Options for facing the foundation of the house. How to decorate the basement at home: from exclusive to budget options with step-by-step instructions. Basement cladding with stucco

Good day. Not so long ago I bought a summer cottage of 20 acres with two buildings - a brick house and a small wooden building for guests. In general, both houses are in decent condition, without serious damage to building and finishing materials. The only problem - . In both cases, it was partially missing or damaged. At the moment, I'm interested in how to inexpensively finish the basement of a brick and wooden house? I would not particularly like to spend money, since the buildings are quite large and enough material will be required. If it's not difficult, they could not tell us the nuances of mounting these materials.

Hello. As far as I understand from your description, both buildings have a tape type foundation.

For a brick house, it would be necessary to remove the rebounded sections of the plaster or beat off the entire old finish completely. In the case of a wooden structure, it is better to completely dismantle the cladding, since according to your criteria, it is cheapest to perform cladding or imitation of a natural coating.

How this was done is not clear to you, but I think that the quality of the surface has become much better. Additionally, before describing the cladding technology, I will talk in more detail about preparing the surface for further finishing work.

Although in your case an important criterion is the availability and cheapness of the material, I strongly recommend not to make a choice of coating only on the basis of these factors.

The protruding type of construction is most exposed to precipitation and the environment

Finishing the plinth is not just a decorative cladding of the outer surface. In this case, the material plays the role of not just lining and performs a number of tasks:

Protection of the structure - ensuring the protection of the basement of the building from external influences in the form of precipitation, humidity, temperature differences and direct sunlight;
Protection against various substances and microorganisms - the use of modern materials allows to reduce the impact of harmful and aggressive substances that can cause the destruction of the concrete base. Finishing treatment with an antiseptic and protective compounds eliminates the formation of mold foci and the development of fungus;
Protection from cold - the use of combined finishing materials and insulation allows you to level the risk of complete freezing of the carrier base, and the development of erosion processes in concrete. If necessary, complete insulation can be carried out using a sufficient layer of polystyrene foam materials.

Taking into account and taking into account this information, it is possible to significantly extend the life of the bearing base, avoid the formation of "cold bridges", reduce the cost of seasonal surface repair and heating of the building.

Finishing and cladding materials

The most popular materials for finishing the basement of buildings

The materials used for cladding and sheathing the basement of the house can be conditionally classified into two groups. The first is facing coatings, which are installed on a liquid base in the form of plaster, cement-sand mixture, etc. The second is facing coverings that are installed on a pre-mounted frame or crate.

This is a conditional division, since the use of various materials primarily depends on the cost and requirements that apply to it.

In your case, given that the lining of the basement of the house should be inexpensive and affordable, you can use the following materials:

plaster is the most affordable and easiest way to finish and refine the basement. The plaster is distinguished by good vapor permeability, the possibility of application over the insulation, a wide choice of colors and a decorative layer;
stone imitation - performed using plaster or cement-sand mortar. Differs in simplicity of implementation with a possibility of creation of absolutely exclusive surface. It is possible to apply both on “bare” concrete and on thermal insulation;
basement siding - PVC panels with the ability to imitate almost any finishing coating. Mounted on a supporting frame. At the installation stage, it is possible to perform heat and waterproofing works;
brick - allows you to create high-quality and reliable protection with the possibility of building a full-fledged heat-insulating layer and a ventilated gap. It requires a high-quality support device and adherence to masonry technology. Can be replaced with facing plates that imitate natural bricks and are mounted on a special adhesive;
plinth thermal panel - visually resembles plinth siding, fixed on a polystyrene foam plate. It is advisable to use when a device is required, both a heat-insulating layer and finishing work.

These are far from all the coatings that can be used in the work, but they are quite enough for lining the basement, both brick and wooden structures. If you still take into account the time costs, then it makes sense to collect and prepare a sufficient amount of natural stone.

This approach is not simple, but can be used in areas where you can get yourself a stone such as limestone, shell rock or sandstone.

