Such a modern and only gaining momentum in our country method of facade decoration as siding seems to have been specially created in order to hide a layer of insulation underneath in parallel with giving the appearance of the house an aesthetic look. Moreover, for insulation, it will not be necessary to carry out troublesome "wet" processes of hiding the insulation under a layer of plaster. Two complex operations are combined into one and everyone benefits from this: both customers and contractors, and the technology is so simple that insulation under siding can be done by any good owner with the usual set of tools.
Why do you need insulation
Very often, developers have a question: "Why, in general, insulate the house?" Indeed, why? Indeed, in the recent past, no one even thought about it, but now suddenly it is necessary to spend a large sum on insulation. And many are beginning to remember the times of the USSR, when all energy resources really cost a penny, the batteries in the apartments could be red-hot like fire, so the vents were open in all rooms. Gas boilers no longer heated water in the heat exchanger, but the air outside and weighed so much that it was impossible to carry them - they were either turned over or rolled on crowbars.
But this time has already passed and, returning to reality, it is worth noting that energy resources are becoming more expensive and will continue to rise in price. Heating a home is becoming more and more expensive every year. And from this, unfortunately, we will not go anywhere. What are the ways out of this situation?
- First, it is the most complete use of energy from various types of fuel. Modern models of gas and electric boilers have an efficiency that has long stepped over the line of 90%, energy is even obtained from condensate. Pyrolysis boilers burn everything that is possible in solid fuels, even generator gases, and electricity energy is converted almost directly into long-wave infrared radiation. And the improvement will continue.
- Secondly, finally, humanity has begun to more actively use the energy of the Sun, wind, geothermal heat. Serious projects to generate electricity from tidal waves are under consideration. All of these are the most promising directions for the development of the energy sector because completely renewable natural sources are used.
- And, finally, regardless of what source the heating receives energy - in any case it is necessary to save it: not to allow it to leave the buildings without hindrance, but to create a barrier to its leakage. And the first and most effective measure is building insulation.
The laws of thermodynamics state that environments or bodies with different temperatures always tend to thermal equilibrium. That is, the warmer ones will give off heat to the colder ones until their temperatures become equal. If you stop heating any house, no matter what kind of insulation it has, all the same, gradually the temperature inside it will become equal to the outside temperature. The physical meaning of insulation is to reduce the rate of leakage of thermal energy, which means that much less fuel and money will be needed to compensate for losses, and the savings are so significant that competently profitable insulation pays off in a few years with a service life of several decades ...
It can be seen from the above figure that the main heat leaks from the house occur precisely through the walls - up to 43%.
Review of modern heaters
In modern construction, many heaters are used: bulk, spray, plate, roll. Each of them can be used in different building structures, but we are only interested in those that can be used in insulation under siding. First of all, we will consider the main characteristics of heaters and, on the basis of this, we will make a choice of those that are suitable for our purposes.
The main characteristics of insulation materials
Manufacturers and sellers of thermal insulation materials are vying with each other to extol the merits of exactly what they produce and sell. It often happens that, in principle, the same insulation is produced under different brands and has a different price. In order not to fall for the bait of marketers, you should independently understand the characteristics that will determine the right choice.
Coefficient of thermal conductivity
Different materials have different ability to transfer heat energy. The transmission intensity depends on the properties of the material itself, temperature differences and thickness. To assess this ability, they introduced such an indicator as the coefficient of thermal conductivity, which is denoted by the Greek letter λ (lambda) and is measured in W / (m 2 * ° K). For the same material, this value is constant and can be found in reference books, as well as in the accompanying documentation.
The physical meaning of the thermal conductivity coefficient is the amount of thermal energy in watts that a specific material with an area of 1 m 2 and a thickness of 1 meter transmits, if the temperature difference on its opposite sides is one degree. Naturally, the less will be λ for the selected material, the more chances it has to be called a heater. The figure shows the values of the thermal conductivity coefficient of the main heaters (λ≤0.1) in comparison with the main building materials.
For the convenience of heat engineering calculations v in such a concept as thermal resistance (thermal resistance, reduced resistance to heat transfer), which is nothing more than the inverse of the coefficient of thermal conductivity. This indicator is indicated by the letter R and is measured in (m 2 * ° K) / W. Obviously, for insulation purposes, the higher the thermal resistance, the better.
Water absorption
This indicator reflects the property of insulation to absorb and retain moisture in direct contact with water. There are two types of water absorption:
- Mass water absorption - B m=(m w/ m d)*100% , where m w Is the mass of water that has been absorbed by the material, m d- the mass of the material in an absolutely dry state. It can be seen from the formula that this indicator reflects in percentage how much the insulation can absorb and hold when wet in comparison with its dry weight.
- Volumetric water absorption - B v=(V v/ V 1 )*100%, where V v Is the volume of water absorbed by the material, and V 1 - its volume in a state of saturation with water. In fact, this indicator means how much a material can absorb in comparison with its volume in a water-saturated state.
If the insulation absorbs and retains water, then its density and volume increase slightly, but its strength decreases. Unfortunately, in this case, the thermal conductivity coefficient becomes larger, which reduces the thermal insulation properties. Manufacturers of insulation materials with a porous or fibrous structure (glass wool, mineral wool) treat the material with special hydrophobic additives.
For walls under siding, the water absorption rate is not so important, since the insulation has no direct contact with water. It is hidden under the cladding and is additionally protected by special membranes. In addition, the insulation under the siding is ventilated - excess moisture is quickly removed from it and compared with moisture atmospheric air... To exclude direct contact with water during transportation and storage, manufacturers use reliable packaging, which must be checked upon purchase.
Vapor permeability
A very important characteristic of any insulation is vapor permeability, which characterizes the material's ability to pass moisture in the form of vapor when atmospheric pressure is equal, but the partial pressure of water vapor differs. This indicator is estimated using the vapor permeability coefficient, which is measured in mg / (m 2 * h * Pa). The physical meaning of this indicator: how much water vapor in milligrams passes through a square meter of material per hour.
At first glance, a high vapor permeability coefficient is undesirable, as is water absorption, but in reality this is not at all the case. Inside a residential building, in most cases, the humidity is higher than in the outside air, therefore the partial pressure of water vapor is also higher. Steam tries to seep through building structures from the inside to the outside, but it encounters resistance from walls and insulation. It should be noted that water vapor can seep even through concrete, not to mention brickwork. The only reliable barrier to steam is metal, glass, and foam glass very close to them.
If the vapor permeability coefficient of the outer insulation is lower than that of the walls, then moisture will accumulate on their border, which in winter will freeze and destroy materials, and in summer it will contribute to the appearance of mold and mildew, especially on the walls of wooden houses. Construction science says that the vapor permeability of multilayer structures from the inside to the outside should increase, then the optimal humidity will always be maintained in the building structures. It is for this indicator that it is best to use mineral wool for insulation under siding.
Fire hazard
All building materials are classified according to the degree of fire hazard, including insulation, which must be taken into account when building houses. Very often these indicators are neglected, but sometimes this attitude leads to emergencies. Fires of insulated facades ordinary foam is no longer such a rarity, and the tragedy in the notorious "Lame Horse" shocked the whole world. A few sighs of toxic foam combustion products were enough to die painful deaths from suffocation for dozens of people.
All building materials are divided into non-combustible (NG) and combustible (G), which, in turn, are evaluated according to several indicators, we have summarized them in one table:
Naturally, non-combustible (NG) materials should be the priority in choosing insulation for siding.
Density and mechanical strength
Most heaters have a porous or gas-filled structure, respectively, and their density is low: from 15 (penoizol) to 250 kg / m 3 (some types of stone wool). Mechanical strength determines the ability of the insulation to withstand mechanical stress (compression, tension, load distribution). Under the siding, the insulation is not loaded with anything except its weight, so these parameters in our case are not so important.
However, the insulation must still keep its shape, be securely attached to the wall and fit snugly against it. Therefore, some manufacturers produce mineral wool slabs in which the inner surface has a density of 45 kg / m 3 - this allows it to fit snugly against the wall to be insulated, and the outer layer 90 - 100 kg / m 3, which allows the slabs to be securely fixed in the crate and to keep their shape.
Biological resistance
This indicator is useful specifically for ventilated facades, since the insulation is not located inside building structures, therefore, it can be exposed to mold and mildew. But manufacturers have foreseen this a long time ago and almost all thermal insulation materials are not inclined to this and may even come into direct contact with vegetation and soil, although this is not necessary.
Some types of foams can be exposed to small, but not as food, but for shelter - they like to arrange their own there. nests or gnaw through the moves... However, if the cladding of the house with siding is carried out correctly and efficiently, then the penetration of rodents is excluded.
Environmental friendliness
In the production of any currently produced insulation, chemical compounds are still used, some of which stabilize its properties, others help to keep the geometric dimensions, and still others hydrophobize material, the fourth are fire retardants and so on. Not all of these compounds are useful for humans, but that's not the point at all. The point is how much of these compounds they can release into the surrounding atmosphere in order to harm humans. In fact, this number is so negligible that it makes no sense to pay close attention to it, they are still outside the house under the siding.
There are heaters on the market that are positioned by marketers as absolutely environmentally friendly, since they are based only on natural materials - flax fiber or cellulose, which are glued together with no less natural and pure compounds. Naturally, "absolute environmental friendliness" is more expensive than the traditional and proven for decades mineral wool, from which for some reason not a single person died a painful death from poisoning. Here the consumer must make his choice and we will not give any advice on this matter.
Comparative characteristics of heaters
Among the modern variety of heaters, it is very difficult for an ignorant person to navigate. There is such an abundance of names, brands, varieties that even a specialist can find it difficult to make a choice. Let's try to understand this issue.
Mineral wool insulation
First, let us list the trademarks under which mineral wool can be found: Knauf, Linerock, Beltep, Axi, Termostek, Bazalit, Isover, Termobazalt ), Nobasil, Termo, Isobox, Ursa, Rockwool, Paroc, Technonicol. Isorock, Izomin, Izovol, Tehno, and this is not the most complete list.
