The fruits of watermelon are known and loved by everyone, they remind many of the "taste of summer", so some gardeners try to grow this crop in their summer cottage. The watermelon plant is an annual and belongs to the gourd family, the genus Watermelon. Africa is considered the birthplace of this famous culture. The first mention of the fruits of this plant are found in the annals of the ancient Egyptians and Romans. Various sweets were prepared from it, including honey drinks. In addition, watermelons, given their diuretic properties, were also used for medical purposes for the natural cleansing of the body. Today, this crop is grown on other continents. The plant thrives best in warm climates with long summers and short winters. Next, we will tell you more about how to properly plant watermelons in their summer cottage.
The characteristics of culture are as follows:
Reproduction of watermelon
Cultivation is carried out in several ways:
Planting watermelon seedsLet us consider in more detail how watermelon is planted with seeds. If the crop is planned to be grown in regions with a warm climate, then the planting material without prior preparation can be immersed immediately in the soil. The procedure for planting watermelon seeds is as follows:
If planting is carried out in regions with a cold climate, then it is better to wait until the end of May or the beginning of June for sowing seeds. How to plant watermelons seedling method
The procedure for planting watermelon in seedlings is as follows:
Watermelon: planting scheme in open ground
The procedure for planting watermelons in open ground:
Planting a watermelon in a greenhouse
The order of planting watermelons in the greenhouse is as follows:
watermelon care
The procedure for caring for a watermelon is as follows:
Diseases and pests of watermelonTypes of diseases and pests
Watermelon, in principle, is considered a rather unpretentious plant, and with proper soil and planting material treatment, it is practically not susceptible to diseases. However, if errors were made during sowing and care, problems can arise. Most often melons in general, and watermelon in particular, suffer from the following diseases:
In addition to diseases, watermelon can be harmed by insects. Basically, problems are caused by various types of aphids (especially gourds), wireworms, scoops. Let's talk in more detail:
The fight against pests and diseases of watermelons is carried out by spraying plants and planting material with various medicinal preparations. To prevent diseases, various fungicides are used:
Each of the drugs is aimed at treating a specific disease, so it is better to carefully read the instructions before use. In addition to treating diseases, you can focus on their prevention:
To control pests, various methods are used, which depend on the type of insects:
Varieties of watermelons
Currently, there are a large number of varieties of this berry. Culture is divided into two types:
All cultivars of watermelon are divided into several groups:
The choice of one or another group depends on the landing zone and on climatic conditions. Early maturing (early) species include the following varieties:
Mid-season varieties:
The group of late types of watermelon is represented by the following varieties:
The selection process does not stand still, and varieties with yellow flesh that have a lemon taste, as well as black-skinned hybrids, are now bred. Watermelons are very popular, the pulp of which does not contain seeds. How to plant a watermelon: video |
Often, gardeners plant watermelons in their summer cottages in order to enjoy their juicy fruits in the summer. However, not everyone manages to get a high-quality harvest, since special knowledge is needed to grow gourds. Therefore, it is necessary to familiarize yourself in advance with how watermelons are grown.
Watermelons are considered heat-loving plants that have a long growing season. It is recommended to familiarize yourself with the technology of growing this crop in areas that differ in climatic features. Residents of southern regions with a warm climate can plant gourds immediately in open ground. Due to the high temperature, bushes and fruits will grow rapidly. When growing a plant in warm regions, it is much easier to get a good harvest.
In the northern regions, the air temperature is much lower, so watermelons ripen worse. Due to the harsh climate, many gardeners fail to achieve high yields.
When growing gourds in such regions, certain rules are followed:
- for planting use only varieties with early ripening;
- in order to create optimal conditions for the germination of seedlings, the seed must be planted in greenhouses or under film shelters;
- planting is carried out by seedling method;
- to improve the growth of the root system, all seedlings are watered between rows;
- to obtain medium-sized fruits, no more than six ripe berries are left on each bush, and two fruits are left to collect the largest crop.
Selection and preparation of watermelon seeds for sowing
Before you start sowing watermelons at home, you need to do the selection and preliminary preparation of the seed.
Choice
It is recommended to pre-select seeds that will be planted in the future. When selecting, carefully inspect each seed to look for any signs of damage. Damaged seeds are immediately thrown away, as they are unsuitable for planting.
Also, when choosing the highest quality seed, pay attention to its variety. Experienced gardeners advise planting hybrid varieties, as they are resistant to weather changes and common diseases.
Training
To obtain strong and healthy seedlings, you will have to do the preliminary preparation of seeds in advance, which consists of several activities:
- Disinfection. Before sowing, all seeds will have to be disinfected so that they are not exposed to diseases in the future. During disinfection, all seeds are soaked in manganese liquid for 25-30 minutes. Then they are laid out on a towel and dried thoroughly.
- Warming up Gardeners strongly recommend heating watermelon seeds, as this contributes to their germination. The procedure is carried out very carefully so as not to accidentally overheat the seeds. To warm up, all planting material is lowered for half an hour into a container with water heated to 45 degrees.
- Scarification. When carrying out such a procedure, the shell of the seed of watermelons is carefully pierced. This speeds up the process of seed germination several times. It is necessary to engage in scarification 2-3 weeks before planting.
Choosing a place to land
In order to grow a high-quality crop in open ground, it is necessary to select the most suitable site for watermelons in advance. When choosing a place in the garden, pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. For gourds and gourds, sandy and sandy loamy soils are ideal, which are rich in nutrients. The level of illumination of the site is also taken into account, since due to the lack of light, the yield may deteriorate. Therefore, experts do not recommend planting seeds or seedlings in shaded areas, under trees or fences.
When choosing a place for planting watermelons in a summer cottage, one should take into account the compatibility of this crop with other plants.
Watermelon seedlings grow well in gardens where black radish has been grown for a long time. This vegetable saturates the soil with phytoncides, which protect crops from spider mites and other pests. Gardeners also recommend planting gourds near tomatoes and parsley, as they drive away moths and sawflies.
However, there are several plants with which watermelons are incompatible. You should not plant them after peppers, potatoes, strawberries and eggplants, as these vegetables suck out many of the nutrients from the soil that watermelon plants need.
