We will learn how to properly insulate a loggia or balcony, decide on the method and materials, and talk about laying electrical wiring.
Apartments with an additional area, which is a loggia or balcony, have a greater advantage in the eyes of apartment owners without these premises. But how are these very loggias and balconies used? In summer, you can put a light table and chairs there, breathe fresh air, or simply pull on clotheslines and dry your washed clothes.
How to insulate a loggia or balcony
- Glazing of the loggia
- Balcony floor insulation
- Electrician on the balcony
With the onset of the first cold weather, balconies and loggias become a place for storing various unnecessary belongings; with the first frost, they allow you to do without a refrigerator and store perishable products without any problems. But after all, square meters of living space are expensive today - why do we forget about “ownerless” premises that are easy to convert into living rooms using modern insulating materials? Without postponing for "tomorrow" we take up the insulation of the loggia and balcony - the guide in this article.
Issues that need to be resolved before starting work on the insulation of the loggia
First of all, you need to decide on the purpose of the future insulated room, whether it will be a study, a nursery or, for example, a room for sports training. To a large extent, this choice will depend on the size of the loggia, to a greater extent on its width - if it is less than one and a half meters, then it will be narrow for a study. The purpose of using the insulated loggia in the future depends on the scheme for constructing electrical wiring, the positions and number of electrical outlets, and lighting fixtures.
Important: completely abandon the idea of \u200b\u200bcombining the loggia and the room adjacent to it by removing part of the wall between them!
This is the outer wall of the building, which means it is a load-bearing wall, it is absolutely impossible to make any additional expansions of the opening in it, except, perhaps, the removal of the frame and the door frame (if the loggia is located behind the kitchen)! From time to time there are reports in the news channels about the partial destruction of entire entrances in multi-storey residential buildings due to the fact that the owner of one of the apartments intended to increase living space by demolishing part of the load-bearing wall - don't even think about it!
The reason why loggias seriously freeze in winter is connected with a large area of glazing in this room - after all, it was designed by architects for a clothes dryer, and not for living quarters. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here - to lay a part of the window opening with brickwork or facade drywall with a layer of insulation between its panels and the problem is solved.
But not everything is so simple - from the position of official government agencies, reducing the glazing area of the loggia is an interference in the architectural appearance of the building, which means it is not allowed. Here the glazing of the balcony is another matter, this is allowed, since it reduces the risk of fire from an accidental cigarette butt from the upper floors. In recent years, the supervisory state bodies have not reacted in any way to these same interventions in the "architectural appearance", but this does not mean that they will continue to pay no attention - it is better not to make serious changes in the existing glazing of the loggia.
Heat loss through loggia glazing can be significantly reduced by installing modern double-glazed windows and carefully sealing the joints between new window frames, as well as frames and adjacent walls.
It is necessary to think over the heating of the loggia - if, after warming, this room will be used as a full-fledged room in which a person has been present for a long time, then one cannot do without it. It is tempting to install a heating battery on the loggia, powered by a central system, but this is prohibited by municipal legislation.
The reason for the ban is this - when designing the building and its heating system, the loggias were not taken into account, so installing a heating battery in these rooms will lead to a lack of temperature in the system for heating other apartments. As you can see, the point here is not at all the theft of heat, and your attempts to include the loggia area in the total heated area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment are guaranteed to be refused in all instances.
Installing a water radiator on a loggia is allowed only if your apartment has an individual heating system, that is, it is heated from a boiler installed in it. There remains only the option of heating the loggia with electric heaters - infrared, convection or using an electric floor heating.
Preparation of the loggia (balcony) for insulation
At this stage, the loggia room is completely freed from everything that is folded in it - after cleaning it should become completely empty. The existing single glazed wooden frames must then be removed as they will need to be replaced with modern ones. If the balcony has a metal fence, it must be cut off (you will need a grinder), instead of the old parapet, lay out a new one, made of light ceramic bricks or foam blocks.
The new parapet can be brought out a little higher than the old fence, but not excessively - change the "architectural appearance". Completely remove the floor covering of the loggia, but if it is made with tiles, you can leave it by cutting out part of the tile under the brick parapet.
Measure the dimensions of the free opening above the parapet, and you need to remove them using the building level - with the same heights on opposite sides, there may be a serious horizontal difference, i.e. opposite points may be at different heights from the horizontal floor level. Measure the angles and take measurements from each of the walls, ceiling and floor, make a drawing with these dimensions - it will come in handy.
Glazing of the loggia
Depending on the purpose of insulation and the temperatures of the cold season, new frames can be with one glass or with double-glazed windows of two or three glasses with a heat-reflecting film inside. The frames themselves can be aluminum, wood or plastic, reinforced from the inside with a galvanized metal profile.
Measurements and recommendations for glazing the loggia will be given to you by the measurer of the opening for glazing, he will also perform all measurements - take into account at least one window in the total glazing area to ventilate the insulated loggia in the future.
Warn the measurer that you need free vertical sections between the extreme frames and the wall with a width of about 70 mm on each side, i.e. the frames on the sides of the glazed opening should not be located close to the walls.
Subsequent insulation of the walls of the loggia will require attaching a layer of insulation to them, a metal profile or a wooden beam and subsequent finishing sheathing, so the walls will move forward a little inside the loggia - if you install double-glazed windows close to the walls, then the side profiles of the frames will be “drowned” into the insulated wall. In the free areas between the frames and the wall, a beam will be installed and two layers of body insulation will be laid (before and after the beam).
In the process of installing new glazing, ask the performers to install a flashing on the outside - a special plastic tape, its width can be from 30 to 70 mm. And one more thing - despite the adhesive layer on the back of the flashing, you should fasten it to the frame with short self-tapping screws with a pitch of 500 mm, because over time the glue will dry and the flashing will certainly fall behind.
Balcony floor insulation
There are two main ways to do this: lay the insulation directly on the floor, lay the main coating on top; set the logs, on top of them is a heater and a rough base of the floor, on top - the main coating. If it is possible to simplify the task and not raise the floor on wooden logs, we only lay roofing felt, glue its joints with sealing tape and, if the floor height allows up to the threshold of the loggia door, we lay the base of the floor from chipboard or OSB boards, impregnated with drying oil and further drying. In this case, we will not lay the insulation, because there is no space under it.
As a heat and vapor barrier in the process of insulating a loggia or balcony, Penofol or Penoplex is most often used, the first insulation consists of polyethylene foam, the second is made of extruded polystyrene foam. Possessing good thermal insulation characteristics, easy to use and practically waste-free, both of these materials are not recommended for use in residential premises.
The reasons are as follows: despite the declared flammability classes, according to which these heaters do not burn and do not support combustion, their manufacturers at the same time prevaricate - "Penofol" and "Penoplex" smolder perfectly, releasing a significant amount of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. It is better to protect the residents of the apartment and the whole house as much as possible from such consequences of fire, using only mineral wool insulation.
So, for laying the insulated floor on the loggia, we need: roofing material, which is enough to cover the floor area of the loggia with a slight overlap on the walls; a roll of self-adhesive tape-sealant type "Guerlain"; wooden beam 50 mm wide for setting lags; rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm; flooring for the base of the floor (sheets of chipboard, OSB 20 mm thick); finished floors (linoleum, laminate).
The surface of the floor is cleaned of debris and dust, roofing material is laid on top of it in one layer. The joints between sheets of roofing material, between the roofing material and the wall adjacent to it are covered with a self-adhesive sealant tape. Logs are installed on top of the roofing material with a step of 500 mm, the beam under them is selected with the height that will allow the plane of the new floor to be brought to the level of the door threshold. When determining the height of the beam under the logs, consider: the thickness of the roofing material (usually 5 mm), the thickness of the slabs under the base of the floor, the thickness of the finishing floor covering.
Logs are set according to the building level, interconnected by bars of smaller thickness. Logs should not be fastened at this stage with high quality - their design will have to be disassembled for processing from decay. To obtain a perfectly horizontal floor surface, you will need to substitute small supporting boards under the logs; they should not be fixed to the floor, since the roofing material will be damaged.
In the design of some balconies, the slabs forming the floor are sloped towards the side of the fence to remove rainwater - horizontal differences of up to 90 mm are possible between the inside and outside of the floor slab. Keep this in mind when setting lags.
After the upper plane formed by the lags is brought to a horizontal level, it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure and treat the timber with oxol drying oil to protect it from decay. After waiting for the complete drying of the drying oil layer applied with a paint brush, we collect the logs again, this time they need to be fastened together with the greatest care. The slabs selected for the base of the floor also need to be covered with a layer of drying oil on both sides and along all ends.
Having completed the processing with drying oil, drying and setting the lags, we proceed to laying the mineral wool insulation, for which it must be cut into blocks according to the size of the compartments between the installed lags. Mineral wool is easily cut with an ordinary carpenter's saw; in the process of working with it, it is necessary to wear a bandage or a respirator - small particles of mineral wool will break off and rise into the air during cutting and laying.
At the next stage after laying the insulation, the base plates are installed on the logs, fastened to them with wood screws. Further flooring work at this stage is stopped - first, it is necessary to complete the insulation and finishing work of the ceiling and walls. The surface of the rough base of the floor for the time of work with the ceiling and walls is covered with two layers of PVC film, fixed along the contour with masking tape.
Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - the initial stage
Inspect the surfaces of the ceiling and walls for cracks and falling plaster, tile tiles, embroider all fragile seams, then fill them with mounting foam, seal them with sealant tape on top.
Hand the queues - the installation of a wooden beam with a section of 40x50 mm (pre-treated with drying oil) on the walls and ceiling. The beam is set across the walls and ceiling in increments of 500 mm, the beginning of the installation is at the junction of the planes of the ceiling and walls, i.e., at the junction points, the beam is attached to both the ceiling and the wall, close to each other. To fasten the beam, concrete screws with a pitch of 300 mm are used.
On this, work on the walls and ceiling is temporarily stopped - then the turn of the electricians.
Electrician on the balcony
As a rule, the old electrical wiring of the loggia is represented by an aluminum wire 2x1.5 in a common braid, designed for the simplest lamp in one 100 W lamp. For a full-fledged living space, such wiring is not suitable at all - we will pull a new one.
First you need to find out where the junction box is located in the room closest to the loggia - this question should be clarified with the electrician of the local housing office or get a wiring diagram in your apartment in this office. If for some reason you don’t want to contact the housing office, then you can stretch a new wiring from the electrical outlet closest to the loggia, punching a channel from it to the wall between the loggia and the room, then drill a hole through this wall. For a detailed description of this process, see our article.
