Insulation of a wooden attic from the inside. Proper complex insulation of the attic. Attic insulation with foam plastic: the pros and cons of the material

Attic - a favorite home of poets, artists, creative and creative people. Thanks to new building materials, the attic floor can be used as a room under the roof as a living or utility room (zone) not only in summer, but also in winter (for winter living). Abroad, well-designed and decorated attics do belong to the category of bohemian housing.

In modern housing construction, an attic is not just an equipped warm attic, it is an effective way to increase the functional space of a residential building. It is noteworthy that, in accordance with urban planning standards, the attic is taken into account when determining the number of storeys of a building.

Benefits of an insulated attic:

saving on the cost of materials in the construction of a residential building;
arrangement of a functional additional area;
original appearance of a private house with an attic;
reduction of heat loss through the under-roof space.

Among the disadvantages: sloping ceilings, the need for additional insulation, difficulties with the rational organization of living space.

Most of the minuses of the attic are completely removable and with the right approach become advantages.

Preparing to insulate the attic

A specific feature of the attic is the presence of a sloping ceiling. Moreover, according to the standards of SNiP 2.08.01-89 "Residential buildings", the height of the attic floor cannot be lower than 2.5 m. It is allowed to reduce the height in an area not exceeding 50% of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe premises.

Other features of the attic include:

the dependence of heat loss on the material from which the house is built: wood, cellular concrete, brick, or a combination thereof;
dependence of attic engineering systems on those existing in the house. This leaves imprints on technical solutions for the device of communications;
variety of architectural forms: broken, one, gable roof;
variety of design solutions. The material for the manufacture of load-bearing elements of the attic can be wood, metal, reinforced concrete;
location specifics. The attic can be located within the area of the building or go beyond its boundaries, supported by columns or a cantilevered extension of the interfloor ceiling.

Thus, when deciding how to insulate the attic for winter living, one must proceed from the design features.

Note that it is correct to carry out work on the insulation of a residential building or apartment outside the premises, because. this approach provides a shift in the freezing point towards the insulation mounted on the outside of the wall.

However, attic insulation from the inside is a ubiquitous option, because. all surfaces that are subject to insulation are inside the attic (room) floor - ceiling, floor and walls. The exception is the pediment, which can be insulated as part of the attic thermal insulation or at the same time as the insulation of the whole house.

Factors affecting the thermal insulation of the attic

Professionals identify two key factors that have a significant impact on the level of heat loss and the performance of the attic after the insulation work has been completed.

First, it is a heat-insulating material. Taking into account the fact that the attic floor is the coldest room in the house, and it is supposed to do the attic insulation with your own hands, you need to carefully consider the choice of insulation.

Secondly, it is a waterproofing film. It is she who is designed to protect the insulation from moisture entering the attic from the outside (outside), through the roofing material, and from the inside, through the floor.

What insulation for the attic is better to choose?

To insulate the attic of a house, you can use any heat-insulating material that has proven itself in practice.

Among the most popular materials: cotton wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and their varieties. It should be remembered that the attic insulation is selected taking into account the factors inherent in a particular house and taking into account the skill level of the one who will install the thermal insulation material.

The characteristics that determine the suitability of the insulation for use in a particular case are given in the table.

insulation	Rigidity (compressive strength)	Thermal conductivity	Hygroscopicity	Shrinkage	The weight	Installation on a sloping roof	Price
Mineral wool (basalt insulation)	-	-	+	+	-	+	100-140 rub/sq.m.
Glass wool (synthetic insulation)	-	-	+	+	-	+	70-80 rub/sq.m.
Penofol (foil insulation)	-	-	-	-	-	+	40-50 rub/sq.m.
Ecowool (cellulose insulation)	-	-	+	-	-	+	23-35 rub/kg
Polyurethane foam (PPU foam)	+	-	-	-	-	+	170-212 rub/kg
Styrofoam	+	-	-	-	-	-	2560-3200 rub/m3
Expanded polystyrene (foam)	+	-	-	-	-	-	3500-5000 rub/m3

The material was prepared for the site www.site

How to insulate the attic from the inside

Features of the use of heaters of different types and types.

Soft thermal insulation materials:

attic insulation with mineral wool requires a competent choice and application of films. Thus, it is possible to eliminate the main disadvantage of cotton wool - its hygroscopicity. The second, less significant minus - slight rigidity, is eliminated by reliable fixation of cotton wool, as well as the use of its denser varieties. Thus, sagging of cotton wool is excluded. Nevertheless, due to the environmental friendliness of the components, attic insulation with mineral wool from the inside continues to hold a leading position;

attic insulation with glass wool is rarely performed due to the fact that glass wool is an unsafe material from the point of view of environmental friendliness. Plus, it creates difficulties in installation;

insulation of the attic with penofol. It is used if it is necessary to insulate without significant losses in the height of the room. In order for penofol to perform its functions, the material must be oriented with a foil layer inside the room.