We have summarized the main characteristics of mineral wool in the table:
| Mineral (stone) wool | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| 0,031-0,12 | |
| Water absorption | Up to 70% |
| 0,3-0,6 | |
| NG (non-combustible), G1, G2. G3, G4 | |
| Density (kg / m 3) | 50-225 |
| Environmental friendliness | Basalt (stone) mineral wool from well-known manufacturers has a binder (phenol-formaldehyde resins) in a polymerized (bound) state. For insulation outside the facade under the siding, they do not bring harm to humans. |
| Release form | It is produced in the form of plates and mats (rolls) of various standard sizes. |
Mineral wool is the preferred insulation for siding. When choosing it, one should, firstly, pay attention to the manufacturer (from the list listed above), secondly, the flammability class (it is better to choose non-combustible), and, finally, all its other properties: the required thickness, density, size and environmental friendliness.
Glass wool insulation
Most large manufacturers also have glass wool in their product range - this type of insulation has been known for a very long time and has been used, and is still being successfully used. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the table:
| Glass wool | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W / (m 2 * ° K)) | 0,03-0,052 |
| Water absorption | Up to 70% |
| Water vapor permeability (mg / (m 2 * h * Pa)) | 0-0,6 |
| Flammability class (Fire hazard) | NG, G1 |
| Density (kg / m 3) | 11-50 |
| Environmental friendliness | Glass wool, when properly installed, is absolutely chemically inert. It can be mechanically destroyed into small glass chips that can harm humans. |
| Release form | It is produced in the form of rolls and plates of various standard sizes. |
Due to its properties, glass wool may well be used as insulation for siding. Its heat-insulating and sound-shielding properties, durability and safety are best manifested with proper installation.
Heaters from expanded polystyrene (foam)
Most common and a well-known insulation is expanded polystyrene, or as it is called in everyday life - polystyrene. The simplicity of the production of this material, with a set of the necessary qualities, determined its widespread use. The characteristics of the foam are presented in the table:
| Expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W / (m 2 * ° K)) | 0,039-0,05 |
| Water absorption | Not more than 3% |
| Water vapor permeability (mg / (m 2 * h * Pa)) | 0.05 |
| Flammability class (Fire hazard) | G1, G2, G3, G4 (unmodified polystyrene foam has G4 flammability). Over time, the effect of flame retardant additives decreases. |
| Density (kg / m 3) | 60-220 |
| Environmental friendliness | Burning produces toxic products (phosgene, hydrogen cyanide, hydrogen bromide), which cause asphyxiation. Rodents can grow in the foam layer. |
| Release form | Available in slabs of various thicknesses. |
The main obstacle to using foam for thermal insulation of walls under siding is its flammability, therefore it is better not to use it in ventilated facades or use it with a flammability class of no more than G1. The best application for this thermal insulator is inside wall structures or under a layer of plaster.
Insulation from extrusive (extruded) expanded polystyrene
In terms of chemical composition, this insulation is absolutely identical with ordinary expanded polystyrene, only the production technology differs. It is obtained by extrusion (extrusion) through a special forming hole. As a result, this material displays new properties, it has a closed cellular structure and a much greater mechanical strength, which allows the use of extruded polystyrene (EPS) in such critical building structures as foundations and screeds.
EPPS is produced by most manufacturers of thermal insulation materials and can be found under various brands: Europlex, Styrex, Penoplex, UrsaXPS, Greenplex, Extrol, Kinplast, Novoplex, Styrofom, Technoplex, Primaplex, Technonikol - and this is not a complete list. Extruded polystyrene from different manufacturers is approximately similar in quality; it can differ in the presence of modifiers and plasticizers that improve its properties. The main characteristics of this insulation are shown in the table:
| Extrusion (extruded) expanded polystyrene (foam) | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W / (m 2 * ° K)) | 0,028-0,033 |
| Water absorption | 0,2-0,4% |
| Water vapor permeability (mg / (m 2 * h * Pa)) | 1.2-2 |
| Flammability class (Fire hazard) | G1, G2, G3, G4 |
| Density (kg / m 3) | 20-48 |
| Environmental friendliness | Combustion products are highly toxic (similar to foam). With unprotected insulation, rodent colonization is possible. |
| Release form | Slabs 20-200 mm thick, 0.6-1 m wide and 0.5-2.4 meters long. |
The excellent thermal insulation properties of EPPS, very low water absorption and the ability to withstand high mechanical loads, of course, make this material one of the leaders among heaters. But its ability to ignite and release toxic products limits its use in insulation under siding, and manufacturers recommend hiding it in building structures. In addition, the low vapor permeability of EPS will promote condensation of water on the outside of the walls, which is very undesirable, especially for wooden houses.
Polyurethane foam insulation
(Polyurethane foam) is a gas-filled plastic, which everyone knows very well for its roll (elastic polyurethane foam) or polyurethane foam (solid polyurethane foam). This insulation is applied in liquid form by spraying onto the surface, after which it foams and, in contact with atmospheric air and moisture, hardens. The characteristics of polyurethane foam are presented in the table:
| Polyurethane foam | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W / (m 2 * ° K)) | 0,019-0,03 |
| Water absorption | No more than 2% |
| Water vapor permeability (mg / (m 2 * h * Pa)) | 0.05 |
| Flammability class (Fire hazard) | G1, G2, G3 (depends on the used fire retardants) |
| Density (kg / m 3) | 30-150 |
| Environmental friendliness | PU foam is not afraid of water and organic solvents, but it degrades under UV rays. Gives off toxic gases on combustion. |
| Release form | Supplied in two components (polyol and isocyanate) |
Although Polyurethane foam emits toxic gases when heated strongly, it does not support combustion. It is successfully used as insulation for siding, but it is better to do this in stone houses. The extremely low vapor permeability of PU foam can promote moisture condensation, but this material has strong adhesion to most surfaces and "seals" the walls under its cover. A very simple application technology allows you to completely organize the insulation of the house in one working day.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Video: Modern heaters
Insulation technology for siding
Before you start insulating a house under siding, it is required to make heat engineering calculations in order to find out what kind of insulation and what layer should be used. The following table shows the recommended thicknesses of basalt or fiberglass wool insulation in the form of slabs with a thickness of 50 or 100 mm. In this case, the thermal conductivity coefficient is taken to be 0.036 W / (m 2 * ° K), and the resistance to heat transfer, as is known from the above, is the reciprocal.
The calculated data are given for the Moscow region, with its GSOP (degrees-days of the heating period). This is a conventional value showing the severity of climatic conditions in each specific region. GSOP can be found in the reference manual to SNiP 23-01-99.
It turns out that slabs of mineral or glass wool, either 5 or 10 cm thick, or a two-layer structure of 10 and 5 cm slabs can be used to insulate houses for siding. How this can be done will be discussed in the following sections.
Surface preparation
Before starting the process of warming and, it is required to carefully prepare the surface. Let's present the stages in the table:
| Miniature | Description of the preparation stage |
|---|---|
 | All outdoor lamps, decorative elements, drainage system are dismantled |
 | Removable, if any, window and door trims. |
 | The outer walls of a wooden house are cleaned from foci of decay, and then treated with fire-retardant compounds. |
 | The surface of walls made of bricks, aerated concrete, concrete is cleaned of sagging, dirt, and then treated 2 times with a deep penetration primer. |
Markup. Calculation of the number of components
In order not to be mistaken in the amount of necessary materials, it is necessary to make high-quality insulation and cladding. In this regard, we can give some practical advice:
- It is best to order the calculations for insulation and cladding in the organization where the siding is ordered. Experts will make all the necessary measurements of the house and calculations of all components. Considering that this will be done with the help of special software with maximum accuracy, this approach will lead to significant savings in the future.
- When calculating on your own, it must be taken into account that the lathing should always be installed below and above the wall to be insulated, at the corners, and should also frame all windows and doors.
- Most siding models are mounted horizontally, which requires vertical battens. The pitch of the lathing is determined, firstly, by the installation requirements for a particular cladding model, and, secondly, by the width of the insulation. The most common value is 60 cm. If mineral or glass wool slabs are selected for insulation, then the distance between adjacent lathing bars "in the light" should be 59 cm. This will ensure a tight fit of the insulation.
- The step of fastening the lathing bars themselves to the walls should be no more than 50 cm. Fastening to wooden walls can be carried out with self-tapping screws for wood, and to brick walls - with appropriate dowels.
- The thickness of the lathing bars must correspond to the calculated insulation layer, if the installation of wooden bars goes directly to the wall. If a metal frame or wooden frame is used on brackets, then the lathing bars are most often chosen 50 * 50 mm, or special U-shaped suspensions are used.
- When insulating under the siding, a ventilation gap must be made, the minimum value of which is 2 cm, and preferably 4-5 cm. For this, another one is mounted on top of the main lathing, to which the cladding is subsequently attached. this must be taken into account when purchasing components.
- If the layer of insulation exceeds 10 cm, then in this case it is best to use a cross crate when the directions of laying the insulation are mutually perpendicular.
- A layer of insulation made of mineral or glass wool, as well as foam must be covered with a special hydro-windproof membrane, which will protect against external influences, but freely pass water vapor from the inside to the outside. Membrane webs must overlap each other by at least 10 cm, which must be taken into account when purchasing.
- After calculating the number of all components, add 10% to them, since waste when trimming and fitting is inevitable.
Installation of insulation under siding on a wooden crate
In most cases, for the installation of siding, including insulation, a wooden crate made of bars is used. The use of just such a crate has advantages:
- Lumber has an affordable price.
- The tree is easy to handle.
- It has a much lower thermal conductivity compared to metal and does not form cold bridges.
- Wooden blocks can be attached directly to the wall, no special brackets are required.
In this case, all the same, the wooden crate has disadvantages:
- Wood is susceptible to mold and mildew (removed by treatment).
- Wood belongs to flammable and combustible materials (partially eliminated by processing with special compounds).
