Insulation of the attic from the inside: possible problems and solutions. How to insulate the attic from the inside if the roof is already covered? Insulation of the attic of the house from the inside

Each room of a private house needs to be insulated, especially if it is under a roof. If you neglect this or violate the insulation technology, then in the cold season the wind will blow into all the cracks, as a result of which condensation will accumulate on the rafters and the ceiling, which will definitely lead to rotting of the wooden parts of the roof. That is why you need to foresee all the nuances in advance and properly insulate the attic space.

How to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside

The range of thermal insulation materials is so large that it is quite difficult to immediately decide on the choice of insulation suitable for the attic.

  1. Fiberglass material is the cheapest, but still has many advantages. For example, it does not burn, is non-toxic, adheres well to other materials and retains heat. The operational properties are retained only under the condition of full compliance with the installation technology. But fiberglass also has disadvantages. This material does not emit harmful substances, but fine dust from fragments of fiberglass can appear in the room. As a result of contact with such dust, skin problems may arise, it will begin to itch, which may cause scratches that will not heal for a long time. Therefore, it is very important to use a respirator while working with the material and carefully observe safety precautions. Also, fiberglass is difficult to lay on walls that are inclined, which means that when insulating the attic, difficulties can arise.

    Fiberglass insulation can cause permanent discomfort

  2. Mineral wool is a natural insulation with the addition of synthetic fibers that increase its performance. Its main advantages are lightness, environmental safety, soundproofing properties. Therefore, such material is almost ideal for insulating the attic. It can be produced both in the form of slabs and in rolls. For insulation of the attic, it is more convenient to use the first option.

    Mineral wool is considered a good insulation material due to its fire resistance.

  3. Polyfoam is a material that perfectly combines good thermal insulation properties with a low price and ease of installation. This material will slightly weigh down the attic structure and practically does not require special skills for installation. However, the foam is not able to pass steam. There is also another significant drawback - mice love it.

    Styrofoam may appeal to mice

  4. Polyurethane foam. Unique insulation with a liquid structure. For application, a special spray device is used. After that, the polyurethane foam hardens and forms a monolithic coating without seams, which means that the presence of cold bridges is excluded.

    Polyurethane foam initially has a liquid structure

  5. Foil materials perform several functions at once: insulation and mirror reflection, which does not allow heat to go outside. This is possible only if the material is laid with an aluminum layer inside the attic. It is also imperative to leave a 5 cm gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

    Foil insulation performs several functions at once

Video: foam or mineral wool - what to choose

Basic rules for insulating the attic from the inside

Warming the attic from the inside implies the arrangement of a constructive pie. It has a certain scheme, which is not recommended to deviate from:

  1. Plasterboard cladding.
  2. Vapor barrier. The use of a membrane is recommended. The vapor barrier layer is a coating created from a roll of material with an overlap of 10 cm. The canvases must be fastened along vertical and horizontal joints using a special adhesive tape.

    Vapor barrier prevents condensation

  3. Sheathing. It performs three functions at once: it holds the heat-insulating material, is the basis for the vapor barrier layer, and forms a ventilation space (which is not always needed, this is mainly needed when using foil insulation).
  4. Heat insulating layer. Can be stacked in several layers if necessary. When insulating the attic from the inside, the insulation is placed in the space between the rafters.

    Most often, the insulation fits into the space between the rafters.

  5. Waterproofing layer. It is necessary to protect the insulation from getting wet. If this rule is neglected, the thermal insulation layer will lose its performance properties. It is recommended to leave a ventilation gap between the insulation and the waterproofing so that condensation does not form inside the cake.
  6. A counter grill is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. Additionally, you need to make holes in the area of ​​the base of the slopes and valleys. The width of the ventilation gap depends entirely on the roofing material used. When covered with slate or other similar material, this parameter is 25 mm, when installing flat material - 50 mm.
  7. Wind isolation. This layer has a windproof function, it retains heat in case of excessive ventilation in the ventilation gap. Wind insulation is laid over the rafters, fixed with slats. After laying the material, they carry out finishing work on the arrangement of the roof.

    When insulating the attic, it is important to observe a certain sequence of layers.

Warming methods

Insulation of the attic from the inside can be done in several ways:

  1. Installation of insulation between the rafters. This method is considered the simplest, therefore, when insulating with your own hands, it can be safely applied. There are certain rules that must be followed in this case. First of all, this concerns the presence of a ventilation gap, which must necessarily be between the hydro and thermal insulation layers. This will prevent condensation from building up. It is also recommended to carefully monitor the thickness of the insulation. It must fully match the thickness of the rafters. That is why mineral wool is most often chosen when choosing this method of insulation.

