Warming a house from a bar from the outside: video and installation rules. The procedure for insulating a house from a bar: what you need to know about facade work

Every year individual construction is expanding. More and more people want to live on earth, alone with themselves and nature. The share of environmentally friendly construction is gradually growing. Every eighth private house is built entirely of wood. 33% of them are from timber. Warming a house from a bar is becoming increasingly important. It allows not only to provide thermal comfort, but also to protect structures from the damaging effects of the environment.

Do I need to insulate a house from a bar? Two positive points of thermal insulation have already been named. They apply to both external and internal insulation. So why is it still recommended to insulate a log house from the outside?

Let's answer this question with 3 points:

Insulation of a log house from the outside moves the dew point outside the interior and enclosing structures, thereby extending the life of the structure.
Insulation of the log house from the outside allows you to radically change the facade of the house, giving it any conceived look.
The process of warming a house from a bar from the outside allows you to save the much-needed internal usable area.

Choosing a material

Rising energy prices have prompted many owners of private houses to think about the need to reduce the cost of heating and cooling the interior of the house. Demand determines supply. Manufacturers of building and finishing materials have developed and launched the production of a wide range of thermal insulation compounds.

Before insulating a house from a bar, it is necessary to choose a heat insulator.

Their main types are:

fibrous;
polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam.

Each of them has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages when insulating a wooden house from a bar. All of them have a low coefficient of specific heat capacity, a long service life.

fiber thermal insulator

To insulate walls from a bar, roll and slab materials are produced from artificial, natural, stone fibers. The latter are made from basalt (volcanic stone) by melting and passing the melt through a centrifuge. The resulting fibers are treated with an adhesive composition and pressed. The resulting sheets are cut to size.

It has the following advantages when you need to insulate a house from glued laminated timber:

high vapor permeability;
low biological and chemical activity;
ecologicaly clean;
not combustible, does not spread flame over its surface.

The disadvantages include high water absorption capacity, destruction under constant exposure to wind loads. When insulating profiled timber, it is necessary to provide for steam, hydro, and wind protection.

Expanded polystyrene heat insulators

It is best to insulate a log house from the outside with the arrangement of a “wet” facade using polystyrene foam thermal insulation. Heaters of this type are obtained by increasing the volume of gas when the granules are heated in a confined space, followed by their connection using adhesives or temperature.

There are two main types of polystyrene foam:

foamed (polystyrene);
extruded (foam).

They are characterized by:

low degree of water absorption and vapor permeability;
high resistance to compression;
necessary biological and insufficient chemical passivity;
high fire risk.

Destroyed by exposure to sunlight. Before insulating a timber house from the outside, it is necessary to provide for a ventilation gap device.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is obtained by mixing two components in certain proportions. Application of the composition is impossible without the use of special equipment and trained personnel.

The resulting layer has extremely high adhesion to any building material, fills all the gaps in the structure, is a continuous coating without the formation of cold bridges. It has physical and chemical properties similar to expanded polystyrenes. Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is required to provide for an additional ventilation device for the interior.

You've heard the expression: "A tree breathes." This applies to products made from wood. Cells absorb moisture when it is in excess and give it away when the humidity level drops. This allows you to maintain the most comfortable relative humidity level of 55-56% in the house for winter living.

Basalt slab is the best choice

How to properly insulate a log house from the outside using mineral insulation?

Due to the “breathing” of wooden structures, mineral (basalt) insulation for a log house is considered the most optimal. It passes air well. It is installed close to the wall, thereby reducing the consumption of materials and the thickness of the "pie".

Consider how to properly insulate a house from a bar outside under siding in stages, as the most suitable and most technically complex technology.

The log house is insulated with 2 layers of thermal insulator. Lay them perpendicular to each other.

Insulation of the corners of a timber house is carried out with the same layer of insulation as the wall itself. We pay special attention to the insulation of window and door openings.

When insulating a house from a log, we close the resulting layer of thermal insulator with a waterproofing membrane, which at the same time plays the role of wind protection.

We fill a vertical counter rail 50 mm wide and siding high on the beam.

After installing the siding, it must be sheathed with additional elements.

Expanded polystyrene and "wet" facade

Before you insulate a log house from the outside with foam, you need to take care of the ventilation gap between the outer wall and the insulator layer. This must be done due to the low vapor permeability of this insulating material. The gap allows better removal of penetrating moisture without the formation of condensate on the surface of the wall, protecting it from decay.

Since the penoplex has almost zero indicators for vapor permeability and water saturation, protective membranes are not used when insulating the walls of the house with polystyrene foam.

Before insulating a log house, it is necessary to carefully treat the entire surface with septic tanks to protect it from insects and wood destruction processes.

