Hip roof options. We build a hipped roof with our own hands. Step V: Installing the support posts, purlins and ridge

Pitched roof structures are very often used in private houses. Their four-pitched version is ideal for tall buildings, since the roof looks more compact and neat without a massive gable. The gable roof structure contains many constituent elements. It can be both relatively simple and more complex due to dormer and dormer windows. But in the latter case, it looks more interesting and diverse.

The four-pitched roof, in comparison with its two-pitched counterpart, better resists wind loads, precipitation and protects the walls of the building well. Its design is more complex, but such a roof can be built independently for a small house or gazebo. In the photo on the network you can see how beautiful and harmonious a 4-pitched roof looks. She adorns both single-storey houses and higher buildings.

Before you make a hipped roof with your own hands, you need to decide on its type. There are the following types of such systems:

Hip construction It consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular slopes, called hips. The first two slopes are joined to each other in the skate. During installation, the technique of arranging layered rafters is used, as in a two-slope system, and nesting rafter legs from a 4-slope system.
Half-hip design has the same structure, only the hip slopes are shortened. Under them is a pediment, in which large windows can be made to illuminate the attic or attic floor without losing the strength of the roof.
You can also build hipped roofs with your own hands if you make four slopes in the form of an isosceles triangle. They converge at one point.
The hardest thing to build yourself hipped roof complex configuration with many valleys, gables, abutments and attic windows. In this case, it is better to entrust the construction to specialists, since only they will be able to correctly calculate the structure, execute its plan, diagram and assemble it on site.

Attention! In addition to the supporting roof frame, it is necessary to decide on roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, since different roof designs and slope slopes require the use of different materials.

Component elements

Since the device of a hipped roof is practically no different from a gable system, it consists of the same constituent elements, but with the addition of some additional details. A 4-pitched roof includes the following details:

Mauerlat. This is a wooden beam of square or rectangular cross-section, which is laid along the top of the external load-bearing walls, on which the rafters will rest. It absorbs all the loads and distributes it evenly for transmission to the walls. Houses with a hipped roof are made with a Mauerlat with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm.
The beds are internal support elements that are laid on the load-bearing walls inside the house or on the supports. The material and section of the bed is the same as that of the Mauerlat.
Rafters are divided into slant and side rafters. The latter of them form a trapezoidal slope, and the nipple ones are needed for hip slopes. Side rafters are not used in the hipped roof. The side rafters are assembled from a bar with a section of 5x15 cm, and the diagonal ones are 10x15 cm. The optimal pitch of the rafter system is 800-900 mm, but it may be less or more depending on the selected roofing and roof design features.
Racks are needed to support the frame of the four-slope structure.
Ridge run - a horizontal element that simultaneously connects the rafters and serves as a support for them. The pitched roof structure does not have a ridge. It is better to make it from a bar with a section of 150x100 (50) mm.
Puffs are a horizontal element that connects paired side rafters, preventing them from moving apart. Material - board with a section of 5x15 cm.
Narozhniki are shortened rafters that are attached to the diagonal leg. They are made of 150x50 mm board.
The struts are special struts that increase the strength and load-bearing capacity of the roof.
The filly are elements that form the overhang of the roof and are attached to the rafters from below. It is made from a bar with a section of 120x50 mm.

When arranging a more complex 4-pitched roof, the drawing and structural diagram may contain other additional elements, for example, cornices, protective strips, additional battens, etc. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to perform a sketch or drawing to scale, and carry out all the necessary calculations on it.

Important: the material of all the constituent elements of the roof is coniferous wood of at least grade 2 with a moisture content of no more than 15%.

Installation sequence

We will study how a hipped roof is made with our own hands using the example of the simplest hip structure. The step-by-step process of installing the constituent elements of the roof looks like this:

To transfer and evenly distribute the load from the roof frame, snow and the roofing itself, Mauerlats are laid on the load-bearing walls. The bars are fixed to the enclosing structures by means of anchor pins, which are laid even at the stage of wall construction. If the house is built of wood, then the last crown of the log house plays the role of Mauerlat. The Mauerlat timber must be protected from brick, concrete and stone walls by means of waterproofing. To do this, it is wrapped in two layers of roofing material.
The beds are laid on the load-bearing internal walls. They are needed where racks are provided in the rafter system. If there are no internal load-bearing walls in the house or they are in the wrong place, then reinforced beams must be provided under the racks, which serve as floors. As a rule, the beams have a section of 20x5 cm, so the supporting elements are increased to a section of 20x10 cm.
After that, they begin to install the racks on the bearing beams or beds. The racks are leveled or plumb and temporarily fixed by means of supports from the boards. For reliable fixing of the rack, metal corners or steel plates are used. For a simple hip system, you will need one row of stakes centered right under the ridge. The pitch of the racks is not more than 2 m. When arranging a hipped roof, the racks must be installed under diagonal legs at the same distance from the corner of the house.
Next, girders are placed on the installed racks. With a conventional hip system, this run is the ridge. At the hipped roof, all the girders form a rectangle with a smaller perimeter than the house itself. All purlins in this design are fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Now you can start installing the rafter legs. In this case, the installation of side rafters in a simple hip system is performed in the following sequence:

