The correct organization of air exchange in the bathhouse is a serious task that requires a professional approach. It is not enough to build a bathhouse, complete interior decoration, install heating equipment and furniture. It is important to ensure effective ventilation of the bath rooms, to form a favorable microclimate that allows you to enjoy water procedures and contributes to a long service life of the decoration, as well as the entire structure.
Bath ventilation is a guarantee of comfort
Relaxation in the sauna will be a pleasure if it is easy and comfortable to breathe in the room.
In a steam room, the air temperature is very high, so if there is no ventilation in it, you can suffocate or get heatstroke.
If the correct air exchange is disturbed or if there is no ventilation at all, it will be difficult to breathe in the steam room and it will be impossible to stay for a long time.
The ventilation system allows to create a comfortable microclimate, which ensures the supply of oxygen-saturated air and the removal of "spent" air masses.
The traditional layout of the bath complex provides for a dressing room, a washing compartment, as well as a relaxation room, and everywhere it is important to ensure effective air circulation.
Favorable microclimate in the relaxation room will allow you to relax after visiting the steam room
The increased concentration of moisture does not give pleasure both during water procedures and during rest. The human body is sensitive to a lack of oxygen and high humidity.
The conclusion is unambiguous: in the bath, you need to make good ventilation so that it is pleasant and comfortable not only to bathe, but also to relax in it.
Disruption of air circulation or lack of ventilation causes:
Types and principles of ventilation arrangement
For any type of bath (Russian, Finnish sauna, Turkish hamam) ventilation is provided, which can be carried out in different ways.
Natural air exchange
The principle of the formation of convection air flows is based on the temperature and air pressure drop from the street side and inside the bathhouse.
The temperature difference promotes the movement of air currents
Maximum air exchange efficiency is achieved due to the correct location of the supply and exhaust ventilation lines.
The traditional arrangement of air ducts is used to ventilate the premises of the Russian bath and sauna. The supply air duct is located at a distance of 0.2–0.3 meters from the floor, and the exhaust pipe is located at the same distance from the ceiling. Control dampers in the room should be provided to optimize air flow and provide a comfortable temperature regime.
The damper allows you to regulate the flow of air into the room
Natural ventilation should provide air exchange, keeping the room temperature and not creating discomfort during rest. The advantages of natural air exchange are simplicity and low costs associated with the absence of the need to purchase expensive equipment.
Combined option
The method of organizing the movement of air masses in a room using a fan that circulates is called combined. At the same time, there is no regularity in the location of the ventilation ducts.
The ventilation scheme is determined individually and provides for the installation of an outlet and a duct equipped with a fan, which is mounted on the supply line or exhaust duct and creates the required pressure drop.
Providing air exchange in the premises of the bath using the combined method is convenient and economically justified.
Forced circulation
The forced air exchange system is also called mechanical. The system is equipped with automation elements that control the temperature regime, regulate humidity and the intensity of circulation of air masses.
Forced ventilation ensures maximum comfort.
The increased costs associated with the purchase and installation of equipment, as well as the complexity of maintenance, limit the use of a mechanical air exchange system in small bath rooms.
For rooms with an increased area, forced circulation is used if natural or combined air exchange is not effective.
If the bath rooms are large, forced ventilation must be installed in them.
The following types of mechanical ventilation are used:
- Exhaust, equipped with a filter element and a fan. This type of ventilation ensures effective removal of unpleasant odors and polluted air masses from rooms with swimming pools, washing rooms and recreation areas. The use of an exhaust system requires the supply of fresh air necessary to compensate for the vacuum generated by the fan.
- Supply air, which supplies oxygen-rich air. Air masses saturated with vapors, due to the increased pressure, leave the room through the ventilation ducts, as well as through the existing gaps in doors and windows. Combining the supply line with a heating device allows fresh heated air to be supplied. The design of the supply air exchange is more complex.
- Supply and exhaust, combining the principle of supply and exhaust ventilation. Using this ventilation principle in a sauna room requires preliminary calculations. The circulation rate is determined based on the fact that the volume of the incoming air must correspond to the volume of the displaced one. In order to prevent the penetration of air from the bathroom into the recreation area, the ratio is deliberately violated. This makes it possible to form a reduced pressure in the toilet room and direct additional flows into it.
Air exchange organization principles
When planning a ventilation device, be guided by the following recommendations:
It is important to correctly calculate the area of the ventilation ducts. The section of the vent and the air duct is determined by the size of the steam room, for each cubic meter of volume of which it is necessary to provide 24 cm 2 of the area of the ventilation duct.
