The inner finish of plasterboard is a versatile and modern solution in the process of refining the walls of the apartment. This method is carried out, walls in the apartment and the design of the loggia. This idea is selected as, because it is pretty durable, malleable material with which various design and architectural compositions can be carried out.

Plasterboard sheet is a durable, dense and reliable material for repairing repair in any room. The structure is quite simple, there is a dense cardboard over the GLC, and inside the material for the transformation of the apartment design - a mixture of filler from plaster and special components that compact the structure of the material.

Before starting the decoration of premises with plasterboard, it is necessary to choose the type of material depending on the features of the house microclimate or separately taken. There are several building materials on the building materials market today, each of which has a number of features and features.

Types of plasterboard

Depending on the scope of application, the owners of an apartment or a wooden, brick house choose the type of material that will be separated by walls and other surfaces in space. Whatever kind of GLCs is chosen in any case for or house this type of material is most popular among designers, builders. Indeed, by designing the indoor space of plasterboard, you can embody the brightest, unexpected and bold.

Photo: decorated wall design in the interior of rooms in the house.

Benefits of material

When it is decided that the internal finish of the wooden house with plasterboard will be implemented, you need to understand what the advantage of this material. The following nuances can be attributed to positive GLC factors:

Look in the video: Step-by-step instructions for mounting plasterboard on glue.

Regardless of whether the walls of the brick house must be separated or the surface of the brusade surface, the process of the frameless installation of HCL is carried out in the following way:

• it is desirable that the walls are relatively smooth, in this way, it turns out to create an ideal surface that will enjoy and lines the surfaces of the inner corners;
• for mounting drywall on a wall of aerated concrete, you must purchase a special glue solution. If the difference varying in height is no more than 7 mm, then special glue is applied with a thin layer on the wall surface and on a sheet of drywall. When the height difference is greater than 7 mm, the glue is poured into the center of GLC, as well as throughout the perimeter;

Step-by-step instruction of frameless wall cladding plasterboard

• with very large wall height differences, OSBs for interior decoration are also used so that the surface is as smooth as possible. Out of OSB glitters of plasterboard sheets glue.

The use of OSB plates for the interior decoration of the walls of the house, which will then be covered with plasterboard sheets

Wooden wall drywall

The execution of finishing works on different surfaces varies. You need to think about it before choosing the work technology. To implement, usually use a frame method for installing GCL.

Frame under plasterboard in a wooden house

If a country house is made of wood, then the frame is installed on the bars, you can choose, both wooden and metal profile for fixing top of it coating from plasterboard material. It is difficult to definitely answer the question of which frame is better to prefer. It all depends on the preferences of the wizard. Sheets are attached with self-tapping screws. Regardless of which framework for the frame is selected to carry out internal work, the mounting to the wall is carried out by the standard method. The most important thing is to control the evenness of the angles of plasterboard, so that flaws are not formed at the joints. The process of finished wooden walls in the country house or apartment is simple. Therefore, having finished at home by plasterboard or, a veranda, each owner can cope with independently, without contacting the specialists.

Pay attention to two videos: wall decoration in the old wooden house with plasterboard sheets.

All photos from the article

The covering of a wooden house inside with plasterboard practiced not particularly often, so finding an experienced master is not easy. On the other hand, the work does not represent too much difficulty, and it can be performed with your own hands.

In this article we will talk about the peculiarities of the independent lining of a wooden house.

Wooden House Finish Glk

Points for and against"

Wooden houses possess a special aesthetics, which is created by a unique drawing of wood fibers, and many make a decision to build a house from the bar, including because of this particular. With this approach, the decoration of the walls of the plasterboard seems meaningless, but not everything is so unique.

There are a number of convincing arguments, which under certain circumstances can change a similar point of view:

1. The house is not built for sole use, and the members of your family have tastes may differ from yours. Especially often it concerns children who are closer to a modern design, so the finishing of their rooms can be transformed using GCL;
2. Over time, wood darkens, fades, cracks. Update the old interior can be by placing it with plaster sheets;
3. The covering of the GLC allows you to additionally insulate the walls of a wooden house, as well as reduce their sound permeability;
4. Plasterboard perfectly lines even the most uneven walls and ceilings;
5. The sheathing of individual rooms in different styles will only emphasize the originality of wooden rooms, and will also make a variety and make your home is not so boring;
6. Under the sheets you can hide communications, wiring, with their help you can create decorative niches, arches, shelves, etc.;
7. Suspended ceilings from GLC will allow creating special lighting, apply zoning and revitalize the interior of the room.