- It is not always possible to pick up even wooden blocks of the required length.
When choosing lumber, you should always choose only those that are dried, the moisture level should not exceed 10-12%.
For self-insulation for siding, you need a simple set of tools:
- Marking cord, building level, plumb line, water level.
- A hammer drill with a set of necessary drills.
- Electric drill with a set of drills.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Spatulas - for applying adhesive mixture to polystyrene foam boards.
- Construction knife with a set of spare blades.
- Stepladder or platform.
The installation process is presented in the form of a table:
| Miniature | Description of the installation steps |
|---|---|
 | All wooden blocks are treated with fire retardant compounds 2 times. The second treatment can be started only after complete drying. |
 | On the previously prepared and marked surface of the walls, corner bars of the lathing are mounted, which should be 10 cm away from the corners, their verticality is checked with a building level. If the walls are uneven, then wooden blocks are placed in the right places. |
 | If a wooden crate is mounted on metal brackets, then they are first mounted on the wall, and then a bar is attached to them. The process is level controlled. |
 | Horizontal bars are installed, bordering the cladding from above and below. It is better to check horizontality with a water level (spirit level). These bars should be in the same plane with the corner ones. |
 | At a distance of 15-20 cm from the ends of the corner bars, a thick fishing line or cord is pulled from the top and bottom, which should be 3-5 mm from the surface of the bar (a self-tapping screw is inserted). He will set the plane for the installation of the entire lathing. |
 | The entire crate is mounted. The verticality is checked by the building level, and the plane is set along the cord. If necessary, blocks are placed under the crate. The fixing step is 50 cm. The interval for mineral wool is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation. For example, Rockwool slabs are 60 cm wide, which means 59 cm "in the light", and for expanded polystyrene boards and polyurethane foam - 60 cm. The crate framing windows and doors is also exposed in the same plane. |
 | Insulation is laid. Mineral wool slabs are laid from bottom to top, as tightly as possible to each other. The last plate is trimmed with a special knife and the assembly of the next row begins from the remaining part. This will ensure the dressing of the sutures. Narrow non-standard pieces near window and door openings and corners are cut and stacked last. |
 | Fastening mineral wool to walls is best done with special dowels with a wide head (fungi, umbrellas) of the appropriate length. To do this, a dowel is inserted into the pre-drilled hole until it stops, and then its central part is hammered. For one slab 600 * 1200 mm, at least 5 dowels are required (one in the center, and the rest 15 cm from the corners). It is allowed to fix two layers of mineral wool slabs at once with long dowels. |
 | Fastening of expanded polystyrene plates to wooden walls is done with dowels, and to brick or concrete walls - with a special adhesive and umbrella dowels. The calculation of the number of dowels is done similarly to mineral wool. Adjacent fastening with dowels at the joints of sheets is allowed. Laying is done from bottom to top. If there are gaps at the joints of the plates, they are blown out with polyurethane foam. |
 | Rolled insulation made of mineral or glass wool is unwound from top to bottom. The insulation is attached to the walls with dowels-umbrellas at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 square meter. The excess parts of the roll are cut off and used further. |
 | Polyurethane foam insulation is sprayed between the battens of the sheathing with a layer of the required thickness. After complete drying, the excess insulation is cut off with a sharp knife. The plane is checked by a rule or a cord. |
 | A hydro-windproof membrane is installed on top of the insulation. The canvases are fastened horizontally from bottom to top to the sheathing beams using a construction stapler with a pitch of no more than 20 cm with 10 mm staples. The overlap of adjacent canvases is 10 cm. The joints are additionally glued with reinforced tape. It is not necessary to cover polyurethane foam insulation and extruded polystyrene foam. |
 | On top of the hydro-windproof membrane, a lathing for siding is mounted on the bars of the lathing of the insulation. It will provide a ventilated gap between the insulation and the skin. For this, bars of 50 * 40 mm (50 * 30 mm are allowed) are attached to the insulation crate using self-tapping screws for wood with a pitch of not more than 40 cm. |
 | Installation of siding is carried out according to the recommendations of manufacturers. It is best to do this immediately after installing the insulation. |
Mineral wool prices
Mineral wool
Video: Insulating a house with Rockwool mineral wool
The peculiarity of the installation of two-layer insulation on a cross frame
The cross frame for siding is installed when it is necessary to make multi-layer insulation, for example, a reinforced concrete house with a wall thickness of 230 mm, built in the Moscow region, requires a mineral wool thickness of 150 mm. This can be achieved only by using 100 mm and 50 mm thick slabs, since 150 mm slabs are not produced.
With the insulation method described above, you will have to build a crate with a depth of 150 mm, which will require the use of a massive beam of 150 * 100 mm. The timber has 30 times higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool, therefore the effectiveness of such insulation is sharply reduced, but there is a very good way out of this situation - the use of a cross frame. How this method is implemented in practice is shown in the figure.
It is obvious that the use of a cross frame increases the thermal properties of insulation, such a structure is more reliable and durable, but also material-intensive. Let's describe the main features of the installation of the cross frame:
- The walls of the house to be insulated are marked. The first frame should not be mounted vertically, but horizontally. The distance between the bars of the first frame should be 1 cm less than mineral or glass wool slabs and exactly match the dimensions of the expanded polystyrene boards.
- The lower and upper horizontal beams of the frame are mounted. Levelness is checked with a water or laser level. The beams should lie in the same plane, as they will set the plane of the entire cladding of the house.
- A cord is pulled between the beams at the beginning and at the end, which will set the plane for the entire first crate.
- All the beams of the first horizontal lathing are mounted with self-tapping screws to a wooden wall or dowels to stone walls. The fixing step is no more than 50 cm.
- The first layer of insulation is laid horizontally between the beams. Expanded polystyrene plates are glued to stone walls with a special compound. The first layer is not fixed with disc dowels; this must be done after laying the second layer.
- In the future, the installation process of the frame is absolutely identical to that described above, only the bars of the vertical lathing are not attached to the walls, but to the first lathing using self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. The fixation of the insulation with the dowels-umbrellas is done immediately through two layers.
Installation of insulation under siding in a frameless way
The method of insulating under siding with a frameless method has become widespread. Some people mistakenly believe that the frame is completely absent, but this is not so, without it, the siding is not mounted. The fact is that the insulation is attached to the walls and it is not located between the sheathing beams. Warming in this way is possible when the walls of the house are flat and allow you to mount the insulation directly on them, for example, houses made of timber or plastered brick. Let's list the advantages of this method of insulation:
- With a frameless method, a layer of insulation completely covers the walls of the house, which affects the thermal performance.
- This method of insulation is less material-intensive.
- The insulation technology is much simpler, so it can be done independently.
The disadvantages of this method of insulation are:
- Presence of prepared smooth walls.
- Difficulty or even impossibility of implementing a two-layer insulation.
- Less mechanical strength of siding house cladding.
Consider the order of installation work for frameless insulation. For example, let's take thermal insulation with mineral wool slabs and a frame made of metal gypsum plasterboard profiles. Installation steps are presented in the table:
| Miniature | Description of the installation steps |
|---|---|
 | On the walls of the house prepared for finishing, the marking of the position of the future crate for siding is made. To do this, vertical lines are beaten off with a marking cord - the axes of the crate. The spacing is determined by the recommendations of the siding manufacturer (usually 60 cm). Also, the marking of the position of the lathing around the window and door openings is made. |
 | On the marked lines, the positions of the brackets are marked - straight U-shaped suspensions for drywall. Suspensions should be installed at the beginning and end of the sheathing profile, and the rest with an interval of no more than 60 cm. |
 | In the designated places, suspensions are mounted: on wooden walls using screws with a press washer, and on stone walls - with hammer-in dowels 6 * 40 or 8 * 60. Each suspension should have two screws (dowels). After installation, the suspension legs are immediately bent 90 ° so that they are perpendicular to the wall. |
 | Insulation plates are attached to the walls of the house according to the manufacturer's recommendations. In the places where the legs of the U-shaped suspensions are located, a neat cut of the slab is made with a sharp knife. Some rigid basalt wool slabs can be attached to stone walls using a special adhesive mixture. Each slab 600 * 1200 mm is additionally attached to the wall with four disc dowels of the corresponding length. |
 | A hydro-windproof membrane is attached to the mineral wool slabs with a protective layer inward (with the manufacturer's logo outward). For this, the edge of the membrane is fixed with two dowels, the membrane is unwound vertically from top to bottom and fixed in the center of each mineral wool slab with a disc dowel. All joints should be with an overlap of 10 cm. In places of U-shaped suspensions, neat cuts are made with a knife. |
 | All joints of the hydro-windproof membrane are glued with wide reinforced tape. |
 | The outer profiles of the lathing are mounted on each wall. For this, ceiling profiles for plasterboard PP 60 * 27 (CD 60 * 27) are used. The profile is pressed against the membrane and insulation (not too tightly) and is attached to the suspensions using sharp metal screws with a press washer (bugs, fleas, tacks). The suspension legs are bent to the side. During installation, the verticality should be controlled with a building level or a plumb line. |
 | A cord is pulled between the extreme profiles from above and below (as when installing a wooden lathing) to control the plane. |
 | The entire crate is mounted from PP 60 * 27 profiles, including framing window and door openings. During installation, verticality and flatness are controlled. |
 | According to the manufacturer's instructions, the siding is installed on the crate using self-tapping screws with a press washer. |
With the frameless method, it is not required to make a counter-lattice, which provides ventilation of the insulation. Metal profiles simultaneously serve as the basis for siding, fix the membrane and also create the necessary ventilation gap.
Conclusion
Summing up the article, it is quite appropriate to draw several conclusions:
- For insulation under siding, it is most preferable to use mineral wool slabs. This material combines excellent thermal insulation properties, non-combustibility, ease of installation, good vapor permeability, durability, environmental friendliness, biological stability and a reasonable price.
- When choosing a specific brand of insulation, it is better to trust well-known brands and buy only in trusted places.