A board (150x25 mm) along the width of the rafters is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the extreme rack and a template is made. The upper cut is marked on it (the place with which the rafter leg will rest on the skate) and cut it out.
Next, the template is applied to the ridge and the bottom cut is cut (the one with which the rafter element will rest on the Mauerlat beam).
After that, the finished template is applied to the ridge at the place where the rafters are installed and the need to fit for each rafter element is checked.
The rafters are marked out and the recess is cut out according to the template.
Now the rafter legs can be installed and fastened to the Mauerlat and the ridge bar. For fixing, metal corners and self-tapping screws or staples are used.

You can learn more about the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof from the proposed video:

For the manufacture of diagonal reinforced rafters, you can use two spliced \u200b\u200bboards of a conventional side rafter. A template for diagonal legs is made in the same way. The upper part of these elements rest on the rack, and the lower part - on the corner part of the Mauerlat. That is why the cuts should be done at 45 degrees.
Further, between the two diagonal rafters, the beads are installed. The step of installing these elements is equal to the step of installing the rafters. The upper part of the wrist rests on a diagonal leg, the lower part - on the Mauerlat. Washed down on the upper part of the handles in half of the elements is done in a mirror image. The bottom cut is usually performed locally. After the installation of the element, an overhang is formed, which is aligned with the tensioned cord and cut.
The constructed rafter system does not yet guarantee the reliability of the roof. Since the diagonal legs have the maximum load, additional racks must be installed under them - springs. They must rest on reinforced floor beams.
Under the side rafter legs, struts are installed, which with their lower edge rest on a bed or a floor beam, and their upper edge should rest against the rafter at an angle of about 45 °.
A do-it-yourself four-pitched roof can be made with any roof covering, for example, from ondulin, corrugated board, metal tiles, shingles. But it is worth remembering that under the soft coating you need to make a continuous crate of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. If you plan to make an attic floor, then it is necessary to lay insulation between the rafters, and hem everything with a vapor barrier from below. If the attic is cold, then only the floors are insulated. Waterproofing must be laid under the roofing and a ventilation gap is made.

When building your own home, a lot of responsibility falls on the shoulders. We have to deal with a bunch of issues and participate in the construction process. After all, a reliable roof over your head will ensure a comfortable life.

Difficulties always attract a person. It is not for nothing that they say: "We are not looking for easy ways." This also happens in construction. The four-pitched roof has a complex shape, giving the building a special look. This architecture attracts many. This type is especially popular when building country houses. For a one-story house, it would be a good option to build a hipped roof.

In this article

View

The location of the 4 slopes on different sides gives your home a solid look. Often the slopes have different shapes: a pair of them is obtained in the shape of a triangle and plays the role of a pediment, and some are given the shape of a trapezoid.

Difficulties with a hipped roof during calculations and installation scare off many who wish, but if you do not doubt your abilities, then you can safely build it.

Design advantages

A do-it-yourself hipped roof has the following advantages:

the absence of gables makes the roof more durable and resistant to wind gusts. This type of roof is suitable for areas with windy weather conditions;
the presence of 4 slopes copes more effectively with the removal of melt and rain water, as well as snow;
the attic space becomes more spacious, which is ideal for the location of the attic;
construction of a 4-pitched roof will not cost more than other types.

Types

When making a hipped roof with your own hands, you can distinguish several of its subspecies:

hip - is the classic option. Has 2 triangular hips and 2 trapezoidal slopes;
half-hip - has slightly shortened slopes. Great for attic use;
tent - executed in the form of a pyramid. Ideal for a square building.

Project

Before proceeding directly to construction, it is necessary to create a roof project in order not to make mistakes in the future. How to build a roof? In such a case, step-by-step instructions will help. Having familiarized ourselves with the structure of the house, we proceed to the following:

we calculate the angle of inclination of the slopes, based on indicators such as wind load, precipitation in your area, type of roofing material. In areas with strong gusts of wind, it is advisable to make the angle of inclination less than 30 degrees, thus, the windage will decrease. In areas that are constantly covered with precipitation, the desired angle of the roof is at least 65 degrees to prevent the accumulation of snow and water. In an area with a more or less stable climate, a roof from 40 to 50 degrees is perfect. For each type of material, the manufacturer indicates the lowest operating angle;
we calculate the height of the ridge using a number of simple geometry formulas.