Rigid thermal insulation materials:

insulation of the attic with foam. An excellent and easy-to-install option, which has such a drawback as the incomplete fit of the sheets to the crate. In view of this, a space unfilled with a heater appears and the efficiency of insulation decreases. In addition, polystyrene is combustible and releases toxic substances when burned. And in conclusion, rigid heaters do not pass steam well. The popularity of foam is due to its low price;

insulation of the attic with expanded polystyrene (penoplex) is similar to insulation with foam. The difference lies in the presence of a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which, in fairness, does not play an important role in attic insulation. And also in the greater density of the material itself.

Note that breathable soft insulation will be a good option, if necessary, insulate a wooden attic.

Sprayed thermal insulation materials:

attic insulation with ecowool. The material is 80% cellulose and 20% wood. It contains a natural antiseptic. This is a completely eco-friendly material;
attic insulation with polyurethane foam (PPU).

The widespread distribution of sprayed heaters is hindered by their high price, as well as the need to attract specialists and use special equipment. At the same time, as evidenced by consumer reviews, the price is justified by a high level of thermal insulation. After all, the sprayed material fills the smallest gaps and eliminates sources of heat loss.

The thickness of the attic insulation depends on: the type of roofing material, the height of the room, the presence of a heating system, the location of the insulation and its type.

Recommendation. If a chimney passes through the mansard roof, basalt wool should be used. It begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 ° C, and does not smolder like ecowool and does not melt like rigid insulation (polystyrene, foam plastic).

Waterproofing and vapor barrier under insulation

Since wool is the leader among materials for attic insulation, and at the same time it is hygroscopic, it becomes necessary to take care of the wool itself, protecting it with a film of hydro and vapor barrier. Otherwise, the wool will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties.

For insulation insulation are used:

isospan (20-25 rubles / sq.m.). The vapor barrier film (membrane) has a double layer and surface roughness, due to which condensate is retained;

polyethylene film (3 rubles / sq.m.). The most affordable waterproofing material in terms of price. But this film does not have the ability to pass steam;

waterproofing membrane (30-45 rubles / sq.m.). Many manufacturers offer membranes for roofing, which are distinguished by the ability to simultaneously retain moisture and pass steam.

penofol (40-50 rubles / sq.m.). Foil insulation.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology from the inside

Integrated thermal insulation provides for the following types of work:

insulation of the attic roof;
insulation of the attic ceiling;
insulation of the attic floor;
insulation of attic walls.

Each of the stages has its own characteristics, which we will dwell on in detail. Insulation of the attic from the inside is performed if the roof is already covered.

Attic roof insulation

It does not matter what roofing material the truss system is covered with. The main thing is that it effectively copes with the task of preventing water from entering the attic space. From the point of view of insulation, the type of roofing material does not matter - their thermal insulation properties are close to zero. This means that the most significant heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, from the roof of the attic floor, work begins on the insulation of the room.

How to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside - step by step instructions

installation of a waterproofing film or membrane. This is a film that prevents water from entering the insulation, but does not prevent moisture from escaping from it. Thanks to what the heater does not get wet. The film is mounted from the ridge to the eaves in such a way that water, if it gets through the roofing material or condenses on it, flows down the film to the outside. Before installing the film, it is important to treat the wooden parts of the truss system with a deep penetration primer;

air gap. It is obtained by arranging the crate. Allows the material to "breathe";

heater installation. Mineral wool (or hard insulation) is placed between the rafters of the mansard roof. If the pitch of the rafters is more than 600 mm. it is necessary to make an additional crate even before the stage of laying the waterproofing film.
Cotton wool is placed between adjacent bars or a metal profile end-to-end, so that there are no gaps. If any appear, you need to cut a piece of cotton wool and close the gap.

Masters recommend using mineral wool mats, and not roll material, because. they are more dense. It is also recommended to lay the cotton wool in two layers with an offset. In order for the cotton wool to sit tightly in the intended place, it can be strengthened with a rope or nails;

Advice. If the attic ceiling is insulated with a slope length of more than three meters, it is necessary to make wooden jumpers between the vertical bars of the crate. Because cotton wool can "slide".

installation of a vapor barrier film. The task of this film is not to let steam into the insulation. The optimal level of humidity is achieved by airing the room;
Note. To isolate the rafters, some craftsmen install a thin insulation between the vapor barrier film and the finishing material.

When laying the layers in a given order, it is important to ensure a reliable connection of the films and insulation to the ridge, valley, walls, window openings, etc.

finishing material. Most often, sheets of drywall, MDF or wood (board, lining) are used to finish the attic. The cladding material is attached to the truss system or profile frame.

Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space at the expense of the attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.

