Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: an algorithm for creating an effective system at no extra cost. Ventilation in a steam room: examples of proven schemes and analysis of the rules for arrangement How to properly ventilate a steam sauna

A high-quality ventilation system is an indispensable element of the steam room. The absence or improper organization of ventilation in the bath is dangerous to human health. A properly equipped system will protect people from carbon monoxide and improve the comfort of staying indoors. We will talk about the features and technology of installing the ventilation system in the bath later.

Characteristics of proper ventilation for the steam room

Proper ventilation in the bath performs several functions at once:

  • provides the room with oxygen;
  • improves the comfort of staying in the steam room;
  • removes carbon monoxide;
  • allows economically expedient to spend firewood;
  • evenly distributes air flow;
  • protects the building from the formation of mold or fungus.

The best option for ventilation in the bath is supply and exhaust. For these purposes, equip:

  • air inlet - through them an influx of fresh air into the steam room is organized, a fan with a ventilation tube is installed, additional air inflow is provided by open windows or through the door;
  • exhaust hole - the removal of heated air from the room, through the furnace, blower or devices that improve traction.

To improve the supply and exhaust ventilation system, various methods are used. We offer you to get acquainted with one of the most effective ventilation systems:

1. The supply openings are located at the bottom of the room, next to the firebox.

2. Exhaust openings strictly on the opposite side from above. It is possible to organize two holes at once for better air control.

3. The height of the exhaust port determines the draft level. If the vent is low, additionally reinforce the system with a vent pipe.

4. With the help of special dampers, the air supply from the room is controlled.

5. The air in the steam room is renewed every 2-3 hours.

In addition, the individual parameters of the ventilation system are determined by the type of room, the version of the bath. For example, in a Russian bath, periodic ventilation will help renew the air. In addition, the size and location of the installation of the furnace are taken into account; in relation to this parameter, two types of ventilation are organized.

How to make ventilation in a steam room with a separate firebox

We offer a variant of the organization of ventilation in the steam room, the firebox of which is located in the next room. This scheme is popular in ordinary Russian baths. To bring the firebox to an adjacent room, a furnace tunnel is used. Among the advantages of this arrangement of the furnace, we note:

  • lack of garbage in the steam room;
  • the door to the room opens only at the entrance;
  • the possibility of mounting heat-resistant glass for admiring an open flame.

There are two ways to install air inlets in a room:

1. Arrangement of a ventilation duct in the underground space. Removing it in front of the furnace room, installing ventilation grilles on the channel.

2. Floor supply of ventilation.

On the opposite wall, install the hood, diagonally in relation to the air inlet.

The main quality of the organization of proper ventilation is that the supply openings should coincide in area with the exhaust ones.

Ventilation scheme in a steam room with a firebox indoors

If the stove-heater is located directly in the steam room, then the organization of ventilation is different. In this case, air flows through the blower solve the problem with natural ventilation. This method is appropriate if the fire in the furnace is constantly.

If there is no chimney in the bath, and the stove operates in a short-term mode, a more advanced ventilation system is used. Familiarize yourself with the technology of arranging the ventilation system in the steam room:

1. Build a special brick podium on which the oven is installed. With its help, a ventilation duct is supplied to the furnace.

2. Lay the ends, build another box of bricks. As a result, the first design is installed at the top of the furnace channel, and the second - to the door of the steam room.

3. On a wall adjacent to a regular room, build doors in the places where the masonry passes. They heat the next room, if necessary.

4. An oven is installed on the podium, it can be mounted on a corner or on steel paintings. Finish the furnace with brick, install a brick screen, with two convection valves.

5. The exhaust ventilation system operates due to the furnace furnace.

Correct installation of the ventilation system is based on its correct adjustment. General rules for managing the ventilation system:

  • at the beginning of the furnace furnace, all openings and supply and exhaust are closed;
  • wait for the temperature to rise, then adjust the vents with valves;
  • if it is necessary to increase the volume of oxygen in the room, open the inlet;
  • upon completion of work, open the shutters for better ventilation of the steam room.

Steam room ventilation photo:

To determine the temperature and humidity in the room, use special devices. An alcohol or electric type thermometer will help measure the temperature. Please note that the use of the mercury version is strictly prohibited. Use a hygrometer to determine the humidity level.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system is based on the following factors:

  • melting the oven, the air is gradually heated and exits through the convection door;
  • the lower door remains open until the oven is fully heated;
  • close the door from below and work with the top hatch;
  • in the process of soaring, only the blower installed on the box opens;
  • after using the steam room for its intended purpose, ventilate the room well.

Do-it-yourself ventilation device in the steam room

The main functions of the ventilation system in the bath:

  • air supply during bath procedures;
  • high-quality room drying.