If we talk about the technical side, the use of gypsum panels will not violate and will not worsen the characteristics of the walls. Plasterboard has the same vapor permeability, like a tree, is absolutely safe, completely environmental. It no less effectively regulates the humidity mode of the room and helps to keep heat.

Finally, the price of materials is small in comparison with alternative options, such as siding, blockchas or lining. In addition, work is produced faster and easier, require less skill and experience.

Important! Many are interested in: "Is it possible to seize the wooden house with plasterboard?". A positive answer to this question is supported by a whole set of arguments, which is given above.

Materials and methods

Ensures at least two ways: frame and frameless. The first implies the installation of sheets on a wooden or metal crate, and the second is sticking the coating directly on the wall.

Important! For a frameless way of installation, the most smooth walls are needed, and the wooden houses just differ in their curvature, so this laying is not suitable. In addition, the glue layer will worsen the vapor permeability of the walls.

For a skeletal installation method, two options are possible: a doomlet of a bar or a frame of a metal profile. Let's look at these options in Read more:

Comparative characteristics	Wooden doom	Frame from profile
Cost	Low	Higher than the wooden crate, but quite lifting
Strength	Satisfactory	High
Durability and reliability	Susceptible to rotting, insect destruction, over time loses properties	High
Quality	To obtain a high-quality smooth surface, the bars often have to double and strict	Impeccable, absolutely smooth profile, the fastening method eliminates the temperature changes in geometry
FEATURES OF MONTAGE	Mounted on a self-tapping screw using all sorts of linings and wedges to align	Mounted on specially provided fastenings with self-draws, attachments suggest an easy way to align

Important! Despite the fact that the installation on a wooden crate is practiced quite often and quite successfully, we advise you to use a specially designed metal assembly profile, especially for newcomers.

Stages of work

Instructions for installing GLCs on a wooden wall of significant differences from the standard installation scheme has no.

We list the main stages of the work:

• The wall should be prepared. To do this, its surface must be cleaned from dust and dirt, remove it all unnecessary, repaired flaws. It is advisable to treat the wood with antifungal composition;
• Next you need to mark. To do this, on both sides, using the plugs, we carry out a vertical line on the adjacent walls at a distance of 50 - 60 mm from the angle, these lines connect along the floor. Then spend vertical lines on the wall at a distance of 60 cm from each other;
• Along the line on the floor mount the guide PNP profile. Along the vertical lines on the wall we mount direct suspensions for mounting racks at a distance of 50 cm from each other with a shift in each row by 25 cm;
• Mount the vertical PP profile on the suspension. The inter-axis distance between the racks is strictly 60 cm;
• We screw the sheets of GLC on the screw. Step between self-sales - 25 cm. There should be small gaps between sheets;
• If the heights of the sheets are not enough, we increase them into the disintegration, so that the seams do not coincide, joking on additional horizontal profiles;
• We stick to the sutures of the sickle and put them with the composition of the type "unifotty" or "fogenfuller".

Output

The sheathing sheets of drywall wooden walls is possible, and in some cases even desirable. The video in this article demonstrates the phased manual for the installation of frame and sheets.

The decoration inside the house of plasterboard uses the most popular among the population. And it has its own reasons.
The inner trim of plasterboard house is made according to certain rules and according to the technology that should not be changed. And most importantly, it is typical for the walls and for the ceiling.
Our article is dedicated to this topic. You will learn all the details of this type of finish.
You can see photos and videos on this topic. You can fulfill work with your own hands than and reduce the cost of work, and significantly.

This is the most used material. Let's deal with how much he will arrange you.
So:

• The price of the material is not so high and almost everyone can afford it. Moreover, it is possible to install completely with your own hands and without resorting to assistance.
  By this, you will save pretty decent money;
• During work, you can immediately be insulation. And it will be, as an addition to the design and will not suffer for a malfunction;
• You can apply any lighting devices and elements of energy saving. It is possible and to provide for the installation of point lamps;
• In this design, you will not particularly be interested in the evenness of the base plane. You can hide not the necessary pipes and communications;
• As a result, you get a perfectly smooth surface.

