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The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if a major renovation or construction is started. Manufactured products are not affordable for everyone - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.
Design - main units, their purpose
A stationary circular saw with your own hands is created with advancement in several possible directions:
- adapting existing hand tools using a motor and a circular saw for new possibilities;
- improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
- assembly from individual parts, mainly manufactured in-house.
A stationary circular machine includes several main units: a table, a shaft, a motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.
The table is used for fixing woodworking machinery. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high power motor. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable workload. The surface is made perfectly flat; protection shields are required over the rotating parts.
For a homemade circular, the engine from a washing machine is not bad. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are only designed for short-term operation. They have very high speed, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the farm does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors so that it works from 220 V.
The most critical unit is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or grind from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setting, then, assembled with the working bodies, centering is checked. Even a minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which work is unacceptable. There are seats on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.
Basic parameters - calculation of power, rpm, transmission
The characteristics of the saw blade, the motor and the maximum thickness of the lumber that can be cut are interrelated. On the purchased circular disc, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the motor to the shaft should be less. The motor power affects the maximum permissible diameter of the serrated saw. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise it will be difficult to cut. It is believed that for cutting materials with a thickness of 100 mm, a motor of at least 1 kW of power is needed.
The transmission is done only by V-belt - when foreign objects get under the saw, material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: the engine speed and the maximum allowable saw blade speed. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the motor, and a pulley with a smaller diameter is installed on the circular shaft in order to increase the speed.
The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, the smaller the diameter of its pulley is from the diameter of the pulley on the engine.
Woodworking machine - capital product for the home
For work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. A sufficiently powerful electric motor is required, a rigid table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, you can plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required to connect to 220V.
1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5,7 - a desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disc; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - driving pulley; 17 - switch.
The working table has dimensions of 700 × 300 mm. In the drawing, we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. The length and width can be increased, the height can be increased up to 1200 mm. The rest of the dimensions are adjusted to fit them, but the design features remain unchanged.
First, we make the frame of the bed from steel corners of 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make one more same lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we strap them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the engine deck retaining bolts. Two studs are welded to the rear side of the platform, protruding into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we stop the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.
To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, you need eight racks - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with the grooves located in the mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. Drill holes in the middle of each of them, weld nuts. The threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.
At the end, they abut against the racks welded to the side bars assembled from corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves, is attached to the side bars with countersunk head bolts. The adjusting mechanism works like this:
- release the nuts on the racks;
- turn the screw that presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
- tighten the stud nuts;
- we carry out a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.
The design can be simplified by not installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble a table not from two halves, but solid, you only need four stands for the lifting mechanism.
Hand-held circular saw - converting to stationary
It is easy to make a stationary saw from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first step is to need a table. Finnish plywood will serve as a convenient material, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces slide well on the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, only it needs to be painted, and it is better to cover it with sheet steel or textolite.
You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. A large diameter disc will be required so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the countertop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric plane and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.
Using the drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for the circular saw that will expand its capabilities.
We mark a rectangle of the required size on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole, we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to the circular saw specified in the passport.
We make a frame (drawers) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards in a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. Screw the screws into the boards through the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the side bars of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.
We make a limiting bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the tsarga. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.
Some moments of the execution of self-made devices
No matter how well the circular is made, individual mistakes can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This applies, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The usual installation is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a DIY device with constant use, it is best to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect it from dust, swarf.
On the working surface, we apply a scale with a step of a centimeter. This will make woodwork much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disc, and in vain - treatment for chips in the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.
When working with different materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. A self-made design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.
Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without 380 V. You will need paper or oil-paper type capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V.
The capacity of the capacitors is calculated based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for the working capacitor Cp. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as much. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The launch is simple: SQ turns on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can saw.
After sawing for some time with a hand-held circular saw (parquet flooring), I realized its shortcomings - it is difficult and dangerous to cut off a small part, for example, a piece of chipboard measuring 10x10 cm, etc.
And also when sawing boards lengthwise - the hand is very tired to hold the saw, this is the most comfortable saw.
Then I decided to make a table for a circular saw with my own hands, only portable, so that I could put it on any chair or table and put it on the shelf when not needed, and also left the possibility of quickly turning it back into a manual circular saw - without removing any protections and etc.
