Insulation for the outside walls of the house. Insulation of the house from the outside: selection of materials, main standards and installation methods. Requirements for outdoor insulation for walls

Arrangement of external thermal insulation allows you to obtain higher efficiency indicators than the same measures carried out on the inside of the premises. Insulation is able not only to retain heat in the house, but also to serve as protection for walls from atmospheric precipitation, mechanical damage, wind erosion, which has a positive effect on the operational properties of the building.

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

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For the installation of insulation, you do not need special knowledge and special professional skills. Almost every homeowner will be able to cope with this task independently. In order for the work to be of high quality, you need to find out what types of insulation there are for the walls outside, as well as familiarize yourself with the nuances of their installation.

Requirements for outdoor insulation

The operating conditions of the insulation inside and outside the house are completely different, but this does not mean that it is necessary to use different types of materials for external and internal thermal insulation. Another thing is important - when choosing a heater, you should pay attention to the presence of the following fundamental characteristics:

high degree of resistance to shrinkage;
minimal susceptibility to mechanical damage;
immunity to the destructive action of ultraviolet radiation;
long operational life;
simple and quick installation;
unattractiveness to rats and mice;
high resistance to decay processes.

If you plan to insulate a wooden residential building, pay attention to the vapor transmission characteristics of the material, which will allow the walls to "breathe". Typically, the materials used for finishing the front of the house are designed for long-term service. In this regard, annually dismantling them in order to inspect the current state of the heat insulator will be too laborious and not always justified. At the same time, when caking and pressing the insulation, its properties will be significantly impaired. The material can undergo rotting processes, lose its integrity or become a victim of rodents or insects. In this case, its replacement will be absolutely necessary. Therefore, it is so important that the material that you have chosen for thermal insulation fully fits the description given above.

Why do walls need to be insulated from the outside?

The main difference between the method of insulating buildings from the side of the front part from the arrangement of internal thermal insulation is that when the second method is implemented, the air inside the room does not have the ability to warm up the building. In the cold season, drops of condensation form on the cold surface of the wall. Insulation does not allow this moisture to evaporate, which is why mold and fungus appear between the wall and the heat insulator, gradually destroying the wall. A couple of years after arranging such insulation, a persistent smell of dampness is felt in the house, which cannot be removed by ventilation.

If the walls are insulated from the outside of the building, the situation takes a completely opposite turn. Even during severe frosts, the surface of the wall remains sufficiently warm and dry. The insulation does not allow the walls to cool down, and cold air does not penetrate into the room, which contributes to the loss of condensation. This is the main reason why experts recommend using the facade insulation method.

The material for building the house in this case is not decisive. It can be wood, brick, or a monolithic concrete structure. For each of them, a selection of insulation is possible, which will keep the dwelling from the penetration of cold, moisture and wind loads. Such events are of particular relevance for old buildings, since such houses are more likely than others to freeze through in winter. External insulation is also important for country houses, which are used mainly for seasonal living. After winter, the temperature inside the insulated summer cottage will be noticeably higher with a low level of humidity.

To choose a thermal insulation material correctly, it is worth considering a number of factors that can have a significant impact on the final quality of work:

The current state of the foundation and load-bearing walls. If the house was built a long time ago, and the first signs of destruction of the foundation are visible, it is better not to use structures that can increase the level of load on the base. It is better to use materials that are lightweight and durable, fixed to a layer of glue without lathing.
Features of the structure of the structure. The easiest heaters to work with are mineral wool and foam. They can be easily cut according to the required dimensions in order to insulate the walls decorated with various decorative elements with high quality.
Non-susceptibility to the appearance of rats, mice and insects in the insulation layer. The situation when rodents make themselves shelters under a layer of thermal insulation is very common. In order to avoid difficulties, insulation in such areas is usually carried out using bulk insulation. Animals do not start in expanded clay and ecowool.

Such factors as the cost of the insulation, the nuances of its installation, the material for building the walls, environmental friendliness, fire safety, etc. must be taken into account without fail.

Thermal insulation materials for external wall insulation

The building materials market offers a wide range of products for insulating building walls from the façade side. Below are the groups of the most common heat insulators:

cotton wool from various types of raw materials;
insulation based on polystyrene;
thermal insulation made of polyurethane foam;
other varieties.

Below we will consider the key features of thermal protection of each type, because the choice of insulation in each case may be different.

Basalt wool

The initial raw material for its production is waste from the processing of igneous rocks. Its other name is stone wool. Unlike glass wool, the structure of which has a pronounced division into layers, basalt wool is characterized by an inhomogeneous structure.

During the manufacturing process, the material is compressed, which gives it a significant density, a fairly large mass and clear outlines.

Glass wool

This type of heat insulator is made from a mixture of quartz sand and broken glass. The structure is plastic, especially with a low density, which makes the transportation of the material more convenient - it is simply rolled up.

Mineral wool

The material has a fibrous structure and is obtained by melting and further spraying of mining waste, slags, etc.

It is produced both in the form of rolls and in a slab version, which is distinguished by its rigidity. Despite the existing drawbacks, the insulation continues to be popular, since it has already become traditional.

Insulation polystyrene group

The most common materials from this group are ordinary foam, produced by a non-press method, and a more modern version of it - expanded foam, obtained by the extrusion method. The structure of the foam consists of many individual granules that are loosely connected to each other. Penoplex is characterized by a structure of small cells filled with carbon dioxide molecules. Both materials are lightweight and have excellent thermal insulation properties. More modern extruded polystyrene foam is devoid of the disadvantages inherent in foam, and has better quality indicators.

