Every gardener who has a vineyard on his plot sooner or later has to renew, replace or expand the number of available vines. There are several ways to accomplish these tasks. One of them is the propagation of grapes using cuttings.
Propagation of grapes by cuttings: technique and method features
Cutting is the process of selecting vines from a fruiting plant for the purpose of subsequent germination and rooting. It is based on the great potential of grapes for self-healing and regeneration. Cutting is not the easiest way to propagate this garden culture, but at the same time it is one of the most popular.
The grape obtained from cuttings carries all the qualities of the mother plant
A gardener can independently prepare cuttings (shanks) from existing plants. At the same time, you can be sure of the quality of the future grapes, since the new bush will carry all the qualities of the mother. Thus, it is possible to choose healthy vines with optimal yield, large berry size, disease resistance and other qualities of interest to the grower.
Cuttings in autumn
The autumn period is considered optimal for harvesting cuttings. By this time of year, the vine accumulates the necessary amount of nutrients for the upcoming wintering.
When preparing cuttings, the following important points should be considered:
- the procedure should begin after the end of the leaf fall;
- for cutting, a grape bush with a stiff vine without signs of any disease is selected;
- the vine bore fruit in the past season;
- the stalk should be as straight and long as possible (about 60–80 cm), 7 to 10 mm thick.
Shaft length - 60-80 cm, thickness - from 7 to 10 mm
After the cuttings are cut, they should be prepared for wintering and a storage location should be chosen. For this:
Do not forget to mark the cuttings if you are harvesting different grape varieties.
Storing cuttings
Different places are used for storing cuttings:
Cuttings in summer
In May or June, before the flowering of grapes (or during it), green cuttings are harvested:
By autumn, with proper care, the seedlings will grow 40–50 cm and develop a good root system. During this time, the plants are dug up and stored in the basement until the spring planting in a permanent place.
Video: harvesting green cuttings
Preparing cuttings for rooting in spring
For spring grape cuttings, preparation should begin in late January or early February. During this period, cuttings are taken from storage sites and their condition is checked. To understand the quality of the material, you should press the pruner on the lower cut and look at the moisture that appears. Cuttings that have allocated a small volume of it are suitable for further use. The lack of moisture indicates that the cutting is dry, and a large amount indicates its decay.
After that, for two days, the cuttings that have passed the selection are soaked in warm settled water, which is changed daily. After this period, you can additionally keep the branches in a solution that stimulates root formation for 1–2 days. Then the cuttings are germinated in a convenient way for rooting and further planting in open ground.
Rooting cuttings
Before planting, the cuttings must be rooted.
Rooting at home
Conservative methods of planting grape cuttings at home are soil rooting and water germination.
Rooting in soil:
Germination in water:
The roots begin to appear after about 3 weeks. A shank with a root length of 3 mm can be planted in the ground in order to provide them with the necessary amount of oxygen, which is not in the required volume in the water.
The longer the roots are, the more likely they are to break during transplantation.
A shank with a root length of 3 mm can be planted in the ground
Kilchevanie
The kilchevaniye method allows the rudiments of the root system to develop faster than shoots. For the roots, optimal increased conditions of temperature and humidity conditions are created, and for the aboveground part of the plant, they are deliberately reduced. Depending on the ambient temperature, it is necessary to either warm up the lower part of the plant, or cool the upper one. According to statistics, sprouted grape cuttings take root 3 times more often than sprouted by conventional methods.
It is necessary to take into account the timing of kilchevaya This procedure lasts an average of 18-21 days, during this time callus is formed on the cuttings, which will become a harbinger of root development.
Callus is a plant tissue that forms on the surface of wounds of shoots or cuttings as a result of the division of nearby living cells
There are quite a few ways of kilchevka. In all cases, the cuttings are freshened in water and furrows are made in the lower part. Of course, the best quality in maintaining the desired temperature will be the use of an automatic kilchevator with an adjustment mechanism. It is important not to leave the process on its own and not to allow excessive growth of the callus layer, as this will complicate the subsequent germination of roots, forming a plug. It is possible to avoid this moment by setting the temperature for the lower part of the shank slightly lower than generally accepted (about 20 ° C), and also regularly checking the plants.