The ventilation system in the bath should not:

  • violate the temperature of the room, in the process of taking bath procedures;
  • to separate temperature flows, that is, cool air is closer to the floor, and warm air is from above;
  • remove unused air from the steam room.

In addition, the lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of unpleasant air in the room, the formation of mold and fungus, which are harmful to human health.

There are three main types of ventilation in the steam room:

  • the natural option is the supply of air flows through the pressure difference;
  • mechanical option - air supply using special mechanisms, when measuring these characteristics with instruments;
  • combined option - the creation of artificial pressure by fans and hoods.

There are two types of air transport in the room: supply and exhaust. For these purposes, a hole located diagonally with respect to the inlet is equipped.

It is not recommended to install an exhaust outlet in the steam room on the ceiling; this ventilation system increases the warm-up time of the room. It is rational to install the hood under the ceiling, additionally equipping a damper on it to adjust the draft.

In addition, provide a ventilated floor in the bath. Thus, the life of the floor covering is increased, as it is in constant contact with water. Recommendations for the arrangement of floor ventilation:

1. During the installation of the foundation base, ensure the ventilation of the floors, build vents from the basement.

2. On opposite walls, build ventilation holes that provide air flow. Install gratings on them to prevent rodents from entering.

3. The finished floor should be slightly higher in level than the blower is located. Thus, it will function as a hood.

4. Install wooden boards with a small gap, at least half a centimeter.

5. After taking bath procedures, ventilate the room well and dry the floors.

Another way to organize the ventilation system in the bath is “According to Bast”. In this case, fresh air enters the room from the ward space, and exhaust from the hole located near the door. For these purposes, build an exhaust box made of wood, lined with foil inside.

Build a ventilation duct under the floor, next to a metal sheet that prevents heat from entering it. The size of the structure should not exceed twenty percent. Adjusting the flow of fresh air through such a system is quite simple. It is enough to open the vent and blower. In addition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of an unpleasant aroma in the steam room. This method of organizing ventilation is appropriate if the firebox is located directly in the steam room.

Ways to organize ventilation in the steam room with your own hands

We offer the five most popular schemes for organizing supply ventilation in the steam room:

1. Scheme No. 1.

Install the inlet under the stove 50 cm from the floor, and the outlet on the opposite side, thirty centimeters from the ceiling. The forced movement of air masses is provided by a fan. Thus, it is possible to ensure uniform heating of the air. The height of the first opening regulates the draft force of natural ventilation.

2. Scheme No. 2.

Two ventilation holes are located on the same wall, always opposite the stove. The inlet is installed at a distance of thirty centimeters from the floor, and the outlet is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. Install a fan in the outlet, the cooled air, entering the room, collides with the stove, heats up and exits.

3. Scheme No. 3.

Position the inlet behind the stove, at a distance of about twenty centimeters from the floor. The inlet is installed at the same height, only near the ceiling of the opposite wall. A hood is installed in the second hole. The principle of operation of the system is based on the ingress of cooled air into the steam room, passing through the oven and pulling out the second hole.

4. Scheme No. 4.

This method is relevant for a steam room with a floor that has holes for water to drain. The inlet is installed behind the furnace, and the outlet is a drain pipe through which air is vented to the outside.

5. Scheme No. 5.

Relevant for a bath with a constantly working stove. The inlet is arranged opposite the stove, and the blower with a chimney acts as an outlet

If it is necessary to increase the temperature in the steam room, it is enough to close all the plugs. After taking bath procedures, they are removed. It is quite possible to organize these ventilation schemes on your own, without buying expensive appliances and special material investments.

How to make a vapor barrier for a steam room with your own hands

Vapor barrier in the steam room allows you to maintain the optimum temperature of the room. Special materials in the form of vapor-tight films, insulation and waterproofing will help create high-quality vapor barrier. The film provides protection of the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, while not letting in the moisture that is in the hot air.

Qualitatively equipped vapor barrier and ventilation system increase the service life of the room itself and its exterior finish. Since hot air rises, first of all, vapor barrier the ceiling with high quality.

For these purposes, use lahi, boards, about 6 cm thick. From above, they are covered with aluminum-based foil, cardboard with increased density or waxed paper soaked in drying oil. After fixing one of these materials, the ceiling is finished with clay and insulated.

In addition, the edged board will help to vaporize the ceiling. On the boards, cardboard impregnated with drying oil is installed, which is then sheathed with wooden clapboard.

Expanded polystyrene boards are a modern replacement for soft clay, they are distinguished by good thermal insulation and performance characteristics.

As vapor barrier materials for the walls of the steam room use:

  • ruberoid;
  • aluminum foil;
  • glassine;
  • film based on polyethylene.