    The dimensions of the insulation board must be larger than the dimensions of the space between the rafters.

  2. Complex insulation. In this case, several types of heat-insulating material are used at once, which have hydraulic properties. However, there is a risk of condensation accumulation as there is no ventilation gap and the ceiling height is reduced.
  3. Installation of insulation over the rafters. This method allows you to save usable space. The rafters themselves can play the role of interior decor. When insulating, it is very important to equip a hydro and vapor barrier layer.

    Rafters can be part of the interior decor

Do-it-yourself attic insulation from the inside in stages

The peculiarity of the attic is that this attic floor is almost entirely formed by the roof surface. It is an inclined part of the rafter system, which needs insulation. Additionally, you can insulate the floor of the attic.

Materials and tools

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic from the inside, so a list of tools and materials will be given accordingly. For insulation you need:


You will also need the following materials:

  • insulation itself - mineral wool, which is recommended to be cut into suitable pieces in advance;
  • wooden counter rails.

Roof insulation

The slopes of the attic are sloped, which means that to insulate them, you need to use a material that does not deform over time. It is also recommended to take not a solid sheet of insulation, but its pieces. This will allow the material to fit tightly between the rafters, and it will not sag under its own weight. The whole process of roof insulation is as follows:

  1. Cut the rock wool into pieces that are slightly larger than the space between the rafters.

    You can lay material between the rafters or under them

  2. Fill the gaps with heat-insulating material as well. To do this, cut a strip 2–2.5 cm larger than the gap from the roll of mineral wool under the ruler. Drive the resulting piece of material with force into the slot.
  3. In the place where the roof changes its plane, it is very important to correctly join the pieces of insulation. First of all, this concerns the ridge and the junction of the roof with the wall.
  4. The insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier membrane that overlaps and is fastened with brackets.

    Overlapping vapor barrier membrane

It is strictly forbidden to use polyurethane foam to seal the gaps between the insulation plates. Therefore, it is recommended to pre-cut the material, taking into account the margin, so that the insulation lies end-to-end to each other.

Video: how to insulate the attic roof from the inside

Insulation of floors

During the construction of a private house equipped with an attic, one of three types of overlap is used. That is why there are three ways to insulate them:


On a horizontal surface, you can use roll material, on a vertical surface - take pieces of material of the appropriate size.

Warming of gables

The method of insulation depends on the structure of the building:


Insulation of partitions

To insulate the attic partitions of a private house, it is better to choose mineral wool slabs. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to weight the structure, and it is also recommended to ensure its fire resistance. To insulate partitions, you need:


Video: foam insulation

Arrangement of living space on the site of an attic space has long ceased to be a rare phenomenon. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out repairs so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Consider how to insulate the attic, if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

The attic is not just a habitable attic. There are some rules that distinguish these two rooms from each other. First of all, the roof of the attic must necessarily have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the norm must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on an attractive appearance, many decide on the arrangement of the attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to get acquainted with before starting work:

  • the materials used for the construction of the attic directly determine the further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
  • Correctly selected engineering solutions, which make it possible to provide all the necessary communications on the upper floor, have no less influence;
  • the shape of the roof plays an essential role. It can be pitched, gable or broken;
  • in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to show imagination;
  • the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also go beyond it, relying on the columns.

Each of these aspects has its own impact on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to two main materials - heat and waterproofing. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest area of ​​the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often becomes the cause of condensation, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for insulating an attic with your own hands

For internal insulation of the attic, there are many suitable options. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the particular roof with which to work. Consider what options exist today and what features are typical for them.

Attic insulation with foam: the pros and cons of the material

Polyfoam is one of the most famous insulation materials, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than that of many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

  • the foam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with a specially designed impregnation, then the water will simply flow down the surface;
  • low weight is another advantage, which greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
  • the thermal conductivity of the foam is very low, so that it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
  • Styrofoam is easy to cut and fasten. This allows you to work with him without problems, even if you do not have any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with the insulation of the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that foam is almost a win-win option when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But the insulation of walls with foam from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

  • the vapor permeability of the foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. It also leads to an increase in humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on the wooden elements of the roof;
  • despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
  • over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the thermal insulation material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages are more than advantages and that the insulation of the attic with foam is not justified. But it must be admitted that this is one of the most budgetary options, which gives a minimum of trouble, and, subject to the installation technology, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Insulation of the attic with expanded polystyrene: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to polystyrene foam. Their technical characteristics are almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If the polystyrene needs to be laid between the rafters, then the polystyrene foam is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Useful advice! Some manufacturers offer customers slabs with stepped joints, which makes the joints even stronger and more reliable. Such fixation of the elements to each other is ideal for insulating the attic roof.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with expanded polystyrene, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the operational life of this material is quite long, provided that the entire technology of attic insulation with penoplex is observed.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to decay or decomposition, which is also important when working on the roof. Any topcoat can be applied over it to give it an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

Working with expanded polystyrene on your own is simple: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases, even a construction stapler is used. So there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements for installation.

