All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to mount it yourself. We insulate the walls of a wooden house

A wooden house can rightly be considered the pride of the owners. Wood retains heat well and provides a favorable microclimate in the room, has an attractive design. However, in some cases, the heat-insulating properties of the material are not enough, so the insulation of the house becomes a way out of the situation.

Features of the procedure

The most widespread is the external insulation of the house. However, if it is impossible to fulfill it, you have to resort to thermal insulation of the house, bath or cottage from the inside. It should be noted right away that as a result of these manipulations, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in most cases decreases. An exception is made only for a log cabin, which requires only interventional insulation.

With internal thermal insulation of a house made of any material, the humidity in the room always increases. It is clear that this negatively affects the walls, especially wooden ones. With improper thermal insulation, already in the first year of operation, the insulation will get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties, and wooden surfaces will begin to rot and become moldy.

To avoid such phenomena allows the mandatory installation of a vapor-permeable film and the creation of a powerful ventilation system.

When insulating a wooden house from the inside, it should be remembered that in terms of its effectiveness it cannot be compared with thermal insulation from the outside. This is due to the fact that the wall insulated from the inside does not accumulate heat, so the heat loss is 8-15%. Moreover, cut off from a warm room with a heat-insulating material, such a surface freezes faster.

Another important point is an integrated approach to isolation. You will have to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. If the house has an unheated attic and basement, then it is more rational to give priority and main attention to these areas when insulating.

Enormous, up to 40%, losses of thermal energy fall on windows and doors. It is important not only to use modern double-glazed windows and door leafs, but also to make sure that they are installed correctly and tightly, to take care of insulation and protection of slopes.

A common mistake when insulating a wooden house from the inside is to keep small gaps between surfaces, usually between the floor and walls, walls and partitions, walls and ceiling. Such gaps are called "cold bridges", because heat escapes through them and cold air penetrates.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

For any thermal insulation material, the most important characteristic is the thermal conductivity. The lower it is, the less heat loss the house carries. It is measured in W / m × ° С, which means the amount of thermal energy leaving through the insulation per m2.

When choosing a heat-insulating material for wooden surfaces, attention should be paid to vapor permeability indicators. The fact is that the tree itself is a “breathing” material. It is able to take excess moisture from the air in the room, and in case of insufficient humidity - to give it away.

It is easy to imagine that when using a non-vapor-permeable insulation, moisture from wood will not find an outlet and will remain between the heat-insulating material and wood. This will be disastrous for both surfaces - a wet insulation has a high thermal conductivity, and the tree begins to rot.

Another important criterion for a heat insulator is moisture resistance. It is usually achieved by applying water repellents to the insulation and using a waterproofing film.

If we talk about interventional insulation, then it is impossible to close it with a waterproofing film, therefore the water resistance of the material, along with its thermal efficiency, comes to the fore when choosing a specific product. For indoor use, you should choose an environmentally friendly material. It is important that it belongs to the class of non-combustible or non-combustible, and also does not emit toxins when heated.

The biostability of a product directly affects its durability. If the insulation attracts insects or rodents, then in the course of their life, cracks and damage invariably appear in it, which causes the appearance of "cold bridges".

Among other primary characteristics are ease of installation, a variety of forms of execution and options for density, thickness, affordability.

What is the best way to insulate?

The most common option for warming a wooden house is mineral wool insulation. Usually, glass wool or stone wool is used to organize the heat-insulating layer. The latter surpasses glass wool in terms of technical characteristics, but most importantly, it is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Glass wool emits toxic compounds during operation, therefore it is not recommended for indoor use. In addition, it has the worst indicators of wet strength and fire resistance (although it has high fire-fighting characteristics - the combustion temperature is 400-500 degrees). Finally, it is prone to shrinkage and a decrease in thickness (and this leads to an increase in thermal conductivity); when laying, it requires the use of not only a respirator (like all mineral wool insulation), but also overalls.

In this regard, the use of stone or basalt wool is more attractive. The basis of the material is recycled rock, which is subjected to high-temperature heating (over 1300 degrees). Then thin fibers are isolated from the semi-liquid mass. In a chaotic manner, they are formed into layers, after which they are pressed and subjected to short-term exposure to high temperatures.

The result is a material of varying stiffness, produced in mats, rolls and tiles. Mats have the greatest strength, are suitable for heavily loaded structures, including floor insulation under a screed.

For wooden walls, in most cases, tiled basalt wool is enough; it also fits between the logs of the wooden floor. Roll products are convenient to use when insulating flat horizontal surfaces, such as a ceiling.

The thermal insulation properties are ensured by the location of the fibers, between which air bubbles accumulate in large volumes - the best heat insulator. The coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material, depending on the density and brand, is 0.35-0.4 W/m×°C.

In addition to high thermal insulation, the material demonstrates good sound absorption performance. The sound insulation coefficient of impact noise reaches 38 dB, air - from 40 to 60 dB.