For wiring to the loggia, you can use an aluminum cable, for example, APPV 2x2.5 or 3x2.5, if grounding is expected (most often there is no grounding in residential buildings). You can use a copper cable VVG 2x1.5 - it will be better. The electrical cable must be laid in a PVC corrugated hose designed to completely prevent fire from a short circuit.
Accordingly, the channel for laying the cable must have sufficient width and depth to accommodate the corrugated hose (a corrugated hose with a diameter of 16 mm is suitable for one cable). In turn, a drilled hole in the wall to the loggia should accommodate a metal tube through which, according to the rules for electrical wiring, a cable is passed to the loggia.
At the exit from the hole into the loggia room, the cable is again threaded into the corrugated hose and put into the tuso-soldering box of the indoor installation - the place for it is determined and prepared in advance, for its fastening it is necessary to install a wooden mortgage (a board of sufficient size), fix it to a wooden crate.
It is most convenient to place the junction box on the wall separating the loggia from the living room adjacent to it, 250 mm from the existing ceiling (without insulation and decoration). A corrugated hose with an electric cable inside is threaded between the wall and a bar attached to it, if necessary, holes are drilled in the places where the bar and wall fit, slightly larger than the diameter of the corrugated hose. Holes are drilled in the embedded boards for the output of the electrical cable.
Decide on the installation locations for electrical outlets and a switch, the installation location for a lamp (s), a heater hung on the wall - at each installation point of electrical installation products and electrical appliances fixed on the wall, it is required to install mortgages to which these electrical appliances will be attached in turn.
The cable at the installation sites of wiring accessories and in junction boxes is led out to a greater length than is actually necessary - by 70 mm, which will allow in the future to replace the electrical appliance if necessary. In no case should the bare ends of the wiring go beyond the limits of the wiring accessories and junction boxes!
Important: all switches and sockets mounted on an insulated loggia must be external installation only.
Important: connections of the electric cable supplying power from the living quarters to the loggia, with cables supplying power to sockets and switches, should be made in the junction box only through the DIN rail of the terminal block - no twists!
After completing the wiring, turn off the general power supply of the apartment and connect the wiring of the loggia in the junction box of the living room or in the outlet to which the channel was pierced. Connection in any variant (junction box or socket) is carried out via a terminal block (DIN-rail).
Please note that direct contact of copper and aluminum cables during twisting will cause heating of the aluminum wire, which can lead to a fire - mediation of a terminal block with steel contacts will eliminate heat and fire hazard. Use the terminal block in any case, even if the wiring of the apartment is completely made of copper cable. If there is no DIN rail in the old junction box in the room, purchase and connect electrical cables through it.
So, all the work on laying the electrical wiring to the loggia is completed - we turn on the power supply of the apartment and make sure that there is power in all electrical installation products. Next, we close up the grooved channel in the living room and again take up the insulation of the loggia.
Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - continue
We return to the insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia. The beam is already fixed, the turn for laying mineral wool and vapor barrier, you will need a knitting wire. We cut the mineral wool into blocks in width equal to the sections between the beam on the walls and the ceiling, we start laying it from the ceiling - you will need an assistant.
From the tools you need a construction stapler with 12 mm staples - we fasten the end of the knitting wire to the edge of the beam with them, lay the insulation and hold it with wire, leading it between two adjacent wooden blocks in a zigzag manner, securing each sharp corner with a staple from the stapler.
Having finished laying the insulation on the ceiling, we move on to the outer walls - the wall between the loggia and the living room can not be insulated, because it is already “warm”, but the beam is attached to it in the same way as on the outer walls. Therefore, try to place the wiring accessories on this wall - it will not need to be insulated and covered with a vapor barrier film, which means that there will be no difficulty in placing the insulation under the mortgage plate for the electrical outlet or switch.
A vapor barrier film must be placed on top of the insulation, slightly stretched and fixed - it must be applied to the surface, fixed on the upper beam and further along the perimeter of the walls (ceiling). The installation of the film should start from the plane of the ceiling. In the areas where the walls and ceiling meet, it is necessary to overlap the film fixed on the walls by about 50 mm. In those places where the electrical installation products are located, the film is slightly cut and tightened around the cable going to the product, i.e. the electrical cable is pushed through it.
Important: the installation of a vapor barrier film is mandatory, otherwise the wooden beam will rot, and the mineral wool will sag under the influence of moisture penetrating in the form of steam from the room. Water vapor will form due to the high pressure inside the room and will be attracted to the outer walls, the partial pressure outside of which is lower due to the lower temperature of the cold season.
Finishing of walls, ceiling and floor
Walls and ceilings can be finished with various coatings - plastic or MDF panels, drywall or clapboard. As a floor covering, you can use laminate, linoleum, or save money and simply cover the base of the floor with two layers of varnish or paint.
The finishing sheathing should start from the ceiling, then the floor is covered, and only after that - the wall sheathing. After installation of the floor covering, its entire surface should be covered again with PVC film to protect it from damage during wall cladding. A hole is cut in the wall covering in the installation area of the junction box, in the places where electrical installation products are installed, only holes for the electrical cable are cut out - I remind you that all sockets and switches must be outdoor installation, i.e. protruding completely above the plane of the wall covering.
At the end of the sheathing of the external walls of the loggia, sockets and switches are connected to the cable that supplies power to them and mounted in their places.
Work on the insulation of the loggia ends with the installation of a plinth and, in the case of sheathing with plastic or MDF panels, butt rails on all edges and corners formed by wall and ceiling coverings.
If you intend to replace the existing loggia door with a new one, then its installation must be carried out before laying the lags or the base of the floor and before installing the timber on the walls.published
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The better to insulate the loggia from the inside: step by step instructions and tips = professionals. From a constructive point of view, the loggia is ideal for becoming a continuation of the apartment or even a full-fledged room. To accomplish this, a series of construction and installation works on glazing should be carried out, and.
As a result, you can get a spacious living room, a cozy room for relaxation, or even additional space for a work area.
If you do not take into account important factors when choosing materials, the result of the insulation may not turn out as you would like, so let's look at which materials are best for insulating the loggia, and what technology should be used for insulation.
Factor number 1 - the purpose of the premises
Factor number 2 - the dimensions of the loggia
Since if you have a small size, then you will need to give preference to a heater, which, with a small thickness, has a high rate of thermal protection. In this case, you will lose the usable area to a minimum.
Factor # 3 - throughput of the material
keep in mind that each material from which the walls inside the room are made has the ability to pass accumulated moisture. This is water vapor that collides with cold air from the street and settles outside on the wall. If you have insulated the wall, it means that the main insulation will be covered, and this will lead to further decay and decrease in properties. It is important to make sure that the steam simply does not reach the heater.
Insulation materials
On the construction market, you can find a lot of materials to insulate the loggia, the characteristics of which are important to familiarize yourself with before starting construction and installation work. What needs to be done?
Mineral wool, as well as materials based on cotton wool or basalt fiber, are quite popular materials with excellent thermal insulation, fire resistance and. When used, these materials perfectly retain their structure, appearance and shape, and also do not succumb to the negative effects of the environment and microorganisms, but the downside is that they are highly hygroscopic. Because of this water permeability, thorough waterproofing is necessary. The disadvantages include the need to create and the thickness of the material, which adversely affects the usable area.
What is the best way to insulate the loggia from the inside? Styrofoam, which is obtained from polystyrene. It is not chosen in vain, as it is durable, has a low level of thermal conductivity, has a low level of hydrophobicity and is resistant to microorganisms. For insulation from the inside, it is advised to use self-extinguishing foam, since the usual view is highly combustible.
In the role of a heater in the loggia, materials that are made of extruded polyethylene and covered with foil on one or both sides are also suitable: Isocom, Isolon, Penofol, Tepofol. Among the listed heat insulators, this type of thermal conductivity is the highest, therefore it is used as an independent material for insulation only with “cold” insulation or as a reflective material on internal walls.
But the small thickness and high level of vapor permeability makes it possible to use it as a second layer of insulation.
I would like to separately talk about the material that is produced in the form of plates or rolls. This is polyurethane foam - it is sprayed like foam and creates a heat-insulating surface. It surpasses all the above materials in terms of technical indicators. But he also has a drawback - a high level of flammability with the release of toxic agents. Do-it-yourself installation is not possible, as a special installation for spraying is needed.
Stages of warming the loggia
When you have finally decided how best to insulate the loggia, you need to carry out a series of preparatory work:
- Sealing of all cracks between the walls and the frame / parapet, glazing.
- Preparation of the necessary surfaces.
For glazing, you can safely choose double-glazed windows with a frame of any material. They must be functional, be sure to be ventilated and relatively light so that you do not create an additional load on the floor slab. The ceiling, walls and floor must be cleaned in advance of debris and other contaminants, and the integrity of the surface must be checked. If you find tile gaps or, they must be filled with sealant and, if necessary, leveled.
In addition to these procedures, it is also necessary to carry out waterproofing. For this, several materials are used, but sometimes one, since waterproofing is carried out for parapets and external walls, frames, ceilings and floors.
Such materials include:
- Penofol.
- Folgoizolone.
- Paints and coatings.
- Penetrating waterproofing.
Roll-type waterproofing should be glued overlapping to the base, and the resulting seams should be sealed with sealant, soldered or sealed with special adhesive tape. If you use foil isolon for coating, you get an additional layer of thermal insulation. When using paint, coating and penetrating types of insulation, it will be justified if you are engaged in insulation in hard-to-reach places and where the size of the room is very small.
After you have decided on the material for waterproofing and are ready to insulate the loggia, you can proceed to the insulation itself. There are two ways:
- You can make a continuous layer of material for thermal insulation and in this way you minimize any chances of steam entering the insulation.
- Insulation and coating.
Loggia insulation methods
Method number 1
In this option, we will use materials with a low level of vapor permeability - styrofoam and polystyrene. The thickness of such materials should be such that, when created, the necessary resistance to the passage of steam is obtained, and thermal insulation is observed.
When using conventional tile insulation, the installation steps are as follows:
Reinforcement can be carried out in 4 stages:
- Tiles are treated with coarse-grained sandpaper.
- The plates are covered with glue, its thickness for a long time to be no more than 0.3 cm.
- A grid with 5 * 5 cells is pressed into the glue.
- On top of the mesh you need to apply another layer of glue.
You can still use rolled thermal insulation materials, and at the same time the laying technology will be the same. In this case, you should cut off pieces of insulation of the size you need. After that, we get a surface that is completely ready for painting or plastering, as well as for pasting with liquid wallpaper and other decorative materials.
Method number 2
In this method, there are no restrictions on choice, since thanks to the technology, the creation of a vapor barrier between the finish and the insulation is provided. This type of insulation is carried out by arranging a wooden crate (but it is possible without it), but in this case, to fasten the lining and the crate, they are made on top of the vapor barrier.
