Insulation of the attic from the inside. Thermal insulation of the attic room independently. Installing a heat insulator on the rafters from the inside

The attic above the bath is a great way to have additional comfortable rooms with relatively little loss of time and money. But the comfort of the premises can be achieved only under one condition - all construction operations will be carried out in strict accordance with the existing requirements of building codes and regulations.

Of course, in this case, it is necessary to take into account both the architectural features of the structure and the climatic zone of residence. Any warming costs money, we will tell you how not to throw it to the wind, what conditions to follow in order to guarantee the desired effect.

You need to start, as always, from the very beginning. The effectiveness of insulation largely depends on the chosen material, you need to understand their features and characteristics, only such knowledge will help you make the best choice of building materials in each case.

Today, so many different thermal insulation materials are produced that it is very difficult for some consumers to figure it out. Manufacturers often take advantage of this, and with the help of not entirely honest advertising, they artificially inflate the prices of their products. Let's look at some of the most striking examples.

It sounds tempting, not everyone understands, but attractive, as manufacturers call their products. The phrase “environmentally friendly” is necessarily added to these words, and the consumer is ready to pay big money. At the same time, the companies “modestly” keep silent that basalt volcanic rocks are 60-80% ordinary glass, and the rest are impurities that are removed during production.

In principle, their products are ordinary long-known glass wool. Due to the use of "free" glass, the cost of mineral wool should be much less than the cost of glass wool. But advertising does its job, due to its action, the price increases significantly.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

glass wool

Previously, glass wool was difficult to work with, it caused rather unpleasant irritations on the skin. Outdated technologies did not allow making the fibers very thin. The thick glass fibers were strong enough to damage the top layers of the skin. Now technology makes it possible to reduce the diameter of glass fibers to 6 microns, to the touch such products are no different from cotton wool.

But the buyer reacts negatively to the word "glass wool", manufacturers do not use it today. A striking example of expensive ordinary glass wool is the Izover brand. An incomprehensible word and the absence of "glass" makes it possible for manufacturers to raise the price of their goods made of ordinary glass.

What do we recommend? For attic insulation, mineral or glass wool is an excellent material in all respects, but you should not buy fashionable well-known brands. Their performance does not quite meet the high price. There is an opportunity to buy glass wool - take it, in quality it is no worse than the most fashionable names, and at a cost thirty percent cheaper. Any mineral wool is safe for health, unlike other modern thermal insulation materials.

Another tip for mineral wool. It can be rolled or pressed.

Insulating the attic with rolled mineral wool will cost about one and a half times cheaper than pressed one. The thermal conductivity of both options differs by no more than twenty percent. Think before you start warming the attic in the bath.

glass wool prices

glass wool

A few words about polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam and ecowool

These are the so-called "budget" heat-insulating materials, the average price is one and a half to two times lower than that of mineral wool. The main common drawback is that chemical compounds are released into the air. The number of these compounds is regulated by the sanitary authorities, but they are necessarily present in one percentage or another.

Very technologically advanced, easy to cut, not afraid of moisture. But he is afraid of rodents, after a few years they can “grind” foam sheets into powder, it will crumble and, as a result, the quality of thermal insulation will decrease.

The "sibling" of polystyrene, universal use, has slightly increased physical strength.

polyurethane foam

The most "harmful" insulation, it is not recommended to be used for residential premises. The main advantage is that it is applied in liquid form to any complex surfaces. After cooling, it forms an impervious coating.

Also sprayed, can be used for insulation in hard-to-reach places of finished buildings. It is made from woodworking waste and waste paper; to slow down the processes of decay, it is impregnated with antiseptics. And then here "eco" is understood only by advertising agents of manufacturing companies.

We hope that this knowledge will allow you to consciously select materials for attic insulation, we are sure that additional knowledge has not bothered anyone yet. Now you can talk about the technology for performing work on the insulation of the attic above the bath. We will consider the two most common options - mineral wool and foam sheets were used as heaters.

Styrofoam prices

polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic must begin even during the construction of the roof. Waterproofing must be placed between the roofing and the rafter system. Let's start with the roof. Initial data: during the roofing, a waterproof membrane has already been installed.

Step 1. Carefully inspect all wooden nodes of the truss system. They must be in excellent condition, after warming from the inside, access to them will become impossible. Measure the roof, purchase materials. We recommend using pressed mineral wool mats.

Nominal dimensions of mats and maximum deviations from nominal dimensions according to GOST 21880-94

For the price, this material is in the middle price segment; in terms of its performance, it is completely suitable for use during insulation. Increase the measured amount of mineral wool by at least 10%.

For effective roof insulation, the thickness of mineral wool should be at least ten centimeters; in colder regions, the thickness should be increased to 15 centimeters. Mineral wool is sold in thicknesses of 5 and 10 cm. If you buy the material in rolls, you will be able to make the roof insulation almost seamless - heat losses from the interior will decrease.

Step 2 It is very good when the builders, during the construction of the rafter system, calculated the distance between the rafters, taking into account the width of the mineral wool mats. This will not only speed up the work, but also reduce the amount of unproductive waste of material. The distance between the rafters should be 1 ÷ 2 centimeters less than the width of the mat, the edges of the mute will shrink and provide a tight, stable fit. If this is not done, measure the dimensions between the rafters, add one or two centimeters to them and cut off the mats.

Step 3 Insert cotton wool between the rafters.

If you need to increase the width of the mats by using thin strips, then you will have to fix the sheets with hardware. Use thin carnations with wide caps or mushroom dowels. It is difficult to find these in the store - increase the diameter of the hats yourself. Make special washers from thick polyethylene, galvanized sheet, pieces of fiberboard and other hard thin materials. Carnations need to be driven into the laths of the crate.

Perform this operation very carefully. What is caution about? Firstly, the sharp part of the studs should not pierce the slats through - the waterproofing may be damaged. Secondly, the mats should not compress at the fixation points, the caps should only support the material in the desired position.

