Insulating the steam room from the inside step by step instructions. How to insulate a bath from the inside, if the walls are made of bricks, blocks or wood, so as not to freeze in the steam room? How to insulate a bath with stone wool

Lining is a finishing material, it is attached to the walls when all other work is completed, including insulation. Therefore, one should ask the question of how to insulate the bath from the inside under the wall paneling long before its installation begins.

However, it also happens in a different way - the bath has been finished for a long time, but is not satisfied with the way it keeps warm. And then you need to think about how to properly insulate the bathhouse underneath in order to eliminate the problem with thermal insulation. Of course, it will have to be dismantled for a while. And then - to act exactly as if you were just building.

Types of suitable heaters

In our opinion, it makes sense to divide the types of thermal insulation materials for a bath into sheet, roll and backfill. In addition, there are insulation materials that are applied to the walls in the form foam or moistened mass- this is polyurethane foam and ecowool, which are sprayed using special equipment.

Mineral wool can be purchased as rolls or sheets. It all depends on its density and the binders used.

BY THE WAY! We rarely name specific brands, but do you understand that the names Rockwool or Isover are the same mineral wool produced by different companies?

Basalt wool Is a type of mineral wool, a literal reference to a similar mineral used. There is practically no difference.

Basalt wool for baths

But to confuse mineral wool and glass wool not worth it - these are different heaters, made of different materials and with different properties.

Glass wool it should not be used anywhere, because it is extremely unpleasant for a person - getting on the skin, it causes itching, is dangerous to health if it gets into the eyes or respiratory organs. Yes, and fiberglass crumbles during operation, turns into dust, and it penetrates through the cracks, and you breathe it.

He does not like fiberglass insulation and the high temperatures inherent in the bath.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam- good heaters, especially the last one, but it is dangerous to use them in a bath. They are categorically not suitable for a steam room, but could (theoretically) be used in other rooms, but we will not recommend them, since they are fire hazardous.

ADVICE! In the bath, polystyrene and polystyrene foam can be used in floors under a concrete screed - there they do not pose any danger.

So, leafy heaters are mineral wool, foam glass (excellent, but expensive insulation), calcium silicate and magnesium silicate sheets, non-recommended foam and extruded polystyrene.

Foam glass

Roll heaters are again mineral wool (lower density), glass wool. foamed polyethylene, with or without foil (penofol, isolon, etc.).

We have already spoken about fiberglass, now about foamed polyethylene e. It is often used as an additional insulation in residential buildings, but polyethylene does not tolerate high temperatures well, so you should not use it instead of foil for warming a steam room.

Foil insulation Penofol

IMPORTANT! Polyethylene is already melting at a temperature of one hundred degrees. By the way, it supports combustion.

In general, it is quite possible for them to insulate other rooms of the bathhouse (as a second layer).

Bulk we divide heaters for a bath into those that can be moistened and "glued" to the wall, and those that cannot. Expanded clay and vermiculite belong to the second category, ecowool - to the first.

AND vermiculite can be used to insulate floors and, where they hold well and keep warm inside the premises. In order to insulate the walls of the bathhouse with them, it is necessary that there is a gap between the two layers of the main wall material, a cavity that can be filled with insulation.

Ecowool- this is waste paper (cellulose) crushed into dust, with fire retardants, so that it does not support combustion. And she really does not support him - this is a good material for insulating baths where it is on sale. Ecowool is used dry and wet. Dry - for insulation of floors and ceilings, as well as for filling cavities. Wet - for application to walls.

Also on our website you can read two articles that give a more complete overview of heaters that can be used in a bath:

Insulation under the lining in the baths, built of different materials

How does the material of the walls affect the choice of thermal insulation? Let's sequentially consider the options of what a bathhouse can be built from, and compare the material and technology of insulation.

Brick

Brick baths - cold and non-combustible. The first circumstance prevents them from becoming traditional, because a cold bath (almost made of stone) needs to be heated for a long time, which is not particularly welcome in our high-speed age.

But the fact that it will not burn is a big plus, considering that the baths burn most often.

So, it is in order to reduce the disadvantages that thermal insulation should be used - it is most effective in this kind of buildings.

IMPORTANT! Thermal insulation of a brick structure can be not only internal or external, but also located between two layers of brickwork.

The latter circumstance increases the possibility of choosing a heater. Backfill expanded clay or ecowool Is a great solution. Ecowool, for example, is used in double-bar structures, and it has worked perfectly for decades.

You can also fearlessly fill the gap. polyurethane foam- it is expensive, requires hiring a team with equipment, but it is reliable and safe, because polyurethane is flammable, and nothing threatens it in the gap between the brick layers, including ultraviolet light, which destroys it.

In other cases, the traditional mineral wool- most often, because, for all its shortcomings, it does not support combustion, and a high-quality one does not yet release volatile organic matter that is harmful to health.

More information about the technology of brick wall insulation can be found in the article.

Blocks

Of course, a brick is also a block, but in practice we often call products made of slag concrete, foam concrete, aerated concrete... Of course, they are larger and more like blocks, but they still have more internal similarities than with bricks.