But behind all these positive characteristics, one must not forget about the only, but rather serious, drawback of insulation with expanded polystyrene from the inside of the walls and roof - the material has an increased level of flammability. For the owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful supply of all communications, in particular, electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to minimize this drawback, but today we can say with confidence that this issue remains open, and every owner who has made a choice in favor of wall insulation from the inside with Penoplex is obliged to take care of his safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for the insulation of the balcony. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity on the balcony.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is widely used and widely known for its characteristics. It got its name from its fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity goes well with the ability not to absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Minvata belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if the upper part of the roof is covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating under the influence of sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike foam, it is not at all of interest to rodents and various insects.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with mineral wool should be done taking into account the fact that it is a rather elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, subject to high-quality fixation.

Useful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of about 2 cm.This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there are no additional fasteners.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material

In terms of its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. The indicators of strength and soundproofing capabilities are also somewhat higher. But upon contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulating living quarters does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by a low flammability index.

In the process of working with the material, compliance with safety rules is required to avoid the ingress of glass wool fibers into the air. Its small particles can irritate mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and goggles is a prerequisite.

Useful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can irritate the skin, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside with your own hands using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among these materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and, in terms of the degree of reliability, significantly exceeds all other options. Here are some of its main benefits:

  • the thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
  • stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
  • the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
  • the level of vapor permeability is very high;

  • the material practically does not burn;
  • no mechanical loads are capable of deforming stone wool or affecting its characteristics;
  • the material has a long service life;
  • stone wool can be purchased in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into pieces of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users argue that the price of the material is quite justified, and provided that the installation technology is followed, it will very quickly pay off the provoked costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Insulation of the attic roof.

In addition, it is quite possible to carry out all the work on the insulation of the attic roof from the inside with your own hands. A video instruction can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and the recommendations of specialists will help to avoid common mistakes.

Insulation of the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold

Ecowool is a pre-crushed material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material - paper, the properties of which are very similar to those characteristic of wood. With its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of the ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which makes it possible to provide the wooden elements of the roof with effective protection against the formation of mold and mildew.

Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat, but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Attic insulation with polyurethane foam: technology fundamentals and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern among all the listed ways to insulate the attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that can become a source of cold air. In addition, the operational period of this material is one of the longest, and is up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if the wooden roof of the house begins to deform over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as a roof insulation from the inside. First of all, this concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is a complex application technology, which provides for a certain experience in this area and does not allow beginners to independently cope with the task at hand.

Useful advice! The ideal option is to invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will make high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among the methods of modern insulation of walls and houses. Along with high levels of sound insulation, it is worth noting the fact that penofol has a high-quality aluminum coating, which can be applied on one or two sides.

Here are some more arguments in favor of using penofol for insulating the attic:

  • the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
  • its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
  • the closed system of air bubbles, characteristic of this material, serves as an excellent barrier to vapor penetration.

This method also does not apply to cheap and requires significant financial investments for the implementation. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money on high-quality material once and thereby provide comfortable living conditions for many years to come.

A combination of materials is not at all uncommon. Materials that match their characteristics can be used together for insulation. For example, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are perfectly combined with each other. The first is laid between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will allow you to achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option that will satisfy the idea of ​​the correspondence between the price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a thoughtless choice in favor of the cheapest option for insulating the attic. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but it is necessary to choose taking into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on heat-insulating material can lead to the fact that after a while of operation, it will be necessary to carry out repair work or even completely replace the entire material.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation from the inside: video and stages of work

Each of the materials has its own characteristics of fastening and should be used exclusively in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory stages that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

First, a layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the destructive effects of moisture. The film is laid with an overlap in such a way that one layer is 10-15 cm on top of the other. The material is fixed with a construction stapler, and the joints are additionally glued with tape.

Then, if necessary, a crate is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. You need to attach them to the rafters, placing them parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element separately using a building level. This will prevent the occurrence of any roof defects in the future.