Avoid gaps and gaps between the joints of hotel pieces. If you decide to put cotton wool in two layers, then the joints should overlap. Some manufacturers make the surfaces of the mats different from different sides. On the one hand they are smooth, on the other rough. The smooth side has good water-repellent properties, it must be laid against the roofing, the rough surface of the mat must be facing into the room. Thus, additional protection of the insulation against moisture penetration will be provided.

According to this scheme, install insulation on the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roof. Pay attention that mineral wool sits more or less firmly in niches, if problem areas are found, further strengthen it.

Important. It is impossible to lay mineral wool mats with a height of more than three meters, it can shrink. And this will result in a significant loss of heat from the room. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, we recommend making wooden jumpers as needed at the right distance.

Step 4 Now you should protect the insulation from moisture. Water condenses from moisture at the so-called dew points, and they will always be located in the insulation layer.

Water in cotton wool is a big problem. The fact is that wet mineral wool drastically worsens its heat-saving performance. And that's not all the problems. Natural ventilation is almost completely absent in the “pie”, wet cotton wool dries for a very long time. At the same time, direct contact of the waterlogged material with the rafters is maintained all this time. In conditions of high humidity and high temperature, destructive processes begin very quickly in wooden structures. Moreover, no one treats the rafters with antiseptics.

The vapor barrier layer is laid in rows from the bottom up, the overlap of the material is at least ten centimeters. To ensure complete tightness, the seams must be sealed with adhesive tape. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the rafters.

Step 5 Make a crate to fix the finishing plates.

For lathing, you can use slats 20 × 50 or cheap grades of boards of about the same thickness. The parameters of the crate depend on the linear characteristics of the upholstery material. Plasterboard, plywood or OSB sheets can be used. Natural lining looks great, but this is the most expensive option for roof sheathing.

Video - Roof insulation with mineral wool

Foam insulation

We insulate the attic with foam

The thickness of the foam sheets also needs to be selected taking into account the climatic zone of residence. Universal can be considered 10 ÷ 15 centimeters, to achieve this thickness, the foam will have to be laid in two layers.

There are two ways to fix foam boards:

the first, cheaper, - with ordinary thin carnations with large hats to the roof sheathing. This method is no different from the one described above in the case of mineral wool insulation;
the second way - construction foam. It is somewhat more expensive and takes longer, but better quality.

Choosing mounting foam

Important. Do not buy household foam, use only professional.

Household foam comes complete with a plastic tube through which the foam is delivered to the right place.

It seems that everything is fine, you can work, and at a cost it is somewhat cheaper than a professional one. But it's not. Firstly, if you did not have time to immediately use up the entire can of household foam at once, then after half an hour you can throw all the rest in the trash. It will freeze and it will be impossible to use it further.

Secondly, it is very inconvenient to use a flexible tube to fill narrow gaps. The tube bends at the slightest effort, it must be guided with the second hand, and even such a “technology” does not always work.

Professional foam has a significantly improved quality, and a special gun makes it possible to use one started bottle at any time until it is completely used up.

The cost of a pistol varies, but on average does not exceed the cost of three foam cylinders. Within a few days of performing work on the insulation of the attic of the bath, it will pay off and begin to bring direct profit.

Model	Price
	350 rub.
	810 rub.
	660 rub.
	1 520 rub.

The tube of the gun is metal, it allows you to foam the narrowest gaps without any problems.

It will take more than one day and more than one bottle of foam to insulate the attic, do not throw money into the trash can, immediately buy a professional gun and polyurethane foam.

Prices for mounting foam

polyurethane foam

Attic insulation technology with foam

So, the materials are purchased, you can start work on insulation. And in this case, we will take into account that the waterproofing under the roofing is already in place.

Now it is needed not so much to prevent the foam plastic from getting wet (he is not afraid of water), but to guarantee protection against moisture of the truss system. After insulation with polystyrene foam, natural ventilation is completely blocked, wet rafters will quickly begin to rot with all the unpleasant consequences.

In the example of performing insulation, we will use the method of working with mounting foam.

Step 1. Remove the distance between the rafters, transfer them to a foam sheet and cut out the insulation along the lines.

It is better to cut thin foam plastic with a sharp construction knife; to cut thick foam (more than five centimeters), use an ordinary hand saw.

During cutting, the measuring line should be left intact, which will allow to increase the dimensions by a few millimeters and thereby increase the strength of pressing the sheet to the rafters.

Video - Cutting foam with a hair dryer with a nozzle

Step 2 With foam from a gun, carefully apply a thin, solid line on the rafters where the bottom of the styrofoam sheet fits, let it dry for about five minutes. The fact is that the foam does not hold well on fresh foam, in addition, in places of pressing it ceases to increase in volume - there are risks of the formation of unclosed cracks.

Step 3 Carefully place the styrofoam in the desired location. It is highly desirable that the surface of the sheet does not touch the waterproofing layer. In these places, a dew point may appear, and condensed water will fall on the elements of the truss system. This is a very undesirable phenomenon.

Step 4 Continue in the same way to lay the first layer of foam.

In order for the work to move quickly, organize them correctly. For those few minutes that the foam dries up, you need to measure the next sheet and cut it out. Apply a line of foam under the second sheet and prepare the third sheet. Inserted the second - work in the same way with the next one. This algorithm of work makes it possible to significantly reduce the time of attic insulation.

All joints between individual sheets should be carefully foamed. At first, it is difficult to guess the amount of foam, but after a few sheets, experience will appear and the foam will lie down as much as necessary.

Step 5. The first layer is laid - start doing the preparatory work under the second layer of foam. With a sharp knife, cut off all the foam protruding beyond the plane of the insulation, the fit of the two layers should be as tight as possible.

Once again check the tightness of the joints, if problem areas are found, they must be corrected by foaming.