Unlike glass wool, basalt wool is characterized by low moisture absorption, which is on average 1%. In combination with high vapor permeability - 0.03 mg / (m × h × Pa), this allows you to protect the wood from decay and maintain a healthy atmosphere in the house. The melting point of stone wool is about 1000 degrees, so it is considered a non-combustible material. In addition, due to the natural composition, it is possible to achieve the environmental safety of basalt insulation.

Ecowool is also suitable for wall insulation. 80% of the material is cellulose chips treated with flame retardants and antiseptics, the rest is polymer resins, modifiers.

Ecowool refers to bulk materials, but it can also be sprayed onto the surface using special equipment. Despite the treatment with water repellents, the material requires a waterproofing layer. In terms of its thermal efficiency, it is inferior to stone wool.

Modern material for insulation - penofol, also suitable for internal insulation. It is a roll of foamed polyethylene (provides a thermal insulation effect) with a foil layer applied on one side (reflects thermal energy into the room). The presence of a metallized layer increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material, but makes it combustible (class G1).

The well-known polystyrene foam, which has similar thermal conductivity, is not recommended for use inside a wooden house. The fact is that the material "does not breathe." The tree, as you know, is characterized by the ability to take excess moisture from the room and give it away if necessary. In the presence of a polystyrene foam layer, the tree simply cannot get rid of excess moisture, which will lead to the onset of decay. In addition, polystyrene is characterized by toxicity and flammability, it often becomes a home for rodents.

If it is still impossible to refuse its use, preference should be given not to foam, but to extruded polystyrene foam. It is more environmentally friendly, has a higher fire safety.

Another durable and heat-efficient material is polyurethane foam (PPU), at first glance, is the optimal insulation. The low coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as the features of application (it is sprayed onto the surface) not only reduce heat loss, but also eliminate the risk of "cold bridges". However, polyurethane foam does not "breathe" and if, in the case of using expanded polystyrene, it is possible to organize a vapor barrier between the wooden surface and the insulation, then when installing PPU, the creation of this layer is impossible. After 5-7 years, the walls under the PPU layer will begin to rot, and removing it is a rather laborious process.

For interventional insulation, special materials are used. They may be of natural or synthetic origin.

Organic interventional heaters, most often used for internal thermal insulation, include the following types of materials:

Linen insulation

Since ancient times, coarse flax fibers unsuitable for weaving have been used for these purposes. Today, tape insulation is also made on a plant basis and is called linen felt or linen. Differs in high density, vapor permeability (optimal for rooms with high humidity).

Jute

The insulation is based on processed fibers of the bark of an exotic tree of the linden family of the same name. It is characterized by a high content of resins in the composition, which ensures the strength and high antibacterial properties of jute. It protects not only the interventional space, but also the wooden surface itself. However, a large amount of resin leads to inelasticity of the insulation. Over time, it becomes harder and seems to dry out, decreases in volume, which leads to the appearance of cracks. The combination of jute with lnovatin allows to level this drawback.

Felt

Natural woolen material (sheep's wool), thanks to which unsurpassed heat and sound insulation characteristics are achieved. It is treated with water repellents and compounds that prevent the appearance of insects and microscopic life forms in the insulation.

Among materials of artificial origin, synthetic winterizer, polytherm (synthetic polyester-based felt) and PSUL are popular. It is noteworthy that the name "polyterm" originally denoted a certain material from a Finnish manufacturer. However, over time, the term has become a household word. Today, they designate both a specific manufacturer and a type of polyester insulation.

The abbreviation PSUL hides the following name - pre-compressed insulation. Its main ability is the ability to shrink and expand in accordance with linear changes in the dimensions of wood without losing its technical characteristics. In terms of thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, it exceeds similar values ​​of natural heaters. At the same time, it is characterized by vapor permeability, biostability, environmental safety and fire resistance.

When thermal insulation of interventional seams, the use of such heaters as tow and mineral watts should be abandoned due to their lower moisture resistance.

Manufacturers overview

When choosing a heater for a wooden house, it is worth giving preference to well-known, well-established brands.

• The leading position among manufacturers is occupied by the company rockwool(Danish brand, which is also produced in 4 cities in Russia). The range is amazingly varied. Each section of the house has its own line of products. So, for walls, mineral wool insulation "Butts Light" and "Scandic" will be optimal. There are innovative mats for walls of different stiffness within the same mat, roll and slab counterparts. The disadvantage is the high cost (on average 1500 - 6500 rubles / m2).

• Not inferior in quality and products from Germany - tile and rolled mineral wool brands Knauf and Ursa. To insulate the room from the inside, it is enough to select materials with a density of 10-25 kg / m3. The price is within 1200 - 3000 rubles / m2.

• Leading positions are also occupied by French mineral wool insulation in slabs, mats and rolls from the brand Isover. In the collections you can find both lightweight products (density 10-20 kg/m3) and rigid mats for frame houses (density 150-190 kg/m3). The cost is quite high - from 2000 to 4000 rubles / m2.