Choose plasterboard

This will be the first stage of work, you need to decide on the type of material that is suitable for different types of room. From this will depend on the quality of the installation and the durability of the entire design.
It should be chosen depending on the type of room and the environment. For proper finish, it is necessary to choose a material that can be divided into groups, each of which will be applied to the room depending on the environment.
So:

• GLC, this is the most common material that can be used in any room. Only it can be attached if the humidity and temperature are within the normal range.
  All sheets have green and blue marking;
• GKLO, this sheet relates to fire-resistant materials. It should be used in rooms with elevated temperatures.
  It can carry even a direct effect of fire. Perfectly suitable for finishing the attic room and boiler room.
  In the manufacture of it is added a reinforcing component, which makes it not susceptible to fire. Sheets are produced gray and have red markings;
• G CLEM, this material can be applied in rooms with high humidity. You can successfully apply for trimming of the kitchen and bathroom (see the bathroom duct room with plasterboard: work order).
  It includes anti-grab components and you should not worry about the occurrence of fungus. The composition includes an impregnated cardboard, which is not susceptible to high humidity.

ATTENTION: You do not think that it is easy to pour into this material. Facing the surface should also be done.

Installation of plasterboard

The decoration of plasterboard inside the house is made completely equally both for the walls and for the ceiling. There is only some difference in fastening the crate.
We also say about it. The instruction will be given on both types of finish.
Only all this work is done in several stages that are important and should be followed.

Surface preparation

The interior decoration of the frame house with plasterboard and any other begins precisely from the preparation of the base plane. From its implementation, the durability of the design and its quality will depend on it.
It is done in the following sequence:

• To begin with, it is necessary to clean all the surface with the previous coating.
  To do this, use a brush for metal. Remove the old wallpaper and whiten;
• We make an inspection of the plane. We are not interested in not fatty coverage, we need to reveal the detachment of the previous coating.
  If they are, then they should be removed using a hammer and chisel;
• After that, we apply antiseptics antifungal, which is in a free sale. This should be done.
  If this problem begins after installation, then there will be great troubles. Give the preference of deep penetration fluid and process a couple of times.
  Let us completely dry the surface;
• Now we apply a layer of primer. This is done using a brush or puncher.

Installation of carcass

The internal finish of the house of plasterboard is performed on a frame that can be made of metal or from wood. It depends on your desire and only.

When the construction stage is completed and is approaching the turn of the finish, then the question of choosing a material is raised. If the walls are not even, then the sheathing of plasterboard is perfect. At the same time, you can make redevelopment, add various designs and additional partitions or create arches, with which you can conditionally divide the room into several zones.

This finish provides good protection against moisture to the wooden walls and retains heat inside the house. It is easy to work with this material, so you can cope with him for anyone who wants.

Pluses of trim plasterboard walls in a wooden house

If you choose between clapboard and plasterboard, then the second option will get cheaper. This finishing material is considered environmentally friendly, so it can be used for health, and it can be used as a wall insulation.

Plasterboard is easily mounted, it has a low weight. You can use it for both walls and ceiling. With it, you can hide all defects and irregularities of the surface, close the wires and pipes.

The design from the profile to which plasterboard is mounted can be used for insulation or vaporizolation. It will help to additionally protect the house from the freezing, the formation of mold and fungus on the walls.

There is absolutely fireproof plasterboard for wall decoration in a wooden house. It is not subject to burning due to its special composition. Thus, it will ensure the reliability of the whole house and will not allow the flame to flare.

In addition, the perfectly aligned surface allows you to invent various original interior options. You can make pictures or panels, paint or bleed wallpaper, create various versions of the ceilings or apply the tile.

Is everything so good if you use plasterboard in a wooden house?

Nuances finish

In addition to the large number of advantages, drywall has no shortcomings that should be considered when working. We list the main ones:

1. Fragile material. Sheets need to gently move and transport, otherwise you can disrupt their integrity. If there are walls from drywall, then you need to remember that it will not work out heavy items. Or the profile design will have to strengthen in advance.
2. It will not be possible to work with drywall if the thermometer column in the working area falls below 10 degrees of heat.
3. Due to the use of carcass drywall, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room decreases significantly.