A crate is made of wooden beams, but metal fasteners or a profile can also be used for this. If you use metal parts, you should definitely lay insulation under them.
The width and height of the crate depend on what material was chosen for the insulation of the loggia:
- If you will be using mineral wool, choose boards that are narrower than the mats so that the laying is spaced apart.
- Ideally, you need to lay several layers of wool so that the bars are covered, and then they will not act as conductors of cold.
- When using foam, all sizes of sheets and beams must be the same.
After the laying is done, we overlap to fasten the vapor barrier material. It can also be a simple polyethylene, a membrane. All joints should be sealed with adhesive tape. If you did the insulation without a crate, then profiles should be attached from above to install the finish.
Avoid These 5 Loggia Planning Mistakes
And as a reminder, we want to point out a list of common mistakes many people have made. We will help you find out exactly what mistakes and how to avoid them.
Mistake No. 1: redevelopment without permission
Often people think about the best way to insulate a loggia, but few people think that your decision to make one large room out of a loggia and a room should be registered by representatives of the BTI. This measure is necessary so that you do not have problems with the sale of the apartment in the future, when you find discrepancies with the real apartment and the technical passport.
Advice: it is possible to glaze the balcony using sliding double-glazed windows on an aluminum profile and thus equip an unheated summer loggia. This measure will add extra space to you, there will be less drafts, and you will not need to take permission to redevelop.
Mistake number 2: removal of the radiator to the loggia
If you have a permit for conversion, then you are unlikely to decide on such a step, but just in case, you should warn that the withdrawal of radiator pipes and heating equipment is unacceptable. There are too many heat losses on the loggia, and sometimes, even with insulation, the pipes freeze, which causes accidents. In addition, because of this, you will have to pay extra for heat supply.
Advice: for heating, use a floor heating system or oil as an alternative - it can be hung on the wall or used as a conventional battery.
Mistake number 3: dimensionless glass
This design solution looks great - when closed, it is a smooth surface, and sometimes it is not disturbed even by edges. In addition, it is convenient to assemble such sashes into an accordion, and this will not occupy the space of the loggia. But for insulated rooms this is not an option - single glazing and cracks will not protect from the cold. In addition, dirt and dust quickly accumulate on them, as well as fingerprints, and there is no way to attach a mosquito net.
Advice: don't just stop at this option - we advise you to take a closer look at the latest developments such as thermally insulated lift-and-slide windows. But the ideal choice would be a PVC double-glazed window with hinged doors. They do not take up as much space as it seems, it is possible to open them for ventilation, as well as open them to clean the glass surface from the outside.
Mistake No. 4: glazing on brackets
To increase the area, or rather, the volume of the loggia, apartment owners often want to build a frame for glazing (remote by a couple of tens of cm). So, a visor is made along the upper perimeter, on which snow will accumulate, and in bad weather, the sound of rain will be heard. The main thing is that a glass build-up will form on the facade, which will spoil the appearance of the structure.
Advice: an alternative option is available only with facade uniformity. If all the balconies in your house are open, you should discard such an idea, or even simple glazing. You can ennoble the loggia with the help of greenery.
Mistake #5: Sealant Abuse
The real nightmare of a perfectionist is the seams with bubbling polyurethane foam. They are ugly, and they can also spoil the microclimate of your apartment - the fact is that with polyurethane sealants, the foam cannot tolerate exposure to sunlight and moisture, and without protection it will quickly collapse, thereby opening all the sealed cracks and gaps for street noise and drafts.
Advice: the “foamed” seams should be well processed and the excess cut off, and then sanded with a thin sandpaper and covered with a layer of putty or acrylate paint (ideally, both options should be used). If there is no paint or putty at hand, use mounting tape, but then in the future paint will not adhere well to such seams.
Results
As you can see, the process of warming the loggia itself is simple. It is very important to follow the instructions and recommendations that will help create a warm loggia.
Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.
The choice of heat insulator
Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.
The most common options for heat insulators:
- Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
- Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
- Polyurethane foam (PPU);
- Styrofoam;
- Mineral wool.
Mineral wool
The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:
An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.
Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.
The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.
Polymer-based insulation
Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.
Advantages:
- The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a small weight of the plates;
- High degree of moisture resistance;
- The materials are durable;
- Antifungal resistance;
- Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
- An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.
Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances in the combustion process.
When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density
1. Styrofoam sheets
Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.
Styrofoam refers to budgetary methods of warming a loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.
2. Penoplex
Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").
3. Penofol
The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.
In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).
4. Polyurethane foam
PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, due to the finely porous structure.
The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space
In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round, you must:
1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.
After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.
2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.
3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.
5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.
Balcony decoration
Purposes of creating interior decoration:
- External masking of the heat insulator;
- Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.
To create an interior balcony, you can choose from various finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.
The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.
The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.
Facing the balcony with a block house.
The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.
Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.
Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.
Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.
Video
1. The result of warming the loggia.
Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation boards.
2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.
Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB cladding, installation of laminate lamellas.
What and how best to insulate the balcony from the inside with your own hands
The loggia is a part of the apartment that requires high-quality insulation. If you leave it in its original state, then in winter the cold will penetrate into the rest of the premises, and this is an extra cash cost for heating. Owners who do not know how and with what to insulate the balcony on their own invite workers whose services cost a lot of money. And it’s good if hired craftsmen turn out to be professionals, because contractors with a lack of qualification often come to the call.
If we take professionals as an example, they first visually assess the condition of the balcony and take into account the year in which the apartment building was built. Then they pay attention to the frame (metal or wooden) and evaluate the dilapidation of the skin. Last but not least, experienced workers compare neighboring loggias and can offer the owner to make a design in the same style as them.
Because of the old-style balconies, all the work becomes more complicated, especially if this building is not closed, but open. In this case, the craftsmen are engaged in additional strengthening of the structure and replacing rotten parts: they cut off the rusted metal elements of the frame and reconstruct the concrete site. The upper and lower parts of the balcony are reinforced without fail.
It is after the measures to restore the structure that the specialists are engaged in facing and internal thermal insulation of the room. Often, owners prefer to equip their balconies with foam blocks and double-glazed windows. The stones are laid out at half the total height of the loggia, and the open space is closed with windows. As a result, not only an attractive appearance of the building is created, but also its strength is significantly increased. By the way, a double-glazed window will significantly warm the room.
If the owner of the apartment changes the windows to plastic ones, then it is advisable for him to purchase products with double glass, since single ones retain heat by only 30% in the cold season.
Without preparing the balcony, one cannot approach subsequent cardinal actions. Before purchasing materials for warming the loggia, inside the premises, specialists carry out the following work:
The interior arrangement of the loggia concerns not only the ceiling and walls. It is equally important to insulate the floor, for example, with penofol.
For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.
The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.
Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam plastic, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.
The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.
Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.
Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.
The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.
Another option for insulation - penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties. Penofol is flexible and easy to cut, and environmentally friendly substances do not harm human health. They produce insulation in the form of rolls, therefore, it is convenient to work with it. The installation process takes no more than 1 hour.
As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:
The thickness of the wall from the edge of the interior to the exterior, taking into account the foam block, should be 30 cm. This is enough to retain heat and prevent the penetration of cold into the room.
Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:
Specialists always start finishing from the walls and ceiling, and at the end they deal with the floor. If everything is done the other way around, then the base will be damaged, and the front surface will be scratched.
How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: from a refrigerator to a warm island
To begin with, it is worth saying that there are two ways to insulate a balcony - from the inside and outside. External insulation, of course, is more convenient - precious centimeters of area are not “eaten up”, and the cladding of the balcony facade becomes more pleasant. But this is a laborious process that requires the involvement of a construction team and industrial climbers. Therefore, in the article we will focus on how to properly insulate a balcony in an apartment from the inside - this can be done independently.
For insulation inside the balcony, first of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. They include several important steps:
- How to start warming a loggia or balcony? Free up space from all unnecessary. It is best if the balcony is completely empty: it is much easier to work this way. Also, get rid of the old finish in advance.
- Seal all the cracks - a lot of heat escapes through them. For small gaps, a weather-resistant sealant is suitable; fill larger gaps with mounting foam - it will not only fill the voids, but also serve as an additional heat insulator.
- To make it easier for you to carry out work on insulation, it is important to even out cracks and irregularities on the walls and ceiling with cement mortar.
- If you plan to place light bulbs or lighting fixtures on the balcony, you should take care of the wiring in advance. To hide unpresentable cables, place them in plastic boxes.
- Before starting work, cover the opening between the balcony and the adjacent room with a film so that building dust and other pollutants do not get into the apartment.
Is it possible to insulate a balcony in winter? Yes, you can. Only when working in winter, it is necessary to choose frost-resistant materials, in particular mounting foam.
How to insulate a balcony: what materials are better to choose
To understand how to insulate a loggia or balcony, let's first figure out what properties the materials should have:
- high strength;
- fire safety;
- water resistance;
- environmental friendliness;
- relatively low cost;
- ease of installation (if we want to do all the work with our own hands).
Most often, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene, etc. are used for insulation. Sometimes several of these materials are combined. We have reflected the pros and cons of each heat insulator in the table:
Durability;
fire safety;
Not afraid of mold and mildew;
Light weight;
Easily takes any shape
Suitable only for floor insulation;
May be difficult to install
Environmental friendliness;
fire safety;
Easily takes any shape
The thickness of the insulation "steals" the usable area
Ease of installation;
Light weight;
Not afraid of mold and mildew
combustibility
Ease of installation;
moisture resistance;
Durability
moisture resistance;
Durability;
Fills cavities of any shape
Mandatory availability of special equipment
Durability;
Small thickness;
Good thermal and waterproofing
What is the best insulation for a balcony? The answer to this question depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. You can read more about the characteristics of heaters, as well as about the insulation of an apartment as a whole, in our blog.
How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and instructions
A balcony is a place in an apartment that can be used for various purposes. Someone stores various things there, someone uses it to dry clothes, and someone makes a favorite resting place or even a small room out of the balcony. In any case, the insulation of the balcony is a very important point that should be given close attention. If you want to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step photos and detailed instructions can be easily found on the Internet. The main thing is to avoid common mistakes and strictly adhere to the correct sequence of actions.
There are several points in which very many people make mistakes when insulating a balcony on their own:
- Rush. Often the insulation of the balcony occurs in haste. Usually, this involves filling the cracks with putty, installing warm windows and plugging in a radiator. At the same time, the heat from the apartment continues to leave through the balcony, which is very surprising to its owner.
- Use of poor quality materials. Therefore, how to insulate the balcony inside is an important question that must be asked before starting work. A balcony is a fairly large space, so bad windows or improperly installed flooring can create a serious leak of warm air.