Styrofoam

To many, it seems to be almost the best material for insulation. But upon careful study of the characteristics, doubts may arise about the correctness of the choice. Polyfoam is flammable, toxic in case of fire and weakly resistant to mechanical damage.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

One of the most modern heaters, featuring a foam structure. For application on vertical and horizontal surfaces, special equipment is used, injecting the mixture under high pressure to create a monolithic coating.

Optimum insulation thickness

For each specific case, it is necessary to carry out an individual calculation, based on the characteristics of the climate in the region and the material of the building. The average calculation method consists in multiplying the level of thermal conductivity of the insulation by the indicator of its resistance to heat transfer.

Finally

As practice shows, do not underestimate the importance of thermal insulation of walls and neglect it. The work algorithm is not complicated and allows you to carry out all the activities yourself. This will significantly save the family budget. When choosing a material, you should take into account not only the financial cost of the issue, but also the design features of your home. Having insulated the walls, you will be able to enjoy the comfort and warmth in the winter and invigorating coolness in the summer heat.

Video about wall insulation outside

House walls are insulated when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat sufficiently.

All appliances for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but heat is not saved.

By carrying out thermal insulation, you can provide a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because a wall is a vulnerable place in a house that experiences a large wind load.

With insufficient wall insulation, the cold easily penetrates into the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual solution. A less popular way to insulate is from the inside.... With this method, the area of the room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays an important role in deciding the method of carrying out thermal insulation in favor of external insulation works. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture inside the wall, this is especially true in regions with high humidity.

Insulation of walls from the outside is significantlymore often... This method requires more costs, but the internal area for living in the house is preserved, which is important especially in houses, the area of which is already small.

Wall insulation methods

Types of insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many heaters, those that are most suitable in terms of their physical characteristics and thermal insulation properties prevail.

What is the best way to make external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

(good heat insulator, resistant to deformation, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burning);
(low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature extremes, but it is vapor tight, susceptible to rodents);
(strong, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature extremes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in building cracks, is subject to the influence of ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
(excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-combustible, durable, but emitting harmful formaldehydes during installation);
(waterproofing, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, durability, absence of seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, it shrinks when applied, which can provoke flaking, it is recommended for combined insulation);
glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not subject to the influence of mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxicity, but due to the fragility of the fibers, it requires additional protection);
fibrolite(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but with all its positive properties it is short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
cork material(lightweight, durable, non-combustible, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

The choice of insulation

Differences in insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick house

The method of insulation depends on what material the walls of the house are made of. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, then we can highlight the following points that deserve attention:

unlike brick walls and houses made of aerated concrete, a prerequisite for installation is the installation of lathing to ensure ventilation. The installation of the lathing of block walls is carried out only under or other hinged cladding;
the most suitable heaters for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance (penoplex, expanded polystyrene), while for wooden houses, breathable mineral wool slabs are ideal insulation;
the thermal conductivity of a brick wall is higher than that of aerated concrete, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
with external insulation of a wooden house, the surface should be carefully prepared by treating it with antiseptics;
most often, for fixing the layers of the pie of a wooden wall, the installation of sheathing made of chipboard or OSB is required.

In addition, one should keep in mind all indicators of the materials from which the walls are erected, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of the insulation for the walls

Before buying insulation, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of the purchased material.

The indicator of the thickness of the material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the indications of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent, it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total amount of thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the coefficient of thermal conductivity for each material, use the formula:

P = R / K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is the indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the package).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from three... It turns out the thickness of the material required for insulation.

Wall cake device

A wall cake is a collection of layers of materials that are stacked vertically in a specific order.

Each layer of the wall cake has its own styling characteristics. If the sequence of layers is violated, then there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The device of a wall cake for external insulation must correspond to the order of laying materials, starting from the inner side of the walls:

interior decoration;
inner bearing layer (plasterboard, sheathing);
vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
bearing wall;
insulation;
waterproofing (depending on the insulation);
lathing;
ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
finishing.

Wooden wall cake

Such a scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is lumber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall cake is slightly different:

interior decoration;
Brick wall;
insulation;
ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
bearing layer outside or lathing (if you want to mount facade materials);
finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

Wet wall cake

Particularly important should be given to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Installation of the lathing

Lathing with external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as an external wall decoration... With vertical siding, the lathing is fixed horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal siding - vertically.

The lathing can be made of wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing made of beams

Before proceeding with the crate, it is necessary to prepare the beams: treat with an antifungal agent.

saw off the timber of the required size;
fix the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to the preliminary marking;
fix the timber as guides on the right and left side of the wall;
if there is no thermal insulation, then it is necessary to fix the timber to the wall by drilling holes for the dowels and fixing it with self-tapping screws.

Run the lathing along the entire wall, if it is necessary to level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing made of beams

Profile lathing

The metal profile should be fixed using hangers and brackets.

Installation of metal lathing:

fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left so that from the corner to the guide is at least 100 mm;
according to the marking, drill holes for the dowels and attach the brackets along the entire wall;
if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation plates are pricked onto the brackets;
lay the vapor barrier in the same way as the insulation;
install a metal profile along the edges of the wall;
set the height of the profile with a thread and fix the profile along the entire wall;
between the elements, fix the stiffeners from the remains of the profile.

NOTE!

It is better to choose a metal profile for siding with curved edges.

It is best to use a good quality aluminum profile.

Profile lathing

Why do you need a counter grill

Lathing and counter-lathing are often confused concepts. The lathing is necessary for attaching the covering elements to it.

The counter grill is fixed perpendicular to the crate and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time fixes the hydro-barrier.

Counter-rails must be installed in the walls on the sheathing, or on the rafter boards.

The walls of houses that are equipped with counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated façade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

by applying a special solution to the walls;
using additional materials (waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing material. Glue it vertically, with an overlap, removing the formed air bubbles and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials, use a special plaster waterproofing.