We fix the plates using fasteners with a wide cap. The layers of the thermal insulator are laid in such a way that the top layer overlaps the joints of the bottom one.

After processing the polystyrene foam insulation with a primer, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on it with the help of an adhesive composition. On it, decorative plaster is applied, followed by painting.

With this technology of warming the house from the outside, the appearance of a house made of timber changes dramatically. It takes the form of stone, while acquiring additional protection, which can significantly increase its service life.

Polyurethane foam - reliable

Before insulating the log house by applying polyurethane foam, it is necessary to provide for additional (possibly even forced) ventilation of the interior.

How to properly insulate a house from the outside with polyurethane foam? This requires special equipment that allows the production of a two-component mixture in certain proportions under air pressure.

Non-compliance with the proportionality of the content of the compositions leads to a change in the properties of the final product. Work must be carried out in the means of protecting the skin, respiratory organs and vision.

Before coating with the composition, guides are installed on the surface of the wall, on which the finishing will subsequently be fixed. Additional protection, sealing cracks, leveling the surface in this case for a house made of timber is not carried out.

The composition obtained as a result of a chemical reaction covers the surface with a durable carpet of insulation, perfectly retained on the wall surface during the entire period of operation, which can be more than 50 years. It is necessary to insulate the corners of the house with a thicker layer so that you do not have to reapply when they freeze. Such a thermal insulator is not afraid of either strong cold or sharp warming.

Finishing is installed without the use of protective membranes and films.

Before you insulate your log house from the outside with your own hands, decide on the choice of materials and technologies. The result obtained will please you with energy savings, an increase in the service life and a new facade.

Timber houses, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulating a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house from a bar Source nd-prime.by

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Russia is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was enough for good thermal insulation. Like today, the wood shrank over time, and gaps appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary tree moss was used to seal the cracks. He landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

In modern construction, issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. With insufficient cross-section, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the tree begins to dry out, which is why heat loss grows even more.

This is what a wall made of timber looks like after the wood has dried. Source bredmozga.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a timber house

Prudent owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house from a bar in order to spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of saving heat is offset by the disadvantages:

Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of the frame under the insulation.
The heat-insulating layer hides the "living" wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
Due to the external winter cooling of an unprotected wooden wall, the dew point shifts to the internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

Video description

What happens to the wall with improper insulation from the inside - in the video:

Wall insulation from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often, they resort to it, bearing in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

The usable area of the internal space is saved;
Outside work does not change the daily routine of the family.
The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden changes in temperature, which prolongs the life of the building.
The correct selection of materials does not violate the microclimate of the rooms (the house "breathes").

You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
Easy to control the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out in good weather - it makes no sense to do this in cold and damp conditions.

Three main methods of insulation

Any wall insulation involves attaching a layer of insulation to it and structures holding it. For this, several methods have been developed, and each of them has its own advantages and features of execution.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective "pie" Source lestorg32.ru

Hinged ventilated facade

By itself, this technology was developed as a decoration of the facade of the house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
Ease of installation.
A wide choice of facing material of various flowers.
The dew point moves outward.

Mounting technology:

The lumber is pre-treated with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
Outside, a crate is attached to the house, on which a sheet of hydro and wind protection is stuffed. In the space between the slats of the crate, air circulates freely, due to which condensate or moisture that has appeared in another way will be removed from the insulation.
The crate is leveled with a plumb line.
Next, slats are stuffed onto the crate, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. Accordingly, the height of the rails is also selected - for central Russia it is recommended to use a heater with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding Source builderclub.com

Insulation mats are laid between the slats, fixing with dowels.
Then, bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats, so that there is a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Facing (siding) is mounted.

Insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and a decorative coating is also used on the outside. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then the whole house is covered with siding in any case.

The nuances of installation, taking into account the selected material:

The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
The distance between the slats is set 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
According to the technology, cotton wool slabs are mounted at a distance; polymer plates are placed in cells, the joints are treated with mounting foam.
When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally mounted on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Sheathing a log house with siding Source stroyfora.ru

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with mounting foam. The difference here is that the amount of material needed to create a thermal insulation pad is much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Technology advantages:

Easy to use and high speed of application of the heat-insulating mixture on large surfaces.
Excellent adhesion (adhesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
Environmentally friendly, fire resistant and anti-rot of the treated surface.

