Compressor replacement in refrigeration. Refrigerator compressor repair and replacement: features and recommendations Then prepare the necessary tools

Dear Clients! All your questions are answered by our master on duty. By calling us, you will immediately receive professional advice on a defect in the operation of the refrigerator.

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Dear Clients! Be careful! Today, the total minimum cost of replacing a motor-compressor cannot be less than 6000-00 rubles. Nobody will work at a loss. If you are offered to replace the refrigerator motor-compressor for a smaller amount, you should think about it.

We all want to get a good result for minimal money. But think about how often you are lucky to get a quality product or service for a meager price? When choosing a refrigerator repair service, always remember where the free cheese is.

Replacing the compressor (motor) of the refrigerator is a complex and time-consuming process. Work on its replacement refers to a complex (major) repair. In order to replace the compressor (motor), you must first remove the refrigerant from the refrigeration unit, then replace the compressor (motor) itself and the starting relay, while during the repair process it may be necessary to replace some other worn-out components. After carrying out the above operations, the tightness of the system is restored using high-temperature soldering. Then the system is freed from air and charged with a certain amount of a specific brand of refrigerant.

How much does it cost to replace a refrigerator compressor?

Minimum total the cost of replacing the compressor of the refrigeration unit in our service center - 7500 rub . The price depends on both the brand and the model of the refrigerator.

Below is the estimated cost of replacing the compressor of freestanding refrigerators of the most common brands.

Once again, we would like to draw your attention to the fact that estimated cost. Only the foreman or duty engineer (senior foreman) will be able to name the exact cost of replacing the compressor with your refrigerator model upon approval of the order.

Owners of refrigerators Samsung, Electrolux, Liebherr, LG, Bosch and other high-tech brands should be aware that an inverter compressor may be installed on their refrigeration units. The cost of replacing an inverter compressor is significantly different from the usual one. The minimum purchase price of such a compressor is $180.

In the photo below: inverter motor-compressor. As you can see outwardly, it is no different from piston crank or crank-rocker motor-compressors installed on the vast majority of refrigerators. To determine the inverter or conventional compressor (motor) installed on your refrigerator, as a rule, it is possible only after the diagnostics or by the serial number, product code of the unit.

Refrigerator compressor replacement - a job for a professional

Having made a step-by-step diagnosis of your Atlanta, have you established that the cause of the breakdown is in the compressor?

We remember physics

From the school physics course, we know about the structure of the internal combustion engine. The compressor functions in a similar way. The scheme of his work for Indesit or Atlanta is the same. The piston and valve system compresses freon, sending the heated refrigerant to the condenser. There it passes into a liquid state, enters the capillary expander. The compressor compresses the freon, then cools the gas in the condenser, ensuring its circulation in the refrigeration system. The process has a continuous cyclic character. The compressor is switched off, turning on from time to time to perform the function of compressing the refrigerant.

What kind of refrigerator do you have - the Belarusian Atlant or the Indesit assembled according to the Italian patent, they all have the same motor, a similar arrangement of internal circuits. In Atlanta and Indesit, reciprocating compressors are used. The piston compressor is equipped with a vertical shaft electric motor. The design is isolated by a hermetic casing. The turned on motor starts the crankshaft, which, rotating, moves the piston. The refrigerant is pumped out of the evaporator by the piston and forced into the condenser.

Where to start replacing the refrigerator compressor with your own hands

Repair of refrigerators and replacement of the compressor can be done independently by establishing the cause of the malfunction. If the compressor heats up after being connected to the network, the thermostat relay is most likely out of order. Replacing the refrigerator compressor relay is carried out even by an amateur. Does the motor suddenly turn off when you start the refrigerator for no reason? Refrigerator compressor motor replacement is best left to the professionals.

But you can try to replace the compressor entirely.

What you need

Check out the video and photo of the step-by-step process of replacing the refrigerator compressor with your own hands.

Then prepare the necessary tool:

  • oxygen-propane burner;
  • two valves: for piercing and refrigerant withdrawal;
  • leak detector;
  • thermometer electronic;
  • small pipe cutter
  • filter dryer:
  • copper tube 6 mm;
  • solder;
  • flux;
  • clamping pliers;
  • Hansen coupling;
  • charging cylinder;
  • freon storage tank;
  • new compressor.