Mineral wool waterproofing

When installing the vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the wall surface from the outside and allow moisture to pass from the side of the walls.

Installation of vapor barrier films is reduced to the rules:

they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
overlap the film, glue the joints, fasten the film with staples.

If the vapor barrier is installed on a round bar, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap.... In the case of square boards, this is a must.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective wall insulation with mineral wool prepare the surface for subsequent installation work: clean up debris, close up cracks, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach suspensions.

laying mineral wool slabs from the bottom up between the guide posts end-to-end, placing the material on the hangers and attaching it with dowel-nails;
seal the cracks with pieces of insulation;
cover the vapor barrier membrane in the same way as insulation;
fasten the racks to the hangers;
then proceed to facing.

Metal crate

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If a wooden beam is used, then the insulation with mineral wool is somewhat different:

attach the beams to the prepared wall with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
the insulation is placed end-to-end between the racks, fixed with a pair of dowels, the cracks are sealed with foam;
if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-rails are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
a diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
a counter-lattice is installed, which serves as the basis for fastening the siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall cake.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam

To insulate the walls of a private house outside, you can use polystyrene foam. The order of work on foam insulation provides for the sequence of work performed:

preparation of walls (cleaning from debris, filling gaps, priming);
drawing the necessary markings;
attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for even laying the first row of slabs;
attach the foam by applying adhesive, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is fastened in a criss-cross pattern;
after the glue has completely dried, fix the foam with umbrellas;
the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, if large - with pieces of foam. After hardening, the excess foam is cut off;
for finishing slopes and corners, special corners should be used, which are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Stacking sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Fastening sheets

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with foam., since with a breathable tree it is better to use a porous insulation that can pass moisture and air vapors.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

The main mistakes of insulation

External insulation of the walls of a country house must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules for the installation of materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flows and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of the thermal insulation qualities:

incorrect calculation of thermal resistance;
in the absence of a basement strip at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
polystyrene foam during installation should not be left in the sun for a long time;
the gaps between the insulation plates lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
Expansion dowels should be installed at the corners of the building and around doors and windows to securely attach the material.

In addition, you should not save on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the low quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when the walls are insulated, the living space is preserved, a thorough study of details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in the video instructions:

In contact with

The reason for the external insulation is that the thermal insulation for the walls, made inside the room, does not allow the internal air to warm up the structure. As a result, in the cold season, condensation forms on the cooled wall, from the inside. Thermal insulation prevents it from evaporating, which entails not only the formation of mold and mildew between the insulation and the wall.

The exact opposite result is obtained when the walls are insulated from the outside. In this case, the walls warm up normally even in severe frosts - thermal insulation does not allow them to cool down and at the same time they remain completely dry - after all, the insulation does not allow cold air to penetrate inside. It is for this reason that the facades are insulated, and not the walls from the inside.

But in this case, the question arises, what about the finish? Modern thermal insulation materials are perfect for plastering or pasting them with decorative tiles. Only some preparation is required, which was already mentioned in one of our articles. Well, what kind of thermal insulator should be used for insulation is up to the home craftsman himself. We, in turn, will try to facilitate this choice and talk about the various materials used for these purposes.

There are two ways to insulate a building - to use internal insulation of premises or to insulate the walls of the house from the outside. What kind of insulation is better to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - "dew point".

Thermal insulation of the room outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

Dew point is the temperature at which condensation occurs. A point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on the physical properties of the wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as the external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The position of the dew point will be more optimal even in a completely insulated wall than in one that is insulated only from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can be obtained only when installing the insulation of the walls of the house outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and the thermal calculation in terms of thickness.

Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house outside has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
minimum values of water absorption and vapor permeability;
the ability to regulate the indoor climate;
high rates of sound absorption;
ecological cleanliness;
fire resistance and fire safety;
chemical resistance;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
strength and durability;
elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
low weight;
the possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
the ability to fill difficult and hard-to-reach areas;
ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account the way in which the consumer prefers to mount insulation outside the walls of the house. Videos showing the possibility of independent work (as well as other manuals) can be found in our time enough.

The optimal insulation for the walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the room from moisture and are selected taking into account the characteristics of the climate and depending on the installation method. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material.

The following types of insulation are most often used:

expanded polystyrene (foam);
extruded polystyrene foam (eps, penoplex);
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool;
basalt heaters;
liquid thermal insulation.

Polyfoam is a popular material for insulating the walls of the house from the outside

Polyfoam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymer insulation materials for the walls of houses and is used as such in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial.

First of all, this material is distinguished by low thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W / m * K, depending on the density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high soundproof and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its operational life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A 50 mm thick foam layer is equivalent to one and a half brick wall in terms of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and lightweight

Its other advantages include flexibility and low weight. This helps to reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, reduce the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation.

The disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the walls of the house with foam from the outside.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of the latest generation of thermal insulation materials. In its manufacture, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

Insulation of walls with penoplex followed by cladding with siding

The thermal conductivity coefficient of Penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 to 0.031 W / m * K. It is resistant to mold, chemicals, insects and rodents and is an excellent sound insulator.

Thanks to this, it is possible to use foam as insulation outside: for the walls of wooden houses and other buildings, and inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing "warm" floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of the cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W / m * K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam is distinguished by a high level of adhesion to all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing.

The seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity make polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown thermal insulation when insulating walls outside buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for walls outside by blowing can be applied at temperatures up to 100 ° C, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as a blown insulation between the building wall and the cladding

The only drawback of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool is a product of slag processing (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. Differs in strength, incombustibility, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 - 0.037 W / m * K.