Step 6 Start laying down the second layer of Styrofoam.

Very important. The joints must be overlapped. In this way, an increased guarantee of tightness is achieved.

Step 7 The process of laying the second layer of foam is no different from the above. Once again, we remind you - do the work very carefully and carefully. Small gaps not only increase heat loss, it is not even a major problem. The trouble is that it is these cracks on the inside of the skin that will have a dew point, small areas of plywood, OSB or drywall will be constantly wet. And this will surely become noticeable over time on the finishing of the walls - stains will appear on the wallpaper or decorative plaster.

Step 8 Although the foam is not afraid of moisture, we strongly recommend that you make a vapor barrier. Without it, moist air can penetrate to the wooden structures of the truss system and condense on them. You already know what awaits the elements of the roof in this case.

Step 9 Nail the crate under the upholstery boards and start finishing.

Video - Roof insulation with foam plastic

Front walls

The insulation of these structures has features depending on the method of construction of the bath. If the gables are made of the same material as the facade walls (timber, foam blocks, bricks), then before insulating them, you need to make niches for foam plastic or mineral wool. For them, boards or slats should be used with a width not less than the thickness of the insulation material.

If the pediments are made of vertical supports, sheathed with clapboard on the outside, then no preliminary preparation is required. In most cases, a 50 × 150 mm board is used for the vertical supports of the truss system, and this width is quite enough for high-quality wall insulation.

floors

Most of the baths in all rooms have insulated flows, which means that the attic floors do not need such construction activities. If for some reason the ceilings of the bath do not have thermal insulation, you will have to do it. Although there are options here - the uninsulated ceiling of the rooms in the bath automatically makes the floors of the attic room warm. Decide for yourself what to do in your case. Take into account the specific purpose of the attic in the bath, the frequency and time of using these rooms.

If you decide to insulate the floor, you can use the same foam or mineral wool. The laying technology has one fundamental difference - the vapor barrier layer must be placed under the thermal insulation, and the waterproofing layer must be placed on top.

Conclusion

Never save on the thickness of the insulation layer. If it gets too hot, you can always open the windows to ventilate the rooms. And if it is too cold, you will have to spend additional significant money on heating to comfortable temperature values.

We did not consider options with "ecowool" and liquid polyurethane foam for several reasons.

Video - How to insulate the attic

Video - Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling

Even at the stage of designing and building a private house, the purpose of each room and its design are thought out. Sometimes, over time, you want to expand the existing squares without significant financial investments. This is easy to achieve by performing insulation from the inside. If the roof is already covered, the installation work is somewhat more complicated. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technologies used.

Preparing the attic space before starting insulation work

If the attic will be used as a living space, you should prepare for thermal insulation work. This room must meet certain requirements that are prescribed in the relevant regulatory documents. Here, unlike the attic, the roof should have a slope, and the ceiling should not be lower than 2.5 m.

At the preparation stage, you should decide on:

type of thermal insulation materials that will be used for attic insulation. The level of heat loss and the comfort of living in this room will directly depend on this;
communications that will be brought to the attic. To do this, you should decide and correctly select the appropriate engineering solutions;
how the load-bearing elements will be decorated.

Each of these points can have a serious impact on the order and quality of thermal insulation work from the inside. The choice of heat and water insulator will affect the performance of the room. With insufficient thickness, it will be cold at the top, with excess - there is a high probability of condensation.

What tools will be needed to complete the work

The choice of specific equipment and tools depends on the type of thermal insulation material. As a rule, for installation work from the inside, you should prepare:

scissors and a knife, with which other materials will be cut;
a construction stapler with ospreys of a suitable size, with which you can fix the panels;
tools for working with the material from which the house is built. Wood needs a chisel, a mallet, a planer, and a chisel;

In addition to heat-insulating material, to insulate the attic from the inside, you should have available:

steam and;
bars for the device of the crate, if its installation is provided for by the chosen method;
hardware. It is worth buying screws and nails of different sizes;
construction tape;
mounting foam.

The choice of insulation for the attic roof

Manufacturers offer a wide range of thermal insulation materials. Each of them has its own distinctive features, which must be taken into account when choosing for a mansard roof. We offer to get acquainted with each of them, so that it is easier to choose the best option.

Styrofoam

The budget option, which is most often resorted to when insulating the attic (and in vain). Easily processed and assembled by hand. Well suited for the attic, as it has a low specific gravity and low thermal conductivity. But at the same time, it has the biggest and most significant drawback: it is extremely combustible and rodents love it very much.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The performance characteristics of extruded polystyrene foam are comparable to the properties of foam. However, the process of forming a heat-insulating coating is somewhat different, which will avoid the formation of gaps. The presence of stepped joints ensures reliable fixation of the elements and protects the attic from the penetration of cold from the outside. We would like to note that this material is also combustible and requires the most serious assessment to choose it as a heater.

Mineral wool

Heat insulator used everywhere. This is a natural material, which contains a certain amount of synthetic fibers to improve performance. Differs in affordable cost. It is sold in rolls or plates, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

glass wool

Insulation with longer fibers than mineral wool. This contributes to an increase in elastic characteristics and soundproofing properties. In terms of hydrophobicity, it is somewhat inferior to the mineral analogue. Differs in low combustibility. The absence of toxic substances in the composition makes it possible to use glass wool for the internal thermal insulation of the attic.

stone wool

The most expensive type of cotton wool used when performing. Consists of basalt fibers. Can be supplied in slab form. It costs more than its counterpart - glass wool, but at the same time it allows you to form a better heat-insulating coating.

Ecowool

The basis of the material is paper - an environmentally friendly material. Before application, the composition is thoroughly crushed. After that, using special equipment, it is blown into the voids, thereby preventing the appearance of a draft.

polyurethane foam

Modern thermal insulation material, ideal for insulating the attic from the inside. The technology used makes it possible to form a dense coating that does not have cracks and gaps. By giving preference to this technology, you can not be afraid of drafts and cold for at least 30 years.