Video: do-it-yourself grape killer
A more common method is when a special pit is being dug on the site for picking:
Video: fishing in the ground
Other germination methods
At home, cuttings can also be germinated in other materials at hand.
In sawdust
Instead of the usual soil, cuttings can be germinated in sawdust of hardwood trees. The cuttings are pre-furrowed, as usual, and placed in water for two days with the addition of honey (1 tsp per 10 l). The sawdust is pre-steamed - they are poured with boiling water and cooled. After that, it is wrung out and placed wet in a container, for example, a bucket or container. Cuttings are placed in sawdust in an upright position. In this method, as in others, it is necessary to maintain the temperature difference between the lower and upper parts of the cutting. It will take about a month for the roots to germinate. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten the sawdust.
It is possible to root cuttings not only in classical soil, but also in ordinary sawdust
In potatoes
There is a way to germinate grape shanks, when ordinary potatoes are used as a source of nutrition. The prepared shank is simply stuck into a potato, from which the eyes are removed in advance. If it is a warm season, then the root crop with cuttings is dug in with earth and covered with film or plastic bottles. By autumn, such cuttings will be ready for wintering.
Using potatoes is the most budgetary option for a nutritious substrate for cuttings
In coconut fiber
Coconut fibers are sold compressed. Before placing the cuttings, soak them with water.
One of the advantages of this material is its wastelessness. After the grapes have germinated, the coconut substrate can be mixed with soil to plant the vines.
For germination, you can use any plastic containers that are suitable in size, on the bottom and sides of which ventilation holes are made. The coconut fiber is saturated with moisture enough to provide the stalk with it throughout the growing period. You just need to take care of closing the upper part of the container to avoid excess evaporation. If, nevertheless, the coconut dries up, then you can saturate it by adding a little water to the pan where the container is located.
After sprouting grapes in a coconut tablet, this substrate can be used for other plantings.
Germinated cuttings care
When the roots of the cuttings reach a length of 3 mm, they must be transplanted into full-fledged soil for further growth before planting in an open place.
Soil preparation
The soil for planting cuttings should be light, have low acidity or neutral pH values. It can consist of fertile soil, sand and humus in equal parts. It is possible to add sawdust or replace the sand with perlite - this way the mixture will better retain moisture and become looser.
You can purchase ready-made soil for seedlings, focusing on the above parameters, as well as the presence of vermicompost, nutrients and minerals in it.
Soil for growing grapes can be bought either ready-made or mixed independently
Transfer
Plastic cups or cut bottles with drainage holes can be used as transplant containers. The more spacious the container, the more opportunities the grapes have to grow into a strong plant. The optimal volume is 1–2 liters.
A small layer must be poured at the bottom for drainage. When filling the container, it is necessary to compact the soil a little, so as not to deprive it of its airiness, but also not to allow it to settle strongly later. The cutting is usually deepened by 1/3 of the height of the container, leaving more room below for the development of the root system. During planting, make sure that the cutting is securely fixed in the container and does not fall. Planting should be done very carefully so as not to damage the small fragile roots. At the end of the procedure, the plant must be well watered.
Young grapes need good lighting conditions. If there is not enough natural light, then provide additional with phytolamps.
Watering
Watering should be started no earlier than 1.5–2 weeks after planting, since the cuttings have enough liquid for this time, which it was watered with at that moment. To understand whether the plant needs moisture, you need to check the layer of earth at a depth of 4 cm - it must be dry. It is recommended to water with warm, settled water through a sump as the soil layer dries out. The bay must not be allowed, as the roots of the grapes cannot stand it. It is also possible to water directly into a container in a volume equal to a small glass per liter of soil. Carefully loosen the soil to avoid crusting. If the humidity in the room is not high, you can spray the top of the grapes with a spray bottle daily.
Top dressing of transplanted cuttings
If the soil is bought for planting, then there are already enough nutritional supplements in it. In this case, there is no need to feed the cuttings.
In the case of self-collection of the soil mixture for feeding, you can use industrial fertilizers, which are diluted in water and applied along with irrigation. You can use drugs:
- Zdraven Aqua,
- Florovit,
- Blank slate and others.