Peculiarities

The process of insulating the attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roofing device, as well as figure out whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic area, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations how a roof can be made:

Between the rafters and the crate there is only a ventilation gap. In this case, the roof is considered absolutely unsuitable for insulation. You will have to completely disassemble the roof structure in order to insulate it.
A polyethylene film is laid between the crate and the rafters, which acts as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof - fully prepared for subsequent work on its insulation.
A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the crate. An option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, the main feature is the readiness of the roof for further insulation.

heaters

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, cottage, cottage can be carried out using various means. There are liquid materials, and elastic, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before proceeding with the choice, be sure to pay attention to the design of the roof. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it's better to play it safe. The simplest example is the insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any heater is suitable for a simple gable structure, then far from everything for a broken one.

If you do not consider liquid heaters, then the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, dense insulation is presented in the plates, and fibrous in rolls.

It should be noted that for insulation from the inside, not all options available on the market are suitable. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need for leveling cold bridges.

Materials for internal thermal insulation should be considered in more detail.

Styrofoam

Ordinary foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made plates, which makes it convenient to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene belongs to budgetary thermal insulation solutions, it has many advantages.

So, polystyrene is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase the water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it with a special agent., which will clog the pores on the surface, and the water will simply drain over the foam plates.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam has a very low weight due to the presence of a large number of voids between the granules that make it up. This contributes to the fact that it will be possible to cope with the insulation work alone. Lightness has another advantage, which is to lighten the load on the roof structure.

Styrofoam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: you can cut the material, cutting out pieces of the right size, with an ordinary clerical knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages here. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, the foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Thirdly, polystyrene cannot be used to decorate wooden floors, since over time the tree will shrink, and gaps will appear between the foam plates.

How to insulate the attic with foam plastic is described in the next video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of the foam. The warming solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other mounting compositions, for example, PPU foam, is that it does not expand during the solidification process, retaining its original appearance and condition.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

Liquid foam is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction phase, but can also be applied after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of a dense counterpart, is almost at zero, which makes it mandatory to take care of decent roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, therefore, it copes with its main function - thermal insulation - perfectly well. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation with penoizol will be a worthy and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or foam

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of the installation. So, expanded polystyrene closes the rafters, which is why better tightness is achieved. Expanded polystyrene plates are easily fixed to each other with glue. Due to the low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, while it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.

If there are no communications to the attic, expanded polystyrene will be an excellent choice, especially when you consider that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal and any roof covering.

mineral wool

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to foam. This material refers to rolled, which is due to the convenience of laying heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which radically affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. This does not require any additional fasteners. it is enough just to cut the slabs of cotton wool 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not encroach on cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulation layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of environmentally friendly heaters. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. Also, it is better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from the surrounding street noise.

Read more about attic insulation with mineral wool in the next video.

glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but there is a difference. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. This is where fiberglass is used. Due to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has the best sound-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its operational properties.

Many fear that the use of glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a dwelling will lead to disastrous consequences. Actually it is not. If you correctly carry out all the finishing work, then no harm to health will be caused. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than styrofoam because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.

stone wool

Among all insulating wool, stone wool is more expensive than analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it is itself safe and practically devoid of the shortcomings inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, is not afraid of elevated temperatures, as it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

Stone wool perfectly retains all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other wools. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if it is compressed, it does not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs, which are easy to cut into the desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other cotton wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed, and then applied by scattering the material using special equipment. It is believed that in this way it will better clog all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.

There are two drawbacks here. First, you need to apply ecowool with the help of special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material also cannot be called democratic.

polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable spending on the purchase, it is easier to lease equipment - to rent.

The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, therefore, when working with the material, it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam, since it has a similar principle of operation. It expands in the same way when it solidifies, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which a cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature of it indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro and vapor barrier layers.

All this makes polyurethane foam an ideal choice, regardless of what material the roof and floors are made of. The best solution when working with him is to invite a team of specialists who will perform the installation in a few hours on their equipment, doing everything in compliance with the technology.

Penofol

Penofol is a one-of-a-kind foil insulation. It is produced in the form of polyethylene foam boards, covered with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat back into the room, so heat loss is kept to a minimum.

However, it is important to ensure that the foil side is turned inside the room and not outside when laying.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Due to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to assert the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since, with proper installation, it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself due to its special texture.

If you plan to operate the attic for permanent residence, then choosing penofol, you will not regret it.

Room preparation

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check if the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the area of the entire attic. If not, then you should not deal with warming - it will still be impossible to live here.

Next, dismantle all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. Installation of insulation will be carried out either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that the roof, which has smudges, must first be fixed, and only after that you can proceed to the insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition, have no gaps, except for ventilation.

vapor barrier

When creating an attic floor for winter living, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first thing to check is the presence of a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is mounted, even if they do not plan to use the space under it as an additional room in the future. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling roofing materials. Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

Various materials can be used to create a vapor barrier. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the specifics of combinations with insulating materials. All this must be borne in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.