• Mineral wool produced in Russia, for the most part, is not inferior to Western counterparts in terms of thermal efficiency, vapor permeability and fire resistance. However, it has a more affordable price. User reviews allow you to mark companies such as TechnoNikol, Izovol.

All the manufacturers mentioned above produce a type of thermal insulation wool with improved sound insulation performance.

• Among the best manufacturers of ecowool, it is worth noting the firms Isofloc (Germany), Ekovilla and Termex (Finland), as well as domestic companies Equator, Ecowool Extra and Nanovata.

• Finnish interventional insulation "Polyterm" is rightfully considered one of the most optimal for operation in domestic conditions. In addition to improved thermal insulation qualities, it is distinguished by the presence of special figured elements for decorating joints, corners, and transitions in the house.

• A similar interventional thermal insulation material based on polyester is produced by the Russian brand "Avaterm". According to the manufacturer, due to the highest performance characteristics, the material is able to serve up to 100 years. Popular sealant brands are Weatherall and Neomid - Warm Seam.

How to choose?

When choosing a material, it is important that its density matches that required in a particular area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. In some cases (absolutely in all mineral wool products) the thermal conductivity, rigidity, weight and bearing capacity of the material depend on the density.

Usually, manufacturers indicate not only the density, but also the recommended scope of the material.

Pay attention to the storage conditions of products. Mineral wool insulation should be stored in sealed original packaging, even a slight wetting of the product is unacceptable. Expanded polystyrene is afraid of sunlight, under their influence it begins to collapse.

Types of technology

Depending on the type of materials used, as well as the installation methods used, the following technologies for thermal insulation of a wooden house are distinguished:

Warm seam

It is used for interventional insulation of log houses, for sealing joints between foundation masonry and walls. Suitable for objects in which additional wall decoration from the inside is not provided. For insulation, special interventional insulators are used, as well as silicone sealants. The advantage of this method is the lower labor intensity and cost of the process, the ability to preserve the natural beauty and vapor permeability of wooden coatings.

Insulation on the crate

It is provided for in the presence of interior wall decoration, as well as insufficient thermal efficiency of the interventional insulation. Without fail, it requires vapor barrier and walls and additional ventilation of the house, fixing the frame, fixing the insulation, solid sheathing of the frame with plasterboard and attaching the finishing material to it. Such thermal insulation is effective, and in order to avoid condensation, a gap is maintained between the insulation and the skin for air circulation.

How to do it yourself?

• Regardless of the technology used, the first prepare the walls. If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should start by cleaning them from dust, dirt, old coatings. If cracks are found, they are treated with a sealant, all irregularities are cleaned. Before insulation, you should also remove all communications from the walls, check the wiring. The preparatory stage is completed by applying an antiseptic primer and flame retardants to the surface.
• Installation of vapor barrier film. It is attached to the entire surface with a gap of 10 cm and fixed with construction tape. If financial possibilities allow, it is better to use a more efficient vapor barrier membrane instead of a vapor barrier film. We remind you once again that vapor barrier is only one of the components of maintaining optimal humidity and a favorable microclimate in a wooden house. The second mandatory "component" is the ventilation system.

• Creating a wooden crate, which is fixed to the walls of the house by means of brackets. The crate is assembled from wooden logs, which are pre-treated with flame retardants and antibacterial compounds. The step of the crate corresponds to the width of the insulation, and when using mineral wool products it can even be 1-2 cm narrower. The most common, as already noted, insulation for wooden walls is mineral wool. Its layers are placed between the elements of the crate and fixed with dowels.
• Chipboard installation or drywall sheets as a facing layer. A small gap remains between the drywall sheets and the insulation layer, which provides better thermal insulation and allows the insulation to ventilate. If ecowool is used as a heat insulator, then plasterboard sheets are immediately attached to the crate, and ecowool is already poured into the resulting gap. Sheets of drywall are puttied in several layers with pre-treatment of each layer with fine sandpaper. After applying the finishing layer of putty, you can begin to fix the wall decorative coating - wallpapering, painting, etc.

Today on sale you can find mineral wool boards having different densities in thickness.

The part of the plate that is attached to the wall has a looser structure, the outer surface is more dense and rigid. Such materials are glued to the wall using special mixtures. Due to the high rigidity of the outer side of the insulation, it is possible to do without mounting the crate. The material is covered with glue, reinforcing fiberglass is attached to it, on top of which plaster is applied in several layers, and paint or decorative plaster composition is applied to it.

Wall cladding made of logs or timber looks somewhat different.

• Immediately after the construction of the building, the primary insulation of the interventional gaps is carried out, which is also called caulking. To do this, a twisted interventional insulation is inserted into the gaps using a caulk or spatula. When using synthetic materials, a layer of sealant is applied over them.
• A year later (it is after so much time that the house gives maximum shrinkage) re-caulking is carried out. First of all, the condition of the wooden surface itself is assessed. If chips and cracks are found, they are filled with the same elastic sealant. Next, check the quality of the insulation of the interventional seams. It is better if this is done not only "by eye", but also using a thermal imager.

