It would seem that there is nothing complicated in painting tools. Did you know that there are several types of brushes alone? You can familiarize yourself with them and other tools for painting work below.
Brushes, rollers and other sophisticated tools
Handbrake brushes - small brushes with a round panicle and handle. In terms of functionality, they are almost universal. Hand knobs work with varnish, oil paints, wallpaper and other adhesives, whitewash, etc. (see article). There are handbrake brushes made of spinal bristles and horse bristles, which are considered second-rate. And also with adhesive fastening of the villi (used only for paints), and fastening in a metal frame.
The bristles on new handbrakes are usually too long. Therefore, it is tied with a string. One way is to make a double loop of twine at the base of the bristle. Hold the last with your finger and rotate the brush so that the long end of the string is wound. In this case, the short one coming from the loop is wrapped with bristles. The winding should be about half the length of the bristles. The long end of the string is then tied to the short end. The second time they are tied at the base of the brush.
Flutes brushes Are flatter, more specialized brushes. With their help, paint small surfaces and smooth the paint after coarse brushes. And that's all. The width of the panicle ranges from 3 cm (for hard-to-reach places) to 12 cm. The best flute tassels are those made of badger fur.
Brush - used for whitewashing the ceiling or spreading glue on the wallpaper. Its dimensions are impressive. The width of the panicle sometimes reaches 18 cm, and the length of the bristles is 11 cm. Maklovitsa is rectangular and round, removable and attached to the shoe. And also from pork bristles, horsehair or nylon.
End brush - resembles a rectangular bakeware. Only its handle is not fixed perpendicularly, but parallel to the panicle. With the help of the end brush, they do not paint, but create a rough texture of the surfaces. To use a brush, tap the paint that is still wet - the result will not disappoint!
Fly brush Is, in fact, a large flute brush. The diameter of the panicle is 7-9 cm. The front of the works is the same as that of the double. Plus washing of walls and ceilings.
Panel brushes - from the word "panel", ie narrow band, straight line. It will crawl where the handbrake has not got through. They are round, with a hair length of up to 4 cm, and flat, up to 1 cm.
Scrub brush - made from linden bark. Serves for whitewashing house facades, tree trunks, fences, etc. Previously, it was used for interior work - it was used to whitewash the stoves and walls in the house.
Many brushes experience a reset in their lives. This is when they are washed from paint compounds. Brushes after oil paints washed with turpentine or kerosene, after nitro paints - in a nitro solvent. Then they both wash with warm water and soap. Brushes smeared with glue or lime are simply washed with clean warm water.
Rollers - are divided into fur, velor (for enamels and oil paints), foam (varnishes, primers and water-based paints), and textured - for textured finishing materials. Fur rollers are long-haired, which paint over uneven surfaces well, and with a short haircut - for smooth surfaces.
Wallpaper knife - consists of a body and a retractable blade. It happens that there are several blades in the holder. And it happens that one, but it can be replaced with a new one. However, no one does this, since the tool costs a penny. Serves for cutting wallpaper, cardboard, thick paper, etc.
Mixing nozzle - with its help, several multi-colored paints are mixed, varnishes are stirred, etc. Outwardly, it looks like a sphere, a blade of a motor boat or a spiral with stirrups and a life ring at the end.
Paint tray - a small reservoir. Consists of two zones - a depression where paint is poured. And the mesh on which the roller is squeezed from this very paint. To do this, simply roll the roller back and forth on the net.
Painting sprayers - used when you need to paint well, very much! There are good old hand sprayers and pneumatic ones. As an example, a spray gun, or a vacuum cleaner with a special spray nozzle.
Also, for painting work, you may need an extension handle for the roller, it is also a wooden handle. Stepladder, she is a table covered with newspapers. And also a bucket as a container for diluting paints. And the ruler, scissors, masking tape as themselves.
... Hand tools for painting work.
Brushes: and) - flywheel; b) - large maklovitsa; in) - handbrake ; r) - flutes; spatulas: d) - steel; f) - plastic; s) - rubber; rollers: e) - foam; and) - pile; to) - angular.
