Fence made of torn brick and corrugated board. How to build a fence from a professional sheet with brick pillars with your own hands? The choice of bricks and corrugated board

A fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars is highly durable and reliably protects the site from the penetration of intruders and animals, and brick pillars give such a fence a very rich and aesthetic look. In the construction of fences for summer cottages, corrugated board with a colored polymer coating (polyester) is usually used. It provides excellent corrosion resistance of the installed fencing, attractive appearance and color schemes according to the general design concept of the house and site. The soil and polymer coating are applied to the corrugated board for the fence by the manufacturer. The brick pillars themselves can be laid out from facing bricks of various colors and textures, clinker and ordinary building bricks. Further, such a pillar can be covered with decorative plaster or overlaid with decorative stone.

Advantages of a corrugated fence
with brick pillars

  • Reliability A profiled sheet fence with brick pillars is a reliable barrier against thieves, excessive noise and prying eyes, as well as the negative impact of the external environment.
  • Practicality Profile sheets have a polymer coating that protects the sheet from corrosion, is easily cleaned from dust and dirt, and is also easily replaced in case of damage.
  • Durability Corrugated fences with brick pillars have excellent resistance to corrosion and other external influences.
  • Aesthetics Combination of profile sheets with natural brick or stone pillars gives the fence a very rich and aesthetic appearance, visually ennobling the area.

Materials and components for the construction of corrugated fences with brick pillars

  • Types of brick
  • Profile views
  • Color palette
  • Pillar decor
  • Caps


The most common type of corrugated board for the fence. It has an optimal combination of price and quality. Due to the symmetry of the waves, an imitation of a picket fence is created. To ensure the normal rigidity of the fence, it is recommended to use it in a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm.


Professional sheet S-20

A beautiful view of corrugated board for the fence. It has a significantly higher sectional rigidity. It is allowed to use in a thickness of 0.35-0.5 mm, especially when adding an additional log.


Professional sheet HC-8

The most rigid corrugated board for the fence. When using such a profile, you can increase the spans between the pillars, reduce the number of lags. Such a profiled sheet can be placed horizontally without any crossbars at all. Such corrugated board can be used in a thickness of 0.32-0.35 mm, especially when using an additional log.

face brick

Clinker brick


The cost of a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars

The procedure for installing a fence made of corrugated board on brick pillars

  • 01 markup
    site

    When marking the site, we use a level, tape measure, pegs and string. At this stage of the construction of the fence, pegs are placed at the border of the site, under the entrance group, as well as marks for the levels of the foundation and brick pillars with a difference in the relief of the site.

  • 02 Arrangement
    foundation

    At this stage, we dig a trench for the future strip foundation and separately make a foundation for each brick pillar. Then we install the formwork from laminated plywood, add a sand cushion, lay the frame from the reinforcement and fill everything with concrete of the M200-M300 grade, followed by vibrotamping.

  • 03 masonry brick
    pillars

    At this stage, brick pillars are laid. The brick is laid out around a metal pillar 1.5 bricks wide. Thus, the pillar is obtained with a size of 380x380 mm. When laying in a pole, metal embedded elements from the corner are laid in advance. The internal cavity is filled with cement mortar. After laying, the masonry joints are grouted to seal and give the joints a beautiful look.

  • 04 Installation of decorative elements

    The tops of the brick pillars are crowned with decorative caps made of sheet metal in the same color as the corrugated board, or cast from concrete or alabaster. On the surface of the foundation, a metal tint of the same color as the corrugated board is installed.

  • 05 Installation of metal frame and sheets of corrugated board

    At this stage, horizontal crossbars are welded to the brick pillars, to the previously laid out mortgages. Welded seams are cleaned and treated with a primer or paint, which provides anti-corrosion protection for the fence. Sheets of corrugated board are attached to the logs with an overlap on one wave by means of self-tapping screws for metal in every second wave.

  • 06 Gate installation
    and gates

    After installing the corrugated board, proceed to the installation of gates and gates. To do this, racks with hinges, as well as gate porches, are welded to the protruding embedded elements of brick pillars. The frames of gates and wickets must fit into the opening very accurately, with a gap of no more than 10 mm. Gates and gates are equipped with all necessary locking fittings.