In order for the balcony and the entire apartment to be as protected from the cold as possible, a certain procedure should be followed. So you save time, effort and get high quality insulation. If you want to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, step-by-step photos will help you with this.
Installation of double-glazed windows
The first stage, from which the insulation of any room begins, is the installation of modern double-glazed windows. If you have old wooden frames, then a very large amount of heat escapes through them, no matter how you insulate. But when installing double-glazed windows on a balcony, there is one nuance that distinguishes it from other rooms - the parapet. On many old balconies, it is not strong enough to support the weight of heavy metal-plastic windows. In this case, it will have to be further strengthened.
Useful advice! It is best to strengthen the parapet with reinforcement. The thick iron bars and cement will hold up well to any extra weight. The brick version is also good, but it is thicker and heavier.
Before you insulate the balcony with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of the window structures - these can be frames made of PVC, aluminum or wood.
Stages of work on the insulation of the balcony
Properties of different types of windows
Wooden frames are the cheapest, but not the best option in terms of window properties. Wooden windows do not retain heat well, they are not airtight. It is worth using them only if there are no severe colds in your latitudes.
Aluminum windows are more expensive, but retain heat better. In addition, they are the most reliable and durable, excellently resist corrosion and other negative influences.
PVC frames - the best option in terms of price and quality. Polyvinyl chloride is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes. It is not as resistant to stress as aluminum, but it provides the highest level of thermal conductivity.
How to insulate a balcony so that it is warm in winter? The following types of windows are well suited for this purpose:
With hinged doors;
With double glazing;
with extended profiles.
How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos
When insulating a balcony, one of the most important points is the thickness of the insulation layer. Often it turns out that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. The main criterion for a material for insulation is its thermal conductivity. This figure is inversely proportional to the amount of heat that the material can hold. One of the most frequently asked questions when insulating is what is the best way to insulate a balcony: foam or mineral wool? It all depends on your financial capabilities.
The most common material for insulating balconies is extruded polystyrene foam. It is thin, light, easy to cut and install, durable and resists moisture and corrosion well. Its only drawback is the rather high cost. In this case, the budget option for insulation for the balcony is foam. It is also lightweight and easy to install, however, less durable.
Crack sealing
There are gaps in any old balcony - this is an axiom. Heat will escape through numerous cracks even if you have installed the warmest and most modern double-glazed windows. It is best to seal them with polyurethane sealants and mastics, which are quite plastic, hold for a long time and are resistant to various kinds of natural influences, such as frost or wind.
The cracks are sealed with a special gun or a plastic nozzle that comes with the balloon. After the mastic or sealant has completely dried, you can proceed to the installation of the insulation. If you do not know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, a step-by-step photo will help you in this moment.
How to insulate the floor and walls on the balcony with your own hands
After choosing and buying a heater, it must be fixed. Usually, this is done with dowels or construction adhesive. When mounting with glue, you need to choose a composition without toluene - it can corrode the material. If you decide to attach the insulation with dowels, then they must be placed around the perimeter with a calculation of approximately 10 dowels per square meter.
When insulating a balcony with your own hands, use step-by-step instructions, photos and videos that can be found on specialized resources.
Stages of insulation of the walls of the balcony:
Installation of a vapor barrier film with gluing joints with construction tape;
Installation of a crate made of wooden bars or a metal profile;
Installation of insulation - foam, mineral wool, etc.;
Sheathing of the crate with moisture-resistant plasterboard, plywood or other sheet materials;
Wall finishing.
Useful advice! The seams between the layers of insulation or foam plates must be sealed with mounting foam. This will prevent heat loss through them.
Each type of surface has its own nuances of insulation. So, before warming the floor, it is worth leveling and laying waterproofing on it. And the use of vapor barrier tape will insure you against such troubles as fungus and mold. The walls and ceiling can be sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall. Photos of the design of the insulated balcony show that drywall, with proper finishing, looks great here.
Stages of insulation of the balcony floor:
Installation of a waterproofing film with the processing of joints with moisture-resistant mastic or sealant;
Laying a heat insulator - for example, foam;
Pouring a concrete screed with a thickness of 4-5 cm (an electric underfloor heating can be additionally installed in the screed);
It is possible to equip and insulate the floor on the balcony without using a concrete screed. To do this, after arranging the waterproofing, wooden logs are laid in the longitudinal direction of the balcony, which are attached to the concrete base. A heat-insulating material is laid between the lags - foam plastic, basalt wool, expanded clay, etc. Boards or sheet material (plywood, chipboard, etc.) are attached to the logs and the floor finish is equipped.
Balcony roof insulation
If the roof of your balcony is not the floor of the neighbor's, then a separate approach is needed to warm it. The video "How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands" clearly demonstrates the whole process. It is necessary to choose a reliable roofing material, it is desirable to apply sound insulation in the form of spraying or film on its inside. The following layers are also used:
Waterproofing - PVC or polyester films are perfect here;
Windproof membrane - allows steam from the insulation to pass through, but does not allow drops that can penetrate with the wind;
Anti-condensation layer - does not allow water vapor to drain onto the insulation;
Wooden frame - holds the roof;
Insulation itself - serves for thermal insulation of the roof;
Insulation vapor barrier - retains the insulating properties of the insulation, does not let water vapor inside it.
Additional insulation
In order to keep your balcony warm even in the most severe frosts, you can install a radiator, air conditioning or even a warm floor on it. The answer to the question "What is the best way to insulate balconies from the inside?" depends on your imagination, needs and financial possibilities.
If the balcony is combined with the room, then additional insulation can not be installed, the air conditioner will do a good job with this task. But there is a nuance - the air will warm up, but the floor will still remain cold, even if it is carpeted. Therefore, underfloor heating is a very appropriate option for complete insulation of the balcony. Installation of a warm floor is another difficult moment that is best left to experienced professionals. A step-by-step video instruction for warming a balcony with your own hands also helps here.
The better to insulate the balcony inside, the nuances of insulation in different seasons
Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to warm the balcony in winter. Many are interested in whether it is worth doing it and what it threatens. It all depends on the materials used for insulation. Some of them change their properties at sub-zero temperatures, and it becomes more difficult to process and mount them.
It is rather problematic to insulate a balcony with penoplex with your own hands in winter, and cement in the cold freezes very quickly and does not have time to really grasp. This leads to weakening of the masonry and the rapid destruction of the parapet. But there are a number of special winter adhesives and mixtures that are focused on use at low temperatures. A video of do-it-yourself balcony insulation in winter can also be found on the Internet.
Mounting foam also depends on temperature. If you choose the “summer” option for winter insulation, then this will not lead to anything good - the foam will quickly collapse and become unusable.
Another important point to consider when warming is dampness. You can often encounter it if you warm the balcony in autumn or spring. Most types of glue or mastic do not stick to a damp surface, and humidity also has a very bad effect on the performance properties of insulation, if it is not foam. That is why it is necessary to start the insulation and waterproofing of the balcony from the ceiling. In this case, sudden rain will not prevent you from continuing to insulate the walls and floor.
Useful advice! Insulation of the balcony with penoplex and penofol can be done even in conditions of high humidity.
From the foregoing, it can be seen that it is possible to insulate a balcony not only in summer. The only exception is if the temperature drops below 20 degrees. Then even the most frost-resistant materials begin to behave very badly, and normal insulation will not work, even if you know for sure how to properly insulate the balcony from the inside.
Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the balcony: step-by-step instructions and recommendations
If the answer to the question "How to insulate a balcony with your own hands?" and step-by-step photos can be easily found on the Internet, then the interior decoration is completely up to you. The best option here is drywall, which is moisture resistant and easy to further finish: painting, tiling, wallpapering.
Wiring can be hidden in hollow plastic casings so that it is not conspicuous, and carpeting can be laid on the floor. The step-by-step video "How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands" will help you decide on the type of insulation and interior design.
By the way, one of the most frequently asked questions is “How much does it cost to insulate a balcony and finish it?”. There is no exact answer to it, it all depends on the selected materials and the complexity of the work.
Warming the balcony from the inside with your own hands: step by step instructions
Insulation of a balcony (loggia) is a significant part of the measures for thermal insulation of housing in general. At the same time, the external version of the work is not applicable for all cases. The ban on external insulation applies to buildings located on the "red line", that is, facades facing avenues and central squares of cities. External insulation is considered unacceptable for buildings of historical significance, with some architectural styles of buildings. In such situations, the only available solution is to insulate the balcony with your own hands from the inside.
Internal thermal insulation
Depending on how exactly the balcony is made and how the insulation is organized at the neighbors from above and below, the option for arranging thermal insulation is selected:
- only the outer fencing plate in combination with high-quality double-glazed frames. Such a measure is sufficient for loggias, which are almost completely hidden in the building and go out only on one side;
- outer and side walls. The option is acceptable for balconies, similar rooms are thermally insulated from below and above (at the neighbors);
- full insulation - walls, floor and ceiling. The most rational option, provided that there is no insulation from the neighbors above and below, as well as a large area of contact with the external environment.
Balcony insulation from the inside can be done with one or more materials. At the same time, in addition to heat-insulating properties, such qualities of materials as the ability to resist moisture, ultraviolet radiation, dampen noise and create a sufficiently strong support for finishing materials (the latter especially applies to the floor) are considered.
Comparison of thermal insulation materials
The table below gives a comparative description of popular heat-insulating materials. A meter-thick brick wall was taken as a standard for comparison: in the climatic conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation, it is this thickness that is considered sufficient for high-quality thermal insulation at average (not record!) Winter and summer temperatures.
| Material name | Layer thickness providing thermal insulation equivalent to 1 m brickwork, mm | Advantages | disadvantages |
| Wood (beam, board) | 380 | Environmental friendliness, aesthetic appearance, you can do without finishing, high-quality sound insulation | Flammable, requires for fastening the crate or leveling the walls (floor, ceiling), not resistant to moisture, large thickness and high price |
| Mineral wool | 140 | Inexpensive and proven material, dampens sound well, slightly combustible | Requires battens for fastening, has a large thickness, surface finishing is required |
| Penofol, foiled on one side | 107 | High-quality thermal and sound insulation, resistance to moisture, ease of installation (especially for self-adhesive varieties), environmental friendliness | The high price, due to foiling in contact with bare wiring, can provoke a short circuit. Requires a ventilation gap, cannot be finished with wallpaper or plaster due to the softness of the material |
| Penofol, foiled on both sides | |||
| Penofol self-adhesive | |||
| Basalt fiber | 87 | Does not burn, has high sound and heat insulating properties, the plate version is quite simple to install | High price, the need for crates for soft roll varieties |
| Fiberglass | 85 | Inexpensive, with good insulating characteristics | In case of fire, it melts with the release of toxic substances; it requires protection in living quarters and during installation |
| Styrofoam | 83 | Good thermal insulation, long service life, very low price, easy installation | Toxicity at high temperatures (depending on the manufacturer), low sound absorption coefficient |
| Expanded polystyrene extruded | 65 | Ease of installation, good thermal and sound insulation, moisture resistance | High price, toxicity during combustion and high heat, fire hazard |
| Penoplex | |||
| Penoizol | 55 | Inexpensive, high-quality insulator, non-flammable, saves space | Requires pouring into prepared cavities, therefore it is of little use without a major restoration of the balcony |
In the absence of severe financial restrictions and the desire to independently carry out all the work, mainly plate and roll materials are considered - mineral or basalt fiber, polystyrene, extruded, polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol. Further, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room and its permissible reduction are taken into account. For small sizes, it is desirable to insulate and sheathe a balcony with minimal space loss, without a crate or its small cross section. Thus, with relatively flat floors, ceilings and walls, we will consider in detail for walls and ceilings: extruded polystyrene and polystyrene for plastering, double-sided foil foam under the crate, followed by cladding. For the floor, we will take two options - mineral wool in a crate for an OSB subfloor, followed by laminate flooring, and self-adhesive mats for installing an electric (cable) underfloor heating, followed by laying tiles.