Penofol

One of the options for foamed polyethylene, widely used in the insulation of attics of modern buildings. The presence of a one- or two-sided coating provides high reflective characteristics and good soundproofing properties.

An overview of the advantages and disadvantages of certain types of insulation for the attic

Each of the listed heat insulators can be used to insulate the mansard roof of a private house and has its own advantages and disadvantages. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the advantages of each type so that you can compare them with each other and give preference to a specific insulation.

Styrofoam, differing in affordable cost, has:

low water absorption. Water that has fallen on the surface will not be absorbed, but will simply flow down;
light weight;
low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages include low vapor permeability. As a result, the attic can be hot and stuffy, and high humidity can cause mold. Shrinkage of a wooden structure during operation can lead to the appearance of gaps between the foam plates. Often they start up between sheets of insulation. Well, as mentioned above, in the event of a fire, it instantly ignites and emits poisonous gas.

To the benefits extruded polystyrene foam worth considering:

light weight, which reduces the requirements for load-bearing structures;
long service life if the installation was carried out according to all the rules;
high compressive strength;
the ability to perform installation work with your own hands. You just need to figure out how to properly insulate the attic roof with extruded polystyrene foam;
resistance to decay;
the possibility of applying a finish coating on the heat insulator layer.

Of the shortcomings, increased flammability should be noted. Impregnation with flame retardants minimizes this negative property.

To the main benefits mineral wool worth considering:

availability;
high heat and sound insulation properties;
ease of installation work from the inside. The insulation is easy to cut and fit. With it, you can perform the insulation of the broken line from the inside;
long service life;
biological durability. The material is unattractive to rodents;
small specific gravity.

However, such a heater accumulates moisture quite well. When planning to insulate the attic from the inside with mineral wool, you should take care of the availability of high-quality hydro and vapor barrier.

Key Benefits glass wool are the absence of toxic substances and low flammability. When properly installed, it is able to retain heat well inside the house.

Attention! When insulating the attic with glass wool, it is imperative to use personal protective equipment.

stone wool reliable in operation and safe for others. It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and almost zero flammability. Able to withstand significant external influences. The formed coating has good characteristics.

To the virtues ecowool worth considering:

environmental friendliness, so that it can be safely used to insulate the attic from the inside;
good thermal insulation characteristics;
formation of a dense layer minimizing heat loss;
the presence in the composition of borax, a natural antiseptic that protects wooden structures from decay and mold;
good soundproofing characteristics of a layer of small thickness;
preservation of characteristics for a long time. After ten years of operation, the thickness of the insulation remains unchanged.

Among the shortcomings, the complexity of application and high cost should be noted.

polyurethane foam has high performance. Shrinkage of a wooden house is unable to affect the characteristics of the formed heat-insulating layer. The coating has optimal hardness and is not afraid of moisture. During installation from the inside, it is possible to refuse the formation of a vapor barrier layer.

The disadvantages include the need to use a special sprayer. This can be a serious problem for those who planned to do the insulation from the inside with their own hands, since such equipment is quite expensive. In addition, it is necessary to have sufficient knowledge and have certain skills in order to independently apply a high-quality dense coating.

Penofol in demand when insulating attics from the inside, since such a heater:

Safe. It does not harm human health and the environment.
It has a low level of thermal conductivity.
Allows you to form a closed system of air bubbles with the necessary level of vapor permeability.

Attention! Attic insulation with penofol requires significant financial investments.

The nuances of attic insulation with different geometry of the roof of the house

Insulation of the mansard roof has a number of features dictated by the specifics of the room itself. The complex design of the attic space requires a competent approach. Otherwise, it will be difficult to avoid the appearance of either condensation.

How to insulate the roof of a house from the inside with your own hands, if it has a rather complex geometry? The answer to this question in each case is sought individually. The choice is made in favor of hard insulation, since soft materials slip at a large angle of inclination. Thermal insulation work from the inside in this case is best done using plates. The crate is mounted in such a way that the rafters are located at a distance that is 10-15 mm less than the width of the plates. This will avoid the appearance of cracks through which cold can penetrate into the room.

Attention! To create comfortable conditions, it is necessary to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, as well as other surfaces.

Considering that the rafter legs of a complex roof are cold bridges, after laying the slabs, a continuous layer of insulation is attached on top of the laid mats. Its thickness is much less than the main heat insulator. A vapor barrier is placed on top.

Do I need to arrange waterproofing under the insulation

The presence in the molded pie is a must. Thus, it is possible to prevent the formation of condensate or the infiltration of atmospheric precipitation into the room. As a result, the service life increases, and the reliability of the formed heat-insulating layer increases.

Most often, the choice is made in favor of waterproofing films: diffusion, superdiffusion breathable, anti-condensation.

Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands - the main nuances, video

If you decide to do the installation work on your own, it's time to find out how to properly insulate the roof from the inside, depending on the chosen thermal insulation material.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video of the process

If it is decided to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands, the work should be performed in the following sequence:

Waterproofing attachment.
Open the mineral wool. To do this, strips are cut, the width of which is 3–4 mm greater than the distance between the rafters.
Laying mineral wool between the rafters end-to-end, but without overlap, it is fastened with the help of nylon threads or knitting wire wound on nails hammered into the rafters.
Vapor barrier fastening.
Finishing.

The following video about warming the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands will allow you to understand the process in more detail:

Insulation of the attic with foam

Having made a choice in favor of foam, you can significantly reduce the cost of performing thermal insulation work. The main thing is to understand the technology of attic insulation with foam plastic. Installation work can be performed in the following sequence:

A photo	Description of works
	Treat the wooden elements of the crate with a special compound to improve their performance and increase their service life. The composition must be suitable for indoor work.
	We measure the dimensions of the rafters and the distance between them to determine the parameters of the foam.
	We lay foam sheets between the beams and fix them with screws.
	We foam the formed joints and cavities between the beams and foam sheets. Cut off excess foam after curing. If necessary, we lay the second layer.