Below is a table that takes into account the average cost of cladding material. For the calculation, 1 sq / m2 was taken, as a more convenient value for evaluation.

Preparation and sequence of work with plaster

The technology for performing work using starting and decorative plaster is the easiest to implement. As a plaster composition, you can use ordinary plaster for outdoor work, bark beetle plaster, plaster with marble chips, etc.

With due diligence, you can imitate natural stone, clinker or masonry bricks.

For finishing work, you will need to prepare the necessary plaster composition. For normal leveling, you will need to purchase a cement-sand mixture M300-500, a dry composition for starting plastering, facade paint for outdoor work, an antiseptic composition, a reinforcing mesh with 10 × 10 mm cells and a wire thickness of up to 1 mm.

When creating a decorative layer, you will need special decorative mixtures, which are sold ready-made. It can be "bark beetle" from various manufacturers, finishing putty, etc.

The solution is applied with any convenient spatula. A rule is used for alignment. The texture is created using a wooden trowel.

Cleaning and treatment of the working surface with a solution of penetrating primer

Consistently, the work on facing the basement with a plaster composition will be carried out in several stages:

The work site and work surface are being prepared. For an old basement, where the damage area is large enough, it will be necessary to dismantle all the old finishes. For a surface with small flaws, only exfoliated and falling off places can be eliminated;
Small cracks and flaws on the surface are being eliminated. For this, a cement-sand mortar or plaster composition is used. Before grouting, the place of damage and the flaw itself are treated with a deep penetration primer;

The mixing of the plaster mortar is carried out in two approaches, after which it is completely ready for application.

If necessary, insulation, after the grout has dried, the expanded polystyrene is fixed to the surface of the basement. For this, building dowels with a plastic wide cap are used. Expanded polystyrene is mounted using the "butt-to-butt" method. After installation, the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe base is treated with a primer;
A reinforcing mesh is installed on the repaired plinth or heat-insulating layer. For this, steel strips of the required length are used. To reinforce the corners, you can use a steel corner. After installing the reinforcement, the base is once again treated with a primer;
Plaster beacons are being installed. For installation, the main plaster composition is used. When mounted on a heater, beacons can be installed at the locations of steel strips;

Alignment of linear guides and application of plaster mixture

The preparation of the plaster composition is in progress. To do this, use a power tool with a mixer attachment. The application of the solution is carried out with slap-like movements up to a certain mass on the plane. Next, a metal rule is taken and the plaster mixture is leveled with light zigzag movements. After the excess mixture is removed and the process is repeated over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe base;
After 4-6 hours, provided that the application of a decorative layer is not planned, the plaster is grouted using a wooden trowel. When applying a decorative layer over a leveled surface, you should wait until the starting base is completely dry. At 18-20°C, this is approximately 5-7 days;

Finishing stage - moistening and grouting the plastered surface

The application of the decorative layer is carried out using a conventional spatula. The layer thickness varies depending on the composition and is indicated on the packaging. After stretching the mixture over the surface, you should wait for it to set. Further, with the help of a trowel, the composition is mashed;
At the final stage of finishing, the plaster layer is painted and primed. These actions can be carried out already after 24-48 hours after applying the composition. The full set of strength of the plastered surface is 25-28 days.

Finishing and imitation of a brick or natural stone is carried out at the stage of leveling the composition. So, on a still fresh surface, the rule is passed. Next, the seams are stitched with a small object 1-1.5 cm wide.

After the formation of the required number of seams, a coarse brush is passed over the surface. This will give the required invoice. The process is repeated over the entire area of the basement. Facade paint is used as a finish.

The formation and imitation of masonry is carried out at a similar stage. To do this, the plaster mixture is applied in excess. Further, an arbitrary semicircular or flat shape of the stone is formed from it and the joints are made. As a top coat, to give certain shades, you can use paint for outdoor use.

The basement of the house requires reliable protection from moisture penetration, getting wet, sunlight and mechanical damage. To obtain a solid foundation and a uniform weight load, various facing materials are used. In this article, we will analyze in detail how to veneer the basement of a house, provide a description of the materials, their advantages and disadvantages.