For a comfortable stay in a heated steam room, provide the possibility of more than five times the air exchange (the air in the steam room must be renewed 5 times per hour). The layout of the supply duct and exhaust duct, as well as their number, should facilitate easy circulation of the masses in the steam room.
Effective air exchange will increase the service life of wooden floors. To ensure it, you must:
The correct ventilation device will allow you to fully enjoy the steam room and get great pleasure from the sauna relaxation.
Video: ventilation in the bath
How to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands
The organization of air circulation in each room has individual characteristics.
Dressing room ventilation
The tambour room or dressing room is used as a changing room. The compartment is located away from areas with high humidity and temperature.
The ventilated changing room will always be dry and comfortable
The use of the front door promotes the flow of fresh air and reliable ventilation of the changing room.
The location of a ventilation grill with a valve in the upper part of the wall will ensure natural air exchange and control the volume of incoming air masses.
When constructing a building, a ventilation hole must be provided. If there is no air channel, then you must make it yourself:
Air exchange in the washroom
The washing compartment, in which the shower is installed, is ventilated due to the natural circulation of air flows moving from rooms with high humidity to ventilation vents or small vents.
The easiest way to ventilate the washroom is by using a window.
To improve ventilation efficiency and reduce humidity, it is advisable to equip the shower room with an exhaust fan.
Install the fan according to the following algorithm:
For ventilation of the washing room, use fans with an operating voltage of 220 volts, with a low power - 20–100 W.
When purchasing a fan, pay attention to the possibility of the device operating at high temperature and humidity, as well as the degree of protection, which should not be lower than IP44.
Organization of air circulation in the steam room
For ventilation of the steam room, make 2–3 ducts intended for air exchange. One line will provide fresh air, and the rest will allow the exhaust air masses to leave the room without hindrance.
The increased size of the exhaust duct allows for faster ventilation of the steam room
Place the channels according to one of the proposed ventilation schemes.
The intensity of air exchange depends on the location and size ratio of the supply and exhaust ducts.
Making holes during the construction phase will preserve the integrity of the finishing materials and facilitate work.
The area of the inlet line must correspond to the size of the outlet duct. However, a more efficient convection flow can be achieved by making a slight increase in the diameter of the suction line.
A prerequisite is the installation of adjustable valves that allow you to change the intensity of air exchange.
In a wooden bath, it is better to make the valve from the same wood that was used for interior decoration
Implementation of measures for the arrangement of canals is not difficult:
Video: ventilation in the steam room
Creating a microclimate in the recreation room
Comfortable temperature conditions and optimal air circulation in the relaxation room are achieved through natural air exchange.
Air duct in the upper part of the wall ensures sufficient fresh air flow
It is important to provide an air duct equipped with an adjustable damper or vent valve. This will, if necessary, increase the intensity of the movement of air masses.
To organize the access of fresh air, instead of a ventilation duct, you can use a window
Drilling a hole and installing the valve is easy.
Video: making a ventilation valve
Variants and layouts of ventilation ducts
In the bath, you can use different options for the location of ventilation communications, providing for natural air circulation and the use of a fan.
Different variants of the ventilation device differ in the location of the channels, but provide high efficiency of air exchange
One of the proposed schemes of natural air exchange, which provides for the following options for the placement of ventilation ducts, will ensure a comfortable adoption of bath procedures:
To achieve a favorable temperature regime and comfortable humidity, air exchange schemes provide for the installation of a fan:
Remember that the determination of the performance of the fan unit is made by multiplying the volume of the steam room by the coefficient of air exchange.
For example, to determine the required air exchange in a steam room with an area of 10 m 2 and a height of 2 meters, it is necessary to multiply the volume by the air exchange coefficient equal to 5 (we have already said above that the air in the steam room must be completely renewed 5 times per hour). The obtained value of the fan performance is 10 x 2x 5 = 100 m 3 / h.
Heated air ventilation
Air exchange with simultaneous heating of the incoming air is carried out in the bath in different ways. They involve the use of a fan or natural air exchange. For example, by placing certain air channels in the immediate vicinity of a hot furnace, it is possible to simultaneously inflow oxygen-saturated air and increase its temperature due to the heated surface of the heating unit.
In order to create a favorable temperature regime, comfortable humidity and smooth heating of the incoming air masses, it is necessary to use plugs or slide dampers located on the air lines. Ventilation while simultaneously heating the air is a rather difficult task.