In addition, it will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly discourage its use. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not "breathe" at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, the greenhouse effect. So, the condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, falls on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if in your house the vapor barrier is still made using plastic film, refuse to buy water-absorbing heaters, such as glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to break down and crack, so after a short period of time you still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.

glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, so it has received universal recognition. However, it is necessary to act here in two directions. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this guarantees reliable protection and an optimal microclimate in the attic. Above, between the roofing and the counter-lattice, a double layer of glassine should be laid.. Only then can the optimum effect be achieved.

Glassine is more needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any one can be chosen as an insulating material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not subject to attack by rodents. Both cotton options and penoplex are perfect.

Ruberoid

Roofing material has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. Nonetheless, if possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that the roofing material is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for hydro and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.

If it is decided to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good vapor barrier qualities from it. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same polyethylene film.

It should be borne in mind that condensation may accumulate on the roofing material from the inside, which will lead to wetting of the insulation. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in winter, and everything is planned to be redone in the spring), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing material.

Izospan

The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barrier due to the fact that it was designed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensate and further prevents it from getting on the heater. The two-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On the one hand it is smooth, and on the other - a little rough. On the rough side, drops of condensate linger and evaporate. With the help of isospan, they vaporize not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic.

Depending on the properties of isospan, markings differ. The most expensive, but materials with energy saving effect FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensate from rolling off and spoiling the insulation.

waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, not steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications, from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There is diffusion, superdiffusion, and also anti-condensate, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find, having disassembled the sheathing material, one of these membranes, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its qualities. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and a vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and the rafters.

The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensation and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side must be well protected from moisture. Only in this case, the variety will cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to consider the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the interior space. The number and thickness of the plates depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the plates depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the step between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then it will be necessary to independently prepare an additional crateto make the fixing of thermal insulation possible.

As for the sprayed heaters, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. Beforehand, it will be necessary to clarify such data as the estimated thickness of the heat-insulating layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Warming scheme

Since when insulating the attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the scheme of laying layers only for it.

Starting from the outside, the cake will look like this:

On top is the roofing material, which is not touched. Under it are a crate and a counter-crate, which serve as a frame.
Next comes a layer of hydro and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
A layer of insulation is laid out under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, an additional crate can be built here.
From the side of the room, a vapor barrier layer is attached to protect the insulation.
Finally, finishing is done.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate the attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the layout of the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

It is necessary to retreat a little from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to "breathe".
After that, the heater is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, as well as sprayed. How it is necessary to handle this or that insulating material is written in the instructions for it.
Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor must be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that is turned towards the insulation, and this should not be so.
The last step is finishing. There are many options to choose from, but drywall, clapboard, or MDF boards are usually purchased.

it is better to buy cotton wool insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they do not need time to “track down”;
to insulate the floor, you need to choose foam or other inexpensive material;
the insulation does not need additional fixing, however, if anything, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.

The attic floor under the roof of a private house has long been successfully used as a residential area, regardless of the season. Moreover, such premises are highly sought after, as they give their owners a certain privacy along with complete comfort. In this material, we will talk about how to insulate an attic room, describe the main stages of work, as well as what materials will be required.

Since the attic is considered a full-fledged living space, there are a number of arguments in favor of its insulation:

the presence of additional full-fledged living space in the house;
reduction of heat loss through the space under the roof;
saving materials for the construction of a separate floor;
stylish look of the house.

Of course, attic rooms have some drawbacks, among which are the wrong relief of ceilings and walls, as well as the need for additional insulation work. However, if you approach the process creatively, all the shortcomings can be compensated.

Preliminary work

All attic rooms are characterized by an oblique ceiling. At the same time, the height of such a floor should start from 2.5 m. Such standards are indicated in SNiP 2.08.01-89 "Residential buildings". Small deviations from the norm are permissible only in areas whose size does not exceed 50% of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

The attic has the following characteristics:

There is a direct relationship between the material from which the building is built (brick, cellular concrete or wood) and the size of the heat loss.
Communications in the attic room will be located in the same places as on the lower floors. Therefore, the organization of space will depend on this.
The shape of the attic roof can be single, gable or broken.
The supporting structures inside the attic can be made of wood, reinforced concrete or metal.
The size of the attic will match the area of the house. If the walls go beyond the main building, then special supports are installed under them or a cantilevered removal of the ceiling between floors is made. See also: "".

Therefore, when deciding how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, you need to proceed from the described characteristics.