Types of basement structures

The most reliable type is the sinking base. Its device perfectly protects the structure from mechanical and atmospheric damage, and for its device there is no need to build a drain. The western view looks great and complements the building.

The protruding base is equipped in frame houses with thin walls. This type requires a drain device to remove precipitation from the foundation as much as possible.

An important point in the construction of the basement is its waterproofing. Before choosing a facing material, the following points should be considered:

brickwork expands the basement structure;
a heater is laid inside the frame, which reduces heat loss;
frame system allows you to carry out any repair work at any time;

The main purpose of plinth cladding is:

minimize the negative impact on the foundation of the house of precipitation, humidity, temperature changes and direct sunlight;
preventing dirt and chemicals from entering the walls of the house, which can cause destructive processes in the foundation;
protection of the foundation from the formation of mold, stains, fungus and insects;

Full characteristics of the facing material

Facing the basement of the house and what material is better to choose this question arises for every owner of a country house. We offer to consider popular materials for finishing the foundation.

Finishing with decorative plaster

Plaster is used for any type of building. This mixture is in good contact with other building materials. The advantage of plastering is:

high vapor permeability;
responds well to temperature changes;
easily repaired;
easy to apply to the surface;
the ability to combine with other materials;
affordable price.

short operating period;
requires constant updating of the coating (painting);
if dirt gets on the surface, it may be difficult to wash them out.

The finishing process consists of simple steps:

before plastering, insulate and level the surface;
fix the plaster tiles;
use paint with resistance to frost and moisture;

The photo shows the plastered facade

siding finish

For cladding the basement, siding panels designed for these works are used. The advantage of such a facade is:

high strength and reliability, the panel is able to protect the entire surface;
easy to care for, can be easily washed;
resistant to shock and damage;
panels do not fade in the sun;
installation of panels is possible on any type of foundation;
Replacing parts won't be a hassle.

Among the shortcomings can be noted:

installation will take a lot of time and effort;
the cost of the finishing material is higher due to the installation of additional elements (frame, slats);
the material is flammable.

Facing the facade with siding should be after:

crate installation;
perform high-quality sealing of all connections;
perform and take into account the dimensions of the gaps.

Note. Recently, manufacturers have begun to produce brick panels. This finish looks very beautiful and original. The product resembles a stone, sometimes it is even difficult to distinguish it. This similarity is achieved by the fact that in the production of siding panels they make an impression that clearly conveys the entire structure and roughness of the stone. The photo shows a panel element under the rubble stone.

Facade decoration using stone

Facing the foundation of the house with artificial stone is the best and inexpensive option. The lined facade of the house has the following advantages:

a large selection of shapes, textures and color palette of the product;
high strength of the product;
long service life;
easily repaired;
easy installation.

Disadvantages of artificial stone:

laying of material is possible only at positive temperature;
The work is quite laborious and takes a lot of time.

Natural stone for facade cladding will increase the cost of purchasing materials. It is worth noting that manufacturers have learned to produce artificial stone, the appearance of which does not differ and completely resembles the structure of natural stone. The facade with its use looks natural and natural. The photo shows a stone facade

Not everyone can do stone laying on their own. As a rule, specialists are attracted for such work.

The use of clinker tiles

Facing the basement with clinker tiles will cost almost the same as brickwork. This material has a number of advantages:

the manufacturer produces ready-made corners, external and internal elements;
products are easily fixed to the foundation;
due to its low weight, the facade experiences a slight load;
a variety of decorative coatings;
tiles do not require additional finishing;
long service life;
provides reliable protection to the foundation;
tiles are easy to clean when dirty;
has high resistance to mechanical damage and shock;
large selection of color palettes.

For information! Clinker tiles can give an interesting appearance to the facade of a private house. With the right installation of products, it is difficult to distinguish it from natural stone.

It is worth noting that clinker tiles allow you to perform additional decoration of walls and even corners of the building. The material blends perfectly with the tiles and gives the house an attractive appearance.