• If points of heat loss are found, they are re-caulked. If additional insulation of log walls is not provided, then the joints are re-treated with sealant, now for decorative purposes. Modern compositions are characterized by a richness of colors, so the user will be able to choose a mixture to match the logs. Another option to close the joints is to use jute braid, which has an attractive soft golden hue and looks harmonious with most types of wood.
• If further thermal insulation of the walls is expected, then the steps described above are performed (priming, creating a vapor barrier layer, mounting the frame and fixing the insulation, fixing drywall, finishing). Insulation of the ceiling also implies the creation of a crate, under which a waterproofing coating is laid, for example, glassine. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws and special glue, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling. The next step is plasterboard ceiling lining and finishing.

If there is a second floor, the ceiling is insulated. For interfloor overlapping, materials of increased rigidity are required.

If the house has an attic of an unexploited type, then bulk materials (expanded clay, ecowool) can be used to insulate it. For heated attics and mansards, special basalt heaters of increased rigidity are produced. Insulation of maximum rigidity (from 150 kg / m3) is required for a flat roof.

When insulating the floor first of all, it should be leveled, overlapped and with a slight (up to 10 cm) "creep" on the walls of the waterproofing membrane. After that, lay wooden logs in increments of no more than 50 cm. Mineral wool (or expanded polystyrene) is laid between the logs. The insulation layer is closed with a PVC membrane, on top of which the flooring is mounted (usually sheets of chipboard or plywood).

Experts recommend carefully calculating the thickness of the material, since the indicators of its thermal efficiency depend on this. If the insulation layer in the house is insufficient, it will not be possible to achieve the optimum temperature. An excessively thick layer is not only unjustified financial costs, but also an additional load on the supporting structures, as well as a change in the location of the “dew point”.

The latter term denotes the boundary where the moisture leaving the room in the form of vapor turns into a liquid. Ideally, this should occur outside the insulation, however, if its thickness is incorrectly calculated and the installation technology is violated, the “dew point” may be inside the insulation.

Wrong is the insulation of a wooden house from the inside and outside. The surface of the wood is between 2 vapor barrier layers, which disrupts the natural ventilation of the material and leads to the onset of putrefactive processes.

Professionals strongly recommend using external insulation as more efficient and correct for the operation of a wooden house. Insulation from the inside is an extreme measure. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in the warm season, in dry weather, since during this period the walls are as dry as possible. If you plan to insulate a newly built house, then you should wait a year. This is due to the fact that wooden objects shrink.

When installing the crate, make sure that its step corresponds to the dimensions of not only the insulation, but also the drywall sheets. Otherwise, you will have to fill additional rails - an extra load on the frame and an increase in labor intensity. The best option is to select sheets of insulation and drywall of similar dimensions.

Despite the cheapness of foam plastic, as well as its low heat transfer, refuse to insulate wooden walls with this material.

• It has low vapor permeability, which will lead to rotting of the walls, an increase in humidity in the house, the appearance of condensation on the walls and mold on the finishing material.
• It emits styrene, which is hazardous to health, and therefore in some European countries there is a ban on the use of expanded polystyrene for interior decoration.
• It is a combustible material that releases toxins when the temperature rises. When using foam in a wooden structure, you can create a real fire trap.

The sealant used for interventional insulation must be elastic and able to compress and expand during shrinkage and thermal expansion of wood. For indoor use, an acrylic-based composition will be optimal. If you need a stronger sealant, then acrylic with the addition of polyurethane foam is suitable. An important point - such a sealant cannot act as an independent insulation.

If you are going to independently carry out the insulation of a wooden house from the inside, I recommend that you read this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

A few words about the choice of insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation be fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• ecowool.

mineral wool

Mineral wool is the most common insulation.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to the following properties:

• good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
• environmental friendliness;
• good vapor permeability;
• fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
• Sold in the form of mats and rolls, making it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most thermally stable. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher than stone wool and glass wool:

brand	Cost per 1m3
Isoroc Isoruf-V	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it causes irritation on the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is desirable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular polystyrene foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has higher characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

• high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
• thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
• during the manufacturing process, manufacturers add fire retardants to extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the G1 combustibility class (low combustible material). True, this applies only to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
• resistant to moisture, therefore, during installation does not require hydro-vapor barrier;
• does not irritate the skin.

However, penoplex has some disadvantages:

• vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for thermal insulation of the floor, as it is not afraid of moisture;
• high cost - penoplex is today one of the most expensive heat-insulating materials.

Below is the cost for some common grades of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has become increasingly popular in recent years.

Its merits include the following points:

• environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
• vapor permeability;
• thanks to special additives that are present in ecowool, the insulation is fireproof and resistant to biological influences;
• has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
• low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cube

I must say that for the insulation of walls with ecowool, special equipment is required. Therefore, when working independently, it is possible to perform only floor or ceiling insulation with this material.