Observe security measures. Do not start work when the device is turned on. Repair equipment must be grounded. Work is done with gas - the room should be well ventilated. Free the refrigerator so that you can easily lift and turn it.

Work process

When replacing the compressor of the Atlant refrigerator or any other refrigeration device, the compressor must be slightly extended. Raising it, break off the tube filling the freon, having previously cut it with a file.

Then you need to release the gas. Turn on the refrigerator for no more than 5 minutes. The refrigerant will move to the condenser. Attach the piercing valve with the cylinder hose connected to it, unscrew it for 30 seconds. The gas will collect in a container.

Solder a copper tube in place of the broken tube. A gas burner is used here, in the absence of a burner, a soldering iron is suitable. An incision of several centimeters is made on the capillary expander in order to break off the tube and unsolder the filter from the condenser. The compressor is connected to the refrigeration unit with two tubes (one for pressurizing, the other for removing excess gas).

It must be soldered from these tubes or cut off with a pipe cutter. The filter drier is cut off at a distance of 15 mm from the condenser. Remove the start relay. Dismantle the compressor and remove it from the refrigeration cabinet. Before brazing a new compressor, clean the piping.

When installing a new compressor, all steps are repeated in reverse order:

  1. place the compressor in the refrigerator, fixing it on the traverse;
  2. plugs on the nozzles must be removed;
  3. it is important to depressurize the unit 5 minutes before soldering;
  4. when removing the plugs, check that there is no excess air pressure in the compressor (this will be indicated by the noise of the outgoing air;
  5. gradually connect the discharge, suction and filling tubes to the compressor nozzles, the filling tube must be 6 mm in diameter and 60 mm long;
  6. start soldering the seams on the tubes, adhering to the following sequence: filling, suction, discharge, make sure that the burner flame does not go inside the compressor nozzle;
  7. after removing the plugs from the filter-drier, attach it to the condenser, connect the capillary tube to it;
  8. solder the filter at the seams;
  9. and put on the valve half-coupling of the filling pipe;
  10. check the quality of the soldering of all seams, they should be smooth, without soldered spaces;
  11. refuel with freon by connecting a vacuum filling station to the coupling and removing moisture from the system;
  12. mount the start-up relay on the compressor by connecting the electrical wires;
  13. turn on the refrigerator, fill the system with freon, leave for 5 minutes;
  14. use a leak detector to check if the tightness of the seams is broken;
  15. perform a secondary evacuation of the refrigerator, leave it to work for 20 minutes;
  16. pinch the filling tube, remove the coupling, solder the tube.


Results

Your refrigerator is ready to go, start the engine. After that, you need to check the functioning of the relay. If it starts, then you have completed the task.

Having gained a positive experience with your own hands, you can now give advice if one of your relatives or friends has a similar problem. And in difficult times, you can earn extra money by performing the operation to repair the refrigeration unit, which is no longer difficult for you.

The motor-compressor is the "heart" of the refrigerator, one of its main parts. Unfortunately, motor failures are not uncommon. He suffers from time, and from power surges, and from too intense work. It is possible to repair this part, but as a rule, repairs are extremely expensive, painstaking and cannot guarantee that the breakdown will not occur again. Therefore, if the compressor breaks down, it is usually replaced with a new one. Installing the motor is not an easy task, which, in addition to “removed and installed”, requires the system to be evacuated and refilled with freon. You can't deal with it on your own. Entrust the replacement of the compressor to the specialists of "RemBytTekh", and they will promptly perform the work - already within 24 hours after receiving the application!