Insulation spraying can be carried out on any prepared surface Source keeninsulation.com

Types of heaters

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features that must be considered when choosing:

Mineral wool

It is produced in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-combustible, have chemical and biological resistance. Another advantage of the material is vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

By cons - cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry out completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually it is easier to insulate a house from the outside with mineral wool using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in the crate Source remontik.org

Styrene boards (polystyrene, polyurethane foam)

Styrofoam is the cheapest option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are combustibility (releases toxins during combustion), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Video description

In this video, we will dwell on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. How safe is styrofoam?:

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (plates), does not absorb water. Disadvantages: highly flammable and at the same time releases harmful toxins.

Styrofoam and polystyrene are outwardly similar Source lineyka.net

Environmentally sprayable styrenes (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such heaters are expensive due to the method of application; large surfaces require special installation and experience. For small areas of complex shape (crevices near pipes, windows, between plates), polyurethane heaters in cylinders are offered.

"Warm" plaster

A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which does not ignite, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, well protects the facade from moisture and is easily repaired.

Subtleties of wall insulation from timber

Insulation of a log house outside under the siding cannot be started whenever you want - before that, the following conditions must be met:

Work on the installation of insulation can begin only after the complete shrinkage of the log house - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
It is forbidden to carry out work if the facade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: close up not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, mounting foam or similar materials.
Good thermal insulation of a log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how the heat-insulating material will be combined with the wood of the beam itself.
To choose a suitable insulation, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the log house and the seams.

Some heaters are installed without crates. Source obustroen.ru

Tools and materials for building thermal insulation

To insulate a house without being distracted by the search for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

bubble or laser building level, you can still use a plumb line;
tape measure, square or ruler made of metal;
hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
facade dowels, adhesive tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
dry slats, insulation;
vapor and waterproofing film;
finishing material.
wood preservative sprayer

Treatment of a wooden wall with an antiseptic Source mybesedka.ru

On our website you can find a list of companies, home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition Low-rise Country.

The general course of the installation of thermal insulation

All steps for warming a house from a bar by any of the methods described are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

for ventilation of the first layer of insulation, a crate of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
a frame is stuffed onto the crate for fixing the insulating material
installation of a heater;
installation of additional battens and frame (if double insulation is used);
laying an additional layer of heat insulator;
fastening of a diffusion membrane, which will provide hydro and wind protection.
installation of facade finishes (lining, siding) with an air gap.

Of course, in the end, the insulation will hide the beauty of the natural material, but finishing the house with a block house can be a way out.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber according to the rules will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, there are a fairly large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if there is no proper qualification, then it is better to order the work to professionals, because it is much more pleasant to control the construction site than to climb walls on your own.

The thermal insulation characteristics of a beam with a section of 150x150 are insufficient to ensure comfortable living in the house during the cold winter period. In this regard, the owners of such a building inevitably ask themselves the question: how and with what to insulate the house? According to the rules of heat engineering, external insulation is much more efficient than internal insulation. Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of choosing the best heat-insulating material for specific conditions, suitable for use outside the house, and find out all the nuances of installation.

At the stage of preparation for the external insulation of a wooden building, several issues must be resolved:

which insulation is better;
how to lay it correctly;
how to prepare the walls of the house.

Regardless of which thermal insulation material is chosen, the walls of the 150x150 timber must be prepared. First of all, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection and make sure that there are no signs of rotting wood, insects harmful to the tree, the need for additional fastening of the timber and finishing elements of window and door openings.

At the same time, they decide whether the walls need caulking. If empty slots are noticed, then before laying the insulation they must be filled with the appropriate material. Caulking walls is a simple, but time-consuming process. Knowing the rules and tricks of this business will greatly simplify its implementation.

To eliminate the gaps between the bars, three materials are traditionally used:

tow;
jute;
lnovatin, etc.

In the process of work, the craftsmen use special wooden devices in the form of blades with a thin blade. But for an independent task, an ordinary narrow spatula is also suitable.

stretching insulation;
insulation kit.

The first is optimal if the gaps are not wide, the second is suitable for deep and long gaps. When caulking, the tow fibers are distributed along the gap in an even thin layer, while driving it into the gap with a spatula. The work must be done slowly and carefully, trying to seal the insulation as efficiently as possible. Tow is driven in in layers until the gap is filled.

Laying in a set is carried out as follows: bunches or balls are formed from tow, corresponding to the size of the gap, and they are driven into it with a spatula and a hammer. Regardless of the chosen method of caulking, work begins from the bottom of the wall.

Video - How to caulk a house from a bar

Video - Caulking at home from a bar

The choice of material for external insulation of a house from a bar 150x150

The modern market offers many solutions for warming a wooden house. The choice largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. For southern latitudes, one insulation will be optimal, for northern latitudes, another. Therefore, when choosing a material, they are guided by its main characteristics:

coefficient of thermal conductivity;
compressive strength index;
frost resistance;
lifetime guaranteed by the manufacturer.

