Insulation of the attic roof. Insulation of the attic from the inside: possible problems and ways to solve them How to nail the film and insulation mansard roofs

Such a desire is natural, this is a wonderful opportunity to increase the area and living space of your home. In addition, it gives the building a special charm, brings a certain amount of romanticism to its appearance.

The mansards are located almost under the roof itself. What are the typical requirements for them? It is important that it is cool enough there in summer and dry and warm in winter. In order for a room to meet the aforementioned requirements, it is important to know what processes are taking place in it, to understand the essence of competent insulation.

It is not difficult to do all the necessary work with your own hands, their technology is quite simple. The main thing for this is a conscientious partner and the availability of the necessary tools. If everything is done technologically correctly, it will not get wet or rot, but will serve for a long time and reliably.

Living under a roof is special. Its walls are close to the surface, while the gaps are only 10-15 cm in size. A characteristic feature of the room is connected with this - it instantly gets cold in winter, and literally gets hot in the summer before our eyes. In winter, such a valuable heat for housing evaporates through the roof, while in summer it, on the contrary, heats up a lot, noticeably increasing the temperature of the room.

The processes that take place depend on the quality, as well as the thermal conductivity of the materials used for manufacturing.

In winter, the heat rising from the radiators spreads under the roof arch, and then evaporates due to the heat transfer of the roofing materials. The snow lying on the roof begins to melt and, turning into ice, destroys its cover.

In the summer, it heats up, heating the entire structure, which is why the air in the room also heats up a lot. If a building has a familiar cold attic, then everything happens differently.

The function of a heat insulator in such housing is performed by the air in the attic room, and snow on its roof in winter.

The filling materials on, together with the air, trap the heat coming from the bottom, from the dwelling.

Thanks to this, even in very frosty winters, t in the attic is kept at about 0 degrees. Snow does not melt outside, being another additional insulator. In summer, t is regulated by vents on the pediments, which play the role of a kind of system. How to insulate an attic?

The room must be properly insulated: carefully selected material, the required parameters, and in full compliance with the technology.

Attic insulation: materials

The choice of the most suitable material is a very demanding task. After all, a lot depends on its type - the thickness of the insulation "cake" itself, the number of minimum layers in it.

Special requirements are imposed on it:

• Low thermal conductivity. A material with a coefficient not higher than 0.05 W / m * K is best suited.
• Ease. The weight of the material matters; it should not overload the roof.
• Low moisture permeability. If the roof suddenly leaks, it should not get wet and lose its qualities. Or it should be well insulated to avoid getting wet.
• . It is imperative that the material is non-flammable and does not sustain combustion.
• Elasticity, shape retention. Due to their location, lightweight mineral-based materials tend to creep away, leaving voids. Therefore, it is so important that he can keep his shape.
• Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
• Strength and durability.

Of course, all these points are ideal, but this does not happen often.

In each case, the required thickness is calculated strictly individually. If you select this indicator approximately, then most likely 25 cm will be enough.

Glass wool

This is perhaps the most successful solution for insulating a roof from the inside. This is a plastic material that fits compactly between the rafters, covering all the free space. does not support combustion and does not burn itself. It is extremely lightweight and has excellent insulating properties.

Basalt wool in slabs remarkably retains its shape. Its disadvantage is that it easily absorbs steam and water, and therefore needs additional. This is very important: if the mineral wool gets wet, then it will irrevocably lose more than half of its useful qualities. If this happens, you will have to change it.

Despite this drawback, it is one of the most suitable materials for roof insulation from the inside. It is easy to work with her, she has an affordable price. Strict adherence to technological instructions when working with it neutralizes possible disadvantages.

Styrofoam

This is a very popular and demanded material. But the use for warming the attic should be considered in more detail.

The material has individual characteristics that can be considered virtually unique.

This is its extremely low thermal conductivity, minimum weight, low moisture permeability, ideally rigid shape.

But along with these wonderful positive qualities, it also has obvious disadvantages. Different grades of material have different degrees of fire resistance. And for insulation, its flammable varieties are often used. And this is extremely dangerous. When ignited, the fire rises, and if the insulation catches fire, it will be almost unrealistic to survive in such a blazing attic.

It is not very convenient for work, so when cutting, cutting and installing it crumbles quite a lot. When using it, gaps remain between the rafters, and they have to be somehow repaired. From time to time, it collapses, and begins to crumble even more. Based on all of the above, we can conclude that using foam in this case is not very reasonable.

Extruded expanded polystyrene

This is a wonderful material for insulating the attic from the outside, for laying under the roof, on the rafters. It is quite durable, perfectly retains its shape, it is not afraid of high humidity and, which is very important, it does not burn. Special attention should be paid to the fact that insulation requires a not very thick layer - 5-10 cm.

Polyurethane foam

This is a new generation material. With the help of a special installation, it is blown into the voids of the material to be insulated, leaving no gaps and holes. Such spraying prevents the formation of cold bridges.

This material is not afraid of fire and water, it is lightweight, durable, keeps its shape well. But he also has a minus - he has an extremely low vapor permeability index: he hardly breathes. Consequently, without the arrangement of forced ventilation, there will always be high humidity in the attic.

Ecowool

Perhaps this is one of the most suitable materials for insulation from the inside, and its use is actually an ideal option.

He, like the previous one, penetrates into the smallest holes, filling all the gaps.

It is also extremely lightweight, is not afraid of moisture, does not support combustion at all and breathes perfectly.

In addition, its fundamental difference from other materials is that it is completely harmless to health and absolutely environmentally friendly. Neither the smallest particles, nor even the evaporation of ecowool can be applied, in contrast to the same mineral wool.

Attic roof: how to insulate from the inside

When choosing the best way to insulate the attic roof, you should pay attention not only to the performance characteristics of the insulating material, but also to the specific features of its application. The most convenient way to insulate a room is from the inside: if there are no contraindications to such, and space allows.

Various types of insulation are used for this - both mineral wool and extruded foam, ecowool or polyurethane foam are blown out. The key to the reliability and durability of materials is the observance of a competent combination, or "pie" of roof insulation. This will also ensure the comfort of living under it, that is, in the attic room.

Warming cake - from the inside out

When using wadded materials for insulation, a vapor barrier film must be used. With its help, mineral wool will not be exposed to moisture coming from the living space with steam.

If the glass wool is replaced with polyurethane foam or ecowool, there is no need for a vapor barrier.

Regardless of the chosen insulation, it will be required in any case. Its purpose is to protect the wooden parts of the roof structure. The role of waterproofing is played by special superdiffuse membranes, which are distinguished by special qualities.

They can release steam to the outside, but do not allow moisture to pass through. A gap must be left between the roof and the waterproofing membrane. Its size can vary from 4 cm to 10 cm, depending on the material and type of roof. Through it, excess steam will be removed from the insulation.

Attic: roof insulation from the outside

It is more convenient to do this while construction is still underway.If it is already finished, you will have to remove the roofing material. The external method of roof insulation keeps all the available living space intact. The solutions of some designers also suggest playing on the roof rafters as decorative elements of the interior).

Moisture is not afraid of him, and he does not need a vapor barrier. "Pie" for external insulation with expanded polystyrene looks like this:

• Extruded polystyrene foam in slabs;
• Waterproofing membrane;
• Ventilation gap with crate;
• Roof material.

An obvious plus of such insulation- free access to the rafters, at any time, facilitating their inspection and even repair. The Penoplex insulation method over the rafters differs in that it allows you to equip a heat-insulating protective layer completely, preventing the creation of cold bridges.

It is customary to insulate the front part of the attic together with the facade of the building, that is, from the outside. How to choose the right material for this? It depends on what was used in the construction of the house and, of course, the preferences and desires of the owner.

If a special hinged system is used for insulation, glass wool with waterproofing and vapor barrier films can be taken as a heater. And under the planned wet facade, you can successfully put the usual one. The main thing for success is strict adherence to technology.

Insulation for the attic roof: how to choose and which one is better

Why do you need to insulate the attic

Before examining in detail how to insulate the attic from the inside, it makes sense to consider the structural features of the pitched roof covering. It is a multi-layer system consisting of the following elements:

• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• ventilation air gap;
• waterproofing;
• external roof.