Attic insulation with polyurethane foam

Before starting thermal insulation work, the strength characteristics of the truss system should be checked. Given that polyurethane foam weighs more than foam or mineral wool, load-bearing structures must be designed for such a load.

Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam from the inside is performed as follows:

A photo	Description of works
	Special equipment is being prepared, with the help of which the composition will be applied to the surface of the walls and ceiling of the attic.
	The composition is applied to the previously prepared base. A continuous coating of the same thickness is formed.
	The quality of the formed layer is controlled.

Overview of the main mistakes made when insulating the attic from the inside

It is not enough just to learn how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands. You should definitely get acquainted with the typical mistakes that many inexperienced builders make. This is especially true when performing work using heaters that easily absorb moisture. Experts recommend:

do not use a hygroscopic heat insulator to protect roofs with a slope of less than 13 degrees. In this case, there is a high risk of precipitation collecting on the roof surface with subsequent leaks, which can cause damage to the heat-insulating layer;
be sure to provide an air gap between the roof and the insulation layer for drying and ventilation of the heat-insulating layer;
stack all the layers of the "pie". The lack of vapor or waterproofing will negatively affect the final result;

When choosing an attic insulation, it is important to consider several factors that determine its safe and effective service:

Thermal conductivity. A key indicator that determines the choice of thermal insulation material. Shows how much heat the material can pass per unit of time. The unit of measurement is W/(m×°K).
The ability of a material to pass moisture or water vapor through it. For the attic, the most “breathable material” is needed.
Safety. Given that the attic is insulated from the inside, the moment of material safety comes to the fore. It should not emit an unpleasant odor or release substances into the air that adversely affect the human mucosa.
Ease of installation. When insulating the attic floor at home, it is necessary that the material itself be convenient and easy to install, not requiring special or expensive equipment.
Lifetime. Most thermal insulation materials are designed for a service life of up to 50 years. It suits us.
Fire safety. Again, given the design features of the attic, it is important that the material for insulation be as non-combustible as possible - it does not support combustion and emits a minimum of toxic substances when melted.
Density. Material with greater density has more weight. The weighting of the truss system in the attic does not lead to anything good. It is better to pay attention to a heater with a lower density. Although, almost all thermal insulation materials on the market are light and airy, so this factor is in last place when choosing.

Choosing how to insulate the attic from the inside and going to the hardware store, you will see an incredible picture. The choice is simply huge - there are a great many materials, firms, sizes, shapes. How to find the right one among them in order to insulate the attic with high quality, relatively inexpensively and for a long time? Let's figure it out together. Consider separately each type of material and weigh its positive and negative sides in relation to the insulation of the attic room.

We will not provide detailed technical characteristics of these materials. Our goal is to determine how suitable they are for attic insulation. So, we make the choice of insulation for the attic from the most popular.

Mineral wool

It can rightfully be called the "queen" among other materials. It is distributed in all regions of Russia and the CIS. Why has it become so widespread? It is easy to manufacture, transport and install. Non-combustible and has high thermal performance.

Mineral wool can be divided into several main types that are found on sale today:

slag;
stone (or basalt) wool;
glass wool (glass).

Although on average their characteristics are similar, there are still those that will help us choose among them the one that is more suitable for attic thermal insulation.

To make it easier to determine how to insulate the attic from the inside, we will follow the sequence of characteristics defined above that each material has.

Slag wool (slag wool)

It is made from blast-furnace production waste. Has an air structure. The fibers are bonded between a binder.

Thermal conductivity. It fluctuates between 0.046 - 0.048 W / (m × ° K). This indicator is accurate in the case of high-quality slag waterproofing.

Hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Due to its structure, slag wool has high vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Safety. The material itself is safe. Under normal conditions, it does not emit harmful substances. During installation, protective clothing and eye and respiratory protection are required. The fibers are short and can cause irritation.

Ease of installation. It is mounted as simply as possible due to its flexibility and uniform thickness.

Lifetime. Manufacturers claim 50 years. This figure is highly dependent on the quality of installation, waterproofing and the quality of the slag itself.

Fire safety. The maximum allowable temperature is 300°C. It is quite acceptable for a mansard roof, given the fact that the ignition temperature of wood is from 320 ° C. Does not support combustion.

Density. Low, airy structure. Good air permeability. Lightweight, will not create a load on the roof structure.

Peculiarities. It is mainly used for warming production workshops and rooms where there is good ventilation. The blast-furnace slag and harmful binders present a danger to human health. May react with metal in roof structure. Although for the attic this is usually irrelevant.

Conclusion. For attic insulation, slag wool is not the best choice because of its composition and impact on human health.

Stone wool (basalt)

It is made from basalt or similar rocks. Has an air structure. Available in rolls or mats.

Thermal conductivity. It is in the range from 0.076 to 0.12 W / (m × ° K).

Hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Indicators are akin to slag. Like any type of mineral wool, it has a high vapor conductivity. Needs protection from water, otherwise it loses its properties.

Safety. The safest of all considered types of mineral wool. Fibers up to 16 mm long and up to 12 microns thick. However, when working with it, it is advisable to wear a protective suit, respirator, goggles and gloves. The higher the density, the less it breaks up during operation and the dusting of the room with small fibers of cotton wool decreases.

Ease of installation. Installation is convenient, given the density. The denser, the easier it is to mount on vertical or sloping surfaces. Especially suitable for pitched mansard roofs.

Lifetime. Up to 50 years old. Much depends on proper installation and, most importantly, on hydro and vapor barrier.

Fire safety. The maximum allowable heating temperature is 600°C. Very well suited for the wooden rafter system of the attic. If you carry out high-quality installation in 2 layers with an overlap, you can completely protect the wooden elements of the roof from fire.