- To insulate wooden houses from logs in one layer, the best way is a frame method of insulation with a wooden crate.
- For the insulation of houses from a bar or stone houses with plastered walls, a frameless method with a crate made of plasterboard profiles is more suitable.
- If the insulation is applied in two layers, then the best solution is a cross wooden frame.
- For mineral and glass wool, the use of a hydro-windproof membrane is mandatory!
- should be started immediately after the house has been insulated.
Heat loss through the walls of a building can range from 30 to 80%, depending on the material of the walls. When choosing a heater, you need to take this into account, and choose a heater with the lowest degree of thermal conductivity... The specific type of material will depend on two factors: climatic conditions and the material of the building walls.
Materials for insulation of external walls for siding
Types of heaters:
- Mineral wool insulation. They are made from metallurgical waste, silicates and other rocks. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.042 W / m * K. Minvata has good fire-fighting properties. The main disadvantage is high coefficient of water absorption(about 70%).
- EPPS(extruded polystyrene foam). Low thermal conductivity (0.03 W / m * K); water absorption does not exceed 2%; ease of installation. These advantages and the high density of the material (up to 40 kg / m3) provide it high thermal insulation properties. A significant drawback is the high degree of flammability.
- Expanded polystyrene suitable for insulation of foundations and rooms with high humidity.
- Styrofoam. It has a low level of thermal conductivity (0.035 W / m * K) and water absorption. The material contains many gas bubbles. The buyer can choose slabs of different thicknesses and densities. The disadvantage of styrofoam is that rodents love it.
- Polyurethane foam. Obtained by mixing two substances - polyol and isocyanate. Low thermal conductivity, good sound insulation, high density, low water absorption. Resistant to mold, decay, rodents and insects do not start in it. Its disadvantages: destroyed by UV; when attaching siding the integrity of the layer is violated, and this reduces the effectiveness of the material.
The first two types of insulation have better sound insulating properties than polystyrene and expanded polystyrene, but at the slightest wet lose their thermal insulation properties Therefore, it is better to mount mineral wool with special membranes. Polyfoam and EPSP during installation may require additional sound insulation.
When choosing between rolled and slab materials, the following should be taken into account: rolled mineral wool serves more efficiently on horizontal surfaces, does not fit well at the joints, and so that the dew point is not in the room, the material must be laid in two layers. Plate insulation does not have such disadvantages, therefore more often used for wall insulation.
The environmental friendliness of the material plays an important role. Here, basalt insulation, polystyrene and polyurethane foam wins.
What kind of insulation to choose for the facade?
The owners of timber, log and log houses appreciate unique properties of wood, its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity. When insulating a house, revealing it with siding, it is important not to lose these advantages and not increase the disadvantages (fire hazard, high degree of water absorption, insects).
From this point of view, PPU is perfect for a wooden house. The material has good vapor barrier, is applied in a thin layer and does not weigh down the walls of the building. Fire safety, resistance to temperature extremes. The microclimate inside the wooden house will be preserved.
For wooden structures, mineral wool and fiberglass are also popular because of their fire-fighting properties.
Brick houses
Extruded polystyrene foam and basalt insulation are recommended for brick houses due to ease of installation and soundproofing properties.
Foamed polyethylene with the addition of fire retardants, extinguishing additives is used to insulate brick houses. Lack of the need to involve installers.
Despite the indicated disadvantages of polystyrene, it is actively used in the insulation of brick houses for siding. The reason is simple - ease of installation, relative cheapness of material and environmental safety. For families with children and allergy sufferers, this is a great option.
Houses made of aerated concrete and foam blocks
When choosing a heater for aerated concrete, it must be borne in mind that blocks of this material are distinguished by high vapor permeability. The wrong choice of thermal insulation can only worsen the indoor climate and shorten the life of the home.
The vapor-proof material will disrupt gas exchange between the room and the environment.
Condensation will collect at the border of the wall-insulation and will moisten the wall. Aerated concrete will be covered with mold and will start to rot.
Mineral wool insulation, like aerated concrete, has a high vapor permeability. Such a "duet" will have a positive effect on the microclimate at home. Due to the ease of installation and relatively low cost, mineral wool is often used to insulate houses from aerated concrete.
Polyurethane foam is also gaining in popularity. For houses made of aerated concrete, this is the ideal option. The most effective way to use the spraying method- this way you avoid cold seams.
Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene have poor vapor permeability, therefore, it is necessary to use them to insulate houses from gas blocks in extreme cases.
Frame houses
For external insulation of frame houses, mineral wool is most often used (see photo). Experience shows that the price-quality ratio is the most acceptable. But the material is needed isolate from moisture and dew points. This is done using a vapor barrier and membrane film.
Despite the negative attitude of specialists towards polystyrene, homeowners very often use this material for insulation. Cheapness and the absence of the need for additional moisture, noise, and vapor barrier play a decisive role.
Insulation of frame polyurethane foam by spraying also has many advantages. For frame houses, as well as for brick, foam concrete, this is an excellent option.
Do you know how to make soundproofing walls? Read about it here.
How much does it cost to sheathe a house with siding?
The final cost of insulation and siding of the facade depends on the price of materials and the cost of work. The cheapest insulation is foam. The price of siding depends on the manufacturer, the material from which it is made.
We will calculate the approximate cost based on average prices and panel sizes. Imagine that you want to sheathe a house with a facade area of 63 sq. M. You will need the following materials:
- vinyl siding (3.85 x 0.231 m). 150 rubles × 80 pcs. = 12 thousand rubles;
- waterproofing film (50 m.) - from 1600 rubles;
- mineral wool at a price of 1500 rubles / cubic meter m in total, 9.45 cubic meters will be needed. m. 1500 × 9.45 = 15 120 rubles;
- consumables (screws, slats, corners, etc.) - up to 15 thousand rubles;
The total cost of finishing will be RUB 43 720
When using the services of professionals, expect an average of RUB 1,500 per sq. m. Of course, depending on the qualifications of the workers, the price in the price list can vary significantly.
Do-it-yourself cladding and insulation of the facade using the example of mineral wool
Consider the procedure for insulating walls with mineral wool and cladding with metal siding:
- Preparing the walls. We clean the facade from cement smudges, metal pins, communications, drainpipes and other things. We seal up cracks and chips with cement mortar and apply an antifungal coating to those areas where there is mold.
- Installation of horizontal battens. The step of the horizontal lathing is determined by the width of the thermal insulation boards with a deduction of 2 cm (to ensure the necessary density when laying the insulation). Use bars with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 50 mm.
- Laying insulation boards. We put plates between the beams. They will hold due to the reduced pitch of the sheathing. One edge folds over the bar, and the other folds in for a good fit.
- Waterproofing layer. We fasten the diffuse membrane with waterproofing properties to the bars with construction clips.
- Vertical lathing. This part of the lathing is fastened to the level. If there are irregularities, special linings can be made. Planks 25 mm thick are used here.
Siding installation:
- When inserting the siding into a special lock, do it smoothly, without pulling, until it clicks. If there was no click, then the element is not fixed.
- After fixing the profiles, fix the panels in the direction from the middle to the edges. Vinyl siding can be fastened with nails, screws, but always with galvanized hardware to avoid rusty streaks.
- The fasteners must enter the panels strictly vertically, with a 1 mm gap between the surface and the head.
- When the temperature changes, the panels will "walk", so there should be 5 - 8 mm gaps at the joints.
Durability and insulation service efficiency and cladding completely depends on the selected material and competently carried out installation. Coziness and warmth to your home!
What kind of insulation to use for siding?
A well-insulated house with the same foam and extruded polystyrene foam is the dream of almost every private homeowner. To do this, first of all, you should do insulation.
Choosing insulation for siding for a wooden house
Now on the construction market there is a wide range of materials with which you can insulate a house with your own hands, and then cover it with siding outside.
1 Choice of materials
Nowadays, many owners of wooden houses understand the insulation of walls from the outside as siding. This is not entirely true.
Covering the outside of wooden walls with siding is not enough to create an insulating barrier. There must be a special insulation under the siding.
It prevents heat dissipation from the room through the inner surface of wooden walls like foam and mineral wool. It is worth noting that you can do the insulation of a house and, in particular, its wooden walls without much hassle with your own hands.
Before finishing the wooden walls of the house begins, and siding will be installed outside, you need to decide what to sheathe the surface of the wooden walls and what kind of insulation you need to use for this. The most common materials used for finishing and insulation "under siding" are:
- Glass wool based materials;
- Extruded polystyrene foam;
- Foamed polyethylene;
- Expanded polystyrene.
Ordinary glass wool and its alternative derivatives have been the most demanded and widespread insulation for the walls of a wooden house for quite a long time, which can be easily placed with your own hands.
How to choose siding for a wooden house
Such insulation for the walls of the house, like Hitrock thermal insulation, has a rather low cost. Fiberglass is not capable of fire and moisture penetration, temperature drops are also not afraid of it.
If the cladding of the walls of the house is made using mineral wool, and the siding is mounted outside, then all the work will be quite inexpensive.
The cladding of glass wool walls of the house will significantly improve their heat and sound insulation characteristics, and the outer covering with siding will increase the aesthetic appeal.
You can also sheathe the surface of the walls with insulation based on basalt fibers. Finishing with such a heater will also cost the owner quite inexpensively.
Such a substance is distinguished by high quality indicators and an overestimated level of parameters such as heat capacity and environmental friendliness.
Polymeric insulation, like the Izospan D hydro and steam insulator, presented in the form of extruded polystyrene foam, contributes to the fact that, with its participation in the house insulation for siding, all work is carried out with minimal time costs.
On sale, expanded polystyrene is present in several modifications, the most common of which is in the form of plates with different size parameters.
Each of the varieties is distinguished by an increased degree of substance density and a special structure. It is also worth noting that the level of thermal conductivity of extruded polystyrene foam is quite low, even in the most severe frost, this material will keep the heat inside the house.