Preparing and fertilizing the soil
Having chosen a site for planting a plant, they begin the preliminary preparation and fertilization of the soil in which watermelon seedlings will be grown. Chernozem should be loose and contain nutrients that will accelerate the growth of seedlings. Soil preparation technology consists of several successive stages.
- Determination of the level of looseness of the soil and its acidity. If the land on the site has an increased level of acidity, you will have to water it with chalk or lime mortar. Heavy soils are pre-fed with vermicompost to increase friability.
- Adding mineral supplements to increase yields. In the first few weeks after planting watermelons, mineral fertilizers are added to the soil, which are dominated by nitrogen. This component activates the growth of seedlings, due to which fruits are tied on the bushes earlier. Also, the site is fed with phosphorus-containing dressings, which increase the resistance of seedlings to temperature changes.
- Introduction of organic matter. To saturate the soil with useful microelements, it is necessary to fertilize it with organic top dressing. It is recommended to evenly distribute bird droppings with humus over the site, then loosen the ground and pour it with warm water. To improve the yield of watermelons, you can moisten the soil with herbal infusion mixed with wood ash.
Growing seedlings
When using the seedling planting method, gardeners have to grow seedlings, which will be transplanted into the garden in the future. It is recommended to familiarize yourself in advance with the features of planting seeds and transplanting grown seedlings to a permanent place.
Planting watermelon seeds
Sowing seeds is carried out when they have sprouted a little and white sprouts have appeared on their surface. When carrying out planting work, all seed material is planted in pots with soil mixture. About 2-4 seeds are sown in each container, so that in the future you can get rid of weak seedlings and leave only the most healthy seedlings. Seeds are sown to a depth of 3-5 centimeters.
When all watermelon seeds have been planted in pots, they are covered with plastic wrap and transferred to a well-lit room.
In the first 5-7 days, pots with planted watermelons should be in a room with a temperature of at least 23 degrees. After the appearance of the first sprouts, the film is removed from the pots, and containers with seedlings are transferred to a room with a temperature of 15-17 degrees.
Seedling transplant
Watermelon seedlings should be grown in pots until the first three leaves appear on the seedlings. After this, the seedlings must be transplanted to a permanent place. To do this, rows are marked along the entire site, on which holes are made for further planting. The depth of each hole should be about 8-10 centimeters so that the roots can be completely placed underground.
Each hole is watered with warm water, after which the seedlings are carefully planted in the ground. Then the holes are covered with soil and re-moistened with water.
Shaping and pinching
Experienced gardeners recommend regularly pinching gourds. This procedure is carried out to improve the yield and accelerate the development of watermelon berries. Most often, pruning of lashes is carried out when growing plants in open ground, since in greenhouse conditions it is not necessary to form bushes. In order to properly form seedlings, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of removing extra stepchildren.
There are three main methods of pinching, which are most often used by gardeners:
- Pasynkovanie lateral shoots. This method is considered universal, as it is suitable for any variety of gourds. During the procedure, 1-2 shoots are left on the main stem. At the same time, on all lateral stems, the ovaries are completely removed.
- Trimming the side stems. Using this method of pinching plants, you will have to completely remove the shoots. Only a few lashes are left on the main stem, and everything else is cut off.
- Formation in several stems. This is the most common way in which you do not need to completely cut off the shoots. On the bushes leave 2-4 lateral lashes. At the same time, each of them should have 2-3 ovaries. If there are more of them, then all the extra fruits that have set are removed.
Rules for feeding and caring for the plant
It is recommended to properly care for gourds, since without care it will not be possible to get a quality crop. The quality of the fruits directly depends on the application of fertilizing to the soil at all stages of growing watermelons.
When sowing
Before planting seed, be sure to fertilize the soil. To do this, the earth is mixed with a liquid that is prepared from humus. Then the site is treated with wood ash and bone meal, which increases the permeability of oxygen in the soil.
When landing in open ground
Some people prefer to grow watermelon bushes in the open field, so they immediately plant the seeds in the garden. Before that, the land on the site is mixed with green manure plants, which are considered the best top dressing to strengthen the roots.
When flowering
When pollination and flowering of bushes begins, it is recommended to add more fertilizing with potassium to the ground. This substance contributes to the appearance of new flowers on seedlings, due to which the yield increases significantly. Gardeners advise once a month to spray watermelons with Kelik and Nutrivant.
At the beginning of fruiting
At the initial stage of fruiting, it is necessary to take seriously the feeding of each bush, since due to the lack of nutrients in the soil, the yield is deteriorating. Often, few berries are tied on the bushes due to a lack of boron.
Therefore, to improve the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits, it is necessary to periodically spray the area with Megafol and Boroplus.
Nutrition for the fetus
The correct fertilization scheme for watermelon seedlings contributes to the ripening of berries. To make the fruits more watery and tasty, the plants are regularly sprayed with Uniflor and Terraflex.
How often to water
Before you start growing melons, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of their irrigation. In the first weeks after germination, the plant needs intensive watering, as its root system is weakened. With a lack of moisture, seedlings grow poorly and gradually fade. Also, more often it will be necessary to moisten the soil during the formation of flowers and the setting of the first fruits. During such periods, seedlings are watered at least four times a week.
Experts advise to moisten the soil in the afternoon, when the sun begins to set. In the daytime, it is not worth moistening the soil, because due to the high temperature and sunlight, moisture will evaporate faster. For irrigation use settled water at room temperature. Watering the bushes with too cold liquid is contraindicated, as this can lead to rotting of the root system and further death of watermelons.
Irrigation of gourds ceases to be engaged after the full ripening of the fruits.
Harvest and storage
If the agricultural technique for growing watermelons has been fully observed, a ripe crop can be harvested 35-50 days after planting. However, sometimes watermelon berries ripen prematurely. To make sure that the fruits are ripe, inspect the color of their pulp and seeds. The seeds should be dark brown and the flesh should be pink with a reddish tinge. The peel of ripe watermelons should be hard and rough.
The harvested crop is best stored on high racks with shelves, which are located at a distance of 55-65 centimeters from each other. Each shelf should be covered with a thin layer of peat or straw. Such a coating will increase the shelf life of the crop. During storage, watermelons are carefully inspected every month. All rotten fruits are thrown away so that the rot does not spread to neighboring berries. Monthly treatment of fruits with lime mortar will help protect the crop from rotting.