The fact is that high-quality brick does not crack, holds fasteners well, does not pick up moisture. In essence, it is burnt clay, almost a stone. And concrete blocks either contain light (in terms of density) impurities in the form of slag, or foamed in one way or another, that is, they contain air bubbles.

You can learn more about the similarities and differences between various foam concrete and cinder concretes.

Both have a strong effect on a number of qualities. Substantially reduced thermal conductivity blocks, they themselves perfectly keep heat even without insulation. But most of them are afraid of water, all of them do not hold fasteners well (hammering a nail into such a wall is problematic, but what can we say about fasteners, for example?). Breaking blocks is pretty easy.

But we are talking about thermal insulation. Do the blocks need it? Yes, in the bathhouse and living quarters it is needed, especially if the climate is harsh. But in addition to thermal insulation, it is worth taking good care of waterproofing wall material. To do this, it is covered with all kinds of films and membranes.

Mineral wool is also afraid of water, so it is better for blocks and mineral wool to be afraid together, under a layer of steam and waterproofing inside and out. You will find the device of the correct thermal insulation cake in the article.

Frame

A frame structure, in essence, is a heater between the slats, closed on both sides with OSB shields, boards, and other sheet material.

In other words, insulation is the main of two or three materials, forming the wall... Therefore, there is no need to carry out any additional work on thermal insulation, if the initial calculation was made correctly, and you correctly selected the thickness of the insulation.

Frame wall cake. For more information about the insulation of frame walls, see.

Standard "pie", that is, the layers that make up the wall of the frame structure are as follows:

if you start from the inside, then the first layer will be finishing, for example, lining;
the lining is nailed to the crate, which is attached to the frame racks;
under the crate there is a mandatory layer of vapor barrier, that is, a material impermeable to water vapor one hundred percent - it can be a plastic film or foil;
vapor protection directly covers the insulation, which is most often mineral wool, but there can also be reed slabs, a mixture of sawdust and gypsum / cement / clay, ecowool;
the insulation is located between the frame racks, equal to them in the thickness of the layer;
then there is, for example, an OSB board, which covers the thermal insulator from the outside and gives rigidity to the structure;
a membrane or a waterproofing film is mounted on top of the wall panel, which is permeable to water vapor from the side of the insulation, and impervious to the opposite side;
an external wall finish is attached on top of the waterproofing.

For more information on frame insulation technologies, see the article.

Wood

Wooden baths are either log cabins, that is, they are placed from cylindrical logs, or from a bar- logs with a square or rectangular section.

By tradition, such baths do not need additional thermal insulation at all, if correctly laid and carried out caulk gaps between the crowns. Can be used as caulking material tow, moss, linen... But for laying between the crowns at the construction stage, it is most often recommended to lay strips jute.

Natural heaters in the bath are preferable, but in addition to this, you can use modern sealants for wood, which have a certain elasticity, which allows them to change dimensions along with, which "breathes" even after the structure gives a final shrinkage.

If, during the operation of the bath, it turned out that the thickness of the timber or log house does not correspond to the severity of the climate, then you have to do additional insulation. This is also a standard "pie" consisting of lining, lathing, vapor barrier and insulation, the latter being attached directly to a wooden wall.

How a timber bath is insulated is described in the article.

How to properly insulate in a steam room

Steam room- this is the main bath room, from which visitors expect certain properties, in particular - long-term heat retention. For this, it is insulated, but this must be done taking into account the preferences of certain traditions.

The point is that in Russian bath prolonged heating and retention of heat is carried out due to prolonged heating by the same brick oven. Slowly heated wooden surfaces give off heat for the same long time. If the thickness of the walls is not small and there are no cracks in them, then additional insulation is not required.

In addition, the Russian bath does not pursue high temperatures. If you make a "thermos" in it, it can become a hindrance to maintaining fairly low temperatures(40-70 degrees) typical for this type of national bath. "Thermos" is made with foil.

For more information on using foil for the ceiling, see this

As for the Finnish baths - saunas, the task here is precisely to reach the set high temperature in the steam room in the shortest possible time and keep it until the end of the procedures, subject to intensive air exchange.

It is worth insulating the steam room only if there are real problems with heat loss.

ADVICE! Focus on the material of the walls: in a brick bath, thermal insulation of a steam room is required, in a frame bath, the thickness of the walls is included in the project, in a block bath it can be moderate, with a lot of emphasis on waterproofing, and in a wooden bath it may not be needed at all.

About the "thermos" a little lower, but otherwise the insulation scheme looks standard - most use mineral wool, because in fact there are not so many options for insulation in the bath under the lining of the steam room. But even if it is mineral wool, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is intended strictly for saunas and baths - this means that it contains reduced content of phenols and other harmful substances in a bundle for stone fibers.

In addition to mineral wool in the steam room baths can be used ecowool, and some other materials that are harmless to health.

You already know that insulation is placed directly on the wooden walls of the bath, in other cases it is separated vapor protection on the one hand and waterproofing with another. This applies to heaters that are afraid of moisture and lose their insulating properties from its action.

You can read more about the materials and technologies for thermal insulation of the steam room in the article.

Basalt wool specially designed for baths and saunas

Foil

Foil always provokes fierce controversy. The disputes themselves are divided into two categories: is foil needed in a Russian bath and what is its effectiveness in reflecting heat.

