Do-it-yourself warming of a wooden floor in a private house. Insulation for the floor in a wooden house along the logs: which is better. Floor insulation during the repair of a wooden house

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

One of the problems of living in a private house made of wood is a cold floor. The fact is that air currents of low temperature go down, coolness also comes from the earth. To make the home cozy, warm and comfortable, to protect it from freezing will help the insulation of the floor covering, which is performed using a variety of materials.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below

It is known that the house is the fortress of every person, so it should always feel cozy and warm. One of the ways to transform the living space is to insulate the floor in a wooden house from below. To get a positive result, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the range of products for insulation, find out the features, choose the best option and complete the installation.

The installation of a thermal insulation layer is distinguished by several specific nuances:

1. Two-layer floor insulation is required in a wooden house from below. It is necessary to reduce the loss of heat leaving through the draft bottom. As a rule, the floor is made of ordinary boards that fit together. The surface will suffer from strong exposure to moisture and low temperatures from the ground, so building materials must be treated with special equipment in advance.
2. Given the fact that wood absorbs liquid well, waterproofing will be needed. Before starting to insulate a wooden floor, it is recommended to lay a one-sided fiber.
3. Products for floor insulation in a wooden house from below should not change their characteristics when in contact with wood.

What insulation is better for the floor in a wooden house

Very often, consumers think about what material is more profitable to use to insulate a cold floor in a wooden house from below. The choice of insulation depends on such factors: the size of the room, the type of surface, the type of wood, the climate, the price. It should be said right away that expensive finishing material is not always the best in quality and may simply not be suitable for a particular building. To make the right choice, it is recommended to find out what kind of insulating floor materials are, to study their characteristics, advantages.

Thermal insulation materials

The range of modern thermal insulation is very wide. Products may differ in dimensions, characteristics, installation technologies, and so on. Warming of floors in a wooden house is often carried out with such building materials: mineral wool, expanded clay, penofol, polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene), polyurethane foam, sawdust, penoplex. The choice of thermal insulation layer depends on the individual preferences of the owner of the building and the characteristics of the flooring. How to insulate the floor in a wooden house during the construction or repair of a dwelling?

Mineral wool

Cold wood flooring is often insulated with mineral wool. This type of seal is available as elastic mats or durable panels. The material must be laid in a single layer. The main advantages of mineral wool:

• high sound and heat insulation;
• long term of practical use;
• resistance to fire and high humidity;
• affordable cost;
• environmental friendliness;
• such a heater is resistant to damage: mechanical and chemical influences.

polyurethane foam

The ideal sealant for a wooden floor, the pores of which are closed with air and gas for insulation, is polyurethane foam. This cellular material has a small mass, but retains heat well. Such a heater is most resistant to the formation of fungus, mold, is not afraid of decay, and is not affected by acids. Polyurethane foam is applied using special equipment and has good adhesion (adhesion to the surface). Thanks to the use of this type of thermal insulation, it is possible to insulate the floor of any shape without the formation of joints.

Styrofoam

Thermal insulation of floors using polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) has a large number of advantages. The structure of the material provides a low level of vapor permeability and thermal conductivity, fire resistance, reliability, resistance to chemical and biological factors. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life and retains its characteristics for a long time. The main disadvantage is that the sealant absorbs a certain amount of liquid, which may affect some properties.

Penoplex

The wooden floor is also insulated with foam plastic - a very light homogeneous polymer material that does not exert a load on the base of the building. It is obtained by extrusion - forcing molten raw materials through the molding recess of the extruder (special equipment). Penoplex is very durable, resistant to low temperatures, durable, characterized by minimal moisture absorption and combustion.

Expanded clay

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor can be carried out using expanded clay - loose, porous products, which consist of small round balls. Insulation is produced by burning slate or clay in a special furnace. Expanded clay to preserve the heat of a wood floor is a durable and environmentally friendly material. It has high rates of sound insulation, fire resistance, frost resistance. There is one significant disadvantage: after a certain period of time, expanded clay is compacted under the weight of its own weight and loses the quality of thermal insulation.

Penofol

Roll-type insulation for a wooden floor, which is made of polyethylene foam, which is covered with aluminum foil on top, is penofol. Such a sealant is not very thick (3-10 mm), but it conducts heat well and does not need additional vapor barrier. Due to its composition, penofol has several disadvantages: rust can “eat” the foil, and polyethylene loses strength over time.

Installation technology

A reliable and effective option for laying insulation for wooden flooring from below is installation along logs - transverse boards (beams) on which the flooring is located.

1. First, logs are attached to the brick foundation, the distance between which should be 1-1.2 meters (as in the photo).
2. Chipboard or thick plywood is mounted on the bars from below using self-tapping screws. This is necessary for laying thermal insulation.
3. Insulating material is laid out on the surface between the lags. The thickness of this layer of thermal insulation can be varied, so you need to focus on the dimensions of the transverse boards (lag).
4. Waterproofing (for example, a plastic film) is laid on top of the sealant. This type of material is not always used, because some types of insulation are themselves resistant to moisture.
5. The final stage of installation is the installation of elements of the old or new wooden floor covering on the ground floor.