Video: caring for vegetative seedlings
Preparing cuttings for planting
The grape cuttings that have grown and turned into seedlings are planted when the air temperature outside becomes stable and not lower than 10 o C. Usually, such conditions fall in May.
In extreme cases, you can land at the very beginning of June, but not later. Otherwise, the young plant will not have time to "settle down" in a new place and keep within the rest of the growing season.
At the planned time, at least 4 leaves should grow on the cuttings. The number of roots is 3 or more, their length is about 8 cm. This will be easy to track if you initially use a transparent container for growing. It is first necessary to harden the cuttings by taking them outside in a shady place during the day for 5-7 days.
If you grow cuttings in a transparent container, you can easily monitor the condition of the roots.
Grafting grapes in spring with cuttings
If it was not planned to allocate additional space in the garden for the expansion of the vineyard, then it is possible to graft the cuttings into the prepared stock. In this case, it is not necessary to pre-germinate the material. Also, the time required for the rooting of the vine will be reduced, and, accordingly, the waiting period for the first harvest. There are aboveground and underground methods of vaccination. The second is considered more preferable, since in this case more cuttings take root. However, this method is more labor intensive.
An additional difficulty with underground grafting is that it is necessary to completely remove the aboveground part of the grapes that will be used as a rootstock. In this case, the plant is dug in to a depth of 20 cm, the old stem is cut down, the cut is cleaned with a clean knife and wiped with a cloth. Depending on the size of the stem, up to 4 previously prepared cuttings can be grafted into it. The preparation procedure includes placing them in water for two days so that they are saturated with moisture, as well as immediately before inoculation into a solution with a growth stimulator (0.5 tablets of Heteroauxin per 1 liter of water) for 5–7 hours.
Procedure:
To avoid serious problems during the entire long cuttings procedure, you should adhere to the basic tips:
- At the time of harvesting the cuttings, it is worth choosing the ripened, lignified parts of the vine - unlike young green ones, sap flows more intensively in them, making them easier to take root.
- It is recommended to disinfect the instrument after each cut in order to avoid contamination of the material.
- To minimize the loss of moisture during storage, the cuttings are treated with paraffin.
- When germinating, a hydrogel can be added to the soil for additional moisture retention. This will not be an obstacle - the roots will grow through it perfectly.
- In the conditions of the middle lane before spring planting, the option of early rooting of cuttings (at the end of February) with subsequent rearing than later, but with planting directly into the ground is considered optimal.
- When growing, plant grapes in transparent containers to monitor the development and condition of the root system.
Table: difficulties in growing cuttings and ways to overcome them
| Problem | Possible reasons | Solution method |
| Cuttings dry and curl leaves | Excess nitrogen fertilization or improper soil acidity. | It is necessary to remove the stalk and inspect the roots, if damaged roots are found, remove them, rinse the branch and transplant into a suitable soil. |
| The roots of cuttings darken | Root decay during overflow. | Reduce or temporarily stop watering, or remove rot and root the cutting again. |
| Leaves turn yellow and turn pale | Insufficient lighting. | Choose a brighter spot or use additional artificial light. |
| Roots do not appear |
|
|
| Cuttings dry | Overflowing. | Reduce or temporarily stop watering. |
Cutting grapes is a low-cost and time-saving way to renew your plants or expand your plantation. Even a beginner can master this process.
Every gardener at least once in his life tried to propagate grapes from cuttings at home. Germination of grape cuttings at home does not require special skills. Everyone can grow their own seedlings.
- A large number of seedlings can be grown from cuttings;
- you can use, not throw away shoots after autumn pruning;
- cuttings can be found from friends, exchange the desired varieties, easily sent by mail;
- to purchase grape cuttings is much cheaper in comparison with the cost of finished seedlings;
- cuttings rooted at home are already prepared for planting and will quickly take root in a permanent place.
Why do you need to germinate cuttings
From the moment the vine ripens and the leaves fall off, the grapes "fall asleep" - they enter a state of forced dormancy, which lasts 2–2.5 months. Next, the grapes are preparing for the spring awakening.
Cuttings from February are able to root and grow. There is still snow outside the window, and the roots are already growing in the house and the buds are turning green. This means that the vegetation of the sprouts will begin three to four months earlier. By the time of planting in open ground, we receive already prepared rooted seedlings.