When laying it, a special adhesive is used that is resistant to freezing. The tile is glued like a regular tile, the only thing is there is a small nuance, the ground level is variable around the entire perimeter of the building. Before laying, it is necessary to seal the seams with grouting mortar.

In the photo, the facade part, finished with clinker tiles

For information! Clinker tiles are perfectly combined and get along with other building materials.

Decking

The most economical option for facing the facade of a building is the use of corrugated board. To perform the work, a galvanized or polymer-coated product is used. Such cladding reliably protects the foundation from destruction and has a long service life.

The surface of the material is resistant to corrosion processes. To fix the corrugated board, waterproofing, thermal insulation and fasteners will be required. The end result is quite attractive. The photo shows a house sheathed with corrugated board

Low tide device

The ebb device is able to reliably protect the protruding part of the foundation from moisture and water. Castings are made from different materials:

metal castings are made of galvanized steel, on the surface of which a polymer coating is applied, which prevents products from corrosion;
aluminum products are produced from sheet copper, this is a rather expensive product that will be a great addition to the copper roof of the building;
plastic ebbs are the cheapest material that have a short service life, most often plastic ebbs are used in combination with PVC siding;
ebb, made of profiled ceramic blocks will be a good addition and protection for brick or clinker tiles on the facade of the building.

As you can see, there are a large number of options for cladding the basement of a house. The choice of material directly depends on the financial possibilities and features of the project of a private house.

The basement of a house made of brick or concrete needs reliable protection from destructive environmental factors. Far from always such protection is provided during the construction of the building, and often the owners are forced to mount it themselves. We will tell you how and how to veneer the basement of a brick house.

Why is it necessary

Brick house designs with a basement often involve using this floor as part of the living space of the house. This means that the basement will be connected to the heating system, therefore, in case of poor thermal insulation, energy losses are inevitable.

Moreover, the maximum losses will occur through the above-ground part of the walls of the basement gap. The floor in the basement is deep enough underground and does not freeze through in winter due to natural insulation with an infinitely thick layer of earth. The ceiling is also protected by a warm ground floor, and the heat does not escape through it.

Only the walls of the basement masonry remain, and here the purpose of their cladding becomes clear:

The finishing coating allows you to protect the basement masonry material from moisture penetration. The plinth located at the very bottom of the structure is most susceptible to contact with water, which penetrates from the thickness of the concrete foundation, flows down the walls of the house during rain, contacts the masonry in the form of snow drifts, falls in the form of splashes bouncing off the ground, etc .;
Brick houses with a basement require high-quality insulation, and insulation, in turn, requires finishing and protection. Here we see the need for a strong and reliable lining that will hide the thermal insulation and protect it from wear and damage;
The design of the basement is subject to heavy loads, as the whole house presses on it. In addition, if the basement is unheated, then its walls may freeze, and the accumulated moisture will expand and damage the structure of the material. Therefore, it is better to protect the masonry from moisture and frost with the help of an appropriate finish;
The proximity of the ground leads to the fact that various kinds of debris, dirty rain splashes, dust, etc. fall on the lower part of the wall. Porous brick or concrete absorbs all these substances and becomes dirty. The presence of a durable coating makes this problem insignificant, since the dense surface of the facing material is easy to clean.

It also often happens that projects of brick houses with a plinth contain such a scheme in which. The above-ground part of such a foundation does not fit well with the brickwork of the walls and needs to be lined with a suitable material.

Important! Finishing the plinth is needed not only as an element of decor, but, to a greater extent, as a functional protective structure that protects the masonry from premature wear and aging.

Finishes

The options for finishing the basement of a brick house are very diverse. The construction market is full of all kinds of materials and technologies that can be used for these purposes. In addition, natural raw materials are widely used, including various types of natural stone, sandstone, pebbles, etc.

Of the modern technologies, such varieties as a ventilated facade, siding, blockhouse, metal profile, stamped concrete, ceramic facade tiles, porcelain stoneware and others are most in demand.