A wooden house requires especially careful thermal protection, because if the temperature and humidity conditions are violated, the wood begins to rot and lose its strength characteristics. An effective heater will help prevent this. Before starting work on protection from the cold, it is necessary to figure out how to competently insulate the floor in an individual wooden house.

Why insulate a wooden floor

Compared to concrete, wood is a fairly warm material, but when building a frame private house or a house from a bar with your own hands, it is not always possible to achieve a rational balance of the thickness of the structure in terms of strength and thermal conductivity. To reduce the consumption of materials for walls and foundations, thermal insulation is necessary. It is possible to carry out work on insulation both in an old building put into operation long ago and in new construction.

Floor insulation in a wooden house can prevent the following problems:

• the appearance of excessive dampness in the room;
• decrease in temperature in the task;
• condensation, which results in mold;
• the appearance of fungus and other microorganisms dangerous to humans;
• increase in heating costs;
• destruction of wooden structures from the inside.

By doing the work yourself, you can significantly reduce costs. Now there are many materials, the use of which does not require special skills and high qualifications.

Scheme of all heat losses of a wooden house.

Which floors require insulation

The following structures need protection:

1. cold cellar floor cake;
2. attic floor;
3. interfloor construction.

In the case of an interfloor option, the material is used as sound insulation. In this case, it is necessary to provide a layer 3-5 cm thick.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house allows you to provide comfortable living conditions. Most heat loss occurs through the ceiling of the upper floor, so it is necessary that the thermal insulation is selected and laid correctly.

Materials for work

To competently insulate the floor in a wooden house, you need to choose a high-quality insulation that has all the necessary properties. Warming can be carried out both from the inside of the room and from the side of cold air.

For do-it-yourself insulation of the attic floor from the inside or the basement from the bottom, it is better to use lightweight materials that can easily be fixed from below to the ceiling pie. In this case, it would be correct to apply:

• mineral wool in rolls;

These materials will provide maximum convenience when insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

When insulating a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, work can be carried out from the inside of the room for the floor of the first floor and from the outside for the last one. In this case, it is better to carry out floor insulation along logs or beams, since this will prevent the transfer of load to fragile material. For this type of work, you can use the following materials:

More information about insulation with sawdust and expanded clay can be found in the articles and. These materials have such advantages as natural origin and low cost, so if you need to reduce construction costs or insulation in an old building and ensure complete environmental friendliness, it is better to use them. However, they are less technologically advanced than other materials.

Recently, the method is also gaining popularity. This method is good for its low labor intensity and high efficiency.

floor insulation technology

It is important to properly lay the insulation in compliance with the competent order of all layers. The floor pie when insulating the attic floor, the floor of the second floor or the first floor has not always noticeable, but significant differences.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from below

In this case, when doing do-it-yourself work, the materials should be correctly laid in the following order:

1. waterproofing;
2. insulation;
3. vapor barrier;
4. cover structure.

When building a house from a bar or frame, the material is fixed along the beams. Then the stitching is done. As a protection against moisture and steam, you can use a regular plastic film. As a second option for waterproofing, moisture-proof membranes are used. If all the layers are laid correctly, the structure will be reliably and competently protected from the cold from the point of view of heat engineering.

This method is very laborious and is used only if there is no possibility of warming from the inside.

Also, the method is perfect for warming from below.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from the inside

It is quite inconvenient to carry out work under the ceiling, therefore, when erecting a frame house or a building from a bar, they often perform insulation of the floor of the first floor along the beams from above. In this case, in addition to the previously given materials, loose materials such as sawdust and expanded clay can be used. When carrying out insulation with your own hands, it is correct to lay all layers in the following sequence:

1. floor structure;
2. waterproofing;
3. insulation;
4. vapor barrier;
5. clean floor.

The vapor barrier must be placed from the inside of the room, so it will work correctly, preventing damage to the ceiling along the beams from the timber.

Interfloor insulation

In the first case, the insulation dampens airborne noise: human speech, music, etc. In the second case, the structure is also perfectly isolated from impact noise - steps, jumps, etc.

Proper sound insulation of interfloor ceilings is the key to a comfortable stay for all family members.

Insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor from the inside

Installation of insulation from the inside does not provide maximum protection for structures, but it can be used as a second option for laying insulation. In this case, the insulation is mounted along the beams from the bottom of the ceiling. It will be correct to arrange the layers in this order:

1. vapor barrier;
2. insulation;
3. waterproofing;
4. beam roof construction.

Attic floor insulation

When building and repairing a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, it is better to insulate the attic from above. This method has the following advantages:

• ease of installation;
• the possibility of using inexpensive bulk materials;
• competent thermal protection;
• warming not only the premises, but also the ceilings along the beams of a house made of timber or frame;
• prevention of condensation in the thickness of the ceiling.

To ensure proper protection, the layers are stacked in the following order from bottom to top:

1. floor structure;
2. vapor barrier;
3. thermal insulation material;
4. waterproofing.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To perform a full-fledged thermotechnical calculation of the structures of a frame house or a building made of timber, it is not necessary to have a construction education. When performing the calculation, it is important to know the thicknesses of all layers of the cake and their thermal conductivity. It's easy enough to find out.

The calculation will allow you to perform competent insulation of the house from a bar and prevent overspending of materials. All calculations, taking into account the search for initial data, are unlikely to take more than half an hour. Usually such layers as waterproofing, vapor barrier are not taken into account.