Mineral wool is characterized by fire resistance, environmental friendliness, high sound absorption and low cost

For insulation works, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as insulation for the outside walls of the house. The dimensions of the slabs produced can be as follows:

1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene plates can have docking grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings of any purpose, in particular - for insulation in the country, wooden houses and timber structures. bricks or foam blocks. It is possible to work with this material at temperatures ranging from -60 ° C to 220 ° C, which is unambiguously convenient for installation on walls outside.

What kind of insulation is best for roofs of different structures. Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic roof insulation. Insulation of the attic roof.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of the house outside under siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool to insulate the house from the outside, followed by siding.

Also popular is the use of mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create a blown insulation. With this method, using a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and the finishing facade. which also serves as a formwork.

Liquid thermal insulation materials can be called new generation heaters. They can be used for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames), and as a heater for houses from foam blocks. On the outside, on the walls, these multicomponent ceramic substances look like acrylic paint.

However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid insulation is like acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid heaters have a record low thermal conductivity coefficient (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W / m * K). For comparison - the coefficient of thermal conductivity of vacuum is equal to 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and sophisticated equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using painting tools - brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices.

The choice of insulation for external walls. 3 options for wall insulation outside

Wall insulation outside can be carried out with different materials. There is a wide range of products on the market. But what is the best way to insulate the facade of the house? The answer to the question depends on several factors. And it's not always worth believing the manufacturer's advertisements.

Insulation of the facade of the house with modern materials will be useless without adherence to technology. This is also worth considering when preparing for work. Before insulating the house from the outside, you need to understand the nuances of the process.

It is important not only to choose the right heat insulator, but also to observe the insulation technology

Wall insulation can be divided into two large groups:

inorganic;
organic.

The second group has more representatives. This includes products of the chemical industry: expanded polystyrene (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene), natural ecowool. When choosing how to insulate the facade of a house from the outside, first of all, you need to pay attention to the physical properties.

Styrofoam

Such thermal insulation belongs to the class of foamed polymers. Polyfoam is highly efficient, easy to install, and isolates noise quite well. Another advantage is the affordable price. But the disadvantages of such a material are noticeably more. In order to choose the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, it is important to consider that polystyrene has such qualities as:

flammability;
fragility (service life is rarely more than 10-20 years);
poor vapor permeability (additional ventilation of the premises will be required);
instability to the simultaneous effects of cold and moisture (the material crumbles into separate balls);
low strength.

Polyfoam is affordable, excellent thermal insulation, but flammable and short-lived

It is possible that the material will release toxic styrene as it ages. The concentration is small, and when insulated from the outside, the substance practically does not penetrate the room, but this property casts doubt on the manufacturer's statements about environmental friendliness.

Read more about insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam.

To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you can use extruded polystyrene foam or, more simply, penoplex. This material is a close relative of foam. It has all its advantages and some disadvantages. But compared to the previous version, it lacks such important disadvantages as:

instability to moisture and cold;
low strength;
fragility.

Flammability and low vapor permeability remain. Although some manufacturers, by introducing special additives, increase the fire resistance class, it is not possible to obtain a completely non-combustible material.

Penoplex is a strong durable material, but it has a low fire resistance class

Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade of a wooden house is not recommended using foam or polystyrene foam. Owners value such buildings for the naturalness of materials and the ability of the walls to "breathe". External insulation with polystyrene will completely block the air movement. In this case, additional forced ventilation may even be required, since natural ventilation will not be enough. Polystyrene can easily turn a building into a greenhouse; this is worth remembering when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside.

Read more about insulation of the facade with extruded polystyrene foam.

Ecowool

This material deserves the title of environmentally friendly insulation, since it is completely made from cellulose fibers. External wall insulation with such material is not subject to decay and is unattractive to rodents. This can be achieved by adding to the composition of minerals: boric acid and borax.

No matter how comfortable and modern the house is, it will not become comfortable for living without high-quality thermal insulation. Correctly organized insulation can significantly reduce heating costs, protect the facade of the house and its premises from dampness, freezing, the appearance of mold and fungi, which will significantly extend the life of the building. The most popular is the exterior or facade insulation of the house.

Advantages and disadvantages of outdoor insulation

All load-bearing elements of the structure should be insulated, however, for the outer walls of the house, this is especially important, since they are the ones leading in terms of heat loss.

By insulating the outer walls, it is possible to protect them from the negative effects of high and low temperatures, as well as their abrupt change. As a rule, the insulation is closed with a facade, which also performs a protective function, taking on the atmospheric effect on itself. All this contributes to the preservation of the strength of the walls, an increase in the period of their maintenance-free operation.

Insulation outside can be quite voluminous, but this does not in any way affect the usable area of the premises in the house. This cannot be achieved when insulating rooms from the inside, because even the thinnest layer of thermal insulation leads, albeit to a slight, but decrease in the usable area.

In addition, with external insulation, it is possible to avoid the formation of "cold bridges", which inevitably arise between the floor and walls, walls and partitions during internal insulation of the room. User reviews suggest that "cold bridges" are practically not formed when the facade is insulated. Otherwise, they can be easily eliminated by using special gaskets at the joints of the insulation sheets.

The task of thermal insulation of external walls is to bring the total indicator of their resistance to heat transfer to a calculated indicator that is optimal for a particular area. More details about such calculations will be discussed below.

Usually they resort to insulation already on the erected walls. Thanks to the variety of modern materials and insulation methods, it is possible to solve the problems of heat transfer and, accordingly, protect the walls from freezing, the appearance of erosion on concrete surfaces, rotting of wooden structures.

In rare cases, you can do without additional wall insulation in frame houses in the first place. Others, for example, foam block houses, definitely need thermal insulation.

The ways

Depending on the type of facade, structural features and the selected option for exterior decoration, one or another method of installing insulation is selected. Today's thermal insulation materials have a small thickness with high thermal efficiency. They are suitable for both wet and dry facades and can also be poured into wall voids. The first involves the use of building mixtures for decoration, the insulation is fixed with glue.