Some homeowners are trying to save on material by omitting one of the layers, but this can be a costly mistake later on. The fact is that, according to the laws of physics, heat always rises upward, and if the roof is poorly insulated, it will go out into the street, due to which the cost of heating the house will be significantly overestimated.

It is quite simple to determine a poorly insulated attic in winter: if at negative temperatures the snow does not lie on the roof, but melts, this means that the heated air penetrates through the roof layer.

It is worth saying that the negative consequences of insufficient attic insulation will be felt not only in winter, but also in summer: the summer sun heats the roofing to high temperatures, and heat penetrates into the room.

Insulation for the roof of the attic which is better

On the construction market there is a huge amount of thermal insulation materials with similar properties that can be used to insulate the attic.

Criterias of choice

When choosing insulation for a mansard roof, you should pay attention to several main factors:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• moisture resistance;
• environmental friendliness of the material.

The thermal conductivity coefficient is the main criterion for a heat-insulating material, which should be taken into account when deciding how to insulate a mansard roof. This coefficient reflects the ability of a material to release heat to the outside or to transmit it from the outside. The lower the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient for a heat insulator, the better its thermal insulation properties.

Fire resistance - the ability of a heat insulator to withstand exposure to high temperatures (fire). In contrast to the coefficient of thermal conductivity, the quality of the thermal insulation material is better at the maximum values ​​of fire resistance.

Moisture resistance is an indicator that reflects the ability of a material not to pass or absorb moisture. Living in the house will be comfortable only if the heat insulator does not emit carcinogenic substances. There are heat insulators that are made from natural materials, they are distinguished by the best environmental friendliness. All these indicators should be taken into account before insulating the attic from the inside.

What insulation is better for the attic

Taking into account the characteristics described above, you can start choosing the type of insulation, and then, the manufacturer. Consider the most popular insulators for the attic roof, these include:

• mineral wool;
• linen or cotton fabric insulation (a modern analogue of glass wool, has a fibrous structure, is breathable, environmentally friendly);
• glass wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam.

Mineral wool

From this list, mineral wool has the best characteristics: this porous heat insulator is made from mineral raw materials, which means it is highly environmentally friendly. In addition, this material is easy to work with, and you can use it to insulate the attic with your own hands. Among the disadvantages is the need for thorough waterproofing, since the material absorbs moisture and is prone to decay.

Mineral wool is fire resistant, and the thermal conductivity coefficient is in the range of 0.35-0.47. Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool allows for good heat conservation and good sound insulation.

Glass wool

Has the same properties as mineral wool, with greater strength. However, it has a low coefficient of fire resistance and is quite toxic when burning. Its cost is lower than other heat-insulating materials, therefore it is used quite often for insulating technical premises.

Mineral and glass wool are also distinguished by a very attractive price, therefore, insulation of the attic from the inside with these materials does not require significant investment.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Durable heat insulator, made in the form of plates with a porous structure. It repels moisture without absorbing or letting it in, therefore it is often used as an external (facade) insulation of load-bearing walls of a building and mansard walls, with a broken roof structure. The significant disadvantages of this heat insulator are high flammability, release of toxins during combustion and oxidation from heat, and air tightness.

Environmentally friendly and natural materials

Modern solutions are aimed at preserving health and the environment, contain a minimum of chemical fibers and are non-toxic when burning. Such building materials include domestic and foreign novelties for insulation, such as:

• Ecolin;
• Ecowool;
• Cotton fabric insulation.

The main differences between these materials are that they allow air to pass through, while providing high-quality heat and sound insulation. They are hypoallergenic and filter odors well. In addition, it is much easier to lay such insulation for the attic roof, since Ecolin and other fabric insulation do not emit toxic substances and practically do not disintegrate into fibers, you do not need PPE OD (personal respiratory protection) when working.

When laying ecowool through a sprayer, you must first cover the surface of the attic with a film, leaving a hole that can be insulated later. Also, it is recommended to cover the floor and walls, especially if the premises have already been used as residential premises and will not be subject to major repairs.

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside with your own hands video

Insulation of the attic roof: installation stages

So, the insulation material has been selected, now you can insulate the attic roof from the inside. This work consists of several stages:

• preparation of a place for installing insulation;
• installation of material;
• fastening the heat insulator.

The insulation is placed in a cellular structure in the space between the rafters, so the width of the mats of the heat insulator must correspond to the pitch of the rafters. The heat insulator is laid from the lower edge of the roof vault, while the heat insulator mats are overlapped. This technology allows you to minimize heat loss and reduce material waste.

With sudden changes in temperature outside the roof and inside the room, condensation forms. To remove this moisture, you need to take care of the arrangement of the ventilated space. This space is created by screwing the insulation onto the self-tapping screws to the rafters of a wooden counter-batten, the height of which will create a ventilation space.

To ensure the highest possible thermal insulation, it is necessary to exclude any cold bridges, therefore another thinner, continuous layer of material is laid on top of the rafters. The only drawback of this method is that visually the rafters become hidden, and subsequently the installation of new structural elements (most often facing) to them becomes difficult. The way out of the situation will be marks as a marker of the location of the rafters. If at any stage of the project implementation there are problems, the video will help to deal with controversial points, to carry out the insulation as efficiently as possible.

To protect the structure from moisture coming from the room, a vapor-proof film, which is attached over the insulation, will help. The next step is to fasten the structure with the lathing. At the final stage, reflective thermal insulation is performed, on top of which finishing can be carried out.

Do-it-yourself attic roof insulation video

Attic ceiling decoration

The final finishing of the attic ceiling has not only aesthetic, but also practical importance. Finishing the ceiling with fiberboard or plywood is one of the simplest and most inexpensive finishing options. In addition, these materials have their own coefficient of thermal conductivity equal to 0.2. This means that the ceiling will become an additional obstacle to the cold.

The French came up with the idea of ​​using the attic as a living space; they made it not just a room, but a place of relaxation. To achieve the same effect in your own home, you can use a stretch ceiling, which will help to hide the structural elements of the attic space and make it more attractive. Plus, a stretch ceiling can be very practical.

The fact is that, no matter how well you insulate the attic, the sound insulation of this room will still be much inferior to the main rooms (the thickness of the roof is significantly inferior to the thickness of the walls of the house). Therefore, in rain or hail, the attic can be a little noisy. A stretch ceiling will help to reduce this disadvantage.

Outcome

Using these instructions, you can achieve the fact that the once unattractive attic can be called with full confidence the French word attic. This room not only will not be inferior to all other rooms, on the contrary, at any time of the year and in any weather there will be a desire to be here.

The attic in the house is a space with great potential. It has a spacious area to serve as a place for storing things or seasonal vacations, and a non-trivial shape that can become the basis for the embodiment of design ideas. It is a big omission not to use its opportunities.

You can organize the space of the attic floor in different ways. But the most rational of them is the arrangement for living quarters. Self-insulation of the attic from the inside will help with this. The choice of material and the order of work will also not be difficult after a detailed consideration of the features of the materials and the process of insulation.

Why insulate?

A good, warm attic has a number of advantages over a non-insulated floor:

• Can be used as living quarters all year round.
• An uninteresting form is suitable for interior decoration in an unusual style.
• The upper floor, due to its isolation and uniqueness, can serve as a bedroom, study or children's room. Of course, children especially like it in the attic.
• Skylights are designed differently from ordinary ones and let in a lot of light. This is useful if a children's room is located there, and is also suitable for other purposes, because natural lighting is always better than artificial.
• When transferring the function of any room in the house to the attic floor, a lot of useful space is freed up.

At the same time, the insulation of the attic, despite the name, also works in the opposite direction. Summer stuffiness and heat concentrated under the roof of the house are not the best companions of comfort. To prevent the air in the attic floor from heating up because the sun heats the roof all day long, thermal insulation is needed.

Many people forget about this, choosing to insulate the attic from the inside, and instead of a room for all-season use, they get an option for wintering. It is impossible to be there in summer because of the high temperatures and stuffy air.