A competent choice of the method of insulation, the type of material and its thickness can save you from many problems during operation. When building multi-storey residential buildings, the question of insulation does not arise: it is required. The correctness of the choice of thickness and the availability of measures for thermal protection of the floor, attic floor and walls are checked by an examination, which considers these calculations on an equal basis with strength calculations.

In private housing construction, no one checks the presence of competent insulation, but this does not make it less important.

The temperature comfort in the house, first of all, begins to be perceived by the body through the legs. Therefore, the condition of floor coverings and their foundations is given considerable attention. After all, they, especially on the first floors, are among the coldest structures in residential buildings. This is due to coldness and dampness coming from the ground, as well as convection currents of cooling air inside the premises, descending from the ceiling to the floor. Not surprisingly, for houses with wooden floors without a basement or basement, heat loss through and floor structures can be up to 30% of the total. A logical question arises, how to insulate a wooden floor in order to minimize such negative indicators, thus increasing the comfort in the premises?

Design features of insulated wooden floors

In most cases, a wooden floor from a board is mounted on logs. There are two main ways to create such structures: on the ground or on the foundation with the arrangement of the subfloor. The first option is cheaper and preferable for small technical facilities or temporary residence buildings. These can be sheds, workshops, saunas, cottages, etc. In them, bulk materials are more often used for floor insulation: expanded clay, perlite, polystyrene foam balls, ecowool, tyrsa, straw, derivatives or woodworking waste (sawdust, shavings, wood pellets).

In the second variant, supporting columns or strips of bricks (concrete, rolled steel, foam concrete blocks with an average density of at least 400-600 kg / m 3) on a previously prepared sand cushion can act as a base. Insulation for the floor in a wooden house is placed at some distance from the ground surface, forming a ventilated space (subfloor) to remove moisture. In this case, it is more convenient to install a heat-insulating barrier by laying slab (expanded polystyrene, wood concrete blocks, mineral wool) or rolled (felt, penofol, mineral wool) target materials, however, the use of bulk materials is not excluded.

Stages of installing a floor with bulk insulation on the ground

It is allowed to use this method only with a low occurrence of groundwater at the stage of erection of a temporary residence structure. The sequence of installation stages of floor insulation will be as follows:

1. At the marked construction site, the fertile soil layer is completely removed to a depth of at least 30 cm - the main depths of the roots of the grass cover, exceeding two to three times the height of the timber (10-15 cm), usually chosen as lags.
2. The bottom of the excavation is carefully compacted.
3. The resulting 10 cm pit is filled with coarse-grained mineral material. Suitable: crushed stone, gravel, large construction debris, broken bricks, etc. Ideally, it is recommended to use crushed stone or gravel with bituminous impregnation.
4. A pillow of coarse aggregate is rammed, and fine aggregate (10 cm) is poured on top: river or expanded clay sand, fine slag. Arrangement of a layer of greasy clay is also suitable - it will simultaneously serve as additional waterproofing for warming the wooden floor from below.
5. Logs are lowered onto the ground base. Their wood must be carefully treated with an antiseptic in 2-3 passes. Factory-made target formulations, used engine oil or ozocerite are suitable. For maximum protection against accidental moisture from below, the beam can be wrapped with roofing material, taking care of the hydroprotection of its ends, and lay a couple of layers of plastic film under the entire structure.
6. The space between the lags is filled with backfill for floor insulation.
7. Semi-rough or boards are laid on a timber frame.

If the GWL (groundwater level) is close, then, at a minimum, it is necessary to lay a high base. Then the prepared base is equipped with bulk compacted soil, with which the basement tape is filled to its upper cut.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor on logs with an underfloor

Buildings and structures designed for continuous operation in the winter require more thorough floor insulation. At the same time, quite often used for thermal insulation purposes:

• mineral wool,
• waste wood insulation
• ecowool,

must be protected from moisture. It cannot be placed directly on the ground surface, even using polymer roll waterproofing. In addition to the capillary suction of water from below due to the temperature difference, condensate can accumulate in it. Moisture drops, retained in the microchannels or pores of the heat-shielding layer, significantly reduce its effectiveness.

Therefore, at a high GWL, it is recommended to raise the frame structure, including the insulation for the floor on the logs, above the ground by equipping a ventilated subfloor. The frame can be supported by any sufficiently strong pillars with a height of at least 30-50 cm from non-rotting materials, as well as from wood impregnated with antiseptics and hydrophobes.

To reduce humidity in the underground space, it is advisable to cover the soil surface with plastic wrap. The panels are laid in an overlap of 10-15 cm, with sealing with a wide adhesive tape at the seams. If the supports are monolithic blocks of porous concrete, then it is recommended to install them directly on the film. On the heads of pillars of all types, gaskets are laid under the logs from 2-3 layers of roofing material with bituminous impregnation.

In addition to waterproofing on the ground, it is necessary to equip a barrier of breathable waterproofing (membrane) in the lower part of the wooden floor insulation frame. Vapor-permeable material is laid in such a way as not to prevent moisture from escaping from bulk or fibrous thermal insulation. The underground space receives 2 layers of protection at different levels, not only from moisture, but also the migration of soil radon gas into the living space is reduced.