Glassine and roofing material for thermal insulation of the steam room are rarely used. This is due to the fact that with strong heating, they emit toxic substances and unpleasant odors. The steam room is vapor-proofed with special foil materials. Allocate combined methods of vapor and thermal insulation. For example, NPP polypropylene, among its advantages we note:

  • excellent resistance to moisture;
  • resistance to temperature increase;
  • laminated coating prevents the development of mold and mildew;
  • combined thermal insulation.

In addition, it is possible to use rolled vapor barrier in the form of rolled foil or fiberglass boards. To seal the joints between vapor barrier materials, use foil tape.

The plates are installed on the ceiling with a small compensation gap of 20 mm. Thus, the effect of moisture on these areas is reduced. Please note that the vapor barrier in the steam room must be securely hidden behind the main finishing material, and a high-quality ventilation system is its complement.

Ventilation in the steam room video:

Going to the bath is not only one of the ways to wash yourself, but also to remove accumulated toxins and harmful substances from the body. The healing effect of the bath can be felt if the air outlets are properly arranged and the air is constantly renewed. Properly installed ventilation in the bath is the first necessity. Without it, musty, stagnant air disturbs the microclimate in the steam room and, together with high humidity, provokes the formation of fungi and mold.

The arrangement of exhaust, supply structures in the washing part of the bath and the steam room allows you to keep the building in its original form, protect it from premature aging, wear and decay. Ventilation is quite easy to install with your own hands, if you follow some rules.

Benefits of good ventilation

Ventilation has a huge role in bath rooms equipped with solid fuel and gas stoves. During the operation of such devices, an impressive volume of air is required in order to maintain combustion. The lack of a ventilation system, resulting in an excess of carbon dioxide, can provoke oxygen starvation of people.

Ignorant self-taught bath masters try to isolate the rooms as carefully as possible in order to increase the heating rate and retain heat for a long time. To do this, close up everything, even the smallest cracks, insulate the doorway so that cold air does not enter inside. But this is a fundamentally wrong approach to arranging a bath, there must be ventilation holes. A properly planned ventilation system contributes to:

  • creating the right microclimate;
  • decrease in humidity;
  • getting rid of carbon dioxide;
  • elimination of unpleasant, musty air;
  • rapid heating of the room;
  • getting rid of mold and pathogenic fungi;
  • preservation of interior decoration;
  • fast drying and getting rid of excess moisture.

As you can see, the constant circulation of air masses in the bath rooms is really necessary. In order to qualitatively mount ventilation in the bath, you need to familiarize yourself with its varieties and installation schemes.

Types of ventilation systems

Ventilation structures are distinguished by the type of device. The following types are commonly used:

  • natural;
  • forced (mechanical);
  • combined.

natural ventilation

For good natural ventilation of the room, even during construction, special openings are provided through which air exchange occurs. They are equipped with special covers or dampers so that, if necessary, the circulation of air masses can be stopped.

The basis of this type of ventilation system is the difference in pressure and temperature between the street and the inside of the bath. The effectiveness of this method lies in the correct location of the vents. A place for air to enter is usually located behind the stove, 0.3 m from the floor, and for exhaust, on the opposite wall, about 0.3 m from the ceiling.

This option for providing ventilation for the steam room is not entirely suitable. The ventilation in the steam room must be equipped in such a way that the outlet is at the same level as the inlet. The incoming air warms up, passing through the furnace, rises up, and then the already cooled down goes down and enters the exhaust hole. All vents can be closed if necessary to keep warm.

The effectiveness of this method can be increased by lowering the second hole closer to the floor and installing fans, but this option will already be considered mechanical.

Forced ventilation

Mechanical ventilation of the room is carried out by installing special fans on the vents. This contributes to a fairly rapid renewal of air, which is indispensable in a room such as a washing room. This method of ventilation is convenient when steam is pumped into the bath with a special device; its excess is easily removed.

The artificial ventilation system has a number of advantages compared to the natural one:

  1. It is possible to filter the incoming air.
  2. The microclimate is constantly maintained at a given level.
  3. The heated air masses are distributed evenly.

The forced ventilation system is much better than the natural one. However, in any case, it is necessary to pay attention to the correct location of the ventilation ducts.

Air vents: location diagrams

How to make ventilation in the bath, the question is quite interesting. There are several different schemes for arranging exhaust and supply ducts.

Scheme 1

Both openings (inlet and outlet) are located on the same wall opposite the furnace. Air enters from an outlet located about 0.3 m from the floor, and exits into the second, located 0.3 m from the ceiling. Cold air masses that have entered the room are heated by the stove, rise up and, having made a circle, are pulled out. Such a scheme is very convenient if only one wall of the steam room goes out into the street.