Compressor replacement procedure

  • Dismantling a faulty motor-compressor. The master will cut and break off the filling tube through which the system is filled with freon. This tube will be needed for the new compressor. Then, at a distance of 20-30 mm from the filter-drier, cut off the capillary tube so that freon leaves the system. After the refrigerant evaporates, the master removes (or cuts off) the suction and suction tubes from the faulty motor, they are soldered at a distance of about 10-20 mm from the compressor. Next, it remains to unscrew the motor mounts to the refrigerator body and remove the motor.
  • Replacement filter drier. The third stage changes the zeolite cartridge, which is also a filter drier. The master will desolder or cut off the old one and solder the new one. The filter drier is a small but very important detail. It prevents small particles and moisture from entering the capillary tube, which can damage the refrigerator. The filter drier must be changed each time the refrigerator cooling system is opened. Its cost in relation to the total cost of repairs is low. But keeping the old part in place can significantly reduce the life of the new compressor.
  • Installation of a new motor. The master will fix the motor in the housing and dock all the pipes of the refrigerator (suction, suction and filling) with the corresponding pipes on the compressor. Then solder the joints of the tubes with the motor.
  • Vacuuming the system. After sealing all the seams using a special pump, the master will evacuate the refrigerator, during which excess moisture is removed from the system.
  • Filling the refrigerator with refrigerant. When refueling, the master will also check the tightness of the soldering of all connections.

Refrigerators differ from other large household appliances in durability, while functioning daily. However, they are also prone to breakage.

With frequent power surges, the compressor for the refrigerator is the first to fail. It is this mechanism that is considered the most important element of the system, driving freon through the pipes, due to which cooling is provided.

In this article, we will consider the existing varieties of the compressor and analyze the causes of typical breakdowns. We will also give a detailed instruction on how to replace it with your own hands.

A broken compressor promises significant expenses not only for the purchase of a new device, but also for the work of the master.

However, you can go the other way and make a replacement yourself. Whichever option is chosen, first of all, you will need to choose the right type of compressor.

Collector blower

Obtaining information from sources about innovative models of refrigerators, one can come across such a concept as a “regular” compressor. However, not everyone knows its meaning.

This term refers to a collector mechanism with a vertically mounted motor shaft. It is mounted on a spring mechanism and closed with a sealed box, thereby providing a high degree of sound insulation of the system.

In older models, a horizontal layout was used, which made the unit more noisy - the vibration was reflected throughout the body.

It uses the standard principle of operation and technology developed many decades ago - the blower operates until the set temperature is reached in the refrigeration unit, and then turns off.

Refrigeration units can be equipped with one or two manifold blowers. If there are two of them, then one maintains the temperature in the freezer compartment, and the other in the cooling unit. Now it is becoming less and less common to find two-compressor equipment.

Overview models are mainly equipped with budget options for refrigerators, and this is their only advantage over other representatives of the species.

Inverter type compressor

The upgraded units are equipped with an inverter type of supercharger. A conventional compressor reaches its peak when it is turned off, and there are a lot of such repetitions per day, and accordingly, it is subject to rapid wear and a shortened operating life.

Whereas inverter devices work even with sufficient air injection in the chambers, periodically reducing the number of revolutions. The wear resistance of components is much lower, and, accordingly, the period of uninterrupted use is higher.

Linear view of the device

Innovative developments in imported technology involved a new type of blowers - linear. The principle of operation is similar to the previous versions of the devices, but this type is much quieter and more economical.

Unlike conventional mechanisms, they do not have a crankshaft. Through the action of electromagnetic forces, reciprocating movements of the rotor are provided.

New modern models of cooling devices are presented in a configuration with inverter-type compressors. They work measuredly and smoothly, without amplitude drops, which are the main causes of wear of the mechanism.

Linear superchargers are technically similar to the previous two analogues, but they have a number of significant advantages:

  • less weight;
  • high degree of reliability during operation;
  • no friction in the compression plane;
  • application at low temperatures.

LG is considered to be the main ideologist who has taken up the active introduction of linear-type superchargers. Most often they are used in refrigerators with a system no frost having individual temperature controllers in different blocks.

Rotary plate blower

Rotary (rotary) horizontally or vertically positioned blowers are equipped with one or two rotors and are analogous to a twin-screw juicer, however, screw-type spirals are unequal.

Depending on the principle of operation, they are divided into two main classes: with a rolling and rotating shaft.

A gap is formed between the piston and the compressor housing with movable plates. Due to the eccentricity of the rotor, its value changes during the reproduction of rotations, thereby blocking the transition of the refrigerant from one zone to another

In the first case, the unit is represented by an engine shaft with a mounted cylindrical piston, located eccentrically relative to the center, that is, displaced.