We believe that balcony frames have an acceptable coefficient of heat and sound insulation and do not need additional insulation along the contour.
Ceiling and wall decoration
Taking into account the use of the same material for walls and ceilings, we consider the procedure for their thermal insulation together, since the technology differs little. It is important to understand: despite the option considered in the table with a thickness of insulation similar to a meter brickwork, in practice a thinner layer is required. It also depends on the planned use of the premises. If it will be used as residential, we accept the maximum layer thickness (from the table). If the balcony should be “cold”, that is, its insulation is minimal and is performed only to reduce heat loss from housing, it is permissible to reduce the thickness by 2 ... 3 times.
Step-by-step insulation of the balcony with extruded polystyrene
The initial stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. It is necessary, if possible, to remove old finishing materials from them (wallpaper, tiles, paint, plaster) and clean weakly holding sections of the main wall. Existing protrusions must be cut down to a height of 1 ... 3 mm, cracks and potholes should be cleaned (embroidered) and filled with a repair mixture. The role of the repair composition can be specialized materials (for more details, see the article “Repairing Cracks in Concrete”) or a mixture of cement-sand mortar with tile adhesive. After the completion of the filling of defects, plastering or puttying is performed, the thickness of the layer depends on the existing irregularities.
After complete drying of the surface, marking is carried out taking into account the available dimensions of the plates and cutting of the plate material. Plates of extruded polystyrene are attached to the joint, so it is desirable to cut the cutting as accurately as possible. The procedure is performed using a construction knife. Mounting is carried out on glue, which (depending on the manufacturer's instructions) is applied to the wall with an indent of at least 5 mm from the edge or on boards with the same indent. The plate is pressed against the adhesive layer and held until it sets. Further work is carried out only after the adhesive has completely cured (according to the manufacturer's instructions). In order to increase the contact strength for each square meter of insulation, 4 ... 6 plate-type dowels are used. The seams are additionally sealed with mounting foam.
Additionally, thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene is supplied with a vapor-reflecting film or membrane, which is glued (or fixed in other ways, depending on the type) with the reflective side outward, towards the street. The joints of the film or membrane are glued with special adhesive tape.
After the installation of the insulating layer, a reinforcing mesh is glued or fastened with dowels, on top of which a layer of plaster is applied, ordinary (for further finishing) or decorative.
Penoplex is mounted in the same way.
Insulation of the balcony with foam plastic
The initial stage of work is carried out in the same way, but taking into account the greater softness and plasticity of the material, it is not necessary to plaster and putty the walls and ceiling, and you can be less careful about removing small protrusions. The sealing of cracks and cavities is mandatory - the constant supply of moisture or "cold bridges" from the outside greatly reduces the quality of thermal insulation.
Installation of polystyrene foam is carried out on glue or using dowels, it is permissible to combine both options. The procedure is the same as for extruded polystyrene. The number of dowels per square meter is 4 ... 6, the adhesive is applied to the wall. A reinforcing mesh is attached over the installed panels and plaster is performed.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside with penofol
For this material, preliminary preparation of the walls is important only when directly gluing to the base.
If, as experts recommend, to arrange a ventilation gap of 15 ... 20 mm between the supporting structures and the insulator layer using a rack frame, complete alignment of the surfaces is not necessary. It is enough to provide a flat surface formed by the outer side of the frame (this is done using linings, leveling is done according to the level. An example of such alignment is described in the article “How to install beacons for plaster”).
Penofol is attached to the rack (wooden) frame with self-tapping screws, directly to the wall (ceiling) - using an adhesive layer (type C) or dish-shaped dowels. The second layer of penofol, used if necessary to ensure the "living" temperature of the balcony, is also applied over the rack frame. In this case, the seams on the upper and lower layers should not match. For a material foiled on both sides, the outer and inner sides are equivalent; for one-sided foiling, the side with the foil should be facing the inside of the room.
All seams are sealed with a special heat-insulating tape. Facing of any type on top of thermal insulation with foam foam is arranged along the frame. In connection with the obligatory nature of the crate, the optimal type of cladding is lining, panels or slab materials.
How to insulate the floor on the balcony
Insulation of the walls of the balcony and its ceiling is not very effective without high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. At the same time, the creation of a strong and durable floor covering requires either a screed device - but it greatly burdens the structure - or systems on logs.
How to properly insulate a balcony with a floor device on the logs
Logs - beams of a relatively large section, the upper planes of which are at the same level - create the necessary support for the final flooring and serve as "cells" for placing insulation. At the same time, since the logs are made of wood, "cold bridges" do not occur.
To place the lag, it is not necessary to first level the floor slab, but it is advisable to remove old coatings and materials from it. This will reduce the level of finishing and provide the necessary strength of the support.
The device of the base, the calculation of the lag step are performed in accordance with generally accepted rules. Plates or fragments of insulation rolls are placed between the bars. It can be mineral or basalt wool, foam plastic, other types of heat and sound insulating materials. A draft floor is laid on top of OSB boards or plywood, a fine floor covering is arranged.
With a low load on the floors, it is permissible to insulate the balcony with high-strength foam panels, but preference should still be given to structures with lags.
Floor insulation on the balcony under cable heating mats
The question of how to insulate a balcony in a panel house is often combined with the need to arrange heating there. The removal of central heating batteries is often irrational, so the best option (without a significant rise in the level of the finished floor) is electric "warm floors".
The type of thermal insulation material for cable or infrared heating systems is selected in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. However, the basic requirements for an insulator are as follows:
- high resistance to mechanical, including static, loads;
- good thermal insulation properties;
- small thickness.
The best option is extruded polystyrene, for example, Styrodur self-adhesive panels.
The material is glued to the prepared concrete base with special glue. A reinforcing mesh and sections of the heating system are laid on top. The power of the heating sections is selected depending on the desired temperature and the estimated heat loss of the balcony. Usually it is 150 ... 180 watts per square meter. A smaller value corresponds to a “cold” one, a larger one to a “warm”, residential balcony.
A thin screed is arranged for the cable floor, infrared can be mounted directly under the laminate or tile.
Do-it-yourself loggia insulation - video
Conclusion
Whether to insulate the balcony, do it on your own or with the help of professionals, what time of the year to perform work and how seriously to take heat loss and temperature compliance - each apartment owner decides on his own. However, with any course of action, it is worth remembering: do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony will cost (even when choosing high-quality and effective materials) cheaper than professional finishing. It is advisable to carry out all the manipulations in the warm season, since, of course, it is possible to insulate the balcony in winter, but this will create additional difficulties in work and lead to the formation of condensate with a sharp change in heat loss resistance.
If the apartment or house has a balcony, then you should definitely use it, as this is an additional, and sometimes just a necessary area. If you approach the issue with imagination and think through all the nuances, you can get a small, but very cozy room. In order for the balcony to serve as a room, it must be insulated. How to insulate the balcony inside is decided by each owner independently, taking into account their financial capabilities and urgent needs. But a few words should be said about the nuances of the process and the materials used to insulate the balcony. It is necessary to choose these materials very carefully and pay attention to all the characteristics.
It is necessary to begin the development of any balcony with an objective assessment of its condition. If the apartment is located in a new house, recently handed over to residents, then you need to pay attention to the material from which the balcony structure is made. Also in new houses, it is necessary to pay attention to what the balcony of the neighbors is trimmed with. Often in such houses, neighbors try to adhere to a single style.
We make masonry from foam blocks
But if the balcony is located in a far from new apartment and has always been used as an open space, then work will have to start with balcony reinforcements. Strengthening is understood as the reconstruction of the concrete platform of the balcony, and the strengthening of the metal handrail. Also, such an event as strengthening the lower part of the upper balcony can be included in this process, this should also be taken into account. After resolving all these issues and choosing the material for the exterior cladding of the loggia (balcony), you can proceed to the interior decoration. To simplify this stage, you can lay out a wall of bricks or foam blocks up to half of the balcony, directly to the double-glazed windows. This will save on insulation.
Tip: If all stages of insulation are carried out at the same time, then it is better to immediately install double-glazed windows in the windows, since one glass gives heat loss in cold weather by 70% more.
Preparing for insulation
To start warming the balcony inside with any materials, you need to prepare. Having chosen the material for insulation, it is necessary to create a special wooden crate under it, on which it will then be attached. The exception is rolled materials that can be mounted under the crate. This frame is made of beams with a cross section of about 4-5 cm. The transverse and perpendicular beams must be fastened so that squares of 50 by 50 cm are obtained. Also, the crate can be made of a metal profile, but this material is somewhat more expensive than wooden bars. The main advantages of a metal frame are the ease of construction and ease of use.
Note: When calculating the necessary insulation for a balcony inside, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the walls, but the floor and ceiling, since these two positions also need to be insulated.
Material selection
A heater is laid in the crate on the inside of the balcony, which can be:
Styrofoam insulation is one of the most common ways of thermal insulation of balconies and loggias. Styrofoam. The cheapest of these materials is plain white foam, 5 cm thick. If the room is insulated in cold latitudes, then you can take a thicker foam, it can reach a thickness of up to 10 cm. It can be easily cut into the required number of parts, and you can not additionally strengthen anything, but immediately lay the crates in the cells for finishing materials. The material is absolutely safe both when working with it and during subsequent use. The insulation is completely odorless, does not emit toxic substances, and styrene fumes in small quantities do not affect people's health. The installation of the material occurs without the formation of dust.