As practice shows, laying natural materials such as marble, granite, pebbles or sandstone requires extraordinary abilities and a lot of experience, that is, you will have to hire expensive craftsmen. At the same time, the price of the stone itself is also very high, and as a result, facing work can be too expensive.

Based on these considerations, we have identified the most practical and affordable ways to finish the basement masonry:

Ventilated facade. The coating of porcelain stoneware and other conditionally natural materials looks great;
Siding. Easy and quick to install, relatively cheap and perfectly imitates all types of natural coatings;
Metallic profile. The cheapest and simplest coating, while quite strong and reliable, although not entirely aesthetic.

Important! The use of modern facade systems allows not only to reduce the cost of work, but also to place a layer of thermal insulation under the coating, which is very important for the basement.

Cladding installation

Let's proceed with the installation of the cladding. We will work with our own hands, as a material we use polymer sand plinth tiles, which are fastened using the ventilated facade technology ().

We put the walls of the basement in order, eliminate cracks and other flaws, remove all protruding objects;

We mount the frame guide profiles. We use a galvanized steel profile measuring 28x67 mm. It is important to maintain a strictly vertical arrangement of the surface of the frame structure, and place all its details in the same plane;

Installing the frame.

Finishing the foundation with panels is a reliable and effective way to protect the basement of a residential building from adverse external factors: water, wind, sunlight and mechanical damage. Facing work can be done independently - detailed instructions will help even a non-professional to cope with the task.

Finishing materials for the foundation: types and benefits

All panels intended for sheathing the basement of the house are moisture resistant, able to withstand sudden temperature changes, and withstand mechanical stress. However, their properties depend on the material - some types, in addition to protective and decorative functions, have good thermal insulation qualities.

Vinyl

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride are affordable, lightweight and can last about 30 years. They are not subject to rotting, mold or fungus does not form on the surface. Easy care - can be washed with water.

Mounted in accordance with all the rules, such panels will reliably protect the foundation from moisture and wind. They are easy to install yourself, and damaged elements are easy to replace with new ones.

However, such products also have a serious drawback - they are inferior to other materials in strength.

Severe frosts make them brittle, they also cannot withstand mechanical stress and can crack.

metal

Front panels can be made of anodized aluminum or galvanized steel. Steel sheets are heavier, and therefore the structure erected from them will create a greater load on the foundation.

The edge of the panels is perforated and solid, the disadvantage of the latter is the need to independently make holes for fasteners.

Wood-polymer

Elements consisting of wood fibers have a moisture-repellent coating, have good sound and heat insulation properties. They are affordable, easy to use, resistant to temperature changes.

However, such a lining is not very durable - it can last about 10-15 years.

Plastic

Three-layer structures, consisting of PVC sheet, protected on both sides with a plastic coating. Durable, lightweight and impact resistant material that is easy to install.

Among the advantages:

long service life;
affordable price;
fire resistance;
a large selection of textures and colors: plastic panels can imitate almost any material: brick, masonry.

Cement

Cement-bonded panels are a strong and durable material that qualitatively protects the foundation from external influences. They do not form mold, they are fire-resistant, low-toxic. Due to the low thermal conductivity of DSP, the foundation lined with them does not need additional insulation.

Sandwich panels

Such structures consist of a layer of insulation and facing material, and therefore have good protective properties.

They protect the foundation from moisture, heat loss, external influences. They can have different coatings: metal, moisture-resistant plywood (Plywood: types, sheet sizes, how to cut it with your own hands), ceramic tiles or OSB.

basement siding

Siding made of polypropylene has the same qualities as vinyl panels (mould resistant, does not collapse on contact with moisture, protects from winds, various textures), but surpasses them in strength.

The disadvantage is the high cost.

Necessary tools and materials

For facing the foundation of the house you will need:

plinth panels;
wooden beam with dimensions from 40 * 40 mm or a metal profile to create a frame;
starting and top strips - the first is installed at the bottom of the future cladding and serves as a support for the panels, the second closes the profile from above;
corners for closing corner joints of panels;
fasteners (dowels for the frame, self-tapping screws with a press washer or galvanized nails with a wide head for fixing panels);
hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting panels;
screwdriver and hammer;
building level 80 cm long or more;
ruler, pencil;
puncher for creating holes for dowels;
roulette;
chopping cord;
square.