As a rule, insulation work in apartments and private houses is carried out from the outside of the building in order to move the freezing point outside. However, insulating the attic of a house from the inside is a fairly common practice, since all surfaces that need to be sheathed with insulating material are located inside. This refers not only to the attic roof, but also attic insulation: floor, walls. The only exception is the pediment. And its insulation is carried out simultaneously with the entire building, or in the process of laying the attic insulation.

Conditions for thermal insulation

There are two conditions that will affect the amount of heat loss and the comfort of staying in the attic room:

The type of insulation material that will determine how quickly the heat can leave the room.
The presence of a waterproofing film. This layer will prevent moisture from penetrating the insulation from the space under the roof and under the floor.

The best options for insulating materials for the attic

To insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, you can take almost any material that has positive reviews. In particular, polyurethane foam, cotton wool or foam plastic, as well as their analogues, are in the greatest demand.

Nevertheless, when choosing an attic insulation from the inside, it is worth taking into account the practical construction skills of the performer, as well as the characteristics of a particular residential building.

Materials for internal insulation of the attic room

There are quite a lot of different materials with which you can do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof from the inside, and its decoration. The method of installation of each of them depends on their characteristics.

Soft materials for thermal insulation include the following types:

Mineral wool. In combination with this insulation, it is necessary to use high-quality waterproofing films that will compensate for the hygroscopicity of mineral wool. To avoid sagging pieces of cotton wool, it must be securely fastened and a material with a denser structure should be used. Since mineral wool is environmentally friendly, it is most often used for thermal insulation of attics.
glass wool. This type of material is considered environmentally unsafe, and also quite problematic in terms of installation. For these reasons, it is rarely used.
Penofol. This type of insulation is used in rooms where it is necessary to maintain height as much as possible. Penofol should be laid with the foil side inside the room.

Rigid insulation materials include:

Styrofoam. Although it is quite simple to insulate the attic with your own hands using foam, it will not work to lay it tightly to the crate. Consequently, gaps are formed, which lead to heat loss. The disadvantages of the material include combustibility, as well as toxicity during combustion. In addition, it is practically vapor-tight. The high demand for this heat-insulating material is explained by its low cost.
Expanded polystyrene or foam. This material is similar to foam, and the only difference between them is in the fasteners. Such special fastenings, in essence, do not improve the thermal insulation qualities of the material, however, it is somewhat denser than foam.

If we consider the question of the best option for insulating materials for a wooden attic, then it is better to opt for breathable soft insulation.

Insulation of the attic wall can also be performed with sprayed types of heat insulators:

Ecowool. The composition of the insulation contains 20% wood chips and 80% cellulose. This material is considered absolutely environmentally friendly, and it is especially valued for the presence of a natural antiseptic in the composition.
Polyurethane foam (PPU).

The cost of insulating materials mounted by spraying is quite high. In addition, special equipment is required for their application. However, the quality of the heat-insulating layer is at a very high level, since the material penetrates into all the cracks and prevents heat leakage.

Please note that the thickness of the insulation layer will depend on several factors: the height of the attic, the type of roofing, the type of insulation material and its location, as well as the presence of a heating system.

It is worth noting that the best material to insulate the attic roof from the inside with your own hands, provided that the chimney passes through it, will be basalt wool. Its melting point is 1000℃, it does not smolder or melt.

Materials for hydro and vapor barrier

To insulate the roof of the attic from the inside, do-it-yourself mineral wool is mainly used, which tends to accumulate moisture. If you do not protect the material with films for vapor and waterproofing, it will quickly get wet and cease to perform its functions.

To isolate the material for insulation use:

Izospan is a two-layer membrane for vapor barrier, the rough surface of which allows to retain condensate.
Polyethylene- a film that performs a waterproofing function, but does not let steam through - the cheapest of the materials.
waterproofing membrane. Quite often you can find roofing membranes that serve as waterproofing and are vapor permeable at the same time.
Penofol. Insulating material with a foil waterproofing layer.

The method of performing insulation from the inside of the attic

In general, the attic insulation technology from the inside includes several stages:

Roof insulation work.
Ceiling insulation installation.
Floor insulation.
Wall insulation.

It is worth noting that internal insulation work is carried out in cases where roofing has already been laid on the roof (read also: ""). Let's take a closer look at each of the stages of work.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the mansard roof

The main requirement for roofing is its absolute tightness, so that water does not seep into the space under the roof. The level of heat loss, as a rule, does not depend on the type of roofing material - by itself, it does not perform heat-insulating functions. In this regard, first of all, we insulate the roof of the attic with our own hands.

Let us describe in detail the technology of mansard roof insulation.

First of all, a waterproofing film or membrane is mounted. It will not allow moisture to penetrate into the insulation layer, but will not interfere with the removal of steam from it. The film is fixed along the entire length of the roof from the cornice to the ridge beam so that water or condensate flows outward along it. Before installing the film, the wooden structures of the truss system must be treated with a deep penetration primer.