The structure of the rafter system

The rafter system of the hipped roof forms the roof frame. It consists of the following elements:

mauerlat is a bar located along the perimeter of the walls and distributing the load on them. The hipped roof has 4 beams. If the house is wooden, then the pads of the upper rims will be the Mauerlat. In a brick house, a concrete belt is created on top of the walls, into which special pins are mutated. Then the Mauerlat is attached to them;
the ridge beam, or girder, is above all the elements. The upper part of the rafters is attached to it. At a 4-pitched roof, it is less than the length of the house;
rafter legs - boards that create the geometry of the slopes. Their cross section is 50 x 150 mm. In a hipped roof, 3 types of rafters are used: slant, privates, and rafters. The installation of ordinary rafter legs is carried out on the slopes in the form of a trapezoid. Slant rafters are made from a more durable material, since the load on them is greater. The upper part of the braces rests on the ridge run, and the lower part - on the Mauerlat corner. The hip is formed by rafters. They focus on the diagonal rafter legs and support bar;

the bed is a timber that is used to lay the support wall inside the building. Functionally, the bed transfers the weight and distributes it to the foundation;
vertical supports - racks, mounting takes place on a bed. They are a support for the middle of the rafter and the girder;
rafter leg, or brace. Its installation angle is 45 degrees to the rafter. The emphasis is on the rack. Used to prevent the rafters from sagging, to transfer part of the weight to the load-bearing wall;
the truss is used to support the rafters. It is a vertical support, similar to a rack. Truss trusses are used most often;
tightening, or crossbar, - horizontal bars that grip the rafter pairs in the upper and lower parts;
filly - boards that extend the rafters and protect the walls from moisture, forming the overhang of the roof.

Installation procedure

The hipped roof begins with the installation of the Mauerlat, which is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Its section is 150 x 150 mm. When placing, it is necessary to control its level. The timber should be located 5–7 cm from the edge of the wall. We fix it on pre-walled pins. Nuts are screwed on top. Such a beam will connect the structure of the rafters and the walls of the house into a single whole.

To install the racks, you need a bed and floor beams. The size of the bar of such elements is 100 x 200 mm. The installation of the supports is carried out vertically with fastening with plates or a corner. When using a hip roof, the racks are placed in 1 row, and the girder is attached on top. The hipped roof assumes the placement of the supports diagonally. Equal distances are measured from the corner. Thus, we get a rectangle on which we lay the runs. We fix everything with a corner.

Installation of roof truss system

The next step is to make rafter templates. We install side rafters along them. A thin board is suitable for the workpiece. We apply it to the run and mark the wash down. With the second end, which is at the Mauerlat, we also note the wash down. We make the required number of rafters using a template. After choosing the fastening step, we make the installation. The step can be from 60 cm to 1 m. The connection is made with self-tapping screws.

The angle of inclination of the slope is determined by the slant rafters. Place them diagonally for additional loading. Double boards are often used for them. We also make cuts according to the template. The upper part of the slant rafters is connected with a crossbar for strength.

The hipped roof connects the slant rafters near the ridge using braces. Installation takes place at an angle of 90 degrees. We connect with wire clamps to the walls.

We attach the people to the diagonal rafters. Their length can vary, but they must be parallel to each other. Ordinary and common rafters together form side slopes.

The hipped roof with its own hands has come to an end. The last stage is its insulation with basalt wool or foamed polystyrene. We lay the material between the rafters. The waterproofing layer will protect from moisture. The lathing directly depends on the type of roof material.

In this video, you can learn more about the construction and design of a slash hip roof:

The hipped roof is a very popular type of roof that allows you to give your home an original look. It is often used in projects of rather large houses, as it looks more compact and neat than a gable with gables. The structure of a hipped roof can be simple or include various elements - dormer and dormer windows, for example, very liven up the structure, make it unique.

The gable roof compares favorably with the gable roof not only in appearance. It protects the building from rain, snow and wind much more reliably. The design of such a roof is more complicated than that of a gable, but for a small house or gazebo, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is not particularly difficult.

Varieties of hipped roof

A simple hip roof consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular - hip slopes. During its construction, techniques are used for performing layered rafters and four-slope rafters.

Hipped roof for a country house

The semi-hip roof consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two cut hip slopes, under which the pediment is located. This design makes it possible to make an attic floor with large panoramic windows in the attic and at the same time does not reduce the reliability of the roof.

A hipped roof differs from a simple hip roof in that all of its four slopes are exactly the same, they are isosceles triangles converging at one point.

A complex hipped roof can contain vertical attic windows with gables, valleys and abutments to other building elements. To complete such a roof, it is better to resort to the services of specialists or use a ready-made project and calculation of materials.