Why choose our company

  • High quality Thanks to our own production, the use of high-quality materials and professional equipment, we always achieve high quality.
  • 2-year warranty Thanks to our own production, the use of high-quality materials and professional equipment, we always achieve high quality.
  • Competitive prices Since we work closely with domestic suppliers who provide us with discounts, we are able to maintain affordable prices for wooden fences.
  • Stable budget After we draw up a budget plan and agree it with you, the final amount will be approved. This means that no additional costs will be added to the estimate.
  • Delivery of materials Our teams are fully staffed. We will cover all shipping costs for materials to your site. You just have to call and order the installation of the fence.
  • Convenient payment options Our company provides various payment options. You can pay us directly at the site or through any office of the Bank of Moscow using a bank card.
  • Departure of the manager We can organize the departure of the brigade to your site at a convenient time for you. At the site you can sign a contract, after which our specialists will begin to fulfill the order.
  • We do thoughtfully and responsibly.
    Quickly, yet carefully
    smooth, nice.

By ordering a corrugated fence with brick pillars, you will receive

When ordering the construction and installation of a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars in our company, you will receive a warranty certificate that will confirm not only the quality of the work performed, but also our legal responsibility. Therefore, we will provide you with post-warranty maintenance of the installed fence for two years.

Order the construction of a fence from corrugated board with a 2-year warranty

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Today, there are many proposals on the building envelope market that use a variety of materials (wood, metal, concrete, PVC), but perhaps the most solid of them is a brick fence.

With all its advantages, this type of fencing has the only drawback - the high price. Therefore, experts recommend combining brick with less expensive materials. The best example of such an alliance is a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars. Detailed instructions with photos and videos on the installation of such a fence with your own hands are presented in this article.

Where to begin

The construction of a fence from corrugated board with brick pillars with your own hands should begin with the preparation of a project. At this stage, it is important to take into account the location of the gates and entrance gates, as well as technological recommendations:

  • The step between spans should be 2.5-3m;
  • The fence must be placed strictly along the perimeter of the site;
  • Control the level of soil slope, if necessary, divide the fence into segments according to height differences.

Construction stages

I. Marking the territory for the future fence.

Before you start, it's important to check the site plan and then stake out the stakes around the perimeter. The cord is stretched tightly between the marks, the perpendicularity is checked (using the diagonal method), and then, using the level, the absolute “0” of the structure being erected is found.

II. Production of metal-concrete structures.

According to the stretched and leveled laces, depressions are formed in the ground. The recommended depth of concreted pits for pillars should exceed 1 m, which in the cold season should prevent deformation of the building envelope (usually they are buried to a depth of soil freezing of 1.5 m).

If you want to strengthen the fence or add some constructive originality, you can place a strip foundation between the pillars (to a depth of 50 cm). In this case, you should take care of a solid formwork. For its walls, you can use both wood and OSB with a thickness of more than 100mm. For fastening the formwork, use a transverse beam, which is dug into the ground from one end, and nailed to the shield itself from the other.

At the next stage, you need to take care of the strapping and mounting the reinforcing frame into the formwork. For the manufacture of this frame, fiberglass reinforcement (diameter 10mm) and knitting wire are best suited. We form the frame of the parallelepiped according to the dimensions of the recess.

Next, metal stiffeners are installed at the base of future pillars. After that, fasteners are fixed between them, creating a frame of the fence. We complete these works by directly pouring a cement solution (grade not lower than M200) into the existing recesses.

III. Brick laying for fence posts.

To carry out these works, you can use any moisture-resistant brick, but ideally, you should pick up beautiful decorative samples. Each layer of brick is recommended to be tied with a metal mesh, applying a uniform layer of mortar on top. Be sure to use the level! Either a cement or metal cap should be installed on the top of the support post.

IV. Fastening sheets of metal profile to the frame of the fence.

On the fasteners protruding between the support posts (logs from a profile pipe 40x20 mm), sheets of corrugated board are mounted using galvanized self-tapping screws 5x30 mm or steel rivets 3.2x10 mm.