A heat insulator is laid on the rafters or crate and fixed in a suitable way for it. For example, if we are talking about using some type of cotton wool sold in rolls, then the material is cut into pieces of the desired size in order to fit them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be such as to match the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this "cake" is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as a polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As in the case of waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case, it is better to mount using thin wooden slats, placing them in increments of 40-50 cm. All joints must be glued with tape.

Useful advice! If you need to lay several layers of heat-insulating material, you need to put a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, it remains only to take care of a suitable topcoat, which can be attached to the crate or, if it is absent, directly to the bars. It is worth taking into account the weight of the decorative panels used, since the installation of the heaviest of them may require preliminary installation of a frame made of a metal profile.

The main mistakes made in the process of warming the attic

The end result of the work, which is carried out with your own hands, directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. It is especially worth considering the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are capable of absorbing moisture later dry up, which often becomes the cause of cold in the room.

  • if the angle of inclination of the roof does not exceed 13 °, it will delay precipitation on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can negatively affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
  • installation of thermal insulation material on walls and roof is not all the necessary work. It is also necessary to take care of window insulation (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists in order to surely avoid a leak. Especially if you want to install tilted windows;

  • in order to provide the thermal insulation material with ventilation and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of about 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
  • it is categorically impossible to skip at least one of the necessary layers of steam or waterproofing materials;
  • if the insulation material is thicker than the rafters, then their height can be increased by independently filling additional slats.

These simple recommendations can help in the process of work, significantly improving the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Insulating the attic pediment from the inside is far from the most difficult task that a home owner may face. Often, on the top floor, the owners want to arrange a balcony, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As for the walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on the balcony, although it is worth noting that the technology of insulating loggias, which has not been mentioned before, is often used here. To understand in detail the features of this process, the step-by-step instructions "Do-it-yourself balcony insulation from the inside" will help you figure it out.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands: video instruction

As an illustrative example, it is recommended to watch a training video, where the technology of wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool is presented in detail. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with all the nuances in detail and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.

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The problem of energy saving is always relevant for homeowners, so they try by all available means to reduce heat loss, which, as you know, occurs as a result of poor thermal insulation of the roof, walls and basement. Homes built a long time ago usually have an attic, which is used as a storage place for old and unnecessary things. In recently erected buildings, the owners now prefer to equip an attic roof (see photo), the premises of which can be used not only for household needs, but also as an additional living room. It is advisable to figure out how to insulate the attic roof from the inside without making popular mistakes.

If you can do the insulation of the attic roof with your own hands from the inside of the house, then the work outside the building should be entrusted to specialists.

The choice of insulation

The solution to the question of how and what is the best way to insulate the attic from the inside and outside depends primarily on the structure of the roof of the building and on the characteristics of the weather conditions of the area in which it is located. You can familiarize yourself with the basic requirements and norms regarding thermal protection for different climatic zones in SNiP 23-02-2003.

Today, the domestic construction market offers a huge selection of materials of various characteristics and cost for insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofs, walls and basements. It is difficult to make a choice for a person who has never done such work before, but you can, if you first study the information, do it yourself or consult with professionals or friends who are competent in this matter.

Styrofoam. Many homeowners are attracted by such insulation as polystyrene due to its low cost (read: ""). This is where the advice of professionals comes in handy, who claim that, despite its many advantages, this material has low vapor permeability and the room will be constantly humid. Over time, when the wood of the rafters dries out, gaps appear between them and the foam, through which cold penetrates into the room under the roof. Rodents also like to settle in this insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foam. Insulation is no less popular than polystyrene and is very similar in its characteristics to it. Only the technology differs, according to which it is performed from the inside with Penoplex. Expanded polystyrene plates are placed on the rafters from above so that gaps do not appear. The material in the form of slabs is produced with stepped joints or according to the type of “spike-in-groove” construction. As for the price of insulation, it depends on its thickness, and the total cost of work - on the size of the room.


Glass wool.

The technology according to which the attic roof is insulated with your own hands using glass wool is in many ways similar to working with mineral wool, but the material itself is different in structure:

  • glass wool has longer fibers than mineral wool, therefore it is more durable, resilient and has better sound insulation characteristics;
  • the hydrophobicity of glass wool is less than that of mineral wool;
  • glass wool can be used at lower temperatures.

Combined insulation. When we insulate the attic with our own hands, you can use several thermal insulation materials, based on their advantages. For example, to fill the gaps between the rafters, it is advisable to use mineral wool, and lay polystyrene foam on top of the roof on the rafter structure.


