The main structural elements of the dagger, like most types of edged weapons in general, are the blade, handle and scabbard. Consideration should also be given to how the dagger is attached to the hip belt.
To make it easier to determine the position different parts dagger, let's agree that the dagger is suspended on the left side of the person wearing it with the blade down (obliquely down). Then the side of the weapon that is adjacent to the body of the wearer can be called internal, and the reverse - external. The side of the dagger facing the observer, who is facing the person carrying the weapon, is the front of the dagger (forehead), and the back is the back (back) of the dagger.
Most of the daggers have a double-edged blade and its stripes - external and internal - are symmetrically located to the axis. As a rule, the stripes are not exactly the same, as are the sides of the scabbard. The differences relate to the methods of decorating the blade and scabbard, which designs or coats of arms are superimposed on the handle, what is the engraving (etching) of the blade stripes: usually the engraving is richer on the outer strip, although often the weapon can be sheathed on both sides. The way the dagger is suspended determines which side of the scabbard is internal and which is external, which is front and which is rear.
The blade is the most important part of the dagger, it consists of a rod, which serves as the basis for the handle, and the blade itself, which - if we are talking about military weapons - and strikes. The length of this last element is taken as the length of the blade (although this is inaccurate, since the shaft also belongs to the blade).
The double-edged daggers are most often symmetrical, in cross-section they represent a rhombus or flattened hexagon, their thin section is flat, less often convex or concave. Sometimes they have grooves or crevices in the middle. The dagger blades are usually narrow, although there are also wide ones, as, for example, the daggers of Hitler's stormtroopers (SA), which were made in imitation of the Swiss daggers of the Renaissance.
In most daggers, the upper part of the blade, adjacent to the base, is an unsharpened die, the so-called threshold, or heel, from which the sharp edges of the blade (blades) originate. On the heel, the name of the manufacturer of the weapon, the number of the weapon, the surname or initials of the owner, the stamp of the receiver, etc. are often embossed. The stripes of the blade are polished, nickel-plated, chrome-plated or blackened. Often they are decorated with gilded ornaments; as a rule, only bayonets-daggers have coats of arms and inscriptions - etched, engraved or made using the niello technique. The inscriptions, as a rule, speak of the patriotic sentiments of the owner, and on the award daggers, the merits of the recipient and who awarded him.
The names of the individual parts of the dagger
Construction of the Polish aviation dagger model 1924/37
Sizes and samples of different dagger blades: a - double-edged without a groove; b - double-edged with a gap in the middle; c - double-edged with a groove in the middle; d - a single-edged blade with a groove along the butt.
As already mentioned, most daggers have a double-edged blade, symmetrical, straight. There are, however, daggers with single-edged blades. In the XIX century. naval sailors sometimes preferred daggers with a single-edged, curved blade, which looked like boarding edged weapons. But they did not receive wide distribution. Japanese daggers have single-edged blades, reminiscent of the blades of Japanese swords and daggers. Grooves and crevices are often made on single-edged blades.
An indispensable element of almost any cold weapon is the handle. The handle of the daggers, in addition to the fact that it allows you to hold the weapon in your hand, also serves as a decoration.
The handle consists of a handle and a guard (cross). On the handle, a grip and a tip are distinguished. The grip can be separated from the guard and the tip by hoops, which also serve as an ornament to the weapon, but often also fasten its structure. The grip is made from Ivory, bones or horns of wild animals, from synthetic materials, from wood, metal, leather. The grip is either smooth or profiled with transverse, longitudinal or spiral grooves. Often a wire is placed in such grooves, most often woven (filigree). The wider upper part of the handle forms the tip of the combat weapon, which prevents it from slipping out of the hand. Not only are the daggers' handles richly decorated, but, as is done in the manufacture of some other types of edged weapons, also the details used to attach the handle (handle) to the rod: the tip is riveted to the rod or screwed onto it, or riveted to the rod or screw on it a small nut-head at the very top of the tip.
In order for the daggers to be firmly held in the scabbard, sometimes a special locking device is attached to the lower part of the handle or to the upper part of the scabbard (a correspondingly shaped spring with a button).
Most types of edged weapons, including daggers, have a guard. If we are talking about a military weapon, then it serves to protect the hand holding it. At the daggers - for decoration. Its shape can be different - a straight line, an arc, or the Latin letter B laid horizontally. It is very rare to find a guard in the form of a bracket, which covers the handle on all sides and closes at the tip.
The scabbard serves as a shelter for edged weapons, and at the daggers it is also a decoration. To make the weapon comfortable to carry, the scabbard has arms, or a harness - in other words, a braid that is attached to both the scabbard and the waist belt of the owner of the dagger. The dagger can be worn in another way, if on the upper part of the scabbard there is a so-called paw, usually leather, with a hook that is threaded through a loop (or two loops) worn on a waist belt.