Having germinated the cuttings in advance, we give them an excellent start in development. Bushes are forming at an accelerated rate. They will be better prepared for winter and will begin to harvest earlier.
Harvesting cuttings
Cuttings of grapes, or shanks, are cut from the bushes in the fall in front of the shelter. At this time, the foliage in the vineyard, as a rule, has already flown around. The vine is ripe and has accumulated nutrients for germination.
We choose high-quality cuttings for propagation:
- The shanks are cut from healthy and strong bushes.
- The most suitable vines are fruit vines. Not stepchildren and not fattening shoots.
- The best cuttings are obtained from the middle part of the shoot. Cuttings with a heel - a piece of a two-year shoot are also suitable.
- In the upper part of the bush, the cuttings received more sun and matured better.
- The diameter of the shoots is not thinner than a pencil, seven to ten millimeters.
- We discard cuttings with blackened bark, rot spots, cracks, and also flat ones. Shoots with short internodes are undesirable.
- We examine the sections - they must be healthy.
Storing cuttings
The cut vines are labeled and stored for winter. Convenient and reliable labels made of foil strips from aluminum cans, with an embossed grade name. Storage options for cuttings:
Preparing cuttings for germination
An important point is the preparation of cuttings for germination.
- In early February, we take out the planting material from the storage and inspect it. We discard everything that is dried up and rotten.
- We soak the cuttings for two days in clean, preferably snowy water to saturate the tissues with moisture. We change the water every day.
- To disinfect the cuttings, they are soaked for another day in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
- Now the cuttings are placed with their lower ends in a solution of a stimulant - heteroauxin or epin for a day. Fans of folk remedies use a solution of honey (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), or aloe juice diluted in a 1: 2 ratio.
- Long vines are cut into segments of 2-3 buds. You can cut 3-5 buds and then plant the seedlings deeper. The upper cut is made even, 1–2 cm above the knot. The lower cut is led obliquely under the knot, towards the eye.
- Another secret to successful germination is furrowing cuttings. We scratch the lower ends of our sticks together with the knot from different sides by several centimeters in length. Callus, a white sugary tissue from which roots will begin to grow, will eventually appear in the cuts. These cuttings form more active roots.
How to germinate cuttings at home
Two important conditions awaken cuttings - heat and moisture. Grapes have one feature: first, the buds awaken, shoots begin to grow, and only then the roots germinate. To eliminate this imbalance, the grapes need to create conditions under which the temperature in the zone of root formation will be higher than in the area of \u200b\u200bthe tops.
Gardeners use different methods of sprouting cuttings at home. The most popular of them are:
- stratification in water;
- kilchevoy.
Germinating cuttings in water
Germinating grape cuttings in water is a very simple and affordable way of stratification. It is ideal for aspiring wine growers.
- We put prepared cuttings of 10-12 pieces in glass jars. You can pull cling film over the cans, pierce it and insert the shafts.
- If possible, remove the lower kidney. If this is not done, the shoot from the lower bud can overtake the upper shoots in development.
- Pour no more than 2–3 centimeters of water to the bottom. Why not more? The roots of grapes develop most rapidly at the border of water and air. These are exactly the places that we scratched in advance.
- We put the cans on a warm sunny windowsill. If there is no sun at all, artificial lighting will do.
- We maintain the water level at a constant level, top up as needed.
- We regularly change the water to clean. If bacteria appear in it, the water becomes cloudy. Before the roots appear, the water is changed at least once every 3 days, and, if necessary, daily.
- The most caring gardeners put a layer of cotton wool 2-3 centimeters thick on the bottom, and a layer of gauze or a net on top so that the shanks do not grow into the cotton wool. The cotton wool is filled with water in such a way that it does not cover the entire substrate, but is constantly wet.
With this method of germinating grapes in water, it is important to maintain the correct temperature regime. It's cool on the window, shoots do not germinate too quickly. If the window sill warms up well from the battery, the future roots are provided with the necessary conditions. If it is cold, it makes sense to put a heat-insulating material. It is better not to allow the water to overheat above 26 ° С - the probability of decay is increased.
After about 10-12 days, grape buds begin to sprout. A week later, the roots will appear. If the roots have already grown to 2–3 centimeters, the cuttings can be planted in 1 liter containers with soil and grown on the window as seedlings.