Each owner of his own house wants to fence off his territory from curious neighbors and animals entering the site. To do this, a reliable fence is installed around the perimeter of the site.

Today, there are many options for fencing the site, but recently, a fence made of corrugated board with brick columns has become more common. Such a fence looks solid and very attractive, unlike other types of fences. To build such a fence is not particularly difficult, while the cash costs for its installation are small.

The construction of a fence made of profiled sheets with brick posts is practically no different from the construction of a fence made of corrugated board with metal pipe posts, however, there are still some nuances. First of all, the owner must clearly represent the final version of the fence, calculate its size.

You will also need to prepare the necessary tools for work and purchase building materials.

The construction of such a fence includes the following steps:

  • preparatory work;
  • determining the size of the fence;
  • building a foundation;
  • frame installation;
  • laying brick pillars;
  • fixing the corrugated board to the frame.

Determining the size of the future fence

First of all, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the fence made of corrugated board with brick columns. First, the corners of the future fence are marked with pegs and a nylon thread is pulled between them. The length of the perimeter of one side of the site is divided into equal segments. Each marked place is indicated by a peg. In the future, support posts will be installed in the marked places.

Important! Brick columns should not be too wide, so their width on the side and front side is only 1.5 bricks. If there is a sufficient amount of material, laying can be done in two bricks.

The width of the strip foundation should be 20-25 cm. The foundation will protect the territory from penetration by digging under the animal fence. Usually the height of the base is 10-25 cm. In some cases, sidewalk curbs are used instead of building a foundation. But it all depends on the preferences of the owner.

Foundation construction

For the construction of a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars, a strip foundation is used, the manufacture of which consists of the following steps:

  • trench preparation;
  • formwork installation;
  • foundation pouring.

trench preparation

As a general rule, the depth of the trench should be greater than the depth of soil freezing. As a rule, a trench is dug with a depth of 40 -80 cm, depending on the climatic conditions of the area. In the places marked with pegs, holes are dug or drilled under the poles for the installation of the pipe. The bottom of the wells is compacted with sand and the base of the column is inserted - a round or square pipe. Depending on the height of the fence, choose the appropriate length of the pipe.

In the process of excavation, a sufficient amount of soil is formed. The upper - fertile layer can be left on the site, and the rest of the sand is leveled along the fence or taken out of the site.

Important! When installing support poles, it is necessary to ensure that they are installed strictly vertically. You can check this with a building level.

Formwork installation

The height of the formwork is chosen at the discretion of the owner, however, it is not advisable to make it higher than the ground level by more than 25 cm. The formwork is erected from semi-edged building boards. If there is a finished formwork - install it. To prevent the boards from bending under the weight of concrete, they are additionally fastened with wooden lintels or pegs are driven into the ground.

After the formwork is installed, it is reinforced. For this, reinforcing bars are used, the diameter of which is 1 cm. The reinforcing bars are connected to each other with knitting wire, which will increase the strength of the base being built. Sometimes the reinforcement cage is assembled from the outside and then lowered into the formwork.

Metal support pillars are needed to reinforce brick pillars. The optimal distance between the posts is 2 meters. So that in the process of pouring the foundation the pipes do not squint, they must be carefully fixed in the well. To check the installation level of the pillars, a nylon thread is also pulled in the middle and from above, by analogy with the bottom one (which determines the height of the foundation). During pouring of concrete, the verticality of the pillars is constantly monitored.

As a rule, the height of the fence is from 1.5 meters. Therefore, metal pipes for poles, taking into account their deepening, should have a length of 1.9 meters or more.

Formwork pouring

To prepare the cement mortar, crushed stone, sand, water and cement are used, preferably grade M 400. In some cases, a plasticizing additive is added to the solution to increase frost resistance. The ratio of sand and cement in the solution can be 1 to 3 or 1 to 4. It all depends on the brand of cement. The solution is kneaded in a concrete mixer or manually until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Household liquid soap (plasticizer) is mixed with water. Only after the foam has settled can it be added to the solution.