Plasterboard is a fireproof and eco-friendly material. Building stores offer different types of this material. What look to choose for the interior decoration of the walls of a wooden house with plasterboard?

Types of plasterboard

The construction markets present the following types of this material:

• Standard drywall is an extruded gypsum mixture from two sides covered with cardboard sheets. You can use in rooms with low humidity.
• Moisture-resistant plasterboard. The composition of this material has special additives that prevent the formation of fungal formations, mold and moisture accumulation.
• Plasterboard reinforced. It is based on fiberglass additives, so such material is more durable and durable.
• Mixed type of drywall - both types are combined in it: moisture-resistant and reinforced. This material is not afraid of no fire, nor moisture, no open rays of the sun.

Preparation of walls in a wooden house

The newly built wooden building should simultaneously sleep for about six months so that the foundation is saturated. Only after that conduct a finish. Only at home from the glued bar are not sitting so much, so you can not wait so much time. Walls need to be cleaned and remove the old coating from them if it is available.

Then it is necessary to handle a wooden bar with a special solution, insulate it and close all the gaps. To do this, you can use moss, passclock or sealant. Be sure to pass the logs.

Installation of carcass

The decoration of plasterboard walls in a wooden house involves the installation of a floating frame, because despite the fact that the time shrinkage of the house is exjected, the sedimentation process does not end on it. To create structures, you can use profiles from both wood and metal.

Is it possible to mount plasterboard on wooden bars? The answer will be simple - why not?

Frame from a tree

As you know, the natural tree is subjected to the processes of rotting and infection of the fungus. Sometimes there are insects in it. To ensure durability and moisture protection, it is necessary to process and soak the bars with special antiseptic means, and then carefully dry them.

Under the bearing supports, take a bar at least 75 by 25 mm. For the crossbar, 50 mm strips are suitable. The support should be equal to the width of the leaf of plasterboard. To ensure the reliability of the frame, you need to fix the crossbars as often as possible. And the support should be located in the center of the sheet. Crossbars Place in the locations of the panels. Use plastic dowels as fasteners.

Tip: Attach a bar to the wall, drill a hole under a dowel through to appear not in the wall. Drive a dowel to the wall, and then, applying a bar again, twist the screw.

Metal carcass

Before we have a plasterboard wall in a wooden house, put the metal frame. It is more durable and reliable. Supports are also installed with measured the same distance and check the level. But they need to be attached to the crate, which is securely resting on a wooden basis. Self-tapping screws are also used in the attachment.

When finishing with plasterboard walls of a wooden house, some people stick sheets straight on the walls, believing that they are quite smooth. However, this method is suitable only for concrete or brick walls.

Also at the decoration of the walls after the shrinkage there is another method - it is the creation of new designs with the help of sheets. In this case, the frame must be placed a little further from the walls and tinted with sheets. It turns out the partition on scratch.

The grille is created from profiles, and there is a heat insulating layer between it. Then there is a vapor barrier layer from the film. The film is fastened with imposition of cloths on each other, and then pass along the seams of scotch. Also in the frame design you can lay the wiring and hide the pipes. Wires are better to isolate in a corrugated pipe. In the frame racks, it is necessary to pre-leave small distances, in which the cable can then be paved. It must pass tightly, for this you can use jumpers.

Install the frame so that the ceiling is left to the ceiling 3-4 cm, and to the floor - about 1 cm. In order for the air at temperature drops to circulate freely, such gaps can be closed.

When the timber is prepared and built frame, you can move to the next step - the walls of the walls of the plasterboard in a wooden house.

Installation of plasterboard sheets

As a rule, qualified builders are engaged in this work. However, it is possible to make it yourself. Consider how to sheathe the walls of plasterboard in a wooden house with their own hands.

After completion of the installation of plasterboard sheets, the finish finish stage occurs. All formed seams between sheets is better to smoke with a special grid and sharpen.

In this article, we reviewed the detailed instructions for finishing a wooden house drywall with their own hands. Imagine your ideas into reality, create original multi-level ceilings, make racks and partitions or just spend the walls. Make the design reliable and durable so that you can hang on the new wall decor elements in the future.