This method of insulation is considered one of the most effective for a number of reasons:

  • since ecowool is 80% paper, its properties are similar to natural wood, which in turn is an environmentally friendly material;
  • in terms of thermal insulation parameters, it is similar to glass wool;
  • the use of ecowool allows you to fill all structural elements with high quality, which leads to a significant reduction in heat loss;
  • the insulation contains a natural antiseptic - borax, which prevents the formation of mold and mildew on wooden parts;
  • ecowool provides high-quality sound insulation;
  • during operation does not lose its original volume.

Polyurethane foam. Refers to sprayed insulation. To insulate the attic with polyurethane foam, special equipment (portable installations) is required. Weighing 50 kilograms, one device covers approximately 100 "squares" of the area. Additional is not needed. The coating fills the existing voids and cracks to the maximum, while the service life of the material is more than 25 years. After the insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam is completed, the composition hardens within one minute. The reason why polyurethane foam is rarely used for thermal insulation is its high cost.


Penofol. Insulation refers to modern materials for insulation and vapor barrier, the material has a reflective effect and soundproofing properties. Foamed polyethylene is covered with high quality aluminum on one or both sides.

Insulation of the attic from the inside with penofol is preferable for a number of reasons:

  • ecological cleanliness;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • closed air bubble system of polyethylene foam prevents steam penetration.

Insulation of the attic walls

Now the attic is initially planned during the development of a house project, so its shape depends on the construction of the roof, and the roof elements become the walls. Most often, a gable roof is created in individual buildings, since it allows you to make the most of the attic area. Often, the inner walls for the room on the roof are not made at all. When the gable roof has a slope of 45-60 degrees, then the inner walls of the attic are additionally erected to a height of 1-1.2 meters. In this case, the height of the room must exceed 2.2 meters, and the width must be at least 2.4 meters. The insulation of the attic walls from the inside depends on how the roof is insulated.


Currently, the following methods of attic insulation are used for roof insulation:

Insulation of the attic floor

Various heat insulators are used for floor insulation. Materials are placed between the joists or on the sub-floor. To insulate the flooring with fiberboard plates, first two layers of roofing material are laid, and then fiberboards are placed in two rows. A clean floor is laid on top.

Sometimes they use a well-known method - insulation with sawdust, which is poured

15-20 - a centimeter layer on roofing felt in the intervals between the lags. To prevent mice from settling in the thermal insulation layer, the sawdust should be mixed with lime. It is bad that such insulation belongs to flammable materials.


Insulation of the attic ceiling

When using ecowool, a crate is specially mounted on a hemmed ceiling, which is covered with a vapor barrier film (for more details: ""). If polyurethane foam is used, then it is applied to the mounted roof from the inside, and the hemmed ceiling, if necessary, is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool (read: "").

Insulation of the attic pediment from the inside

The presence of a vapor barrier is necessary when using ecowool, glass wool, mineral wool, foam. Additional vapor barrier is not needed when using foam or polyurethane foam.

More and more owners are thinking about how to turn the empty attic of their house into a comfortable space. First of all, it must be reliably insulated. It is not difficult to do this with your own hands, having studied the technology of work and the properties of insulating materials.

General requirements for the thermal insulation system

For the effective operation of thermal insulation, the following is necessary:

  • The insulation should cover all surfaces without gaps, with a continuous “carpet”.
  • The thermal insulation material is protected from the ingress of condensation formed under the roof as a result of the interaction of warm humid air from the inside and cold air outside.
  • Condensation formed must be removed through ventilation ducts.
  • The insulation should be completed with a windproof layer that protects it from heat blowing out.
  • The selected material must comply with all sanitary and building codes.
Correct insulation of the attic

Material selection

Consider the most popular options for insulating the walls of the attic with your own hands from the inside:

  • Mineral wool. Inexpensive material, convenient for work. Soundproof rooms well, does not accumulate moisture during operation. For laying between the rafters, it is cut into sheets 1-2 cm wider than the distance between them. The material is inserted into the rafter gaps and, due to elasticity, is tightly held in them.
  • Styrofoam. This insulation belongs to the budgetary and practical methods of insulation. It is safe for health, does not rot or decompose. But the complete absence of steam permeability and vulnerability to rodents reduces its effectiveness. Loose joints between the plates also negatively affect the preservation of heat.
  • Polyurethane foam. Insulation, easily applied by spraying to any surface using a portable installation. The applied layer has no breaks and pores, which has a positive effect on the quality of insulation. The material is not sufficiently resistant to high temperatures.
  • Ecowool. The cellulose-based material is sprayed or hand-applied to create a seamless finish over the entire surface. Requires protection of the resulting surface from moisture exposure with a vapor barrier material.
  • Foil materials. In relation to traditional thermal insulation, these heaters have better properties due to the mirror layer applied to them. This layer reflects the heat escaping from the room back, increasing its thermal protection. Due to the small thickness, savings are created in the occupied volume of the room.