The rotation cycles are carried out inside the cylinder body. The gap between the housing and the rotor changes its dimensions during rotation.

In the place of the minimum opening there is a discharge pipe, the maximum - suction. To the reverse piston, in turn, a plate is attached by means of a spring, which blocks the space between the two nozzles.

In the second version, the principle of operation is similar with one difference - the plates are fixed and placed on the rotor. During operation, the piston rotates relative to the cylinder, and the plates rotate with it.

The general algorithm of the refrigerator

The functioning of all refrigerators is based on the action of freon, which acts as a refrigerant. Moving along a closed circuit, the substance changes its temperature indicators.

Under pressure, the refrigerant is brought to a boil, which is from -30 ° C to -150 ° C. Evaporating, it captures the warm atmosphere located on the walls of the evaporator. As a result, the temperature in the refrigeration unit drops to the set level.

In addition to the main pressure device that creates pressure in the refrigerator, there are auxiliary elements that perform the specified options:

  • evaporator, collecting heat inside the refrigeration unit;
  • capacitor, displacing the coolant out;
  • throttling device, which regulates the flow of refrigerant through a capillary tube and an expansion valve.

All these processes are dynamic. Separately, it is worth considering the algorithm of the motor and the principle of operation in case of its malfunction.

The compressor is responsible for the system regulation of differential pressure levels. The evaporated refrigerant is drawn into it, which is compressed and pushed back into the heat exchanger.

At the same time, the temperature indicators of freon increase due to which it passes into a liquid state. The compressor operates with the help of an electric motor located in a sealed housing.

Having dealt with the device, we proceed to the analysis of the main factors of compressor failure, after which it will be necessary to dismantle it.

The main causes of blower failure

All problems in the compression unit are conditionally divided into two main groups: with a running and idle motor. The first option is as follows: when turned on, a sound is heard from the compressor, the light on the refrigerator is on. Accordingly, in another embodiment, the unit does not turn on at all.

Reason #1 - Refrigerant Leak or Thermostat Defect

Here the main reason may be the freon leak.

You can carry out an independent check in this way: touch the capacitor - its temperature will correspond to room temperature.

Inspection of the degree of heating of the condenser can reveal one of the reasons for the breakdown of the refrigerator - a refrigerant leak. In this case, the device will function, but the temperature in the chambers will not be maintained.

Another reason is also possible - failure. In this case, the signal about the wrong temperature regime simply will not be received.

Reason #2 - winding problems

If the unit does not turn on, then an open circuit in the compressor windings may be a possible cause.

Such a situation can occur both on the working and on the launcher, or on both at once. When the refrigerator is connected to the network, the supercharger does not work, and the temperature of its block is room temperature.

Reason #3 - interturn short circuit

The device starts, but not more than a minute. And the body gets too hot.

In this case, the turns of the winding are closed, their resistance is reduced, an increased current passes through the relay unit. The relay turns off the supercharger, a click will be heard. After the starter cools down, it turns on the compressor again and so on in a circle.

Reason #4 - engine jamming

When turned on, the operation of the electric motor is heard, but there is no rotation, the compressor does not compress, the resistance of the windings is at maximum.

Reason #5 - broken valves

The loss of cooling capacity is due to defective valves.

As a result of such a breakdown, the unit operates without shutting down and does not create the proper level of compression, respectively, the units of the refrigeration unit do not reach the desired temperature.

Often in this case, an uncharacteristic ringing of metal parts during operation can be heard. You can find out by determining the degree of air supply.

You can confirm the presence of deformation of the valves by fixing the degree of air supply to the compressor. This will require a special device with a pressure gauge.

To make sure of the "diagnosis", you will need to cut off the filling pipe with a pipe cutter. We do the same with the capacitor filter.

Now, in their place, we connect a manometric manifold, turn on the supercharger and check the generated level of air compression - the norm is 30 atm.

Reason #6 - thermal sensor or start relay

It is also necessary to check for defects such elements as a thermostatic sensor and.

With such a failure, the compressor either does not turn on, or turns on for 1-2 minutes. When checking the resistance of the windings, the nominal values ​​\u200b\u200bwill be fixed.

