and nailed with a stapler and staples, and the seams are glued with mounting tape.

Fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.

Conclusion

Thus, responsibly organized wall insulation of a log house can play a big role in the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss, as well as protect the load-bearing elements of the structure from all kinds of weather conditions.

However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. How well it will be carried out depends on the life of your home.

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Approach 1. Interventional insulation

caulking slots

An additional plus is the absence of drafts, which also greatly reduce the level of comfort inside the house.

Tool for caulking	Application in thermal insulation works
Jute	The material is supplied in the form of jute cloth or cords of different diameters, designed specifically for filling gaps. The raw material has a vegetable nature, while it is distinguished by good moisture resistance, significant strength and durability. The hygroscopicity of jute fiber provides the most effective sealing of even fairly large cavities between the crowns. However, it must be borne in mind that the jute cord practically does not expand after being driven into the slot, therefore caulking should be carried out after the completion of the shrinkage of the log house.
Moss	Raw material traditionally used for caulking wooden buildings. It provides significant hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation, but it is rather troublesome to use. In addition, finding high-quality moss in large volumes is also not an easy task.
Tape insulation	A linen or wadding based material that is commonly used for caulking under cladding. In terms of strength and moisture resistance, it is inferior to jute, but its price is several times lower. Most often, heat-insulating tapes are used for laying between the crowns directly during the assembly of the log house, but they can also be used for additional sealing.

The caulking process itself is simple. Below I will tell you how to caulk the gaps between the logs with your own hands:

We clean the gaps between the crowns from dust and debris.
If necessary (if signs of damage by fungi or bacteria are found), we treat the tree with antiseptic impregnation.
We put material for sealing in the gap.
We take a caulk - a metal or wooden spatula - and with the help of a hammer or mallet we hammer the material into the slot.

We repeat the operations until the gap is filled, and the tool begins to spring and bounce off the material.
After some time (we will give the bars time for a slight shrinkage), carefully cut off the excess material.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, but I must immediately warn you - this is not a quick matter. Especially if you caulk the walls of a large house alone.

Warm seam

To equip a warm seam, it is necessary to purchase a length of sealing cord sufficient to process all the crowns. Cords can be used different:

acrylic;
latex;
polyethylene foam;
butyl rubber;
linen;
jute, etc.

In addition, to fill the gap, you will definitely need a sealant, which is more convenient to apply with a special gun.

The arrangement of warm seams inside with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

All gaps between the crowns are carefully cleaned, and deep cracks in the logs are embroidered to prevent spreading.
Then, a sealing cord is laid into each cavity to a depth of 20-30 mm. Since elastic materials are used, the cord is fixed in the gap due to its own elasticity, without additional fixation.
A layer of sealant is applied over the cord, which fills the gap to the front surface of the wall. If necessary, the sealant is smoothed down with a joint soaked in water, and its excess is removed from the surface with a wet rag.

Approach 2. Thermal insulation on the frame

Lathing installation

We start traditionally - with surface preparation and installation of a frame for insulation:

If the thermal insulation of the old house is being performed, then the walls must be cleaned of the remnants of the finish. Both wallpaper and dilapidated lining under a layer of insulation will not save us a single extra degree, but they will serve as an excellent substrate for the development of bacteria and fungi.
After that, we impregnate the walls with a deep penetration antiseptic. It’s clear why: it will be warm and relatively humid under the skin, so if we don’t take care of comprehensive biosecurity, then the appearance of fungi will become a matter of time. And for a very short time.

Since we have taken up the impregnation of the walls, at the same time we can treat them with flame retardants. Of course, reducing the combustibility of wood will not protect us from fire by 100%, but this is exactly the situation when slowing down combustion for a few minutes can be decisive.

The next step is the installation of the membrane. Its main task is to protect the heat-insulating material from moisture in contact with wood. An important aspect: polyethylene cannot be used here, since it completely blocks the exit of water vapor through the wall to the outside, so either we take a diffuse membrane with a good vapor permeability index, or we refuse this layer altogether and hope that we have sealed the gaps between the crowns well.

Next is the crate. It can also be made from a metal profile, but I prefer to work with wood. Bars with a cross section of 30x30 to 50x50 mm are installed either directly on the wall or on steel brackets, forming a gap, the thickness of which corresponds to the thickness of the insulation.
Under the base of each metal bracket, it is worth laying either a piece of roofing material or a paronite gasket - in order to avoid the formation of a cold bridge.

Installation of insulation and cladding

Panels of material installed in the cells of the crate. I initially made the frame for the insulation in accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool boards, so I almost did not have to spend time and effort on trimming.