Important! The ventilated subfloor space must have a sufficient number of vents (vents) with adjustable gaps. The holes are closed with a thin metal mesh or grate, which makes it difficult for rodents to enter the underground.

If you plan to use a hermetic insulation for a wooden floor - slab polystyrene foam of medium or high density, foil thermal insulation based on foamed polymers (isolon, penofol), then there is no need for a breathable membrane barrier.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation along the logs: a sequence of processes

Base making:

• for the base under the supports, it is necessary to choose soil 30-50 cm deep, and in terms of width 10-15 cm more than the column. Fill the hole with sand and gravel mixture and tamp;
• install supports on the formed pillows. Their step is taken no more than 2 m along the span (along the log);
• the heads of the pillars should be aligned in a horizontal plane, using blotches from a cement-sand mortar. If the thickness of the solution exceeds 3 cm, then it is better to reinforce it with a metal mesh, for example, masonry;
• on top of the hardened blotches, lay sheets of waterproofing (2-5 cm wider than the posts), on which the logs are already mounted. The step between the lags depends on the rigidity of the entire structure: the material used for floor insulation, the thickness of the lag, the type of finish coating, as well as operational loads. For typical floor structures in residential buildings, logs with a cross section of 100-150 * 50 mm are usually used. Moreover, it is advisable to install them in increments of 600 mm, which corresponds to the width of the mineral wool boards. With this arrangement, floor insulation with mineral wool is noticeably simplified, and the amount of its trimming is reduced.

Thermal insulation and flooring:

• if you decide to use slab or rolled heat-insulating materials, then for their installation it is enough to fix the metal mesh along the lower plane of the log. If you have chosen a loose heat insulator, then you will have to assemble the lower draft floor to support it. OSB boards, substandard boards, plywood scraps, etc. are suitable for it. The draft flooring is mounted directly to the lower plane of the log or to their side surface through the cranial bar;
• floor insulation on logs must be reliably protected from above from the effects of both dripping liquid and moist air. Therefore, lay a hydro-vapor barrier film on top of it. For each subsequent strip, ensure an overlap on the previous one by at least 10-15 cm. Glue the seams with adhesive tape intended for such work;
• now, in principle, you can start picking up flooring boards by nailing them or screwing them to the logs with self-tapping screws. However, for the preservation of wood, it is better to provide a ventilation gap of at least 30 mm under the top deck. The bars of the appropriate thickness stuffed on them will help to raise the covering boards above the logs.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden floor?

1. Sawdust, wood chips, shavings, wood waste and thermal insulation based on them

Insulating the floor with sawdust in a wooden house is economical and also quite effective. The main advantages of this method are the affordable cost of the material, ease of use, and environmental friendliness. Nevertheless, sawdust in its pure form is quite dusty and is a favorable habitat for various unwanted small animals. Therefore, it may be better to equip the subfloor with building materials made using wood waste. Such products include:

• thermal insulation panels. They are blocks 20-50 cm thick, consisting of sawdust, cement and copper sulfate. An effective material with high resistance to biological damage. It is widely used not only for floor insulation, but also for thermal insulation of the walls of structures built in a frame way;
• pallets/granules/pellets made from sawdust and carboxymethyl cellulose glue. Various antiseptics and flame retardants are also added to the feedstock. Thanks to modifiers, a good thermal insulation of a wooden floor is obtained from the material, which has a high resistance to combustion and biological damage;
• sawdust concrete, for the production of which, in addition to sawdust, mainly coniferous wood, sand is used as a fine filler, and Portland cement is used as a binder. The finished product is molded in the form of blocks or plates;
• wood concrete - the closest analogue of sawdust concrete. In it, the role of the filler is played by wood chips. The feedstock is also subjected to targeted chemical treatment by introducing hydrophobic modifiers into it. In addition, the material can be installed both on sound insulation and on the insulation of wooden floors.

2. Mineral wool for floor insulation

It is one of the most common and effective materials. Mineral wool based on slag, basalt and glass fibers is suitable for thermal protection purposes. All of them are non-combustible materials, have low thermal conductivity coefficients, high chemical and biological resistance. However, since slag wool is the most hygroscopic, shrinks significantly, is too brittle, and generates a lot of dust during installation, it is better to refrain from using it.

Low mechanical strength, which is considered a disadvantage of many types of mineral wool, is not of key importance, since the fibrous material will be enclosed in a rigid structure of logs and boardwalk.

Insulation of the floor with mineral wool in a wooden house can be done both with mats and rolls. It is recommended to use their two-layer placement with offset joints, and also to choose basalt wool with moisture-resistant impregnations.

3. Insulation of the wooden floor with foam

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is the second most popular material for insulating floors and floors. It has significant biological and chemical resistance, low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability. And unlike fibrous and many bulk building materials, it is not even afraid of direct contact with liquid, therefore it can do without creating a waterproofing carpet between the insulation and the room.

Its disadvantages include: high flammability, some release of carcinogens (decomposition products of the styrene group). Styrofoam insulation of a wooden floor can also be enjoyed by rodents, while at the same time not too favoring glass wool.

Varieties of expanded polystyrene

In addition to the usual slab foam, it can be used in bulk from loose balls. This form of it is convenient both for independent use and in combination with plates for insulating narrow niches.