Attic insulation materials

What does the right thermal insulation consist of?

Correctly done insulation of the walls of the attic floor should consist of several layers (in order):

  • Windproof vapor barrier. It is fixed under the roof covering above the rafters with slats.
  • Counter grill. It is necessary to create a ventilated space between the roof and waterproofing and to remove condensate accumulating there.
  • Waterproofing, preventing the insulation from getting wet, in order to avoid the loss of its thermal insulation properties.
  • Insulation. The material is fastened between the rafters and is the main element of the "constructive pie". A ventilation gap must be left between it and the waterproofing film.
  • Lathing. The slats stuffed across the rafters hold the insulation and serve as the basis for fastening the vapor barrier.
  • Vapor barrier. The membrane film is fixed with an overlap with a gap of 10-15 cm. All sections are fastened together with adhesive tape to form a solid coating without gaps.
  • Interior decoration - plasterboard, OSB, GVL, etc.

Insulation device diagram

The procedure for insulation with mineral wool

Purchase of material

First of all, it is necessary to put in order all the nodes of the rafter system, since after insulation it will be impossible to approach them.

Then you need to measure the dimensions of the roof, walls and floor and calculate the required amount of insulation. The calculated area of ​​coverage must be increased by 10%, which will make it possible to slightly compress it during installation and protect it in the event of a small error in the calculations.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of mats or rolls with a thickness of 5 and 10 cm. Effective insulation of the outer walls and roof should be at least 15 cm, based on this value, and you need to purchase insulation.

Mineral wool in rolls is preferable for work in the sense that it can be used to create a coating with a minimum of joints, reducing possible heat losses.


Mineral wool is available in the form of mats or rolls

Open the insulation

It is necessary to cut the sheets of mineral wool every time, having previously measured the distance between the rafters or logs where it should be placed. During the construction process, it is not always possible to keep these distances strictly the same, and the insulation should be placed there with light effort.

To do this, the width of the mat to be laid is made 1-2 cm wider than the distance between the rafters. Many builders take into account the need to insulate the attic and immediately put the rafters at the right distance from each other.


It is convenient to use a special knife to cut the mineral wool.

Insulation installation

At this stage, the cut sheets are inserted between the rafters. If the pitch of the rafters is large and the width of the sheets must be increased, then the required size can be obtained by increasing them. In addition to the standard mat, an additional insert is cut, which is fixed using dowels-mushrooms, or thin nails with wide heads.

Such hardware can be made from standard nails yourself, using hand-cut washers made of galvanized, aluminum or thick plastic. Washers are not required to comply with strict forms, the main thing is that they hold the loose insulation well.

Hardware is driven through the insulation into the crate. At this point, it is necessary to carefully monitor so that the nails do not pierce the rail through and through and do not damage the waterproofing. It is impossible to tighten the mats tightly, the washers should only keep the insulation in place, not allowing it to move.

The mats should be stacked close to each other, without gaps and crevices. If a layer of insulation is planned from two layers of mineral wool, then the joints of the layers should not be one above the other, but overlap.

Mineral wool is easily compressed, so it cannot be laid in a continuous layer above 2.5-3 m. In this case, it is necessary to place wooden lintels between the rafters on which it will rest.

Many manufacturers produce mineral wool in mats, which are rough on the one hand and smooth on the other. This means that the smooth layer is water-repellent and must face the roof during installation.


Mineral wool sheets are tightly inserted between the rafters

Installation of vapor barrier

The next stage of work is the fastening of the vapor barrier. To prevent the occurrence of a dew point inside the insulation layer, it must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Dew point means a place of condensation of water vapor, which inevitably arises at the interface between cold and warm space, that is, the street and the room.

The appearance of moisture in the insulation dramatically reduces its insulating characteristics and can lead to the appearance of fungus and rot inside it and on the rafter system.

Rows of vapor barrier film are attached to the rafters parallel to the floor from bottom to top. A construction stapler is used for installation. When fastening, it is necessary to observe an overlap of the film of at least 10 cm. All seams are tightly glued with tape so that a single solid surface is formed.