Each heating unit has its own individual "character". Only as a result of experiments, it is possible to select the optimal air exchange mode and ensure a comfortable temperature in the bath room.
To increase the temperature of the incoming air masses, you can use an electric heater that heats the air entering the room. This is another option for air ventilation with simultaneous heating.
The air entering through the ventilation ducts can be preheated by an air heater
The power of the electric heater is selected experimentally.
The electrical equipment used in the premises of the bath must withstand high temperatures and humidity, be reliably grounded and have a protection class of at least IP44.
Combining air ventilation with heating allows you to create comfortable conditions for vacationers, as well as reduce the costs associated with heating a room using heating equipment.
Acquaintance with the principles of organizing the correct air circulation in the steam room, as well as the rest of the rooms of the sauna and bath, will allow you to independently organize the process of effective air exchange. It is important to correctly calculate the dimensions of the air lines and to optimally place the inlets of the channels in the premises. Remember that the design of the heating device and the chimney additionally affects the degree of air circulation. By following the recommendations, you can avoid mistakes and enjoy the wellness procedures in the sauna with a comfortable microclimate.
Share with your friends!Sauna is a great place for spending free time, as well as for health improvement.
However, a quality stay in it can only be ensured through ventilation.
During the construction of the steam room, a special role is always given to the correct ventilation of the sauna.
This is explained by the following reasons:
- Provides fresh air supply.
- It is she who is capable of distribute oxygen throughout the room evenly and equally warm it up.
- Will facilitate rapid purification from accumulating carbon dioxide, which will facilitate the process of staying in such a space.
- Due to ventilation in the steam room, correct air circulation, which avoids excessive moisture settling on all wooden surfaces. As a result, the tree will last longer, it will not be covered with a layer of mold and fungus harmful to the human body, and will not rot.
- Correct the operation of the oven also directly depends on the air exchange.
- The likelihood of suffocation disappears, because quite often a group of people gathers in the steam room, who can drink alcohol to improve their mood. Without an influx of fresh air, it will be almost impossible to breathe in such a room after 30 minutes.
- The whole room can be well ventilated and thoroughly dried, which is important for a comfortable stay in it.
Paying attention to all of the above reasons, and asking yourself the question:
Do you need ventilation in the sauna? There is, of course, a definite answer - yes!
The main thing is to do it in a timely manner and correctly, in order to avoid the processes of wood rotting, the presence of drafts and an unpleasant smell in the future, which will not please the visitors of the steam room.
Correct ventilation of the sauna or bath
Access to fresh air and maintaining a constant, high temperature can only be achieved thanks to the presence of ventilation in the Finnish sauna. It cannot exist without exhaust and inflow.
An exhaust hood in a sauna is needed to remove carbon dioxide from it, and the inflow creates all the conditions for pure oxygen to enter the room.
Before starting construction, you need to know about the unchanged rules and regulations for creating it in the bath.
- After 25-30 minutes of sauna operation, it often becomes difficult to breathe in it, the head begins to spin and ache. The reason for this lies in the fact that there is an incorrect change of musty, steam-filled and human sweat-filled air. According to SNIP, the air in such closed spaces must be renewed at least 5-6 times per hour. Moreover, its speed can be at least 20 cubic meters for 60 minutes.
- The chimney should not be too narrow. It is better to make its diameter the same as that of the supply.
- The inlet openings may only be placed at the bottom.... The permissible height from the floor cannot be less than 20 cm. It is installed strictly behind the stove. Otherwise, the cold air will not have time to heat up, which will entail the presence of drafts and uncomfortable sensations of people staying in such a closed space.
- To know which pipes with which cross-section you need to purchase, certain norms and rules should be taken into account: per 1 cubic meter of the room to be equipped, there must be a pipe with a cross section of at least 24 centimeters.
- The inlet and outlet openings cannot be opposite each other.
- It is imperative to think about the possibility of adjusting the air flow by decreasing or increasing it. This can be done by means of valves that are installed in the vents of the bath.
- Often in the sauna, a gap is left between the bottom of the door and the floor. due to the absence of a threshold or its very low height... It is needed for natural exhaustion in a Finnish sauna.
The oxygen movement pattern will look correct only if there is more than one hood in the room in question. Paying attention to where the inflow is located, the first exhaust hole is equipped strictly on the opposite side from it at a height of up to one meta. The second must be done directly under the ceiling. The main thing at this stage of work is to connect both holes with a single box leading to the chimney or a common exhaust duct.