For external insulation of a house made of timber 150x150, the following heat-insulating materials are suitable:

fibrous (glass wool, mineral wool, stone wool, basalt wool);
sheet foam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
foamed polyethylene;
sprayed polyurethane foam;
windproof plates Izoplat.

Mineral wool and its analogues

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one significant drawback: hygroscopicity. Since wet insulation is not able to retain heat efficiently, the use of mineral wool in rolls or slabs requires vapor and waterproofing of the walls and foundation of the house. This significantly increases the cost of its external insulation.

When choosing fiber materials, the following points should be considered:

the level of air humidity in the region of residence;
cladding of the outer walls of the building.

The second requirement is due to the fact that the laying of mineral wool and its analogues requires wall cladding according to the ventilated facade technology. Therefore, saving on finishing work will not work. If there is any doubt that the mineral wool under the cladding will remain dry, it is better not to use this material.

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

There are many myths about this heater. One of them convinces that polystyrene releases styrene, harmful to humans, into the environment. All these claims have long been debunked by laboratory studies. The safety of foam plastic is confirmed by the sanitary and epidemiological conclusion 63.01.06.224.P.001216.04.03 dated April 7, 2003, Conclusion 01-188 dated 04.25.00 Research Institute of Hygiene and Health Protection of Children and Adolescents of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences, Conclusion No. 03 / PM8 of the Moscow Research Institute of Hygiene named after . F.F. Erisman. Therefore, this insulation can be fearlessly used not only for external, but also for internal insulation.

When choosing foam, it is important to pay attention to its density. The higher it is, the lower its thermal conductivity. There is an opinion that the density of the foam corresponds to the digital indicator of its brand. But this is only partly correct. For example, the density of C-25 foam varies between 15.1-25 kg/m3. In choosing a material, a table of its characteristics will provide significant assistance.

For external insulation of a house from a bar 150x150, you can use foam of any brand. Manufacturers offer canvases of different thicknesses: 5 cm and 10 cm. When choosing a material, you need to take into account that for facade insulation it is better to buy PSB-S-35 foam plastic with a thickness of 5 cm than PSB-S-25 foam plastic with a thickness of 10 cm. The cost of these materials almost the same, but the thermal insulation effect will be more significant.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

XPS has almost the same chemical composition as Styrofoam, but has lower thermal conductivity, higher flexural strength, and lower water absorption. A significant difference in characteristics is due to the methods of production of these materials.

EPPS is ideal for external insulation of a house made of timber 150x150. The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively high price. A 2 cm thick extruded polystyrene slab is comparable in thermal conductivity to a 3 cm thick foam sheet and a 4 cm thick mineral wool layer.

XPS can be glued to the walls of the building, but you need to choose the right glue. For materials based on styrene (EPS and foam), the following compounds cannot be used:

based on acetone and any solvents;
petroleum toluene;
based on water;
ethyl acetate.

Styrofoam insulation prices

Styrofoam insulation

This material has long proved in practice its suitability for thermal insulation.

Foamed polyethylene has a lot of advantages. Among them:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
elasticity;
a light weight;
low cost.

When choosing this material, you should be aware that it can be of the spirit of the types: PVD (high pressure) and HDPE (low pressure). Foamed polyethylene products come with one-sided and two-sided foiling.

The following are the most popular:

Foamed polyethylene materials are advantageous in that they do not require a vapor and waterproofing layer. This is due to their absolute non-hygroscopicity. Therefore, when sheathing the outer walls of a building with foamed polyethylene, you can save a lot.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam differs from the above materials not only in the way of laying.

It has many other benefits:

extremely low thermal conductivity: 0.023 - 0.03 W / m * K (this is significantly lower than that of mineral wool and polystyrene);
environmentally friendly;
does not require a vapor and waterproofing device;
there is no need for additional fastening of the heat insulator, as the foam adheres firmly to the wall when applied;
when applied, it forms a continuous layer, excluding the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges.

All this makes sprayed polyurethane foam the best material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only drawback of this method is its high cost. Spraying PPU requires not only special equipment, but skills to work with it. Therefore, you will have to pay not only for the material, but also for the services of specialists.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Scandinavian wind protection boards are made from softwood fibers and are 100% natural heat-insulating material. In their production, no chemical binders, no glue, no resins are used. At the same time, a 12 mm thick slab is equal in terms of thermal insulation to 44 mm of wood.