Mechanisms:
Manual spray gun (and ), spray gun (b) , and the high pressure unit (in ) . .
1 - air nozzle; 2 - paint supply nozzle; 3 - plug; 4 - needle of the paint supply valve; 5 - body; 6 - needle travel stop; 7 - air valve; 8 - trigger; 9 - handle; air hose; 11 - exhaust valve; 12 - receiver body; 13 - manual liquid pump; 14 - inlet valve; 15 - paint supply hose; 16 - paint filter; 17 - spray nozzle; 18 - fishing rod; 19 - paint supply valve.
Spray guns - these are tools for the non-contact application of paint compositions by spraying small liquid particles on the surface to be painted (Fig. 76). Spraying liquid can be carried out aerosol in a stream of air and non-aerosol by squeezing paint under high pressure through a nozzle. The easiest to use are hand-held guns - compressed air spray guns. Their disadvantage is the formation of an aerosol cloud in the room within a few minutes after starting work. Painting large areas without frequent color changes can be done with high pressure painting units. For painting with lime and glue paints, a hand-held spray gun is used, but today these paints are almost never used.
42. Production of wallpaper works.
Wallpaper works are carried out by painters simultaneously with painting work at the facility. Preparation for pasting is carried out in the same way as preparation for painting. After wallpapering the room, you can lay carpet, install skirting boards and casings on door frames.
Types of wallpaper: thin paper; medium density; dense; heavy and linkrust; ceiling and glass wallpaper (embossed fiberglass). The width of the wallpaper is usually 0.5 and 1.0 meters. Thin wallpaper is glued with an overlap, and all others - end-to-end (in finished form). Lincrust and some expensive wallpaper are overlapped for precise trimming. All wallpaper before the sticker is cut to the height of the room with a margin of 5 - 6 cm, while wallpaper with a geometric pattern (rapport) is calculated with the addition of the size of the pattern step to the height of the room to all panels except the first. This is necessary in order to be able to align the pattern in adjacent panels. All types of wallpaper, except glass wallpaper and ceiling, are coated with glue immediately before the sticker. The base is glued in advance and must be completely dry by the beginning of the wallpaper. Before the beginning of the sticker, on the surface, the position of the first edge of the panel must be marked with a vertical line.
The corners are overlapped with a panel by about 50 mm. Large overlapping can lead to wrinkles in the wallpaper. All wallpaper adhesives produced today are based on carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) with various additives. Glue dissolved in water with the consistency of thick jelly, is applied to the panel cut to size with a brush or roller. The prepared panel is folded into three layers, served to a painter - a gluer, standing on a scaffold or a step-ladder and glued from the ceiling to the floor. Air bubbles are squeezed out with a soft rubber roller from the middle to the edges with simultaneous correction of the joint of the panels. Correctly selected and applied glue allows you to move the panel over the base by 5 - 10 mm. within 2 - 3 minutes. During the production of work, the humidity in the room rises significantly, but the rooms cannot be ventilated. Otherwise, the wallpaper paper will dry faster than the glue, which will cause the panels to shrink and open the seams. Cutting the edges of the joints and the stock is performed before the glue dries, after which the edges are folded back and additionally coated with glue. Ceiling wallpaper is made of materials that have minimal deformation with changes in humidity, which allows them to be glued without moisture, i.e. the glue is applied not to the wallpaper, but to the surface to be sprayed. At the same time, the wallpaper is simply rolled out of the roll and pressed with a roller.
The surface to be painted usually has dents, pits, scratches and other defects, which can be removed and leveled with putties. Putting does not increase the protective properties of the coatings: too thick and insufficiently elastic layer of the putty is prone to cracking, as a result of which the strength of the entire coating is compromised.
Putties are applied on well-dried soil with a wooden, plastic or metal spatula (Fig. 33, a-e) (for flat surfaces) or a piece of rubber sheet (for curved surfaces). The fillers can also be applied with a paint sprayer or special rods with a 6 mm nozzle.