Let's consider how the Finnish sauna works:
- Before starting the steam room, it should be thoroughly ventilated to freshen the air.
- Close the outlets and doors with the help of valves, which will allow the air in the steam room to heat up quite quickly.
- The inlet valve remains open. This is done in order to avoid air discharge.
- After waiting for the room to warm up completely, we monitor the correct ventilation in the sauna. To do this, slightly open the lower channel. This is how the gradual movement of oxygen begins. It should be remembered that the upper channel should not be opened in order not to let well-heated air out of the bath. Fresh, cool air, after entering through the supply channel, slowly warms up due to the stove and immediately begins to gradually displace the air, which has already had time to stagnate.
Such a system will not be perceptible for people if its preliminary installation is performed correctly, adhering to all the advice and recommendations of specialists. While in it, vacationers will not even feel discomfort and will enjoy a pleasant temperature and comfortable humidity.
An equally important role is played by the stove, which is equipped either in the steam room, or in a separate room. It is made of metal and lined with bricks on the outside. Performs the following functions in the sauna:
- Heats up the total area of the room.
- Heats up the water.
- Produces steam.
When choosing this device, you should be guided by the following criteria:
- Size is fine if the oven is small to save space.
- Must be reliable and secure.
- Have the ability to quickly heat up.
- Have a low cost.
- It must have a long shelf life in order to constantly withstand heavy loads and temperature changes.
- When choosing a stove, first of all, consider its power and size in relation to the size of the sauna.
Views
Today, there are three types of ventilation in the sauna. Let's consider each of them in more detail.
Natural
Occurs due to pressure drops indoors and outdoors. Differs in low costs of installation work, as well as ease of use. This is done in the following ways:
- Due to the wind pressure, which is possible only in buildings made from a log house. Indoor air pressure arises from powerful gusts of wind, which create a significant vacuum on the leeward side. The movement of air in and out occurs through the gaps between the logs.
The disadvantage of this type of ventilation is that it cannot be regulated, which directly affects the temperature inside the bath.
As a result of strong wind, drafts are possible, which also causes no less inconvenience for vacationers.
- Thanks to aeration. Its meaning lies in the penetration of air masses directly from the street through the bottom of the room, in which there are special vents. Outside air, getting into the sauna, squeezes out the hot stream from above and directs them into the air duct. This sauna ventilation system is perfect for rooms with very hot air and a lot of steam. Oxygen circulation is very fast here.
Mechanical
It is equipped only if it is impossible to make supply ventilation in the sauna. That is why it is also called forced. It consists of rather expensive elements: coolers, heaters, fans and air filters.
To achieve the outlet of the treated air from the room, with forced ventilation in the sauna, exhaust fans are used, on which filters are necessarily installed. 
This type of ventilation is used in very large rooms where there are swimming pools, showers and a huge number of visitors. It keeps the air free from steam, sweat and unpleasant odors in a short time.
Using mechanical ventilation, a forced flow of oxygen is applied. This is achieved due to a very complex system that has the following components:
- Supply chamber.
- Noise reducing mechanisms.
- Diffusers.
- Check valves.
- Distribution grilles.
To make the supply air comfortable when entering the room, it is pre-cleaned and heated.
Combined
It is used in baths only if this is directly due to the peculiarities of their structure. Thus, a sauna located in a house and bordered by its three walls with a common dwelling cannot have natural ventilation. At the same time, it will not be possible to arrange the inlet and outlet openings according to all the rules. Therefore, observing the norms, it is allowed to equip the inlet opening at a height of at least 20 cm from the floor, and the exhaust outlet is located on the same wall at the same distance from the ceiling.
The principle of operation of such air exchange consists in the ingress of cold air into the room, passing it through the stove, heating and circulation throughout the sauna.
It is imperative that valves are installed on all openings to regulate the flow.
The disadvantage of such a system is the rather strong speed and amount of air masses.
In some cases, the supply channel is not mounted under the heater, but above it. The outlet is then placed on the opposite side a few centimeters higher. This will reduce the air flow, but there is not enough rice. To avoid this, a fan is additionally installed in the outlet duct.
Ventilation system diagrams
There are three device diagrams:
- Expressway consists in installing the supply channel strictly behind the stove at a level of 20 cm from the floor. Be sure to place an exhaust hole on the opposite wall at the same distance, inside which a fan is placed.