What diseases and pests gourds are susceptible to: methods of control
Often gourds do not grow well due to pest attacks or the development of diseases:
- Anthracnose. The presence of such a pathology can be determined by the brown spots that appear on the leaves of watermelons. To get rid of the symptoms of anthracnose, all infected bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid and Kuprozan solution.
- Bacteriosis. The disease damages the leaves, on the surface of which oval white spots appear. Bacteriosis cannot be cured, so infected watermelons are dug up and burned.
- Mite. Due to dry weather, young watermelon seedlings are often attacked by spider mites. Insects feed on the juice from the leaves and stems, which causes the bushes to dry. A mixture made from onions and garlic will help to cope with the pest.
Conclusion
Many summer residents plant their plots with watermelon bushes. To properly grow them, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of planting gourds and caring for them.
Watermelon comes from the deserts of southern Africa, which is why it is highly resistant to heat, dry air, and poor soils. Of all the gourds, it is the least whimsical to the quality of the soil. On the contrary, it works best on sandy loamy steppe chernozems, light soils with good water permeability. But its merits are dictated by growing conditions: a lot of sun, light soil, dry air, soil moisture during the period of growth of lashes, flowering, formation of ovaries.
Agricultural technology
The humidity of the environment is perhaps the most difficult thing for melon growers to overcome in order to grow good quality fruits.
Video about growing watermelon
You can hide from the cold, prevent excessive dryness of the earth by proper watering. But if you live in a wet climate, then you will have to work hard to grow a good striped fruit. Not without a greenhouse. Think in advance how you will protect the crop from crows. Get also early and tasty varieties, preferably local selection. Now let's look at everything in more detail to understand how to grow watermelons in the country.
Take care of the quality of the soil in advance, in the fall of the year preceding planting. Especially if your future melon is located where predominantly heavy soils prevail: loam or peat marshy soils. It is necessary to dig the ground well, while simultaneously removing the roots of weeds. Best of all, even for two bayonets of a shovel. We mix heavy soil with sand at the rate of two buckets per square meter. Thus, we bring the lightness, water permeability of the soil in accordance with the requirements of the agricultural technology of melons. It is advisable to take gray river sand, red building sand contains a lot of iron, which can overly oxidize the earth.
Pictured is a watermelon
Speaking of acidity, growing watermelons works best on a substrate with a neutral acidity. You can find out what soil acidity you have either by measuring it with a Ph-indicator or Ph-meter, or by plants growing in your garden plot. The first case, of course, gives more accurate results. To do this, purchase an indicator in a pharmacy or a chemical store (a universal indicator is best). Or buy a Ph-meter there. Take the soil from the place of laying the future melon. Dilute it with water, look at the color of the indicator or the readings of the device.
Indicator plants will roughly tell you about the condition of the soil in your area. So, for example, chamomile, wheatgrass, bindweed, cornflowers and clover prefer to grow on soils with neutral acidity. Horsetails, plantains, mosses will tell us that the environment is too acidic. On the contrary, poppy, mustard testify to the alkaline reaction of the earth.
The acidity of the soil is eliminated by liming - adding a lime solution to the soil, it is obtained by mixing lime for whitewashing with water. Alkaline lead to a neutral indicator by the introduction of acidifiers: peat, needles, softwood sawdust. Sowing legumes well restores the normal acidity of the soil.
Photo of a watermelon in the garden
We also remember that it is highly undesirable to plant watermelons on the site of the former growth of cucumbers, other melons: pumpkins or melons. Such precautions are associated with the threat of introducing diseases: fusarium (colloquially wilting leaves), peronosporosis (downy mildew). Also, you can not plant it after nightshade. Crop rotation for these crops should reach 5-6 years. The optimal predecessor would be corn, sunflower, legumes: beans, peas, lupins. Also, watermelon fruits are well poured when sown after perennial cereal crops.
We fertilize the earth at the same time when they dug up, in the fall. Along with deep mixing of the soil layers, we add a standard set of macronutrients: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium. Superphosphates are added in the amount of thirty grams per square meter. Potassium sulfate is applied at a concentration of twenty grams per meter. Nitrogen fertilizers are added in extremely small doses in autumn.
It is better to make them in the spring and preferably along with organic top dressing. Otherwise, you run the risk of dramatically increasing the nitrate content of your fruits. The presence of magnesium in the soil contributes to high yields. We also introduce microelements together with autumn digging. It is best to use complex liquid mineral supplements containing molybdenum, iron, selenium, manganese immediately necessary for melons.
Pay attention to organic fertilizers, especially those containing humic acids or effective microorganisms. The colonization of the soil with beneficial microflora will lead to a sharp jump in the absorption of mineral fertilizers that you introduce further by plants. This will significantly affect the yield of future melons.
The biggest threat to the northern watermelon industry is late spring frosts. There are several ways to avoid this.
First, you can grow seedlings. The advantage of this method is the savings in time. when the threat of frost has passed, we are already planting young seedlings that have formed several leaves. The downside is that watermelons have a very delicate root system. they really don't like transplants. It is ideal to grow them in peat pots, then the plant is planted without removing it from the pot, which gradually dissolves with soil, giving additional top dressing.
But even with this type of planting, for some time the seedlings do not grow, being under stress, yielding to the sown ones. In addition, planted watermelons are more tender, painful compared to ground watermelons, and more susceptible to various fungal summer misfortunes.
watermelon photography
Secondly, spring sowing under cover. It can be both a film greenhouse and a full-fledged greenhouse. The greenhouse is most often used only for frost protection. Upon reaching the watermelon lashes of great length, in the summer the shelter is removed. How to grow watermelon in a greenhouse? To save space, the lashes are allowed vertically. Plants cling to vertical supports with tendrils.
It is important to keep greenhouses with flowering plants open during the day to provide access for insects. When the fruits reach the size of an orange, they need to be laid in nets and hung from transverse greenhouse supports. Greenhouses are suitable where there is a humid cloudy summer. The microclimate created inside from a combination of dry air with regular watering will be ideal for minke whales.
If you are worried about spring frosts. And the summer promises to be hot and relatively dry, so there is no reason to build a greenhouse. It is enough to get by with temporary greenhouse shelters.