14409 0 5

Wooden house drywall trim: 3 most compulsory rules

This summer we spent a lot of time to study the country real estate market, as they are going to move closer to the city in the near future. Now we know that our funds are only enough to the house from the bar, so there was a question of his finishing ahead, and in particular, how to sew a wooden house from the inside by plasterboard.

And since most of the finished buildings are erected from a rather thin bar of 15x15, it would be nice to think about insulation.

With plasterboard, we are familiar enough closely - more than once used in repair, but its installation technology in a new wooden house, as it turned out, has its own nuances.

Terms of Finishing

I counted three of these rules that are not found when cladding brick or concrete walls.

First - Preventive Processing

Associated with the instability of wood to the effects of moisture, insects, fire and other aggressive factors. If bugs are headed under the skin or mold will appear, we just do not know about it until the walls start rotting and pouring.

Therefore, the first thing to be done is:

• Okay crocking gaps and large cracksin which bugs can be built and moisture accumulate;
• Processing walls with flame retardants (fire-fighting) and antiseptic (antifungal) compositions;

• And the insulation under the plasterboard in a wooden house is necessarily closed by a vapor insulating film so that the moisture from the house does not penetrate the wood. Although it is recommended to do even in the case when the insulation is not used.

Second - sliding frame device

The fact that new wooden houses for the first one and a half or two years old give a significant shrinkage, I think it is not worth explaining.

• This is natural, as the tree dries, loses moisture, and with it and its original size. It "pinps".

• At the same time, it also leads: the timber can be involved in one direction or another, and initially smooth walls become far from even. Of course, it can not be happy, so the walls need to align.
• A much lesser shrinkage is suspended with a dry profiled timber, but there are more expensive at home. And in those for us to pocket, instruction does not recommend starting to finish until a complete shrinkage Neither inside or outside.
• But even after the completion of the heat drying process, the wooden walls continue to "walk", as depending on the humidity of the air, they absorb moisture, then they lose it. The scale, of course, is not already those, however, if the frame under the plasterboard is rigid on the walls, the seams between individual sheets can crack.

therefore the frame must be independent and do not move along with the carrying basis.. And the cladding of the ceiling should not be rigidly related to the walls of the walls. This is exactly the main feature of the decoration of wooden houses. Mounting the same plasterboard, as well as its putty, are performed in a standard way.

Third - Measures of Electrical Safety

There is another nuance associated with the electrical wiring device. The decoration of the brusade house with plasterboard allows you to hide it behind the trim. But this is fraught with wall fire due to the slightest damage to the wire caused by screw or short circuit into it. And how quickly burn such houses, I saw.

That is why the wiring in them is made open, hiding in cable channels. But there is another solution: Tighten all cables in special metalworks. Not in plastic corrugations and not in plumbing plastic pipes, as often do, but only in metal.

Device of sliding carcass

If everything is clear with the first and third points, then the second made me get into the study of this question thoroughly. Because, making repair with your own hands, we have never thought about it that the frame can be mounted somehow otherwise than harshly to the wall. On the contrary, they tried to fasten everything stronger.

But, as it turned out, it can be reliably held on the ground and, at the same time, "swim" in the vertical plane, together with the cladding screwed to it, which eliminates its deformation and appearance of surmix cracks. And it can be both wooden and metallic.

Metal carcass

If the wooden house is planned immediately after the main shrinkage, it is advisable to use only metal profiles for the framework of the framework, as not subject to their own deformations due to the influence of external conditions.
All that will be required to create it is listed in the table.

Name	View	Dimensions	Application
Guide profile		28x27 mm	Remove the floor level, support for racks
Ceiling profile		60x27 mm	Carrier part of the carcass
Saws for the washer		5-10 cm in dependence nervosity	Mounting frame to the wall
Self-seeds		12.5-13.5 mm	Connecting frame elements with each other

And the standard set of tools: level (better laser), roulette, screwdriver with nozzles, flower, small Bulgarian, stepladder, pencil.

Now about the main points of the sliding frame device.