The main advantages of Izoplat windproof plates:

Tightness. Due to their elasticity, the plates fit snugly against the walls, and breaks in the windproof layer are excluded.
Thermal insulation. It will not shrink during the entire service life and guarantees reliable insulation of the house during the entire service life. Coefficient. thermal conductivity of the material λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/mK
Vapor permeability. The plate is a "breathable" material, due to which excess moisture leaves the house and mold and fungus do not form in the walls.
Resistant to atmospheric moisture. The plate is impregnated with paraffin, due to which no precipitation, dampness and temperature changes are terrible for it.
Soundproofing. A windproof slab of even minimal thickness will provide sound insulation of about -23 dB.
Simple and fast installation. The size of the plates is 2700x1200x12 mm, the weight is only 9 kg.
Guaranteed service life of more than 50 years. Actual use over 70 years.
Eco-friendly and 100% natural like wood itself.

Isoplast prices

Isoplast

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house are built of a very hygroscopic material. The tree is able to absorb moisture and deform at the same time. Despite the fact that the construction timber has a low moisture coefficient, the impact of the environment inevitably changes this indicator. Therefore, in wooden houses, deformation of the walls can be observed. It is insignificant, but inevitably affects the geometric shape of window and door openings.

When externally insulating a house from a 150x150 timber, it must be taken into account that a ventilation gap is required through which moisture will exit the wood. Thus, no damage will be done to the walls. Above the insulation, laid on the outside of the building, it is necessary to build a facing layer. Therefore, the best technology for insulating a house from a bar is a ventilated facade.

Its schematic diagram includes the installation of several layers of materials (the direction from the wall to the street):

wall;
crate (frame);
heat insulator;
vapor barrier membrane;
ventilation gap;
facing material.

Regardless of which insulation will be used, it is necessary to observe the sequence of laying materials and do not forget that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm wide between the heat insulator and the cladding.

Installation of a ventilated facade, installation of lathing and insulation

Step 1: Mounting the spacers

For the installation of spacers, use bars with a section of 20/20 mm or an edged board with a thickness of 20-25 mm. For fixing wood, nails or wood screws are used. The optimal step is 60-80 cm.

Step 2: Installation of the vapor barrier membrane

The vapor barrier film is sold in rolls. The laying of the canvases starts from the bottom of the wall and gradually moves up. The vapor barrier is fixed with a construction stapler with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Prices for material for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material

Step 3: framing installation

The same material is used as in the construction of the 1st tier: bars or boards, but the thickness of the lumber should be different: 5-10 cm and correspond to the thickness of the selected insulation. Boards (bars) are not fixed horizontally, but vertically. It is important to consider that the distance between the racks of the crate must correspond to the width of the insulation.

Step 4: laying the heat insulator

In the space between the racks of the 2nd tier of the crate, mineral wool sheets or foam sheets are laid. They are attached to the wall of the house with plastic dowels with a wide dish-shaped hat.

Step 5: Installing the Windproof Membrane

The windproof film is laid in the same way as the vapor barrier. It is attached to the crate with the help of counter-rails.

Step 6: installation of facing material

As a finishing material can be used:

metal or vinyl siding;
front cement-shaving panels;
lining.

Prices for facade panels

facade panels

High-quality external insulation of a house made of timber 150x150 will provide a comfortable microclimate in residential premises and will reduce the cost of heating the building.

Video - How to insulate a house from a bar outside

Video - Warming the house with mineral wool

The reason for the high heat loss of wooden houses usually lies directly in the constructive solution of such a house, as well as in the thickness of its ceilings. The size of the beam, which is used for the construction of a wooden house, is usually 150 × 150 mm. We started building such houses using imported technologies, and where they came from, there is usually a milder climate and warm winters.

As a result of such a construction, we can observe the following:

on the one hand, the construction of such a building is extremely cheap;
on the other hand, huge heat losses, and, as a result, huge consumption of electricity and gas.

However, these shortcomings can be very easily removed, the main thing is to have the desire, skillful hands and knowledge. The most optimal solution is to insulate the house from a bar 150x150 from the outside. How to insulate a house from a bar, we will describe in detail in this article.

External insulation of a house from such a bar must be carried out in several stages:

decide on a heater;
calculate the exact amount of materials;
install a heat-insulating layer;
carry out the finishing of the facade.

Choosing a heater

For external insulation of a wooden house made of timber 150x150, two materials are perfect:

expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) in the form of sheets;
mineral wool.

Insulating a house from a bar with foam plastic is perhaps the most popular method of outdoor insulation. However, its use is not entirely rational, and we will explain why.

Styrofoam has a thermal conductivity of about 0.082 W/m2. At the same time, for mineral wool it is 0.036 W/m2. It conducts much more heat, therefore it loses significantly to mineral wool. This drawback can be eliminated by applying a thicker layer of foam, but this is not the only thing. This material is great for thermal insulation of brick or stone houses, but not wooden ones. The main reason is ventilation rates. Mineral wool has an excellent ability to pass air, while perfectly insulating the room.