To begin with, mirrored surfaces have long been used for focusing and redirects different types of radiation, including infrared - remember the device of the same reflector. The lining in the bath does not interfere with infrared radiation.

IMPORTANT! But there is an essential condition for the mirror surface to work as a reflector - you need to have air in front of the foil. The adhesion of other material to the foil from the side of the reflection is unacceptable. Ventzazor from foil to lining is the very thing.

As for the use of foil in a Russian bath, there is no categorical prohibition, of course, but it is desirable that you have ways temperature control, for example, with the help of ventilation and the oven itself. In a steam room with an iron stove without brick or stone lining, with foil insulation, you will get a hard version of the sauna, the harm from which is more than good.

We have two articles in which we analyze the types of foil and the arguments for and against its use in the bath -,

A little about insulation inside and out

Buildings are isolated from external temperature not only from the inside, but also from the outside, however, each species has its own specifics that you need to know in order to make the right choice.

Residential buildings often insulated outside. Have you ever wondered why? The main reason is to make sure that the insulation is the first to take the blow of frost, and the wall material under it is less frozen. Consequently, the temperature difference between the room and the wall is reduced, along the way shifting the "dew point".

BUT! All this works in a constantly heated room, that is, in residential buildings.

And the bath is a place periodic use, in winter you warm it up for a long time, spending part of the heat generated by the stove to raise the temperature of walls, ceilings and floors. So, if thermal insulation is done inside, Then the time for heating the bath is reduced, because the low thermal conductivity of the insulator allows you to heat almost only the air.

If the bath is isolated outside, walls, floors and ceilings are inside the shielding, and the stove will have to work hard to heat this mass of wood or stone. That is why periodically used premises are not recommended to be insulated outside. Or do it in parallel with internal insulation where the climate is especially harsh. in Telegram to keep abreast of all the news on the site!

The room for the bath should keep warm well. To do this, during construction work, it must be well insulated from the outside and inside. After all, the steam room should not only heat up quickly, but also keep the heat for as long as possible. In this article we will tell you how to insulate a log sauna outside and inside.

Outdoor work

After we insulate our building from the outside, we will not only help to reduce heat losses, but also protect the walls of the building from external factors. But before we insulate the frame bath, we must choose the material that we need for the thermal insulation of the building. You must choose it depending on what material the walls of the bath are from.

Note! Due to the high humidity in the bath, only special vapor barrier materials should be used for its thermal insulation.

If the walls of our building are made of bricks or foam blocks, they must be thermally insulated, since without additional thermal insulation, such buildings will quickly cool down, which means that heating costs will increase.

The surest option to improve the thermal insulation of this building is to use the ventilated facade technology. In this case, a heat insulator will be attached to the walls of this building, if it is afraid of moisture, then it will need to be additionally insulated with a film.

On top of the insulating layer, it will be necessary to fix finishing materials in the form of lining or siding. It is imperative that a small space remains between the lining materials and the insulation, which will provide ventilation.

Usually mineral wool is now used as a heat insulator. But for the reason that as a result of getting wet, it can lose its original properties, it will need to be insulated with a film.

Ventilated facade method

The instructions below will tell you how to properly insulate the walls in a bath using the ventilated facade method.

on the outer walls of the structure, you will need to attach a bracket, which is represented by metal corners. The space between these corners, you should make a little less than the width of the sealing material;
mineral wool mats will need to be laid between the corners;
glue the joints between the plates with special construction tape;

then we attach a layer of waterproofing, which will protect the cotton wool from moisture ingress;
at the end, we install additional fasteners that you will need in the facing works of the bathhouse facade.

This method of thermal insulation of your structure will allow you to cope with several tasks at once. Mineral wool will allow the heat to stay in the bath for a long time, and ventilation between the cladding and the heat insulator will help create an air flow that will take moisture from the room.

Analyzing how to properly insulate a frame bath, we come to the conclusion that only mineral wool can become the best heat insulator for you, because it has a lot of positive qualities.

Of which can be distinguished:

incombustibility of this material;
low level of thermal conductivity;
good performance of sound insulation;
environmental friendliness.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bathhouse, built of wood

Now you know how to insulate a brick bath. Now let's talk about what may be required to insulate this structure, built of wood with our own hands.

From time to time, the walls made of wood can dry out and then gaps will appear between them, and as a result, cold air currents will begin to pass inside the room. Therefore, even during the construction of the bath, its walls should be insulated using jute fiber.

Note! Jute is a material that has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. It does not rot even when in a humid environment.

But at the same time, it is not strong enough, so it is advisable to use jute with the addition of flax fibers.

How to properly insulate a bath using this material? As we said earlier, it is necessary to begin to insulate this structure even during construction work.

You will need to insulate each element of the log house, and you will need to compact the jute fiber with a hammer or special caulk.

at the first stage of construction work, you will need to lay jute between the logs;
after the frame is erected, the joints between the timber and the log should also be sealed with jute;
seal all joints with caulking or hammer.

Advice! The final stage of compaction should be carried out sequentially, otherwise the blockhouse may be crooked. You must first caulk the lower crown around the entire perimeter of the house. After the first crown is thermally insulated, it will be possible to proceed to the insulation of the new crown, and so on.