A vapor barrier membrane was fixed on top of the mineral wool layer. Both glassine and polyethylene can be used here, but I prefer membrane materials.
Then I installed a counter-lattice of 20x40 mm rails. I attached the bars of the counter-lattice to the supporting elements of the frame in such a way that there was an air gap of 30-50 mm between the insulation and the skin for ventilation.

Laid hidden wiring in the ventilation gap. At the same time, all the wires were packed in a metal hose with a wall thickness that completely eliminates burnout.

Do not use standard plastic corrugation - the risk of fire is too great.

I used pine lining as cladding, but you can use blockhouse, false timber, and even MDF-based materials.
In principle, the instruction also allows for the lining of an insulated log wall with drywall, followed by puttying and finishing, but I don’t like this option. And really, why bother with the construction of a wooden house in order to get a result after all the work that can be reproduced in a typical panel high-rise building?

For insulation with ecowool, we sheathe the frame with plywood about 10 - 15 mm thick.
We leave holes in the plywood sheathing for filling with heat-insulating material.

The hose from the compressor with cellulose fiber is inserted into the hole in the casing, after which the insulation under pressure enters the closed cavity.
Filling is carried out in layers to avoid the formation of air pockets that reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

Underground space as a separate area

The general algorithm is:

We carefully compact the soil under the floor, after which we fill up a layer of gravel or a sand-gravel mixture up to 30 cm thick.
On top of the gravel we form a bed of expanded clay: the thicker the layer, the better.

Instead of expanded clay, you can use slab heat-insulating materials - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. To lay them from below, we attach a plywood hemming layer to the lags, on which we place the insulation.
We lay a waterproofing material on top of the insulated layer: foil film, glassine, paronite, etc. waterproofing should cover all logs, leaving only 5-10 cm free from each edge for moisture vapor to escape from the wood.

From above we lay a rough flooring from boards or thick plywood. There should also be an air gap between the flooring and the insulation for natural ventilation.

Reference materials for budgeting

The reference materials given in the table will help you with this:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER 1200x600x100 mm	pack of 4	1400 -1700
Insulation ROCKWOOL 800x600x50 mm	pack of 4	650 — 800
Jute seal 10 cm	m.	8 — 10
Butyl rubber cord 8 mm	m.	12 -16
Warm Seam Sealant	3 kg	1400 -1600
Moss for caulking	bag 10 kg	300 — 450
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 — 1700
Vapor barrier film	70 m2	670 — 750
Bituminous mastic	20 kg	350 — 500
Universal antiseptic	5 l	450 — 600
Fire bioprotective composition Woodmaster KSD	10 l	550 — 600
Impregnation Pinotex Impra	10 l	4800 -5200
Polyfoam PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Wooden beam for the frame, 6 m	PCS.	90 – 180
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 — 1200
Clapboard for wall cladding	1 m2	250 – 400
Drywall moisture resistant	sheet	300 — 450

Wood is a traditional material for building houses. It is intuitively clear that the more massive and thicker the wall, the lower temperatures it can withstand. Today, it is far from always possible to find the building material of the required dimensions. The solution is to perform additional thermal insulation of the walls.

Principles of insulation

The choice of how to insulate a wooden house is actually not so great. There are only two options: internal and external. The first option is the best from a thermotechnical point of view. External insulation does not allow the wall material to cool. As a result, the dew point is located in the outer insulation layer.

Nevertheless, sometimes it is necessary to perform wall insulation inside a wooden house. There may be several reasons for doing this:

the desire to leave the external texture of wooden walls unchanged;
insufficient thickness of external insulation;
the possibility of carrying out work without reference to weather conditions.

Wood, as a structural material, does not like excessive waterlogging. To ensure comfortable operating conditions, it is necessary to isolate the insulation from water vapor penetrating from the living quarters.

Moisture that has ended up inside the structure for one reason or another should have a chance to evaporate into the environment. The vapor permeability of the wall "pie" should gradually decrease in the direction from the living quarters towards the outer (street) surface of the log house.

What to Consider

In fact, when performing insulation from the inside, it is impossible to meet two identical cases. To get the most effective result, it is necessary to make at least an approximate calculation before starting work.

Should be taken into account:

climatic zone of construction;
material and thickness of various layers of the wall;
nature of residence in the house;
temperature and humidity conditions in the room.

Used thermal insulation materials

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. No less important when deciding on the choice of a particular material will be the class of combustibility and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from melts of silicon and basalt rocks, slag residues of metallurgical production and their mixtures. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of various densities.