Scheme 2

Sometimes the oven itself (heater) is used as an extractor hood. This ventilation option works only with a constant heating stove and functions according to the following principle:

  • the supply channel is located below the heater;
  • exhaust work is performed by a blower and a chimney;
  • the air entering the bath warms up, rises;
  • having made a semicircle, the cooled air masses go down, then go out into the street from the pipe.

Scheme 3

The following diagram shows how to ventilate a steam room with a slatted (leaking) floor. In such a room, only one outlet is installed for air intake. It is located behind the stove. With this arrangement of the ventilation system, the cooled air descends through the grate into the basement, from where it is sent out through the exhaust pipe raised to the roof.

Such a ventilation system allows you to simultaneously establish the correct air exchange and dry the floor. This method significantly increases the life of the wood coating.

Ventilation in the Russian bath

For a Russian steam room, where steam has always been prepared by hand, none of the forced ventilation schemes will work. With this arrangement of the ventilation holes, all the hard-cooked, healthy steam will come out. You can refresh such a room by simple ventilation or by equipping a small grill at the bottom of the door.

Turkish bath ventilation

Ventilation of such a steam room must be very effective. The Turkish bath or hammam has almost 100% humidity, pumped by steam generators. Therefore, for an hour of work, the air in the room must be changed several times.

Another feature of such a bath is the formation of a large amount of condensate, which must also be removed. To do this, special dehumidifiers are mounted in the exhaust pipes.

Ventilation in a brick bath

The peculiarity of a brick bath is in the material from which it is made. Brick is quite hygroscopic and easily absorbs moisture. Without high-quality ventilation, such a bath will very quickly become unusable and it will be necessary to dry not only the elements of interior decoration, but also the walls.

In such rooms, the inflow and outflow of air must be very active. Vents are arranged in such a way that it is possible to regulate flows.

Features of the ventilation system in the bath

Now it is more or less clear how the ventilation system should work. But you need to take into account other points, the ventilation system should not:

  • violate the temperature regime in the room;
  • allow cold flow to the ceiling;
  • remove fresh air, but only already exhausted.

If you pay attention to all these subtleties, follow the suggested tips, then building a ventilation system with your own hands is not difficult. This will save a lot, because calling the master will cost a pretty decent amount.

The dream of any homeowner or summer resident is his own bathhouse. Here you can relax and take a steam bath, as well as improve your body after hard everyday life. However, this is possible only if normal conditions are observed in the steam room. There should be no drafts in the steam room, there should be a certain level of humidity and a fairly high temperature.

Lack of humidity in the room, excess of carbon dioxide can cause irreparable harm to health. Do you need ventilation in the steam room? To ensure the required circulation of fresh and hot air, it is simply indispensable to do without it.

Does a steam room need ventilation?

Let's imagine a picture: there are several people with brooms in the steam room. They steam with great pleasure, breathe actively, thereby releasing carbon dioxide, which, in turn, mixes with hot steam and air. Gradually it becomes harder to breathe, there is no flow of fresh air. To take a sip of it, you need to leave the steam room. Is there enough strength for this? What needs to be done to ensure comfortable conditions in the steam room?

Steam room ventilation options

Properly executed ventilation creates comfortable conditions in the steam room. This is due to the effective movement of the air flow that comes from the furnace and from the outside, and also exits through special openings to the outside. In most cases, ventilation in the steam room is based on the principle of the natural removal of exhaust saturated air from the room and the inflow of fresh air. This is very important in buildings made of wood, because excess moisture leads to rapid damage to the walls of the structure.

A steam room with a small area does not require special expensive equipment. If the walls of the steam room are made of bricks, and 10-12 people can be freely accommodated in the room, then it will be necessary to install a supply valve or an exhaust fan. With the help of forced ventilation, you can automatically adjust the temperature, humidity and ventilation in the steam room is necessary for the following reasons:

  • The appearance of an unpleasant smell in the room.
  • Mold and fungus on wooden structures.
  • Appearances on the surface of the walls and ceiling of condensate.
  • Mechanical ventilation - the inflow and outflow of air is carried out using fans. Such a system allows you to create comfortable air exchange in any room. But in the steam room, this will be associated with large financial costs.
  • Combined ventilation - the outflow of exhaust air is carried out with the help of an exhaust fan, the inflow of fresh air - through the inlet in a natural way.

Mechanical or natural ventilation - which is better?

Mechanical ventilation may well be used, but its use is associated with some inconveniences:

  1. To increase or decrease the intensity of air exchange, it will be necessary to cover the outlet valve in order to create an additional load on the fan.
  2. Air extraction can be carried out with such intensity that in order to maintain the required steam temperature, it will be necessary to additionally heat the sauna stove.

Therefore, we dwell in more detail on natural ventilation. How to make ventilation in the steam room without spending a lot of money?