The prepared solution is poured into the formwork, carefully leveled with a trowel and leveled at the level of the stretched nylon thread. The drying time of the foundation depends on weather conditions and is at least 3 days. Complete hardening of concrete occurs a week after pouring.

Frame construction

The stability of the future fence determines the quality of the frame. Its construction is started no earlier than 3 days after the foundation is poured. The construction of the frame can be carried out both before the laying of brick columns, and after the construction.

The construction of the frame before the erection of brick pillars is carried out with a profile pipe 20x40. The pipes are welded to the installed metal posts by welding. Horizontal pipes are welded at a distance of 30 cm from the top of the column and at a distance of 15 cm from the foundation surface. The fabricated frame is recommended to be coated with alkyd paint, which will prevent metal corrosion.

In the second case, it is necessary to weld embedded metal plates to the installed pipes at a distance of 30 cm from the surface of the formwork and the top of the pipe, which are brought out of the brickwork. In other words, mortgages should protrude from the brickwork. After laying the pillars, crossbars from a profile pipe are welded to the protruding mortgages by welding.

Brick pillar laying

Facing bricks are used for lining the installed metal supports. Bricklaying is carried out on a cement mortar with a ratio of cement and sand of 1 to 3. You can also add liquid soap to the mortar, which will improve its plasticity.

Brick laying is carried out around the installed metal pole. The gap formed between the pillar and the brickwork is filled with mortar. To reinforce the masonry, reinforcement of each two rows with a mesh of 50x50x4 mm is allowed.

Advice! It is advisable to lay the pillars in turn: first, lay the first pillar to a height of 50-60 cm, then the next one. This will allow you to withstand the time for shrinkage of the brickwork.

In places where profile pipes interfere with masonry, the brick should be carefully cut with a grinder, and then fitted under the pipe, carefully sealing all the cracks with cement mortar. To give the brick pillars a finished look, special ready-made caps are installed on top or I make them myself from galvanized steel.

Caps purchased at a hardware store are installed on the mortar, and those made of galvanized steel are fastened with dowels to the last brick row. Such caps can be painted to match the corrugated board to give them beauty.

Fastening sheets of corrugated board

The final stage in the construction of a fence with brick columns is the fastening of sheets of corrugated board to the frame. For this, galvanized roofing screws or special rivet nails are used.

Fastening, as a rule, is made in each wave adjacent to the crossbar. To do this, a hole is drilled with a drill in the profiled sheet and cross member, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is pressed with a rivet gun.

Sheets are laid one on one with a slight overlap.

When the last sheet of corrugated board is fixed on the frame, the work is completed. Thus, installing a corrugated fence with brick posts is not so difficult if you follow the steps of its construction.

Is it possible to build a strong and powerful fence from corrugated board, while maintaining the cheapness and speed of production?

Our answer is you can, if you make a fence with brick posts, combining the advantages of an expensive brick fence with a budget option on a steel frame. In the example below, you will learn how to make the basis for a facing brick fence and fill its openings with inexpensive, high-quality corrugated board. Such a fence will be strong, but light, cheap, but quite solid and beautiful.

Choosing a fence design

The first step in the construction of a fence is the drafting of its design and the choice of design. It is necessary to decide where the corrugated fence will pass, determine its thickness and choose the level of the foundation. To start drawing up a project, you need to install pegs at the points where the corners of the fence are located and pull a nylon thread over them. Now, with a construction tape measure, you need to take measurements of the sides and draw up a plan for the design of the fence.

Drawing from the fence project. 1 - brick pillars. 2. Foundation (reinforced concrete). 3. Profile pipes. 4. Steel pipes.

In this example, the corrugated fence will be narrow enough to save some space next to the driveway. For this, the appropriate design of brick pillars is selected (see figure). They have a front side width of one and a half bricks, and a side side of one brick, or 25 cm. To reinforce the supporting pillars (a), a profiled pipe 40x40x2 mm is laid in them. The construction of such columns is carried out with reinforcement and bandaging of even rows of masonry with a galvanized mesh with a section of 25x25x1 mm. The poles intended for fastening the gate and the gate (b) are additionally reinforced with steel pipes 88x2.8 mm. In this example, bricks with one and two beveled corners are used.