Thermal insulation of a frame bath

We have already told you how to insulate a waiting room and a bathhouse made of brick and wood, now we want to tell you how to insulate a frame bath.

For such a structure, it is very important to choose the right heat insulator; foam is most often used as it.

This material has many advantages:

it is lightweight;
has a low percentage of thermal conductivity;
it can be fixed with glue;
he is not afraid of moisture;
on top of it, any material can be used as cladding.

But it also has a number of disadvantages.

Among them are:

flammability of some types of this material;
it crumbles easily, so you need to mount it with special care.

Note! The first point is very important, therefore, for thermal insulation of our building, it is advisable to use special types of foam that are not afraid of fire.

Bath insulation from the inside

Isolating the walls of this structure from the outside is not such a difficult process; it may require only a little free time and desire from you. Upon completion of all the necessary insulation work from the outside, you will also have to. And now we will tell you how to insulate the walls in the bath from the inside.

For the reason that in this structure, a high temperature must be constantly maintained inside, external insulation alone will not be enough.

We insulate the floors

You should start work on the thermal insulation of the building from the inside with the floors, but before that you must think about how to insulate the base of the bath. Indeed, without effective insulation of the foundation, it will not work.

For the reason that the foundation of our building will be in contact with the frozen ground, it will give off a lot of heat. It is necessary to insulate the foundation to the depth of soil freezing. Its underground part can be insulated with expanded clay, and the basement itself - with mineral wool.

Wall insulation

When deciding how and how to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside, give your preference to natural insulation - mineral wool.

To do this, you will need:

attach the frame to the inner walls;
put mineral wool in it;

provide waterproofing insulation;
sheathe the walls with any finishing material convenient for you.

Any suitable material can be used as a waterproofing agent. As a rule, waterproofing materials differ in price and their technical characteristics. But unambiguously, the best material for waterproofing is polyethylene films.

When deciding how to insulate the walls of a given structure, you should also know how to insulate the door to the bathhouse. Indeed, it will directly depend on how warm it will be inside a given room, and how long it will remain in it.

We insulate the ceiling

There are several ways to insulate the ceiling. The order of execution depends on the material of the floor, there are wooden and concrete floors.

Thermal insulation of a wooden ceiling

In this case, the order is:

cover the ceiling with a layer of fiberglass;
cover the fiberglass with a 30 mm thick screed made of clay and sand mixed with straw;
on top, apply a layer of clay and vermiculite 50 mm thick;
leave to dry;
after complete drying, lay a layer of foam or mineral wool 100-150 mm thick;

cover the surface of the foam with a cement-sand mortar screed.

If the ceiling is concrete

In this case, the order of work from the inside is as follows:

fasten 100x100 mm beams on the side walls every 50 cm;
cover the plates with fiberglass;

fix thermal insulation 100-150 mm;
cover the thermal insulation with a layer of foil;
fix the batten from the slats;
wash the lining on top of the slats.

Allows you to steam longer, while not wasting extra firewood or electricity.

Output

We told you how to insulate a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks, bricks and wood. You can get more information on this topic from the video in this article.

The main function of the Russian bath is to improve human health. To achieve this goal and in no case harm your body while visiting the bath, you must properly insulate the bath. If all the rules for warming this type of room are observed, the heat in the bath remains for a long time, which significantly saves money spent on heating it.

The process of insulating walls in a bath

In most cases, insulation must be done indoors. This allows you to quickly heat up the bath and also quickly cool it if necessary. The bath has the following properties:

Relatively low air temperature 50-60 degrees;
High humidity. Sometimes it can go up to 100%.

Phased internal insulation of the bath

In order for these indicators to remain normal, it is necessary not only to properly insulate the bath, but also to use for this purpose those that have been proven for years and have proven themselves well.

Existing types of heaters for a bath

All of them, without exception, must meet the following safety requirements:

Not to disturb, but only to maintain a healthy atmosphere in the bath.
Resistance to temperature changes in air.
Lack of harmful impurities released into the atmosphere.
Without smell.
Fire resistance.

All these indicators should be taken into account in the process of general bath insulation, especially when choosing a heater for a steam room.

Steam room insulation scheme in the bath

Nowadays, there are many completely different types of insulation on the market. Among them, the most demanded and popular among buyers are the following types.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a natural material with a fibrous structure. It is obtained by processing a mineral stone, some of its rocks, for example, basalt rock. Vata has a number of beneficial properties. These include:

Mineral wool sheets for bath insulation

Mineral wool comes in different densities and hardness. In specialized stores, it can be purchased in the form of soft rolls, semi-rigid mats or rigid slabs. It all depends on the purpose for which it is intended. In other words, with its help, the bath will be insulated from the inside, or vice versa from the outside.

Glass wool

Glass wool lags far behind mineral wool in terms of its technical parameters. It is made using glass, or rather, its waste remaining during its production.

The process of finishing a bath room with glass wool

Glass is mixed with soda, sand and dolomite. The result is a high-quality insulation.

It is recommended to insulate the bath with glass wool only from the outside, as it does not tolerate high temperatures well. And over time, it begins to smell rather unpleasant. Basically, the attic and the roof of the bath are insulated with glass wool.