In structures without lag (in the presence of a rigid, even base), it is possible to install extruded polystyrene foam. It has sufficient strength to withstand laying a semi-rough or finished floor from boards directly onto its surface.

4. Ecowool

Refers to heat-insulating materials from recycled products. Consists of waste paper (80%) and modifying additives mainly on a natural basis (20%). In other words, ecowool is a homogeneous mixture of cellulose fibers, an organic binder (lignin), an antiseptic and a fire retardant (boric acid). Insulation of floors from boards based on it is positioned as environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It has a low thermal conductivity, and after wetting and subsequent drying, the original properties are completely restored.

The laying of insulation on the floor can be carried out both independently manually and with the help of special injection units with the involvement of third-party specialists. Special equipment also allows you to blow ecowool into the space between the joists even after installing the final floor covering.

5. Foil thermal insulation based on foamed polyethylene (isolon, penofol)

The use of such modern heat-insulating materials makes it possible to insulate the floor in a wooden house with almost complete preservation of the infrared component of thermal energy indoors (up to 98%).

At the same time, the insulation of a wooden floor with penofol or isolon is also its waterproofing. The laying of the material is carried out end-to-end with sealing of the junctions with a special aluminum adhesive tape.

Important! A distance of 10-20 mm must be maintained between the reflective layer and the inner surface of the floor covering.

6. Spray foam

Polyurethane foam has a cellular structure that resembles very dense extruded foam. It is one of the most effective means of thermal insulation due to its extremely low thermal conductivity. Resistant to biological damage, acids and alkalis. It has low moisture absorption rates, does not need an additional vapor or waterproofing carpet. It is applied by spraying with the help of special equipment.

conclusions

Insulation of wooden floors can be done on your own, using various heat-insulating materials and technologies. The costs incurred will pay off in a few years thanks to energy savings. In addition, building structures, due to the absence of temperature fluctuations and the formation of condensate, will receive a longer period of operation.

Good thermal insulation reduces heat loss by 20–40%, and in some cases even more. At the same time, a properly selected floor insulation in a wooden house not only reduces heating costs, but also directly affects the microclimate in the rooms. You need to know how to pick it up. Do you agree?

You will learn all about the thermal insulation options that are acceptable for arranging a wooden floor from the article we have proposed. We will tell you what criteria affect the choice and how to take them into account. Our recommendations will help to competently equip the lower floor in a structure made of timber or logs.

There is no universal thermal insulation material for all cases. To insulate each structure in a private house (foundation, load-bearing walls, ceiling), you should choose your best option.

And even in the same cottage, floors in different rooms often have to be insulated with different thermal insulation. The requirements for thermal conductivity of floors in them often differ.

The choice of floor insulation strongly depends on the design of the floor, as well as the type of rooms below and above - if one of them is not heated, then the number of suitable thermal insulation options is sharply reduced

It is necessary to distinguish between floors in a wooden house between:

• basement and first floor;
• residential floors.

In the second case, insulation is usually not produced. Above and below are heated rooms with approximately the same microclimate parameters. It is not required to separate them from each other with additional thermal insulation.

But the floor above the basement will have to be insulated in a wooden house in any case. And it doesn’t matter if the basement is used in any way or the wind is blowing from below between the supports of the pile foundation.

Only the version of the insulation and its thickness will change. But you will have to lay the thermal insulation anyway, otherwise the heat loss through the non-insulated ceiling will be quite noticeable.

The floor in a wooden house on the ground floor is mounted:

• on the ground;
• along the lags or on the screed;
• along the beams.

The first option is usually used with a low strip foundation. The second - with a foundation base in the form of a monolithic slab. And the third - in all other situations.

And in each case, the insulation should be selected individually. For example, it is impossible to put mineral wool on the ground, it will quickly dampen and deteriorate during such installation.

When using a heater, the subfloor must be well ventilated, otherwise the heat-insulating material itself, as well as the wooden floor logs and the crown of the log house in contact with it, will begin to deteriorate from the condensate

The main reason for the damage to the "pie" of the insulated floor on the ground floor above the basement is excess moisture. The heat insulator and the structure of such a floor in a private wooden house are affected by moisture from the ground and the condensate formed due to temperature changes, as well as water spilled during cleaning.

Polymer waterproofing films are used to protect the insulation. But if the floor insulation system is arranged without ventilation, then films that interfere with the free removal of condensate can even do harm. When the insulation gets wet, it will lose its insulating characteristics, and it will become an excellent breeding ground for the fungus.

Possible materials for insulation

There is an incredible amount of heaters on the domestic market. But not all of them are suitable for a low-rise house made of logs or timber.

On the one hand, one should take into account the compatibility of the selected heat-insulating material and the wood from which the residential building was built. And on the other hand, do not forget about the environmental friendliness of all building materials used.

The main advantage of a cottage made of wood is environmental friendliness. Insulate the floor in it with synthetics should only be a last resort.

Among the variety of heaters for a wooden house are recommended:

• stone wool;
• cellulose-based ecowool;
• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• fibrolite.

Also, in some situations, you can use. But it is best to do without this material, preferring a more environmentally friendly insulation from the list above.

Option #1 - stone mineral wool

Mineral wool is made from fiberglass, slag from blast furnaces and rocks. In wooden houses, it is worth using the last of these types - cotton wool insulation made from basalt fibers. It is the safest for humans and environmentally friendly - there are practically no synthetic binders in it.