A crate is attached over the vapor barrier, which creates a ventilation layer.

The laying of wool is carried out strictly close to the beams or profiles, without any gaps. If the width of the material is not enough to fill the space, cut an additional piece.

Please note that due to the high density of mineral wool mats, it is better to use it rather than rolled materials. In addition, the pieces are stacked in a double layer with an offset. Additionally, you can fix the insulation with nails or a cord. We recommend filling jumpers between the vertical laths of the crate in cases where the length of the slope exceeds 3 m in order to avoid slipping of the wool.

At the next stage, a vapor barrier layer is attached. It prevents the penetration of steam into the insulation. It is advisable to periodically ventilate the premises in order to regulate the level of humidity.

Some builders insulate the truss system with thin insulation material laid between the membrane and the finish.

In the process of laying vapor barrier and insulation, make sure that the layers are tightly adjacent to the window frames, walls, ridge run, valley and other elements.

Finishing, as a rule, is made of MDF, drywall, lining or edged board. It is attached to the profile frame or rafters.

Insulate the attic floor

The method of insulating the attic floor from the inside with your own hands will depend on the type of flooring used.

In reality, the overlap can be of the following varieties:

Reinforced concrete with self-leveling floors. In this case, you will need to lay the most durable and high-quality heat insulator. Experts advise looking at the side of foam plastics or polystyrene foams.
Reinforced concrete with wooden floors. In the case of this type of overlap, you can use both a rigid type of insulation and resort to laying basalt fiber.
Ceilings from wooden beams. Such an overlap will need to be covered without fail with a subfloor, on top of which it will be necessary to lay a heater, and after that - to equip the finishing floor. As a heater, you can use any type of thermal insulation, even expanded clay or sawdust.

In any case, do not forget to lay membranes or vapor barrier films (from below) and moisture insulation (from above), the only exception is expanded clay.

How to insulate the walls of the attic

If the walls of the attic are formed by the slopes of the roof, then it is not necessary to do the insulation of the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, since the roof has already been insulated. If the walls were built from any other building material, then they will need to be insulated. The methodology for wall insulation is the same as for ceiling insulation. Quite often, wall insulation is achieved through the use of cellular foam concrete. In this case, there is no need to use a layer of vapor and hydrobarrier, as well as to make a crate.

The pediment of the attic can be insulated both from the outside and from the inside.

Finally

Obviously, attic insulation is not a difficult process, so you can handle the entire list of work yourself, saving a significant part of the money. In addition, in this case, you will be 100% sure that the entire sequence of work will be carried out in strict observance of the construction technology.

In general, the attic, if it is properly insulated and put in order, can become an ideal place to relax, a second bedroom, a home bar and even a billiard room. But in order to do the design and work on the room as a whole, you need to take care of dryness and warmth in advance. One roof and an internal crate will not be enough here, which is why in this article we will analyze such work as warming the attic from the inside with our own hands.

Reliable attic insulation

So, depending on what stage of construction your house is at, the choice of the attic thermal insulation method, as well as the choice of the insulation itself, depends. The attic insulation scheme from the inside is drawn up at the design stage of the house and all the main points are immediately determined in it.

Attention! Despite the finished scheme and the purchased material, you can insulate the attic only after the construction of the house is completed.

In the event that you expect to use the attic as an attic, then it is not necessary to fully insulate it. It is enough to do floor insulation and its waterproofing. If this is a living room, then you can’t do without wall and ceiling insulation.

In addition, if your attic is located in a bathhouse, then you should take care of protecting it from moisture penetration from the steam room and washing room. Nobody argues that if the attic is used only as an attic, you should not deal with waterproofing, because the rafters and load-bearing beams are already protected from the harmful effects of corrosion. But if you plan to make a living room out of it, then you simply cannot do without high-quality hydro and thermal insulation.

Types of insulation

So, according to our idea, the attic will be a living space, and that is why the heaters below will comply with all sanitary standards. In addition, each of the presented materials is environmentally friendly and created on the basis of natural components.

So, the insulation of the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands should be made only from materials that have a hygienic certificate. It must necessarily indicate: the suitability of the material for this type of work, suitability for hygroscopicity and, of course, its thermal conductivity class.

Styrofoam. This material, according to many experts, is an option for the "cheap and cheerful" category. Let's start with the fact that polystyrene is combustible and cannot in any way be a safe material, secondly, it is toxic and poses a threat to the respiratory tract, and thirdly, it does not tolerate high humidity (its structure simply begins to collapse).
, this material is produced easily and quickly. Fiberboard provides excellent protection against street noise while being cheap and affordable.