Step-by-step self-replacement process

If the causes of malfunctions are not determined, the supercharger itself is subject to repair. And first you need to remove it from the refrigeration unit and check its performance.

Stage # 1 - we dismantle the supercharger

The compressor is located behind the refrigerator in its lower part.

During the dismantling process, the following tools will be used:

  • pliers;
  • spanners;
  • plus and minus screws.

The supercharger is placed between two nozzles connected to the cooling system. With the help of pliers, you need to bite them off.

In no case should the pipes through which the refrigerant circulates be sawn off with a hacksaw, because in the process small chips will necessarily form, which, when they enter the condenser, will move through the system, thereby leading to a quick failure of its elements

The refrigerator is started for 5 minutes, during which the freon goes into a state of condensate. After that, a valve with a hose connected to the cylinder is connected to the filling line. Within 30 seconds, with the valve open, all the refrigerant will be discharged.

After we remove the relay block. Visually, it can be compared with a regular black box with wires coming out of it.

First of all, the top and bottom are marked on the launcher - this will come in handy during the reinstallation process. Having unscrewed the latches and removed from the traverse, we also bite the wiring leading to the plug.

We unscrew all fasteners together with the viewing device. We clean all the tubes for soldering a new device.

Stage # 2 - measure the resistance with an ohmmeter

In order to make sure that the component is working, we will perform an external inspection, as well as testing and checking its individual components. First of all, we inspect the condition of the motor. This can be done using a multimeter or ohmmeter.

As mentioned earlier, the power cable is initially checked. If it is a worker, we examine the supercharger itself. To do this, we use the tester.

The correct functioning of the compressor can also be checked using a handicraft method using charging: we put negative probes on the body of a 6 V light bulb. Plus, we connect the power winding to the upper leg and touch each of them with the light bulb base. When in good condition, they should all illuminate the lamp.

First of all, we remove the protective block and extract the contents, disconnect from the starting relay. Next, using the probes of the multimeter, we measure the wires in pairs.

We compare the results obtained with the table, which indicates the optimal performance for this particular compressor model.

The data of a serviceable device in the standard version will be as follows: between the top and left-hand contact - 20 ohms, top and right-side - 15 ohms, left- and right-side - 30 ohms. Any deviations indicate breakdowns.

The resistance between the feedthrough contacts and the case is checked. Breakage readings (infinity sign) indicate the health of the device. If the tester gives any indicators, most often it is zero, there are malfunctions.

Stage # 3 - check the current strength

After checking the resistance, it is necessary to measure the current. To do this, connect the start relay and turn on the electric motor. With the tester's tongs, we clamp one of the network contacts leading to the device.

When working with a compressor, it is initially inspected for breakdown of the casing, since there is a possibility of electric shock if the winding gives voltage to the casing

The current strength must be identical to the motor power. For example, a 120 W motor corresponds to a current strength of 1.1-1.2 A.

Stage #4 - preparing tools and equipment

To replace a faulty refrigerator compressor, you need to prepare the following set of tools and materials:

  • portable station for regeneration, filling and vacuuming;
  • apparatus for welding or with a cylinder of MAPP gas;
  • compact ;
  • ticks;
  • Hansen coupling for tight connection of the compressor with the filling pipe;
  • copper pipe 6 mm;
  • filter absorber for installation at the entrance to the capillary tube;
  • alloys of copper with phosphorus (4-9%);
  • soldering borax as a flux;
  • freon bottle.

You should also focus on safety measures when working with repair equipment. First of all, you need to equip an insulating platform and disconnect the refrigeration unit from the power supply.

Having dismantled the old compressor, it is necessary to prepare and clean all copper pipes for subsequent soldering with a new device

After each filling with freon, before soldering, the room is ventilated for a quarter of an hour. It is not allowed to turn on heating devices in the room where the repair is being carried out.

Stage # 5 - we mount a new compressor

First of all, it is necessary to attach a new blower to the refrigeration block crosshead. Remove all plugs from the pipes coming from the compressor and check the atmospheric pressure in the device.

Depressurize it not earlier than 5 minutes before the soldering process. Then we connect the compressor nozzles with the discharge, suction and filling lines, their length is 60 mm, and the diameter is 6 mm.