Germination in the substrate
For germination of cuttings in the substrate, a special technique is used - kilcheva. The point of kilchevating is to increase the temperature in the area of \u200b\u200bcallus growth and root germination. In this case, root development is accelerated relative to shoots and leaves.
Advanced gardeners make intricate electric heaters with automatic heating. At home, a kilchevator can be made from a regular plastic bottle.
How to make a kilchevator:
- We take a plastic bottle, cut off the neck.
- We pierce drainage holes in the bottom, fill in drainage.
- We fall asleep with a loose moist substrate - a mixture of soil, sand and weathered sawdust.
- We insert a stalk into the substrate with a slight slope so that the eye remaining above the soil level looks up.
- Cover the stalk with a plastic cup.
- We put the kilchevator in a warm place. The temperature in the kilchevator is 20-25 ° С.
- Water carefully, preferably from a pallet.
- When the shoot appears, the glass is gradually removed.
In the kilchevator, seedlings can grow until they are planted in a permanent place. During this time, the root mass grows in the bottle, clearly visible through the transparent walls. Our goal has been achieved - we have received a healthy seedling suitable for planting.
Today is the Presentation of the Lord, February 15. Winter meets spring, and it's time to start rooting harvested cuttings.
In recent years, breeders have bred a great variety of varieties of this amazing crop. Now, not only residents of the southern regions can enjoy fresh berries from a vine in the garden. There are many dessert varieties that do well in colder regions.
Cuttings cut in the fall cannot be kept outdoors for more than a dayespecially in warmth. They begin to wake up and evaporate moisture.
Why is it better to harvest cuttings in the fallrather than chop out with overwintered vines right in the spring? And all because during the winter the shoots dry out greatly, moisture freezes out of them.
They can also be rooted, but they must first be soaked in water for at least 3 days so that they can restore tissue turgor. The second reason why it is better to rely on fall cuttings is the possibility of freezing the buds in winter.
If severe frosts are not uncommon in your area, it is better to immediately choose and plant grape varieties for the northern regions.
You can choose them in our catalog, which contains the offers of the largest online stores. ...
The beginning of growth
Sometimes it happens that not one, but two or even three shoots develop from the bud. How to be? How many sprouts should there be on the cutting?- A young root system of a cutting will not be able to feed two normal vines, let alone more. It is necessary to leave the one that is stronger or grows straight up.
- If the shoots have developed from the two upper buds, it is better to leave the upper one, so that it is more convenient to later plant the seedling in a permanent place.
Decay of roots
It is also necessary to monitor the temperature: if the seedlings are cold, then the moisture evaporates less and causes decay. In this case, it is better to water them. after the soil has dried... If the trouble nevertheless happened, then you need to dig up the seedling, examine the roots, cut off the rotten to live. Then dust with crushed coal, plant in a new, not too moist soil and put in a warm place.It happens that the roots rot completely, but I really wanted to grow the variety! What to do? The main thing is not to lose hope! Need to refresh the cut to living tissue and put it back in water for rooting.
Problems with roots are signaled by wilting of the top, sometimes drying out of the edges of the leaves ... This can be not only rotting of the roots, but also too dense soil or overflow when the roots are suffocating. If the ground is wet and watering with Kornevin or Radifarm is not possible, then you can try to help the plant by spraying it with Megafol.
Cutting is the most popular and affordable method of grape propagation (germination).On the one hand, it takes a lot of time and some effort, but on the other hand it has a number of advantages. Cuttings are guaranteed to be cut from the best, powerful bushes, and the soil of the backyard is used for rooting, which allows the plant to quickly adapt. In addition, this is how the planting material is obtained exactly in time for planting.
There are several different ways to germinate shanks. Thus, rooting in water provides clarity. And this allows you to prevent the emergence of shoots before the roots appear. Growing in a substrate, in turn, makes it possible to do without an intermediate transplant, which is traumatic for young grapes.
Why you need to germinate
Grapes reproduce in several ways: by germinating seeds, rooting cuttings, layering and planting seedlings. The first method is used extremely rarely as it takes a lot of time, but does not guarantee the result. The latter ensures the absence of diseases, since in nurseries the seedlings are treated appropriately, but economically not very profitable.