Ventilation device in the steam room

The simplest option is a supply and exhaust opening in the foundation or walls. In this case, the location and size of these holes plays an important role. Sometimes, for more active air exchange, ventilation equipment can be installed.

There is no single ventilation scheme for the steam rooms, as they are different not only in terms of design features, but also in the materials from which they are built. In this case, there are some rules, adhering to which, you can choose the most optimal ventilation for a particular case.

Holes must be calculated based on the volume of the steam room: for example, for 1 m3 of ventilated area, the size of the hole should be 24 cm2.

The main task in the bath is ventilation in the steam room, which is necessary to maintain a sufficient level of temperature and high humidity, but you should not make ventilation holes too small, as this will not provide the required level of air exchange. The size of the exhaust openings must match the size of the supply, otherwise air exchange will be disturbed. In some situations, for quick drying of the bath and quick removal of exhaust air, it is allowed to make two exhaust holes.

Locations of supply and exhaust openings

In most cases, the oven is located in the steam room. The supply opening must be located near the stove at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the floor. This is the most popular, but not the best option for organizing ventilation for a steam room. In this case, it is much more efficient when the air inlets are located under the floor in the foundation. To avoid the penetration of rodents, it is desirable to equip these openings with metal bars.

Such ventilation in the steam room will solve two problems at the same time: it will deliver fresh air to the bath, and it will also effectively dry the walls and floors after the procedures are completed. In this case, it is desirable to lay with a small gap to ensure the free passage of air flow.

Ventilation sleeves

To ensure the required air conditions during the heating of the steam room, the ventilation ducts are equipped with special plugs (lids) that can be closed (opened) from the steam room, thereby regulating air exchange, temperature and humidity.

Efficient moisture removal

In order for the ventilation in the steam room to be effective with your own hands, it is forbidden to do the following:

  • Install ventilation vents that are smaller than the calculated ones.
  • Place the exhaust and supply openings opposite each other - after all, the incoming air flow is removed almost immediately, without having time to give up oxygen, as a result, a draft is formed, which is contraindicated for the steam room.

Consider the most popular options for ventilation systems in the steam room:

Ventilation in the steam room of the bath, scheme - which one to choose?

The schemes listed above are the most commonly used in steam rooms, but there are many combinations and variations. Based on the options for ventilation systems presented above, you can develop your own scheme for a specific version of the steam room.

Ventilation is needed in all rooms, the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41-01-2003. But they concern only residential, public and industrial premises in which conditions favorable for a person are created. At the same time, it is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and for everyone it is necessary to create the same standard indicators of the microclimate and air quality.

Baths have completely different tasks, they create a stressful microclimate for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to + 60 ° C, in saunas more than + 100 ° C) and high humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, the temperature and humidity indicators should vary widely, depending on the wishes of the washers. Changing the microclimate parameters should be carried out as soon as possible, and the achieved values ​​should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And another very important difference between the bath and ordinary rooms. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothes, then this is impossible to do in the baths.

Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - high temperature and hot steam

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must perform individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and features of operation. Ventilation in the bath can be natural and forced, each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article, we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation - natural.

We have already found out the tasks of bath ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it's time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember the lessons of physics from school. Ventilation of premises occurs due to the difference in air density in the street and in the room. Warm air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave, and cold air must be allowed to enter, inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet, you can find statements that these holes must necessarily have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blowing in the wrong direction”. Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the size of the inlet and outlet of air does not affect the performance of ventilation.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount will enter the cold room, no matter what the size of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect of reverse thrust is obtained in the case of wind backwater or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind "drives" the air into the room, in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a back-to-back basis. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero, the air moves a little only near the holes.

And with these phenomena it is clear, now we will consider specific types of natural ventilation of the bath. Let's start with the simplest ones and work our way up to the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective way of ventilation.

In the steam room, the door opens or the door and the window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not in the way we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

  1. Firstly, if you open the door, then the steam does not go out into the street, but into other rooms. Humidity rises sharply in them, heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. What can happen next - no need to explain.

  2. Secondly. Lowering the temperature in the steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. The actual temperature is a physical indicator, the perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature in different ways depending on environmental factors. Increased humidity "increases" the temperature we feel, strong wind lowers it. So, due to simple ventilation, only excess steam can be removed, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values ​​​​within a few minutes.

  3. Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable indicators of the microclimate in the room. As soon as the doors are closed, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors are opened, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.

Bottom line - ventilation is not the method of ventilation that should be used all the time. This is an extreme method, it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is possible only in one case - the furnace of the sauna stove is located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; it can enter through floor cracks, an ajar window or door. Sometimes a special hole is made in the lower part of the door leaf; to improve the design, it is closed with a decorative grille.

Benefits of ventilating a bath with a stove.