Curtain facades involve the use of fasteners. As a rule, panels and tiles are used for decoration, which delight in a variety of designs. The user can choose calm muted panel shades or, on the contrary, bright ones. Facade materials like stone, wood, imitating plaster or brickwork, are very popular.

Thermal insulation with bulk material, for example, granular foam glass, is used when erecting walls using the well method. Also, materials of this type are suitable for mixing masonry mortars and plaster mixtures. Regardless of the chosen method of laying the insulation, the surface of the walls should be prepared. All protruding elements must be repulsed, cracks and gaps must be repaired with cement mortar.

It is necessary to remove all communications from the facade - wires, pipes. The surface must be level, clean and dry. After that, it is necessary to prime the facade in 2-3 layers. The primer will provide additional protection for the walls as well as better adhesion of materials. It is recommended to pre-treat wooden surfaces with an antiseptic or choose a primer containing antiseptic additives.

Under plaster

Insulation in the form of sheets or plates is glued to the prepared wall with special glue. Additional fixation is provided by umbrella dowels, which are inserted into specially made holes on the surface of the glued insulation. Each subsequent row of insulation is attached with an offset of ½ sheet of the previous row. For some time after gluing, the material remains mobile, so it is possible to align it and correct minor flaws.

After the insulation is fixed, a thick layer of glue is applied to it, into which the reinforcing mesh is pressed. First, it is attached to the corners of the building, for which special corners are used. After about a day, the facade mesh is securely installed at the corners and you can start attaching the mesh to the rest of the facade surfaces.

The next step is to plaster the surfaces. The composition is applied in several layers. Each subsequent - after complete drying of the previous one. To improve the adhesion of the layers and eliminate small irregularities on the dry layer, you should walk with fine sandpaper.

The finishing layer of plaster is covered with decorative plaster or painted with facade paint. The latter usually has an acrylic base, the presence of polyurethane in the composition is permissible to increase the strength and wear resistance of the painted layer.

Ventilated facade

To increase the thermal efficiency of a building, they increasingly resort to organizing a ventilated facade. Its feature is the presence of air space between the insulation fixed close to the wall and the facade material. This distance is usually 25-50 mm.

In addition to preparing the facade, it is necessary to install a batten - a system consisting of metal profiles or wooden bars, which is a frame. Facade materials are attached to this frame.

For the lathing, metal profiles are increasingly used, which is associated with their greater bearing capacity, as well as durability and fire resistance. An important point - the profiles of the lathing should be made of stainless steel. The use of other metals is permissible, provided that they have anti-corrosion protection.

Wooden logs are also used as a frame. Before installation, they are treated with fire retardants and compounds that increase the hydrophobicity of the wood. The frame is attached to the entire surface of the façade by means of brackets. Insulation (in the form of sheets, mats) is laid between the guides of the crate, which is attached to the brackets (as if hung on them).

A waterproofing windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation, which serves to protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture and blowing out. The membrane together with the insulation is fixed to the wall by means of disc dowels. The fastening element must necessarily be in the center of each heat-insulating sheet, 2-3 dowels are installed at the edges.

The completion of the work is the installation of hinged panels or tiles, which are fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate and interlock with each other by means of a locking mechanism. The latter ensures the wind resistance of the facade, the absence of gaps in it. For the design of corners, window and door openings, various architectural elements, special additional structures are used.

It is a mistake to think that only a curtain facade can be ventilated. Wet technology is quite applicable to a ventilated system. For this, the facade is also decorated with a wooden crate, between the guides of which insulation is glued. A protective membrane is installed on top of it.

This "pie" is covered with a solid sheathing of plywood or boards. They are mounted on wooden logs, thus creating a solid wooden "facade". It is primed, and after drying, finishing plastering is performed.

Finally, there is the so-called integrated approach - the organization of a ventilated facade using thermal panels. The latter are insulated facade slabs (for example, clinker), which are glued or fixed to the lathing. No additional wall insulation is needed, the main thing is to select the required thickness of the thermal panel insulation (standard thickness is 30-100 mm) and seal the gaps between the facade tiles.

Three-layer system

This insulation technology is possible only when building walls at home. As a rule, it involves laying walls according to the principle of a well. As the level of the facade rises, an air space forms between the walls. It is filled with bulk insulation or liquid thermal insulation mixtures.

An option for such a construction can be the use of overall aerated concrete blocks with large cavities for the construction of walls. At the same time, the cavities in the blocks are filled with bulk insulation (expanded clay, perlite).

A simpler and less laborious way to build warm walls is to use blocks of non-removable polystyrene foam formwork. The installation of blocks is somewhat similar to the assembly of a children's designer - the elements of the wall structure are fastened by means of spikes and grooves. After the wall has risen somewhat, a reinforcing belt is installed and concrete mortar is poured.

The result is reinforced concrete walls equipped with an inner and outer thermal insulation layer. In this case, the facade decoration is carried out using ½ brickwork, facade tiles, or simply plastered. The choice of interior finishing options is also wide.

The only way to organize a three-layer insulation system is to cover the structure with brickwork. In other words, the masonry acts as the outer layer of the "pie", as well as the finishing of the facade.

The technology implies the insulation of the main wall with insulation, and then its facing with bricks. This method is only suitable for reinforced foundations that protrude at least the width of the brick. If the bearing capacity of the existing foundation is low, then the brick cladding requires the installation of its own foundation. He, in turn, must be associated with the base of the main walls.

Varieties

Depending on the composition and production technologies of manufacturing, heaters have a different appearance, technical characteristics and scope. There are materials that are used exclusively on flat surfaces, while others are only suitable for curtain-sided ventilated facades.