Circular table materials
For the manufacture of a circular table, I used sheet steel 3 mm, cut off two squares measuring 45x50 cm. I marked a window for a saw blade with a protection measuring 26x200 mm and cut it out with a grinder, trimming the edges with a file.
I drilled 4 holes with a diameter of 6 mm at the base of the circular saw to attach the saw to the table.
Installing and securing the saw
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Then I installed the saw on a sheet with a window, precisely centered it and placed the holes for attaching the saw pins. Studs used m6. I drilled 5 mm holes for the saw studs and cut the M6 thread. The pins were twisted into the sheet so that 1 mm remained to the edge of the sheet from the front side, then they were welded from the front side, just 1 mm was filled with liquid metal. This method of fastening proved to be quite durable.
Next, I marked 4 holes in each sheet for the location of the M10 racks, for them I did not cut the threads, because the thread pitch is large for M10 and in the metal thickness of only 3 mm they will not hold well, but nothing needs to be attached to these pins, so they were simply welded on the bottom and top sides, the top was welded flush with the metal surface. Studs were welded only to the top sheet of metal.
The studs are attached to the bottom sheet of metal with nuts on both sides. This is done so that you can easily disassemble the structure and quickly remove the saw.
The ruler was made from a corner of 32 mm and two pieces of steel strip 40 mm wide.
In the strip, it was necessary to cut grooves for the M8 lambs. I made the grooves like this - I drilled holes along the edges of the groove and cut out the groove with a grinder, and then with my favorite file 🙂
The strips were welded to the corner.
Then I checked everything to make sure everything fit well, took the structure apart and painted it.
I ended up with a great circular saw table.
Benefits of a table circular saw
- convenient to work, unlike a hand saw;
- the saw can be installed on a chair, on the floor, on a table, and it also does not take up much space, it can be removed on a shelf in the garage;
- the ruler allows you to cut wider workpieces up to 30 cm than the native ruler by 18 cm; if you wish, you can make the ruler and table even larger;
- the saw with a slight movement of the hand and the wrench turns ... back into a hand circular;
- the saw still has protection on the disk, which ordinary table circulars usually do not have.
Disadvantages of table saw
- the switch on the saw is not fixed, so you either need to keep it pressed, or insert a wooden wedge into the switch (I temporarily do this), which is not good for safety. But you can simply replace the switch on the saw, or equip the table with an outlet with a switch.
I did not find any more shortcomings of my circular saw table.
Photo of table circular saw:
For any home craftsman, having your own stationary sawing machine saves time and saves your work.
You can buy a ready-made stationary circular. The cost of small machines starts at 9,000 rubles, more or less decent stationary saws are sold in the price range from 30 to 100 thousand.
Despite the seeming complexity of the design, any master with basic locksmith skills can make a homemade circular saw. Moreover, during the design process, it is possible to add functions that are not provided by the manufacturer.
What is a circular saw for?
Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to cut firewood for the winter, or do basic carpentry work like making a fence, a sturdy table with a slot for a saw blade is enough. These options are popular in rural areas.
Circular for working with logs
Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.
In some of these "models" there is a shaft for securing the knives of a planer or jointer. As a rule, a frame is cooked from a corner or channel, an electric motor from the decommissioned factory ventilation is fixed on it, and with the help of a pulley, the torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe in detail the manufacturing technology of such a machine.
It's another matter if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, you need a coordinate table with guides that are fixed at different angles.
Since such a stationary saw can handle small workpieces, the operator's safety must be taken care of. It is desirable to provide for the regulation of the rotation speed and the possibility of easy replacement of discs with different diameters.
Be sure to install a protective cover over the disc, and cover the rotating parts of the drive with covers. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the "stop" button is located in an accessible place and is made large.
Don't miss in an accident
How to make a circular, striking a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Consider the main components that make up a home circular saw. You can make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.
The frame can be made from a metal corner (channel) purchased from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact the warehouse of rolled metal products. It is permissible to make the legs from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.
A good option for a homemade metal roll bed
IMPORTANT! The use of bolted connections is prohibited, as vibration will cause the fastener to loosen.
It is necessary to use electric welding. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the bed (on which the table will rest) and the podium for the electric motor are made from a corner with a side of at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement, they must be with steel rims and have locks. The higher the mass of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.