Here, and all the most common heaters that are used to insulate wooden houses. True, there are still materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to perform insulation on their own, so we will not consider them.

Warming technology

The process of warming a wooden house includes three main stages:

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

• one of the heaters that I talked about above;
• vapor barrier;
• slats and boards - will be needed if there is no subfloor between the lags;
• antiseptic impregnation for wood.

The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:

1. if the floor has already been used, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden flooring;
2. then you need to perform a draft, unless, of course, it is missing. To do this, fasten the cranial bars on the rafters from below and lay the boards on top of them;
3. Further treat all wooden floor elements with an antiseptic to protect them from biological influences;

1. then a vapor barrier is laid over the rafters and the subfloor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
   As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, vapor barrier can be omitted;

1. Next, you need to lay the insulation. If mineral plates or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that there are no gaps between the insulation plates;

1. then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
2. at the end of the work, it is necessary to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.

I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Wall insulation

The next stage is the insulation of the walls from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that it is necessary to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

• insulation, although not significantly, but still takes up useful space in the room. For large houses, this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, the reduction in space can be very noticeable;
• after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely stop heating;
• moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology that will minimize all the negative consequences of this procedure.

So, for wall insulation, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• antiseptic impregnation for wood;
• interventional insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation material;
• finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps:

1. wall surfaces must be impregnated to prevent wood decay, protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

1. if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the intervention gaps by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or other suitable material.

Now we need to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

1. fasten the rails to the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the rails. It should be stretched to form a ventilation gap. Glue the joints of the membrane with adhesive tape;
2. for the ventilation gap to work, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall from below near the base, and from above under the visor.

Now let's start assembling the frame:

1. the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

1. prepared bars must be fixed on the rails. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the rails using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the bars are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
   Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the racks can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

To make the wall even, first install vertical posts (required in level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to set the intermediate racks in the same plane as the extreme bars;

1. Now we are laying the insulation in the frame. In order for the wall insulation in a wooden house to be effective from the inside, try to ensure that there are no gaps between the plates. In addition, place the tiles flush against the ceiling and against the walls.
   If the cracks are nevertheless formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. To fix it, you can use a construction stapler.
   Be sure to overlap the strips of the membrane, and glue the joints with adhesive tape;
2. fasten wooden slats about two centimeters thick over the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the skin and the vapor barrier membrane.
   Keep in mind that the crate should be perpendicular to the plastic or lining.

To ensure good sound insulation in housing, it is necessary to insulate the internal walls with mineral wool, i.e. partitions. The principle of installation of insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually, wooden finishing materials are used for these purposes - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

1. lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
2. the first lining is installed so that the spike is directed towards the corner. To fix it, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face from the side of the spike.

From the side of the groove, the vgonka can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower ridge of the groove. It is even easier and faster to fix with the help of special fasteners - kleimers;

1. the subsequent board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut in width, and docked with the previous one. From the side of the corner, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

1. at the end of the work, wooden corners are mounted on the corners. They will hide the joints of the lining and the hats of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install insulation from the inside.

If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

• slab insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier membrane.

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

1. if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be done. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams with nails or self-tapping screws;
2. then, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
3. further, the space between the beams must be filled with heat-insulating plates. To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
4. after the insulation of the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;

1. then the crate is performed and the ceiling material is mounted. You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with drywall.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside.

Output

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For any questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

An important stage in the construction of modern houses is their thermal insulation. The main goals of insulation are to create a comfortable temperature in the premises and more economical use of energy resources used for heating.

Buildings made of wood and buildings made of stone also need thermal insulation.

According to building codes, thermal insulation should be carried out from the outside. The reason is that the dew point is located on the outside of the room in the insulating material or in the front layer of the supporting structures. With this method of thermal insulation in rooms, condensation will not form on the walls.

But this option is not the only one. Thermal insulation is carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside. In some situations, internal insulation is the only right option. For example, if the owner of the home ownership wants to preserve the external presentability that distinguishes wooden buildings, or the architectural appearance of the house has historical value.

We offer you to learn how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with different types of heat-insulating materials with your own hands.

Causes of heat loss in a wooden house

As a rule, wooden houses are very comfortable. In such buildings it is cool in the warm season and warm in the winter.

The decrease in temperature inside a wooden house is caused by two main factors:

• improper vapor barrier;
• cracks that appeared in the old building due to the drying out of the tree over time.

Is it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside? Of course, and if the house is old - even necessary! In order to perform thermal insulation from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials and follow the technology provided for such a task.

Insulation works for both new and old wooden houses are carried out in stages.

How and how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands? Consider the stages of internal wall insulation and select an environmentally friendly insulation for internal thermal insulation.