• First, as usual, the level of the floor and the ceiling is fought off, but the guide is attached only to the floor.
• Then, with the help of a laser level and roulette, there are lines for vertical racks, the distance between the axes of which should be 40 or 60 cm. That is, one guide must accounted for exactly on the joint of two adjacent sheets 120 cm wide, and one more or two is under them.

• Next, the height of the wall is measured, and the racks are cut so that their length is about 10 cm less than this height: they should not rest in the ceiling. And 10 cm is a sufficient stock for a possible shrinkage, of course, if the house has already been satisfied at least a year.
• By the way, I advise you to pay attention to the thickness of the profiles. 0.4 mm is not enough, the frame is harvested. It is better to take 0.6 mm, the price is higher, but quality at the level.
• Now the most interesting. Take the first rack, apply it to the markup and mark on it 3-4 attachment points in those places where there are no joints or deep cracks in the bar. And on the wall, and on the profile they write a difer 1 to not confuse.
• In the marked places cut through the grinder along the axis of the profile of 10 cm long and the width of a little longer than the thickness of the self-press. His edges must be cleaned, they must be smooth. The main length of the groove should go down from the intended point of attachment.

• Similarly, cook all other wall and angular racks, not forgetting to numbered, as the grooves can work out at different levels.
• Now, just above each slot on the wall, you need to fix the stops from pieces of bars that will not give the profile "Falling". Their thickness should be such that the outer edge coincides with the plane of the future frame.

• We screw the racks to the wall using the screws with the washers of this diameter so that they stably rest in the profile plane. At the same time, the profile is set by the "collegial society", and the self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the groove, retreating from the top of it about the centimeter. When the house is settling, it pulls the rigid fastener down, deforming the rack or pulling out the tapping screws. In our case, this will not happen, as it will move along a specially made gap inside the profile. From above, too, there is a small space in case of the expansion of wood from moisture.

• In the process of installation, do not forget to lay an electrical wiring in metal sleeves behind the frame.

• Since drywall is not screwed to such a frame, the next step is to combine already installed P-shaped profiles with the same, but turned the right side. They are twisted with each other by self-seeds-seeds through the side faces or connect the rod.
• Finally, the transverse stiffese profiles are installed, after which the sheathing of plasterboard can begin in a wooden house.

On the facing, too, there are several nuances, but about them a little later.

Wooden frame

Wooden bars as a carrier frame is recommended to be used only in the houses that have passed the full shrinkage. They themselves should also be dry and treated with the same compositions as the walls.

The principle of the carcass device is the same, just the grooves drank through the bar. On the outside around the groove, it is advisable to make a sample to make a sample that the scope does not chop out for the frame plane.

It is going faster than metallic, as the plane for fastening the plasterboard is already there. And if you need to minimize the distance between the wall and the trim, then the bars can be dried into the wall, the groove in it is slightly wider than their thickness. The main thing is that they everywhere dashed out for the irregularities of the wall and created one plane.

And a few more nuances

Since when shrinking a cut, the ceiling will fall down, then we are wearing a wooden house with plasterboard a little, as usual. Namely:

• First we are waving the ceiling. By the way, the framework for him can also be hard to fasten to the walls, it is better to use flexible suspensions and thrust.

• Sheaving the walls, do not bring facing up to several centimeters (depends on the degree of possible shrinkage) and leave the gap from the floor 1 cm. These slots can be closed by plinths and ceiling eaves of the appropriate width by fastening them on horizontal surfaces.
• Between the sheets, too, you need to leave a thin slot of 1-2 mm. It hits with a putty during the subsequent finish, and in the case of uneven movements of different parts of the walls, it will not allow cracks on plasterboard.

Conclusion

Of course, if there was a wooden log house in front of the decoration for several years and good dryness, then its small deformations in changes in temperature and humidity can not affect the integrity of the tight frame. And they can and influence - it is impossible to predict it.

And we still do not want to wait for these few years, a maximum of a year, since they do not like to freeze, which means that the house for the winter needs to be instep. Therefore, the sliding frame for us is the perfect solution to the problem.

Another way to create it is described on the video in this article, but it seemed to me more complex and long. But these are only my personal feelings, so I would like to know the opinion of the practitioners or those who have already encountered drywall works in the houses from the bar. If not difficult, share them in the comments.

September 28, 2016.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!