And you can combine these two methods. Sow directly into the ground and accelerate maturation, bypassing the threat of spring frosts. This is the so-called Korean ridge. We take a wide, very dense transparent film. We make small holes, no more than five centimeters in diameter. Perforation step - half a meter in a row. Leave two meters between rows. We prepare the ground. It is advisable to clean it well from the roots of weeds. Well fertilize, spill. At a distance of two meters from each other, we make small earthen ramparts, about a third of a meter high.
Pictured is a watermelon
To make summer care even easier for ourselves, we bury the irrigation system in the shafts. This can be a simple perforated hose or special drip tapes designed to continuously receive moisture for each bush.
We lay the film so that the rows with holes lie along the crests of the earthen ramparts. We dig around the edges. We plant two pre-soaked seeds in the holes. We close each hole with a glass jar with the neck down, pressing it slightly into the soil. It will create greenhouse conditions for seed germination. You can also use large plastic bottles with the neck cut off, bottom up. Under the film, the soil will quickly warm up in the spring, without cooling down at night and without losing moisture. Earth shafts provide maximum heating under the film.
The seeds will quickly hatch, from the two we remove the weaker sprout. Soon they will be cramped under the can cover. It is best to time planting dates so that they are one month ahead of the average date of the last spring frost in your area. Then, as soon as the seedling forms a sufficient green mass, it is already possible to remove the can cover without fear of frostbite on the leaves. Most often this is the last decade of April.
Closer to June, not only watermelons begin to grow intensively, but also weeds that remain under the film. To avoid breaking through the film and disturbing the microclimate of the soil, we cover all the aisles with a large layer of mulch: needles, sawdust, straw. Without sunlight, weeds will wither away. And the soil will normally warm up under a large layer of mulching material.
We produce all dressings in liquid form, pouring everything through the holes where our watermelon lashes grow from. By organizing the irrigation system in the spring, we deprive ourselves of even this need, everything is delivered immediately to the roots. Sometimes you can do without a ridge, level the soil. Then care becomes even easier, although spring warming will be less.
Care
Formation is important, especially given the short northern summer. After the formation of the sixth sheet, we pinch the lash. This stimulates flowering. We feed in the spring with an equal amount of phosphate and nitrogen fertilizers. Upon reaching the fruit size of an orange, we exclude nitrogen, increase the proportion of potash fertilizers and trace elements. To enhance the growth of the fruit, we pinch the lash with a few leaves above it.
We protect melons from fungal diseases. Proper watering for these purposes will be enough. That is, pour under the root, do not wet the leaves. It is also desirable to exclude the contact of the lashes with the ground, cover it with mulch. Then the plant will not pick up spores stored on the ground.
We water our melons regularly, plentifully. From the emergence of seedlings, throughout the time that the watermelon grows. When pouring fruits, we reduce watering, otherwise they may crack. We protect the future harvest from birds, especially from crows. Often left unattended, melons can lose their entire crop in just a few minutes. Put scarecrows or cover the fruits from birds. You can bury them in the ground. Can be put away in boxes or other containers. When the leg of our striped berry begins to dry out, this will mean that it is ripe. It can be torn down.
Now a few words about apartment melon growing.
Video about watermelons on the windowsill
- We take a container for planting the size of a bucket.
- We prepare the substrate. Three equal parts of meadow humus, manure humus, sand. We deoxidize with a small amount of lime.
- We water with complex fertilizers: organic and inorganic, containing trace elements.
- We sow three or four seeds. Watering, waiting for the emergence of shoots.
- We leave the strongest sprout.
- A support for the future stem is stuck into the bucket, about a meter.
- When the lash of the plant forms the fifth or sixth leaf, pinch it
- With daylight hours shorter than 12 hours, artificial lighting is used
- We pollinate artificially.
- We leave no more than two fruits on each plant.
- When the fruits reach the size of a chicken egg, we put them in nets and tie them to a support.
- Fertilize and water in the same way as in horticultural cultivation.
Photo of growing watermelon on the balcony
Thanks to artificial lighting, you can grow striped sweets at home at any time, even in summer, even in winter. Homemade watermelons are small, but thin-skinned.
Very often, watermelons in stores and markets have dubious taste, giving customers a lot of disappointment from the dissonance of expectations and reality. And melons do not always meet the requirements of environmental safety, especially if they were purchased at the ruins along the highways, from cars in the yards or in other unauthorized places of trade. Your favorite berry can turn out to be either simply tasteless - watery and fresh, or with a rotten middle or stuffed with nitrates with a characteristic “chemical” tinge in taste and a suspiciously smooth cut. Therefore, many summer residents and gardeners are trying to grow this crop on their site.
In modern melon growing, a variety of methods for breeding watermelons are used. They are cultivated in greenhouses, in-depth bioheated greenhouses, film tunnels and in an open way without the use of protective structures. But it is the berries that have grown "in the wild", and not in shelters, and properly saturated with the energy of the sun, that turn out to be the most delicious, have a sweet, fragrant, melting pulp in your mouth. Let's find out what you need to know about growing watermelon in the open field in order to avoid mistakes and vain work, and which varieties are guaranteed to please with a stable harvest of delicious berries.
Features of the process in different regions
For a long time, the cultivation of watermelons remained the privilege of the southern regions with a hot climate, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, the situation has changed. Scientists have improved many valuable forms of table watermelon, developed early and hybrid varieties adapted to various climatic conditions, among which there are hybrids available for cultivation in any area.
Therefore, the Russian south has ceased to be the only place where it is possible to cultivate watermelons. The geography of growing the largest berry has expanded to the Urals, the northwestern regions - Siberia and Altai, the Moscow region and the regions of the Central Federal District, the Central Black Earth and Volga-Vyatka regions.
If you are going to start growing melons in a short and sometimes changeable summer with a predominance of cloudy days, as in the north of Russia, you should not count on a crop of large watermelons weighing 10-20 kg. The fruits simply do not have enough time for full ripening during the short summer season.
Having managed to form thick, strong lashes with flowering shoots, gourds will stop growing and developing during the autumn decline in temperature. After the transition of the average daily temperature through the mark of 13-15 ° C and the reduction of daylight hours to 12-14 hours, they die.
The success of growing watermelons in conditions very different from those at home, in which heat-loving plants feel comfortable, depends on several factors.