Styrofoam cannot "boast" of such properties. It perfectly protects from the cold, but does not allow air to circulate freely, and the main feature of wooden houses made of timber is the need to “breathe”. After insulation with foam plastic, after some time the wooden walls will begin to become covered with fungus and mold, rot and collapse. After all, the formation of condensate in cold winters is simply inevitable.

Therefore, mineral wool remains the best choice for a wooden house.

We calculate materials

plates;
special rolls.

The most suitable form for insulating a house from a bar is the form of a slab. This is explained by:

plates are more convenient for walls;
they are more economical;
hold better on vertical surfaces.

Rolled mineral wool is usually used on uneven surfaces. The thickness of one plate is usually 5cm. To correctly calculate the insulation layer, there are many special formulas, but here is the simplest way:

if the walls are thicker than 20 cm and the temperature in winter does not fall below -20°C, then one layer of mineral wool can be used;

if it falls below -22-25°C, then you need to use two, in rare cases - three layers.

In addition to mineral wool, additional wooden slats will be required at the rate of:

for a single-layer insulation - 5 × 5 cm;
for multilayer - 5 × 10 cm.

You also need to buy a waterproofing plastic film, anchors, self-tapping screws and an antifungal agent. Also, to attach the film, you will need a special stapler with staples.

Tip: It is better to choose a fungus remedy that is complex, fire and bioprotective, which also provides protection from fire. For example, SENEG Ognebio, Guard or other.

We mount thermal insulation

Installation of the heat-insulating layer is carried out in the following order:

prepare the surface;
put the first layer of waterproofing;
we mount the crate;
install a heater;
We install the second layer of waterproofing.

At the preparatory stage, wood should be treated with the indicated means.

Important! Here you need to take this issue very seriously, because then there will be no access to the surface.

After that, you need to wait for its final drying, so it is better to carry out these works only in the warm season.

The waterproofing layer is a special polyethylene film or diffuse membrane. When using membranes, you need to put it on the right side, because it tends to pass air in only one direction. It is fastened with a construction stapler and must be placed with an overlap of about 10-12 cm. The joints are insulated with a special adhesive tape.

Tip: it is better to subtract 2 cm from the length of the slab, and so already mount the crate. This will provide a slight spring-loaded state of the plates and a more secure hold.

After that, mineral wool slabs are installed. They are very easy to process - cut and give them any shape. To fix them more securely, use special anchors made of metal or plastic. It is best to use an anchor with a wide head.

And the last stage - thermal insulation - the surface layer of the waterproofing film.

Finishing

After the work has been completed, a wooden crate is attached to the wall, which will serve as the basis for the future facade. To decorate the house, you can use a variety of materials:

lining;
boards;
siding;
planken and much more.

After external insulation, you must also take care of internal insulation, then your house will become as warm as possible in winter and cool in hot summer! Now you know how to insulate a house from a bar.

Andrew B.

I decided last year to warm up. The house was built as a summer option. But over the years we fell in love with our country house and live in it almost all year round. Gas supply was provided in our village and, having installed autonomous heating, we overwintered for two winters. The first one was more short-term, and the second lived constantly. But I can’t say anything, the bills for the consumed gas were impressive. Therefore, having studied the issue, proceeded to warming. On the advice of knowledgeable people, I purchased mineral wool Thermo-slab manufacturer Knauf 100mm thick.

I screwed a 100x50 rail vertically along the wall of the house with self-tapping screws, then I made a template to fit the width of the mineral wool slab and screwed the rest of the rails according to this dimension. This is not at all difficult to do. Using a screwdriver, pre-drill holes for the thickness of the self-tapping screw in a 100x50 beam, and then fix it on the wall of the house without any problems. Next, he laid the mineral wool. The thickness of 100 mm made it possible to lay the insulation in one layer, which significantly reduced the time of work. Then I attached the diffuse membrane with a construction stapler. From a 50x50 timber, I made a crate for fastening the siding. Fixed the siding.

Last year, the winter was not the warmest, but the number of cubic meters of gas consumed decreased noticeably. This winter, we practically live in a country house almost without visiting. The house fully satisfies our need for warmth.

Vladimir W.

Went to insulate the house. I found specialists who advised me to make insulation from polystyrene foam. I don’t know what they were guided by, and what I thought, but I agreed. I purchased the material, did not stint, took a very durable and expensive one. The team got down to business, and within a week my house stood like a thermos. This is exactly what happened, then I still did not understand that in two years the facade would have to be changed. So, after the indicated time, of necessity, I looked under the insulation and saw that the wood of the house was covered with black mold. I invited professionals who told me that due to the fact that polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture that came out of the house, condensation formed, which caused mold. I had to dismantle the facade from polystyrene and use mineral wool as a heater. Which definitely cost me a pretty penny.