Stone wool has:

• low thermal conductivity 0.034–0.04 W / (m * K);
• excellent vapor permeability;
• good noise reduction.

Basalt insulation is not subject to decay, does not burn and can easily withstand heating up to 700 ° C without loss of performance.

It is necessary to insulate a residential cottage with glass wool only from the outside. This type of mineral wool is distinguished by the fragility of glass fibers, which cause irritation when dropped on the skin and mucous membranes.

Option #2 - cellulose ecowool

This material is environmentally friendly, resistant to mold and incombustible. In the manufacture of ecowool, cellulose (waste paper production) is impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.

Fire and fungi are not afraid of her. At the same time, this heat-insulating material can absorb moisture up to 15% of its own weight.

Also, ecowool cannot be mounted near the bases of root chimneys, the foundations of stoves and fireplaces. Under the influence of high temperatures, cellulose will smolder. Due to the abundance of flame retardants, it will not light up. But the gradual smoldering of paper will inevitably thin the insulation layer and lead to an increase in heat loss.

The main disadvantage of ecowool is its high moisture absorption - if such a heater is not dried by ventilation, then it will quickly lose its thermal insulation properties.

Option #3 - sawdust

If you want to get the most environmentally friendly housing, then in a wooden cottage you can use sawdust. They are poured in a compacted layer 10-40 cm thick between the lag, which gives a fairly high-quality insulation without any chemistry.

Sawdust is the cheapest of the existing heaters. They are tested by time and long practice. However, this material, like any wood, is flammable. Whether it is worth adding flammable fuel to a potential fire in a wooden house is an open question.

Option # 4 - expanded clay

The second line in terms of cheapness after sawdust can be deservedly given to expanded clay. This insulation is made from fired clay. It is in the form of granules with many air-filled voids inside.

Of the minuses of expanded clay, only its high hygroscopicity is worth mentioning. If the expanded clay granule is split, then it will absorb water like a sponge. Without an underlying waterproofing in the form of a thick polyethylene film, such insulation cannot be poured.

Expanded clay is ideal for floor insulation on the ground. It is also often used when arranging an insulated concrete screed, pouring it from below or using it as a filler for a mortar.

Option #5 - Styrofoam

This material is presented on the market by foam plastic and slab (EPS). If you take it, then for floor insulation only the second option is extruded polystyrene foam. It is denser and absorbs moisture much less.

Styrofoam and wood are often called antagonists. The first does not let moisture through, and the second, on the contrary, absorbs it well and then releases it to the air.

However, with proper installation, XPS and polystyrene can be combined with wooden structures. It is only necessary to leave a gap between the polystyrene foam insulation and the wood for ventilation so that condensate does not accumulate there.

The main disadvantages of EPPS are flammability with the release of harmful gases and low vapor permeability. Even the presence of additives does not save this insulation from open fire, and the impermeability of water vapor does not allow the wooden floor to breathe

Option #6 - Fiberboard

Fiberboard is made from wood shavings and cement. This is an excellent insulation, which is not yet very widespread in Russia.

Fiberboard is characterized by a rather high hygroscopicity. It dries quickly, which, however, is possible only in conditions of good ventilation. It is a non-flammable, harmless to humans, non-rotten and breathable heat insulator. Just don't let it get wet and frozen.

Fiberboard has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. This is a high-quality and durable insulation that cannot be used only when laying the floor directly on the ground.

Choosing the best insulation

If you need the most environmentally friendly material, then the choice should be stopped on sawdust, expanded clay or fiberboard. Basalt wool is also ready to give a serious head start to expanded polystyrene in this respect.

If the house is located on a wet area with a high GWL, then EPPS should be preferred when insulating the floor - due to its resistance to moisture, it will last longer in the basement than other options

The floors in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen are also recommended to be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. These rooms are characterized by high humidity. The more moisture resistant insulation is used in them or under them, the longer such material will last.

However, if the ventilation in the subfield is well organized, then ordinary mineral wool can also be used.

For comparison, the table below shows the main characteristics of heaters:

When choosing the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, you should compare the available options by:

• thermal conductivity;
• vapor permeability;
• combustibility;
• environmental friendliness;
• durability (resistance to moisture and fungus);
• price.

The lower the thermal conductivity of the insulation, the better it is. Vapor permeability affects its ability to breathe and conduct condensate to the outside.

Expanded clay and sawdust are considered the cheapest heat insulators. More expensive - fiberboard, ecowool and EPPS.

The following article will acquaint you with the diagrams of the installation of the floor insulation system, built along the logs.

When choosing a heater for the floor, you should focus on the features of the room to be insulated, the type of foundation and the available budget.

In most cases, the best option is environmentally friendly and non-combustible basalt mineral wool. But if the floor is settled on the ground, then it is better to use expanded clay. And if the basement has high humidity, then preference should be given to expanded polystyrene.

Tell us about how you insulated the floor in a wooden building with your own hands. Share which insulation option you preferred and why. Please leave comments in the block below, ask questions and publish photos on the topic of the article.

In domestic climatic conditions, the need for insulation of residential buildings is beyond doubt. Owners of private houses have to solve this problem on their own. Wooden boards, from which in most cases the floors are made in suburban households, deform over time, and gaps appear in the initially tightly knocked down coating.