Warming with mineral wool mineral wool. Mineral wool is a little more expensive, but its soundproofing performance is much higher, so if you need to get rid of extraneous sounds, it is better to use it. This material is completely natural and completely fireproof. The combustion temperature of mineral wool starts from a thousand degrees. The inconvenience of laying mineral wool briquettes lies in the obligatory observance of safety measures. The material in its composition contains small particles of glass, which cause itching of the skin. It is necessary to carry out installation in protected special clothing, goggles and a respirator.
Expanded clay. The material is an environmentally friendly insulation. The word "expanded clay" is translated from Greek as "burnt clay". The material is often used for floor and ceiling insulation. It is not entirely profitable for them to insulate the walls, since in addition they need to prepare a metal mesh as a support.
The installation of high-quality double-glazed windows plays a big role in the insulation of a balcony or loggia. - you will find the answer here.
Penofol. This material is one of the heat-insulating means that has a reflective effect. Represents a layer from the made foam self-extinguishing polyethylene with the closed air pores. Coated with high quality aluminum, 14 microns thick and 99.4% pure on one or both sides. Penofol is a universal material with steam, hydro, wind, and soundproof properties. The material has the appearance of a thin, flexible, light and environmentally friendly structure. It can be used as an additional vapor barrier, it is very convenient for them to work, as it is sold in rolls and can be easily cut even with ordinary scissors. This material protects the room from moisture from the outside and saves the room from condensation.
Penoplex. It is a new material specially developed for warming rooms. The material is very easy to install due to its low weight, so its use on the balcony is now relevant. It is produced in the form of rectangular plates of different thicknesses, which are easily cut with a clerical knife. It is also possible to produce "sandwich panels" by pouring. Insulation with a rough surface makes it easy to attach and glue them to other materials.
Izolon
Izolon. It is also a versatile material in terms of use. Confirmed safety in use as a heater and vapor barrier element. Excellent soundproofing characteristics.
The degree of thermal conductivity is compared:
- with 15 cm brickwork
- with 4.5 cm wood
- with 4.5 cm mineral wool
- with 1.2cm styrofoam
Reduces noise by at least 18 dB.
These are the basic materials for creating an insulating layer, which are now easy to find in any hardware store. We hope you now have more information about how to insulate a balcony from the inside and then we'll see how to do it.
How to insulate
One of the best methods for laying insulation is layered laying:
- Surface waterproofing first.
- The next layer is the selected insulating material, which is also fastened with appropriate fasteners. It can be nails, self-tapping screws, plastic fasteners with wide caps.
- Then a vapor barrier is laid, which is fastened with a construction stapler.
- At the final stage, a finishing material is attached to the crate using special fastening materials.
Styrofoam sheets are installed in the crate, and the joints are smeared with mounting foam
You should get a layer with a thickness of approximately 60 - 70 mm, this is the distance from the outer layer to the finishing one. Depending on climatic conditions, this size may vary. It must be understood that any layer of insulation requires financial costs and labor, so it is better to immediately make a balcony in good faith and not try to save on trifles.
In a situation with floor insulation on the balcony the sequence is also the same. If it is decided to fill the floor with concrete, then first expanded clay is laid and a solution is distributed on top of it. The concrete solution must be carefully distributed with a special rule and try to make the surface as even as possible. Then ceramic tiles or other finishing materials can be laid on such a surface. Under the final finish, you can lay rolled heated floors, and this will give additional warming to the room.
A video instruction for self-assembly of a plasterboard ceiling is available at this address
If the option of a wooden floor is chosen, then first the guide logs are laid, between which the insulation is laid. Then a finishing board or chipboard is laid on the logs. Laying chipboard is necessary if further installation of laminate or linoleum is carried out. It is also worth noting that under the laminate it is necessary to lay special substrate, which will provide additional thermal insulation. When the walls and floors are finished, skirting boards are installed that hide the joints of the finish.
In the complex of works on the insulation of the balcony, attention must be paid to the ceiling. The process of insulation is carried out in the same way as the walls and floor. The task will be complicated by the moment when the balcony or loggia is on the top floor and there is no ceiling. In this case, you need to take into account the additional costs for the installation of the ceiling and roof.
When working on the insulation of the balcony, one should not fuss and rush, this can lead to an unreasonably large consumption of material. If you approach the matter with attention and carry out constant calculations, then you can get a full-fledged additional room for little money.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside video
We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article “Insulation for a balcony inside - choose materials”, which shows in detail the entire process of insulating a balcony using penoplex and penofol.
You can choose a suitable insulation for a balcony from the following list:
- mineral wool;
- foam plastic with a density of 25-35 kg / m3;
- extruded polystyrene foam (aka foam polystyrene);
- thin foil insulation made of polyethylene foam (penofol).
It is impossible to say unequivocally which of the listed materials is the best, each of them has its pros and cons, as well as installation features. If you take mineral wool, then a vapor barrier device will be required to protect it, otherwise the open pores of the fibers will be saturated with moisture from the room, as a result of which the thermal insulation properties of the material will be lost. But basalt wool absolutely does not burn and does not even smolder when exposed to an open flame.
Styrofoam beats all competitors with a low price and good resistance to moisture, but it quickly ignites. If the cotton wool had to be protected from vapors, then the foam plastic would have to be isolated as much as possible from an accidental spark. In this regard, expanded polystyrene and foam plastic behave much better, which does not burn on its own, but simply melts from heating. At the same time, these polymers have the lowest thermal conductivity, and absolutely do not perceive moisture.
It is better to use materials like penofol together with more serious heaters, since their own resistance to heat transfer is small due to their small thickness. But as a vapor barrier and additional cladding when insulating the walls and ceiling of the balcony, penofol is just a godsend.
What is the best way to insulate a balcony? Each material that will be used as thermal insulation has advantages and disadvantages. In addition, when installing a heater, it is necessary to take into account the features of this process and the nuances of operation.
Materials for thermal insulation can be bought in specialized stores. When making a choice, consider the main purpose of the product.
Today, thermal insulation on a balcony can be done very quickly; penofol is widely used in work. It is only suitable for indoor renovations. Having a special protection on the one hand, the material is able to effectively reflect heat. The substrate, located on the other side, acts as a heater.
Polyfoam is suitable for both outdoor work and for thermal protection from the inside. A feature of the material is that the foam can be put under the plaster. It is also suitable for the installation of a wet facade. The plates must be closed with a reinforcing mesh, a special composition suitable for finishing is applied to it. After it dries, the surface is painted.
Reinforced and extruded foam.
Remember that when insulating outside, work cannot be stretched out for the winter season. But the insulation of the balcony with your own hands from the inside can be done in winter. Styrofoam has 1 disadvantage that must be considered: it deteriorates in direct sunlight.
Materials for warming the balcony from the inside can be different. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation performance. But it must be laid together with a layer of waterproofing, do not forget about the vapor barrier.
Formation of a vapor barrier.
Warming the balcony with mineral wool with your own hands can be done in a few days. Pay attention to the quality of installation work, there should be no cold bridges in the room. Mineral wool can be placed on the floor, walls and ceiling inside the balcony to keep it warm in winter.
Mineral wool.
Penoplex is a bright orange material that belongs to extruded polystyrene. It is not at all difficult to insulate with such material with your own hands. It is very dense, great for thermal insulation of floors and finishing work outside. On top of the foam, which was laid on the floor, a screed is made. This material is 1.5-2 times more expensive than polystyrene, which must be taken into account when planning estimates.
Penoplex.
When choosing a material, consider your experience in construction. If a number of heaters can be laid on their own, then others require professional installation.
It is problematic to make the insulation of the balcony outside on your own. The process is best entrusted to professional climbers. When choosing materials in the store, take into account performance characteristics. In addition, the complexity of the installation work must be taken into account.
Step by step instructions will help you do everything right. The process of warming the balcony from the outside consists of the following steps:
- Buy a primer and apply it to the surface.
- Glue foam or sheets of extruded polystyrene foam. Consider the wind load, fasten the sheets to the dowels-fungi.
- The thermal insulation of the balcony must be covered with a reinforcing mesh, it must be fixed with recessed dowels.
- Cover the reinforcing layer with glue, apply 2 layers. When it hardens, take a good spatula, remove streaks and bumps. After that, everything is ready for finishing work.
- Paint the balcony or apply facade plaster.
For high-quality insulation from the outside, you can buy mineral insulation for the balcony. Basalt wool has proven itself well, it is produced in slabs. For their installation, the arrangement of the crate and vapor barrier will be required. You can not do without a layer of waterproofing - it will protect the insulation layer from getting wet.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside? All work on the installation of insulation can be divided into the following stages:
- Remove old structural elements. Prepare the surface.
- It is necessary to carry out glazing, monitor the quality of the installation of frames. They can be made from wood, plastic or aluminium. Reinforce the parapet if necessary.
- Lay insulation on the floor and side partitions. Insulate the balcony from the inside, paying attention to the thermal insulation of the parapet and ceiling. Capital walls can not be covered with insulation.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside? Mineral wool, penoplex have proven themselves well. Plates of material are installed on the crate, all joints are blown with mounting foam. Sometimes apartment owners make crates from wooden beams, but material companies recommend metal profiles. The fact is that the humidity inside the balconies is high, the wood can deteriorate, and the thermal insulation must be made reliably.
No one imposes strict requirements on the crate, the choice of material remains with the person who will make the sheathing. If you are thinking about how to insulate a balcony from the inside, then you should choose the material, the purchase of which will not become a burden on the family budget.
Warming the balcony with your own hands does not require large financial costs.
Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.
The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.
Another option for insulation is penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties.
Insulation of balconies and loggias: eight mistakes of finishers
Earlier, we examined the insulation of the balcony in sufficient detail, now let's dwell on the insulation of the loggias in more detail. Many people call loggias balconies, not seeing the difference between them, although this is not true.
In general, initially a loggia is a recess in the wall, enclosed by a colonnade, but we are interested in a loggia in the sense that this word was given in Soviet, and later Russian, multi-storey construction.
So, a loggia is an open, non-insulated (this is important for us!) Premises that have at least two (most often three) walls. The last point is the main difference from the balcony, which has only one wall - the outer wall of the house, to which it is attached, blown by all the winds.
The loggia is recessed flush into the outer wall of the house, which gives us a number of advantages. In particular, one of the three walls (internal) can be removed altogether, thus expanding the area of the room.
When the glazing work is completed, it's time to deal directly with the insulation. You should start with the choice of insulation material.
Many use traditional foam and mineral wool out of habit, although modern industry is ready to provide much more advanced and effective materials for insulation.