Density. It ranges from extremely low, for installation in piers, to the most dense for use in insulating the facades of buildings from the outside. Medium density is suitable for attic insulation.

Peculiarities. Relatively expensive type of insulation. The price is due to the high rates of safety for health. The denser, the more expensive. Has high rates of sound insulation.

Conclusion. Attic insulation with stone wool is a great solution. In all respects, it is ideal for the role of insulation for a residential attic floor from the inside. The only point is that the material is more expensive than the rest.

Glass wool (glass wool)

The most common of all types of cotton. Often it is she who is meant when they talk about mineral wool. It is made from glass industry waste, cullet and silicon. Cheaper than stone wool.

Thermal conductivity. Between 0.029 and 0.050 W/(m×°K). Such a low figure is obtained due to the structure. The thinnest fibers, from 4 microns thick.

Hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Hygroscopic, when moisture from the air gets inside. If just water from the roof gets in, it drains without penetrating into the material due to special hydrophobic additives. High rates of vapor permeability, which makes it a suitable insulation for the attic.

Safety. During installation, extreme care is required to prevent contact of brittle, glass fibers with the skin, respiratory tract and eyes. The best protection will be a special suit that covers the whole body, goggles, tight-fitting eyes (similar to swimming) and rubber gloves.

If glass wool gets on the skin, it should be washed off only with cold water. Hot water expands the pores of the skin and the fibers penetrate deeper, causing even more itching.

Ease of installation. The material is produced in rolls and mats. To insulate the attic, it is more convenient to install mats, because one person can do it. Rolls are more suitable for horizontal surfaces, for example, for insulating a technological attic above the ceiling of an attic room.

Lifetime. 50 years. It can sharply decrease with poor waterproofing. Especially if the wool is installed in vertical or inclined planes, where it can slide under its own weight.

Fire safety. Permissible heating temperature is 450°С. An acceptable indicator for use in mansard roof insulation.

Density. The density is similar to slag. Thicker mats are used for outdoor insulation.

Peculiarities. It is made of glass, so proper installation is the key to safe living in the attic. Properly glued vapor barrier joints will protect residents from small fibers that will inevitably separate from the bulk of the insulation. Mice love mineral wool, although in most cases poison for them is added to its composition.

Conclusion. Many professional builders recommend using mineral wool to insulate the attic. The combination of price, quality, ease of installation and thermal performance makes mineral wool the #1 choice for many homeowners with an attic floor.

Other materials

The rest include ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam and extruded foam. These materials in and of themselves are not bad. But do-it-yourself attic insulation is not suitable. Why?

Ecowool - requires special equipment;

Sprayed polyurethane foam - requires special equipment, although it can be used;

Extruded polystyrene - even less suitable for internal insulation of the attic floor than polystyrene. The main reason is the low rate of vapor permeability.

Summing up

In short, stone or glass wool is more suitable for attic insulation. It is vapor permeable, easy to install and has high performance. The thickness of the insulation for the attic must be at least 200mm. In some cold regions of Russia, this figure is brought up to 350 mm, i.e. 7 layers of insulation.

Now, understanding the better to insulate the attic from the inside, what materials to use, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

Attic - a favorite home of poets, artists, creative and creative people. Thanks to new building materials, the attic floor can be used as a room under the roof as a living or utility room (zone) not only in summer, but also in winter (for winter living). Abroad, well-designed and decorated attics do belong to the category of bohemian housing.

In modern housing construction, an attic is not just an equipped warm attic, it is an effective way to increase the functional space of a residential building. It is noteworthy that, in accordance with urban planning standards, the attic is taken into account when determining the number of storeys of a building.

Benefits of an insulated attic:

saving on the cost of materials in the construction of a residential building;
arrangement of a functional additional area;
original appearance of a private house with an attic;
reduction of heat loss through the under-roof space.

Among the disadvantages: sloping ceilings, the need for additional insulation, difficulties with the rational organization of living space.

Most of the minuses of the attic are completely removable and with the right approach become advantages.

Preparing to insulate the attic

A specific feature of the attic is the presence of a sloping ceiling. Moreover, according to the standards of SNiP 2.08.01-89 "Residential buildings", the height of the attic floor cannot be lower than 2.5 m. It is allowed to reduce the height in an area not exceeding 50% of the total area of \u200b\u200bthe premises.

Other features of the attic include:

the dependence of heat loss on the material from which the house is built: wood, cellular concrete, brick, or a combination thereof;
dependence of attic engineering systems on those existing in the house. This leaves imprints on technical solutions for the device of communications;
variety of architectural forms: broken, one, gable roof;
variety of design solutions. The material for the manufacture of load-bearing elements of the attic can be wood, metal, reinforced concrete;
location specifics. The attic can be located within the area of the building or go beyond its boundaries, supported by columns or a cantilevered extension of the interfloor ceiling.

Thus, when deciding how to insulate the attic for winter living, one must proceed from the design features.

Note that it is correct to carry out work on the insulation of a residential building or apartment outside the premises, because. this approach ensures that the freezing point is shifted towards the insulation mounted on the outside of the wall.

However, attic insulation from the inside is a ubiquitous option, because. all surfaces that are subject to insulation are inside the attic (room) floor - ceiling, floor and walls. The exception is the pediment, which can be insulated as part of the attic thermal insulation or at the same time as the insulation of the whole house.

Factors affecting the thermal insulation of the attic

Professionals identify two key factors that have a significant impact on the level of heat loss and the performance of the attic after the insulation work has been completed.

First, it is a heat-insulating material. Taking into account the fact that the attic floor is the coldest room in the house, and it is supposed to do the attic insulation with your own hands, you need to carefully consider the choice of insulation.

Secondly, it is a waterproofing film. It is she who is designed to protect the insulation from moisture entering the attic from the outside (outside), through the roofing material, and from the inside, through the floor.