Figure: 33. Hand tools:
a-e - spatulas, g - block for sanding paper, h - scrapers, and - device for surface grinding; 1 - cloth, 2 - pad, 3 - cap, 4 - handle, 5 - tray, 6 - holder, 7 - pads, 8 - soft base, 9 - sanding paper, 10 - clamping screw, 11 - shaped scraper, 12 - scraper with extended handle, 13 - steel brushes
For better adhesion of the putty to the ground, the surface is plastered to roughen it, and then the dust is removed. The latter is necessary, since even the thinnest layer of dust sharply deteriorates adhesion.
For a more effective leveling, the surface is first putty in the deepest places. After drying, the putty areas are treated with sandpaper (Fig. 33, g-i), if necessary, these areas or the entire surface are putty again.
It is ineffective to putty the surface in more than 3 layers. The thickness of each layer of putty should not exceed 0.5 mm for oil, varnish and perchlorovinyl, 1 mm for epoxy and other similar putties.
Application of paints and varnishes with a brush is one of the oldest methods of staining, known for many centuries. Now this operation is used for painting small and complex configurations of areas and surfaces with high-quality and alfrey finishing, for correcting defects during repairs, etc.
In addition, the method of painting with a brush has a number of advantages - it is simple, the paint and varnish material adheres well to the base when shading, and materials are economically consumed. The disadvantages include high labor intensity (1m 2 for 4-6 minutes).
The coloring composition is applied with a brush cone without strong pressure, while the material lays down in wide stripes, which are then shaded in the horizontal and vertical directions. The brush is held at an angle of 45-60 ° to the surface to be painted.
Figure: 34. Hand tools and devices:
a - a tray for rollers and brushes, b - a knife for cleaning glass, c - a roller with a lead, d - wallpaper scissors, e - a roller knife, f - a brush, g - a paint roller, h-k - a device for cleaning and painting pipes ; 1 - body, 2 - handle, 3 - mesh for rollers, 4 - cells for brushes, 5 - pads, 6 - blade, 7 - clamping screw, 8 - clamping screw of the lead, 9 - lead, 10 - rail, 11 - roller , 12, 15 - movable holder, 13 - clamp, 14 - brush, 16 - coated writing roller, 17 - working part, 18 - fixed holder, 19 - ejector
There are a wide variety of brushes available in sizes, weights, shapes, materials, and for many different operations. The best material is pork bristle, which has a naturally conical shape and bifurcation of the ends of the hair, which allows you to achieve high quality coverage. For normal dyeing, use combined brushes made of pork bristles and hair of other animals or plant fibers, as well as synthetic materials (nylon, nylon, etc.). The latter are more durable.
The size of the brush corresponds to the type of work. The largest ones are called flywheels, they are used to paint walls, ceilings, floors, roofs, etc. According to the mass of bristles, they are made in 200, 300, 400 and 600 g, for which the bundles are tied with twine and put on the pointed end of the handle with a length of 1 up to 1.5 m. On top of 1 / 2-2 / 3 of the length of the beam, the working part is also wrapped with twine. The remaining free bristles have different lengths for different coloring compositions: shorter - for oil, enamel (with rubbing on the surface), longer - for water.
As the brush abrades, the coils are gradually removed. Choose with two-handed swinging brushes.
Smaller brushes for one-handed operation are called round and flat hand brakes. In round hand brakes, the bristles are glued in the groove at the end of the handle, and in flat ones they are clamped in a tin or plastic rim of the brush. The dimensions of the handbrake are denoted by even numbers from 6 to 30.
Stencil staining uses stencil brushes with shorter and stiffer bristles.
To execute thin lines, use the outcropping (flowing) brushes made of long squirrel hair.
Figure: 35. Paint brushes (a-g) and trimming (h, i)
Wide soft brushes made of long badger hair - flutes - are used to smooth the freshly painted surface and remove strokes and strokes from the brush. Flats are made round and flat. When working, the flutes are not dipped in paint, but used dry and held perpendicular to the surface without pressure.
Facing brushes are used to roughen the surface. They are made from short bleached bristles fixed on a 100 x 200 mm wooden frame. When working with dry facing, they hit a freshly painted surface.
For other purposes, special brushes are used: maklovitsy, curly, paneled, etc.