  1. Ease of execution. There is no need to make special products in the log house. Any additional hole in a wooden wall does not improve its performance, to put it mildly. If mistakes were made during the period of making the vents and installing decorative gratings, then the risks of moisture getting onto the crowns of the log house increase. Moisture will dry out for a very long time, and prolonged stay of wooden structures in a wet state has an extremely negative effect on their strength and durability of use.

  2. The ability to control the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by the damper and the stove doors. It is necessary to speed it up - the damper and the furnace door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the damper closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the gate, the microclimate in the steam room stabilizes, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.

    Stove with gate - photo

  3. Versatility of application. It does not matter what materials the bath is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features are. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet behind the stove and the air entering the bath will be slightly warmed up. The exhaust is still the chimney.

There are, of course, disadvantages, we will name the main ones.

  1. Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
  2. The presence of "dead" zones. Mixing of air throughout the volume does not occur, there are zones with drafts and zones with stagnant air.
  3. Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in "budget" baths.

For a budget steam room, the best option is to ventilate the stove and ventilate

Airing the bath with a stove - scheme

The best option for ventilation devices for most baths.

Advantages:


Important. It is desirable to think over the ventilation device even before the start of the construction of the bath. Solve questions with the specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the ducts no more than the height of the beam, and to adjust the length of the holes.

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Why is it better to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

  1. Firstly, it is much more physically difficult to make holes in an already finished building.

    Drilling a hole in a log house is a laborious process.

  2. Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet air. It is located in close proximity to the Mauerlats of the truss system, and they are fixed more often than ordinary crowns, and only metal bars or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.

  3. Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then an expensive tool will fail after a “meeting” with a dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after trying to cut through the metal.

  4. Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, with a hacksaw as well, but you won’t wish the enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to poke the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the bath wall or an increase in its size? Especially if you have already made holes in the outer and inner skin and bought ventilation grilles under its “planned” dimensions. "Meeting" with a metal dowel is a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.

Variants of placement and sizes of ventilation products

There are a few general rules for all natural ventilation products. Firstly, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air inlets should be located at the bottom of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The exit holes should be placed at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. Where are they recommended to be installed?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bath. This saves time and effort, in addition, the possibility of getting wet of the lower rims of the log house is excluded. The disadvantage is that in most cases the doors are located opposite the shelves for taking bath procedures, cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf

Advantages - the inlet is imperceptible, cold air flows are well mixed with warm air throughout the volume. The disadvantage is that access to the grate for opening / closing the damper is more difficult. If during washing it is possible to regulate the intensity of ventilation only with the help of the upper grate, then after airing the baths, both should be closed. And this means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed two for each - outside and inside the steam room. After airing the baths, both should be closed. Choose a grille installation technology that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden to get atmospheric moisture on the crowns of the log house.

Behind the oven.

Air inlet behind the furnace - diagram

The best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate and low-speed flows. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature adversely affects the plastic or wooden materials of the decorative grille. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet metal using thermal insulation.

Doesn't fit your particular case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice - do not do it in the ceiling. Waterlogged air cannot be taken out to the attic, it will cause constant wetting of the wooden elements of the truss system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, moist air will have to be brought to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the coating, why worsen the tightness of the roof coating with your own hands and at your own expense?

Dimensions of openings for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the dimensions of ventilation openings is indicated in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises, the minimum value of the multiplicity is regulated, while both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside are taken into account. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within insignificant limits, which simplifies the work of designers.

In pairs, the situation is much more complicated - the temperature and humidity indicators vary over a very wide range. In addition, the rate of arrival / entry of air in different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it virtually impossible to accurately calculate the optimum air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bath owners are afraid to suffocate while taking bath procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam, the bill goes to tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you closed the stove gate before the firewood is completely burned out, then no ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if there is no more carbon monoxide coming in. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of the bath

For example, we will take the most difficult option - the outer and inner lining of the walls of the bath has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its dimensions and configuration. It is desirable that air ducts and decorative grilles are available, this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the hole and not do extra work.

Step 2 Prepare a long drill for wood, the working length should exceed the thickness of the bath wall together with the outer and inner lining. In the center of the drawn contour of the vent, drill a through hole from the inside of the steam room. The exit of the drill outside the steam room will be the center of the air. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3 Remove the elements of the inner and outer skin in the contour. If your bath is sheathed on both sides with natural clapboard, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4 Carefully inspect the supporting structures of the skin, if they are damaged, repair. Drill through holes as close as possible to each other along the contour of the ventilation duct, constantly check where they exit from the outside of the wall. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe vent, the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large diameter hole in a tree

Step 5. Next, you need to work with a chisel and a chisel, gradually remove the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely gouge a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half of the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. It is not necessary to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can proceed with the installation of the duct and gratings. Don't be discouraged if it takes a long time to make holes, even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes a day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can take metal galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grate according to the size of the hole; to adjust the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

Prices for air ducts

duct

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool, carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use mounting foam. Excess foam that has come out should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2 If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, foam the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from entering the wooden structures.