We draw up a foundation project

A reinforced concrete foundation will be the best foundation for brick columns. A corrugated fence with a monolithic strip foundation will look solid, and the foundation itself will reliably protect the site from street animals and rainwater flows. The width of the foundation in our example is equal to the width of the brick pillars.

If there is a large elevation difference on the site, it is better to break the foundation with steps

In our example, the site had large height differences (more than 0.5 m per 10 m of length). When building a single-level foundation strip, we would face a serious overspending of concrete. In addition, when installing the gate, the level of the foundation can be quite high, i.e. there will be a gap between the ground and the gate. To avoid these difficulties, the foundation is divided into several sections with different levels. The height of the foundation above ground level does not fall below 10 cm, so that when it rains, dirt does not collect on the upper plane of the foundation.

You can make a foundation tape with a single thickness (in the figure on the left) or with a different one - full under the posts and narrow under the corrugated board (in the figure on the right). A foundation with different thicknesses allows you to reduce earthworks and reduce concrete consumption, but in this case it is more difficult to assemble the formwork. Since in our case the thickness of the tape is small (25 cm), we chose the option with a foundation of the same thickness.

The foundation tape can be of different thickness - this allows you to save on earthworks and concreting

In the above example, the foundation under the brick pillars was laid to a depth of soil freezing - 1 m. This made it possible to guarantee the stability and immobility of the foundation, and therefore the reliable functioning of the gates attached to steel pipes in the pillars. In less critical places (under the steel posts to which the corrugated board is attached), the depth of the foundation was 0.5 m. This made it possible to save on work and concrete.

Since the depth of the foundation sections for the fence made of corrugated board was different, they were not connected into a single structure.

First of all, this is due to the fact that the buoyant forces of the soil will not equally affect the foundation located at different depths. If such sections are connected into a single structure, the less buried sections of the foundation will take on a large load and simply deform the remaining sections, destroying the structure. Such deformations are especially dangerous for the part of the tape on which the gate posts are located, as this will lead to a disruption in their functioning.

This is how the foundation tapes lying at different levels are separated

To effectively counteract the heaving of the soil, the force of which tends to push the foundation out of the soil, it is made expanding towards the bottom.

We carry out earthworks

During earthworks, a problem may arise with the removal of open soil, because during its development it turns out to be more than the estimated volume, since the loosened soil takes up about 1.5 times more space than the compacted one. It is not always possible to place land near or inside the site, and it has to be removed. For export, it is poured into 40-50 kg in polypropylene bags, while per 1 cubic meter. m. about 30 bags are required.

In order to save on the removal of soil, its upper layer was poured separately. Then it will come in handy on the farm or neighbors can pick it up.

The volume of the selected soil was about 3 cubic meters. m., therefore, given the small space for maneuvering, digging trenches with an excavator was impractical. Estimated prices for land works are given in table 1

Table 1. Estimated cost of earthworks carried out during the construction of the fence
Method of excavation Price
Excavator with a capacity of 20 cubic meters / hour 700 rub/hour, plus one hour delivery (minimum order five hours)
Manually on the ground without stones 500 rub/cu. m.
Manually on the ground without stones with packaging in bags 620 rub/cu. m.
Manually, rocky ground above from 750 rub/cu. m.

For dense soils, shovels with an angular bayonet are not used.

To perform land work manually needed:

  • rock shovel (subspecies of the shovel);
  • bayonet shovel.

It should be remembered that a flat bayonet shovel should be used, since if the bayonet is at an angle, it is much more difficult to dig with it. Two workers coped with digging a trench for 4 kum. m. for five hours with several breaks. The ground was without stones.

We build formwork

As soon as the trenches are open, you can begin to arrange the formwork. It is collected to the height of the foundation base and 20 cm below the ground. For formwork, a conventional semi-edged board is usually used.