For successful work, you must follow certain rules for working with brushes.
Any new brush contains dust and broken hairs, so wash it in warm soapy water and dry it.
The best results are obtained with a cone-shaped brush, so it is rational to work with a new brush on irresponsible operations on a rough surface (priming), and then clean and apply for the covering layers.
Before starting work, the brush is "developed" - it is dipped in a coloring compound, squeezed against the wall, turned, etc. until the bun of hair is evenly moistened half the length. While working, the brush is dipped shallowly, tapping on the edge of the working container to evenly distribute the paint.
The paint and varnish material is applied in a thick layer and then shaded with a brush. It is more convenient to paint large surfaces in parts, producing the final shading in all areas in the same direction to make the boundaries of adjacent areas invisible. It is necessary to overlap a layer of paint and varnish material before the "raw edge" of the previous surface area begins to dry, otherwise the layer thickens at the border of the areas and after drying may wrinkle or will differ in color from the rest of the surface.
This technology is suitable for most colorant compositions, but can be partially changed in some cases. So, paints and varnishes for intermediate layers quickly lose their fluidity, especially at elevated temperatures, therefore, they should be applied skillfully and quickly and overlapped "raw" edges. In conclusion, it is necessary to hatch enamels, oil and other similar compounds from the bottom up to reduce paint swelling. When painting wood, the finishing touches are made along the grain, when painting ceilings - towards the light.
Brush painting is used mainly for slowly drying formulations.
It is much more difficult to brush on fast drying materials with active volatile solvents, as the underlying layers dissolve during application of repeated coats or when blending and the coating will be discontinuous and uneven. If necessary, the first layer should be applied only in one direction without shading, and after drying - the second in the other direction.
At the end of the work, the paint and varnish material is wrung out from the brush with a spatula or scraper, the brush is wiped off, washed in a solvent and dried by rotating in air.
The appearance of fungi and insects on the brush should be avoided, so it should be stored dry, wrapped in oiled paper or cellophane.
Brushes made of squirrel, badger and ferret hair are washed from the paint with warm water and soap.
The most effective hand tools for the application of most coloring compounds, especially water-borne and water-borne, are paint rollers (Fig. 36) of various designs. The essence of the method of coloring them is that the paint and varnish material pre-evenly fills the pores of the foam sheathing or the space between the hair of the sheared sheepskin, and when rolling over the surface of the product transfers the coloring composition to it and partially shades it.
Figure: 36. Rolling device with a set of rollers:
1 - knurling roller, 2, 6 - clamping screws, 3 - feed roller, 4 - axle, 5 - split bracket, 7 - handle
This method is more productive than the brush method, but it has a limitation, since it can only be applied to flat surfaces, although a number of organizations have developed special shaped rollers for painting pipes, heating radiators, etc.
When painting flat surfaces, the roller is moved up and down (walls, doors, etc.) or back and forth (ceilings, floors) until the paint on the roller is used up. At the same time, the painter moves along the front of the work, and then back and shades the painted surface with a dry roller. The roller is filled with paint, partially immersing it in the paint bath, and rolled over the overhead mesh to evenly distribute it and drain excess paint back into the bath. Designs are available with forced ink flow directly into the roller housing or through an intermediate roller.
When knurling patterns or stencils, a type of paint roller with replaceable rubber nozzles is used.
The length of the roller may vary depending on the purpose.
We propose to consider professional tools and devices that are still rare in the post-Soviet space, which make it possible to simplify painting work. In this article, we'll talk about putty machines, mechanical application systems, and construction stilts.
Painting work is one of the most time consuming and "dirty" jobs. Unfortunately, they do not lend themselves well to mechanization, and it is not always possible for helpers to be allowed into even the most seemingly simple operations. The skill of a specialist here is determined by persistent motor skills. But foreign colleagues still managed to optimize the surface finish. For this purpose, special tools and devices were developed, the price of which "bites", but they are more than compensated if you are engaged in painting professionally.