The service life of such a heater is more than 30 years. Foamed polyethylene is presented in the form of modified polyethylene, which is produced under high pressure.
It contains special additives and dyes that improve the quality characteristics of the thermal insulator.
How to insulate the outer walls of a wooden house with polyurethane foam
This material, like vermiculite insulation, exhibits high fire resistance qualities, and thanks to the inclusion of special inhibitors, fungal mold cannot develop on the surface.
The service life of the product reaches 70 years. This type of insulation is characterized by its small volume, which contributes to the preservation of the internal area of the insulated room. What material to choose for wall insulation for siding is up to you.
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Before insulating a wooden house outside for siding, in addition to the availability of the material itself, it is necessary to select the most suitable and optimal technology with an orientation towards which all subsequent work will be carried out.
Which one to give preference to should be determined in advance. If there are open-type areas in the house, then you need to additionally consider the issue of warming terraces or loggias.
The budgetary version of insulation is based on the fact that the simplest roll-type heaters are used for work.
They are fastened to the wall without the participation of a wooden or metal lathing, as is the case with the Izover Profi insulation. From above, this structure is equipped with a cladding.
In the case when interframe insulation is used, special rigid insulating plates are installed on the inner surface of the wall.
These insulation materials are able to fit tightly into special cells. They are fixed on the wall using mastic, screws and glue.
Regardless of which type of technology was chosen, the sequence of actions remains the same.
How to put insulation under siding
First, the lathing layer is installed. As a rule, the lathing is mounted using elements made using wood, however, if the load-bearing characteristics of the walls allow, then metal counterparts can be used.
In order to improve the parameters of thermal protection, it is possible to perform all the necessary work in a complex manner, the list may even include additional insulation of plastic windows.
Before using wooden bars for the lathing, they must first be thoroughly dried. Otherwise, a fair amount of skewing of the entire constructed mounting plane, on which the outer skin is located, can occur.
Sometimes, when installing a heat-insulating coating, several insulating layers are laid in succession in order to achieve a high heat-shielding index. When implementing a budget option, you can do without the use of a perforated waterproof membrane.
This product, like Isobel insulation, is capable of protecting wooden walls from the harmful effects of rain and snow with a high degree of efficiency. In addition, the membrane prevents the penetration of dust and provides the necessary level of vapor barrier.
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2.1 Details of the implementation of insulation methods
It is best to use panels made with vinyl as a material for siding. This is due to their affordable cost and high performance. In most cases, when laying an insulating layer under siding, one of the three most affordable methods is implemented. This could be:
- Frameless method;
- Interframe insulation;
- Cross-frame insulation.
External insulation of a wooden house
When implementing an insulation scheme for siding without using a frame, to complete the required amount of work, it is enough just to buy a thermal insulation material in the form of a roll.
The adhesive used for installation must have high adhesion rates. The insulation layer is glued to the wall by pressing it tightly.
A crate is applied on top, on the surface of which a separate siding panel is installed. When insulating with siding with an orientation to frame technology, the presence of heat-insulating plates with a high degree of rigidity is implied.
They are fixed using special cells. Frame technology makes it possible to carry out all the insulation work with sufficient quality and in the shortest possible time. When implementing the frame method, you can use all types of basalt insulation or mineral wool.
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2.2 Features of the battens and installation of the membrane
The parameter of the thickness of the lathing bars should correspond to the dimensions of the slab or roll of thermal insulation material.
In the case when the adjustment of the slabs in height and width will be performed efficiently, there will be no need to resort to additional fastening methods.
When installing the membrane, you need to take care of creating a ventilation gap with the participation of fasteners for additional beams.
After the cladding panels are fixed, all laborious types of work will end. The most well-proven system is the crossframe mounting system.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house for siding with a film
When implementing such a scheme, there is not the slightest likelihood that cold bridges will form between the insulation plates.
In order to avoid this, it is necessary to use two frame levels, on each of which the insulation layer is located perpendicularly. This wiring diagram is broken down into several successive steps. They consist of:
- Fastening to the surface of the wall lathing made of wood or metal;
- Laying of the selected thermal insulation material;
- Installation of the second frame on top of the previously installed first;
- Filling the cells in the second crate with insulation;
- Installation of a vapor barrier layer;
- Installation of siding panels.
It is important to remember that the lathing is fastened in a perpendicular direction in relation to each other.
When carrying out all installation work, sometimes it is impossible to do without special calculations. They will help determine what the thickness of the insulating layer should be and what kind of material you need to insulate the siding from the inside.
In order not to be mistaken, you need to carefully study the regulatory documentation - SNiPs, which are designed for a specific region, within which the above-described work will be carried out.
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2.3 Thermal insulation of a wooden house for siding (video)
What kind of outer cladding is needed to retain heat: insulation for the walls of the house outside for siding
Everyone loves warm evenings in a cozy home environment, but our country's climatic ranges are a serious test for our homes.
Old dilapidated houses or modern panel buildings need additional insulation, since they do not provide the necessary protection from weather conditions, and, accordingly, maintain the temperature level of comfort.
Insulation of the walls of the house for siding is the best way to keep warm.
Why do you need
Warming a house is an important stage in maintaining the microclimate in the house.
Having carried out a full-fledged wide-format insulation, you can reduce the cost of utilities and the amount of resources used. A very popular option now is to insulate the facade for siding.
When cladding with siding, a niche is formed between the house and the cladding, which is filled with thermal insulation material. Thanks to siding, the house receives a new exterior cladding that:
- protects walls and insulating material from corrosion, moisture, as well as external meteorological influences;
- additionally insulates the walls of the room;
- gives the house a new design;
- enhances the sound insulation of the room;
- is an easy and quick way to insulate.
A feature of this type of insulation is ease of installation. When insulating walls with siding, there is no need to change the architecture of the house, which means that your house will not turn into a landfill for construction waste.
The choice of thermal insulation material
Using a heat-saving material underneath the siding saves space and resources. A thin layer of thermal insulation replaces a thick layer of brick or cinder block, while halving the cost of thermal insulation. The most common materials for thermal insulation are:
- glass wool,
- stone wool,
- Styrofoam,
- expanded polystyrene.
Glass wool
The use of this material is the most common method of thermal insulation. It provides the necessary heat and moisture insulation, as well as a high level of ventilation and steam permeability.
Glass wool is the best heat retention option that is easy to install and maintenance-free.
The fiber structure of glass wool creates an additional air layer, which guarantees high-quality ventilation and additional sound insulation.
Thanks to this, glass wool insulation breathes under the siding, extending its useful life.
The use of glass wool is suitable for insulating a log house from the outside, as it will remove excess moisture from the wood during the drying process, and will also prevent condensation and further decay of the wood.
Stone wool
It is a fibrous substance produced from rocks. This material has enhanced thermal insulation and water-repellent properties. Mineral wool for siding is made from basalt volcanic rocks by melting at high temperature conditions. Thanks to this production method, stone wool is a fireproof and durable material that will reduce thermal loss at home and increase sound insulation characteristics.
Stone wool is a suitable option for siding a wooden house or log house. In addition, it is a moisture-resistant and vapor-proof insulation option, and is also completely environmentally friendly. It is convenient to work with stone wool: the blocks are easy to cut at any angle, and after installation they retain their desired shape for many years. Minvata is the best option for wall cladding outside as it prevents condensation and takes up little space.
Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene
Expanded foam and extruded polystyrene foam (styrodur) are chemical thermal insulation materials.
The main difference between expanded polystyrene and ordinary foam is the installation of insulation on a surface with high mechanical pressure.
Expanded polystyrene transfers loads better without losing its original qualities. It is more reasonable to use it for insulation of the foundation or basement of buildings, and also as a vibration pad.
To insulate the foundation or basement, it is recommended to install metal siding with polyurethane foam insulation. In other cases, it is better to use regular foam, which properly creates a protective shell, and it will cost significantly less.
Foamed polystyrene efficiently ventilates the surface, but does not have the proper water-repellent qualities. It also has a lower ignition temperature than other types of insulation, which makes it less fireproof.
Insulating the walls outside with a foam complex with siding is a budget option for insulating the facade of a house.
Using foam sheathing, it is necessary to carry out repair work and maintenance of the siding on time.
Requirements for thermal insulation materials
In order for the siding to fulfill not only an aesthetic role, but also its original qualities, the choice of heat-insulating materials should be taken with full responsibility. Insulation should:
- Be fireproof.
- Retain internal heat in the room.
- Have good ventilation and no condensation.
- Have a long service life.
- Be soundproof.
The price of cladding a house with siding with insulation depends on the size of the building, as well as the type and thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The optimum thickness of the insulating material should be 8-10 mm. The cost of mineral or glass wool is slightly more expensive than foamed foam blocks, but this overpayment will pay off over time.
Material advantages
The issue of thermal insulation is becoming more and more relevant on the territory of our country. The main types of thermal insulation are fiber insulation of natural nature: stone mineral wool and glass wool. The demand for this material is explained not only by its low thermal conductivity and durability, but also by its environmental friendliness.
During operation, fibrous insulation is not susceptible to rotting and damage by mold or fungus, therefore, the walls of your house will not emit pathogenic gases. Also, thanks to the natural base, mineral wool and glass wool can be applied to any surface. These thermal insulators are the best insulators for the walls of both a brick house, a panel high-rise building, and for a wooden frame.
Types of materials by composition
All heaters are subdivided into natural fibrous coatings and non-fibrous chemical foam blocks.
Natural fibrous coatings include glass, slag or basalt wool insulation.
For the manufacture of these types of insulation, natural resources are used, subjected to high thermal processing.
Such a manufacturing method allows to reduce the flammability characteristics and improve sound and heat insulation, as well as a long service life.
Non-fiber chemical foam blocks include:
- foamed polystyrene;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- foam and aerated concrete.
Among the advantages of these types of thermal insulation materials are low production costs, as well as effective thermal insulation. The disadvantages of such heaters include low vapor permeability, higher flammability of surfaces and structural complexity in the installation. Also, such heaters often require maintenance and have a short service life. The lack of "breathing" insulation and low fire safety makes foam blocks unsuitable for the insulation of wooden houses or log cabins.