Now we remove the plugs from the filter-drier and install the latter on the heat exchanger by inserting a throttle pipe into it. We solder the seams of the two contour elements. At this stage, we put on the Hansen coupling on the filling hose.

Stage # 6 - we start the refrigerant into the system

To fill the refrigeration system with freon, we connect a vacuum to the filling line with a coupling. For the initial start, bring to a pressure of 65 Pa. Having installed a protective relay on the compressor, the contacts are switched.

The evacuation process is the creation of a compression level below atmospheric in the cooling unit. By reducing the pressure in this way, all moisture is removed

Connect the refrigerator to the power supply and fill with refrigerant to 40% of the norm. This value is indicated in the table located on the back of the device.

The unit turns on for 5 minutes and the connecting nodes are checked for tightness. Then it needs to be powered off again.

The refrigerant is charged in a liquid state. The required amount is indicated by the manufacturer in the parameters of the refrigeration device located on the rear wall

Perform a second evacuation to a residual value of 10 Pa. The duration of the procedure is not less than 20 minutes.

Turn on the unit and completely fill the circuit with freon. At the final stage, we preserve the tube by clamping. We remove the coupling and solder the pipe.

Soldering of two pipes made of copper, is carried out by an alloy of copper with phosphorus (4-9%). Docked elements are placed between the burner and the screen, heating it to a cherry color.

The hot one is lowered into the flux and melted by pressing the bar to the heated docking area.

The control inspection of the solder joints is carried out from all sides using a mirror. They must be complete, without gaps.

The service life of the compressor declared by manufacturers is 10 years. However, its breakdown is inevitable.

In the event of a blower malfunction, you can replace the broken compressor yourself, having previously familiarized yourself with all the safety rules and the stages of the work ahead. Also for these purposes it is necessary to stock up with the necessary equipment.

If you have any questions about fixing breakdowns yourself, ask our experts in the comments to this post.

If the motor-compressor breaks down, a master is called to replace the part. In this case, many are confused by the issue of cost - the compressor itself is not cheap, and you also need to pay for repairs, the price of which can be several thousand rubles. If you manage to replace the motor yourself, it is enough to find out how much a new compressor costs and not overpay for repairs. Armed with detailed instructions and the necessary tools, you can temporarily become a repairman for your own refrigerator.

We will describe below how the motor-compressor and oil in it are replaced.

To replace the motor, you need to thoroughly know the principle of operation of the refrigerator, be able to correctly diagnose the breakdown, paying attention to the signs. Before work, familiarize yourself with the device of the equipment, the main causes of engine failure and their symptoms.

It can be roughly divided into three main parts:

  • evaporator;
  • capacitor;
  • compressor (consists of motor and relay).

If one of them does not function, and the remaining nodes are working, the refrigerator's performance is still lost.

The system is characterized by closed parameters. Freon is pumped from the evaporator by the compressor, after which it passes under high pressure to the condenser, where it cools, turns from a gas into a liquid and goes back to the evaporator. This is a continuous cycle of operation of refrigeration equipment.

Unlike other parts, the motor is always on. It starts after a signal from a temperature sensor, which reports an increase in temperature in the chambers. The relay starts the motor to start cooling the compartments. When the set temperature is reached, the relay is activated and the motor stalls.

The first sign by which a breakdown can be determined is a temperature jump in the main chamber. It can be so warm in there that all the food will go bad. There are other signs of failure of the main part of the refrigerator:

  • ice has grown on the walls (especially true for models with the No Frost function);

  • the motor hums, but does not produce cold, there is no refrigerant leak;
  • clicks, rattling and other extraneous sounds are heard: noise, rattle, vibration.
  • the motor runs continuously without stopping;
  • food in the chambers freezes too much.

Sometimes a cable or a broken wire is to blame for a breakdown, so before starting repair work, you need to measure the resistance in order to protect yourself from injury.

To check the resistance, find a place where there is no paint. If there are no such places, wipe off the coating with a solvent. Take the tester and attach its probes to the body and contact. If nothing is displayed, then the device is working, and if there are numbers on the multimeter screen, it is very dangerous to repair the compressor at home. If you decide to work with such a compressor, be extremely careful.