Why insulate the attic is clear: increase the usable area of ​​the house by converting the attic into a living space. Exactly what type of room this will be depends on the individual needs of the family. There may be a greenhouse, a dining room (which is very convenient, since it will be as easy as shelling pears to arrange a hood, and the smells of food will definitely not penetrate into other rooms), a children's room, a bedroom, an office, a room for pets, a dressing room, a guest room.

Roof design options

The convenience of the attic for living largely depends on its size and the shape of the roof, which forms the walls and ceiling of the room. The form also affects the complexity of the insulation procedure. The type of roof is laid during construction in accordance with the design of the building.

In total, there are about a dozen types of roofs, to one degree or another, suitable for arranging an attic:

• Shed. The slope can be on the left or right side. This determines the layout of the future house, designed in accordance with building codes. This type of roof is not the best, but also not the most inconvenient option for a living space. At least one half of the attic is suitable for a person to fit in it at full height and can move freely. The second can be reserved for organizing storage systems or a bed.

• Gable or gable. It is widespread in both symmetrical and asymmetrical versions. In an attic of this type, all free space is concentrated in the place where the roof has the highest point. There is less of it under the slopes, and if the slope is gentle, then most of the area will not be used.
• Hip. The roof has four slopes: two in the shape of a trapezoid, two in the shape of beveled triangles.

• Shatrovaya. A type of hip roof, which is erected over the base of a square-shaped house. All 4 slopes in this case have the same form of beveled triangles.
• Semi-hip. This is a kind of gable roof, in which, for practical purposes, the side slopes on the pediment are cut off. It is more convenient for arranging the attic floor than the previous two options.
• Slightly less common is the half-hip hipped roof. Its gable parts are formed by windows, and under them there are slopes.

• Mansard roof. It is recognized as optimal, since it is the closest to the cherished U-shaped living space. Such a roof does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of functional areas inside the attic floor. It can easily accommodate a child's room, which can later be converted into his own office or bedroom.
• Broken or multi-plated. These are options for complex design ideas. It is impossible to say unequivocally how suitable they are for arranging a warm attic, since their shape can be very diverse. But those species that are most similar to the U-shape are definitely suitable for this purpose.

Load calculation according to SNiP

When it comes to insulating the attic, it is necessary to consider several types of SNiP: general rules for the arrangement of residential premises and the rules for choosing materials for thermal insulation of a residential building.

• Calculation of the load on the supporting structures of the building. The own weight and thickness of materials, decorative finishes, interior arrangement of the attic significantly increase the load on the supporting structures in any type of house. The maximum permissible load for each option is different, but the planned changes should not exceed it.

• Correct assessment of the structures being built. For the reconstruction of a house, which in many cases will include the conversion of an attic into a residential attic, legal grounds are needed. Each case is different.

In one, if the documents are drawn up correctly and the construction of the house occurs immediately with the attic, it can be redone in any way without unnecessary red tape.

In a private house, the construction of an attic depends only on the height of the floors and compliance with the load norms on the supporting structures; in an apartment building, it is important to take into account its status. If it is an architectural monument, the construction of the attic will not work.

• Compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. They regulate the minimum height of the attic room, the degree of its illumination and insolation - protection from ultraviolet rays.
• The number of floors in the house. Building codes allow a maximum of three floors, while basement and basement rooms that protrude more than a meter above the ground are also considered. If, after insulating the attic, it becomes a full-fledged living space and the fourth floor in the house, then such a construction will be considered illegal. In theory, it should be demolished.

• The degree of fire resistance. It is measured in minutes and in most positions is:

1. for the lower floors 60 minutes,
2. for the attic - 30, since the fire spreads upward and the risk of fire on the lower floors from the attic is less.

When arranging an attic, especially a wooden one, for living quarters, you need to comply with all the requirements: treat the wood with special impregnations that prevent the spread of flame, choose fire-resistant materials, and lay high-quality communications.

It is also important to calculate which layer is needed when using different materials. As a rule, the recommended thickness and density of foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or foam glass is indicated by the manufacturer or GOST for a specific material.

Review of materials: pros and cons

The construction market offers the materials themselves in abundance. In this case, only insulation is not enough, since the technology implies the layer-by-layer use of materials for various purposes:

• Roof and wall material. These are the elements that form the basis of the attic space. The walls of the house can be wooden, brick, block. For the roof, choose profiled sheets, ondulin, slate, metal or ceramic tiles.
• Bars for counter-lattice. The timber is used wooden, mounted on the rafters. A counter grill is necessary to create air circulation so that condensation does not form under the roof sheet material.

• Windproof and waterproofing. Used polypropylene and polyethylene films, various non-woven roll materials. In priority films with anti-condensation coating. They are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm between the beams and the roofing material, glued together.
• Thermal insulation. Various types of insulation, which are laid at a distance of 25 cm from the waterproofing film under slate or tiles, and 45-50 cm under sheet materials.
• Vapor barrier. It is necessary on the outside of the insulation to protect it from vapors and moisture contained in the indoor air. Various film and foil materials are used to prevent the formation of condensation and the greenhouse effect.

• Internal lathing. Decorative finishing of the ceiling and walls. In some cases, when the height of the roof allows, you can "hem" the ceiling. The air space between it and the roof will make the thermal insulation more effective.

If there are no questions with most of the points, then the choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. Its choice is wide, which is both a plus and a minus, since it is necessary to evaluate a large number of options.

Insulate the attic:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• basalt type of cotton wool;
• polyurethane foam plates (PPU);
• extruded foam;
• penoplex;
• foam glass;
• construction foam;
• foil-clad and heat-reflecting material.

The use of sawdust for thermal insulation is a proven and effective method. It is cheap, the mixtures are prepared with their own hands, but with the availability of alternative materials, the method is already outdated. A lot of time is spent, working with sawdust is clean, but unpleasant, and the flooring will not differ in durability. Environmental cleanliness in this case is probably not at hand, because wood fibers are an excellent breeding ground for organisms.

Ordinary styrofoam is also a thing of the past. It has a number of advantages: low weight, low price, ease of installation alone, rather long service life, good insulating properties. But the disadvantages are still significant: fragility and fragility, retains moisture inside, a suitable environment for the reproduction of living organisms, a thick layer of material is needed.

Mineral wool is a more topical insulation material. Its advantages:

• high coefficient of thermal insulation;
• resistant to moisture, chemicals and alkalis;
• provides good ventilation in the room;
• helps to increase noise insulation;
• high coefficient of fire resistance;
• long service life;
• strength;
• safety for residential use.

Flaws:

• With poor organization of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers, falling on the material of precipitation, mineral wool loses several percent of its thermal conductivity.
• Capable of accumulating dust over time.
• High-quality mineral wool is quite expensive, but it is environmentally friendly. There are often fakes on the market in which the formaldehyde content exceeds the norm. They are harmful to health and are prohibited for use in residential premises.

Ecowool, in essence, is cellulose fibers in three quarters of the composition, and the remainder accounts for substances that allow the use of cellulose as a building material - borax and boric acid. They increase the fire resistance of cotton wool, prevent the appearance of microorganisms, fungi, and rot.

The advantages include the good ability of the insulation to keep warm in the room, not impede ventilation, high-quality insulating properties, natural and safe raw materials in the basis of ecowool.

The material also has a minus, and significant. Ecowool is not produced in the form of plates or sheets, it is a loose fiber that must be applied wet using special equipment. And to work with the equipment, you will need qualified installers.

In addition to ecowool, foreign manufacturers also offer other types of insulation based on plant fibers: ecolen and cotton fabric insulation.

Another type of cotton wool is basalt. It is related to the mineral. Since its components are present in the composition, the basis of the material is basalt rock. Basalt imparts unique qualities to the material.

Its advantages:

• components of organic origin without formaldehyde and harmful resins;
• thermal insulation qualities, noise insulation;
• does not ignite, does not support combustion;
• biostable;
• the plates are convenient and easy to use;
• serves for tens of years.

Flaws:

• high cost of insulation per square meter with basalt slabs;
• absorbs moisture well.

The third type of cotton wool - glass wool - has similar characteristics. It is more convenient to use, since the material is rolled.