What is best for the facade
The choice of insulation depends not only on its characteristics, but also on the type of material used in the construction of the house. In order to increase the quality of insulation and extend the service life of the cladding, it is necessary to choose the right heat insulator for the type of building.
Insulation of a brick house outside with expanded polystyrene for siding is an effective and economical way of insulation. A brick house initially has low heat loss, and the installation of expanded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene foam will reduce the loss of heat to a minimum. For greater efficiency, the brick house is insulated from the outside under the siding with mineral or glass wool. This method is more durable and effective, but it will cost a little more than insulation with expanded polystyrene. Since brick houses retain heat well, the choice of insulation depends mainly on the budget and the owner's taste preferences.
This material will strengthen the insulating layer and protect the walls from weeding out or the appearance of fungi. With the help of mineral or glass wool, the indicators of not only thermal protection, but also sound insulation will improve.
Insulation of a panel, frame or panel house outside for siding is more often a forced measure than an initiative of the owners. Modern houses do not always meet the required energy saving parameters; a lot of heat is emitted through joints and seams. When the apartment is located on the north side, constant drafts and dilapidation of the capital structure significantly deteriorate the thermal insulation qualities, therefore, it is recommended to choose only mineral wool for insulation. It provides the best thermal insulation and has a long service life.
Do-it-yourself facade cladding
You can sheathe the house with siding yourself. First, you need to calculate the amount of required thermal insulation. Having measured the area of the walls, you need to choose the thickness of the heat-saving field. To reduce heat loss, a layer with a thickness of 8-10 mm is required, however, if funds permit, the thickness of the insulation can be increased to 15 mm.
After installing the insulation, it is necessary to mount the protective layer. Siding sheathing will protect the thermal insulation layer from meteorological factors and extend the life of the insulation. Installation of insulation under metal siding or under vinyl sheathing is very popular.
Chemical components of the material and microscopic dust can cause an allergic reaction or respiratory tract disease. After work, be sure to take a warm shower and change your clothes!
Installation procedure
The beginning of work begins with the preparation of the outer base of the walls. The surface must be leveled: remove all roughness, pits and bulges of the wall relief.
The coating is processed with a stiff metal brush and then primed. It is recommended to carry out this work in several steps, apply a layer of antibacterial coating.
The insulation is cut into even pieces of the required length and installed on the surface to be prepared using a special glue or putty.
The adhesive base must be applied with a corrugated or combed trowel evenly over all surfaces. It is recommended to glue the heat-insulating layer starting from the bottom, going up with pressing products.
Insulation plates must be tightly joined to each other, and the cracks formed must be sealed with polyurethane foam. To strengthen the structure, the insulation can be reinforced with dowels around the perimeter of the cut pieces.
After fixing the insulation, a protective layer of vinyl or soffit sheathing is installed. Cladding and insulation of the facade for siding should be carried out only in dry weather.
How to avoid mistakes
To do this, spread it on a dry, flat surface and leave for 10-25 minutes. The insulation should smooth out and slightly increase in thickness.
Any insulating material must be protected from moisture.
After getting wet, it can lose its thermal insulation qualities, and when wet insulation is installed under the siding, condensation forms, destroying the skin and contributing to the appearance of fungi and mold.
Insulated siding is the most effective and economical way to insulate a room. Sheathing has many advantages and will keep your home warm for years to come. This is a great way to create warmth and coziness in your home for the whole family!
How to choose insulation for the walls of the house outside for siding - a general guide
One of the main difficulties in the construction of a private house, at the stage of exterior decoration of a building for siding, is the choice of a suitable insulation. When choosing a high-quality insulation for the walls of the house outside for siding, it is necessary to take into account the environmental friendliness of the material.
Also, when deciding the issue, several important points should be taken into account:
- Price
- Thermal insulation properties
- Ease of working with the material
- disadvantages
Insulation for walls under siding
Siding belongs to the category of so-called "ventilated facades". Consequently, it must allow air to pass well to the walls of the building and create conditions for the appearance of condensation and moisture, which often leads to the "infection" of the building with fungus. Similar requirements apply to the insulation used for the manufacture of the heat-insulating layer.
Relatively recently, large suppliers of building materials were asked what types of insulation are in high demand. The results made it possible to identify three main types of thermal insulation used when working with siding: foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool. What are the advantages and disadvantages of these materials?
Wall insulation with foam
Polyfoam is one of the most widely used insulation materials. This is facilitated by the low cost and high thermal insulation characteristics. It is worth considering this thermal insulation material, taking into account the four important points indicated at the beginning of the article.
- Price. Polyfoam is one of the cheapest materials. To work with it, there is no need to purchase additional means of protection. The cost of thermal insulation is somewhat increased by the fact that the foam is mounted on special glue and fixed with "fungi" - dowels, which will need to be purchased separately.
- Thermal insulation properties. In terms of its insulating characteristics, polystyrene is inferior to both mineral wool and extradited polystyrene.
- Ease of operation. To mount the plates, it is enough to glue them on a special glue. It is a little inconvenient that the foam has no locks at the joints. Therefore, the gaps between the plates will need to be blown out with polyurethane foam.
- Disadvantages. Polyfoam is a rather brittle material that breaks easily. Another significant disadvantage is the exposure of the plates to ultraviolet radiation. Radiation penetrates the siding. After a while, the foam will begin to deform. To prevent this, it is necessary to cover the top of the plate with a layer of glue.
Wall insulation with expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene is preferred by construction companies carrying out the construction of multi-storey buildings. The main advantage of this material is its high heat and sound insulation characteristics.
- Price. Approximately 2 times more expensive than Styrofoam. During installation, fixing with dowels is also required.
- Thermal insulation characteristics. Extruded polystyrene foam surpasses foam and mineral wool in all criteria. The manufacturer produces plates with a special lock to avoid cold bridges at the joints, which is the case with foam. Expanded polystyrene is intended for external insulation without the need to apply a decorative top layer, therefore it is optimal to use it for siding.
- Ease of operation. Styrofoam is easy to install. You can use a regular fine-toothed hacksaw to cut the slabs. Polystyrene plates are fixed faster than polystyrene, due to special locks at the joints.
- Disadvantages. Material releases toxic gas when burned. When working, one should be guided by the norms specified in GOST 15588-86. In particular, direct contact of polystyrene foam with living quarters is not allowed. Another disadvantage can be considered that if the technological process is not followed during installation, condensation and fungus may appear on the walls, which will be quite problematic to remove.
Expanded polystyrene is a good material, optimally suitable for laying under siding, but having certain disadvantages associated with the environmental friendliness of the thermal insulation material.
Choosing a heating radiator for your home
Wall insulation with mineral wool
Mineral insulation is especially popular in private construction. Like any other thermal insulation, it has its own advantages and disadvantages.
- Price. Pricing policy depends on the manufacturer's firm, but in general, mineral insulation is cheaper than extruded polystyrene, but more expensive than polystyrene. During installation, the use of adhesives is not required (with the exception of mineral boards).
Mineral wool is the best option for private construction. Some inconvenience during installation work is fully compensated for by the duration of operation, the incombustibility of the material, as well as its resistance to deformation.
The choice of insulation for siding is ultimately taken by the owner of the house on his own, but when making a decision, it is necessary to take into account the thermal insulation characteristics, environmental friendliness and other nuances.
What insulation is most optimal for insulating the walls of the house outside under the siding with your own hands
Siding is a cladding material that allows you to create a completely new look for a house without affecting any structural elements.
With a relatively low cost and the ability to significantly save money by installing it yourself, siding is one of the most economical materials, the effect of which is much higher than the costs incurred.
The material provides a "ventilated facade" cladding, in which the walls and wall cake materials are able to "breathe", i.e. unimpeded removal of water vapor from wall materials is ensured.
The cladding panels, by themselves, are not vapor-permeable, thanks to the installation technology, do not interfere with the escape of steam and are reliable protection for wall elements. This property is most valuable when using external insulation, which requires the organization of high-quality ventilation of the material.
Why do you need to insulate?
Warming is a procedure aimed at conserving the thermal energy of a house. From the standpoint of the comfort of living, this is where the functions of insulation end, but from a physical point of view, the situation is much more complicated.
The composition of the inner atmosphere of a residential building contains an excess of water vapor.... It is generated from the use of heaters while cooking, but the main source of steam is human breath.
The vapor in the air has a certain elasticity, which creates the so-called. partial pressure, due to which there is a gradual squeezing out of steam through the wall materials. Failure to withdraw will cause a strong increase in internal humidity and condensation on cold surfaces.
With insufficient wall thickness (or improperly selected material), condensation will begin to collect on the surface of the walls or inside their thickness. When the outside temperature drops, the accumulated moisture freezes, increases in size and tears apart the walls from the inside, which threatens to be destroyed.
Installation of external insulation reduces heat loss, which makes the walls warm enough. The steam passing through them does not condense and does not cause wetting. The risk of destruction of materials is eliminated, the structure of the house is out of danger.
The main types of insulation for siding and their brief description
The specifics of installing siding requires the use of insulation that can maintain its shape. Therefore, bulk materials (expanded clay, bulk ecowool, etc.) disappear immediately - it is difficult to use them on vertical surfaces and requires the installation of additional structures.
The best option is insulation for the walls of the house outside under the slab or roll siding, which allows you to install it on the walls without any problems.
The most popular insulation materials are:
- Styrofoam. The material is cheap, keeps its shape perfectly, and is easy to work with. It is lightweight and does not load the walls. The downside of foam is its almost complete impermeability to water vapor, which prevents steam from escaping from the walls and causes undesirable processes - wetting, corrosion of metal elements, etc.
- Extruded polystyrene foam. This is a type of foam, but with more intense properties - stiffness, density, strength and complete impermeability to moisture or steam - all increased significantly in comparison with foam. As a first-class waterproofing agent, EPPS is practically unsuitable for external insulation, since it traps moisture inside walls with inevitable negative consequences. In addition, it is much more expensive than polystyrene and is disadvantageous from an economic point of view.