Street air, getting into the room, instantly warms up due to the stove already hot at that time. Then it rises to the ceiling, cools down a little, lowers it down and is taken out of the bath. Thanks to this air flow, the most comfortable temperature for the human body is achieved, because all air masses are mixed gradually and evenly.
- If the sauna is located inside an existing room and it has only one wall bordering the street, the inlet and outlet channels are mounted on this surface. Main conditions: they are located at the same distance from the floor and ceiling (20 cm) directly opposite the stove. So, at the top there is a forced outflow, and at the bottom - an inflow.
With this scheme, air entering the room is immediately directed to the stove and gradually heats up, after which it is discharged outside.
- The mildest heating of air masses is achieved through the use of this scheme. Its principle lies in the location of the inlet channel behind the stove at a height of 60 cm from the floor, and the outlet with a fan just on the opposite wall at a height of 20 cm from the floor.
Oxygen from the street, penetrating into the room, heats up and rises. Already slightly cooled air masses leave the structure. Thanks to the slower flow, the stay in such a sauna becomes very comfortable.
Sauna ventilation device
When planning to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands, one should not forget that it is necessary to ensure high-quality air exchange of the floor of this room. Otherwise 
the room will quickly become unusable, and the floor covering will not be able to last more than 3 years.
Floor ventilation involves the following stages:
- When erecting the concrete base, install vents on opposite walls of the basement. If the foundation has already been built, then any interference with its integrity can significantly affect the quality of the entire structure.
- Cut through holes in the opposite walls for air intake, which are recommended to be covered with metal grilles. This will prevent various rodents and insects from entering the room.
- When setting up the stove, the blower should be slightly lower than the upper level of the floor, which will allow it to work as a hood.
- When installing floorboards, it is necessary to leave small gaps between them, the size of which should not exceed 10 mm. This will allow water to flow naturally through the floor.
Let's consider how to make ventilation in the sauna, depending on its location.
Ventilation in a sauna with an electric heater:
- Be sure to leave a gap of skyscrapers up to 5 cm under the door.
- The inlet channel is placed under the stove.
- Outlets are made on the opposite wall: one above the floor, the other below the ceiling.
- For proper operation, the holes are connected with a box, which is led out into the chimney or the entire ventilation system of the house.
- Valves are installed on the air ducts, which makes it possible to regulate the flow.
Ventilation of a sauna in a private house presupposes the presence of an ideal waterproofing material in such a room.
Most often it is located near the bathroom, because it already has its own hood, which facilitates the process of connecting two air exchanges.
The ventilation in the basement sauna is connected via ducts to the general system of the house. In these types of baths, an electric stove is installed on the floor or hung on the wall.
- Do not forget about ventilation errors in a home sauna:
- Air duct schemes need to be thought out in advance.
- Lack of under-door clearance and air inlet may result in suffocation.
- Providing a vent only for air outflow results in no air circulation.
- The absence of valves results in an inability to regulate the flow.
- The entry and exit channels are placed opposite each other at the same level, which leads to the presence of drafts.
- Expensive equipment should not be used for ventilation, because constant temperature fluctuations will quickly require repair and, possibly, renewal of some components.
How much is it
When planning to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands, you need to know that its cost will cost about 24-38 thousand rubles. Everything will depend on the cost of the components.
- The ventilation valve can be purchased for 650-1500 rubles.
- Lattice for 300-400 rubles.
- Supply and exhaust system for 18,500 rubles.
The creation of a high-quality air exchange system is an important part in the operation of a sauna, therefore, the choice of its components, as well as the installation process, must be thoughtfully and timely.
Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are spelled out in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises, in which conditions favorable for a person are created. At the same time, it is taken into account that people in such premises stay for a long period of time and for all it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.
Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas more than + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary within wide limits, depending on the wishes of the washable. Changes in microclimate parameters should be made as soon as possible, and the achieved values should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between a bath and ordinary premises. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to "protect themselves" from temporary inconveniences by clothing, then in the baths it is impossible to do this.
Steam room microclimate illustration - high temperature and hot steam
Based on these features, the ventilation of the baths must fulfill individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and the peculiarities of its functioning. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.
We have already found out the tasks of ventilation of the bath and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it is time to tell how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.
First, you need to remember the physics lessons from school. Ventilation of the premises occurs due to the difference in air density outside and indoors. Heated air has less weight and rises up, cold air is heavier and falls down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must come in and out. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.
On the Internet you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or "blows in the wrong direction." Only those who skipped lessons can say this. The ratio of the sizes of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation in any way.