Extruded foam or extruded polystyrene foam combines the qualities and advantages of mineral boards and conventional foam, thanks to a special production technology.

Its performance is mostly positive:

• lightweight, but durable - this allows you to use it for insulation in large quantities, to work with it just alone;
• closed pores of the material are moisture resistant;
• easy to cut into fragments, it is unbreakable and does not crumble;
• does not arouse interest, as a habitat, either in fungi or in rodents;
• low cost.

The disadvantages include: vapor permeability, low fire resistance.

The group of new generation gas-filled plastics also includes polyurethane foam (PPU). Its advantages make the material one of the best for insulating an attic floor: it is lightweight, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant, does not accumulate dust, does not attract living organisms, and is very durable.

There are two types: sheet and spray. Sheet material is very convenient in that it does not crumble in the process of cutting fragments and closely fits the part to the part. The sprayed type of protection creates a monolithic layer under the roof, due to which it is not afraid of precipitation and cold ingress. And also it has good adhesion to various surfaces, is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms and allows you to carry out installation work as soon as possible.

The sprayed material provides better thermal insulation and helps to muffle extraneous sounds, but it has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, for application, you will need an expensive service from professionals with special equipment. Secondly, it is so dense that it "does not breathe." Humid and stuffy air will accumulate in the room if additional ventilation was not possible.

It is advisable to use both types of PPU at the same time. Large areas are covered with sheet material, and hard-to-reach places and crevices are sprayed. This will completely solve the problem of even the coldest attic.

Foam glass is an uncommon and unfairly relegated material. The reason for this is simple - the price is very high. Foam glass, as the name implies, is obtained by foaming glass fiber. The result is a porous (cellular) material that is absolutely not susceptible to fire, safe, durable and meets all the requirements for insulation. If financial possibilities allow, then foam glass as thermal insulation should be considered first of all.

A separate group from the derivatives of plastic and glass are foil materials for insulating premises from the inside. By themselves, they have a small thickness, therefore they are often combined with various variations of foamed cellular materials, which are inside between two layers of foil.

The advantages of reflective materials are obvious:

• Light weight and small thickness. An attic is rarely large, especially considering that its dimensions are hidden by the shape of the roof, and a 20 mm foil sheet is much more practical than 200 mm of foam.
• The material is easy to cut, does not crumble, does not slip on the surface.
• There are variants of self-adhesive sheets, in which one side is covered with a reflective layer and the other with an adhesive adhesive. They greatly simplify installation work.
• Foil is an excellent heat reflector. Thanks to her abilities, in the cold season, heat does not leave the room, but in hot weather it remains outside.
• Reflective coatings are hydrophobic; they simply repel water.
• It is at the same time insulation from precipitation, dust, wind, cold.
• Despite the minimum thickness, it copes with the noise insulation function.
• Elastic and flexible.
• Biostable.
• Does not emit toxins and formaldehyde when heated.
• Long lasting.

How to choose?

The choice of a suitable insulation is a crucial stage in the arrangement of a living space on the attic floor.

There are several important factors to consider:

• Accounting for climatic conditions. If severe frosts are raging in the region in the cold season, you need to choose a cellular or porous insulation. Its structure allows warm air to fill empty spaces and keep the room warm. It works like PVC profiles and double-glazed windows. The more layers of cells, the better the material, so the layer thickness should be more than 1-2 cm.
• For regions with high humidity, the hydrophobicity of the material is in the first place. All types of cotton wool are undesirable here, but derivatives of polyethylene and plastic will be just right. You can safely use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
• With a large amount of precipitation in winter, giving a load on the roof, lightweight materials are preferable. For example, Styrofoam and Foil.

• Accounting for indicators of moisture and fire resistance. Even if the climate is not teeming with rain, protecting the insulation from moisture is very important. Wet material ceases to perform its functions, since its thermal conductivity changes, and gains weight.
• As for fire safety, it is rather the observance of all SNiP norms. Choosing a fire-resistant material is not difficult. Most manufacturers add substances called fire retardants to organic raw materials for the manufacture of insulation. They prevent the spread of fire.

• The ability of the material to keep its shape. Measured as modulus of elasticity and resistance to deformation. It depends on this whether it will create a monolithic reliable protection or will begin to sag and drafts and blown places will appear in the room. The undisputed leaders in this regard are not sheet materials, but sprayed materials.
• Material coefficients for several characteristics: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, sound insulation index.
• Composition of the substance. For the arrangement of a living room in the attic, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly materials, without resins, formaldehydes and toxic substances. Various impregnations are permissible if their presence meets the requirements of GOST.

The type of materials used in the finishing of the roof also matters.

For metal tiles

It is correct to carry out insulation of the attic ceiling under such material with the help of a layer that is not afraid of moisture. Features of the structure and installation of metal tiles are such that water can get under it. It is optimal here to use foamed materials based on plastic or glass, but if the choice fell on mineral wool, it is important to take care of a good waterproofing layer.

It is also necessary to choose a material with an anti-condensation coating. After the condensation reaches a certain temperature, it also turns into water that is dangerous for the insulating layer. The problem can be solved with polypropylene films, geotextile coatings and superdiffuse membranes.

The disadvantages of metal tiles include the fact that their unusual shape allows sediments to accumulate between the layers of the coating, which is almost impossible to make completely sealed. High-quality ventilation under the roof will help to minimize the damage from this as much as possible. Natural in this case may not be enough, it is necessary to equip a compulsory one.

Such problems also apply to ceramic embossing and slate sheets. They all have the same shape, which does not allow the sheets to fit closely.

For corrugated board

It is less problematic with respect to leaks and condensation, since the sheets are tighter, and the joints are treated with sealant and paint. But the material has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is very cold and the insulation must be of high quality and impressive in thickness. Secondly, during the rain, it is very noisy under the roofing made of corrugated board; you need a material with high sound absorption rates.

From the list of suitable materials, it is necessary to exclude thin foil sheets, fiberglass, cellulose insulation of the ecol type. Their thickness and sound insulation indicators are insufficient to ensure a comfortable stay in the attic under the roof decking.

For the attic above the bath

Along with the type of roofing materials, the location of the attic must be taken into account: either it is located above all living quarters, or above part of the house.

One of the problematic options is the attic above the bathhouse. With such an arrangement, it is difficult to equip a living space in it. It is more suitable for a relaxation room, a small living room or a play area, which is necessary after bath procedures.

The main difficulty in choosing materials lies in the microclimate of the room above the bath, which is different from the microclimate above the living rooms. The temperature and humidity conditions in it are unstable, and the possibility of condensation is very high. Of course, under such conditions, neither sawdust, nor cotton wool, nor ecological cellulose-based insulation are suitable. It requires hydrophobic materials like expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam, foil coatings, good vapor barrier, forced ventilation.

Winter residence houses

There is no universal solution for insulating the attic for winter residence. It all depends on the climatic conditions and materials used in the construction of the house.

Long and harsh winters - solid, porous, temperature-resistant insulation. Warm climate - any material suitable for the type of roof.

In a private wooden house, due to the properties of wood, to retain heat of a fairly thin insulation. Materials based on cellulose, glass or plastic are also suitable. You can use foil with a minimum thickness.

In brick houses with roofs made of corrugated board, tiles or slate, additional insulation in the form of air spaces is required. These can be dense porous materials and several layers between them. Insulation of a frame house does not require much effort, since its design already provides for all the features of specific climatic conditions. Any moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are suitable here.

How to insulate with your own hands?

The technology for creating thermal insulation in the attic is also available to non-professionals. The key to success is not in the experience of installation work, but in the correct selection of material, the sequential implementation of actions to create a continuous insulated contour and accuracy.