Elements of a hipped roof

The gable roof as a whole consists of the same elements as the gable, but its design features require the installation of additional frame components. The elements of a hipped roof include:

Mauerlat - a timber laid on the upper part of the outer walls and taking the main load from the roof;
Beds - internal support beams laid on load-bearing walls or columns;
Rafters - lateral and diagonal, or oblique. The side rafters form a trapezoidal roof slope, the slant rafters - hip. The hipped roof has no side rafters;
Racks and sprengels - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
Ridge beam or purlin is a horizontal support for the rafters at the top of the roof. It is laid on racks and fixed. The hipped roof is made without a ridge bar;
Puffs or crossbars are horizontal elements that connect the side rafters and prevent them from moving apart;
Narozhniki - elements laid on diagonal rafters and forming the frame of the slope;
Strut and wind beam - struts that increase the strength of the roof and its ability to withstand loads;
Fillets are planks that form the necessary overhang of the roof and are fixed to the rafters in their lower part.

Other elements can also be used, depending on the roof structure, such as battens, protective strips, eaves over windows and porches.

To calculate the required amount of materials, you need to draw a sketch of the roof in advance, determine its shape and dimensions, and then execute a drawing to scale and calculate the required material.

Hipped roof erection technology

In order for the load from the rafter system, roofing and snow swept onto the roof in winter to be evenly distributed, longitudinal elements are laid on top of all load-bearing walls - Mauerlat and beds. They are made of 100x150 mm or 150x150 mm timber, and in some cases from reinforced concrete beams. When self-building a house, wood is usually used - this material is lighter and more convenient to process, so we will consider it. The timber is placed on the walls and secured with anchor pins. Studs are installed even during the construction of walls, deepening them into the masonry. In wooden buildings, the upper crown of the frame serves as supports. Between the Mauerlat and the wall, waterproofing of two layers of roofing material must be performed. The beds are placed on the load-bearing partitions on which the support posts will be installed.
If there are no internal partitions in the house or they are not located in the center of the roof, the racks are placed on reinforced floor beams. Overlappings are usually made from a board of 50x200 mm. The beam on which the racks are installed carries an increased load, therefore it is made of two spliced \u200b\u200bboards or from a beam of 100x200 mm.
Support posts are installed on benches or floor beams. They are leveled using a plumb line or a water level, after which they are fixed with temporary supports from the boards to self-tapping screws. The racks are attached to the bed or overlap using a corner and metal plate-plates. Racks for a simple hip roof are placed in one row in the center of the roof, under the ridge. The distance between them should not be more than two meters. To erect a hipped roof, the racks are placed on the lines of the diagonals at an equal distance from the corner. At the same time, the racks should form a rectangle that repeats the shape of the perimeter of the house. The height of the posts is determined by the roof design.
Girders are laid on the racks. For a simple hip roof, this is a ridge girder laid on the posts and forming a roof ridge. For a hipped roof, the girders are placed on racks in the form of a rectangle. Fix them to the corner and screws.
Start installing the rafters. Side rafters on a simple hip roof are installed similarly to the layered rafters of a gable roof: a board with a width similar to the width of the rafter board is applied to the ridge beam in the area of \u200b\u200bthe extreme rack - 150 mm. A template is performed on it. The board for the template can be taken not so thick and heavy, 25 mm thick is enough. On the template, mark the upper cut, with which the rafter will rest on the ridge beam, cut it out. Having attached the template to the ridge, they mark the lower cut, with which the rafter will rest on the Mauerlat. The finished template is applied to the ridge girder at the places where the side rafters are installed, checking the need to fit each rafter in place. If the template fits perfectly, the rafters are marked out and cut out according to the template in the right amount. They are installed on a ridge girder and a Mauerlat and fixed with corners and self-tapping screws or on staples. The rafter pitch is from 0.5 to 1.5 meters.
Diagonal rafters carry an increased load, therefore they are made of two boards spliced \u200b\u200bin thickness. The diagonal rafter pattern is made in a similar way. Diagonal rafters rest on the top of the rack, and the bottom on the angle of the Mauerlat, so the saws in the boards must be done at an angle of 45 degrees to the plane of the board.
The distance between the diagonal rafters on the hip slopes is filled with rafters. They are installed with a step equal to the calculated step of the rafters, and are supported by the upper part on the diagonal rafter, and the lower part - on the Mauerlat. Usually, a less thick board is used, since the wives do not carry a significant load. At the top of the board, they make a gash, and according to this template, they perform half of the women, the second half - in a mirror image. The bottom cuts are marked in place, and the ends of the overhangs, which form an overhang, are cut along a stretched lace after installation.
The lower quarter of the diagonal rafters are experiencing the greatest load, therefore, vertical supports - trusses are placed under them. These racks are placed similarly to ridge racks on reinforced beams - when calculating the floors, you need to immediately lay them. Under the side rafters, they put struts, resting them with the lower edge against the bed or floor beams, and with the upper edge against the rafter leg at an angle of about 45 degrees to the horizon.
The crate is performed. Almost any roofing material can be used on a hipped roof, and the choice between or is a matter of taste and the peculiarities of their installation. Often, soft tiles are used as a covering for complex roofs, in this case the sheathing is made of solid plywood. The question is decided depending on the project of the house - when arranging a residential attic in it, insulation is necessary, but if the attic is cold, it is not easy to build a hipped roof with your own hands, but with good skill in working with wood and roofing materials, this is a completely feasible task. For a better understanding of the construction process, you can also watch the video.