Square ventilation window
If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will enter the cold room, whatever the dimensions of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind back pressure or in the complete absence of fresh air supply. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air is released in the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works according to the "back and forth" principle. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.
And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation in the bath. Let's start with the easiest ones and end up with the more complex ones.
The simplest, but also the least efficient ventilation method.
In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation is fast, but not as we would like. Why?
Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.
- Firstly, if you open the door, then the steam does not go out into the street, but into other rooms. Humidity rises sharply in them, heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. There is no need to explain what may happen next.
- Secondly. Lowering the temperature in the steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. The actual temperature is a physical indicator, the perceived one is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature differently depending on the surrounding factors. High humidity "raises" the temperature we feel, strong wind lowers it. So, due to simple ventilation, only excess steam can be removed, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values within a few minutes.
- Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable indicators of the indoor climate. As soon as the doors are closed, the temperature and humidity rises sharply, as soon as the doors are opened, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.
The bottom line is that ventilation is not a ventilation method that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.
This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the firebox of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can be supplied through the floor cracks, a slightly open window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grill.
The advantages of ventilating a bath with a stove.
- Ease of execution. There is no need to make special vents in the log house. Any additional hole in a wooden wall does not improve its performance, to say the least. If mistakes were made during the period of blowing and installing decorative grilles, then the risks of moisture getting on the crowns of the log house increase. The moisture will dry out for a very long time, and the prolonged stay of wooden structures in a wet state has an extremely negative effect on their strength and durability of use.
- Possibility to regulate the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is "controlled" by a gate and stove doors. It is necessary to speed it up - the gate and the firebox door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the gate closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the gate, the microclimate indicators in the steam room are stabilized, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.
Gate stove - photo
- Versatility of application. It does not matter what materials the bathhouse is built from, what size and architectural features it has. In addition, this system allows easy upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet behind the stove and the air entering the bath will be slightly warmed up. The chimney still serves as the hood.
There are, of course, disadvantages, let's name the main ones.
- Insufficient performance. You cannot quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
- The presence of "dead" zones. Air mixing throughout the entire volume does not occur, zones with drafts and zones with standing air appear.
- Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.
Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" versions of baths.
For a budget steam room, the best option is oven ventilation and airing
Airing the bath with a stove - diagram
The best ventilation device for most baths.
Advantages:
Important. It is advisable to think over the ventilation device even before starting the construction of the bath. Solve issues with specific hole placement and dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the air vents no more than the height of the timber, and adjust the flattening of the holes with the length.
Bath fan prices
bath fan
Why is it better to provide ventilation during the construction phase?
- Firstly, it is much more difficult to make holes in an already finished structure, purely physically.
Drilling a hole in a log house is a laborious process
- Secondly, there are risks that the hole will fall on the dowel, especially for the upper outlet duct. It is located in close proximity to the rafter system's Mauerlat, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns and only metal rods or pieces of construction reinforcement are used as dowels.
- Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then an expensive tool will fail after "meeting" the dowel. And the chisel or chisel will not always be possible to "reanimate" after attempts to cut through the metal.
- Fourthly, it is almost impossible to cut a metal nail in this place. You can't get close with a grinder, a hacksaw for metal as well, and you won't want an enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to hammer the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the wall of the bath or an increase in its size? Moreover, if you have already made holes in the outer and inner lining for its "planned" dimensions and bought ventilation grilles. A "meeting" with a metal nail is a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.
Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation ducts
There are some general rules for all types of natural ventilation. First, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air supply holes should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit openings should be located at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Second, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet openings are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?
It can be done at the bottom of the door leaf of the steam room.
Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the likelihood of the lower rims of the log house getting wet is eliminated. Disadvantage - in most cases, the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.
Under the shelf.
Advantages - the inlet is invisible, cold air flows well with warm air throughout the volume. Disadvantage - access to the lattice for opening / closing the damper becomes more difficult. If during washing it is possible to adjust the ventilation intensity only with the help of the upper grill, then after airing the baths, both must be closed. And this means that after a while you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the air.
Important. Dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed in two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees the complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.
Behind the stove.
Inlet behind the stove - diagram
The most optimal option. Cold air from the street will hit the stove, warmed up a little and break into several separate streams with a low speed of movement. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, the high temperature will negatively affect the plastic or wood materials of the decorative grill. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.
Not a single option for your particular case? No problem, make a hole wherever you want.