However, modern heaters are quite versatile. So, bulk materials are suitable not only for insulating flat surfaces or filling in the inter-wall space, but can also be added to the cement mortar for pouring or screed floors. Mineral wool materials are used for wet and curtain walls and are also suitable for thermal insulation of interior walls, floors and ceilings. Moreover, due to the heat resistance of stone wool, it can be used to insulate baths or saunas.

Stone wool can insulate both non-stressed structures and those that are under pressure. To do this, you just need to choose the right density of cotton wool.

Due to the variety of release forms, it is possible to choose a more convenient option from the point of view of installation for a specific site. So, it is convenient to use roll materials to insulate flat, flat areas. Plates will help out, if necessary, to cover large flat vertical surfaces. Loose materials or foam insulation are suitable for basement insulation.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam

Previously, styrene foam insulation was almost the only one, and therefore was widespread. Today the situation is different, and the owners of private houses are in no hurry to use it for thermal insulation.

Expanded polystyrene materials are presented in two types - non-pressed expanded polystyrene (more commonly known as polystyrene foam) and an analogue obtained during extrusion. Polyfoam is a light rectangular white blocks that can have different thicknesses. At the base are foam balls filled with air. It is they who provide significant indicators of the thermal efficiency of the material.

However, it is important to understand that it is thanks to this structure that the material is able to absorb up to 300% of its mass of water. Naturally, there is no trace of the former thermal efficiency.

Styrofoam does not allow the walls to "breathe", and after 5-7 years its thermal efficiency will decrease by about 8 times. This is confirmed by laboratory studies and is associated with destructive changes in the material (the appearance of cracks, half-lengths).

The main danger of using foam as a heater is its tendency to actively burn with the release of extremely toxic substances into the air. In this regard, it is banned for use in construction in many European countries.

However, in all fairness, it should be noted that, due to its low weight, foam plastic does not require strengthening the facade, it is easy to install, and has a low cost. A more modern type of foam is extruded polystyrene foam. Due to the technological features of production, the material managed to deprive many of the disadvantages of its non-foamed analogue.

The extruded material also consists of many smaller (compared to foam) air bubbles, each of which is isolated from the next. This increases the thermal efficiency of the material, as well as the mechanical strength and moisture resistance.

The components of carbon dioxide or inert gases present in the composition somewhat increase the fire resistance of the extruded insulation, but there is no need to talk about its complete fire safety.

Due to its low vapor permeability, the material is suitable for use only in ventilated facades. At the same time, it is important to stick it tightly to the surface of the walls, avoiding gaps and gaps between the insulation and the wall.

Extruded polystyrene foam is good for insulating a basement or foundation. The increased strength of the material will ensure its resistance to soil pressure, and moisture resistance will protect it from getting wet and deteriorating the base.

Polyurethane foam

The use of polyurethane foam is considered one of the most effective methods of thermal insulation, since in its thermal insulation characteristics it is significantly superior to most thermal insulation materials. To achieve a positive effect, a layer of 2-3 cm is enough.

Polyurethane foam refers to liquid types of insulation, which are applied by spraying. After hardening, a durable moisture-resistant layer is formed. Due to the improved adhesion of the material, such a monolithic "fur coat" is applied to almost any surface. An important advantage of polyurethane foam is its fire resistance. Even when decomposed by high temperatures, it does not release toxins.

It is worth noting the environmental friendliness of the coating. During spraying, the composition contains compounds hazardous to health, however, as they solidify, they volatilize. The material is not suitable for contact finishing (plastering, painting), since it is impossible to obtain a completely smooth and even surface during the spraying process.

Aligning the polyurethane foam "coat" (as well as removing it completely) is a very laborious process. Among the disadvantages is low vapor permeability. This necessitates enhanced ventilation of the facade. Polyurethane foam is not recommended for application on wooden walls, because in just 5-7 years, wood rotting due to constantly high humidity.

Mineral wool

Today this material is becoming more widespread due to its versatility, good thermal insulation performance and affordability. Such material consists of randomly spaced fibers, between which air bubbles are contained in large volumes. It is they who provide not only a high thermal insulation effect, but also good sound insulation.

When insulating facades, glass and basalt wool are usually used. The first is based on glass breakage and quartz sand, which are melted. Long and thin fibers are formed from the semi-liquid mass, after which they are given the necessary shape (mats, rolls).

Glass wool is plastic, which determines, firstly, the simplicity of its transportation and storage, and secondly, the possibility of using it on uneven surfaces. The material is pressed and packed into compact boxes or rolls. After opening the package, the material takes the prescribed shape and volume. In addition, due to its elasticity, glass wool insulation is optimal for cladding wall surfaces with complex configurations.

The material does not melt, does not attract rodents or pathogenic microflora (fungi, insects). The combustion temperature is 500 degrees, which allows us to speak of a low flammability class of the material. An undoubted advantage is its affordable cost.

A significant disadvantage of glass wool is its hygroscopicity. It is clear that getting wet, the material loses its technical characteristics. In this regard, when using insulation, it is important to consider reliable water protection or the possibility of regular ventilation.

Glass elements, being amorphous, stick together during operation. This causes the material to shrink - over time it becomes thinner, which negatively affects its thermal insulation properties.Finally, glass wool fibers have cutting edges. They penetrate the skin, causing irritation.

In addition, when rising into the air, glass wool particles enter the upper respiratory tract and on the surface of the mucous membranes, also causing swelling and irritation. To work with insulation, you must purchase a special suit, glasses, gloves and a respirator.

Basalt wool is more attractive in terms of installation and technical characteristics. It is also called stone, which is explained by the peculiarities of its composition. Cotton wool is made from molten rocks (basalt, dolomite). The heating temperature reaches 1300-1500 degrees. Fibers are also drawn from the molten raw material, from which mats are formed. Those, in turn, are subjected to pressing and additional heat treatment to obtain strength and geometric accuracy of shapes.