Many people like houses with hipped roofs. Despite the fact that they require the most materials, and therefore the most money, they are popular. Firstly, because they give even a simple "box" a more interesting look. Secondly, because they are durable and reliable. And even if the rafter system of the hipped roof is one of the most complex, it can be developed and made by hand.

Types of hipped roofs

Hipped roofs are the most expensive and difficult to construct. But despite this, they were and remain popular. And all due to the fact that they look more attractive than all other types of roofs, they have high mechanical strength, they resist well wind and snow loads. A house with a hipped roof or even a gazebo looks "more solid" than any other.

Even a simple "box" under a 4-pitched roof looks impressive

There are two main types of 4-pitched roofs: hip and hip roof. Hip-roof is suitable for square buildings, hip - for rectangular ones. In the hipped roof, all four slopes look like triangles and they all converge at one point - in the center of the square.

The classic hip roof has two trapezoidal ramps that converge on the ridge. These slopes are located along the long side of the rectangle. The other two slopes are triangles that adjoin the extreme points of the ridge beam.

Despite the fact that there are four slopes in any case, the structure and calculation of these roofs is different. The assembly order is also different.

Half-hip

The hip roof is much more common - after all, there are much more rectangular buildings than square ones. There are several more varieties of it. For example, half-hip - Danish and Dutch.

Half-hip roofs - Danish and Dutch

They are good because they make it possible to install full-fledged windows in the vertical part of the side slopes. This allows the under-roof space to be used as living space. Of course, compared to a full-fledged second floor, the living space is less, but the construction costs are also not so great.

Slope angle and roof height

The slope of the hipped roof is determined based on the snow and wind loads in your area. The higher the snow load, the higher the skate must be raised - so that the slope is steeper and snow does not linger in large volumes. In case of strong winds, on the contrary, the skate is lowered lower - in order to reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and, therefore, the wind load.

Even when choosing the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, they are guided by aesthetic and practical considerations. With aesthetics, everything is more or less clear - the building should look proportional. And it looks better with sufficiently high roofs - 0.5-0.8 heights of the first (or only) floor.

Practical considerations can be of two kinds. First, if the under-roof space is planned to be used as a living space, pay attention to the area that will be comfortable for use. More or less comfortable in a room with a ceiling height of 1.9 m. And even then, this is for people of average height. If you are taller than 175 cm, the bar will have to be raised.

On the other hand, the greater the height of the roof, the more materials will be required for its manufacture. And this is the second practical aspect that needs to be considered.

There is one more point that should be taken into account: roofing materials have a minimum and maximum slope angle with which this coating can "work". If you have certain preferences for the type of roofing material, consider this factor. It depends on what height the rafter system of the hipped roof should be raised (relative to the walls).

Rafter system of a hip-type hipped roof

If a hipped roof is made, most often it is a hip roof. Let's talk about it first. The central part of the rafter system repeats the system one by one. The system can also be with layered or hanging rafters. Hanging rafters are installed "in place" - on the roof, two people are enough for such work. The roof trusses, in the form of triangles, can be assembled on the ground and then, ready-made, lifted and installed. In this case, there is less work at height, but in order to raise and install the finished trusses, you need either equipment (crane) or a team of four or more people.

The main differences between the rafter system of the hip roof are in those places where the rafters are shortened (rafter half-legs) and the hip is formed - triangular slopes. Here diagonal rafters are installed, which are also called overhead rafters. They rest on the outer or inner corners of the building and are longer than conventional rafter legs. Special attention should be paid to the diagonal rafters, since they have a one and a half load (when compared with neighboring rafters). Therefore, the corner rafter legs are made reinforced - they are assembled from two boards, splicing them in width with the help of nails. Also, to support the diagonal rafter legs, additional racks and slopes are installed, which are called a truss block.

Another rafter system of a hip-type hipped roof is distinguished by the fact that the Mauerlat is laid along the perimeter of the building, and not only along the long sides of the box. This is understandable - the rafters are located along the perimeter, and not only on two sides, as in a gable roof.