A vapor barrier is mounted on top of the insulation

Fastening the lathing

On top of the vapor barrier, rails are attached for the installation of interior decoration. These can be 20x50 slats, or inexpensive boards of the same thickness. The step of the lathing depends on the material with which the interior decoration will be carried out. Dense OSB or plywood requires rare fasteners - after 50-60 cm, for drywall sheets, a more frequent crate is needed - after 20-30 cm.

The procedure for foam insulation

The thickness of the foam is selected based on the temperature regime in the place of residence. For average Russian conditions, a thickness of 15 cm is sufficient.

Fastening of foam sheets can be carried out in two ways:

  • Wide-headed nails;
  • Construction foam.

The technology of fastening with nails is similar to that used when installing mineral wool.

Foam mounting is more costly but gives better results. To use it, you need a professional foam assembly gun. Don't buy cheap household foam. It comes with a plastic foam tube, which is very inconvenient to use to fill narrow gaps. The tube bends, it must be guided with the free hand, and as a result the glue seam is of very poor quality. If the balloon is not completely used up, then the foam will freeze in the tube, making it unusable for further use. A professional foam gun is free of these disadvantages.

In addition, the material of professional foam itself is of higher quality than that of household foam.

Cutting the styrofoam

The distance between the rafters is measured and transferred to the foam sheet. For each sheet, measurements are taken locally. When cutting, it is necessary to increase the dimensions of the workpiece by 1-2 mm, this will increase the strength of its pressing against the rafters.

For work, it is convenient to use a hand saw or a stationery knife. With a large amount of work, you can make a special cutter from nichrome wire.


Foam Cutting Machine

Detailed article - with a knife or with a machine.

Application of an adhesive layer

With the help of a pistol, a continuous layer of foam is applied to the places of abutment to the rafters and adjacent sheets. For better adhesion, the foam needs to dry for 3-5 minutes.

Insulation laying

The prepared foam sheet is inserted into place. The insulation must be placed in such a way that it does not touch the waterproofing film anywhere. In such places, dew can collect and run off onto the wooden elements of the roof. Polyfoam along the perimeter of the sheet, if necessary, is additionally foamed.


The foam is fixed between the rafters

Installation of vapor protection

After the foam hardens, the protruding excess is cut off, and the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. The principle of its installation is the same as for thermal insulation with mineral wool - a gradual build-up of the surface from bottom to top with complete sealing of all joints.

Fastening the lathing.

On top of the vapor barrier, lathing bars are attached for the subsequent installation of interior decoration.

Warming of the pediment

Installation of insulation on gable walls does not differ from fastening it to side walls or roof. To install the protection, it is necessary to make partitions from boards measuring 5 × 150 mm. Their layout should resemble the structure of the rafter system:

  • The thickness should correspond to the thickness of the insulation.
  • The distance between them should ensure tight retention of the thermal protection sheets.

To insulate the gable, it is necessary to install partitions

Floor insulation

Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in the same way as wall insulation, with one exception - the vapor barrier film is placed under the insulation, and the waterproofing is placed on top.

Major mistakes

All the positive aspects of heaters can be negated by errors in their installation:

  • Carrying out work at low temperatures. This leads to insufficient drying of the glue and loss of strength of the insulation layer.
  • Wrong choice of material thickness. Insulation of insufficient thickness will not give the desired effect, and too thick a layer will lead to unnecessary material costs.
  • Creep of thermal insulation due to insufficient fastening. This leads to the appearance of unprotected places and intense penetration of cold through them.
  • Lack of steam and waterproofing. In this case, the insulation will get wet, absorbing moisture, and will quickly lose its properties.
  • Installation of vapor and waterproofing films with sagging. These materials should be fastened with slight tension.
  • Lack of ventilation. In an unventilated attic, condensation forms on the walls and inside them, spoiling the insulation.

Carrying out work on the thermal insulation of the attic on your own, you must take a responsible attitude to all stages - from the development of the project to the fixing of the final finish. In this case, a self-created room will delight the owners with comfort for a long time.

Increasingly, when building a private house, owners are planning to use the under-roof space as an attic. It is very important to ensure the comfort of living is not worse than on full-fledged floors; for this, insulation is performed. Before insulating the attic, you must carefully study this issue.

Attic benefits

An attic floor is a heated room under the roof, while the height of the outer walls should be from 0 to 150 cm. Planning such a floor has the following advantages:

  • the possibility of an interesting room design;
  • reducing the cost per square meter of living space;
  • additional living space.
Attic floor drawing

Insulation areas

When designing an attic space, you need to think about the thermal protection of the roof and walls. Do-it-yourself attic insulation will allow you to significantly save on the construction or repair stage and fully control the process.