Training

All actions related to the construction and improvement of residential buildings must be preceded by calculations - this rule also applies to the insulation of a wooden building.
Calculations make it possible to find out the degree of effectiveness of thermal insulation and find out whether, in principle, it is possible to produce insulation from the inside.

Insulating material always fulfills its purpose, but the location of the dew point plays a decisive role. Under no circumstances should it be placed on the inside of load-bearing structures, especially in insulation material, and the task of calculations is to demonstrate this.

When placing the dew point from the inside, the room will have a fairly comfortable temperature regime, but in winter it is always damp, leading to wetting of heat-insulating materials, wood rotting, and mold formation.

Provided that the dew point does not appear in the interior of the room, even in winter, thermal insulation can be performed from the inside.

But at the same time, the interior space of the living quarters will inevitably have to be sacrificed.

Choosing materials

A number of requirements are imposed on the materials used for internal thermal insulation of wooden houses:

• low heat conductivity;
• resistance to fire;
• strength;
• environmental Safety.

Thermal insulation methods are selected based on the materials used for this purpose.

How to insulate the house from the inside? Currently, several types of insulation for the walls of the house are produced:

Modern heaters have a large number of advantages: lightness, flexibility, excellent thermal insulation parameters.

We close up the joints

Having decided to take up the insulation of a wooden house with your own hands, you need to take into account one important point. The structure of wood shrinks, this process takes several months. In addition to shrinkage, when the heating system is brought into operation in the premises, the tree begins to dry at a high speed. This is reflected in the configuration of logs and timber.

Initially densely spaced wooden elements at the docking points can form large gaps that release heat into the street.

For this reason, the first step in insulating a wooden home should be grouting.

For this, sealants and other materials are used. It is convenient to seal the cracks with a wide chisel.

If the gaps are large, rolled tape tow is used.

At this stage, the main thing is to stop the exit of warm air through the cracks.

Important! Do not forget about the safety of electrical wiring when sealing gaps, especially if it is located on the surface: in this case, be sure to separate it and isolate it from the wall.

Protection of wood from fire and biological factors

Part of the load-bearing structures located from the inside will be covered with an insulating layer for a long time. Given this, wood should be treated with agents that protect it from fire and mold. You can’t save on processing with such compounds, and you need to choose high-quality products in order to provide good protection.

When processing load-bearing structures with agents that have a fire and bioprotective effect, it must be taken into account that wooden fences also need to be processed, since they will also be located in the insulation.

Ventilation

For what reason did the owners of private houses not think much about the ventilation of buildings before? The thing is that earlier ventilation was carried out in a natural way - through loosely spaced windows and cavities in the walls. This is typical for old log houses even now.

The materials used for the construction of modern buildings make it possible to avoid gaps and crevices through which air flows can circulate. But this does not mean at all that there should be no air movement in the rooms at all. Ventilation systems are being designed in modern buildings. Such systems remove recycled air from rooms and provide an influx of fresh air.

Properly executed internal insulation necessarily provides for ventilation. Only in this case the microclimate in the house will be optimal.

The insulation itself, which has a porous type structure, for example, the same mineral wool, also needs ventilation. For this reason, a small distance must necessarily remain between the supporting structure and the heat-insulating material for unhindered air circulation and the removal of excess moisture. In this case, the level of humidity in the entire room will be uniform.

It is not difficult to make such a gap. A wooden rail about 25 mm in size is attached to the supporting structures at an equal distance, and a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it. Thus, a small distance for air movement is formed between the wall and the heat-insulating material, which protects the internal structures and the heat-insulating material from moisture.

On a note! If the walls of the building are made of a log having a cylindrical configuration, then the ventilation gaps are formed naturally. In the event that glued laminated timber was used to build a house, it is recommended to take care of the design of the ventilation gap.

Vapor barrier layer

The use for insulation of such heat-insulating materials as glass wool, mineral wool, polystyrene foam (non-pressed variety) necessarily provides for a vapor barrier device.

It is mounted as follows: a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the crate for ventilation. A stapler is used for fastening.

Important point! When installing the vapor barrier membrane, be sure to stretch the film tightly so that a ventilation gap is formed between the supporting structure and it.

The connection of two sheets of vapor barrier film is overlapped by at least 10 cm and fastened with adhesive tape.

If an extruded variety of expanded polystyrene is used as a heat-insulating material, then there is no need for a vapor barrier layer. Extruded polystyrene foam has waterproofing properties that prevent the penetration of moisture.

Fencing installation

In all options for thermal insulation of the internal load-bearing structures of a log or timber house, with the exception of the use of isoplat, a fence must be installed. Usually, a bar with a square section (50 mm) is used for its design. The distance of the wooden block depends on the width of the insulation material.

When using mineral wool, the step between the location of the bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the heat insulator in order to achieve maximum fit.

When using extruded polystyrene foam, the step is made in accordance with the width of the sheets of material.

Important! Before installation, be sure to treat all wooden blocks with a composition that has fire and bioprotective properties.