Putty machines
We will talk about stations for applying putties, but note that many of these machines are quite versatile and capable of interacting with several types of building compounds. They can:
- paint;
- primed;
- plastering;
- apply waterproofing and fire retardants;
- pouring thin screeds and floor leveling materials, etc.
In this case, the "additional abilities" of the station in different models are presented in their own way. There are no devices that do everything equally well.
The main task of spraying equipment, which is positioned by the manufacturer as a putty, is to help the painter with viscous and heavy mixtures.
The putty machines are based on airless spray technology. There is no usual compressor here, and the mixtures are pumped using a pump. The material is fed to the gun under high pressure, and spraying is carried out due to a sharp drop in pressure in the nozzle area. Airless technology allows you to work with heavy and coarse-grained mixtures (grain with a diameter of up to 4-5 mm) with a high degree of transfer (low material loss).
Note that the pump drive can be of several types:
- pneumatic
- electric
- gasoline (ICE)
Electric puttying machines are the lightest and most compact, they are most often used in civil engineering.
What are the advantages of such units for painters? Let's name only the key ones.
- The productivity of painting works is increased by about three times (profitability in plastering operations, on facades, etc. - even more).
- No helpers are needed.
- With standard ceiling heights (the rods allow reaching up to 3 meters or more from the floor), work can be done without the use of scaffolding and scaffolding.
- There is no significant overspending of putties from the fall of the mass on the floor, as with manual application.
- The fatigue of the staff is significantly reduced.
- The quality of work is improving.
When choosing an apparatus for puttying, you need to figure out in advance: what materials will be the main ones, on which objects the machines will be used, whether you plan to develop. To give preference to a specific model, you have to understand the technical and operational characteristics.
Maximum productivity
Do not pay attention to the pressure and speed of movement of some nodes. Here the main indicator is liters per minute, it just determines the capabilities of the station and relates it to a specific class. Apparatuses for 3-4 l / min are considered average for one operator. There are powerful stations that allow you to connect several pistols at once. Sometimes the device is designed for one pistol with a large nozzle, but it makes it possible to connect two if the nozzles are of a smaller diameter.
Performance can be changed in several steps or in a smooth way. Obviously, the larger the range of adjustments, and the more accurate they are, the more versatile the machine will be.
Some models with their electronics control pressure parameters and automatically control the motor. For manufacturers, the rule of good form is the use of a display that displays all useful information (pressure, flow rate, performance).
The operating voltage of a plastering machine usually depends on the power of the motor. Naturally, the best-selling units are 220 V units, which can be powered from a regular household outlet. More powerful stations are connected to three phases. But there are also universal plastering machines "220/380".
High engine power always means more possibilities. For example, to work at a sufficient distance from the station or more viscous mixtures. The average figure can be considered 1.5-2 kW.
The range is important on large objects and especially on facades. Here it is not always possible to focus on the length of the high-pressure hoses that come with the kit. The main thing is passport data. Please note that the working distance in height is always an order of magnitude less than the horizontal one.
The material with which the putty station works
Some materials for a particular machine are suitable immediately, while others need to be upgraded: use larger hoses, connect a compressor, change the gun. It is very important what fraction of the grain can be sprayed by the installation, what formulations by the type of binding agent are applicable. Some puttying machines only work with ready-made putties, produced in buckets or plastic bags. And other systems have a hopper, after connecting to the water supply, they themselves knead dry building mixtures and continuously supply the finished mass.
Comparative table of filling stations:
TapeTech mechanical puttying tools
TapeTech has become an innovator in its business and an undisputed leader. The puttying tools of this brand are integrated into a system and complement each other. They are intended for the mechanization of painting, primarily focused on finishing surfaces sheathed with plasterboard or gypsum fiber.
These devices do not allow you to completely exclude some operations, as a rule, when filling, you will need to apply the same 3 layers, and each dry. But time and effort can be saved, therefore, you can earn more. Some work is so simplified that it can be entrusted to an assistant. It is important that all tools either have a longitudinal configuration or lengthen, therefore it is possible to work without a scaffold in rooms with a ceiling height of up to 3 meters.