Step 3 Fasten the gratings, the method of fastening depends on the material of manufacture of the wall cladding and the crate.

We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo - the grill on the outside of the bath

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Check ventilation with a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air flows in the steam room.

In the photo, the air inflow valve and its performance check

Experiment with natural ventilation at various damper settings, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installing the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bath with a Termofor air conditioner

In order for bath procedures to bring only benefit and pleasure, two conditions are necessary:

  • high level of temperature and humidity in the steam room;
  • the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen.

These seemingly mutually exclusive tasks are solved by ventilation in the bathhouse in general and in the steam room in particular. Despite the fact that high humidity and temperature should be maintained in the steam room of the Russian bath, one cannot do without access to fresh (cold) air: oxygen is processed by our lungs, partially burned out by the stove, and carbon monoxide (CO is the chemical formula carbon monoxide).

How to make ventilation in the bath. In the figure, red arrows show the movement of hot air, blue - cold

If you do not organize the replacement of “exhausted” air with fresh air, instead of improving health and increasing efficiency (this is what we go to the bath for), you can get lethargy, weakness and headache at best, and at worst - a hospital bed or even a place in the cemetery.

Properly arranged ventilation provides air circulation, while oxygen enters in sufficient quantities, and carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide are released into the atmosphere. After the end of the bath procedures, with good ventilation, the steam is actively removed outside the building, and the rooms in which there was previously high humidity dry out. If this aspect was not given sufficient attention, after a couple of years in the steam room, and then in other rooms, the lining rots, the smell of mustiness and sweat appears and gradually increases, and the wood turns into dust. Now, I hope, it is clear whether ventilation is needed in the bath ...


Heating and ventilation of the bath. Please note that the exhaust hole is located at a low height from the floor - as a rule, not higher than 50 cm. With this scheme, exhaust steam is released into the atmosphere. Moreover, the floor in the steam room warms up well

Ventilation in the bath is not needed in only one case: if it is all built of wood and has not been insulated anywhere - neither inside nor outside. In this case, air exchange occurs due to the fact that the wood "breathes". Even in this case, they talk about the presence of natural ventilation in the bath: any wood has pores and cracks through which the outflow / inflow of air occurs, temperature and humidity are regulated. But if there is insulation or moisture / vapor insulation in the bath from rounded logs, then the creation of additional ventilation holes is necessary.

There are three types of ventilation:

  1. mechanical ventilation. In this case, the inflow and outflow of air masses occurs due to artificially created air movement. Air parameters are controlled by technical means.
  2. Natural ventilation: circulation occurs due to the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. This method is possible only if there are "breathing" walls or thoughtfully arranged ventilation vents.
  3. Combined ventilation: the simultaneous use of the natural movement of air masses and technical devices (in the simplest case, fans).

The video below shows a variant of combined ventilation.

In a specific case, 100 micron aluminum foil was used in the construction of the ventilation duct.

Bath ventilation device

In the simplest version, the ventilation system of a steam room or bath consists of two (sometimes more) holes in the walls and / or foundation: supply and exhaust. The whole trick is in choosing the location of these holes and in their sizes. Sometimes, to provide more active air exchange, fans can be installed.


Heating and ventilation of the bath. In the simplest case, the exhaust vent is located near the ceiling

There is no single ventilation scheme for a bath: they are too different both in design features and in the materials from which they are made. But there are general rules and some of the most common schemes, adhering to which, you can choose the optimal ventilation for your particular case.

The dimensions of the ventilation openings are calculated based on the volume of the steam room: for one cubic meter of ventilated area, the size of the openings should be 24 cm 2.

Despite the fact that the main task in the bath is to maintain high humidity in the steam room and a sufficient level of temperature, it is impossible to make the ventilation holes too small: they will not provide the necessary level of air exchange. Exhaust vents must match the size of the supply: if the proportions are violated, air exchange will also be insufficient. In some cases, to speed up the removal of exhaust air and speed up the drying of the bath, two exhaust holes can be made.


To ensure the required air conditions when heating the steam room, special covers / plugs are made on the ventilation ducts that can be opened / closed from the steam room, thereby regulating humidity / temperature / air exchange. Generally speaking, the presence of plugs or covers on any vent facing the street is a must: in winter, cold air actively rushes into a warm room and the presence of covers or regulators to stop it is necessary.