Jute felt

It is also called the mezhventsovy type of insulation. Jute fiber felt is a natural material of natural origin. It is produced from the fibers of the jute plant.

It looks like a roll of jute felt

Mostly jute fiber is used for the production of rope ropes. Also from it get fabric - burlap. Everywhere they insulate the bath, namely its walls.

Jute is able to retain heat well inside the room, and also removes excess moisture from it. Jute fiber itself is rather fragile and tough. That is why, in order to enhance its thermal insulation properties, flax fibers are added to it. The most famous brands of this insulation are flax, felt, linen.

All of them are collected in tape bobbins. It is characterized by such properties as resistance to settling and drying out, and the felt practically does not rot.

Expanded clay

It is a material with thermal insulation properties. It is mainly used for warming up rooms and in a bath. Expanded clay in appearance is similar to small balls. Their production is associated with such a process as the rapid firing of clay.

An example of floor insulation in a bath with expanded clay

Heat insulation of the chimney with expanded clay

It is used as one of the types of backfill. The effect of thermal insulation is achieved when the height of the backfill layer is at least 25 centimeters.

Styrofoam

It is used to insulate external walls. The whole is pasted over with material, then it is plastered or covered with cladding.

An example of finishing a bath with foam

Polyfoam can not be used when insulating walls inside the building itself. It releases phenol into the atmosphere. Polyfoam is unable to withstand elevated temperatures and does not have sufficient fire resistance.
See the video for a review of heaters for a bath.

An example of fastening insulation in a frame bath

They are preliminarily covered with a protective film and only then the insulation - basalt wool - is fixed.

The process of installing a vapor barrier in a frame bath

In the twin room, a vapor barrier film with foil is additionally used.

Thermal insulation of a log bath

The bathhouse, cut out of wood, practically does not need insulation. The only places that are subject to this process are inter-crown joints. For thermal insulation, jute fiber is used with the addition of flax elements.

Detailed diagram of the insulation of a log bath

The steam room of the bath is also subject to additional insulation. Mineral wool is suitable as a heater for it. Foil is used for vapor barrier walls.

Thermal insulation of a block bath

Thermal insulation of a block-type bath is similar to the process of thermal insulation of a brick bath. To begin with, the walls of the bath are insulated from the outside. This will keep the room at an optimal temperature. The walls are traditionally sheathed from the inside with aspen clapboard. It is the most suitable option as it has low thermal conductivity.

Scheme and names of elements for warming a block bath

In addition to such insulation, the walls in the double room are covered with the so-called warm puff. It consists of a layer of mineral wool surrounded on both sides by foil or vapor barrier.

The process of installing a wooden frame on blocks

Having thus completed all the necessary steps to insulate the block bath, it is possible to achieve relative ease in heating the room to certain temperatures and maintaining it as much as required.

Correct insulation of individual blocks of the bath

Any bath needs good thermal protection. Moreover, each separate block of the bath must be insulated in its own way. For this, not only modern types of expensive insulation are suitable. Simple and accessible materials have been known since the time of our grandfathers. So how and how can you insulate a bath yourself?

The names of the elements and the principle of warming the bath room

Thermal insulation of the basement of the bath

For its insulation, only those types of insulation are suitable that have properties such as:

Resistant to high humidity.
Biological resistance to damage of various types.
Ability to withstand temperature extremes.

These properties are possessed by polystyrene. With its help, they do it immediately after it solidifies. In this case, the sheets of cellular foam are fixed on the outside of the base of the bath.

Bath foundation insulation scheme

The thickness of these layers should be 5 cm. It is best to use 2 layers of foam, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

As additional insulation, the foundation is covered with warm plaster.

Thermal insulation in the sauna floor

Traditionally, the floor in the bathhouse is a wooden flooring. There are two types of flooring:

Leaking floor. This name was given to the cold floor, between the boards of which there are small gaps. Through them, water leaves the bathhouse on the street.
Non-leaking floor. This is the so-called deaf floor. It differs from the previous floor in a way. This floor is made with a slight slope in one direction. A special water collector is made in the basement of the bath.

The process of floor insulation in the bath

Only non-leaking floor is subject to insulation in the bath. At the same time, two types of insulation are suitable for such purposes: expanded clay and basalt wool. They fill all the gaps between the two floorings: rough and final. At the same time, do not forget that both of these materials need protection from moisture. It is performed both from the outside and from the inside. If a concrete floor is provided in the bath, then foam or mineral wool is used for its insulation, in the form of hard mats.

The process of laying foil material on the floor

In the double room, the concrete floor is not insulated at all. To protect it from the cold, you just need to put wood grates on top of it. A so-called underfloor heating system is created in the concrete floor washing compartment.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath

In the process of warming the walls of the bath, you should especially pay attention to them. To enhance the protection of walls from moisture, a film not specially designed for this is used, but insulation with a reflection effect or foil.

Wall insulation scheme in the bath

When installing such a heater, it is imperative to leave a small gap between it and the finish of the bath.

An example of laying mineral wool on the walls in a bath

When installing the upholstery, it is advisable to use a crate. It is fixed over the mirror side of the insulation. The mirror film is fixed to the walls in a vertical position. In this case, the stretching of the strips should be avoided.