"Bazooka" is a hit of the company. It is a device in the form of a rather thick aluminum tube (hence the name). It is intended for filling joints of sheet sheathing. The main feature of this tool is that in one pass along the working area, a filler substrate is simultaneously applied, and the paper connecting tape is rolled / pressed / cut. Interestingly, the device can be used for sealing not only vertical wall joints, but also for horizontal work and on the ceiling. And also "Bazooka" can be used to reinforce corners.
To finish the planes, the designers have come up with nozzle boxes that allow you to apply a thin-layer strip of putty in one motion. The design of the device is quite simple: a ready-made or previously prepared putty is loaded into the box, when it passes through the slot, it is applied to the base and immediately picked up with a spatula blade. Material feeding is carried out due to the fact that the operator presses on the rollers during the passage. Depending on the purpose, the width of the box is selected: to cover the tape in the seams, use a nozzle with a width of 175 mm, for the next leveling and finishing layers, take boxes of 250-300 mm.
Sealing of self-tapping screws recessed on the plane of the drywall is done with another nozzle. If each groove is usually coated, then a box nozzle 50 or 75 mm wide is carried out along the entire line of fasteners, the putty remains only on the caps.
To roll the tape at the inner corners, the developers suggest using a special roller. This nozzle will press the paper into the putty when guiding and form an even cut of the corner.
A corner finisher is used to simultaneously remove excess weight and apply a second layer. It is installed on the articulated handle and after the roller is led along the inner corner. Outside corners for finishing are processed with ordinary spatulas or box nozzles. Finishing the corners is done with an applicator in tandem with a finisher. They can work together with the MadRunner device, which contains a certain amount of putty and feeds it into the nozzle with a gas spring.
A TapeTech mechanical filler system would be incomplete without a filler pump, nozzle holder handles (860 to 2500 mm), and an assortment of adapters and adapters. A metal case is offered as a separate item.
Note that there are other manufacturers of similar tools. In view of the exoticism, the estimated cost of technically complex "bazookas" in Russia can reach up to 100,000 rubles (abroad they cost about 1000-1200 USD), other accessories, of course, are much cheaper.
Finisher Stilts
These devices have long been used in the West. With their help, builders manage to minimize work on scaffolds and ladders. Stilts have proven themselves especially well if you need to move a lot, for example, when wrapping sheets of gypsum board on the ceiling, when laying communications, when filling high walls and ceilings. The work of a painter generally involves a constant change of workplace so that the layers can dry out.
DURA-STILTS
These products are truly high-tech. Only high-quality materials are used here (mainly: aluminum, magnesium and steel), the design is thought out to the smallest detail. There are always convenient anchorages for the lower leg, the supporting frame is supplemented with springs or pneumatics for stability, the height is adjustable at intervals of 50 mm, the foot plate is adjusted to different sizes, fixation is carried out with straps or Velcro. The support heel is rubberized, it can be movable and also with springs. It can be of a complex shape, volumetric or even divided into two parts (it is believed that this increases stability).
There are 3 main standard sizes of stilts for the average builder, they differ in height:
- 38-60 cm
- 46-76 cm
- 61-102 cm
As you can see, there is a decent margin for height adjustment so that the working area is always at arm's length. Each of these sizes is recommended to be selected for rooms with a ceiling height of 2.6 to 3.2 meters.
Another point that is important when choosing is the permissible weight of the user. It is clear that it is impossible to overload the devices.
To make working with stilts convenient, it is recommended to have a table on site where the tool will be laid out and ready-made mixtures will be kept. This is not so important if you use different holders for painting nozzles - reaching the container on the floor is not a problem. Interestingly, some countries require that the team working on stilts have at least one person “on foot”.
Finisher stilts of the "quality China" type (up to 60 cm) cost about 6,000-7,000 rubles a couple. But for similar samples from Europe or the United States, they ask us up to 20,000 rubles.
Mechanization of painting work is gradually taking place at domestic construction sites. Due to the still high prices, professional tools, stations and accessories are purchased only by large firms. On large volumes, they significantly increase the profitability of finishing work and easily replenish their expenses. It is only a matter of time before these innovations become cheaper and appear in regular “teams”.