Wallpaper is easily glued to it and facing panels are attached. The plates can be easily cut with an ordinary knife, and their fastening can be done with self-tapping screws or dowels. What is most interesting is that even one person can easily cope with the work!
This material is made easily and quickly. Fiberboard provides excellent protection against street noise while being cheap and affordable.
Minvata. At the moment, this is the most popular and best option for attic insulation. Mineral wool with a density of 18-45 kg / m³ based on basalt is environmentally friendly, is not eaten by rodents, has excellent thermal insulation properties and simply perfectly absorbs noise coming from the street.

If we compare it with glass wool, then mineral wool is the safest material that does not contain components that are dangerous and harmful to health. The structure of the mineral wool is a plate consisting of the smallest crushed fibers. The price for it is slightly higher than for glass wool, but this does not bother buyers at all.

Methods and types of attic insulation

So, how to insulate the attic from the inside, we seem to have figured it out, now we will try to answer the question - how to properly insulate the attic from the inside?

The following methods will help you understand this issue in more detail and choose the best option for yourself:

Laying insulation between the rafters. This method is the simplest and, accordingly, the most popular. It is quite easy to install the insulation even with your own hands, but you should not forget about such nuances as the adjoining of the material to the chimney, walls and windows.

Note! Also, do not forget about such an important concept as an air gap, which should not be more than 2 centimeters and be located between the hydro and thermal insulation under the roof.

The complexity of this type of installation lies in the fact that it is necessary to constantly monitor the insulation mats so that they do not sag. In addition, there is a possibility that after laying the plates may swell. Interestingly, in some cases, the thickness of the mineral wool can increase up to 30 cm!

If the depth of the rafters does not correspond to the thickness of the insulation (if the insulation turned out to be thicker), then they will have to be increased by nailing additional planks (linings).

Attic insulation with mineral wool

So, we have analyzed the methods of insulation, now we will try to answer the question - how to insulate the attic from the inside in more detail. Due to the fact that mineral wool is the most common and popular material among domestic consumers, we will consider attic insulation using this material as an example.

By the way! Pay attention to the fact that mineral wool is sold in vacuum packages and when you open the pack, each plate increases several times.

In the photo, a visual step-by-step instruction

Before work, make sure that the attic is well ventilated. As personal protective equipment, experts recommend the use of thin construction gloves and goggles. To protect your lungs, use a petal-type respirator - this will be enough to feel safe.

Conclusion

As it turned out, warming the attic from the inside with your own hands is not such a complicated process as it might seem at first glance. You may ask a question - what about the insulation of the attic with penofol from the inside? Why was this question not addressed? It's simple - the method of warming with mineral wool is the most common and popular, which is why we paid special attention to it.

A house with an attic is often the dream of every homeowner. In the attic room, you can equip both a bedroom and an office. But to create comfortable and cozy rooms, first of all, it is worth making repairs, including insulation of the attic from the inside.

Attic insulation is a responsible and time-consuming job. Of course, you can entrust this process to specialists, but you can insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

When performing various repairs, in particular, warming the attic from the inside, you should decide what this room will be equipped for. It should be understood that due to the lack of a “thermal cushion” in the upper part, which was replaced by skylights, the room is rather cold by nature. Based on this, the insulation must be of high quality.

And here some difficulties arise. Each building has its own individual architecture, it is necessary to take into account the shape of the roof and the physical characteristics of the material of the roof and walls. Difficulties often arise in the fact that the surfaces are uneven. And for the implementation of the discharge of condensate, it is necessary to make waterproofing. You should also take into account the fact that more heat passes through the end walls of the attic, which is why they also require insulation.

What insulation to choose for the attic

Having decided on the specifics of choosing a room, it is worth deciding on the choice of materials, namely, how to insulate the attic from the inside. So the choice of material can be influenced by some undeniable factors, namely:

roof parameters;
roof structure;
climatic features.

So, there are several types of materials that can be used to insulate the attic from the inside:

Styrofoam is one of the cheapest and most popular types of insulation material. Easy to install. However, its vapor permeability is significantly reduced. From this it can be seen that during the operation of this type of material, the room may be exposed to dampness, and as the rafters dry out, unwanted gaps may form;

Read the detailed instructions on how to insulate the attic with foam from the inside

Styrofoam. An analogue of polystyrene, but with slightly increased physical strength characteristics. It is quite durable, perfectly retains its shape, it is not afraid of high humidity and, very importantly, it does not burn. Special attention deserves the fact that a not very thick layer is required for insulation - 5-10 cm.