As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice is don't do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air should not be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant moisture in the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always "costs a pretty penny." To protect the rafters, humid air will have to be removed to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why do it yourself and for your own money worsen the tightness of the roof covering?
Sizes of openings for natural ventilation
The technology for calculating the size of the ventilation openings is specified in the current regulations. Determining the size of air vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main parameter of the ventilation system performance is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while taking into account both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside. The temperature in the living quarters fluctuates within insignificant limits, this simplifies the work of designers.
In steam rooms, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the speed of air intake / intake in different situations may differ significantly. These preconditions make it nearly impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.
Some bath owners are afraid of suffocation during bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely bathe, the count goes for tens of hours.
Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you have closed the stove gate before the wood has completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. She can ventilate the room only if no more carbon monoxide is supplied. Heat the stove correctly and never get burned, do not rely in vain for ventilation.
How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of a bath
For example, we will take the most difficult option - the external and internal cladding of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.
Step 1. Make a marking of the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you should not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do unnecessary work.
Step 2. Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner cladding. In the center of the drawn vent contour, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The drill exit from the outside of the steam room will be the center of airflow. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similar to that made in the steam room.
Step 3. Remove the internal and external cladding in the outline. If your bath is lined with natural clapboard on both sides, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.
Step 4. Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the cladding, if they are damaged, repair it. Drill through holes along the contour of the ventilation duct as close to each other as possible, constantly check where they come out from the outside of the wall. The drill must be perpendicular to the plane at all times. Drill the same holes over the entire area of the air vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.
Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in wood
Step 5... Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely poke a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully align the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct can easily fit into the channel.
The most difficult physical work has been done, you can start installing the air duct and grilles. Do not be discouraged if it takes a long time to punch holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two vents per day.
How to install air ducts and grilles
For air ducts, you can take galvanized metal or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grille according to the size of the opening; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.
Duct prices
duct
Step 1... Insulate the holes with mineral wool, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use polyurethane foam. The excess foam that has emerged should be cut off after hardening.
Step 2. If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the opening in the sheathing with foam, it seals the cut and prevents water from entering the wooden structures.
Step 3. Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and lathing.
We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo - the lattice on the outside of the bath
Mineral wool prices
mineral wool
Check the ventilation with a smoldering head or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.
In the photo, the air intake valve and its performance check
Experiment with natural ventilation at a variety of damper positions, from maximum to minimum.
Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve
Video - Ventilation in a bath with an air-conditioner Termofor
The presence of ventilation is a prerequisite for a comfortable presence in the bath. For the intake of fresh air and the removal of the waste air, ordinary ventilation is most often performed - they open the vents, doors, air vents. This ventilation is called natural ventilation. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large saunas with a washing compartment (pool), forced ventilation is more effective to eliminate unpleasant odors, quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate.
The principle of operation of such a system
Any ventilation system consists of at least two openings. One of them is supply air, the other is extract air. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through the inlet, mixes with warm "local" air. The distribution of the warm flow throughout the room is carried out. In this case, the exhaust air is repelled to the exhaust hole and is removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bath.
If natural reasons for the circulation of air flows are not enough, a forced ventilation system is arranged. Its essence is that fans - supply or exhaust - are installed on one or both ventilation openings. They provide forced air movement. The supply fan draws in fresh air from the outside with its blades, and the exhaust fan, on the contrary, pushes out the used air.
Often, grilles (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on the ventilation ducts, with the help of which the size of the hole and the intensity of the circulation of air flows are changed.
If the inlet opening is less open than the outlet opening, ventilation is increased. If the air speed reaches 0.3 m / s, there is a feeling of a draft. This should not be allowed. Ideally, the air movement should be smooth, slow, which means that the ventilation holes should open in about the same way.
Types of forced ventilation
There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):
- exhaust;
- supply;
- supply and exhaust.
Let's talk in more detail about each.
Exhaust ventilation
The exhaust ventilation design includes an exhaust fan. It is installed on the exhaust outlet of the ventilation system. There is also an inlet in this type of system. Usually these are air vents with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the inflow of fresh outside air.
Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washing rooms, rooms with a swimming pool, bathrooms, baths.
The exhaust ventilation device is simple. Usually it includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.
Forced ventilation
Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is installed not to remove used air, but to inflow fresh air from the street.
When the supply system is operating, the pressure in the room increases, respectively, the exhaust air is drawn through the exhaust vents, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, walls.
Supply fans work to draw in cool (and in winter - cold!) Outdoor air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to purify the supply air.