What insulation for the attic is better to choose?

To insulate the attic of a house, you can use any heat-insulating material that has proven itself in practice.

Among the most popular materials: cotton wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and their varieties. It should be remembered that the attic insulation is selected taking into account the factors inherent in a particular house and taking into account the skill level of the one who will install the thermal insulation material.

The characteristics that determine the suitability of the insulation for use in a particular case are given in the table.

insulation	Rigidity (compressive strength)	Thermal conductivity	Hygroscopicity	Shrinkage	The weight	Installation on a sloping roof	Price
Mineral wool (basalt insulation)	-	-	+	+	-	+	100-140 rub/sq.m.
Glass wool (synthetic insulation)	-	-	+	+	-	+	70-80 rub/sq.m.
Penofol (foil insulation)	-	-	-	-	-	+	40-50 rub/sq.m.
Ecowool (cellulose insulation)	-	-	+	-	-	+	23-35 rub/kg
Polyurethane foam (PPU foam)	+	-	-	-	-	+	170-212 rub/kg
Styrofoam	+	-	-	-	-	-	2560-3200 rub/m3
Expanded polystyrene (foam)	+	-	-	-	-	-	3500-5000 rub/m3

The material was prepared for the site www.site

How to insulate the attic from the inside

Features of the use of heaters of different types and types.

Soft thermal insulation materials:

attic insulation with mineral wool requires a competent choice and application of films. Thus, it is possible to eliminate the main disadvantage of cotton wool - its hygroscopicity. The second, less significant minus - slight rigidity, is eliminated by reliable fixation of cotton wool, as well as the use of its denser varieties. Thus, sagging of cotton wool is excluded. Nevertheless, due to the environmental friendliness of the components, attic insulation with mineral wool from the inside continues to hold a leading position;

attic insulation with glass wool is rarely performed due to the fact that glass wool is an unsafe material from the point of view of environmental friendliness. Plus, it creates difficulties in installation;

insulation of the attic with penofol. It is used if it is necessary to insulate without significant losses in the height of the room. In order for penofol to perform its functions, the material must be oriented with a foil layer inside the room.

Rigid thermal insulation materials:

insulation of the attic with foam. An excellent and easy-to-install option, which has such a drawback as the incomplete fit of the sheets to the crate. In view of this, a space unfilled with a heater appears and the efficiency of insulation decreases. In addition, polystyrene is combustible and releases toxic substances when burned. And in conclusion, rigid heaters do not pass steam well. The popularity of foam is due to its low price;

insulation of the attic with expanded polystyrene (foam) is similar to insulation with foam. The difference lies in the presence of a tongue-and-groove fastening system, which, in fairness, does not play an important role in attic insulation. And also in the greater density of the material itself.

Note that breathable soft insulation will be a good option, if necessary, insulate a wooden attic.

Sprayed thermal insulation materials:

attic insulation with ecowool. The material is 80% cellulose and 20% wood. It contains a natural antiseptic. This is a completely eco-friendly material;
attic insulation with polyurethane foam (PPU).

The widespread distribution of sprayed heaters is hindered by their high price, as well as the need to attract specialists and use special equipment. At the same time, as evidenced by consumer reviews, the price is justified by a high level of thermal insulation. After all, the sprayed material fills the smallest gaps and eliminates sources of heat loss.

The thickness of the attic insulation depends on: the type of roofing material, the height of the room, the presence of a heating system, the location of the insulation and its type.

Recommendation. If a chimney passes through the mansard roof, basalt wool should be used. It begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 ° C, and does not smolder like ecowool and does not melt like rigid insulation (polystyrene, foam plastic).

Waterproofing and vapor barrier under insulation

Since wool is the leader among materials for attic insulation, and at the same time it is hygroscopic, it becomes necessary to take care of the wool itself, protecting it with a film of hydro and vapor barrier. Otherwise, the wool will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties.

For insulation insulation are used:

isospan (20-25 rubles / sq.m.). The vapor barrier film (membrane) has a double layer and surface roughness, due to which condensate is retained;

polyethylene film (3 rubles / sq.m.). The most affordable waterproofing material in terms of price. But this film does not have the ability to pass steam;

waterproofing membrane (30-45 rubles / sq.m.). Many manufacturers offer membranes for roofing, which are distinguished by the ability to simultaneously retain moisture and pass steam.

penofol (40-50 rubles / sq.m.). Foil insulation.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation technology from the inside

Integrated thermal insulation provides for the following types of work:

insulation of the attic roof;
insulation of the attic ceiling;
insulation of the attic floor;
insulation of attic walls.

Each of the stages has its own characteristics, which we will dwell on in detail. Insulation of the attic from the inside is performed if the roof is already covered.

Attic roof insulation

It does not matter what roofing material the truss system is covered with. The main thing is that it effectively copes with the task of preventing water from entering the attic space. From the point of view of insulation, the type of roofing material does not matter - their thermal insulation properties are close to zero. This means that the most significant heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, from the roof of the attic floor, work begins on the insulation of the room.

How to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside - step by step instructions

installation of a waterproofing film or membrane. This is a film that prevents water from entering the insulation, but does not prevent moisture from escaping from it. Thanks to what the heater does not get wet. The film is mounted from the ridge to the eaves in such a way that water, if it gets through the roofing material or condenses on it, flows down the film to the outside. Before installing the film, it is important to treat the wooden parts of the truss system with a deep penetration primer;

air gap. It is obtained by arranging the crate. Allows the material to "breathe";

heater installation. Mineral wool (or hard insulation) is placed between the rafters of the mansard roof. If the pitch of the rafters is more than 600 mm. it is necessary to make an additional crate even before the stage of laying the waterproofing film.
Cotton wool is placed between adjacent bars or a metal profile end-to-end, so that there are no gaps. If any appear, you need to cut a piece of cotton wool and close the gap.