Insulation of the attic roof from the inside can significantly reduce heat losses, since the heated air moves upward. Thermal protection of walls can be carried out both from the inside and outside. The choice of the method depends on the technology of insulation of the outer walls of the entire building. It is competent from the point of view of heating technology to mount the material from the cold air side.

If necessary, the heat-insulating material is also placed in the floor structure. In this case, the insulation plays the role of sound insulation and ensures maximum comfort of living.

Wall insulation


Attic wall insulation scheme

The following materials are used to insulate the attic floor and ensure that the temperature is maintained during the winter period:

  • Styrofoam;
  • extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
  • mineral wool (glass wool, basalt, slag);
  • polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam).

These materials are the most effective for thermal protection. If necessary, thermal insulation can be installed from the inside of the room, but it is best to mount the material outside. Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside has the following disadvantages:

  • reduction of the usable space of the room;
  • protection from cold only the internal volume of the building, not including external fences;
  • dew point displacement (condensation during the cold period) deeper into the outer wall structure.

But it is worth noting that this method can be used in any weather; it does not require additional scaffolding and scaffolding. Work can be performed without special qualifications.

To answer the question of how to properly insulate the attic from the inside, it is necessary to consider the order of laying the layers. It is important to ensure reliable protection of the thermal insulation material from any kind of moisture.

For this, vapor barrier and waterproofing are used. The most important rule when insulating walls and any other structures: vapor barrier is always located on the side of warm air, and waterproofing on the side of cold air. If these conditions are not met, the entire wall cake as a whole will not work correctly and soon it will be necessary to carry out not only cosmetic, but also more serious repairs.

The order of work for all types of thermal insulation does not differ significantly... To ensure reliable thermal insulation, it is best to proceed in the following order:

  • cleaning and leveling the base (when using polyurethane foam, it is recommended to moisten the base with water from a spray gun to improve the adhesion of polyurethane foam to the surface);
  • fixing waterproofing;
  • installation of the frame to secure the insulation (if necessary);
  • installation of insulation and its fixing;
  • vapor barrier layer;
  • interior decoration of the room (for fragile materials, installation of plasterboard sheets will be required).

When using extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, vapor barrier can be neglected. Polyfoam, when installed in rooms with a normal humidity regime, also does not need it.

Roof insulation


Mansard roof insulation scheme

The technology of insulating a mansard roof in most cases consists in laying heat-insulating material between the rafters. The following materials are best used:

  • mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane foam.

It should be remembered that when working with mineral wool and polyurethane foam, the performer will need protective clothing. Thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam is held in the design position due to adhesion (adhesion) to the surface. To improve this quality, it is recommended to slightly moisten the elements of the roof with water before application.

When using mineral wool slabs, it is best to set the pitch of the rafter legs so that the distance between them is 580 mm when clean. This will simplify the installation process when using standard 600 mm wide boards and prevent gaps between the insulation and wooden structures.

The joints between the foam and the rafters are filled with polyurethane foam or sealant. Fastening is performed using special glue or nails. The adhesive composition must not contain solvents (alcohol, acetone).

How to properly insulate the attic with your own hands? It is important to observe the following order of the layers of the roof:

  • finishing;
  • lathing;
  • vapor barrier;
  • rafters and insulation between them;
  • waterproofing;
  • wind protection;
  • lathing;
  • roofing material.




First, the supporting structures of the roof are mounted, after which waterproofing and wind protection are laid. After installing the upper lathing, they begin to lay the insulation. It is better to use special moisture and windproof membranes as wind protection and waterproofing.

Laying insulation in the floor structure

To prevent increased audibility between floors, you can put 30-50 cm of insulation in the ceiling cake. Installation can be carried out under the screed or on the joists. When using polyurethane foam, the installation of a lag is always required. When installing foam plastic under the screed, it is reinforced with additional reinforcement with meshes, the diameter of the reinforcement is taken as 4 mm.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

Before insulating the attic, it is necessary not only to select a heat-insulating material, but also its thickness. It depends on the climatic region of construction and on the thermal conductivity of the insulation. It is better to choose materials with a lower thermal conductivity: the higher it is, the greater the thickness of the heat-insulating layer will be required. The value for private construction can be taken approximately.

A full-fledged heat engineering calculation can be performed using a fairly simple Teremok program. It is freely available and fairly straightforward to use. With this application, you can choose the thickness of the heat insulator or check the already accepted one.

Competent insulation of the attic from the inside will ensure the comfort of living and avoid problems during operation.

It is important to pay equal attention to all external surfaces. Correctly selected thermal insulation can last a long time and reliably protect the house from the cold in winter.