- Knowledge and adherence to the nuances of agricultural technology. Watermelon, like melon, loves warmth. But for seeds to sprout, t 14-16 ° C is enough, while this is not enough for the roots. To activate the growth of the root system, a temperature of at least 23 ° C is needed. And in the phase of bud formation and during flowering, the thermometer should stay at 18-20 ° C even at night.
- The right choice of landing method. Cultivation of gourds in an open way in areas with unstable weather and short summers involves the preparation of warm high beds. Under the protection of greenhouses and tunnels, plants also have time to fully mature, without experiencing stress from exposure to negative temperatures. When using mid-early varieties, it is advisable to resort to the seedling method of growing gourds.
- Competent selection of varieties of watermelon taking into account the climatic features of a particular area and the experience of the farmer.
Choice of variety and location
Today's varietal diversity of popular gourds includes over 200 items. When choosing a variety are guided by several criteria.
Origin
To make it easier to navigate in such a variety of forms, they were systematized into 10 groups in accordance with a geographical feature, highlighting:
- Russian;
- Western European;
- little, middle and East Asian;
- Transcaucasian;
- Far East;
- American;
- Indian;
- afghan group.
In our latitudes, amateur growers are usually engaged in the cultivation of varieties united in the Russian, sometimes in the Central Asian or Transcaucasian group. The advantage of these forms of watermelon is high environmental sustainability, characterized by the ability to withstand the influence of environmental stressors, while maintaining yields.
Many experienced melon growers prefer to deal with imported hybrids, which is quite understandable. Indeed, for many foreign breeders, the priority is to improve the external characteristics and taste of fruits. The main advantages of foreign hybrid varieties are high marketability and resistance to infections. Their minus is the increased requirements for the diet, so you have to take care of them much more carefully than domestic ones.
Therefore, for those who have just begun to master the wisdom of melon growing, it is better to abandon such options in favor of our F1 varieties.
Vegetation time
In areas of the non-chernozem zone with a temperate cool climate, the best productivity is shown by the cultivation of early and ultra-ripening varieties with an early ripening period (up to 80 days).
It is important to remember that there is no point in acquiring large-fruited varieties, because in such conditions they do not have time to ripen.
In regions where summer pleases with a large number of warm sunny days, it is already possible to safely deal with medium or late-ripening varieties or hybrids with a ripening period of 80-95 days.
Cold and drought tolerance
For cultivation in Siberia or the middle lane, it is required that the variety be resistant to negative temperatures and withstand return frosts. Accordingly, when watermelons are cultivated in the Central Chernozem region, especially in its southeastern part, where the climate is drier than in the western one, the ability of the variety to tolerate drought becomes of fundamental importance.
Sugar content
Representatives of early maturing varieties have a higher sugar content compared to varieties of the middle and late vegetation period.
Popular varieties
The following selection presents the most popular varieties of table watermelon for outdoor cultivation.
Among them there are both classic varieties that have repeatedly proven their viability in practice, as well as several new ones that have already managed to earn the trust of melon growers.
- "Siberian". The interest of summer residents in this ultra-early variety is due to resistance to weather disasters, unpretentiousness, excellent immunity and very high taste. Fruits with intense red tender flesh under a thin peel have an unusually sweet taste and can compete with Astrakhan watermelons.
- "Delicacy F1". One of the new high-yielding hybrids of wide elliptical form with medium greenish, dissected leaf blades, thin skin and pulp of rich scarlet color, medium-dense consistency. Pumpkins with narrow stripes, colored much darker than the light green background. Fruits on average weigh 3.5-4 kg. Productivity - up to 5 kg / m2. With poor transportability, the variety has high drought resistance.
- "Sugar Lightning F1". Ultra-early cold-resistant form, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone. Taste qualities are beyond praise and fully correspond to the name of the variety. Fruits with fragrant scarlet pulp will delight you with a sugary-sweet honey taste. The color is uniform, dense green without a characteristic striped pattern. Leaf blades are miniature, strongly dissected. The ripening period is 65 days from germination to the first harvest of fruits.
- Charleston Grey. One of the original varieties with oblong elongated cylindrical fruits of light green uniform color without a striped pattern. Ukrainian breeders were engaged in its breeding. Berries are famous for their wonderful taste of sugary red or pink pulp, very delicate in texture. Due to the light color of the smooth crust, they do not heat up in the heat, so they not only relieve thirst, but also have an excellent tonic effect. The presence of a hard peel allows the fruits to easily endure long-distance transportation. Watermelons of this variety can increase their mass in the range of 13-18 kg. Technical ripeness occurs after 70-95 days from the moment of germination.
- "Delight". Vegetation terms - 85-95 days. Plants of this variety are characterized by the formation of long lashes with strongly dissected leaves and large spherical fruits. Commodity pumpkins weigh an average of 7-9 kg. They are painted a deep green and covered with a pattern of spiked stripes that is even darker than the background. The red fine-grained juicy pulp contains a large amount of solids (11-13%) and natural sugar (9-10.5%). "Vostorg" attracts buyers with its high taste, beautiful shade of crust and versatility of use. The fruits are consumed fresh, salted, canned, squeezed out of them juice and prepare a delicious nardek. The variety is distinguished by high transportability and complex disease resistance.
- "Striped torpedo F1". A popular hybrid variety with a "talking" name. The duration of the growing season is 84-92 days. When grown in open ground, the fruits on average increase their weight by 6 kg, the record figures are 11 kg. Plants form many branched shoots with a long main stem. Berries have a high sugar content - about 7-9%. The variety is characterized by a long return of the crop, the resistance of the bushes to the defeat of Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. The root system of the hybrid withstands high temperatures and low humidity. On rainfed crops, the yield is 17-22 kg/10 m2.
- Melania F1. Dutch hybrid variety with high commercial qualities, excellent taste, resistant to heat and cold. Suitable for growing in areas with any climatic conditions. The fruits are elliptical in shape, with a smooth surface and a pattern of dark green blurred wide stripes. The crust has an average thickness, the pulp of a medium-dense consistency is colored in rich red. Technical ripeness occurs in 80-105 days. The berries tolerate transportation over long distances well and have good keeping quality.
- Bykovsky 22. The variety is characterized by good transportability, drought resistance, high marketability of fruits with excellent taste. Watermelons are intended for fresh consumption. Spherical fruits with a smooth surface have a whitish or greenish color and a pattern of green narrow spiny stripes. The flesh is pink in color, with a granular texture and juicy taste. Ripening terms - 91-104 days. The average weight of marketable fruits is 4.5 kg.