Basalt wool is superior in thermal efficiency to fiberglass of similar density. Stone wool is distinguished by excellent vapor permeability and high water resistance (due to the special impregnation of fibers). Despite the density of the mats, they are easily cut with a construction knife. In this case, the adhesive can be applied directly to the cotton wool, as well as the plaster layer can be laid (after the wool is reinforced).

Basalt insulation fibers are less brittle, do not split. It is easier to work with the material, although you should not give up a respirator. Like all mineral wool insulation, stone wool forms dust during installation, which negatively affects the state of the respiratory system.

Liquid products

When applied, liquid insulation looks like paint. However, they contain evacuated voids, thanks to which stunningly low values of thermal conductivity are achieved (by fractions of a thousandth they are superior only to the thermal conductivity of vacuum).

It is worth noting the ease of application and good adhesion to most building materials. The formulations are applied as paint coatings using brushes or rollers. Setting time is on average 6-8 hours. After that, an attractive, fire-resistant, environmentally friendly surface is formed. The liquid coating also protects walls from negative atmospheric influences and has anti-corrosion properties.

Loose species

Used to fill wall cavities or create mortars with thermal insulation properties. The oldest free-flowing heat insulator is expanded clay, which is "balls" of fired clay of different fractions. Due to its porous structure, the material has good thermal insulation properties. During the sintering process, it gains surface strength. In combination with low weight, this expands the scope of expanded clay.

The advantage of the material is its non-hygroscopicity (despite its porous structure), fire resistance (does not burn, does not emit toxins during heating), biostability (does not become a habitat for any of the life forms, a home or food for rodents), environmental friendliness and an affordable price. When using expanded clay, it is important to cover it with a thick layer, use a multi-layer structure or large hollow blocks. This is the only way to achieve high-quality insulation.

A more modern bulk insulation is vermiculite. It is based on hydromica, which is subjected to high-temperature firing. As a result, it swells, turning into layered granules with a large number of pores.

It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, fire resistance and durability. The only drawback is the high cost (on average, 7000-10000 rubles per m3 of vermiculite). The optimal solution in this regard is to add granules to the plaster mix to obtain a "warm plaster". Due to its high vapor permeability, such plaster is successfully used on various types of surfaces.

The use of expanded perlite sand is no less effective. The raw material is volcanic glass, which, after firing, forms fine and light porous sand.

The finished product is characterized by high values of thermal insulation (due to its low density and gas content), fire resistance. Fine powder is found in the composition of perlite, which is why it is quite difficult to work with it - the process promises to be troublesome and dusty. The best solution is to mix it into concrete or masonry mortars.

The use of the latter provides high-quality thermal insulation and reduces the risk of the formation of "cold bridges", since the solution penetrates into the joints between bricks or blocks, fills cracks and voids. Perlite is also used as part of "warm plasters", the application of which not only copes with the function of thermal insulation of the house, but also acts as the finishing of the facade.

Criterias of choice

In addition to low thermal conductivity, insulation for external walls must be characterized by high fire resistance. The optimal materials are those that belong to the class NG (non-combustible materials) or have a low flammability class (G1, G2). Fortunately, most materials are self-extinguishing, that is, they do not burn with an open flame.

However, modern synthetic-based insulation (and there are most of them) can emit hazardous combustion products when smoldering. According to statistics, it is they who become the cause of human casualties in case of fire. In this regard, it is important to choose not only a fire-resistant material, but also to make sure that it does not emit toxic elements during combustion.

Another important criterion is the vapor permeability of the insulation. When insulating walls, it is important to bring the "dew point" to the outer layer of insulation. This point is a linearly changing boundary, which accounts for the transition of moisture from one state of aggregation to another, or rather, from vapor to liquid. The liquid, in turn, leads to wetting of the walls and insulation, after which the latter ceases to cope with its functions.

The walls get wet, erosion and other destructions occur on them, zones of high humidity are found inside the house, which leads to dampness of the walls, the appearance of mold, and insect nesting. Avoiding such troubles allows the choice of insulation with high rates of vapor barrier and moisture resistance and, of course, the competent organization of the thermal insulation "pie" with the obligatory use of a vapor barrier film or membrane.

When choosing a heater, it is important to consider the cladding material. So, for brick walls, you can purchase polystyrene foam, while it is imperative to provide a ventilation system. Stone wool or expanded polystyrene is traditionally used under a wet facade. For hinged facades - mineral wool insulation, as well as for wooden buildings.

It is also important to take into account the features of the operation of a suburban building. So, as a heater in the country, where you live only in the summer, extruded polystyrene foam is quite suitable. If you finish it with plaster, it will turn out to be cheap and beautiful to equip the facade.

But for the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete, polystyrene cannot be used. A good solution would be the use of mineral wool insulation and further siding. By the way, this option is also optimal for cinder block houses and expanded clay concrete walls. An arbolite house built from blocks with a thickness of 30 cm or more does not need to be insulated. An exception is living in a region with a harsh climate.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work involves the selection and purchase of insulation. It is important to correctly calculate its quantity (volume), as well as thickness. If the thermal insulation is carried out independently by the owner of the house, you should achieve the evenness and smoothness of the walls.

For this, communications are dismantled from their surface, protruding elements are knocked off, cracks are filled with cement mortar. After that, the facade is primed in 2-3 layers. When organizing a ventilated system, a crate is mounted. When facing with bricks, the foundation is strengthened.

Thickness calculation

With thermal insulation, it is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to calculate its required thickness. Using an overly thin layer will not solve the heat loss problem. An unreasonably thick layer will lead to excessive stress on the walls, an irrational increase in the cost of work.