The process of fixing foil on the walls in the bathhouse

Since this material is rather thin, the foil on the wall is made two-layer. All joints between the strips are glued with special tape.

In stone baths, with additional wall insulation, basalt wool is used. It is protected on both sides by hydro vapor barriers.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bath

The ceiling, like no other part of the bath, needs reliable thermal protection. The heated bath air comes out most of all through it. The ceiling of the bath can be insulated in two ways. These include:

Previously, in order to qualitatively insulate the ceiling of the bath, sawdust with foliage was used. Dry sand with a thickness of at least 5 cm was poured on top. Ceilings were covered with a layer of liquid clay. This method of ceiling insulation is quite popular, it is still used today.

Bath roof insulation

The roof of the bath is insulated using the standard insulation scheme. Exactly in the same way. Insulation is chosen based on how the attic of the bath will be used in the future.

Scheme for installing insulation on the roof of a bath

If planned, then in this case the roof with mineral wool.
If the attic is planned to be used only for household needs, then mineral wool can be replaced with glass wool.

This will help to significantly save money allocated for the purchase of insulation.

Example of foil-clad insulation on the ceiling

If you yourself are planning to build or repair a steam room, then, most likely, you wondered: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples from the video.

Why is it necessary

A person in a steam room has often encountered such a phenomenon as condensation. It forms when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It does not matter whether the steam room is built into the room or it is a free-standing structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and how much. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore, a thermal chamber is required.

Wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality in order to provide a "perfect" microclimate in the steam room.

To make the wood last longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - fire retardants). They increase stamina. This safety measure is justified, as the temperature in the steam room reaches 100 ° C. However, chemical mold coatings at high temperatures will give off toxic fumes.

The main "ally" of wood flooring is insulation, which should keep hot steam inside the room and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and extends the service life.

Correct insulation of the ceiling in a bath or steam room with your own hands implies the observance of the following points:

Steam must accumulate and be stored indoors.
The inside of the roof must be protected from high humidity.
It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensation both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the clapboard in the walls and ceiling.

Features of heaters

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from the hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulate moisture. These products will definitely not work. The best way is to finish with several layers:

The first thing to do is to use an insulating material that prevents water from entering.
Lay a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
The third level is aluminum foil.

Such "layering" keeps heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, therefore heat losses are reduced.

Heaters can be divided into the following types:

fibers;
plates;
blocks;
wall slabs;
backfill.

And depending on the composition, they are distinguished:

Organic, such as ecowool.
Inorganic - mineral wool.
Expanded polystyrene.
Other heaters such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath

A quality insulation material should be:

heat-resistant so that no fire occurs;
environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful vapors);
"Breathe" so that water does not collect and condensation does not accumulate;
resistant to moisture.

Varieties and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with and without an attic. Structurally, the options for buildings from logs and from panels are similar. They have:

isolation from steam;
insulation;
filing from boards;
beams
sheathing.

There is a vapor barrier on the wall and ceiling, then a timber, then a heater. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a bar and fixing the lining. As an option, respectively, a beam of 40 mm and a heater of 40 mm. You don't need too much insulation. Overruns of materials in this case are inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope in order to collect condensation. As a result, a space remains under the lining, allowing the bath to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to warm up a bath well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-processing oven.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

smear the entire lining with a layer of clay up to two centimeters to reduce heat loss;
sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps to eliminate condensation).

If you want to make a properly working steam room, then you first need to take care of the vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a vapor pocket up to the level of the upper edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

The vapor barrier of floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is already a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and deal with the vapor barrier of the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace the damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate from the outside to prevent moisture from entering in the form of condensate along the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bath, wall insulation from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60 ° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well-waterproofed ceiling and a volumetric brick oven with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, on top of aerated concrete walls, put foam glass insulation with plates 50 mm thick, and then plaster and make decorative wood sheathing.

Deck ceiling

He can not be seen as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method was previously considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop up everything they needed for construction themselves. This is the most expensive option now.

There are several installation options.

Along the crowns of a log house, if the area of the room is small (length is not more than 2.5 m). As an overlap, boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used, an even more economical method is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
There is an interesting option for overlapping with unedged sanded boards. They are placed in 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
On the floor beams. With this option, the area of the room can be larger. The accent on the beams will add flavor and look great.
On the supporting frame made of strips. Suitable for small rooms and is used less often. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle heavy loads.

The process takes place in several steps.

In the attic, a vapor barrier film (PIP) is lined with an overlap of 10-15 cm (the foil surface is down).
Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead of it, you can cover the surface with expanded clay or cover with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
The work ends with the laying of a waterproofing film (HIP) - roofing material or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have a bearing capacity, they are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or shields of grooved boards are evenly laid on them. Such a structure is insulated with a fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

The HIP is taken and placed on the beams from the side of the roof. This is done with an overlap.
Boards or plywood sheets are placed on the waterproofing.
Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the local climate). All joints must be closed with the next sheet.
We attach a vapor barrier from the bottom of the beams.
Then we attach wood slats.
At the last stage, the lining is attached.

After completing all the work, you will receive additional storage space - an attic or attic.