Masters recommend using mineral wool mats, and not roll material, because. they are more dense. It is also recommended to lay the cotton wool in two layers with an offset. In order for the cotton wool to sit tightly in the intended place, it can be strengthened with a rope or nails;

Advice. If the attic ceiling is insulated with a slope length of more than three meters, it is necessary to make wooden jumpers between the vertical bars of the crate. Because cotton wool can "slide".

installation of a vapor barrier film. The task of this film is not to let steam into the insulation. The optimal level of humidity is achieved by airing the room;
Note. To isolate the rafters, some craftsmen install a thin insulation between the vapor barrier film and the finishing material.

When laying the layers in a given order, it is important to ensure a reliable connection of the films and insulation to the ridge, valley, walls, window openings, etc.

finishing material. Most often, sheets of drywall, MDF or wood (board, lining) are used to finish the attic. The cladding material is attached to the truss system or profile frame.

The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use the fertile soil layer to the maximum convinces them to make decisions about expanding usable areas in a vertical rather than horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic over a bathhouse than to attach an additional rest room to it or build a separate house. True, this option will be acceptable only if there is more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bath is designed so that you can safely walk along its upper plane. In the presence of the above prerequisites, the insulation of the attic will turn it into an excellent living compartment.

Let's start with the fact that the configuration of the roof is far from the shape of a classic cube. Insulation will have to be mounted on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering the insulation of the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible roll materials.
Recall that the vast majority of the area of the upper fence is a roof structure with a truss system. Its coating is made of extremely light materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. The wooden elements of the lathing of the truss structure are laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

We take into account that in the attic floor there is not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. Leaving them without insulation or poorly insulating them means reducing all efforts to zero in general.
Let's not forget that the roofing material, which does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through, at the same time prevents the evaporation of fumes that are natural for a bath and not only for it.
We will ensure the safety of the use of residential premises by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for housing arrangement.

Summing up the above criteria, we will draw up a kind of formula from the requirements that the thermal insulation system under construction must meet. According to the tasks set before the insulation, we will select the material and find out all the technological nuances. In order for thermal insulation to work effectively, it is necessary that:

the insulation layer completely covered the internal surfaces without “gaps” in a kind of carpet, so that there were no weak points in the heat-insulating system in the form of an unprotected ridge and gables not covered by an insulator;
the insulating material, resisting the attacks of the cold atmospheric front from the outside and the warm wet front from the inside, was protected from the condensate formed as a result of their confrontation;
moisture did not accumulate on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not let through by the waterproofing roofing, so that excess moisture was removed through the ventilation ducts;
light roofing insulation was equipped with wind protection, which prevents heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
the material is suitable for technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question "how to properly insulate the attic." If the thermal insulation system meets all conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work efficiently.

Choosing the right insulation

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited to create a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using a shape-holding material is easier, faster and more convenient to do-it-yourself attic insulation with a minimum number of additional fixing devices. For their proper installation, longitudinal bars are nailed to the rafters with dimensions that allow for a ventilation gap. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements of the truss system, the inner plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the inner plane of the rafters.

Note. If the power of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafter, each of the elements of the rafter system will have to be nailed or installed on the screws with an additional beam. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.

The indicators of the heat engineering qualities of the material determine the climatic features of the region. The collection of building codes under the number 23-02-2003 will help to find them out. According to the indicator specified in the SNiP, it is necessary to select the material.

Styrofoam is a budget material and a convenient way to insulate. Lightweight slabs will be easy to install, the thermal insulation system will slightly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and attractiveness as a delicacy for mice make you think about whether it is worth it to insulate the attic with foam.
Minvata is also a convenient and democratic option. Cut to size a couple of cm more than the gap between the rafters, the plates are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly compressed and positioned in the required place. Having straightened out, elastic mineral wool will firmly “sit” in its nest. Glass wool can be used as an almost equivalent alternative.

Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the truss system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter-batten between the insulation boards and the roofing. It is not suitable for insulating the roofing system from the inside, but can be used to insulate gables.
Polyurethane foam - easily applied to the surface of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation that supplies foamed insulation under pressure is subject to planes with any slope. Attic insulation with polyurethane foam will create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, a vapor barrier layer will not be needed to protect the interior from the effects of condensate.
Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. It is similar in properties to wood, it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulation layer and the wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag during many years of use. To insulate with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a hemmed ceiling and install a crate for attaching a vapor barrier material to it.
Foil materials that work not only as a heater, but also as a mirror reflector of the heat that seeks to go outside. In order for the foil heat insulator to work perfectly, it is necessary to deploy it during installation with an aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient to have something to focus on, but mineral wool is recognized as the most popular material for insulation from the inside. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not available to everyone due to the lack of an apparatus, which, however, can be rented from a construction organization for a while. It remains only to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get an excellent result.

What should be the correct constructive pie?

An exaggerated thermal insulation system is the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the equipped space:

Plasterboard cladding.
Vapor control layer, preferably a variant of the membrane type. It is a continuous shell created from strips of rolled material laid with a 10-centimeter overlap. Cloths are fastened along horizontal and vertical joints with a special adhesive tape.
A crate that performs three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil material.
Insulation, laid in one or more layers, depending on the thermal effect created. When insulating the attic from the side of the room, it is mounted between the rafters.
A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.

Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate the attic are strongly advised to leave a ventilation gap between the heat-insulating material and waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a gross mistake.

Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To remove moisture, holes are provided in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the slopes and in the region of the valley. The width of the ventilation gap is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated board or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm, if with flat material without a profile relief, 50 mm should be left.
Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to preserve heat in the case of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. It is laid above the rafter legs, fastened with rails, on top of which the roofing is mounted.

By doing the attic insulation with your own hands, observing all the subtleties, the owner of a bathhouse with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space that eliminates the need to build a house in a summer cottage. To equip a mansard roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits and seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefit and economic effect is obvious.