The procedure is as follows:

• Calculation of the permissible load and optimal material thickness.
• Selection of materials and necessary tools (including safety equipment).
• Premises preparation: cleaning, dedusting, processing of wooden structures with protective impregnations.
• Installation of the lathing. This is an important and mandatory step that amateurs unknowingly skip. The device for thermal insulation of the attic without lathing and counter-lathing is considered a gross mistake. It is nailed from the inside over the entire roof area.
• Laying a waterproofing film or diffuse membrane. The mount should not be tight, it is better to let the material sag a little. The sheets are overlapped on each other (15-25 cm) and fastened with tape or foil. A gap of 20 to 50 cm is required between the membrane and the crate.
• Insulation installation. The methods are different, depending on the type of material and the location of the rafters. Roll material can be attached with a slight overlap and fixed with tape or stapler. Insulation sheet for finishing the roof and walls is laid tightly, taking into account a slight shrinkage in the future. The abutment is made as close as possible, the seams are processed with tape. You can use screws and nails for very dense materials.

It is important to dock well in the corners of the pediment and in such difficult areas as the ridge, valley, overhangs. For this, small pieces of material are used, separated by an improvised way.

Particular attention is paid to the contour of the windows. The room will remain cold if warm air comes out through the cracks near the window.

The sequence is as follows: insulation of the roof, ceilings, pediment, partitions, walls. The floor can be insulated both before and after.

Floor insulation is more variable, since it is less influenced by precipitation, winds and frosts.

It can be dry backfill, sawdust, and mineral wool:

• Installation of vapor barrier. It is laid with an overlap, like a membrane, and is fixed in different ways. Typically, there is a line on the material that marks the width of the joint between two sheets.
• Lathing if necessary.
• Decorative finishing.

Frequent mistakes

The correct thermal pyrog for roof insulation is installed in compliance with many nuances.

Non-professionals often make the same mistakes that affect the quality of the thermal insulation of the attic:

• no ventilation gap from the ceiling to the membrane. As a result, the insulation freezes and ceases to work;
• strong sagging of the membrane - this reduces the gap required for ventilation and leads to the formation of condensation;
• attempts to save on insulating materials, laying them without the necessary joints, as a result of which gaps are formed and heat goes out, warming up the roof, and not the room;

• tamping the material to such an extent that it warps and crumples, losing its properties;
• unsewn cornices - this leads to the fact that precipitation gets free access to the insulation and saturates it with moisture;
• lack of ventilation;
• lack of tape or tape at the joints of the sheet material.

1. Use hard and dense materials or dusting. They are better fixed and do not deform in the process.
2. Increasing the distance between the attic ceiling and the top of the ridge will create an "air cushion" and improve the quality of the warm circuit.
3. It is better to leave the ventilation gap not only between the crate and the membrane, but also between the membrane and the insulation.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying of foundations, erection of walls, construction of a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying of internal communications, rough and final finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technologies, computer technology, programming.

Some time ago, I finished the execution of an order for insulation of the attic for winter living. While doing the work, I thought that the technology I used is quite simple and even an unprepared person can make thermal insulation from the inside with his own hands.

In today's article I will tell you what is better and how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. This guide will help you avoid the mistakes that I faced at the beginning of my construction career.

I assure you that at the end of the work, the attic floor of a wooden house will turn from an unnecessary storage of rubbish into a cozy and comfortable room, for living in which all your household members will fight.

Features and methods of insulation of the attic room

Before talking about the ways to insulate the under-roof space from the inside, I want to note that this is a must, even if you are not going to live in a house in winter. The fact is that the attic, due to the peculiarities of its location, is strongly warmed up by the sun in the summer, therefore, without a reliable insulating layer, the temperature inside will be uncomfortable (or you will have to install a very powerful air conditioner).

If you have already insulated ordinary living quarters and think you know how to insulate an attic, I have to disappoint you. The thermal insulation of the room under the roof (not the usual room on the second floor, namely the attic) has some features that I just have to mention:

1. The geometry of the attic space follows the contours of the pitched roof, therefore it is far from a standard cube or parallelepiped. The insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces, so the choice of heat-insulating material will have to be approached with special care. For example, the use of products that are too soft and flexible is completely excluded.
2. The roof rafter system and roof covering are always made of lightweight materials so as not to put a lot of stress on the load-bearing walls of the house. Consequently, the heat-insulating cake must also weigh so much as to make the structure only slightly heavier, otherwise the roof may collapse under a significant snow load.
3. In addition to the roof slopes, the attic has two more pediments and a floor (it is also an attic floor). If you do not perform thermal insulation of these surfaces, all efforts to install insulation in the rafters will not lead to any significant result.

1. Roofing material, no matter how reliable it is, can allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, which, in turn, can damage the insulation layer or significantly reduce its technical characteristics. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to reliably protect the thermal insulation from moisture.
2. When buildings are on fire, the fire usually moves to the top of the dwelling, where the attic is located. Therefore, in order to ensure the possibility of evacuating people from this room for thermal insulation, I personally recommend using non-flammable or poorly flammable heaters. After all, the matter is further aggravated by the fact that the roof truss system is made of wood, which cannot be attributed to the NG category.
3. Well, the last point is environmental friendliness. It is necessary to make sure that the insulation does not pose a danger to people living in the attic, regardless of the conditions of its operation - heating, humidification, freezing, and so on.

First, let's decide on the method of thermal insulation. There are two options:

1. Insulation of the attic walls. This method is used when the roof slopes are not attic walls. The role of the latter is played by additional partitions made of wood, drywall, plywood, and so on, which should be insulated.
   The advantage of this method is the presence of additional ventilated space under the roof. The downside is a decrease in the usable area of ​​the room.

1. Insulation of roof slopes. In this case, the heat insulator is installed in the rafter system, after which you can divide the spacious attic using thin partitions, without worrying about the cold or heat. The plus is that the entire under-roof space will be insulated. And with the help of partitions, you can divide it into several separate rooms, arranging an additional storage room in the attic room.

I prefer the second method of insulation, therefore, it will be discussed further.

Selection of materials and tools

It's time to decide how to insulate the attic room from the inside. To do this, you can use expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, polyurethane foam, ecowool and many other heat insulators that the domestic and foreign industry offers to purchase.

But I am insulating the attic with basalt wool. This material, in my opinion, best meets the requirements for the thermal insulation layer of such a room.

I will briefly list the most important advantages of basalt mats:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The material retains heat so well inside the room that for effective thermal insulation it is enough to install a layer 10 cm thick.
Hygroscopicity	Basalt fibers do not absorb water and have hydrophobic properties, so moisture that gets inside is quickly removed through the gaps without reducing the performance properties of the material.
Vapor permeability	The material does not interfere with air infiltration, normalizing the humidity in the attic and extending the life of the wooden parts.
Incombustibility	Basalt wool does not ignite in a fire and contributes to the damping of the flame, giving time for the evacuation of people or the elimination of the fire source.

I could talk for a long time about the advantages of mineral wool, but this is not the topic of today's article. Therefore, he simply noted the better to perform thermal insulation of the attic from the inside.

I prefer to use TechnoNICOL Technolight Extra basalt mats with a thickness of 10 cm, dimensions 120 by 60 cm. It is impractical to buy a denser material, since it will not experience a load between the rafters.

It is very important to pay attention to the dimensions of the material... I chose TechnoNicol mats because their width is 60 cm, and this is exactly the distance between adjacent rafters in the case I am describing.

In addition to the thermal insulation itself, other materials are also needed:

1. Wooden bars with a cross section of 30 by 50 mm, with the help of which a counter-lattice will be formed for ventilation gaps, which will help remove moisture.
2. Superdiffuse vapor-permeable hydro- and windproof membrane. These films are especially high quality from Strotex and Juta, so I recommend buying them.
3. Penofol. Thermal reflective material that I am going to use instead of the standard vapor barrier film that protects the mineral wool from moisture from inside the room.

1. Antiseptic primer. It is necessary to process the roof rafters with it in order to avoid the appearance of mold and mildew. You can buy a composition with fire retardants, thereby increasing the fire safety of the building.
2. OSB boards. They will be needed for the design of the lathing on which flexible tiles are laid on one side and eurolining on the other. If you are going to use other materials, you may not need a solid sheathing.
3. Polyurethane foam. Suitable for sealing joints between mineral mats.
4. U-shaped perforated brackets for mounting galvanized battens. With me they will hold the installed mineral mats in place until they are sewn up with decorative material.

Well, now you can safely proceed to how to insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands.