Panel ceiling

It is difficult to do it yourself. To begin with, a special structure is made from panels. Then it must be fixed on top of the cross beams or on the top of the wall. How is the installation:

Planks are placed close to the supports (perpendicularly).
Then we attach narrow boards to the inner side of the PP, they will be bumpers.
The next step is to lay the PIP.
We put ecowool (or any other) in the resulting space of the panels.
Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing material.
The final stage will be the installation of the boards, they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in the bath: which material is best suited

It used to be customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people are using the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are a non-professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

basalt wool;
expanded clay;
penoizol;
ecowool and others.

You can also use foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first exudes harmful gases and can ignite. A good protective suit is shown for working with fiberglass.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this score, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors to be aware of:

this is a Russian bath or sauna;
what material the bathhouse is built from,
which stove is worth.

How to insulate outside

To keep the steam inside and not escape outside, you need to achieve the "thermos" effect. Insulation should be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need insulation for the ceiling in the bath. There are different options:

waterproofing film;
expanded clay;
mineral wool or others.

Builders create a "multi-layer cake" out of these elements. Blocks are used from the side of the roof. Put the PIP on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Consider some modern types of insulation:

expanded clay;
mineral wool;
ecowool;
expanded polypropylene;
penoizol;
growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure resembling ordinary cotton wool in appearance. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

long service time;
good hygroscopicity (perfectly absorbs water);
overheat resistant (fireproof).

The thickness of the wool is from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if you put it on the PIP. To work with her you need a tight suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in a bath. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. It is economical because it requires little fuel to heat the room. This insulation is presented:

mineral wool with aluminum foil (produced in rolls and plates);
polymeric cloth based on foil (has a small thickness, is produced in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

reflect IR rays;
protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and decay.

Such insulation maintains high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the entire steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), as in a greenhouse, respectively, in such a bath, it is imperative to do proper ventilation.

Expanded clay

In appearance it resembles small clay stones with pores. Absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak point. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay has many advantages:

an environmentally friendly product, without extraneous toxic impurities;
not flammable;
has a long service life;
bacteria and fungi do not form in it;
cheap product;
it's easy to use.

Penoizol

It is a liquid foam, it is referred to as heat-insulating materials. It fills in all areas (even hard-to-reach ones). It has many advantages:

cheapness;
excellent quality (does not expand when it dries up);
not flammable;
serves for a long time;
mold and mildew do not form on it.

Cement and sawdust

This method of warming is characterized as "old-fashioned". To make a ready-made mixture, you need 10 parts of sawdust, one part of lime, and one part of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. Economically, this is a profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

difficult to cook;
thermal insulation properties are lower in comparison with other options;
no protection against mold;
when dry, cracks appear that need to be lubricated.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Quite an effective way to keep warm. Environmentally friendly cellulose pulp. It contains substances that improve its properties: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them, ecowool:

resistant to fire;
resists the development of bacteria;
prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also lightweight and spreads over the entire area, filling the voids. Its main disadvantage is moisture absorption. This reduces thermal insulation.

Features of insulation products

Manufacturers offer a variety of membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that prevents heat from escaping. There are the following types with a foil layer:

polypropylene;
kraft paper;
roofing material;
membrane;
foil;
coating.

This film is mounted with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are glued with foil tape for construction work.

A wide variety of waterproofing products are available in specialized store areas - foil-coated kraft paper, construction membrane and other products. Although you can save money and purchase ordinary plastic wrap or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused in a wide range and do not understand what material to use, then use the advice of experienced builders. For example, it is recommended to use expanded clay with concrete floors.

No special preparation is required. For convenience, you can attach slats from a bar to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check if the expanded clay is evenly distributed. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay onto the entire surface (30 cm thick). A regular garden rake will help to distribute the granules evenly. If the attic space will be used in the future and a floor is provided, then expanded clay is laid at the level.

If the entire backfill is leveled, you need to put the GUI. Durable polyethylene is fine. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Scotch tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then boards are spread over the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-follow method that will help you insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands. But due to its low cost, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main task - the accumulation and "saving" of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and another 1 additional layer for thermal insulation. Such a measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, the process will take place in several steps:

an unedged board (5 cm) is taken and attached to the bottom of the beams;
to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
grooved aspen slats are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
we lay a vapor barrier material outside the roof;
on top of the laid mixture, distribute mineral wool 15 cm wide;
then we lay the polypropylene film;
we put boards on top of the resulting structure, this is the future floor of the attic.

If done correctly, you should end up with a great steam room. All the steam will stay inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

Dry method of insulation

Specialists Yu.P. Sosnin and Bukharkin E.N. in their book they suggest the following method:

we take grooved boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then we treat them with linseed oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
we sheathe them, observing the moisture gap - 3 cm;
spread the film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, or better, a foil coating with reinforcement);
the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in the bath, following the recommendations and following the technological process, then:

heat losses will significantly decrease (up to 35%);
there will be no fungi and pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
less firewood will be required;
the steam room will serve you longer.

In addition to these positive aspects, there are others:

you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
you will select all the materials that suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your renovated sauna.

The quality of the steam room depends on many factors. One of the main ones is the ability to retain heat. This must be taken care of even at the stage of construction and installation of the furnace. But this does not always work out, and over time, for various reasons, the sauna room can lose its heat-saving properties. However, it is not difficult to rectify the situation. For this, there are thermal insulation materials specially designed for saunas and baths.