For example, extruded polystyrene foam (extruded polystyrene foam, XPS). The basis for this material, as well as for many other plastics, is polystyrene - a crystalline colorless substance.
It is melted, foamed with a mixture of freons with carbon dioxide and extruded. This tricky word is called squeezing a semi-liquid uncured material through a hole.
The process is reminiscent of squeezing toothpaste out of a tube, with the only difference being that the holes in the “squeezer”-extruder are a slot a meter or more wide. The result is a wide and long tape, which is sold in rolls or in the form of panels. Extruded polystyrene foam is called penolplex (or penoplex) and is an excellent material for floor insulation.
Possible problems with the insulation of the balcony
Before insulating the balcony inside, I recommend thinking carefully about all the pros and cons of such a solution. Despite the fact that more and more people resort to installing heaters before decorating this room, this operation has several disadvantages.
Here are the ones that I consider the main ones:
- Reducing the usable floor space. If just finishing already reduces the size of a balcony or loggia, then an additional layer of heat-insulating material exacerbates the problem even more. Therefore, if you have a tiny architectural element, consider whether the resulting additional area is worth the money and effort spent.
- The appearance of condensed moisture inside structures. When using heaters, the dew point shifts inward, which leads to mold and damage to finishing materials.
This shortcoming, however, is easy to deal with. I will tell you how to insulate the balcony with your own hands from the inside so as to achieve the ideal microclimate inside.
Sequencing
The very technology of warming a loggia or balcony consists of several important steps:
- Sealing gaps and eliminating defects. Before laying the insulation for the balcony inside, you need to get rid of all cracks, bumps, potholes and bulges. I recommend blowing out small cracks with mounting foam (just choose a quality one), cement mortar will cope with more serious troubles.
- Installation of waterproofing. To do this, I always recommend my clients to use penetrating materials. For example, Avatron or Penetron. They are easy to apply with a sprayer, but you can also use a simple roller or brush.
The peculiarity here is that the liquid penetrates deep into the mineral surfaces, as a result of which they are not only protected from water, but also do not freeze during operation at low air temperatures.
- Heat insulator installation. It is easy to do it inside with your own hands. You do not need to install scaffolding or call aerial platforms. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology, which I will discuss below.
When choosing materials for work, immediately think about whether you will insulate the floor and ceiling. For these surfaces, more durable heat insulators are needed that do not change their properties from external mechanical stress.
- Arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. It is needed just in order to avoid the condensation of moisture that forms on the balcony inside the heat-insulating materials. For this, vapor-permeable polymer membranes are used, for example, Isospan or Rockwool.
By the way, you can avoid this stage by using heat insulators with a foil layer, placing it inside the balcony. But I, nevertheless, would recommend not to save. Moreover, the vapor barrier membrane will not increase the estimate much.
- Decorative decoration of the balcony. It all depends on your imagination, the amount of money and the purpose of the room. I cannot give specific advice.
The vapor barrier is glued joint-to-joint, after which these places are sealed with metal tape - all this creates the so-called. thermos effect.
Then follows the installation of the balcony flooring. As a base, it is recommended to create a 4-centimeter screed layer, with a mandatory gap between it and the walls of 1 cm. This margin is necessary in case of thermal expansion.
You can create such a gap by installing polyethylene foam around the perimeter, 1 cm thick, and then start pouring. When the screed hardens, ceramic tiles are laid and fixed with tile adhesive.
The crate in a panel house is best mounted from a wooden beam with a section of 40x20 mm, and it must be dry and treated with an antiseptic. Stuffing takes place both horizontally and vertically with the help of self-tapping screws and dowels, driven directly into the thickness of the concrete.
Further, insulation implies finishing, which can be carried out in 2 ways: installation of plastic panels - width 25 cm; installation of moisture-resistant drywall - with this approach, insulation involves additional finishing work: prime and putty the surface, remove the corners and align them.
After that, you can paint the walls or stick wallpaper. As for the installation of lighting fixtures (lamps, floor lamps, etc.), the electrical wiring to them must be laid even before the start of interior finishing work.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony in a panel house is often not without errors. Installing a vapor barrier on the cold side of a heat-insulating material - a film or membrane is placed between the wall and the insulation. For this reason, condensation forms on the surface.
With different types of mineral wool during operation, their correct operation is not ensured. The result is the wetting of the insulation and the gradual destruction of the entire interior finish, followed by dismantling and replacement.
The installation of wooden planks directly in the expanded polystyrene layer leads to a lack of solidity in the thickness of the insulation and the formation of the so-called. cold bridges. The same applies to cases of mounting a metal crate inside the insulation layer. In addition to "cold bridges", condensate appears on the metal, which destroys the heat-insulating material.
Restrictions on insulation of balconies
But I can tell you what is absolutely impossible to do when decorating a balcony or loggia. Moreover, violation of these rules may result in administrative or criminal liability.
So, it is forbidden:
- Demolish load-bearing partitions between two balconies (loggias) or this room and the residential part of the apartment.
- Install engineering communications on the balcony (in particular, heating, plumbing and sewerage) connected to the general system of the apartment.
- To equip a kitchen or a bathroom on the balcony (although, as you understand, no one forbids an office or a bedroom).
- Install glazing on balconies that are equipped with fire escapes to evacuate people during a fire.
- Mount hanging flower beds or devices for drying clothes outside the enclosing structures of the balcony.
- Reduce the height of the parapet of a balcony or loggia (by dismantling the upper part or raising the floor). The minimum height of the parapet should be 1.1 meters.
- Violate the appearance of the facade of the building (this is for information, so warming the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you are unlikely to cause damage to the exterior of the house).
- Independently glaze balconies located above the 9th floor, while violating the requirements of fire safety.
As you can see, not all of the listed requirements are observed by our compatriots, but my conscience would be restless if I did not tell you about them.
Now a little about the materials that can be used.
Ways of internal insulation of the balcony
Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:
How to insulate a balcony? Choice of heater.
For thermal insulation of such premises, a huge amount of materials is used. I have compiled a table that lists the most popular varieties with an indication of the features of each.
| Name | Description |
| Styrofoam | Dense material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, having a finely granulated porous structure. Do not confuse styrofoam for thermal insulation and packaging foam. The latter has large pores and breaks quickly. Not suitable for floor insulation, as it does not withstand the load. It can be used for installation on the enclosing plate, walls and ceiling. |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | A material that perfectly retains heat indoors and, thanks to a special production technology, has increased mechanical strength. Microorganisms do not multiply on the surface of expanded polystyrene, it is non-flammable and environmentally friendly. |
| Penofol | Another name for the material is polyethylene foam. For balconies, it is better to use insulation with a foil layer, which reflects thermal energy and prevents moisture from the insulation layer. The foil, among other things, plays the role of a vapor barrier membrane. |
| polyurethane foam | A special composition that is applied to surfaces using special equipment. After hardening, it forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer that prevents unproductive consumption of thermal energy and cooling of the balcony. The material is great for warming, but you can’t cope with its application with your own hands. |
| Mineral wool | A material based on basalt fiber, which is great for insulating walls and ceilings of a balcony. To increase efficiency, it must be protected from moisture. It is impossible to insulate the floor with mineral wool, as it does not withstand significant mechanical stress. |
| Multilayer panels | We are talking about sandwich panels, which are used for both insulation and decoration of the balcony. They have a beautiful top layer that does not require additional finishing. Thermal insulation is glued from below, which reduces the coefficient of thermal conductivity of enclosing structures. |
On this, I consider the theoretical part to be over and proceed to the presentation of specific schemes for the internal insulation of balconies and loggias with the help of several, in my opinion, the most effective materials.
The most common option is polystyrene foam. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and is easily mounted with your own hands inside the balcony.
I tell you how to insulate the balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:
- After carrying out preliminary operations (sealing gaps and waterproofing), I always treat the surface with a penetrating primer. It improves the adhesive properties of mineral surfaces, removes dust from concrete monoliths and reduces the consumption of the adhesive composition.
Processing can be done with a regular brush or spray. Very carefully process not only the walls, but also the ceiling with the floor. Otherwise, then there will be difficulties when gluing polystyrene foam.
- It is possible to continue work after priming only after the composition has completely dried, which takes about 6 hours. If the walls of the balcony where I work are made of porous materials (for example, foam concrete), I always prime everything twice.
- After priming, you can proceed with the installation of expanded polystyrene, which is supplied in slabs. Installation is carried out using glue and special fasteners with wide caps.
I prepare the adhesive composition from the purchased dry powder. It is necessary to mix it with water in the proportions indicated in the instruction manual, and then achieve uniformity using a mixer connected to a drill.
I apply the finished glue to the heat-insulating material, after which the expanded polystyrene sheet is glued to the wall. I do the same with other materials, placing them in a checkerboard pattern with overlapping joints.
- In order for the plates to fit firmly, you need to fix them with dowels with plastic caps. To do this, I use a drill to make a hole in the polystyrene foam and the wall, after which I install the appropriate bracket there.
- Considering that polystyrene foam does not absorb water, a vapor-permeable membrane can be omitted. Although I see no reason to buy and fix a special film on the surfaces.
- The last step is plastering. To avoid the destruction of the decorative coating, you must first fix the fiberglass reinforcing mesh on the foam polystyrene plates, and then plaster over it. That's exactly what I do.
- Before plastering, you can install perforated galvanized corners on the corners, which will facilitate the work and protect the corners from damage during operation.
This material is also widely used for internal insulation of balconies. You can mount it on the walls using special bituminous mastic, construction foam or plastic dowels with wide caps.
I'll tell you how I make foam insulation using polyurethane foam:
- To begin with, as in all other cases, defects are repaired and the surfaces of the balcony are waterproofed. By the way, the primer will not hurt either.
- After performing the preparatory operations, it is necessary to squeeze out the mounting foam from the perimeter along the perimeter of the pre-fitted foam slab. More foam is not needed, the insulation will already be securely fixed to the surface.
- After waiting a few seconds, you need to attach the material to the wall.
- Further work is carried out using a similar technology. Naturally, I recommend moving the seams in a checkerboard pattern to avoid the formation of cold bridges that reduce the effectiveness of ongoing insulation work.
- To keep the insulation stronger, it can be further strengthened with dowels with wide caps. Although it is not necessary to do so.
- The last stage is decorative finishing. Here I completely shift the responsibility for the choice of materials to you. Think for yourself, decide for yourself.
Well, I can not tell you about the use of mineral wool insulation. I can’t say that they are very effective, but they are very popular. I focus on them only because the laying technology itself is more complicated here.
The fact is that mineral wool is very soft and does not have rigid geometric dimensions as such. It is produced in the form of rolls into which material is rolled up with a thickness of 2 to 20 cm.