Where can there be supply and exhaust openings

Most often, at least partially located in the steam room. In this case, the supply hole is made near the furnace at a distance no higher than 30 cm from the floor. The incoming cold air quickly warms up from the furnace and rises. This is quite popular, but not the best way to organize ventilation for a bath. Ventilation is much more effective when the supply holes are located in the foundation under the floor (so that rodents do not penetrate through them, the holes are equipped with metal bars). This option solves two problems at once: it delivers fresh air to the bath, and also effectively dries the floors and walls after the procedures are completed. The floor boards, in this case, are not laid close, but with a small gap for the free passage of air. If you don’t want to leave gaps in the floor (although this is very good for a bath), you can make several ventilation holes in the floor, covered with wooden grates. The air movement in this case will not be so active, more powerful fans may be needed, but the circuit will remain operational.


When planning the supply vents in the foundation, keep in mind that the air in the bath should come from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise it will have a musty smell. To organize air intake from the street, a box made of wood (often home-made), plastic or metal (ready-made) is placed in the hole, and it is also taken out near the stove. Usually, inlets are located in the area that is protected by a metal or asbestos sheet from coals and firebrands.

Ventilation openings in the foundation are provided at the planning stage. If the foundation is already ready, but there are no ventilation holes, you can make the floor ventilation in the steam room differently: lay the floor boards on the logs, but not close to each other, but with a gap of 0.5-1 cm. In the gap between the draft (earth / concrete) floor and the finishing floor, an outlet is arranged, which passes into a ventilation pipe that leads the exhaust air to the roof (but not to the attic). This option provides for the presence of only one inlet, which is usually arranged below the heater. The exhaust pipe under the floor is installed on the opposite side of the room (but not opposite, but obliquely).

It is impossible to make an exhaust pipe in a steam room from plastic boxes for ventilation - they cannot withstand high temperatures, but it is permissible to use them in a locker room or washing department.

With such a ventilation scheme in the steam room, cold air warms up near the stove, rises, then, cooling down, falls down, seeps through the cracks in the floor under the floor and is discharged through the outlet pipe. These two options effectively remove moisture after the bath, they can also be considered floor ventilation schemes in the bath.


Exhaust openings can be located on the opposite wall from the supply opening (if both of these walls face the street) or on the same wall, but in the opposite corner. There is a scheme in which they are located at the top on the opposite wall (30 cm from the ceiling), sometimes they are located below (30 cm from the floor). If the exhaust vent is at the bottom or on the same wall as the supply vent, a fan is needed to create airflow.

In order for the ventilation in the bath to remain effective, it is impossible:

  • make ventilation vents smaller than calculated ones;
  • to place the supply and exhaust openings one opposite the other - so the incoming air is almost immediately removed without giving up oxygen, a draft is formed, which is contraindicated for a bath.

Steam room ventilation schemes

Consider some of the most common options for ventilation in the steam room:


These are the most commonly used ventilation schemes for steam rooms in the bath, there are many more variations and combinations. Based on these four options for organizing ventilation, you can develop a scheme for your steam room.

Ventilation in the washing section of the bath

In the washing room, high humidity is a common thing, and so that the lining does not rot or an unpleasant smell appears, it is necessary to provide floor ventilation. It is arranged similarly to floor ventilation in a steam room: an exhaust hole is made between the rough and finishing floors, which can be equipped with a fan. The exhaust pipe is displayed on the roof.

With such a floor ventilation scheme in the washing compartment, the coldest exhaust air is removed, and warmer air from the upper layers descends in its place. Thus, an increase in the comfort of the people living here is also achieved.


The principle of the ventilation device in all other rooms of the bath is the same. You need to decide on the optimal ventilation system specifically for your conditions and select / develop the most suitable scheme. The ventilation in the washing department differs only in that, due to lower air temperatures, plastic ventilation ducts can be used here (which cannot be done in the steam room) and fans can be installed not heat-resistant, but only tolerant of high humidity (moisture-proof).

Brick and Turkish bath ventilation

When planning a ventilation system for a brick bath, it must be taken into account that its efficiency should be several times higher than that of a wooden one. Indeed, in this case, it will be necessary to dry not only the inner lining of the steam room / washing / locker room, but also the walls: brick is a very hygroscopic material. To remove all moisture, it is necessary that the inflow / outflow of air during drying be very active, and the vents should have reliable dampers that allow you to adjust the intensity of air movement.

When arranging ventilation with its 100% humidity, exhaust ventilation must also be very efficient: in an hour of operation, it is necessary to provide six changes of air in the room. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing condensate, which forms during cooling in large quantities. There are two ways to solve this problem: install an air dryer in the pipe, which discharges condensate into the sewer system, or provide a channel for condensate drainage in the ventilation pipe (it also goes into the sewer).

Output: it is necessary to plan ventilation at the design stage of the bath, placing supply vents in the foundation. If necessary, you can make vents in the finished walls, but this is quite troublesome and difficult.