Simultaneously with the facade cladding, it can also be insulated, then heat and waterproofing materials will be required.

Finishing the foundation with panels: step by step instructions

Facade panels for the plinth are installed on the frame.

Work on the construction of the crate should be carried out with particular care - the durability and reliability of the entire structure depends on how evenly and firmly it is mounted.

Frame elements - a profile or a bar (Description, types, properties) - can be installed horizontally or vertically, horizontal ones are more suitable for plastic panels.

Work order:

The starting bar is set at a height of 4-5 cm above the ground. The starting point is determined, with the help of a level, a chopping cord or a marker, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the foundation. Mount the bar along the marked line, fixing it with dowels.
If, together with the cladding, the facade is also insulated, the frame must be located at a distance from the walls sufficient for laying thermal insulation. The insulation is laid close, without leaving joints, fixed with plastic dowel-umbrellas. A waterproofing material is fixed on top. How to insulate a house with foam plastic can be found in this article.
At the corners, near the doorways, the exit or entrance of communications to the house, they put corner strips and a j-profile.
Move on to panel mounting. The first element is installed on the starting bar, fixed with screws along two edges and in 2 places in the middle of the panel.
It is important not to tighten the fasteners to the stop, but to leave a millimeter gap so that the expanding or contracting panel does not crack during temperature fluctuations.
Install the remaining panels of the first row in the same way.
If the height of the elements is not enough, and it is required to complete the second or more rows, then they are made with an offset, like brickwork.
When the foundation is completely sheathed, the last row of panels is covered with a plastic sheen.
If, after work, small gaps between the elements were noticed, they are sealed using a silicone sealant of a suitable color.

In order for the erected structure to fully fulfill its functions and serve for a long time, before starting work, it is worth studying a few recommendations from specialists in the installation of plastic panels:

All places of entry and exit of communications into the house must be sealed before cladding.
Plastic panels must be installed at a small distance from the soil level, and not close to the ground.
Sheathing work always starts from the left corner, goes to the right.
Fasteners for cladding must necessarily have an anti-corrosion coating.
All gaps and joints after completion of work must be carefully lubricated with sealant.

For facing works, it is desirable to choose a day when the air temperature is above 0 ° C and no precipitation is expected.

Decorative sheathing of the foundation with socle siding

Siding panels have a locking connection, thanks to which the individual elements are tightly and securely fixed into a single structure. However, in order for the work to be done efficiently, it is important to install a strong and even metal frame to which the basement siding will be attached.

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

screwdriver;
self-tapping screws and dowel-nails;
a hammer;
perforator;
building level;
Bulgarian;
marker and tape measure;
scissors for cutting metal;
metallic profile;
corners, ebbs and starting bar.

Work order

Profiles are fixed in 3 places: at the bottom, in the middle and at the top. A similar scheme is used for facing the foundation with 1 row of panels about 46 cm high. The pitch of the racks must match the width of the panel.

Before installing the profile, first mark the lines along which it will be laid using a level and a marker.

The profile is fixed with dowels. A starting bar is installed on the lower profile, fixing it with self-tapping screws at a distance of every 30 cm. Corners are fixed at the corners and ledges of the foundation.

Work on installing siding starts from the corner, from left to right. The first element is attached to the starting bar by inserting self-tapping screws into special holes for fastening, fixing it. Install the next panel so that its protrusions go into the grooves of the first element.

Having reached the opposite corner, cut off the excess at the last panel using a grinder. Move on to the next wall.

From above, the lining is closed with a low tide, the gaps and cracks are filled with a sealant that is in harmony with the color of the siding.