Mauerlat - an element of the building's roofing system. It is a bar or log laid on top along the perimeter of the outer wall. Serves as an extreme lower support for rafters.

Diagonal rafters

As already mentioned, the slant (corner) rafters carry an increased load: from the shortened rafters of the side slopes and from the hips. In addition, the length of the diagonal rafters of the hip roof usually exceeds the standard length of lumber - it is more than 6 meters, therefore they are made spliced \u200b\u200band doubled (paired). This solves two problems at once: we get a beam of the required length, we increase its bearing capacity. Two paired boards withstand higher loads than a solid bar of the same section. And one more thing: spliced \u200b\u200bbeams for nesting rafters are made of the same material as ordinary rafter legs. It's cheaper and you don't have to look for special material.

If spliced \u200b\u200bbeams are used, diagonal rafters are usually secured by installing struts and / or trusses (pillars).

If the length of the beam is up to 7.5 m, one brace is sufficient, which rests against the top of the beam.
With a length of 7.5 m to 9 m, an additional rack or truss is installed. These props are placed at the bottom, 1/4 of the rafter length.
When the length of the inclined rafter is more than 9 meters, a third, intermediate support is needed - a rack that supports the middle of the run.

Sprengel - a special system that consists of a beam supported by two adjacent external walls. A stand rests on this beam, supported on both sides by slopes (slopes are set if necessary).

The truss truss is usually not counted, but made from the same materials as the truss system. For the beam itself 150 * 100 mm, racks - 100 * 100 mm, for mowing - 50 * 100 mm. It can be a timber of a suitable section or spliced \u200b\u200bbeams.

Supporting the rafter leg

Diagonal sling legs with their upper end rest on the ridge beam. The exact design of this assembly depends on the type of system and the number of runs.

If there is one run, the consoles are made 10-15 cm longer than the rafter frame. If such a release is too large, then it is cut. But doing it shorter is not worth it - growing is much more difficult and expensive. The diagonal slant legs will rest at this point.

The rafters are cut at the desired angle, butted on the console. Fastened with nails. The connection can be reinforced with metal cover plates.

If there are two ridge spans (they do if an attic-type dwelling is planned), the connection method depends on the material from which the rafters are made:

If spliced \u200b\u200bboards are used, a sprengel is needed that rests on the outlets of the ridge girders. Diagonal rafters are trimmed and rest on the truss post.
If a timber is used, a sinker is installed in the place of support - a piece of board with a thickness of at least 50 mm. The board is fastened with nails to two girders, and to this board there are already rafter legs that will form a hip.

The lower part of the rafter rafter legs is trimmed horizontally and attached to the Mauerlat or harness board. For greater reliability of the node, you can install an additional oblique beam and fix the corner beam to it (in the figure below).

Fastening - with nails on both sides, if necessary, you can additionally fix it with wire twists or clamps.

How to fix the cuffs and half-legs

To the installed diagonal rafter legs, on the one hand, shortened rafters of the side slopes (also called half-legs) are attached, on the other - rafters - rafters that form a hip. They must be positioned in such a way that the joints do not coincide. Sometimes for this you have to change the distance between the rafters (better - in the direction of decreasing the step).

Usually shortened rafters are trimmed and fastened with 2-3 nails on both sides. This attachment is sufficient in most cases. But, if you want to do it "correctly", you need to make a "cut" for each rafter - a notch for no more than half the thickness of the beam. The rafters are cut, set in the desired position, the desired contour is drawn on the beam (an uneven trapezoid is obtained due to different connection angles). Along the resulting contour, a recess is cut into which the half-leg is inserted, after which it is fastened with nails on both sides. This is a complex knot, and it takes a long time to make it. But the bearing capacity of such a connection is much higher. There is another option, which is many times simpler in execution, but differs little in reliability.

The optimal way of attaching handcuffs and half-legs to the support beam can be considered to be their fastening to nails with the additional installation of cranial bars (see the figure above). For this, a bar with a cross section of 50 * 50 mm is used, which is nailed along the lower edge of the beam between the fixed rafters. In this version, the beam becomes I-beam, which greatly increases its elasticity and increases its bearing capacity.

How to attach the lower ends of the rafters

The method of fastening the lower ends of the rafters depends on what type of rafter system of the hipped roof is chosen - with hanging or layered rafters, which scheme is used. A system with sliding rafters (usually used for buildings for which spacer loads are contraindicated - wood, frame, lightweight concrete) is implemented using special metal fasteners. They are in two parts. One is installed on the mortgage board, the second on the rafters. They are connected to each other movably - using a long slot or plate.