The formwork is assembled on wood screws, having previously drilled holes with an electric drill. Since the concrete will exert significant pressure, the boards should be additionally secured with brick supports and wooden lintels. It should be borne in mind that straightening the boards after pouring the foundation with concrete will no longer work. In addition, the panels should be assembled in a trench, and they are assembled from the top board, installed along the thread marking the upper level of the foundation.

In order for the fence made of corrugated board to be durable, the foundation for it is reinforced with reinforcement rods (10 mm). Vertical rods are installed at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, and for horizontal reinforcement four rods are installed: two 10 cm from the base of the foundation and two 5 cm from the upper surface of the fill. To protect the reinforcement from corrosion, it must be located in concrete at a depth of at least 3 cm.

It is convenient to assemble the reinforcing cage on the ground, and already assembled, place it in the formwork. The reinforcement is assembled using a knitting wire with a diameter of 1 mm. The joints of the longitudinal bars of the reinforcement are overlapped (about 20 cm).

Before concreting the foundation, the pillars should be reinforced with corners

After assembling the reinforcing cage and formwork, pipes or corners are inserted into the latter to reinforce the brick pillars (see figure). They are leveled and fixed with boards. This is a simple operation and one person can easily handle it.

To save money, you can not arrange a foundation in those areas where the corrugated board will be attached to steel pipes, i.e. without brick pillars. In this case, the pipes are concreted into pits with a depth of about 60 cm and a size of 50x50 cm. Before pouring the concrete, the pipes are leveled and fixed with wire to the spacers so that distortions do not occur during concreting.

We do concrete work

Concrete is best mixed with a concrete mixer. In order not to carry it to the place of pouring, the concrete mixer should be placed in front of the formwork. Here is an approximate sequence of work when mixing concrete:

  • set the concrete mixer at an angle of 35-45 degrees, pour crushed stone into it. It will help remove the remnants of concrete from the past batch and will not allow sand and cement to stick to the walls of the concrete mixer;
  • pour concrete additive and half of the water into the concrete mixer;
  • after mixing the crushed stone and water, pour half the sand;
  • mix the mixture for half a minute, then set the concrete mixer at an angle of 60 degrees (this will prevent sand and cement from sticking to wet walls), pour cement and the remaining half of the sand;
  • lower the concrete mixer to 35-45 degrees and add the remaining water. If after two minutes of operation of the concrete mixer no unmixed sand is visible, unload the concrete mixer.

It is advisable to load the concrete mixer at half the volume, since a large load lengthens the time for high-quality concrete preparation.

The concrete mixer must be placed next to the formwork, the productivity of concrete work increases

The composition of the concrete that we used for the foundation (in volume fractions):

  • 1 - cement (PC-400);
  • 6 - crushed stone;
  • 3 - sand;
  • 0.7 - water
  • 0.1 percent of the mass of cement is a plasticizing additive.

For the production of more frost-resistant concrete, as well as for more convenient laying, we used a plasticizing additive - liquid household soap (10 ml for each bucket of cement).

If you don't have a concrete mixer, concrete can also be prepared by hand. It is done like this:

  • a container of about 100 liters is taken (in the absence of a steel sheet of at least 1.5x1.5 m);
  • 1 container (bucket) of cement and 3 containers of sand are poured into the container, which are mixed with a garden rake;
  • 10 ml of liquid soap and water are poured into the bucket almost to the top. It is important that the soap forms a rich lather. The more it is, the better the concrete is plasticized, the easier it will be to knead and lay;
  • water is mixed with cement and sand;
  • 6 containers of crushed stone are poured onto the resulting solution, after which the mixture is mixed.

It takes about 30 minutes to mix 100 liters of concrete. Concrete mixed in this way is about 20% less durable than that obtained in a concrete mixer due to more water (if less water is poured, manual mixing is very difficult). However, for concreting our foundation for a fence made of corrugated board, this quality of concrete is enough.

After pouring, exposed concrete should be covered with plastic wrap to prevent the surface from drying out too quickly. In warm weather (about 25 degrees), stripping should be done in a week.

We assemble the steel frame of the fence

Before welding the fence frame, profile pipes are installed according to the level

If the concrete has stood in the formwork for two days, you can start assembling the frame. Assembly is carried out using arc welding from profile pipes 20x40x2 mm.