The bars are fastened with screws directly to the wooden supporting structures. If there is a crate to form a ventilation gap, the bars are attached to the installed rails. Fasteners are recommended to be inserted into pre-made small holes (a thin drill is used for this) so that the tree does not crack.

In some cases, the fence is made of plasterboard profiles attached to the supporting structures on direct suspensions. This is done only if the lining is made of drywall.

Wooden bars are preferable, as they have a lower heat conductivity compared to metal products.

In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating the floor, wooden logs, to which the finish coating is attached, serve as a fence.

Installing a heat insulator

Insulating material is laid in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then the wall installation should be started from the bottom, and when using rolled material, from the top, moving down.

Sheets of mineral wool are located at a distance, due to which their reliable fastening is achieved. But this material, just like polystyrene, needs additional fasteners with nails (one for each sheet).

The heat insulator in rolls is fixed at the top of the wall with one screw, then the material is unfolded and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.

First, solid sheets are mounted, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.

If the roof is sloping, the ceiling heat insulator unfolds from the bottom in the direction from the bottom up and is fixed with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed onto adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after the heat-insulating material is laid, a cord is pulled between the beams in a zigzag pattern, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.

When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps at the seams are sealed with construction foam. The application of foam requires pre-moistening of the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.

Video about wall insulation from the inside

The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside:

Our regions are characterized by a long cold season. That is why the comfort of living in them largely depends on the quality of heating the house. However, the price of servicing heating appliances is constantly increasing, and people are looking for options to save the accumulated heat for the maximum amount of time. That is why many people insulate the walls of wooden dwellings not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Today we will tell you about doing such work with your own hands.

Advantages and features of warming a wooden house from the inside

Warming a house made of wood is quite hard work that requires certain skills, time and effort. Therefore, before embarking on such work, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons.

Previously, the walls of a wooden house were not insulated; wood-burning stoves provided a comfortable temperature in the house. However, due to the low efficiency of such devices, fuel had to be constantly added. Thus, in addition to causing significant damage to the environment, people risked burning down their house.

Among the disadvantages of warming the house from the inside, professional craftsmen, first of all, distinguish an increase in the level of moisture exposure to wood, as well as a shift in the dew point inside the wooden beams. However, this problem can be neutralized with the help of moisture protective agents.

Why is it considered better to insulate the walls inside the house:

1. By insulating your home not from the outside, but from the inside, you can preserve the original wooden facade of your home. In this case, the interior will not suffer, since the insulation layer will be hidden behind the front trim.
2. Unlike wall insulation from the outside, internal insulation can be carried out without the help of high-rise installation professionals. A tall goat and your patience will be enough here.
3. If the vapor barrier layer is made of a film with low permeability, then, when installed outside, it can disturb the microclimate of the wood and cause it to soak.

Thus, the insulation of a wooden building from the inside has its advantages and disadvantages. After reviewing them, you can determine the relevance of this repair in your case.

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside

How to insulate the walls of the dwelling from the inside - this question worries many owners of suburban dwellings. To do this, you can use a variety of materials. It is important to choose such a heater so that it is safe for health and suits you in terms of price and quality.

There is an interesting way to insulate wooden walls inside the house. With it, tow, twine, a special compound or glue, are applied between the seams of the bars. This option is used when the front finish in the house is not expected.

There is a large amount of insulation suitable for wall decoration. We suggest you familiarize yourself with the most popular options. And decide on their pros and cons.

Wall insulation:

1. Mineral wool is the most environmentally friendly and safe option for insulating a house from the inside. However, this method also has disadvantages, these include: the impossibility of insulating a house without erecting a crate and a good moisture-absorbing ability.
2. Polyfoam is also used as a heater due to its low thermal conductivity and low price. However, such a heater can emit substances hazardous to health and simply burns beautifully.
3. Polyurethane foam is a relatively new way. To use it, you need special equipment and the help of a professional.

For the insulation of the walls of the house, these options are most often chosen. Each of them is attractive in its own way. However, it is best to choose mineral wool.

Before warming the house from the inside, we suggest looking at a few tips that will allow you to do this in the most efficient way. These instructions are based on the experience of professional craftsmen.

A wooden house cannot be insulated in the first year after its construction. This time is enough for the building to settle and take on a constant size.

Wall insulation has some nuances. You will have to spend a little time studying them, but as a reward you will receive a well-insulated building.

Tips for warming your home with your own hands:

1. The walls of the wooden structure, insulated on both sides, can rot and become damp. A well-designed ventilation system will help prevent this problem.
2. Even if it seems to you that the wall freezes through only in one place, all the walls in the house need to be insulated at once.
3. The places behind the batteries must be insulated with foil material. This will allow more heat to enter the room.
4. Leave some space between the insulation and the wall. So the thermal insulation of the walls will not affect their humidity.
5. Before starting insulation work, treat the walls with a moisture-repellent compound. So you can avoid the side effects of internal insulation.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of the building from the inside correctly. Otherwise, you will not only not be able to ensure the preservation of heat, but also provoke its faster loss.