With such a device, when the load changes, the roof "wins back" - the rafters move relative to the walls. There are no thrust loads, the entire mass of the roof and precipitation is transferred to the walls vertically down. Such fastening allows you to compensate for uneven loads that arise with a complex roof structure (with abutments in the form of the letter G or T).

Rigid fastening can be done in different ways - with a cutout for the Mauerlat / strapping board or with a hemmed support bar. Fastening is usually with nails, it can be strengthened with metal plates and corners.

The connection with the cutout is made if the hipped roof has an outlet - overhangs. Usually, the overhangs are quite large and, in order not to buy long beams, they are extended by adding boards that are nailed through to the bottom of the beams. This allows you to make overhangs as long as you want without wasting much on materials.

Danish half-hip roof

The rafter system of the Danish hipped roof differs from the classic hip roof. The difference in the design of the hip - here, at some distance from the ridge, a support board with a thickness of at least 5 cm is stuffed. Diagonal double rafters are attached to this board. How low to lower the support board is up to you. But, the lower the board is lowered, the smaller the angle this slope will have, and the worse the precipitation will be. With a large area of \u200b\u200ba half-hip, you will have to count the load and select the thickness of the rafters.

On the other hand, a low-lowered support board allows you to put a horizontal window of sufficient area. This is beneficial if a living space is located under the hipped hipped roof.

To prevent the sinker (a board connecting two opposite rafter legs) from bending from loads directed downward, a shorty is installed - a piece of the same board that is nailed to a rack supporting the ridge bar. The same stops are made on the edges of the drills, having well secured the short stubs with nails (the installation step is staggered after 5-10 cm).

With such a device, it is necessary to strengthen the attachment points of the layered rafters, since the load from them is transferred to the extreme pair of rafter legs. Two methods of amplification are used:

The extreme rafters are made double.
Install struts from double boards. The lower part of the brace rests against a bed or a rack. They are fastened with nails, the joints are reinforced by installing scraps of boards.

If the house is rectangular and the hip is not too wide, you can either install struts or make the outer rafters from double beams. Otherwise, the rafter system of a hipped roof of a half-hip Danish type is assembled in the same way as described above.

The device of 4 pitched hipped roof on the example of a gazebo

For a square gazebo 4.5 * 4.5 meters, a hipped roof covered with soft tiles was made. The slope angle was chosen "floor material", taking into account snow and wind loads - 30 °. Since the structure is small, it was decided to make a simple system (in the picture below). The distance between the rafter legs is 2.25 m. With a rafter length of up to 3.5 m, a board of 40 * 200 mm is needed. A beam of 90 * 140 mm was used for the strapping.

They assembled the rafter system on the ground, fixed it on the supporting pillars, then installed a solid flooring from, after -.

First, we assembled a harness that will be attached to the support posts. Next, we installed the rafters, which rest on the middle of the strapping. The procedure here is as follows: in the middle we put a stand, on the top of which the rafter legs will join. In this version, this rack is temporary, we only need it for a while - until we connect the first four rafters in the center. In other cases - for large houses - this rack may remain.

We take a board of the desired section, lean it against the rack in the place where they will join (depending on the desired angle of inclination). We mark how to cut it (at the top, at the junction and where it joins the harness). We cut off all unnecessary, try again, adjust if necessary. Further on this blank we make three more of the same.

Now the rafter system of the hipped roof can be assembled. Most of the questions arise about the junction of the rafter legs in the center. The best way - reliable and not too complicated - is to take a piece of timber of a suitable section, make an octagon out of it - for joining eight rafter legs (four corner and four central).

The size of the edges - along the section of the cut of the rafter legs

Having fixed all four central elements of the rafter system with the help of nails, we do the same operations with the corner rafters: we take one, try it on, cut it out, make three copies according to the template made, and mount it.

By the same principle, we make half-legs (shortened rafters). If desired, all connections can be additionally reinforced with corners or metal plates, then the rafter system of the hipped roof will be more reliable and you can not be afraid even in the heaviest snowfalls.

We put the assembled system on the pillars of the gazebo, fasten it with nails, corners, and fasten it with slopes. After that, you can mount the crate (in this case, solid) and lay the roofing material.

The roof is exactly the same important element of the house as its walls and foundation, and therefore its choice should be taken responsibly. The most practical is the hipped roof, the drawing and arrangement of which we will tell in much more detail.

Hipped roof - is it worth using this option?

This type of roof consists of two triangular slopes and two trapezoidal slopes. The main feature is that during construction there is no need to equip the front of the roof, due to which the construction process itself is greatly simplified. Any form of roofing has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Of course, the main advantage of the four-slope building is considered to be external beauty, but improved thermal insulation properties cannot be ignored. The advantages include the fact that the attic becomes larger when using such a structure, the main thing is to reduce its lower size. Additional advantages include:

Functionality, stability and durability;
High resistance to loads (snow, strong wind pressure, rain);
Uniform heating of the area, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the attic.