The frame for a corrugated fence can be assembled as follows:

  • cut profile pipes into sections of the desired length;
  • apply pipe attachment marks to vertical posts (30 cm from the edge of the fence);
  • one by one, attach the pipes to the supports and grab them by welding on one side in the area of ​​​​the marks;
  • check the position of the pipe using a level;
  • make a weld.

The frame on which the corrugated fence is mounted is more convenient to assemble together. For welding, a welding inverter with a maximum power of 6.2 kW is used. If a circuit breaker trips during welding (usually switches larger than 15 A are not installed in a private house), a switch designed for high power should be installed during welding.

On a fence section about 15 m long, welding work lasted about two hours.

After welding, the steel frame must be painted, for example, with alkyd enamel. If the metal has not yet become covered with a dense layer of rust, you can not use rust converters before painting.

We build brick pillars

In the construction of columns, facing bricks are used. For work, you can attract a bricklayer-facing with experience.

Here is an approximate order of work for further construction work:

  • purchase and delivery of bricks;
  • ordering corrugated board (to order, corrugated board is made in a week);
  • bricklaying (for the fence in question, this is four days);
  • delivery and installation of corrugated sheets.

Bricklaying is carried out on a cement-sand mortar (1 to 3) with the addition of liquid soap. During the working day, the master raises the columns to a height of 0.5 (in turn). During the laying process, the gap between the bricks and the steel column is filled with mortar. Additional reinforcement to the masonry is given by reinforcing with a steel mesh 50x50x4 mm.

The last stage of decorative design is the installation of covers on the fence posts. After that, the columns will acquire additional expressiveness, and their ends will be reliably protected from moisture.

The most popular types of covers for decorating posts

After installing the covers, the corrugated fence looks much more solid. The material for the manufacture of decorative covers is painted or galvanized steel, as well as concrete. Metal covers last as long as corrugated board, and the durability of concrete ones depends heavily on the quality of the source material. High quality concrete covers can last more than 15 years.

Of the colored caps, the best are colored with mineral pigment. Over time, it will not wash off, and the colors of the paint will not fade.

Installation of concrete covers is carried out on a cement-sand mortar, and steel - with the help of dowels.

We mount the corrugated board on the frame

After the construction of the posts, you can mount the corrugated board. Two workers are required for installation. In order not to scratch the lower end of the corrugated board, cardboard is laid on the foundation concrete. Before installation on the corrugated board with a black marker, marks are made for self-tapping screws.

The corrugated board is attached to the profile pipe 20x40x23 mm using an electric drill and galvanized roofing screws 4.8x30 mm with obligatory rubber gaskets. Sheets of corrugated board are overlapped.

Fastening is carried out through one wave on the lower section of the corrugation. Thus, for the installation of 1 m of corrugated board, six self-tapping screws are needed. When tightening, it is better to set the drill at low speeds, since at high speeds the cutting edge of the self-tapping screw will heat up and grind off.

The construction of such a fence by two builders takes about two weeks (without downtime). The cost of a 9-meter fence with six brick pillars was 36 thousand rubles, that is, 4 thousand rubles per linear meter. Detailed costs for the construction of a corrugated fence are shown in table 2.

Table 2 The cost of materials and work for the construction of a fence with brick columns
Materials or type of work Cost, rub.)
Dismantling the existing fence and arranging a temporary fence 1100
Ground works (volume 3 cubic meters) 2000
Soil removal with loading (volume 1.5 cubic meters) 1100
Cement 350 kg, crushed stone 3 cu. m., sand 1 cu. m., profile pipe 90 kg, foundation reinforcement (12 mm) 14 m, delivery 5800
Concrete work (volume 3 cubic meters) 3800
Welding and painting 800
Brick 450 pcs. with delivery 8000
Bricklaying 7000
Decking 18 sq. m. with delivery, 60 self-tapping screws 5500
Installation of corrugated board 800
Total 35900

Currently, the presence of a fence on the site is of great importance. It defines the boundaries of the plots, closes from prying eyes, prevents the penetration of uninvited guests. There are various types of fences - simple wooden, modest brick, pompous monolithic. In suburban areas, fences are often erected from corrugated board in combination with brickwork. As a rule, support pillars and foundations are made of bricks, and corrugated board is mounted in between. This method allows you to create fences that are not similar to neighboring ones.