Supply and exhaust ventilation
It is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply and mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be supplied with recuperators, filters, and sound attenuators. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation completely mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.
The design of the supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complicated. It is very important at the design stage to calculate the air exchange in the bath room. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is the ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately violated to create air currents of the desired direction. For example, if the bath has a bathroom, then to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, a low pressure is artificially created in it. By installing a high-performance hood. After that, the air from the higher pressure room will be independently directed to the lower pressure zone. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.
Organization methods and ready-made schemes
Let's consider several ready-made schemes for performing forced ventilation.
Scheme # 1. Exhaust ventilation
Behind the stove, 0.3 m from the floor, an air inlet is installed. The exhaust fan is equipped on the opposite wall, slightly higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, entering the steam room through the inlet, passes through the oven, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling down, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change in air flows.
Scheme # 2. Forced ventilation
In a large steam room for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip supply ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are not directed from bottom to top, as with natural ventilation, but from top to bottom. An inlet with a fan is installed behind the furnace, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed in the lower part of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.
Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. With the help of a fan, cold air is blown into the steam room through the inlet. Once in the zone of the oven, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. The colder streams are forced down and out through the exhaust port.
Scheme # 3. Supply and exhaust ventilation
This scheme is intended for ventilation equipment in a steam room and shower. The air inlet with a fan is placed above the stove. The minimum distance from the stove is 50 cm. The air outlet (without fan) is made on an adjacent wall next to the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust air duct must be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply air duct.
Another exhaust outlet with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through a crack under the door.
Some mounting features
After choosing a ventilation scheme, it's time to move on to its installation. This will require the following devices and materials:
- Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with the ability to regulate the speed are suitable for the bath. According to the method of installation, they can be ducted or radial. Ducted ones are placed directly in the duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
- Ventilation box. Can be solid - plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form of a corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
- Ventilation grates. The material of manufacture is according to your preference.
The ventilation system is installed according to the following plan:
- According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is advisable that they be planned at the stage of the construction of the bath.
- Ventilation ducts are installed in the holes.
- An exhaust or supply fan is mounted (in the box or outside the hole).
- Connect the fan to the electricity network. The connection diagram will depend on the desired way of turning on the fan. The fan can be turned on in the following ways: simultaneously with lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Switching off can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the lights are turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
- Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation openings.
Here is an example of installing a fan:
Competent installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the sauna premises. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in the washrooms and bathrooms, ensure “easy breathing” in the steam room, and protect yourself from being hit by carbon monoxide.
Among the most important indicators of the Russian bath, the temperature and humidity level of the air are traditionally called, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, being in a steam room with musty air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it correctly.
Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, first, let us clarify why ventilation in the steam room is necessary at all. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the absence of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.
Types of ventilation systems for steam rooms
There are three types of ventilation in the steam room:
- natural;
- mechanical;
- combined.
The natural system assumes that air circulation is ensured by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and outside. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath, and this creates conditions for drawing in new air through the inlet. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial costs. But here you need to take into account one nuance: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.
Steam room ventilation scheme Mechanical ventilation functions by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows to the steam room. As a rule, various kinds of fans act as such devices. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of the room.
Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, since it will not withstand the harsh conditions of a steam room - here it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.
Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate inlet.
Ventilation schemes
There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on the design features of your Russian bath.
- The inlet is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust outlet is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
- The inlet is behind the heating device at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the exhaust outlet is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out by means of a fan. The main feature of the circuit is a very high heating rate of fresh air.
Bath ventilation systems - Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan that is mounted in an exhaust outlet.
Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with internal placement of the steam room - when the room has only one external side.
- The inlet is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust hole - instead, a special flowing floor is provided: the spent air masses pass through its slots to the ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - rapid drying of the floor.
- The inlet opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heating device works continuously.
General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room
Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.
Firstly, it is advisable to make all the holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. The ideal option is to decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to timely make all the necessary edits to the work plan.
Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust outlet should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the inlet opening. In any case, the "outlet" should not be less than the "inlet", otherwise it will be impossible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two "exits" in one room.
Install a valve to block air flow during cold seasons Thirdly, in order to regulate the air flow in the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special dampers or shutters. They will be useful to you in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively strive into a warm room.
Fourthly, the cross-section of the ventilation hole should correspond to the area of the steam room in the proportion: 1 cubic meter. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the room air will not be able to quickly renew itself.
Of course, organizing ventilation in a bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you adhere to them unswervingly, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.
Bath ventilation: video