There is a special formula for calculating the thickness of the insulation, but it can be difficult for a non-professional to work with it. Knowledge of the regulatory requirements for wall thickness allows you to simplify the calculation process. So, for brick walls, this thickness is 210 cm, for wooden - 53 cm. Next, you need to find out the thickness of the walls in your own house, by subtracting to determine how many cm are missing to the standard indicators.

Installation technology

Most modern heaters are versatile and are suitable for fastening from the street to stone, concrete, wooden surfaces, block bases. As a finish, both decorative compositions and tiles, panels and siding for tiles and natural finishing materials are used.

The installation technology differs depending on the features of the organization of the facade system and the materials used. Slightly above, it has already been said about 3 possible methods for arranging an insulated facade:

thermal insulation for plastering;
ventilated facade;
three-layer facade.

When insulating walls, it is important to take care of insulating its basement part. It is through the base that most of the heat loss occurs. Foamed polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation are suitable as insulation.

The surface of the basement is cleaned of facade coating, dirt, if necessary, reinforced, necessarily leveled, primed. Next, the insulation is fixed in accordance with the technological recommendations for its installation.

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, we have a huge bunch of questions in our head:

How to insulate the walls?
How to insulate walls?
What is the best way to insulate, from the outside or from the inside?
Will the house get warmer, and won't I throw money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, as well as talk about the materials for insulation that are popular today.

How to properly insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside

Try asking any builder what is the best way to insulate the walls of a house, from the outside or from the inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and to resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why thermal insulation of walls from inside the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of a house wall, with insulation outside, inside and without insulation at all:

In common human terms, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensation.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that there is a positive temperature to the left of the dew point, and a negative temperature to the right.

When insulated from the inside:

The wall remains unprotected by home heat, since the heat barrier from the insulation will not let it into the wall. Thus, in the winter, it will be largely exposed to frost, constant moisture, and it will not have time to dry out, since we blocked the way from the inside with a heater from the inside to the heat that protected the wall earlier.
In the place of the dew point, condensation collects (water vapor of the air is converted into droplets of water), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
The constant formation of condensation, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various kinds of fungi and mold on the wall. Do not console yourself with the fact that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing terrible will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall adversely affect not only the appearance, but also the health of the residents of such a house.
If you look at the diagram, you can see on it that even without insulation, there will be less moisture on the inside of the wall than with insulation from the inside.

When insulated outside:

From the side of the street, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and taking into account the technology of insulation, and from moisture, and from the side of the room - by home heat, which sufficiently heats the wall and even in cases of various kinds of condensation and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
We move the dew point away from the premises towards the street, which means that we also take the condensate away from the premises further.
Insulation on the outside will allow you to largely preserve warmth and comfort in your home.

I think that now it has become clear to everyone why everyone is rejecting the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often they resort to insulation from the outside. And it is necessary to insulate the walls from the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about the insulation of walls with expanded polystyrene in one of the previous articles. Here I will mention some of the main points.

Preparing the wall for the installation of insulation

The first thing to do before insulating the walls with expanded polystyrene or EPS is to clean the outside walls of the house from dirt, dust and, which is not unimportant, trim them. After that, they must be primed if you will use glue for installing the insulation.

If there are significant pits on the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the expanded polystyrene plate and the wall. And this is extremely undesirable, because even a slight blow or push on the insulation to the place where the hole is, can deform it or break it.
If, during the process of warming, you come across a small bump, it will be difficult for you to glue the expanded polystyrene sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of expanded polystyrene and EPSP on the wall

Expanded polystyrene, as a rule, is glued to the wall on a special glue for expanded polystyrene plates, and sometimes on special "fungi".

In the case of thermal insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the glue will be applied rough. There are no such problems with foam, the glue sticks it well without additional processing, and EPS - with a smoother surface, so it must be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, expanded polystyrene is attached simultaneously to glue and to "fungi", which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After the installation of the insulation, as a rule, the walls are plastered from the outside, or lined with facing bricks.

Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene using wooden battens

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam plates - using a frame made of strips or other suitable material.

Slats are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, and even better, so that it is larger, to create a ventilated space between the expanded polystyrene and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the expanded polystyrene plates are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you will not be plastering or covering the walls with bricks, but bypass them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for fastening the facing materials.

How to properly insulate walls outside with mineral wool

Mineral wool insulation is another popular insulation for the walls of the house.

Wall insulation with mineral wool differs from wall insulation with expanded polystyrene plates, primarily due to the characteristics of the insulation themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation, therefore, the installation of mineral wool is carried out, as a rule, using the frame method. But if the wadded insulation is of sufficient density, then builders also do not disdain mounting on glue.

A frame is constructed from laths or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled out between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall using dowel nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then with self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can fix the mineral wool with "fungi" so that it does not roll down.

Since wadded insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the effect of insulation.

It is also desirable to build more or less reliable protection against various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing the walls outside with bricks, the insulation is laid between the main wall and the facing one, while these two walls are connected with special ties that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from sliding down in the future.

Wall insulation outside with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern type of insulation, but also one of the most expensive. There are many advantages of wall insulation with polyurethane foam:

after application, it expands, filling all cavities, cracks, etc.
at a certain density, vapor permeability is very low, which excludes additional vapor barrier
has good adhesion, i.e. adheres well to the wall
after hardening has good mechanical strength
good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, any coin has two sides, and here, there are also enough disadvantages:

low density polyurethane foam, has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
low fire resistance
expensive material
spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically excludes do-it-yourself insulation
aging of polyurethane foam over time, with a deterioration in thermal insulation properties

It is better to entrust the insulation of the walls of the house outside with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protective equipment, since hazardous toxic substances are released during the spraying process.