To check the current, make sure the start relay is working. Take a multimeter with tongs - it is more convenient to check with such a device. If the motor power is, for example, 140 W, the measuring device should show a current of 1.3 A. The ratio of these indicators is the same if the motor power is different.

Breakdowns can be classified into two groups:

  • Everything at first glance works fine - the compressor is buzzing, the light is on. In this case, a refrigerant leak may be relevant, and you can check it yourself - touch the condenser. If it's hot, then there really is a leak.

  • The temperature regulator is broken, so if the chamber is warm, there is no signal about it.

If the equipment does not work at all, in every fifth case the motor is to blame. If this is not the case, it is worth checking the relay and temperature sensor. When they fail, they need to be replaced. If there are no failures in the operation of parts, the motor is to blame, and it needs to be replaced.

It is difficult to replace this part without the help of a master, but it is possible. Read on for how to do this.

Before you get started, prepare the tools:

  • accumulator for freon gas;
  • valves (needed for puncture and selection);
  • burner.

Important! It is worth giving preference to an oxygen-propane burner.

To replace the compressor in the refrigerator "Ariston", "Indesit", "Atlant", "Stinol" or any other, proceed as follows:


Watch the video to get it right:

How to change compressor oil

If after replacing the compressor or relay it turned out that there is not enough oil in the system, then you need to replace or add it. Before draining, changing or refilling oil, you should consult with an experienced craftsman.

When else do you need an oil fill? We decided to consider this issue within the framework of this publication, because there are times when oil is not filled in a new engine, then you have to do it yourself.

Important! If the compressor does not turn off after replacement, the charging technology has been violated. Strictly follow the instructions when working with technical fluids.

  1. The container with new oil must not be opened until it is used.
  2. Buy liquid in containers of such a volume that it is enough for one gas station, otherwise you will have to interrupt the process and buy more.
  3. Do not transfer oil from one bottle to another and do not mix oils even of the same brand.
  4. When removing used oil, work using PPE - goggles, rubber or neoprene gloves. This is due to the fact that the oil may contain acidic impurities.
  5. To understand how much oil is needed for an old compressor, be guided by the amount of fluid drained.

What you need:

  • Vacuum pump;
  • filling hose with shut-off valve and screw type connection;
  • manometer.

Replacement process

  1. Vacuum the system.
  2. Close the service valves on the motor.
  3. Connect the vacuum pump to one of the valves.
  4. Lower the compressor pressure to the minimum (about 0.1 bar). Stop the pump.
  5. Unscrew the oil plug on the compressor and screw on the charging hose with shut-off valve.
  6. Open the suction valve and let the freon into the compressor to slightly increase the pressure. Close the valve.
  7. Open the shut-off valve on the charge hose to bleed air.
  8. Open the oil can and dip the tip of the hose into the container until it reaches the bottom.
  9. Close shut-off valve. Start the vacuum pump again.
  10. After the pressure in the motor drops below atmospheric, carefully unscrew the shut-off valve. Now you can fill the compressor with oil.
  11. To determine its level, monitor the filling through the viewing window on the motor.
  12. Close shut-off valve.
  13. Stop the pump and apply a slight positive pressure by adjusting the opening of the suction valve.
  14. Remove the charging hose. Screw on the oil plug.

The video below will help you better understand the refueling process:

This filling method ensures that there is no moisture or air in the system. There is a possibility of a minor refrigerant leak, which can be repaired with the right tools.

Important! When refueling, make sure that the oil container does not empty to the bottom, otherwise air will enter the system. If a precedent has occurred, then the oil fill plug is closed, and the system is evacuated.

If the oil needs to be topped up, it's easier to do so. Use for this purpose oil syringe. Do not be afraid that air will enter the system when the oil plug is opened, this is excluded.

If you have an oil pump, then use it - it doses the oil filling without reference to the pressure in the motor.

How long does the refrigerator last after compressor replacement? It all depends on the care and accuracy of your work. If your Liebherr, Samsung or any refrigerator is broken, you know how to replace the compressor and refill the oil. If this job seems difficult to you, play it safe and call a mechanic.