Starting to independently install basement siding, it is worth remembering a few rules:

Fasteners must be installed in the center of a special hole, without twisting it to the end by 1 mm - this is necessary so that the panels that change under the influence of the environment do not crack.
For reliable fixation of the structure, fasteners of such a length are used that it enters the base by at least 11 mm.
If, simultaneously with the lining of the foundation, its insulation is carried out, breathable non-foil materials are used.

Having learned how to finish the foundation with panels on your own, you can get to work - the installation process is quite simple, and the recommendations of specialists and watching a video with a detailed description of the work will help to avoid common mistakes.

Video instruction for installing basement siding: materials for work, work order and installation process.

The video shows typical errors in the installation of plinth panels and the consequences of non-compliance with the installation technology.

When the frame of the house has already been built and the finishing work remains, the question arises: how best to finish the outer surfaces, including the foundation of the house, what materials to use for decoration and cladding? In this case, saving money on materials is undesirable, since the protection of the basement walls is one of the primary tasks in building a house. What to choose: aesthetics or practicality?

Since the basement is the above-ground part of the foundation structure, it, like the outer walls of the house, needs protection: from moisture, temperature extremes and frost. In addition, both the facade of the house and its basement should look aesthetically pleasing and harmonize with each other. All these conditions are met by various finishing materials.

Photo gallery: varieties of plinth decoration

Bulky in appearance, the panels are lightweight and have a textured surface that imitates natural stone Large fractions look great with facade tiles, harmonizing not only with their shade, but also fitting into the overall design of the architecture The finish of the basement is distinguished by the accuracy and discreetness of the tiles
In this case, the shades of the siding fit perfectly into the overall architecture of the house Pigment dye has been added to the plaster, refreshing the overall look of the house

Types of materials for finishing and cladding

Today for finishing the foundations are used:

plaster;

siding (panels);

tile;

stone (natural and artificial);

brick.

Each type of finish has its own advantages and disadvantages, presented below. In addition, the methods of carrying out finishing work also differ.

Table: comparison of finishing materials

Important: finishing the foundation must be carried out, because the concrete will absorb moisture, which has a destructive effect on it during temperature changes.

Before carrying out finishing work, it is necessary to prepare the surface: remove dirt, level the foundation wall, covering cracks and chips. After leveling, the surface is primed so that the finish adheres better to the main surface.

Plaster

It is the most affordable and simple finishing material. For it, sand with cement, filled with water and mixed in a ratio of 3: 1: 0.5, is used. In this case, cement grade M400 is sufficient. The solution itself is applied to the reinforcing mesh, which acts as a fixative. The grid is attached to the above-ground surface of the foundation with fixing dowels.

The progress of work during plastering is as follows:

A mesh is attached to the prepared surface.

The first layer of plaster is applied to the plinth. The layer thickness should be 0.8–1 cm. The primer coat can be shaped decoratively using a scraper or a brush with metal bristles. To do this, the solution is applied to the surface in wavy lines.

After setting the first (primer) layer, at least a week must pass, after which the finish can be applied. The thickness of the decorative layer can vary from 0.3 to 0.5 cm.

Note: the primer (first) layer must be constantly moistened throughout the week. Wetting with water should be carried out up to four times a day, covering the surface with a film each time after wetting.

Pigment dyes can also be added to the finishing layer solution. In addition, the plaster is decorated with a rasp: contours are cut on the surface as when laying brick or stone.

And to imitate a “fur coat”, the solution for the decorative layer is not applied, but thrown in small portions. This results in a textured surface that can hide minor irregularities and defects in the foundation.

Panels

This includes siding - the material is modern, comfortable, lightweight. In addition to an affordable price and a variety of colors, siding is distinguished by the fact that it is not necessary to glue it to the basement surface - it is enough to use fasteners and a frame for installing panels.

Note: for the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to use special profiles.

Finishing the siding foundation is as follows:

The prepared basement surface is dried.

A frame-crate is made and attached to the foundation. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws with dowel-inserts.

The panels are connected to each other with the help of special grooves-locks, after which the cladding is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws.

Important: a small air gap must remain between the panels and the main wall of the basement for air circulation. This is necessary to prevent the formation of mold on the main wall when condensation forms.