- Minvata. There are several varieties of this material, and they are all excellent outdoor insulation. They have good heat-saving properties, high vapor permeability, low weight and sufficient density to hold their shape without a rigid frame. The disadvantage of this material is its ability to swell, leading to an almost complete loss of working qualities. The solution to the problem is the use of high-quality waterproofing against water ingress from the outside.
What insulation is the most optimal
There is a rule that determines the ratio of the properties of wall materials, according to which vapor permeability should increase from the inside out. That is, the vapor permeability of the first inner layer (for example, plaster) should be the highest, and that of the last layer (in our case, the insulation) - the lowest, which ensures that there are no obstacles to steam output.
If this rule is not followed, moisture gradually accumulates at the border of two layers, causing irreversible consequences. Their danger is that the process is very slow and imperceptible - it is visually noticeable only when the walls are already very wet.
From this point of view, mineral wool becomes the most successful material for external insulation. Its vapor permeability allows installation on any wall material - there will be no problems with the output.
The exactingness of mineral wool for waterproofing does not cause any special problems - a layer of waterproofing membrane is used that allows moisture to pass in one direction. The only important point is the error-free installation of the film with the right side inward..
Types of lathing and which one is most optimal for siding and mineral wool
Sheathing is a system of planks that supports siding panels. For horizontal panels, the planks must be vertical and vice versa.... The distance between them - the step of the lathing - is made in such a way as to ensure a strong fastening of the panels and the stability of the material in strong winds.
Usually it is about 60 cm, but in each case, the climatic and weather conditions of the region should be taken into account.
Initially, wooden blocks (for wooden houses) were used as the material for the lathing. In the presence of insulation, the design of the wooden lathing becomes more complicated, since first you have to install the first layer of bars, between which the insulation plates are laid, and on top of it - the second, bearing layer of the counter-lattice in the transverse direction.
Such a design is rather difficult to install - it is necessary to ensure the flat plane of the strips. In addition, wood is an unstable material, prone to warping, change in shape and size.
The appearance of metal guides for gypsum board made it possible to almost completely solve the problem. They have a straight calibrated surface, the same and unchanged dimensions, the galvanized layer reliably protects against corrosion. In addition, during installation, the metal rails are much easier to adjust - the straight hangers on which the strips are attached make it easy to change the installation depth.
The use of metal guides allows you to do with one layer of lathing. Direct suspensions are installed in advance along the lines of the joints of the insulation plates, after the installation of which their petals turn out to be outside and the lathing strips are attached to them. It turns out a denser installation of insulation and regular installation of the battens in one layer, which saves time and money.
Installation of the selected type of lathing
The lathing is installed on a prepared wall surface - cleaned of dirt and dust, cracks and dents in the surface must be putty.
Consider the most difficult option - two layers of lathing:
- The first layer is placed horizontally. The distance between the planks is chosen in such a way that it is possible to install insulation plates without adjusting in width.
- The height of the plank above the wall should correspond to the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the installation of the counter grill will be difficult.
- First, the extreme strips are attached (in our case, the upper and lower ones). Their position is carefully displayed horizontally, the height above the wall is checked.
- Then, along the stretched cords, the remaining strips are installed with the desired pitch.
- After installing the insulation, the installation of the second layer begins - the counter-lattice. It mounts laterally - vertically.
- First, the corner strips are attached and the window and door openings are made out. It should be remembered that corners and openings require a double layer of planks to properly attach the siding elements.
- After that, all other strips are installed.
You can do the cladding of the house with siding with insulation with your own hands.
Installation of vapor barrier and why is it needed
The insulation must not be allowed to get wet. From this, all the useful qualities of the material are almost completely lost; instead of retaining heat, its active leakage begins. Therefore, the surface of the mineral wool must be reliably protected from moisture penetration into it.
However, some steam will inevitably penetrate the material. In order to exclude the accumulation of steam inside the insulation and ensure its output, a vapor barrier membrane is used - a material that allows steam to escape from the inside, but prevents it from entering from the outside. This cutoff allows you to keep the mineral wool in a dry and working condition.
Wall insulation technology with mineral wool
The installation of mineral wool is carried out on the prepared surface of the walls, between the pre-strengthened battens of the crate. Mineral wool slabs are fastened tightly between the planks on a layer of special glue and, at the same time, on special dowels with wide caps - fungi. There should not be any gaps or cracks, this must be monitored, the resulting cavities should be immediately filled with polyurethane foam.
Thus, the installation technology is as follows:
- Applying a layer of glue.
- Installation of mineral wool slabs on glue.
- A hole is made in the mineral wool and, at the same time, in the wall. A dowel is installed in it and the plate is pressed against the wall by the fungus.
- Thus, all mineral wool slabs are installed.
- Particular attention is paid to the design of window and door openings... All sections of the slopes should be carefully covered with material, the gaps that appear are filled with polyurethane foam.
- After installing the insulation, they once again inspect the entire area of the wall, eliminate the identified deficiencies
Mineral wool waterproofing
Mineral wool is a hygroscopic material. From swelling, all of its working properties are lost, which should not be allowed. Therefore, before installing the counter-lattice, you should install a cut-off - a layer of a waterproof membrane. This material tends to pass steam in one direction, but absolutely not to pass moisture in any form in the opposite direction.
The waterproofing is installed in horizontal strips from the bottom. The material is rolled, therefore it is possible to exclude joints along the length. The subsequent rows are overlapped (10-12 cm), the joints are glued with special tape. Thus, the entire area of the walls, the slopes of the openings is covered.
There should be no holes or gaps in the film.... Make sure that the film is installed in the correct direction.
Siding installation
Installation of siding begins immediately after installing the counter-grill. A straight horizontal line is bounced from below, denoting the bottom edge of the siding.
- The starting bar is set along this line.
- After that, all corners are made out - external, internal, window or doorways.
- The design of window or doorways can be done in different ways, based on the depth of the slopes. Regular platbands, universal planks or, if the depth exceeds 20 cm, a set of siding panels can be used.
- After all the corner elements are installed and the openings are designed, they begin to install the siding panels. The first row is mounted on the starting plate, snapped into the lock and fixed from above with self-tapping screws.
Important! Do not tightly tighten the screws all the way! The material must have a free path for movement during thermal expansion.
- All subsequent rows of siding are installed in the same way. Longitudinal joining of panels is done either with H-panels, which must be installed together with corner and window elements, or with an overlap of 2.5 cm.
- The completion of the canvas is carried out using a finishing strip, which is mounted together with the last row of panels. They simply slip under the curl of the plank, which locks them in place and prevents water from getting under the sheathing.
Useful video
In this video, you will learn how to insulate walls for siding:
Conclusion
Installing insulation under siding solves a lot of important problems. It eliminates heat loss, protects the wall material from destruction, and reduces the cost of heating the house. These functions give reason to consider insulation as the most important process, and the costs for it are quite justified.
The main task is to exclude the formation of gaps between the slabs of the material and completely exclude the penetration of water into the mineral wool, and then the service of the wall cake will be long and flawless.
With all the simplicity and low cost of exterior decoration, siding is also an opportunity to increase the thermal protection of a building. Insulation for siding saves the interior space of the house, is relatively cheap and does not need additional finishing.
Any old house is suitable for siding. The main thing is the integrity of the external structures, which will reliably fix the finishing material. The crate is stuffed with insulation for the installation of the structure. Depending on the production method, each of the heaters has its own advantages and disadvantages. But there are requirements that are common to any insulation:
- First and foremost is thermal conductivity. It should be minimal. At the heart of most modern heaters is the principle of foam, where the inner space of the material is filled with air. This is done because air is a substance that has the lowest thermal conductivity among all materials discovered to date.
- The second most important is vapor permeability. Despite the fact that vapor permeability worsens the thermal insulation properties of the insulation, without the ability to pass steam through the fence, the ventilation of the facade will also disappear. In practice, this means the formation of mold and mildew indoors and under the second siding façade. From the inside, the mold will poison the air with its spores, and from the outside, such problems can lead to corrosion of the frame to which the siding sheets are attached.
- Biological stability. Any insulation must be unsuitable for the existence of pests and rodents in it. To increase this quality, heaters are treated with various kinds of antiseptics.
- Ease of installation. This property reduces labor costs, and when working as a specialist, it also significantly saves money.
- Environmental friendliness. Construction reality is that any insulation should be as cheap as possible. Construction is already very expensive. And the use of expensive insulation can even lead the organizer of the construction to ruin. Therefore, in pursuit of customers, manufacturers come up with more and more new materials. Unfortunately, most of them emit harmful substances during heating, installation or during operation. This leads to the complication of installation, which means an increase in capital costs, so it is far from the fact that it will be possible to save something. Better to use sustainable materials.
- Price. In fact, the choice of insulation is primarily dictated by the price. Insulation must be selected after purchasing the rest of the building structures. Therefore, most of the choice should be cut off the construction budget and only then, you need to choose from options that are suitable for the price.
Walls must be prepared before insulation. To do this, they need to be carefully examined for all kinds of mold and mildew formation. No wall alignment is required, it is enough to treat the surface with an antiseptic
Types of insulation for siding and their characteristics
Let's take a closer look at each of the options for insulation for siding. Let's talk about the pros and cons of each of the options in order to understand which insulation is suitable for a specific construction situation. The main thing to remember is that there are no ideal materials. There are only those that are suitable at a given time for a specific builder or owner.
Mineral wool heaters
Mineral wool insulation is the most popular material for insulation under siding, and indeed for any insulation in principle. Available in slabs and rolls. It is better to use slabs for laying under siding. It is more convenient to put them in a frame than rolls.