Pouring the foundation for a combined fence

A combined fence is usually built so that it is combined with the appearance of other buildings on the site. For pillars use the same material as for the walls of buildings. Metal caps of pillars and corrugated board are selected in the color of the roof of buildings.

With the help of a combined fence, you can give your site the necessary individuality, as well as emphasize the architecture of buildings. Of course, the cost of such a fence will be much higher than a fence with steel poles, but the appearance will fully justify it. The high cost is due to the need for a foundation and brickwork of pillars.

To build fence made of brick and corrugated board, you must first dig a trench for the foundation. Its depth should be at least one meter. Then you need to mark the location of the supporting pillars, gates and gates. The step between the posts should be no more than three meters. After that, we build the formwork. In place of future pillars, pipes or corners should be installed to enhance their strength. At the next stage, the foundation is poured with concrete mix and gravel.

The width of the foundation can be the same along its entire length or different. For example, under the columns you can make the full width, and under the corrugated board - narrow. In this case, the amount of concrete is saved, the volume of earthworks is reduced, but the collection of formwork becomes more complicated.

After three days, you can start assembling the frame. It is made of profile pipes, which are fastened by spot welding. The frame should be painted.

Construction of brick pillars

After that, they begin to build brick columns. Pillars perform two main functions - supporting and aesthetic. Brick pillars are able to provide the fence construction with the necessary reliability and make it strong and durable. For pillars, facing bricks are usually used. Brick laying should be done gradually, laying 50-70 centimeters per day. Thus, a completely even column is obtained.

The height of the brick pillars is determined by the height of the future fence. Most often, the pillars are made two or three meters high and with a section of 380x380 millimeters (one and a half bricks). A section of two bricks (510x510 mm) is used much less frequently. On top of the finished posts, you should put on special caps that can be bought at a hardware store. They will protect the brickwork from destruction.

Installation of a profiled sheet to the frame of a fence made of bricks and panels

The final stage in the manufacture of the fence is the fastening of the profiled sheet. However, before mounting the corrugated board, marks are made on the material indicating the location of the screws, and the surface of the strip foundation is covered with cardboard or rags, which prevents damage to the material during installation.

Next, the sheets are set in a predetermined position, and they are fastened to the frame elements, for which galvanized self-tapping screws with a rubberized head 4.8x30mm are used. To screw in fasteners, a drill or screwdriver should be used, and fasteners should be made only to the lower corrugation of the corrugated board through the wave. All remaining materials are fixed in a similar way, with overlapping sheets.

Construction of a brick and corrugated fence: basic recommendations

In order for a self-made fence with brick columns to be distinguished by increased performance, certain recommendations should be followed during its manufacture:

  • In places where gates and wickets are fastened, provide for the installation of embedded elements in the column structure;
  • Traumatic operations (cutting profiled sheets, bricks) should be carried out only with the use of protective equipment (glasses, gloves);
  • It is advisable to equip the end faces of the sheets with a decorative profile for mechanical protection of the flooring.

Video how to build a fence from corrugated board and bricks with your own hands


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4 years ago

I want to build such a fence in the village instead of the old and rotten one. How to fill the foundation is understandable. I can also handle the platform under the gate myself. In principle, if desired, a combined fence can be built independently. Question at the gate. It's a pity there are no instructions for installing them ...

I've been thinking about replacing the fence in the country for a long time. Building it from corrugated board is a good idea, and reinforcing it with brick columns is very original. it is quite within the power of everyone to do it on their own, without additional costs for a standing team.

He made his fence using a similar technology, only instead of metal pipes he cast concrete pillars with a reinforced frame inside.
The formwork was made collapsible from OSB sheets.
And when casting the foundation for the fence, I laid the reinforcement, to which the frame of the pillar was attached, then everything, as in the description, was overlaid with bricks.