It is hard to imagine, but up to thirty percent of thermal energy can escape through these cracks in the cold season. As a result, heating costs rise sharply, and the comfort of living in the winter period decreases. To prevent these consequences, it is necessary to insulate the floors with high quality.

The list of materials for floor insulation is quite wide.

Variants of wood floor insulation technologies

The procedure for thermal insulation of a wooden floor should be provided for at the stage of designing and building a house, and then minimal labor and financial resources will be required. If it is necessary to perform this manipulation, when the overlap is already ready, the technology for performing work is much more complicated. In this case, it is possible to do the work correctly and insulate the floor from above, directly along the old coating, or with its partial dismantling. There is also the option of insulating the flooring from the bottom of the basement.

In this case, it is more convenient to insulate the floor from the basement side.

Thermal insulation of floors is made from above if the house has a low basement. If at the same time the flooring is dismantled, only logs are left. The procedure is very labor intensive. In the event that the basement is of sufficient depth, the laying of the insulating material can be done from below. This is much easier and faster, since in the process of doing the work you will not have to dismantle and disassemble the flooring if it is in good condition.

The better to insulate the floors in a private house

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house is quite realistic. In this case, a variety of heat-insulating materials are used. Which one is better is determined after analyzing their performance characteristics and the specific conditions in which they will be operated. Insulated floor significantly increases the comfort of living in the house at negative ambient temperatures and reduces heating costs.

Ecowool - one of the options for insulation for wooden floors

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are widely used, the use of glass wool and mineral wool has its own characteristics. The simplest and cheapest method of insulating the surface of a wooden floor is with expanded clay or using sawdust. The so-called dry screed has good performance characteristics.

Advantages and disadvantages of polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

Many people know that it is possible to insulate the floor with foam. Expanded polystyrene for the floor is also popular with professional builders and home craftsmen. Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene, due to their excellent performance, are most widely used as insulating materials. Except for minor differences, their specifications are comparable to each other. The use of these thermal insulation materials has the following advantages:

• low cost;
• low thermal conductivity;
• small mass;
• wide area of ​​use;
• long service life;
• resistance to pathogenic microflora;
• ease of installation.

Quite often, the floor is insulated with foam

In addition to the above advantages, these materials also have operational disadvantages. Their list is also quite impressive, the following negative qualities can be noted:

• emit harmful substances when ignited;
• prevent the passage of water vapor;
• afraid of exposure to direct sunlight;
• attractive to rodents;
• are destroyed on contact with solvents;
• have low mechanical strength.

Characteristics of "Dry screed" for floor insulation

The so-called "Dry screed", which is made from gypsum fiber, is great for thermal insulation of the wooden floor of a private house. The use of this composition implies the following positive aspects:

• excellent thermal insulation;
• fire safety;
• ease of installation;
• compatibility with all finishing coatings;
• small thickness;
• good sound absorption characteristics.

The process of laying a "dry screed" for floor insulation

At the same time, since we are insulating the floor with a factory-made dry mixture, its high consumption should be taken into account: twenty kilograms of the mixture are required to process one square meter of surface. In addition, when water penetrates, the geometric dimensions of the dry screed change, which can lead to damage to the finish coating.

Possibility of using mineral wool

Mineral wool is widely used to provide thermal insulation for wooden floors. The material is made in the form of plates, which are easy to lay on the floor with your own hands.

Mineral wool is well suited for floor insulation

Mineral wool has many positive properties. The material is distinguished by excellent sound-absorbing and heat-insulating qualities, fire safety, prevents the reproduction of pathogenic microflora, and is resistant to aggressive chemical environments.

However, when water enters, deformation and partial loss of heat-insulating qualities occur. In addition, mineral wool has low mechanical strength and does not belong to environmentally friendly materials.

Features of the use of glass wool

Glass wool is similar in its characteristics to mineral wool. A feature of its use is that when performing work, you need to carefully ensure that it does not get into the organs of vision or on the skin.

Glass wool - a common option for insulating a wooden floor

The production process is complicated by the need for the employee to use personal protective equipment. The negative quality of this material is its significant shrinkage over time, as a result of which, if improperly installed, thermal insulation is violated.

Pros and cons of using expanded clay

Expanded clay is a clay-based foamed and fired granules of a porous structure. The big advantage of this material is its low cost, environmental friendliness, low weight and long service life of about fifty years. Expanded clay has excellent soundproofing and insulating qualities. Thus, the thermal insulation of the surface of a wooden floor with expanded clay will not make a hole in the family budget.

Expanded clay floor insulation - simple and inexpensive

The disadvantage of its use can be considered the need to perform a layer of backfill that is significant in thickness, otherwise the wooden floors will remain cold, especially at sharply negative ambient temperatures. In addition, it absorbs moisture well, although it does not lose its insulating properties.

Sawdust is the cheapest material

The cheapest material in terms of cost is finely chopped sawdust. They do not pose any danger to human health, the technology for performing work is extremely simple: the space between the rough and finish flooring is filled with sawdust. Before use, this material must be thoroughly dried for at least twelve months, otherwise it will quickly become unusable. Cutting waste from freshly cut trees cannot be used immediately.

Apparently, sawdust is the most budget option for floor insulation.