Arrangement of insulation

The whole process of warming can be conditionally divided into several steps:

So, I will explain how to correctly do the work with your own hands in each of the stages mentioned.

Step 1 - Laying waterproofing and roofing material

Let's start with the installation of the waterproofing membrane, as it is installed outside the room before the roofing is fixed. This is the only way to reliably protect the insulating layer from atmospheric moisture.

I must say right away that the entire roof truss system in the case I am describing was installed. However, the roofing material and the lathing on it have not yet been installed.

The process consists of the following steps:

1. I roll out the first layer of waterproof and windproof membrane. You need to start work from the bottom of the roof slope, gradually moving upward. The membrane is secured with staples and a construction stapler or wide-headed nails. It is necessary to install the film not in tension, but with a slight sagging (about 2 cm per meter), so that when the air temperature decreases, it does not break.

1. I put the second and subsequent sheets of waterproofing film. You need to act in the same way as in the previous paragraph. But there is one point here. The edge of the upper membrane should overlap the edge of the lower one by a distance of 10 cm to ensure complete impermeability to moisture.

1. I seal the seams of the membrane. For this, sticky tape is used. It just needs to be glued to the joints of adjacent waterproofing membranes.
2. I install the counter batten. Its role is played by wooden bars, which are fixed with self-tapping screws on top of the waterproofing membrane on the rafter supports. Beforehand, I recommend impregnating them with an antiseptic and fire retardant in order to extend the life of the roofing structure.
3. I fix the boards of the additional sheathing. They are installed perpendicular to the rafters and fastened with self-tapping screws to the counter-lattice. The step between adjacent parts is about 40 cm.

1. I install OSB base plates. They are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Here you need to monitor the length of the fastening fittings so that screws that are too long do not break the waterproof and windproof membrane located below.

1. I am assembling a flexible roof. To do this, a lining carpet is glued to the slabs, after which shingles of flexible tiles are fixed on it.

If you are insulating an attic with a finished roof, then the waterproofing membrane will have to be installed from the inside. This method has two drawbacks:

• the labor intensity of the work being carried out increases;
• the waterproofing film will not protect the wooden roof rafters.

It is necessary to fix and seal the film so that it wraps around the rafters and adjoins the roof sheathing. Thus, a kind of baths are formed, in which the insulating material will be invested.

But before that, it is necessary to prepare the under-roof space for the installation of mineral mats.

Step 2 - Preparing the rafter system

I prepare the space under the roof, namely the rafter system for thermal insulation:

1. I clean wooden parts of dust and debris, remove objects that interfere with the installation of mineral mats. It is best to clean the rafters with a vacuum cleaner, which will remove dust, sawdust and shavings left after installing the roofing material. You should also check if the sharp ends of screws, nails, and so on are sticking out from anywhere. They can cause injury or damage insulation materials.

1. I install engineering communications and insulate them. Ventilation and stove pipes can be installed on the roof, as well as the electrical wiring necessary to connect household appliances in the attic room:
   • Ventilation pipes, if they are laid in a non-insulated part of the attic, must be thermally insulated with mineral wool or foam shells.
   • For the chimney, a duct should be designed to pass through the attic floor and the roof. They must be covered with heat-insulating material (most often perlite or expanded clay), which will increase the fire safety of the room.
   • Electrical wiring should be placed in plastic flexible or rigid cable ducts, which will prevent the rafters and insulation from igniting in the event of a short circuit.

1. A primed wooden surface. For work, it is better to use a universal composition that has both antiseptic and fire-fighting properties. For example, the composition for wood BS-13 or Firebiozaschita Guardian-2. It should be applied to wooden parts using a roller or spray, after processing in two layers with intermediate drying for 3 or 4 hours.

1. I install U-shaped brackets on the side surfaces of the rafters. It is not necessary to use them, since with the correct installation of the rafters, the mineral mats become tightly buried anyway. But I'm used to being reinsured, and their purchase does not hit the budget planned for insulation much. But if you use cotton wool in rolls, you can't do without it.

Step 3 - Installation of thermal insulation

Warming of the attic from the inside continues. Moving on to the main part:

1. I cut mats. The mineral wool is cut into the required pieces using a sharp knife or a file with very fine teeth. If the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation, you will practically not have to trim.

1. I install mats between the rafters. To do this, you need to bend the material a little in the middle, and then insert the insulation in the right place. Having straightened out, the basalt mat will take its intended place and will not fall out of the inclined surface.

1. I fix the mats with brackets. You just need to bend part of the bracket so that its edge is on the surface of the mat and holds it in place. Instead of brackets, galvanized perforated strips can be used, which are attached directly to the lower edges of the rafters.
2. I seal the seams of the material with polyurethane foam. Fill the gaps with a pistol. Moreover, act so that the composition is inside the entire gap, and not only on its surface. If you make a mistake at this stage, cold bridges may form at the joints, which will reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

To increase the reliability of the heat-insulating layer, you can install not one, but two layers of insulation. Only take mineral mats not 10, but 5 cm thick. Then the individual layers are installed so that the joints are at random. And there is no need to be afraid of cold bridges, although it is still worth sealing the seams.

Step 4 - finishing coat

Decorative finishing of the enclosing structures of the attic space is as follows:

1. I install a heat-reflecting and vapor barrier layer. As you understand, for this I will use penofol - polyethylene foam with a reflective layer of polished aluminum foil. It is mounted as follows:
   • The first sheet of foam foil is installed with a foil layer towards the living quarters, after which it is aimed at the rafters using a construction stapler.
   • A second and subsequent sheets of material are installed so that there is an overlap of 10 cm between the individual elements.
   • Penofol joints are glued with double-sided adhesive tape (inside the joint) or metallized tape (which is glued on top of the joint). It is necessary to make sure that a completely homogeneous and sealed layer is formed.
   • If the thickness of your rafters is such that the edge of the insulation does not reach the cut of the tree, then penofol must be laid over the surface of the mineral wool, fixing it on the side surface of the supporting beams of the roof. Otherwise, it may rustle when air passes through the ventilation gap.

1. I mount the counter-lathing beams for arranging the ventilation gap. It is necessary to fasten the strips with self-tapping screws to the rafters on top of the foam foam. Thanks to these details, a gap is created between the finish and the heat-reflecting surface, which is necessary to remove condensed moisture.

1. Install OSB boards... They are attached to the counter grill with self-tapping screws. Everything is standard here, with the exception of some small nuances:
   • It is necessary to install the sheets so that at the edges (at the gables and the floor) there is a gap of 1-2 cm thick. It is necessary to remove excess moisture and compensate for possible changes in the size of the material.
   • The seams between adjacent slabs should be scattered (staggered) and be 2-3 mm thick in order to avoid warping of the surface during thermal expansion of the base.
   • It is necessary to fix the plates so that their edges are located on the bars of the counter-lattice. The distance between the screws is no more than 20 cm.

Later, you can install euro lining or other decorative material on the plates. And we have ahead of us the warming of the gables, which form two of the four walls of the attic room.

Step 5 - Warming the gables

I strongly advise these parts of the attic to be insulated from the outside using dense mineral wool, which can be covered with cement plaster on top. The scheme of work is as follows:

1. Preparing the surface for work. To do this, you need to clean the surface of the walls from the remnants of mortars, debris, dirt and dust. After that, the following operations are performed:
   • Damage repair. If cracks and cracks are found in the masonry, they must be sealed with cement mortar or blown out with polyurethane foam.
   • Surface priming. To do this, you need to take a primer for brick or (not the one with which you processed the rafters), and then cover the gables with it in two layers with intermediate drying.

1. I'm editing the start profile. This is a perforated galvanized part, on which the insulating layer will rest. It is fixed at the bottom of the wall strictly horizontally. If several of these parts are needed, install them with a small clearance to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

1. I glue the first row of mineral mats. Let me remind you that you need to use dense mineral wool, which is intended for subsequent finishing with cement mortar. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • The surface of the mineral wool is pre-reinforced with cement glue, which is evenly spread over the slab using a spatula.