Kum was going to insulate the house. We have the same ones with him, from a bar 150x150. We bought land together and built it together. So he comes and reports that he has found people, they will spray us with polyurethane. He says if there are two houses, they give a good discount.

I myself have long thought that it would be nice to insulate, then you can live in winter. Without hesitation, he agreed. And I don't regret it. Environmentally friendly, does not rot, spider bugs do not start in it, durable. Sheathed with siding, and everything is beautiful.

Video on the insulation of a house from a bar:

https://youtu.be/5eBgKZWcdpc

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Timber houses are warm, comfortable and energy efficient. They quickly heat up and retain heat, however, despite this, effective thermal insulation is an important issue that confronts the owner of the house. Why is it necessary to insulate a house from a bar 150x150 and how to do it? Consider all the options for thermal insulation of a timber cottage outside and inside.

Why insulate a house from a bar?

The construction of log houses in Russia has a long history. These buildings were rightfully considered the warmest and most comfortable. For another 30-40 years, such houses were built only from natural timber in the form of round or semicircular logs. The thickness of the timber reached 30 cm, and given that dry wood has excellent thermal insulation parameters, it becomes clear why timber structures were not insulated.

The main heat loss of a house from a bar

Today, 150x150 material is used to build a house from a bar. Such houses are environmentally friendly and comfortable, but their heat-preserving properties leave much to be desired. Competent insulation outside and inside will help to correct the situation and make the house warm.

Thermal insulation of a house from a bar from the inside

In central Russia and the southern regions, a house made of timber 150x150, which was not insulated, as a rule, does not freeze through. But living in such a house is uncomfortable. It is also worth noting that over time, the structure shrinks, cracks and cracks appear in the structure, as a result of which heat losses increase many times over. The internal insulation of a house made of timber can be carried out with various materials, which at the same time can serve as a finish. Such heat-insulating materials include cork insulation, “warm plaster”, etc.

Internal insulation has some disadvantages:

loss of usable area due to the installation of insulation;
a layer of thermal insulation hides wood walls;
condensation in the house due to a change in the dew point;
mold and wood decay.

Internal wall insulation with mineral wool

For these reasons, the owners prefer to insulate houses from a 150x150 bar from the outside. Thermal insulation can be provided for by the project and carried out immediately after the construction of the house. You can also insulate a cottage or a country house that has been in operation for a long time.

Interventional thermal insulation

Insulation of a house from a bar begins during the construction process, when interventional insulation is laid between the wood. 1-3 years after shrinkage of the structure, the walls of the cottage need caulking. Natural eco-friendly materials are used as interventional thermal insulation:

Moss. It has a thermal conductivity coefficient of up to 0.045 W / (m C), has aseptic properties, allows walls to “breathe” and protects wood from moisture and decay.

Hemp and linen tow. Thermal conductivity parameter up to 0.049 W / (m C). The material is resistant to moisture, provides reliable caulking of cracks and cracks.

Jute. Jute insulation is available in the form of strips. It is convenient to use, but the cost of jute is much more expensive than other materials for interventional insulation.

Jute - interventional insulation

Thermal insulation between the crowns is mounted using a special technology using thin spatulas and spatulas. This is a laborious process, but without high-quality caulking of the walls, it is impossible to proceed with external insulation.

The choice of external insulation

Warming a house from a bar 150x150 from the outside has the following advantages:

creation of a comfortable microclimate in the cottage;
lack of accumulations of moisture and condensate;
the usable area is not reduced;
the walls are ventilated, the house "breathes".

When choosing a material for external thermal insulation of a timber structure, it is necessary to give preference to heaters with good heat-retaining properties, durable, moisture resistant, and having a long service life.

The most popular insulation for timber houses are:

Mineral (stone) wool

Heat insulators based on mineral wool and basalt fraction have excellent heat saving performance and affordable cost. Also, the advantages of mineral wool include:

environmental friendliness, the material does not contain resins and toxins;
fire safety, mineral wool does not support combustion;
breathability, the walls of the house "breathe", condensation does not form;
a wide range of insulation, mineral wool is available in slabs and rolls of different thicknesses.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

A significant disadvantage of mineral wool is high water absorption. The insulation absorbs moisture and eventually loses its thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool can be used for thermal insulation of the roof and walls of a house made of 150x150 timber when creating an effective hydro-barrier.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam

Synthetic materials based on polymers with excellent heat-saving characteristics and minimal hygroscopicity. Polyfoams and XPS have the following advantages:

light weight, the insulation does not load the structure;
minimum water absorption;
low cost.