By increasing or decreasing the thickness of the layer, the level of thermal insulation is adjusted. In the northern regions with a very cold climate, a very thick layer has to be poured. It is necessary to take into account the attractiveness of this material for rodents and to repel them, add two parts of dry slaked lime to the composition. The disadvantage of sawdust is the occurrence of rotting processes in them when wet.

Modern choice - isolon and penofol

Undoubted operational advantages are the use of such modern materials as isolon and penofol as a heater. Izolon is a foamed polyethylene covered with a layer of foil and has excellent soundproofing qualities with a very small thickness. The material does not support combustion, prevents the development of pathogenic microflora and corrosion processes, a two-centimeter layer is comparable in soundproofing and heat-saving properties with masonry in one brick.

Fragments of laying penoizol for floor insulation

Penofol produced in the form of rolls consists of several layers of insulation, on top of which there is a reflective foil. It acts as a screen that prevents large losses of thermal energy.

When using penofol, it is not necessary to carry out additional work on waterproofing or arranging a vapor barrier layer.

The easiest way is laying a double floor

The easiest way to perform insulation is to provide for the laying of a double floor at the stage of building a house, which is a rough and finish coating. Such a system of insulation should be used in a room with high ceilings, as you have to take up useful space.

The construction technology provides for the laying of logs on which the subfloor will be strengthened. The covering can be made of wooden boards, chipboards, OSB or other similar materials, it is only important that the structural elements fit snugly together without forming gaps.

Arrangement of a double floor - a reliable option for insulation

Insulating material is laid on the surface of the subfloor between the guides. At the same time, sand should not be used as its quality at high natural humidity, since in this case condensation may form. A finishing coating of wooden boards about five centimeters thick is mounted on top of the insulation. The new coating will have to be painted, as described in the article

Of course, the old floor can also be insulated in the same way, however, the reduction in the relative height of the ceiling should be taken into account.

The most correct floor insulation - according to the logs

When building a new house or dismantling the coating, the most correct floor insulation is the method of performing work on logs. In this case, the insulation is placed between the logs, which serve as the basis for the finished floor. Depending on the design of the building, the basis for the installation of logs and insulation can be a subfloor made on their own logs, as well as a concrete coating or even soil. In the latter case, it is useful to equip a clay castle to protect it from moisture with a layer of about 5-10 cm.

Dense insulation can be held between the lags on ordinary nails

In the technology under consideration, the height of the lag and the distance between them must correspond to the height of the insulation and its width. Before installing the floor covering on top of the insulation, it is necessary to equip a vapor barrier layer of a waterproof film fixed on the logs. The joints of the film can be fixed with adhesive tape.

How to insulate floors with your own hands from below without removing the old floor

If a private house has a deep cold basement, the most correct way would be to insulate the floor from below without removing the old coating. This does not require choosing a material that can withstand the weight of heavy furniture and other mechanical loads. In this case, not only the finished surface will be protected, but the entire floor as a whole, and the dew point of the floor will shift outward, and the floor will not rot.

When performing such a task, some difficulties lie in rapid fatigue when working with constantly raised hands. There are also restrictions on the types of heat-insulating material and the need for its fastening with increased reliability.

Schematically, insulation from below is performed as follows:

• first, a waterproofing layer is equipped;
• then a heat insulator is located;
• on top of it, insulation from water vapor;
• then an overlap is performed to ensure the retention of the thermal insulation of the floor.

Styrofoam can be fixed from below with nails with spacers and mounting foam

Adhering to this technology when doing the work with your own hands, you can get the most comfortable temperature conditions in the living quarters of the house. The heat insulator should be of low weight, since it will exert a constant load on the fasteners, bulk materials are not suitable in this case.

Floor insulation in a wooden house from the inside with foam or glass wool

Insulation from the inside with foam or glass wool gives good results. These materials are lightweight and have excellent thermal insulation properties. First, waterproofing is fixed to the lower surface of the ceiling using a stapler. Next, you can lay the thermal insulation boards in such a way that they are held during installation due to frictional forces. To do this, their width should be slightly larger than the distance between the lags. When working with glass wool, be sure to use personal protective equipment for the respiratory system, vision and skin.

Penoplex - a reliable insulation of a wooden floor

A vapor barrier film is applied over the insulation, which is attached to the logs with staples and a stapler. Further along the logs, a frame is mounted that holds the insulation. It can be made from any material that suits you in appearance and durability. Between the retaining elements, gaps are allowed through which the insulation is guaranteed not to fall out.

Step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of a wooden floor with polyurethane foam

At present, the thermal insulation of a wooden floor with polyurethane foam has become widespread. To perform this work, it is necessary to first prepare the base on which the ecowool will be applied, and spray the composition onto the lower surface of the floor. The step-by-step instruction looks like this:

• the coating is cleaned of contaminants and thoroughly degreased;
• the base is dried to a moisture content of not more than five percent;
• the high pressure unit is connected by hoses to the containers with the components of the mixture;
• polyurethane foam spreads evenly over the floor surface;
• the drying time of the coating occurs within two days from the moment of application.

It is quite possible to insulate wooden floors from below with polyurethane foam

High-pressure equipment used to spray polyurethane foam is very expensive. It is irrational to purchase it for arranging thermal insulation in a private house and it is better to rent this equipment.