• A bead of cement glue is applied to the mineral wool at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. A few lumps of glue are also placed in the middle of the mat so that at least 40% of the sheet surface is covered.
• The part is attached to the wall. at the same time, its lower end must be supported by a pre-installed starting profile. Using the water level, it is necessary to check that the basalt mat is installed strictly vertically in all planes.
• Behind the first layer, other mats are glued to the wall in the same way. It is necessary to monitor the verticals, and that the seams between adjacent parts are minimal.

1. I glue the second and subsequent rows of mineral mats. There are no differences in comparison with the procedure described in the previous paragraph. You just need to make sure that the vertical run at a run. That is, the seam of the upper row fell in the middle of the insulation sheet of the lower row (as in brickwork).
2. After the solution hardens, I fix the insulating layer with dowels - "fungi". They are installed as follows:
   • A hole is drilled directly through the mineral mats in the wall using a perforator, the depth of which in the brick or concrete must exceed 2 cm.
   • A dowel is inserted into the resulting hole, after which the core is installed inside.
   • Using a hammer, the core is hammered into the dowel so that its head is slightly recessed into the surface of the insulation.
   • It is not only mineral mats that need to be fixed. "Fungi" should be installed in the seams of the insulating material so that the insulating layer does not come off under load.

1. I seal the seams of the material. To insulate the seams, polyurethane foam is used, which glues the fibers of the insulation together, preventing the formation of cold bridges at the joints of neighboring mineral plates. It is necessary to fill the seam with a gun as tightly as possible.
2. I reinforce the surface of the insulation with an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. For this, mineral mats are covered with a reinforcing compound, after which a mesh is placed on it and pressed into the solution with a plaster float. Then a little more solution is applied on top so as to completely hide the mesh inside.
3. I perform plastering of the surface. The reinforced insulated surface of the gables is plastered, after which it is decorated with the selected decorative material. In the simplest case, you can simply paint the pediment with facade paint.

That's all. Some still resort to thermal insulation of the interfloor overlap, but with such a powerful insulation, which I described, I consider this procedure unnecessary.

Summary

Now you know how to independently carry out the correct insulation of the walls in the attic and the floor with your own hands using mineral wool at the lowest cost. However, there are other options as well.

For example, sprayed polystyrene foam, with the help of which the thermal insulation of complex areas, including the Mauerlat in the heated attic, is easily performed. You can learn how to spray PPU yourself from the video in this article.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments!

The attic above the bathhouse is a great way to have additional comfortable rooms with relatively little loss of time and money. But the comfort of the premises can be achieved only under one condition - all construction operations will be carried out in strict accordance with the existing requirements of building codes and regulations.

Of course, in this case, it is necessary to take into account both the architectural features of the structure and the climatic zone of residence. Any heating costs money, we will tell you how not to throw them away, what conditions to comply with in order to guarantee the desired effect.

You need to start, as always, from the very beginning. The effectiveness of insulation largely depends on the selected material, you need to understand their features and characteristics, only such knowledge will help you make the best choice of building materials in each specific case.

Today, there are so many different thermal insulation materials produced that it is very difficult for some consumers to figure it out. Manufacturers often take advantage of this, and with the help of not entirely honest advertising, they artificially inflate prices for their products. Let's consider some of the most striking examples.

It sounds tempting, not everyone understands, but attractive, as the manufacturers call their products. The phrase “environmentally friendly” is necessarily added to these words, and the consumer is ready to pay big money. At the same time, the companies "modestly" keep silent that basalt volcanic rocks are 60-80% composed of ordinary glass, and the rest are impurities that are removed during production.

In principle, their products are ordinary, long-known glass wool. Due to the use of "free" glass, the cost of mineral wool should be much less than the cost of glass wool. But advertising does its job, due to its action, the price increases significantly.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Glass wool

Previously, it was difficult to work with glass wool; it caused rather unpleasant irritations on the skin. Outdated technologies did not allow making the fibers very thin. The thick glass fibers were strong enough to damage the top layers of the skin. Now technologies make it possible to reduce the diameter of glass fibers to 6 microns, to the touch such products are no different from cotton wool.

But the buyer reacts negatively to the word "glass wool", manufacturers do not use it today. A striking example of expensive ordinary glass wool is the Isover brand. An incomprehensible word and the absence of "glass" enables manufacturers to raise the price of their ordinary glass products.

What do we recommend? For attic insulation, mineral or glass wool is an excellent material in all respects, but you should not buy fashionable promoted brands. Their performance does not quite match the high price tag. There is an opportunity to buy glass wool - take it, in quality it is no worse than the most fashionable names, and at a cost it is cheaper by thirty percent. Any mineral wool is safe for health, unlike other modern heat-insulating materials.

Another tip for mineral wool. It can be rolled or pressed.

Insulating the attic with rolled mineral wool will cost about one and a half times cheaper than pressed. The thermal conductivity of both options differs by no more than twenty percent. Think before you start insulating the attic in the bath.

Glass wool prices

glass wool

A few words about polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam and ecowool

These are the so-called "budgetary" thermal insulation materials, the average price is one and a half to two times lower than that of mineral wool. The main common disadvantage is that they release chemical compounds into the air. The amount of these compounds is regulated by the sanitary authorities, but they are always present in one percentage or another.

Very technological, easy to cut, not afraid of moisture. But he is afraid of rodents, after a few years they can "grind" the foam sheets into powder, it will crumble and, as a result, the quality of thermal insulation will decrease.

The "sibling" of polystyrene, universal use, has slightly increased physical strength.

Polyurethane foam

The most "harmful" insulation, it is not recommended to use it for living quarters. The main advantage is that it is applied in liquid form to any complex surfaces. After cooling, forms an impermeable coating.

It is also sprayed on, can be used for insulation in hard-to-reach places of finished buildings. It is made from woodworking waste and waste paper, soaked with antiseptics to slow down the decay processes. And then here "eco" is understood only by advertising agents of manufacturing companies.

We hope that this knowledge will allow you to consciously select materials for insulation of the attic, we are sure that additional knowledge has not hindered anyone yet. Now you can talk about the technology for performing work on the insulation of the attic above the bathhouse. We will consider the two most common options - mineral wool and foam sheets were used as insulation.

Styrofoam prices

expanded polystyrene

Insulation of the attic must be started even during the construction of the roof. It is imperative to put waterproofing between the roofing and the rafter system. Let's start with the roof. Initial data: a waterproof membrane has already been installed during roofing.

Step 1. Carefully inspect all wooden parts of the rafter system. They must be in excellent condition; after they are insulated from the inside, access to them will become impossible. Take measurements of the roof, purchase materials. We recommend using pressed mineral wool mats.

Nominal dimensions of mats and maximum deviations from nominal dimensions in accordance with GOST 21880-94

For the price, this material is in the middle price segment; in terms of its performance characteristics, it is completely suitable for use during insulation. Increase the measured amount of mineral wool by at least 10%.

For effective roof insulation, the thickness of the mineral wool must be at least ten centimeters; in colder regions, the thickness must be increased to 15 centimeters. Mineral wool is sold in thicknesses of 5 and 10 cm. If you buy the material in rolls, you will be able to make the roof insulation almost seamless - heat losses from the interior will decrease.

Step 2. It is very good when the builders, during the construction of the rafter system, calculated the distance between the rafters, taking into account the width of the mineral wool mats. This will not only speed up the work, but also reduce the amount of unproductive waste of material. The distance between the rafters should be 1 ÷ 2 centimeters less than the width of the mat, the edges of the mute will shrink and provide a tight, stable fit. If this is not done, measure the dimensions between the rafters, add one or two centimeters to them and cut off the mats.

Step 3. Insert cotton wool between the rafters.

If you need to increase the width of the mats by using thin strips, you will have to fix the sheets with hardware. Use thin studs with wide caps or mushroom dowels. It is difficult to find such in the store - increase the diameter of the caps yourself. Make special washers from thick polyethylene, galvanized sheet, pieces of fiberboard and other hard, thin materials. Carnations need to be driven into the battens of the crate.

Perform this operation very carefully. What is the reason for caution? Firstly, the sharp part of the nails should not pierce the slats through - the waterproofing may be damaged. Secondly, the mats should not be compressed in the places of fixation, the caps should only support the material in the right position.