Siding is also distinguished by the fact that for its installation it is not necessary to carry out a perfect alignment of the main surface.

Tile

Strength, aesthetics and durability - these are the three components that can characterize tiles. Today, facing tiles are divided into three types: clinker, polymer sand and porcelain stoneware. They are distinguished by production technology, size and weight. And the laying technology is similar to stone cladding.

Clinker tiles are similar in appearance and production technology to bricks, but their thickness is only 2 cm. Tiles are laid on a special adhesive, which manufacturers offer in the form of a ready-made dry mix. Laying technology is the same as for artificial or natural stone, after laying it is necessary to use grout for tile joints.

Tip: For a better effect, the grout for the tiles can be chosen in a contrasting color that is very different from the color of the finish.

Polymer sand tiles are made from waste plastic and sand, and therefore have less weight than clinker tiles. It can be mounted both on self-tapping screws and planted on tile adhesive.

The advantage of such a tile is that it does not require grouting of tile joints - it is enough to cut the required number of tiles and stick the fragments on the frame

Note: polymer sand tiles are usually used for foundations with low bearing capacity.

Porcelain tiles are made from fired clay. Since the tile is pressed, the density of the material is increased, as a result of which such a finish is quite heavy. The thickness of one element can vary from 0.3 to 3 cm. However, the moisture absorption coefficient of porcelain stoneware is quite low.

Porcelain tiles are mounted only on a special adhesive solution that can withstand the adhesion of the element to the surface. However, since there are increased requirements for strength and weather resistance to the finish of the basement, they put the tiles on glue, additionally fastening its fragments with brackets and clasps.

Stone, artificial and natural

This type of finish is considered not only the most expensive, but also the most beautiful. The difference between materials is only in different cost and operational life.

For facing the plinth with stone, you will need a finishing material and an adhesive solution. The solution is made from ready-made dry mixes, but it can be replaced with a cement-sand mixture of one's own production. The thickness of the adhesive solution should be 0.3–0.5 mm.

The facing stone is laid on a previously prepared surface, with the adhesive solution already applied. Fragments of the stone are also covered with a thin layer of mortar from the wrong side and pressed against the main surface. After laying, the remaining mortar is removed from the finish.

Note: a perfectly flat surface is required for laying; otherwise, the finish will not last long.

For natural stone, it is desirable to use an adhesive solution of increased adhesion to more firmly hold the finish.

The foundation is considered completely finished when, after laying the finishing material, a slope is fixed on top to protect the basement from the accumulation of rainfall.

Tip: natural stone after gluing can be dried and covered with a protective layer - varnish or hydrophobic solution. This achieves the effect of a “wet” plinth lining, in addition, the coating protects the finish from moisture ingress into the stone and destruction of the material during low temperatures.

Brick

Perhaps this is the most durable facing material for the plinth, and at the same time it has certain selection rules. Properly selected brick will protect the base from destruction and the foundation from overload.

So, for monolithic foundations, you can use standard material. But for strip or columnar foundations, it is desirable to finish with a special brick.

Brick installation is carried out on anchor bolts connecting the main wall with the finish. For safety, you can use a dowel tied with wire as a fastener. The wire is fixed at the ends in the seams of the finish.

Important: Also, there should be a small gap between the brick and the main wall for air circulation.

The air gap will avoid the accumulation of condensate, which has a destructive effect on the main wall.

As experienced builders note, wire knitting when facing with bricks must be done at a rate of 0.5–0.7 m per 1 m2. In other words, for greater strength of the cladding, fastening with the main surface in the amount of 4-6 knits will be required.

Tip: for laying bricks, a cement mortar with sand is used, the cement grade is M500.

Video: finishing the plinth with siding

The choice of foundation cladding will depend on the owner and his budget. Some will like to use panels, some will prefer tiles, and some owners will decide to make the cladding “for centuries” and choose natural stone. The essence of finishing the basement is to protect the above-ground part of the foundation from the destructive effects of frost and moisture for a long time.