Today, mineral wool insulation is presented in three types:
- Rock mineral wool. This is the best option because it contains almost no harmful substances and does not hurt your hands. Rock mineral wool is made from crushed basalt or silicate rocks. The only problem in terms of environmental friendliness arises when opening the package with the plates with a knife. The fact is that at this moment the pressed plates straighten, some fibers break and throw a large amount of stone dust into the air. This can negatively affect the respiratory tract of a person, therefore it is better to work with a respirator. Plates are produced soft, rigid and semi-rigid. Each of the options is good in its own way. But it is easier to lay rigid slabs, so it is better to use them for siding.
- Slag mineral wool. This cotton wool is made from waste from the metal industry. It is not suitable for laying under siding, since it does not meet the requirements of low hygroscopicity. This type of mineral wool picks up water quickly, so it is best not to use it to insulate the siding.
- Glass mineral wool. For a long time this type of insulation was the only one available to a wide segment of homeowners. Therefore, in old buildings, glass mineral wool was used everywhere: floors, walls, pipelines and floors were insulated with it. Today, it is significantly inferior to mineral wool for a number of reasons. First of all, this is the difficulty of installation. Installation can only be carried out in a suit, gloves and a respirator. Glass dust, which is constantly emitted during the installation process, easily penetrates the skin, settles on the mucous membranes and injures the respiratory tract. At the same time, the wool itself is quite resilient and elastic. If not for the constant emission of dust, then glass wool would be a worthy competitor to basalt wool. Separately, it is necessary to also note a rather high hygroscopicity, less than that of slag mineral wool, but greater than that of basalt. At the same time, glass wool tends to shrink, that is, after 10 years, glass wool will lose most of its thermal insulation properties, and it will be desirable to change the insulation of the house.
Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene insulation is represented by polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam or EPS. Polyfoam is light enough, easy to install and has good heat-shielding properties, is not afraid of water and is slightly susceptible to rodent penetration. Due to its nature, the foam does not rot and is slightly susceptible to fungal attack.
However, almost all positive properties are overlapped by negative characteristics, the first of which is not environmental friendliness. The problem is that when the foam burns, it begins to release substances harmful to the human body. This can lead to poisoning and reduce the chances of escape in a fire. In addition, the foam is easily subject to mechanical stress, but this is not critical, since the insulation should not withstand heavy physical exertion.
Expanded polystyrene insulation - one of the types. heaters for siding Extruded polystyrene foam is several times better than polystyrene foam. It is a dense material with a fairly good sound-absorbing effect. Insulation has practically zero ability to absorb moisture, but at the same time does not allow the wall to "breathe". That is, you will have to leave a gap between the insulation and the house to improve vapor permeability. This material still emits harmful substances when heated and burned.
Blown Heaters
Blown insulation is the best that the modern construction market can offer for insulating houses for siding. Ecowool in a liquid state is supplied to the wall under pressure using a special device. Thus, a seamless insulation of the house is obtained with one monolithic cover. In practice, this means that there will be no loss of cold in the places where the frame lines pass, as it happens with other heaters.
But this material has a high price. In addition, it will not be possible to install ecowool on your own. All work is carried out under high pressure and with special equipment. It is unrealistic to insulate the house with ecowool without special skills.
Criterias of choice
The main selection criterion is the price and free time. If the construction budget allows, then ecowool is the best choice. This is especially true for wooden houses, since the seamless method allows you to close the smallest cracks.
On the other hand, you can independently insulate the building with basalt wool, the difference will be insignificant, and you will get a good amount of savings. Therefore, in matters of insulation, two factors are always important: money and free time.
It is imperative to pay attention to vapor permeability. The seller can easily describe this property as both negative and positive. Moreover, in any of the judgments, he will be right. Nevertheless, vapor permeability is necessary and it is better to choose materials that are able to "breathe".
Insulation options depending on the material of the object
In fact, there are no special differences in the insulation of houses. The problem is that foam blocks and gas blocks need reinforced insulation, and, for example, a brick itself has good thermal insulation characteristics.
For a brick house
A combination of brick and foam is considered a classic of construction. Mineral wool is also a viable option, but if styrofoam works, why spend money on something else? The installation of the foam is quite simple, and its position between the siding and the brick minimizes the risk of fire.
For a home made of foam blocks and aerated concrete
For foam blocks and aerated concrete, it is better to use basalt mineral wool. It is quite simple to install, but at the same time it is able to neutralize the low heat-shielding properties of a structural material.
For a wooden house
For a wooden house, ecowool would be an ideal option. Any other insulation will have too large gaps between the insulation itself and the siding. Therefore, ecowool filling any gaps will be an excellent solution for owners of private houses.
Ecowool - insulation under siding for a wooden house Insulation installation technology for siding
There is nothing complicated in installing insulation under siding:
- The walls are checked for the presence of fungus
- The frame is installed: wooden or metal. A wooden frame is better suited for a wooden house, but the slats and boards must be treated with an antiseptic.
- Under the slab insulation, a counter-lattice must be performed, which is filled with insulation.
- After that, siding plates are rigidly attached from above.
As you can see, there is nothing difficult in installing insulation under siding. The main thing is to choose the right material and securely fasten the panels of the siding itself.
A frequent question about whether it is necessary to insulate your house for siding does not have a definite answer. It's all about the huge number of nuances and technical parameters of the house, which should be taken into account in order to accurately answer this question.
So, for example, insulating your house for seasonal living under siding in most cases is not required, which is obvious. Another thing is the insulation of your own house, with permanent residence, under siding.
In such cases, experts not only recommend insulating siding, but categorically insist on it. And there are reasons for this, which should be sorted out by each owner of the house, which is thinking about insulating it under the siding.
1 The need for insulation under siding
In the design of each house that is built for living, a special section on the so-called "heating technology" is usually included. This section contains information about what climatic features are present at the place of construction of the house, what is the thermal conductivity of materials that were used in the construction of the building, as well as many other minor details.
And this section of design is really important, since it will play a key role in the future in what microclimate will be maintained in the building, and to what extent the building will be able to withstand weather “surprises”.
However, it should be borne in mind that houses in the form of summer cottages, where living in the winter period is simply not provided, are not analyzed for heat engineering features and other similar nuances during design.
There is simply no need to do this. Here everything depends entirely on the wishes of the owners of the building, and if living in such a building is comfortable in the summer or spring season, then it is simply inappropriate to carry out insulation for siding.
But for year-round living, it is simply necessary to have such a section, and all the details of the building, which is especially important for a brick building, must be entered there and then analyzed for the subsequent effective installation of insulation under the siding.
2 The choice of insulation for a brick house
The question of what kind of insulation to use for thermal insulation under siding is more than relevant and serious. The current market for thermal insulation systems is simply crammed with various options, and each insulation, of their huge variety, has its own advantages. There are the following materials that are relevant for insulation under siding:
- Insulation with non-combustible mineral wool;
- Insulation outside with expanded polystyrene ();
- Foamed polyurethanes for external thermal insulation;
- Classic styrofoam for brick buildings and much more.
When choosing insulation for siding, one should not look at its advertising representations, the best insulation will be only one that has a small thermal conductivity index, which will not decrease over time.
In addition, insulation should be chosen environmentally friendly, capable of resisting fungal and bacterial invasions (to be protected from them). You should consider in more detail the most suitable insulation options for wall siding for brick buildings.
The first to consider is fiberglass insulation. This insulation for walls positions itself as the most fireproof heat-insulating material of all available.
Indeed, in terms of this parameter, it is close only to mineral wool, while other heaters are clearly inferior. This insulation cladding is usually used for wooden buildings, but it also works well for brick.
Basalt insulation is also called "mineral wool". This insulation cladding, like fiberglass cladding, is best suited for timber structures due to its increased fire resistance.
However, it can also be used under a brick, taking into account at least the fact that, in addition to thermal insulation, mineral wool also creates sound insulation. Installation of this material on a brick is extremely simple and can be performed even without prior technical training.
Extruded polystyrene foam is simply molten polystyrene, which, after remelting, is converted into extrusion. Created in the fifties of the last century, expanded polystyrene and now remains an actual heat-insulating material for brick.
Its installation under siding walls can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. Which is undoubtedly a huge plus.
Foamed polyethylene is produced using composites based on ordinary high pressure polyethylene. In the process of producing this material under the brick, fire retardants, various extinguishing additives and dyes are added to it.
Its installation under walls most often requires the involvement of specialists, however, installation can be done on your own, which, however, is not recommended. This thermal insulation is ideal for wooden buildings and under bricks.
Polystyrene foam is, in fact, ordinary foam with certain modifications. This modern brick-like thermal insulation material is environmentally friendly, which is undoubtedly especially important for its use in houses with children living in it.
Installation of this material under a brick is usually carried out with the assistance of specialists, since foam plastic is, under any circumstances, a potentially dangerous source of fire.
Therefore, experts should calculate where and how this thermal insulation material should be installed, guided by the requirements of fire safety.
Overall, this is the most attractive option for a brick building. Polyfoam is a material that looks like a continuous porous structure, consisting of many non-communicating cells.
Due to its low density and relatively high thermal and sound insulation characteristics, this material is almost unanimously recommended by the overwhelming majority of experts in the field of insulating brick houses under siding.
The advantages of foam are also that it is very convenient to use, it is easy to move it from place to place, store it or cut it as if it were. Polyfoam has increased resistance to decay processes and does not create a breeding ground for pathogenic microorganisms on its structure, which is especially important for houses where children or allergy sufferers live.
2.1 Phased insulation of a brick house
This step-by-step instruction can only be used for insulating the walls of brick buildings from the outside, as well as for external facades made of timber or logs. Installation of insulation outside on the walls for a brick building looks like this:
- The first step is to install the vertical lathing with a step of 30 centimeters. Installation of the lathing on the facade is carried out using dowels;
- Insulation should be placed in the lattice produced. In this case, any possible insulation is suitable (mineral wool, classic foam, polyurethane, and so on);
- Now it is necessary to cover the insulation put in the lattice of a certain type with a special hydro-windproof agent (any means available on the construction market will do);
- Next, you should put the crate on the hydro-windproof film with a step of 30 centimeters.