Do not allow gaps and gaps between the joints of the hotel pieces. If you decide to put cotton wool in two layers, then the joints should overlap. Some manufacturers make the surfaces of the mats different on different sides. On the one hand, they are smooth, on the other, rough. The smooth side has good water-repellent properties, it must be placed against the roofing, the rough surface of the mat must be turned into the room. Thus, additional protection of the insulation against moisture penetration will be provided.

Install insulation on the entire roof area using this scheme. Pay attention that the mineral wool is more or less firmly in the niches; if problem areas are found, strengthen it additionally.

Important. Mineral wool mats with a height of more than three meters must not be laid, as it can shrink. And this will result in a significant loss of heat from the room. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, we recommend making wooden jumpers at the required distance as necessary.

Step 4. Now you need to protect the insulation from moisture. Water condenses from moisture in the so-called dew points, and they will always be located in the insulation layer.

Water in cotton wool is a big problem. The fact is that wet mineral wool sharply deteriorates its heat-saving performance. And that's not all the problems. Natural ventilation is almost completely absent in the "pie"; wet cotton dries for a very long time. At the same time, all this time, direct contact of the waterlogged material with the rafters is maintained. In conditions of high humidity and high temperatures, destructive processes begin very quickly in wooden structures. Moreover, no one treats the rafters with antiseptics.

The vapor barrier layer is laid in rows from bottom to top, the overlap of the material is at least ten centimeters. To ensure complete tightness, the seams must be sealed with tape. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the rafters.

Step 5. Create a batten to hold the finishing boards in place.

For lathing, you can use 20 × 50 slats or cheap types of boards of the same thickness. The lathing parameters depend on the linear characteristics of the upholstery material. Plasterboard, plywood, or OSB can be used. Natural lining looks great, but this is the most expensive roof sheathing option.

Video - Roof insulation with mineral wool

Foam insulation

We insulate the attic with foam

The thickness of the foam sheets must also be selected taking into account the climatic zone of residence. Universal can be considered 10 ÷ 15 centimeters; to achieve such a thickness, the foam will have to be laid in two layers.

There are two ways to fix foam boards:

• the first, cheaper, - with ordinary thin carnations with large caps to the roof lath. This method is no different from that described above in the case of mineral wool insulation;
• the second method is construction foam. It is somewhat more expensive and longer in time, but of higher quality.

Choosing polyurethane foam

Important. Do not buy household foam, only use professional foam.

Household foam comes with a plastic tube through which the foam is delivered to the desired location.

Everything seems to be fine, you can work, and at a cost it is somewhat cheaper than a professional one. But this is not the case. Firstly, if you did not manage to immediately use up the entire cylinder of household foam at once, then after half an hour you can throw all the leftovers into the trash. It will freeze and it will be impossible to use it further.

Secondly, it is very inconvenient to use a flexible tube to fill narrow gaps. The tube bends at the slightest effort, it needs to be guided with the other hand, and this "technology" does not always work.

Professional foam has a significantly improved quality, and a special gun makes it possible to use one started cylinder at any time until it is completely used up.

The cost of a pistol varies, but on average does not exceed the cost of three foam cylinders. Within a few days of performing work on the insulation of the attic of the bath, it will pay off and begin to bring direct profit.

Model	Price
	RUB 350
	RUB 810
	RUB 660
	RUB 1,520

The tube of the gun is metal, it allows you to foam the narrowest slots without any problems.

It will take more than one day and more than one cylinder of foam to insulate the attic, do not throw money in the trash can, immediately buy a professional gun and polyurethane foam.

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

Attic insulation technology with foam

So, the materials have been purchased, you can start work on insulation. And in this case, we will take into account that there is already waterproofing under the roofing.

Now it is needed not so much to prevent the foam from getting wet (it is not afraid of water), but to guarantee protection against moisture in the rafter system. After insulation with foam, natural ventilation is completely blocked, wet rafters will quickly begin to rot with all the unpleasant consequences.

In the example of performing insulation, we will use the method of working with polyurethane foam.

Step 1. Remove the distance to the honey with rafters, transfer them to a sheet of foam and cut insulation along the lines.

It is better to cut thin foam with a sharp construction knife; to cut thick foam (more than five centimeters), use an ordinary hand saw.

During cutting, the measuring line should be left intact, which will increase the dimensions by a few millimeters and thereby increase the strength of pressing the sheet against the rafters.

Video - Cutting foam with a hairdryer with a nozzle

Step 2. Using foam from the gun, gently paint a thin, continuous line on the rafters where the bottom of the foam sheet meets, let it dry for about five minutes. The fact is, the foam is poorly retained on fresh foam, in addition, in the places of pressing, it ceases to increase in volume - there are risks of the formation of open cracks.

Step 3. Carefully insert the styrofoam into the desired location. It is highly desirable that the surface of the sheet does not touch the waterproofing layer. In these places, a dew point may appear, and condensed water will fall on the elements of the rafter system. This is a very undesirable phenomenon.

Step 4. Continue to apply the first layer of Styrofoam in the same way.

To keep things moving fast, organize them correctly. In the few minutes that the foam dries up, you need to take the dimensions of the next sheet and cut it out. Apply a line of foam under the second sheet and prepare the third sheet. Inserted the second - work in the same way with the next one. This algorithm for carrying out work makes it possible to significantly reduce the time for warming the attic.

Foam all joints between individual sheets. At first, it is difficult to guess the amount of foam, but after a few sheets experience will appear and the foam will fall as much as necessary.

Step 5... The first layer is in place - start preparatory work under the second layer of foam. With a sharp knife, cut off all the foam protruding beyond the plane of the insulation, the fit of the two layers should be as tight as possible.

Once again check the tightness of the joints, if problem areas are found, you need to fix them by foaming.

Step 6. Start laying the second layer of Styrofoam.

Very important. The joints must necessarily overlap. This achieves an increased guarantee of tightness.

Step 7. The process of laying the second layer of foam is no different from the above. We remind you once again - do the work very carefully and accurately. Small gaps not only increase heat loss, they are not even the main problem. The trouble is that it is these slots on the inner side of the sheathing that there will be a dew point, small areas of plywood, OSB or drywall will be constantly wet. And this will certainly become noticeable over time on the finishing of the walls - spots will appear on the wallpaper or decorative plaster.

Step 8. Although the foam is not afraid of moisture, we strongly recommend that you make a vapor barrier. Without it, humid air can penetrate to the wooden structures of the rafter system and condense on them. You already know what awaits the elements of the roof in this case.

Step 9. Nail the lathing under the upholstery boards and proceed with the finishing.

Video - Roof insulation with foam

Gable walls

The insulation of these structures has features depending on the method of building the bath. If the gables are made of the same material as the front walls (timber, foam blocks, bricks), then niches for foam or mineral wool should be made before they are insulated. For them, boards or slats with a width of at least the thickness of the insulation material should be used.

If the gables are made of vertical supports, lined with clapboard outside, then no preliminary preparation is required. In most cases, a board of 50 × 150 mm is used for the vertical supports of the rafter system, and this width is quite enough for high-quality wall insulation.

Floors

Most of the baths in all rooms have insulated streams, which means that the attic floors do not need such construction activities. If the bath ceilings for some reason do not have thermal insulation, you will have to do it. Although there are options here - the non-insulated ceiling of the premises in the bath automatically makes the attic floors warm. Decide for yourself what to do in your case. Take into account the specific purpose of the attic in the bath, the frequency and time of using these premises.

If you decide to insulate the floor, you can use the same foam or mineral wool. The laying technology has one fundamental difference - the vapor barrier layer must be placed under the thermal insulation, and the waterproofing layer on top.

Conclusion

Never skimp on the thickness of the insulation layer. If it gets too hot, you can always open the windows to ventilate the premises. And if it is too cold, you will have to spend additional substantial funds for heating to comfortable temperature values.

We did not consider the options with ecowool and liquid polyurethane foam for several reasons.

Video - How to insulate an attic

Video - Correct insulation of the attic and attic ceiling