Mineral wool is an absolutely ideal solution in all its parameters. It has a high density, moisture resistant, has such a property as fire safety and weakly transmits heat. This material is more durable, and if we consider it as a sound insulator, then it is more effective. Cotton wool is able to withstand low temperatures. However, when working with it, special precautions must be taken into account;

Cellulose wool (ecowool) refers to a heat insulator made of non-dusty materials. It contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulation layer and the wood in contact with it. Ecowool is able to penetrate into the smallest voids, filling them. It is an eco-friendly material that can “breathe”, moreover, it is not afraid of moisture and does not support combustion. Ecowool is not harmful to health, unlike the same mineral wool, for example;
Polyurethane foam is applied by spraying on absolutely any surface. Using this material for attic insulation, you can create a monolithic layer without existing gaps;
Foil materials that function not only as a heater, but also work as a mirror reflector that prevents heat from escaping to the outside. To create the desired effect, this material should be deployed with an aluminum coating inside the room, while leaving a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

Of course, when choosing a material for insulation, the owner of the house has the last word. When working with any insulating material, safety precautions must be observed. Required: gloves, goggles and long sleeves.

Stages of attic insulation from the inside

The process of work on the insulation of the attic takes place in several stages, in addition to the choice of material:

Roof insulation;
Wall insulation;
Floor insulation.

Roof insulation in the attic

First, it is worth telling what the process of insulating a mansard roof from the inside should consist of. Stages of work:

Basic roof covering;
Waterproofing device;
Laying thermal insulation;
Vapor barrier;
Finishing work.

The initial stage, after the existing main roof covering, is waterproofing, which is laid along the entire height of the supports, from the bottom to the very ridge of the roof. Before starting the laying of the material, all wooden elements of the roof are treated with an antiseptic. In the presence of rotten and moldy parts, it is necessary to replace them. Knowing the coefficient of thermal conductivity, a decision should be made to eliminate possible heat losses, whether one layer of insulation will be enough or whether it is still worth laying a second layer. In the place where the insulation is laid to ensure ventilation, when installing this material, a gap is left between it and the roof. If the roof material is undulating (tiles, metal tiles), then the layer is left at least 2.5 cm. And if the roof is made of flat-form material (steel sheets, rolled materials), the space between the insulation and the roof should be doubled.

Thermal insulation is carried out by laying the selected material on top of the waterproofing layer.

The next step is vapor barrier. The material is a special film, which in appearance can be like a regular film, or it can be in the form of a membrane, foil or perforated film. The film is attached to the rafters with a construction stapler.

Room decoration. At this stage, the following happens: fixing plastic, drywall, lining, moisture-resistant chipboard, fiberboard or plywood sheets. At the same time, you need to fasten close to the vapor barrier, or you can on a thin-type crate from individual rails. Then you can, if necessary and desired, stick wallpaper, varnish or paint.

Wall insulation in the attic from the inside

Insulation of the attic walls is carried out when the roof does not reach part of the floor. So, when insulating walls, several steps should be taken to achieve the final result:

Wood treatment with antiseptic

Treatment of walls with an antiseptic, removal of dust, dirt;
Lathing of the roof surface from the inside with the help of beams or raw boards;
Waterproofing;
Laying a layer of the selected insulation;
Vapor barrier layer;
Wall decoration.

A distinctive feature of wall insulation work is the absence of battens, unlike the roof. The rest of the process takes place according to the same method as the insulation of the attic roof.

After treating the walls with an antiseptic, a vertical frame is arranged on the surface of the walls from a bar or raw board. The beam is attached to the wall with metal corners or dowels.

Wall waterproofing means laying material in the frame cells. After that, the first layer is formed from the selected insulation.

The vapor barrier layer is fixed on top of the first layer of insulation. The vapor barrier material is a film, as mentioned above, which should fit snugly, without any sagging.

Wall decoration is carried out using facing materials: OSB boards, drywall, which are mounted on a frame made of a metal profile or wooden bars.

Floor insulation in the attic

Basically, the attic floor is made in the form of a wooden structure. And to create complete and final comfort in the room, the floor must also be insulated. And the floor insulation also takes place in several stages:

Removing the old floor covering;
Inspection of logs, detection of damages and defects, elimination of defects;
Fixing the vapor barrier film;
Laying the first layer of insulation;
Laying the second layer of vapor barrier;
Log sheathing.

The vapor barrier film is mounted along the entire length and width of the insulated surface. The film is attached with a construction stapler. In this case, the film must exactly repeat all the lines of the log system, closely adjoining the beams.

The first layer of insulation must be laid between the lags. This is followed by the stage of laying the vapor barrier layer, which will become the second layer. Accordingly, the vapor barrier material is laid on top of the insulation.

And the final stage will be facing the log with the help of front coverings made of OSB boards, or wooden boards.

Video to help: we insulate the attic with mineral wool Isover (Isover) Profi 100 mm and Ursa Pure One 50 mm

The video shows the process of insulating the attic floor from the inside with two heaters based on mineral wool - Isover (Isover) Profi 100 mm and Ursa Pure One 50 mm. The total insulation layer is 250 mm. To fix the insulation between the rafters, a crate is used (beam 50 × 40 mm), and garden twine is additionally used to reduce the sagging of the mineral wool, which is attached to the bar with a stapler.