The most popular methods for propagating grapes are with cuttings and layering. The preference of one method or another is determined by the weather conditions of the region. Reproduction by layering involves digging in a long young shoot and rooting it in the ground. At the same time, the new bush adapts to the existing soil. However, this option is feasible only if the earth warms up quickly enough in spring, and warm weather is not limited to July.
How to harvest and store grape cuttings in the fall, read on.
It is much safer to propagate grapes with cuttings in northern and middle latitudes, where there is a high risk of late frosts, there are few sunny days and the summer is too short.
- Cuttings are cut from young fertile vines and the owner himself determines which shoots are most suitable.
- In this way, any grape variety can be propagated. - from the most common to the rarest.
- Cuttings are prepared in a special way and rooted in order to obtain first-class planting material just in time for planting.
- Chubuki adapted to the conditions of the personal plot and take root even better than seedlings.
Rooting grape seedlings
Features of winter germination (number, what time, period)
In a well-wintered shank, moisture appears on the cut. In addition, the cut itself has a deep green color.
- The lower cuts on the cuttings are smoothed out with a sharp knife.
- A container of the required volume is filled with lukewarm water - best of all, thawed water, and the shank is placed in it for 2 days.
- After soaking, it is treated with a solution to stimulate root growth. To do this, add heteroauxin, root, sodium humate or even ordinary honey to the water.
Germination (planting cuttings)
There are quite a few different methods to root grape cuttings. Most of them are very simple to implement. However, when rooting, one feature of this breeding method must be taken into account. The stalk needs to be rooted, while the awakening of the upper buds, from which the leaves will develop, is best avoided. To do this, several conditions must be met:
- after soaking, the upper cut of the shank is again covered with a layer of liquid paraffin. Thus, moisture will not get to the top of the plant so quickly;
- it is necessary to observe a certain temperature regime during germination. The optimal conditions for rooting is the temperature of the water or the substrate near the future roots at +24 and +20 C, respectively. The air near the top of the plant should be cool - + 8– + 13 С;
- light is not a condition for germination. When rooting by the Pusenko method, the shanks are stored in a cool, dark place, which does not interfere with germination.
You can provide warm conditions for growing grape cuttings by placing them near the battery.
Germination in water in a jar
This method is the simplest and most intuitive.
- Warm filtered water is poured into a glass liter jar with a layer of 3 cm.
- They put a bunch of cuttings in a jar. In this case, a jelly-like substance should be released from the lower sections. While the juice is being released, the cuttings should be periodically pulled out and washed. When the cut swells, the juice will no longer be released.
- Banks are placed on the windowsill and often ventilate the room. In such a simple way, they ensure that the liquid in the jar remains warm, and the upper part of the plant is in the cold.
- Water is added so that layers of 3 cm are preserved throughout the entire rooting process. Cover the jar with plastic wrap to reduce evaporation.
- After 3-4 weeks, roots appear. As soon as they reach a length of 2-3 mm, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.
Temperature for rooting grape cuttings in water.
The eyes should not be in the water at all. It is known that roots form the fastest at the water / air interface. A thin layer of water provides aeration, and a small distance from the cut to the bud - 1.5–2 cm, ensures that the border passes along the vine node.
It also happens that the buds open before the roots appear, despite all efforts. If there is only one escape, it is left. If several shoots grow, then the very first and strongest one is destroyed - it breaks out. The bush will be able to grow from any shoot, but the prematurely appeared sprout will suck all the nutrients from the cuttings and the plant will not be able to root properly.
In the substrate
After the roots appear, the shanks are planted in the ground, or, more precisely, in a special soil mixture or substrate. However, grapes can be germinated immediately and in the soil mixture. This method is more convenient, since it does not require additional transplantation: containers with grape bushes can simply be planted on the site as soon as warm weather is established.
Coconut substrate consists of nut shells crushed to varying degrees, usually pressed into briquettes, mats, tablets and other forms.
- The most popular substrate is coniferous sawdust. Layers of sawdust, 4–5 cm thick, are poured into the container, moistened with water, a stalk is installed, and then another 3–4 cm of sawdust is sprinkled on top. Periodically you need to check the condition of the substrate - it should be slightly damp, but not dry or wet.