But, like any building structure, such a roof has its drawbacks. And the most important of them is the complexity of installation due to the rather large weight. Therefore, you definitely cannot do without installation assistants. Other disadvantages include:

When erecting such a structure in the northern regions, it is necessary to use insulation materials, which leads to an increase in the cost of work;
If you are going to build an attic, you will have to spend money on building walls and installing windows.

Types of hipped roof - what to choose?

A four-pitched roof is considered, although the most complex structure, but also the most durable, providing room for the imagination of designers, because with its help you can create a wide variety of structures. Having decided on the type of roof, it will be possible to proceed with its construction.

Roof types:

Hip, which is four triangular figures that converge at one point, thereby forming a pyramid. Depending on what the base of the roof will be, the shape of the slopes also depends.
Hip, which belongs to the most complex structures, is most often used when you are building a rectangular house. It consists of several triangular slopes and two trapezoidal ones. Despite some difficulties during construction, it is this type of roof that is considered the most practical.
Danish (half-hip), characterized by uneven surfaces that divide the roof plane into several triangles. This design is best suited for buildings built in northern areas.

Four-pitched roof: drawing, calculation and projects

First, we need to carry out design work: we carry out and draw a drawing. Remember about the slope, which varies from 5 ° to 60 °, it all depends on the type of roof, the purpose of the attic and atmospheric loads:

So, in the northern regions, characterized by strong winds, roofs should be made with a small slope.
For heavy loads, the roof should have a slope of 45 ° -60 °.

The choice of material for covering the structure largely depends on this parameter. If the slope is 5 ° -10 °, you should choose asbestos-cement sheets or roll covering, the roofing metal is chosen for a roof with a slope of 14 ° -60 °, a tile roof is suitable for a slope of 30 ° -60 °. During the design work, you need to decide which rafters will be used in the construction of the roof - hanging or inclined.

You need to find out if you need additional elements to maintain the strength of the structure: braces or tightenings. The design process allows you to take into account all kinds of loads on the rafters, which include:

Roofing material weight;
The weight of other elements that make up the roofing "pie" (material for insulation, steam and waterproofing);
Rainfall;
Rooftop equipment (stairs, skylights, aerators).

You should also take into account the slope of the slopes - this will help to calculate all the parameters of the rafters. Such a project necessarily includes drawings of the rafters, the nodes of their connection with other elements, the location of the lathing. If you have such a project on hand, you will be able to calculate the required materials for arranging the rafters and roofing.

However, it is worth remembering that any mistake at this stage can lead to negative consequences in the process of purchasing materials, which will lead to additional costs. And if you understand that you cannot carry out the work with your own hands, it is best to contact the specialists - they will be able to calculate all the loads and draw up a competent project that will meet all the specified requirements.

Rafter system and hipped roof device

When creating such a structure, oblique (diagonal) rafters are used, which are directed to the corners of the structure. They must be created from a double beam, since this type of rafter must withstand a large load due to the weight of the roof. Their other feature is the use of short rafters (short rafters), which abut against the slant rafters - this will allow the structure to withstand even more weight.

If you decide to build a roof and a rafter system yourself, be sure to calculate the loads, since all your further work will depend on this. The following loads can affect the system: the weight of the roof, the weight of the battens, purlins, as well as loads in the form of snow and wind. For the middle zone of our country, according to the calculations of specialists, the load is approximately 180 kg per square meter, in winter this figure rises to 450 kilograms.

Please note: during the design period of the rafters, you must carry out several calculations, the first of which is aimed at identifying the strength, and the second at determining the degree of their deformation.

Suitable materials:

For their creation, many choose a rectangular beam or wooden boards, the cross section of which is 5 * 15 * 20 cm. It is best to choose conifers (pines, larch, spruce).
Steel elements can be used to increase rigidity. Such structures will be much stiffer and stronger than wood systems.
After installing the structure, we proceed to the manufacture of the lathing, for which it is necessary to use wooden boards up to 5 cm wide. The main thing is to ensure that the material is dry and practical, which guarantees its durability.

Before this, a film is laid, thanks to which the roof will be insulated from moisture and steam. It is fastened with a construction stapler. Only after that we can proceed with the arrangement of the roof. The next step is the installation of the roofing material, which we will choose based on our preferences and financial capabilities, taking into account, among other things, the strength and shape of the roof. The material is fastened securely and carefully, pay special attention to ensuring that snow and rain do not penetrate into the roof.

Installation of roof systems

As we have already said, such a roof consists of braces, rafters, support beams and other parts that give the structure rigidity and reliability. To create a roof, you must first of all install the rafters - the result of all your work depends on this.