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside

Warming of a building made of wood occurs in several stages. The progress of work with different insulation will look different. Since at the moment mineral wool is considered the most common insulation, we will tell you how to insulate the walls of a house with your own hands.

Stages of warming the walls of the house with your own hands:

1. The first step is to clean the wooden walls from contamination. The old trim layer, if any, is removed. A bare and clean wall is treated with antiseptics.
2. Next, you need to caulk the walls. If this is a new house, then caulking occurs a year after the construction, if they lived in it, then after three. Caulking involves stuffing material, such as jute, into the gap between the logs. The work is done with a thin chisel.
3. Waterproofing is being installed. To do this, a vapor barrier sheet is taken, and applied with a rough side to the logs, after which it is nailed with a construction stapler. The joints between the segments of such a canvas should overlap by 15 cm, or glued with tape.
4. Now it's time to do the crate. To do this, you need to take a wooden beam 5X5 cm, and make a crate out of it, arranging the elements in increments of 50-60 centimeters.
5. Layers of mineral wool are inserted into the resulting crate. They are attached with a construction stapler. After installing mineral wool, it must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.
6. At the last stage, the structure is sewn up with drywall. After that comes the face trim.

According to the same principle, the warming of the year occurs. Of course, we presented a brief scheme for warming the house, but in principle, all the necessary steps can be done using it.

A few decades ago, wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house was not required: in order to keep the heat in the room, it was enough to increase the thickness of the walls. But the use of more material to build a thick wall leads to an increase in financial costs, so the owners are thinking about how to properly and whether it is possible to insulate the house from the inside. Yes, you can, the modern construction market offers many different thermal insulation materials for the internal insulation of wooden houses.

What you need to know about wall insulation

Wood is a material with high thermal insulation properties, but with a decrease in the thickness of the walls, it becomes necessary to insulate. It is not possible to carry out external insulation, as this will spoil the appearance of the wooden structure. Additional heat loss occurs due to poor-quality connection of logs, under the influence of natural shrinkage of the house. Therefore, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside is an urgent problem that modern heat-insulating materials help to solve.

Before proceeding with the choice of insulation and carrying out thermal insulation work, you need to find out two details:

Work on warming the house is best planned for spring or summer. A newly built house is not insulated - you need to wait a year for the building to shrink. Otherwise, the work will be useless: after shrinkage, cracks and gaps between the logs will reappear, additional work will have to be done.

The choice of insulation

Not only the heat in the house, but also the health of the residents depends on the quality of the insulation.. The following requirements are imposed on the materials that are used to insulate the walls of a wooden house:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Fire safety.
• Mechanical strength.
• Ecological cleanliness, safety for human health.

Many modern materials with excellent thermal insulation properties have been created. The following types of heaters are used:

Proper organization of work and a thoughtful approach are the lion's share of success in this difficult task. The following will describe the main stages in the insulation of the room. Preparatory stage

Before starting insulation work you need to prepare the walls. The first operation is to check and seal the joints. To do this, use synthetic sealants, jute fiber, tow. Preparing the walls for applying polyurethane foam includes cleaning the surface from dirt, old paint, grease stains. After filling the joints, they proceed to the next stage - the treatment of wood with fire-retardant compounds.

Treatment with compounds that prevent fire and mold infection is very important, because the wood after thermal insulation will be hidden from free access for many years; the condition and service life of a wooden building depends on the quality of processing. Not only wooden walls, but also enclosing structures are treated with fire-retardant compounds, even if they are made of other materials.

Ventilation device

When carrying out thermal insulation work remember to ventilate: without it it is impossible to achieve the correct microclimate in the room. Some heaters have low air conductivity, which negatively affects indoor air quality. In order for the air to circulate properly, ventilation gaps are arranged - a small gap is left between the wall and the heat-insulating material. In this gap, free air circulation occurs, due to which the normal humidity of the insulation and walls is maintained.

Materials such as basalt wool, non-pressed polystyrene, glass wool require an additional vapor barrier device. To do this, use a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the ventilation crate.

All thermal insulation materials require construction of enclosing structures- without them it is impossible to fix the insulation on the wall. To do this, use wooden bars, which are installed at a distance from each other, equal to the width of the insulation. In order for the material to adhere more closely to the fence, the distance between the bars is made 1 cm smaller than the desired size. After laying the insulation between the fencing bars, it is additionally fixed with cords or dowels.

After mounting on the wall, insulation with high porosity requires additional waterproofing. For this, waterproofing films with vapor-permeable membranes are used, thanks to which the humidity of the insulation will always be equal to the humidity of the air in the room. Drywall, wooden lining, plywood are used as a finishing coating for thermal insulation.

The technology of warming a wooden house from the inside is not difficult, does not require professional skills from the owners. You can perform the thermal insulation of the walls yourself, you just need study the technology of work and purchase high-quality materials.