When using this method, the shanks are pre-soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours. Then the cuttings are left in warm water for 2 days.
- Soil substrate - for its preparation, river sand, humus, sawdust and soil from the site are mixed in equal proportions. The substrate is distributed in suitable containers, moistened - it should be slightly damp, drainage is pre-laid on the bottom of the vessels - expanded clay, for example. Then the cuttings are placed in a container and sprinkled with a substrate so that the peephole is below ground level.
Planting and rooting scheme of cuttings using the substrate
When rooted in water, the stalk is considered ready for transplanting into the ground with a root length of several millimeters. However, in this case, soil is understood as containers with prepared soil. When germinating in the substrate, the shanks are planted directly on the site. In this case, the length of the roots should reach 2–4 cm.
Capacities
For germination in substrates, use any suitable container. For the amateur winegrower, these are cheap plastic bottles and cups.
Plant bottle grape cuttings at home
The cut plastic bottle is the most suitable rooting container:
- the material is lightweight, durable and not afraid of moisture;
- the cost is more than affordable;
- the bottom of the bottle is embossed, which makes it possible to do without additional drainage;
- cutting plastic is very easy when ventilation holes are needed.
Bottles are used for sprouting stems in substrates and soil mixtures. Expanded clay is placed on the bottom - if necessary, a stalk is installed, covered with soil mixture. In order not to lose moisture, the bottle, along with the seedling, is covered with a plastic glass on top. When shoots appear, the glass is removed.
When transplanting, the seedling must be removed from the bottle. Plastic does not belong to biodegradable materials, so you cannot plant the sprout with the container.
Cups (germinate at home)
For rooting, both plastic cups and containers made of thick cardboard are used. The latter are more convenient because they do not need to be removed when landing on the site - the cardboard decomposes.
- Gardeners use 2 methods. The first is no different from growing in bottles: the glass is filled with soil mixture, a stalk is placed in it and the roots appear. The second method is more difficult, but allows you to keep the upper buds asleep for as long as possible.
- In the second case, 3 holes are made more in the bottom of the glass with an awl - for ventilation and a layer of soil mixed with humus is laid. Then a smaller glass is inserted into the container and filled with sand. The stalk is placed in sand and watered.
A layer of humus serves not only as a fertilizer, but also maintains the temperature due to the decomposition of organic components. To maintain soil temperature, it is recommended to wrap the glasses with plastic.
How to understand that the seedlings are ready for planting in the ground (a well and correctly sprouted stalk is a condition that you can start / start planting grapes in spring)
Good rooting is a sign that the cuttings can be planted in the backyard. This is not difficult to do.
- The fact that the shanks have begun can be recognized immediately if they germinated in water or a damp cloth: roots 2-3 mm long are already a sign that the seedling will be accepted. However, such roots are still very tender, so you should not rush to land right on the site. The seedlings that have taken root are transplanted into containers with soil mixture.
- If the stalk is rooted in the substrate or soil, the roots cannot be seen. In this case, 3-4 weeks after disembarkation, the shank is slightly tugged. If resistance is felt, then the roots have appeared. It is then recommended to reduce watering.
As a rule, after rooting, very abundant green leaves appear.
- In the substrate and soil mixture with a sufficient volume of capacity, grapes can develop until early June. To plant it, however, it is better earlier - in early to mid-May, as soon as the temperature stops dropping below +19 C.
Find out about planting and caring for grapes in the open field in this.
Video
This video will tell you when to put grape cuttings for germination.
conclusions
- Rooting a large number of cuttings before planting in open ground is a mandatory element for northern and middle latitudes / strips (Siberia, distant Urals). Too short summer limits the growth and development of the plant.
- To prepare for, cuttings are cut from annual, fruiting vines only after the resting phase begins.
- The cuttings are stored all winter (in winter): at home in the refrigerator, in the cellar, in a special storage.
- In late February-mid-March, when the growth phase begins, the shanks germinate. Any suitable method is used for this.
- Cuttings can be rooted (planted) in jars and pots, in a substrate, in a damp cloth. Each way to germinate seedlings has its own advantages and disadvantages.
You can learn how to do spring grape grafting.