- "Bush 334". A distinctive feature of representatives of a common large-fruited variety is the limited growth of lashes. Compared to watermelons that produce long shoots, bush plants tend to form 4-5 lashes, reaching a length of only 70-80 cm. Such a compact melon plantation saves space in the beds, which is especially appreciated by owners of modest plots. On each lash, only one berry is formed with a strong crust and pink granular flesh of a dense consistency. Commercial fruits weigh 6-8 kg, tolerate long-term transportation well, have high keeping quality (up to 3 months) and resistance to most diseases.
How to choose a place for melon?
The cultivated watermelon inherited from its small wild relatives and the common ancestor of the African melon a love for the bright sun during the daytime and warmth at night. Therefore, it is necessary that the place where it is planned to break the beds is well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.
It is optimal when the landing site is oriented to the south or southeast.
Scattered shrubs or trees with a lush crown should not grow nearby, limiting the access of the sun to plantings. In cloudy weather and lack of sun, the rate of photosynthesis slows down, the fruits accumulate less natural sugar and dry matter.
This melon culture tends to form a powerful root system, consisting of the main root and lateral roots, which, in turn, form numerous roots of higher orders. Ideally, the location of groundwater in the planting area should be as far as possible from the soil surface, which avoids waterlogging of the beds and rotting of the roots.
It is equally important to observe the rules of crop rotation when cultivating watermelon. The best predecessors for it include representatives of the legume, umbrella and cabbage (cruciferous) families. The worst former "owner" of the beds is the closest relative of the pumpkin, which has common pests with watermelon.
It is desirable to allocate a large landing area for melons, so as not to limit the freedom of growth of thin creeping lashes.
Training
Although watermelon is a crop insensitive to the level of soil acidity, however, its best productivity is shown by its cultivation in fertile soils with a high content of easily digestible nutrients. The pH values should vary within 6.5-7 units. It grows well in light, loose sandy soil with high air permeability and rapid heating, or sandy loamy soil containing up to 90% sand.
How to prepare the soil?
The earth needs to be enriched with organic matter. To this end, it will be necessary to carry out autumn tillage by digging, followed by leveling the earth with a rake, after removing the remains of the green mass of the predecessor plant. With the advent of spring, beds are broken up and semi-rotted manure or compost is applied as an organic fertilizer.
Mineral fertilizers are applied on the basis of:
- ammonium sulfate 20-30 g/m2;
- superphosphate - 34-40 g / m2;
- potassium salt - 10-20 g / m2.
When growing under a film cover, the prepared beds are covered with polyethylene or non-woven material.
seed
Compared to other melon crops, watermelon seeds are the most difficult to germinate. Pre-sowing preparation increases the chances of getting friendly and strong seedlings.
It is carried out through several techniques.
- Mechanical calibration of seed according to size. The separation of large seeds from smaller ones and their sowing in separate containers according to the caliber ensures the production of friendly seedlings with equally developed seedlings.
- Sorting seeds according to density. Immersion of the seed material in an aqueous saline solution helps to identify light specimens unsuitable for sowing. Floating seeds are discarded, and seedlings are grown from heavier, sunken seeds.
- Disinfection. For disinfection, the seeds are kept in a weak 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, and then dried naturally. For the same purpose, the seed is heated in the sun for a week or using thermostats or dryers for 3-4 hours, at t up to 60 ° C.
- Soaking and germination. The presence of a thick leathery protective shell in seeds significantly slows down the emergence of sprouts. Therefore, they are wrapped in a piece of dense matter and soaked in a container of water at t 22-25 ° C for 24 hours. After that, the seeds are laid out on a damp cloth, leaving to swell until the roots appear.
- Heat treatment. The seed is heated in a vessel with water t 45-50°C for half an hour. Exposure to elevated temperature accelerates all biochemical processes in the seeds, as a result of which they will germinate much more actively.
- Scarification. This procedure is advisable to carry out when growing melons in the areas of the middle zone. Its essence boils down to damage to the protective shells of seeds on sandpaper for accelerated germination.
How to prepare seedlings?
In the open field, watermelons are cultivated through seedlings or seedless method. At dachas in the Central Black Earth Region, the Krasnodar Territory, the lower reaches of the Volga, seeds can be sown directly into the soil. For non-chernozem regions, an exclusively seedling method of growing gourds is suitable.
- A favorable time for sowing seeds is April-May. It is advisable to prepare potted seedlings 3-4 weeks before planting.
- To prepare a nutritious soil mixture, soddy soil, peat and humus are taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Sandy soil is mixed with 10% mullein.
- The optimal size of seedling pots is 10-12 cm in diameter, which allows the roots to develop freely. Watermelon is contraindicated in damage to the root system. The containers are filled with soil mixture and the seeds are deepened by 3-4 cm.
- Until the sprouts appear, it is important to maintain in the place where the seedlings stand, t 22-25 ° C during the daytime, and make sure that at night the thermometer does not fall below 17 ° C. Otherwise, the seeds may stretch out the hypocotyl knee.
- As soon as sprouts appear, t should be reduced by 4-6 ° C and the seedlings should be left for a couple of days to get used to such conditions. After a week and a half, they must be fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure in a ratio of 1: 10, mixed with superphosphate diluted in water at the rate of 2-3 g of fat per liter.
- When watering seedlings, avoid getting water on the leaves. It is not necessary to pinch the seedlings. Watering is carried out as needed, avoiding excessive waterlogging of the earth.
- Before planting in the soil, seedlings are taught to stay outdoors. To harden young plants, seedling containers are placed in a sufficiently lit, warmed up and reliably protected from the wind place on the site.
The readiness of sprouts for planting in open ground is evidenced by the formation of at least three true leaves.
How to plant?
Seedlings are transplanted into open ground, starting from the last days of May and until the end of the first decade of June. In the holes, it is permissible to plant both one by one and a pair of seedlings. When planting in pairs, the processes are turned in different directions in order to prevent the chaotic interweaving of side shoots in the future. This culture is characterized by the continuous growth of lashes that can stretch 5-7 meters.
The order of transplant work
- Dig two rows of holes, adhering to a checkerboard pattern. The minimum distance between rows is 50 cm, between seats - 1-1.4 m.