Numerous disadvantages of synthetic heaters do not allow their use for thermal insulation of the walls of timber cottages:

low environmental friendliness;
combustibility and release of toxins during combustion;
some types of insulation are the habitat of rodents.

Thermal insulation of the foundation and blind areas

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam slabs for log houses 150x150 are used for thermal insulation of the floors of the first floor, basement and foundation. When insulating these structures, environmental parameters are insignificant, but low hygroscopicity (less than 0.05%) is very important.

Sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU)

Liquid insulation PPU polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the heat-insulated surface using special generators. The insulation forms a dense porous shell without seams and joints, which does not absorb moisture and passes air well. The thermal insulation qualities of polyurethane foam are superior to the best heaters - mineral wool and polystyrene. At the same time, the PPU layer does not exceed 3-5 cm. Sprayed thermal insulation can be used for all structures: foundation, walls, basement, roofing, ceilings. Polyurethane foam is used for insulation outside and inside the house.

Advantages of PPU thermal insulation for a house made of timber:

no harmful toxins, chemical neutrality;
do not change the basic properties of wood;
low flammability and fire safety;
reliable insulation of interventional seams and sealing of cracks;
excellent adhesion to wood and other materials;
protecting the timber from decay.

The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is its high cost, so it is preferred to combine it with other types of thermal insulation.

How is the insulation of a house made of timber?

Regardless of the chosen heat-insulating material, a house made of timber 150x150 and wood structures of other sizes must be prepared for insulation. Preparation consists in eliminating cracks and treating the timber with an antiseptic, fire and bioprotection. For old houses, additional fastening and strengthening of windows and doorways is carried out.

Insulation of a house from a bar outside

Mounting the heat insulator on the walls is as follows:

A crate is attached to the prepared and processed wall - bars 20x20 or 15x15 mm. The fastening of the crate is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. The pitch of the crate is 0.5-0.7 m. A vapor barrier, for example, isospan, is laid under the crate. The film is overlapped and fixed with a crate.

Installation of thermal insulation is carried out on the finished crate. The insulation is laid between the racks of the second tier and attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Additionally, it is recommended to use glue for outdoor work, which is applied to the insulation board.

Windscreen installation. The windproof film is laid on the thermal insulation and fastened with wooden counter-battens, which replace the reinforcing mesh used to insulate stone houses.

Cladding installation. Various materials can be used as finishing for a house made of timber: block house, wall paneling, facade slabs, thermal panels, etc. The choice of materials for external cladding depends on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner.

Features of insulation of individual elements of timber houses

Thermal insulation of floors is performed with PSB-35 foam. Previously, a waterproofing film is laid on the logs. A cement-sand screed is laid on top of the insulation and the selected floor covering is laid. When installing the "warm floor" system, PE pipes are mounted in the screed according to the selected scheme.

Insulation of the floor of the 1st floor of EPPS

The roof of a house made of timber 150x150 is insulated with mineral wool slabs, which are attached between the rafters. From the side of the roof, the thermal insulation is covered with a membrane, and from the inside - with a waterproofing film.

If the house has 2 floors or a heated attic, then it is necessary to insulate the interfloor ceilings. To do this, vapor barrier films are used, on which loose insulation is poured into the interfloor space or rolled mineral wool is laid.

Insulation of the floor of the 2nd floor with mineral wool

The foundation, basement and plinth are insulated with foam plastic by gluing and attaching the plates to vertical surfaces. It is best to insulate the base immediately after its laying and waterproofing.

Heat saving in a house made of timber

In addition to internal and external insulation, a house made of timber must comply with the principles of energy efficiency. Elements of energy efficiency are incorporated into the construction of a log house at the design stage. The most popular and inexpensive energy efficient solutions:

Solar pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 30-50 cm are located on the roof and receive solar heat, which is directed inside the house using a set of mirrors. Sunlight diffused inside the room illuminates and heats.
Energy saving windows. The most heat-retaining are low-emission double-glazed windows that let short sunlight into the room and do not emit long-wave radiation emitted by heating devices.
Recovery ventilation. A heat exchanger built into the natural or forced ventilation system that delays the leakage of warm air.

Energy saving in a house made of timber 150x150

Competent and efficient insulation and the introduction of energy-saving technologies will make a house made of 150x150 timber not only comfortable for year-round living, but will also reduce heating costs. It is better to entrust the development of insulation projects and the installation of thermal insulation to professionals who will carry out a thermal calculation and determine the required thickness of the insulation, install it and provide a guarantee for thermal insulation work.