I recommend buying stone (basalt) wool with a heat-reflecting foil layer for arranging a balcony. The latter will effectively protect the insulator from moisture and play the role of a reflective screen that traps the thermal energy of heating devices inside the room.
Given the described technical characteristics, it is possible to mount the insulating material only under a pre-arranged crate made of wooden bars or galvanized profiles. But this is good, since you can then install a decorative cladding on the crate. For example, lining or plastic panels.
For example, I will tell you about insulation using wooden blocks. It is better to take not square, but rectangular lumber with a section of 3 by 5 or 3 by 7 cm. This will save the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony.
The crate can be installed in two ways:
- horizontally - if later you trim the balcony with plastic panels;
- vertically - if you have chosen lining as a material for decorative finishing.
Features of balconies in Khrushchev
There is nothing complicated in warming a typical Khrushchev house and in fact it is not much different from warming a loggia. There is no point in finishing the balcony without insulation, because. this is unlikely to bring the desired result.
Considering that the balcony is located outside the building, I immediately want to note that it will never be warm there in winter, only if you do not insulate 10-15 centimeters and install heating radiators. But on such a balcony there will be very little space!
Yes, and it makes no sense. on balconies, mainly sliding frames with one or two glasses are installed. Ready-made insulated loggia Why did I lead all this, oh yes! In addition to the fact that it makes no sense to buy expensive thermal insulation materials, we will insulate the balcony with foam plastic! Before carrying out all work, be sure to treat the concrete with an antiseptic solution for bricks and concrete, since the concrete has been exposed to aggressive environmental influences for a long time.
Let's make a list and try to include everything you need:
- Perforator;
- Screwdriver or screwdriver;
- Mounting foam;
- Styrofoam with a thickness of 5 centimeters;
- Construction stapler;
- Level, tape measure and pencil;
- Stationery knife;
- Wall panels or eurolining (depending on your preferences);
- Plinth and fittings; A piece of linoleum or laminate;
- Fasteners.
Styrofoam laying can be started both from the floor and from the walls. We make a typical crate with a step of 50 centimeters parallel to the floor (we will attach the cladding to it). We fill the space between the bars with foam and thoroughly foam everything.
The thickness of the walls is 5 centimeters, the thickness of the balcony floor insulation is 10 centimeters, otherwise our insulation will “eat” half of the balcony and it will become very narrow! The pictures attached to the article show what is being done and how.
Finishing
After we have foamed everything, we cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe insulated balcony with foam. It is advisable to do this when using plastic panels in the finish and be sure to use “wooden” wall panels or eurolining, since this will be additional protection against moisture.
The panels are attached to the crate using a construction stapler. The final step will be laying linoleum or laminate and installing a floor plinth. It is important to make a solid base under the floor covering.
10 mm plywood is best suited for this. If you have any questions, write! We will be happy to answer them! I also advise you to read my article on how to make a closet on the balcony.
Balcony insulation in an old house and in a new building has significant differences. This is due not only to the small area of the Khrushchev loggias, but also to their design features:
- The reinforced concrete slab at the base of the balcony has a slope to the outside. This was done so that rainwater would flow down. The same will happen with the ceiling formed by the loggia of the upper floor. On average, the height difference is about 150 mm. The walls are not even, this is the trouble of all old houses.
- Lattice fence. For insulation, you will have to build a parapet and install double-glazed windows. For a strong fence, foam blocks 10 cm thick will suffice.
- Bad condition of the board. In many homes, balconies are already starting to crumble and fall apart.
It is worth consulting with specialists and, if necessary, reconstructing the stove. All global alterations must be agreed with the supervisory authorities, otherwise problems will arise in the future.
Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.
A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.
Balcony insulation with mineral wool
What materials can be used to insulate a balcony and a loggia from the inside? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?
In modern technologies for insulating open suspended structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.
Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.
Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.
Floor and ceiling insulation
The first question is which insulation technology to choose, the answer depends on the configuration of your loggia. The best option is when a concrete parapet is available, and if there is a metal fence instead, then there are several scenarios for further actions. The first - the parapet can be laid out from foam blocks or aerated concrete, and the metal can be completely removed. This path is the most acceptable both in terms of excellent insulation and design of the loggia, and security.
The second scenario - the fence is sewn up with corrugated board, and then a wooden frame is made of beams for attaching the insulation. This path is somewhat shorter, but it cannot be said that it will cost you much less. There is a weak point here - wooden bars will serve as cold bridges and in order to get rid of them, you will have to put a heater in 2 layers with an offset. There is a third way - the device of a panoramic loggia without a parapet with full-height glazing.
The technology of finishing with foam plastic, which you have to follow when insulating a glazed loggia with a concrete parapet, is quite understandable. Mounting foam is first applied to the cleaned and slightly moistened surface of the walls for the primary fixation of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene boards. Pre-cooked and cut to size plates are pressed against the wall and glued on the foam to the surface.
At the same time, we insulate the walls of the loggia in the likeness of brickwork, placing foam sheets with bandaging of the seams. In simple words, the vertical seams of each subsequent row should be at least 150 mm apart from the seams of the previous one. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the vertical using the building level. After the foam has hardened, it is recommended to fix each expanded polystyrene plate to the wall with dowels - umbrellas.
The process of warming the ceiling of the loggia is a little more complicated, the help of an assistant will not hurt here, although with a certain skill you can manage it yourself. Insulation plates will have to be immediately fixed to the ceiling with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill holes quite accurately, and then hammer in the dowels while supporting the plate. Upon completion, all seams and cracks are carefully filled with the same polyurethane foam.
Now you need to create a frame for mounting the interior trim of drywall, plastic, lining or other facing materials. Wooden slats cannot be attached to the insulation, but you can drill a hole through it in concrete. Which is done using a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, and then the slats are screwed directly to the wall with special screws for concrete (called frame dowels).
Having dealt with the walls, you can go to the ceiling. To insulate it, I recommend using foam. Moreover, you need to buy the usual material for insulation and that variety of it, which is supplemented with a heat-reflecting foil layer, which increases the strength of the material and helps to keep the heat inside.
You need to insulate the ceiling in the same way as the walls, using polyurethane glue and dowels. Only first you need to stick the first layer, and on top - the second, with a heat-reflecting surface.
The seams between the parts must be sealed with mounting foam, and at the end - glued with a special metallized adhesive tape. In this case, even a strong cold will not prevent you from creating an immortal masterpiece in your office on the balcony.
If, of course, you take care of floor insulation, which, for example, I carry out as follows:
- I clean the floor surface from the remnants of building materials, cement influx, dirt, debris, glue, and so on;
- I cover the floor with penofol;
- on top I mount a crate from wooden bars pre-cut with an electric jigsaw;
- I install heat-insulating material inside the crate, sealing the cracks with building foam;
- I mount a draft floor from plywood or OSB boards;
- I lay a floor covering on top (usually linoleum or laminate).
However, my neighbor - a future professor - wanted to make a heated floor in his balcony office. So I had to tell him the order of work in this case:
- on the reinforced concrete floor of the balcony, you need to make a screed using a self-leveling mixture in order to level out all the protrusions and irregularities;
- on top of the frozen screed, you need to lay a layer of heat-reflecting material with a heat insulator;
- mount a heating electric cable from above, securing it with a special tape (you remember that you can’t do water heating on a balcony, which means a water-heated floor too);
- pour another layer of cement screed on top;
- install the selected decorative flooring.
There are two ways to insulate the walls of the balcony from the inside:
- direct fastening of the insulation to the surface with adhesive and dowels;
- installation of thermal insulation with a wooden crate.
The first method is more acceptable when it is required to insulate the loggia inside with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam (foam foam). Moreover, the latter is often attached to the walls "dry" with dowels, without the use of adhesive. There is nothing to worry about, the main thing is that the insulation plates are installed correctly, that is, without any gaps. The density and strength of foam allows it to hold well on dowels alone and at the same time bear the load of the inner lining.
Wall surfaces are first cleaned and leveled, after which they are covered with a layer of deeply penetrating primer using a roller. After it dries (the time is indicated on the package), a slab insulation is glued to the wall. For this, a ready-made building mixture is used, which is applied around the entire perimeter of each slab and at several points in the middle. After 2 days, the material is additionally attached with dowels.
By the way, the thickness of the foam insulation layer must be at least 100 mm for all walls and ceiling. If the balcony is insulated with polystyrene foam, then a thickness of 80 mm is sufficient. After the installation of thermal insulation is completed, its surface can be plastered using a reinforcing glass mesh or other types of finishes can be applied.
As for mineral wool, it can also be put on glue, but it's still easier to use battens. They are installed on the walls and ceiling with an interval less than 1-2 cm of the width of the insulation boards, so that the latter is inserted between the bars by surprise. According to reviews, when insulating with rolled wool, it is necessary to take into account its gradual sliding down and, in order to avoid this phenomenon, put additional horizontal lintels of the crate.
For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.
The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.
Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam plastic, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.
Insulation of the loggia Secrets of skill from Alexei Zemskov
The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.
Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.
Decorative decoration of the balcony
I will end my story with a short story about how to finish the balcony after it has been insulated. To do this, you can use many different materials:
- plastic panels;
- ordinary and decorative plaster;
- wallpaper;
- tiles;
- wooden lining.
Considering that I told you how to insulate a balcony with mineral wool, I will continue this topic. I will describe how you can install lining or plastic panels on the walls. The technology is very similar, since both of these materials are separate lamellas connected to each other using a special system of spikes and grooves.
And there is not much to do here:
- the first part is mounted on the installed crate, starting from the corner;
- after that, all subsequent parts are installed.
I tend to prefer wood as it's a natural material, but plastic is easier to work with, doesn't require finishing, and is cheap.
As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:
Insulation of the balcony with foam
Insulation of a balcony or loggia allows not only to get rid of drafts and dampness, but also to expand the useful area of the apartment. To insulate a loggia, it is necessary not only to use high-quality window blocks, but also to insulate the walls, floor, ceiling of a balcony or loggia.
Advantages of PENOPLEX COMFORT® boards for balcony insulation:
- High compressive strength;
- Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- Zero water absorption;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Ease and simplicity during installation;
- Low vapor permeability, which is very important for internal insulation.
Scheme 1 - do-it-yourself balcony insulation
- Loggia wall;
- Balcony insulation PENOPLEX COMFORT®;
- sheet material;
- crate;
- Fastener;
- Loggia floor.
Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, mounting foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.
Foam mounting
So. Waterproofing done. Mounting foam is applied to the insulation plate around the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing to your liking. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels, they look very original.
Additionally, we fix the plates with dowels
Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.
The process of warming the balcony is completed. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done the insulation of the loggia yourself, then share your methods with readers in the comments.