The final stage of finishing work is the application of a decorative and protective layer. To quickly and efficiently cover the surface to be treated with primer, varnish, enamel or paint, you will need an auxiliary tool - brushes, rollers, and when processing large surfaces and spray guns.
The most common are brushes. Their choice is very diverse. In the photo below you can see the richness of the assortment of this type of painting tools.
Types of brushes
Brushes differ in shape, length and bristle material, geometric dimensions (handle length, brush width). Depending on the purpose of the brush, their names also differ:
Radiator Brush
A tool for painting pipes and radiators in places where it is difficult to crawl with a flat brush. The design feature is a long handle and a working part bent at different angles. The width of the brush is selected so as to complete the work as quickly as possible, having access to all hard-to-reach areas of the painted surface.
The bristles for such brushes come with a small, not more than 30% addition of synthetics; they are attached to the handle with a metal clip or with glue. Allows you to work with alkyd, acrylic and nitro enamels without much shedding of the brush. Washing the bristles after work is carried out, respectively, with white spirit, water or acetone, depending on the composition of the enamel.
Maklovitsa
Designed for large surfaces - walls, ceilings, floors. She is given a primer, impregnation, water-based paint. Also used for whitewashing. Convenient when applying wallpaper glue.
The peculiarity of the maklovitsa is that after coating, you can not level liquid compositions with a dry brush, since it gives a very uniform application.
Its bristles well absorb thick and viscous compounds. Manufacturers of painting tools make bristles for bristles from both natural (pig and horse hair) and synthetic materials.
Raklya
It looks like a bakeware with the difference that it has a large internal space that serves as a kind of reservoir for the material. Allows you to quickly and efficiently carry out the same types of work as maklovitsa. Both natural and artificial bristles are used on the squeegee.
Round brush
Usually on a long handle with a cylinder-shaped mount that holds the bristles. This painting tool is chosen when painting windows, baseboards, platbands, paneled doors and objects that have any fancy shape.
A large round brush is convenient for whitewashing walls and ceilings. Natural, artificial and mixed bristles are produced for it.
Flat brush
Designed to achieve a smooth finish, used on topcoats. Suitable for painting all surfaces, taking into account the fact that for hard-to-reach places you will need a narrower brush.
- water after working with acrylic, water-dispersed compositions;
- kerosene or white spirit - after oil, alkyd varnishes and enamels;
- acetone or solvent 646 - after nitro varnishes and enamels.
If you don't wash the brush, you won't be able to reuse it - it's easier to throw it away.
Types of rollers
Along with brushes, rollers are used in manual painting work. They are a cylinder made of wood or plastic, with a full-length hole, to which bushings are installed on the ends, and equipped with an axis with a handle. A nozzle is put on the roller. Are divided into:
Polyester, for water-dispersion paints for walls and ceilings. They are characterized by increased wear resistance.
Foam, used for wallpapering. They are not suitable for alkyd and nitro enamels, since the solvent will eat the foam rubber.
Polyamide - universal, suitable for dispersion and solvent-based paints. They have good absorption and release properties. They are easy to clean, do not need special care, and are chemically resistant. Due to the length of the pile, they are suitable for uneven surfaces with pits and bumps.
With fur attachment, they are used for oil paints, enamels and varnishes.
Velor - to give a special smoothness to the processed surface. The bristles on such rollers are very short, suitable for processing even, smooth surfaces.
Structural - they are used for painting with structural paints and plasters, give a textured coating to the treated surface.
The listed catalog of rollers is far from complete - there are specialized painting tools, for example, rubber and plastic pressure rollers, needle rollers for removing wallpaper, paneled rollers, as well as for painting corners.
The above painting tools are not suitable for painting a car - in such cases, a spray gun or a spray gun is used, which is connected with a hose to a compressor that produces uniform pressure. A room with exhaust ventilation, isolated from dust access, as well as a special drying chamber is also required.
Car varnishes and enamels are dried in such chambers at high temperatures. Without special skill and many years of practice, such work will not work well - you cannot avoid drips of varnish or car enamel. Therefore, you should entrust it to professionals.
Photo of painting tools