The most popular sauna stoves are still traditional woodburning stoves. But today this is not the only option. Many owners choose electric ovens because of their ease of use and the ability to regulate temperature and humidity. Another modern solution is gas stoves: kindling does not require special skills, and the result does not depend on the quality of the firewood. But for safety reasons, only specialists should install such an oven.

Unlike a bath, the stones in a sauna lie outside, not inside the stove. The climate that is created in the steam room depends on the number of stones in the stove: the fewer stones, the faster the stove heats up and the drier the sauna... But whichever oven you choose, the main requirements for it are safety and reliability. This is especially true for electric furnaces: devices that are too powerful will require special additional electrical equipment, and low-quality ones can be potentially fire hazardous.

Tip # 2: consider the requirements for thermal insulation materials

If the technology of thermal insulation is violated or unsuitable materials are used, the steam room will warm up much longer and then quickly lose heat. Elimination of errors in the thermal insulation device can result in an almost complete restructuring of the room. There are a number of requirements for thermal insulation materials for saunas and steam rooms:

Effective thermal insulation properties: the more the sauna is heated, the higher the temperature difference between the steam room and other rooms. This means that the heat loss will be very rapid and significant, and high-quality insulating material must be in the path of the air flow.

Non-combustible insulation: High steam room temperatures pose a serious fire hazard, which can be mitigated by fire-resistant thermal insulation materials.

Moisture resistance: high humidity in a bath or sauna can quickly damage the structure of poor-quality insulation and reduce its properties.
Biostability: that is, the resistance of the insulation to damage by fungi and bacteria that can form in a humid environment.
Environmental friendliness: all materials for the construction of a sauna, including insulation during operation, should not emit harmful substances.

Tip # 3: choose heaters that match your sauna conditions

According to the chemical composition, insulation can be divided into two groups: organic and inorganic. The first ones are used less and less in the construction of saunas and baths: they do not withstand high temperatures and undergo thermal destruction, change their properties at high temperatures and are highly flammable. There are a number of materials that should not be used to insulate baths and saunas:

Expanded polystyrene: products made from it have an application temperature of only -50 ° C to + 75 ° C.
Extruded polystyrene foam: is always flammable and changes the flammability group from G1 (slightly flammable) to G4 (highly flammable).
Glass wool: has a short service life in a humid environment.
Polystyrene, polystyrene and polyurethane foam and others foam materials: when heated, they can emit harmful substances, and their flammability characteristics do not correspond to the conditions of the steam room.

Stone wool can be a good alternative as insulation. Its fibrous structure provides excellent thermal insulation properties. Unlike foam, it is not just non-combustible, but fire-resistant and can withstand temperatures up to + 1000 ° C. In addition, stone wool is an environmentally friendly and safe material made from natural stone. It is resistant to moisture, does not rot and is not a breeding ground for rodents and insects. Today, there are types of stone wool on the market, specially designed for warming saunas and baths.

Another advantage of stone wool heaters is that their installation is simple and does not require special skills. Here are some guidelines to follow to get the most out of it:

Start insulation of the room from the ceiling. Wooden guides are nailed to it with a step of 590 mm "in the light", in which slabs of stone wool are laid, fixed by a spur. No mechanical fastening is required. It is important to take into account that the insulation plates are placed in a foil layer inside the steam room.
Install the frame. A double frame is required for thermal insulation of the outside walls of the sauna, and a single frame for the interior walls. When insulating the inner wall of the room, it is enough to install plates with a thickness of 50 mm. For a wall facing the street, a material with a thickness of at least 100 mm or a combination of materials of 50 mm and 50 mm must be used.
Seal the joints between the slabs. Plates are mounted end-to-end, while the seams of the foil coating are glued with metallized self-adhesive tape. To simplify your task, you can use aluminum adhesive tape, designed specifically for use in baths and saunas. Reliably sealing the joints between the plates, it significantly increases the vapor barrier properties of the insulation.
Install the crate. It is needed to protect stone wool from contact with drops that collect on the foil of moisture. It is installed between the thermal insulation and the exterior trim to provide an air gap of 10-15 mm.
Insulate the chimney. Thermal insulation material is exposed to serious stress in conditions of prolonged high-temperature exposure. The cost of a mistake can be a fire. Stone wool completely eliminates the risk of fire. In addition, there are special types of it, created for the thermal insulation of fireplaces and chimneys.

The floor in the sauna can be made in two ways: wooden on logs with crate or concrete with tiles on the ground. In the first case, stone wool slabs are placed in the frame between the lags, and then waterproofing is performed. Rolls of waterproofing are mounted with an overlap at the joints of the slabs, and the seams themselves are additionally glued. Next, a wooden flooring is laid, on top of which the finishing floor is arranged.

A different technology is used for the concrete floor. First of all, rigid stone wool slabs are mounted and provided with waterproofing. Then a concrete screed is laid on it, on which the tiles are glued. In both cases, you need to remember that ensuring a quick outflow of water from the sauna is one of the most important requirements for the flooring of such a room, so the floor should be slightly tilted towards the drain hole.