- Compost is poured into the pits of 1.5-2 kg each and spilled with water. Consumption rate - 2 liters per seat.
- The sprouts are removed from the seedling container while preserving the earthen clod and placed in holes, deepening them to the cotyledons.
- It remains to sprinkle the ground around the plants with a thin layer of sand in order to prevent the development of the black leg, a dangerous fungal disease that causes rotting of the plantings.
With a seedless method of growing gourds, seeds are sown in the ground warmed up to t 13-14 ° C. Sowing material of large-fruited varieties is deepened by 7-9 cm, and small-fruited varieties - by 5-6 cm.
There are several ways of sowing - in rows, squares, rectangular and square-nested, tape, which explains the variety of planting patterns. Most often, gourds in the garden are sown in rows. In this case, the width between the rows can vary between 1.5-2.7 m, and the distance between the holes in the rows can be from 50 cm to 2 meters, depending on the size of the fruit of a particular variety.
Work order
- Dig the required number of holes and moisten with water.
- The holes are filled with soil mixture: ash + humus + earth in equal parts + nitroammofoska 5 g. The soil mixture consumption rate is 15 g for each seat. They level it with a hoe and water it.
- Seeds are laid, deepening them by 5-8 cm. At least five seeds are placed in one hole, and after a while, when they sprout, one largest seedling is left.
- Crops are sprinkled with a thin layer of humus to avoid the formation of a crust that can damage the delicate sprouts that make their way out of the ground.
- Lightly tamp the soil to protect the seeds from wind and bird dispersal.
How to properly care?
In order to grow strong and healthy watermelons outdoors, you need to provide them with appropriate care at all stages of development from germination to fruit formation.
Unforeseen spring frosts are a fairly common occurrence in areas with a temperate climate, causing a lot of problems for summer residents. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and for the first time build a shelter made of arcs and polyethylene or non-woven material in a garden with young seedlings. When the first peduncles appear, the protection is removed to avoid damage to the plants in the phase of active formation of lashes.
Another option for effective double protection of crops in open ground during frosts in cold climatic zones is the use of multilayer plastic caps. To do this, cut off the lower part of liter PET bottles, and then cover each sprout with them. After that, the caps are closed with PET canisters with a volume of 5-6 liters, having previously cut off their bottom. Under the protection of plastic "matryoshkas", delicate stems are not afraid of cold, wind and aggressive sun, while inside it is light, warm and air circulates freely.
Watermelons are picky about soil moisture. They, like other melons, require watering throughout the entire period of growth and development. The lower threshold of soil moisture for them is 75-80%. To obtain fruits with high palatability at the ripening stage, the frequency of irrigation is reduced to reduce soil moisture by 5-10%.
In areas with sandy or sandy loam soils that have poor water holding capacity, the frequency of watering should be higher at lower water rates. In dachas and gardens with clay or loamy soils, plantings should be watered, on the contrary, less often, but plentifully.
Transplanted sprouts will need to be shaded and used for irrigation with warm water t 21-25 ° C for several days. If the weather is dry and hot, then seedling irrigation should be rare and plentiful. The daily rate of water consumption for young seedlings is 0.2 liters.
The optimal mode of watering adult plants is one or two approaches every week, depending on weather conditions. Until flowering begins, watering should be moderate, while at the fruiting stage, irrigation is already carried out with increased rates. To increase the sugar content of fruits, plantings stop watering at the end of the growing season.
The water temperature must be at least 19-20°C. The use of cold water is unacceptable, as it inhibits the development of plants and makes them vulnerable to black leg. Irrigation is desirable to do in the morning. So the soil has time to warm up before night. In hot weather, plantings are watered in the evening.
For the first time, the beds are loosened at the end of the transplantation of plants into open ground. At the same time, the depth of loosening should not exceed 4-6 cm. Then the ground is loosened after rains and each irrigation until the plants begin to close with each other. As necessary, loosening is combined with weeding the ridges. Weeds are immediately disposed of as they are one of the main sources of infection.
During the season, watermelons will need to be fed three times. A week after planting the seedlings, a nutrient solution is used to fertilize the plants.
To prepare it, dilute in 20 liters of water:
- ammonium sulphate 64-70 g;
- double superphosphate 80-100 g;
- potassium salt 30-36 g.
When lashes begin to actively form on the melon, a second top dressing is performed. During this period, it is good to fertilize the plants with organic matter in combination with mineral fertilizers. For this purpose, an infusion of cow manure is used, for which the rotted mullein is diluted with water in proportions of 1: 10. Superphosphate and potassium salt are added to it at the rate of 2 g and 1 g of fertilizer per liter of infusion. Plants are watered between rows.
The appearance of the first ovaries is a signal for the third feeding.
This time, the dosage of fertilizer per 20 liters of water should be as follows:
- ammonium sulphate 48 g;
- superphosphate 20 g;
- potassium salt 70 g.
Application rate - 2 liters per bush. Instead of watering the holes, you can shed the furrows with a solution, which are carried out in advance, stepping back from the bushes 20-25 cm.
Growing side shoots should be periodically distributed over the garden. To avoid damage to too long branched lashes by the wind, they are tied to supports or sprinkled with moist soil.
When three or four apricot-sized pumpkins are formed on the central lashes, all other ovaries are disposed of by cutting them out with a sharp knife. For the treatment of slices, charcoal powder is used. After that, the tops of the lashes are pinched, followed by the removal of female flowers. 
The latter method is the most popular, as it guarantees almost 100% survival, so it is the best suited for beginner melon growers.
To do this, choose a stock and a scion that have a couple of real leaves. On the axial part of the pumpkin and watermelon shoots, oblique cuts are made ¾ of the thickness of the stems and 0.5-0.6 cm long. The stems are cut so that the watermelon axial part enters from above into the axial part of the pumpkin. To increase the contact area, the stems are notched at an angle of 30°.
Carefully connect the plants with incisions like a "castle". To fix the grafting site, a grafting clip or food foil is used. Seedlings connected to each other are planted in one large container of 0.5-0.7 liters and placed in a well-lit place.
After 4-5 days, the watermelon stem is pinched below the place where the vaccination was made, so that the watermelon begins to receive nutrients from the roots of lagenaria. After another 4-5 days, the watermelon stem and the top of the pumpkin are removed.