When insulating vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimal density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³/kg.

When using, the use of hydro and vapor barrier is mandatory. Wet cotton wool contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam and XPS

The structure of foamed insulation, which includes EPS and foam plastics, is a large number of closed, air-filled cells. Such a structure eliminates the need for any additional protective layers. The difference between XPS compared to foam is a denser and therefore more resistant to moisture structure.

When organizing work, you should opt for low-combustible grades (G1 or G2). G4 is characterized by the release of acrid black smoke and burning drops during combustion and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Work example

For example, we can consider the sequence of work on the insulation of a wooden log house from the inside. Wall thickness 150 mm. Mineral wool is used as a heater in Rockwool Scandic Light Butts slabs. Dimensions 800 x 600 x 50.

Foamed insulation does not let air through. On the one hand, this is good - water vapor does not penetrate the wall. On the other hand, it turns out a closed thermos, the atmosphere of a wooden house is lost and forced ventilation is required. The vapor permeability coefficients of mineral wool and wood are quite close. The whole structure from the point of view of heat engineering will be relatively homogeneous.

The choice in favor of just such a brand of material is primarily associated with its wide distribution, ease of use and relatively low cost. An important factor is compression packaging. It allows you to reduce the volume occupied during transportation by up to 70%.

Design calculation

Before starting work, it is necessary to correctly calculate. It is necessary to determine the composition of the insulation structure, the material and thicknesses of the various layers. For these purposes, online thermal calculation services that exist on the Internet are very suitable.

So, for a wooden wall 150 mm thick, internal insulation can have two options.

Option 1:

interior decoration;
air gap;
vapor barrier;
insulation layer 5 cm;
vapor barrier;
air gap;
wall.

Option 2:

interior decoration;
air gap;
vapor barrier;
insulation layer 5 cm;
wall.

Both options work up to -15C° outside air temperature in exactly the same way. A comfortable thermal regime is maintained inside the room (+23 С°).

With further lowering of the temperature in the first variant with two air gaps, condensate does not form down to -20 ° C. In the second, starting from -16 ° C, the dew point shifts to the border of the timber-insulation.

Increasing the thickness of the insulation, paradoxically, will only worsen the situation. With a thickness of the thermal insulation layer of 10 cm, condensate will form already at -12 ° C.

It can be seen from the calculations that insulation from the inside during severe and prolonged frosts is ineffective. However, the option with two air gaps has the right to exist with seasonal residence in cold climatic zones and year-round in temperate zones with mild winters.

Ventilation air

The ventilation gap allows air to circulate inside the wall. It allows you to remove a certain amount of moisture (condensate formed in cold weather).

Internal vents are formed by stuffing vertical slats 20 mm thick and about 40 mm wide onto the wall surface. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws.

A vapor barrier membrane is installed over the installed rails. It is fixed with a construction stapler. An important nuance is orientation. The smooth side should be facing the insulation, rough from it. This will allow water vapor to escape from the volume of thermal insulation towards the air gap and will not let them back.

Execution of the frame and installation of thermal insulation

The main part of the insulating structure is a frame for installing insulation mats. For its manufacture, it is best to use bars with a section of 40 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. Such a section will provide sufficient spatial rigidity.

Fastening of vertical racks is carried out to the floor and ceiling with the help of profiled fixing plates and self-tapping screws. If necessary, to give greater strength, it is possible to carry out through fastening with large self-tapping screws directly to the wall of the house. For the convenience of carrying out subsequent work, the pitch of the vertical racks must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation mats (800 or 600 mm).

To fix the mineral wool in the frame, no fasteners are required. Mats are installed tightly, by surprise. It is very important to completely fill the entire space between the racks in order to exclude microconvection and cold air bridges through the internal slots in the insulation layer.

vapor barrier

The principles and techniques for installing the second vapor barrier layer are similar to the first. The diffusion membrane is unfolded over the entire surface with a smooth side to the insulation and fastened with a stapler.

A continuous barrier is created that protects the interior of the frame with insulation from the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room.

Air gap

By analogy with the first air gap, slats are stuffed onto the frame racks through the installed membrane. They serve to organize the ventilation space and are the basis for fixing the finishing of the room.

Finishing sheathing

Finishing can be the most diverse:

lining;
block house;
OSB boards or drywall sheets, followed by plastering or wallpapering.

The best option to preserve the color and atmosphere of a wooden house is to imitate a bar. If everything is done carefully, then an ignorant person will never guess about the presence of a heater behind the sheathing boards.