You can transplant seedlings into open ground after a week, subject to good weather. When there is no film shelter on the beds, they are transplanted in May.
When do they ripen?
If you grow watermelons in open ground using a seedless method, then the seeds germinate after sowing for 8-10 days. And if you germinate the seeds and grow potted seedlings from them, then the appearance of sprouts can be expected a couple of days earlier. Rapid germination is facilitated by compliance with the temperature, light and humidity conditions in the room where the seedlings are standing.
How long a gourd culture grows in open ground from the formation of flowers and ovaries to the onset of technical ripeness directly depends on which variety of seed was used. In early forms, the duration of the growing season can vary between 65-70 days, in later forms it takes at least three months to fully mature.
August is the time for harvesting early ripening varieties. But watermelons are not harvested en masse during this period. An exception is cases of forced collection of melons due to early frosts.
During the warm season, only the ripest pumpkins are harvested, identifying them according to the following features:
- shiny (not matte) surface of the bark, dense to the touch;
- a dull sound if you knock on the bark and a characteristic crackle when the fruit is squeezed with hands;
- the presence of a dry stem of a brownish color;
- a clearly visible pattern of clear stripes and the presence of a yellow spot in the place where the fruit was in contact with the ground.
Since each of these signs is rather conditional, it is necessary to be guided by their combination. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cutting unripe berries.
Diseases and their treatment
When growing watermelons, most often you have to deal with several diseases.
Anthracnose
The first sign of the disease is the formation of brown or yellow spots on the leaves. If at this stage the fight against anthracnose is not started, then dark-colored “ulcers” will appear on the lashes, after which the plants will begin to die en masse. Bushes are treated with cuprosan or they are surgically treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture as an effective cell poison that destroys harmful fungi. The soil must be weeded. For preventive spraying of bushes, 80% of the wettable powdered contact fungicide "Cineb" is used.
powdery mildew
Infection is indicated by the appearance of whitish spots on the bushes. If measures are not taken in time, then the gradual withering and death of the green parts of plants will begin. Treatment involves the destruction of the affected lashes with fruits and soil treatment with a systemic contact fungicide "Dinocap" ("Karatan LC"). For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur. The frequency of treatments is once a week.
white rot
Predisposing factors for its occurrence are high humidity combined with sudden changes in temperature. Infection by the fungus of the green parts of plants leads to stops in development and a significant deterioration in the taste of the fruit. The onset of the disease can be diagnosed by the presence of a white coating on the lashes and leaf blades. After the destruction of the rotten parts of the plantations, they are treated with copper sulfate. A therapeutic and prophylactic solution for spraying bushes is prepared at the rate of 100-200 g of copper-containing microfertilizer per 20 liters of water.
The formation of watermelons in the open field is shown in the following video.
Thanks to modern technology, growing berries and vegetables is no longer a fantasy. To understand how to grow watermelon at home, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances in advance that will allow you to harvest an ecological and tasty crop after some time.
Not every variety of watermelon can be grown at home. Seeds of delicious watermelon from the market or store are not suitable for this purpose, because this variety is grown in open areas in spring and summer. For the same reasons, the varieties that are grown in summer cottages will not yet be suitable.
But there are hybrids that are resistant to lack of light, early ripening, they do not require special care. The following varieties are considered excellent: Ogonyok, Kaho, Sibiryak, Volgar, Gift of the Sun. They sprout very well, are tenacious, the fruits have a sweet taste.
After the acquisition, planting material must be selected before growing watermelon at home. Small and damaged seeds are excluded immediately. Large seeds are dipped in a glass container containing a solution of table salt. It is done like this: 5 g of salt per 0.1 liter of water. Seeds that have sunk to the bottom must be removed, washed in water, and dried. It is these seeds that are needed for planting.
Then they are soaked in a solution of humate (0.5 g per 1 liter of water). This is done as follows: gauze is wetted, in which the seeds are left for a day. This will increase germination and reduce stress. You can also leave the seeds in gauze moistened with ordinary water until they begin to hatch.
Then the seeds need to be planted in small plastic cups of 4-5 seeds each, the earth should be a little tamped in them.
Watering should be carried out in such a way that the soil is always moist. For seedlings to appear, the temperature must be around 25 ° C. Then shoots will appear after 1 week. If the temperature is below 13 ° C, then seedlings can not be expected.
Cups should be in a well-lit and warm place. Drafts should not be allowed. After 2-3 weeks, 1 seedling should be left in each cup.
watermelon care
As soon as 3 leaves appear, the plants are transferred to containers, the volume of which is from 5 to 15 liters. They should have a mixture of seedling soil and perlite in a ratio of 2: 1. Water the plant often, but not abundantly so that the water does not stagnate. Every 2 weeks the soil must be fertilized. Liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable here. It is necessary to add 1 tsp to 1 liter of water. fertilizers. This solution can only be used for 1 watering.
When 6 leaves grow, pinch the plant over 4 leaves. The plant needs enough light. If there is not enough lighting, then the use of additional LED or energy-saving lamps will be required.
Pollination of the plant and the appearance of fruits
In most cases, watermelons begin to bloom 30-50 days after germination.
Flowers require pollination to produce an ovary.
To do this, you must first find male flowers that have a thin stem. Such flowers will need to be carefully picked, they need to pollinate female flowers by touching the pistils with stamens.
After a certain period of time, the withering of the petals and the increase in the peduncle will be noticeable, which after a while will become a fruit. As the lashes grow, they will need to be pinched to stop their growth.
A few weeks before the full ripening of the fruit, watering should be minimized, stimulating the appearance of sugar in the berry. When the grown fruits are ripe, you can harvest.
How to grow watermelons in the country (video)
About the beneficial properties of watermelon
This berry has a lot of sugar (about 12%). It is quite easily absorbed by the body and, unlike refined sugar, benefits.
Watermelon juice has a diuretic effect, so it is able to flush the kidneys and ureters well. Thanks to him, salts dissolve and are washed out of the body. Watermelon juice is considered beneficial for people suffering from kidney disease. Watermelon juice is also useful for people who have diabetes, cystitis, and atherosclerosis.
Now you know about growing watermelon at home. We wish you a good harvest!
We plant seedlings of watermelon in open ground (video)
Gallery: watermelon at home (15 photos)
Related posts:
No related entries found.