Examples of hanging daggers:
a - a dagger suspended on two hands (harnesses);
b - a dagger suspended on two hands converging into one knot;
c - a dagger suspended on one bearing ring;
d - dagger suspended on two symmetrically located bearing rings and two arms (vertical suspension); d - dagger (bayonet), which is worn in the paw; e - a dagger, which is worn in a foot on two hands;
g - a dagger (knife, bayonet), to the scabbard of which a loop for hanging the dagger is firmly attached.
The main element of the scabbard is the casing, that is, the cover, the cover that protects the weapon. Dagger scabbard covers are made of leather, synthetic materials, metal and wood, which is usually covered with leather or cloth. The housings are held in place with metal fittings (this, as a rule, does not apply to metal housings), to which are attached bearing rings (rings, ears) for hanging the scabbard. On the scabbard, most often there are two or three fittings, rarely - four. The so-called cuffed neck is the upper sheath. A collar, or a bezel, a ring is attached to the upper sling, neck, and on it is an eyelet with a hole through which the supporting ring is passed. Sometimes on the collar there are two ears and two bearing rings - at the same level on both narrow sides (ribs) of the scabbard casing. Much more often, two clamps are made on the scabbard, one above the other, each with one eyelet and a bearing ring, which are attached to one or two shackles. Some daggers are only worn on one support ring. The figure below shows different ways pendants of daggers. The clamps are made with smooth, indented transverse grooves, or they are decorated with an ornament. It happens that the ears with the bearing rings are attached directly to the forging. The lower sash is called a boot, it strengthens the structure and protects the lower part of the scabbard from damage. For strength, a ball, bump or comb is often placed at the end of the boot. But there are scabbards in which the end of the boot is flat.
On a metal scabbard, metal clamps with ears and bearing rings are applied to the casing, but sometimes the ears with bearing rings are attached directly to the casing. Instead of bearing rings, which can be mobile or stationary, sometimes bearing ears are attached directly to the casing.
The design of the bayonets, which are used as daggers, is somewhat different. Their blades are usually single-edged and usually have grooves or slits. Bayonets are equipped with devices for attaching them to the rifle in one or two units (in the guide handle or in the guide handle and the guard hoop), as well as additional system locking - a latch that allows you to quickly fasten the bayonet to the rifle and quickly (using the button) release it and remove it from the rifle. Bayonets, which were intended to play the role of daggers, often lacked devices for attaching them to the rifle and blocking them, or they were decorative in nature (say, the layout of the blockade release button). The bearing rings on the scabbard were replaced with a hook (hook) for the bayonet scabbard, which is usual for hanging the bayonet in the foot.
Combat knives, which were used instead of daggers, also underwent some changes (for example, they differed from their combat counterparts in decorations).
The lanyard owes its appearance to the saber. And she, most likely, became especially widespread in the 15th century. Lanyard - a loop, usually leather, attached to the handle of a cold weapon, it was worn on the wrist so that the saber would not be knocked out of the hand in battle. The lanyard also did not bind the fighter's hand; it allowed him, if necessary, to use another type of weapon - for example, pull out a pistol.
Over time, the lanyard was also used as a decoration, as well as a badge of distinction for officers and non-commissioned officers; evidence of the belonging of a soldier armed with melee weapons with one or another lanyard to a certain military unit; finally, by the lanyard it was possible to determine the citizenship of a military man.
And the weapon was adapted for tying a lanyard to it. The stirrups were attached to the handle, gaps were made in the guard bracket. The handle began to be shaped in such a way as to facilitate the attachment of a sling to it.
The word lanyard goes back to the Turkic tamlik, which meant knot. The German Feldzeichen and the French porte-epeen indicate that this is a sling serving as a badge of distinction.
The lanyard consists of two main parts - a loop and a knot. They are made from various materials - leather, threads, fabric, and also partially from metal and wood. Eventually the knot of the lanyard morphed into a pretty brush.
The lanyard came in different shapes:
Open, fringed;
Woven at the bottom;
In the form of an acorn.
The following parts of the brush and loop can be distinguished:
Hoop (knot, ankle) connecting the two ends of the loop to the brush. The cross-section of the hoop can be flat or rounded. It is decorated with coats of arms, numbers, monograms of rulers, emblems of military units, weapons, etc.;
The slider, located on the loop, serves to secure the loop on the wrist;
Loop protection (crown, crown), it protects the lower part of the hoop and upper part fringes;
Fringe with a handle, it is inside the structure, a fringe is attached to it, consisting of twisted cords, threads, wire or a combination of these materials.
Types of lanyards:
a - combat lanyard, leather;
b - lanyard - insignia, with an open,
fringed brush; в - lanyard - insignia, with a hoop,
crown and open metal
brush;
d - lanyard with a brush woven from below, in the shape of an acorn
Combat cavalry lanyards were made of leather with leather loops and sliders, with open tassels from leather straps.
Polish officer lanyards, which served as insignia, were silver or dark red, and non-commissioned officers were white and dark red. Daggers in the navy in the early years of the newly independent Poland were worn along with lanyards - insignia. Model 1924 daggers, which were adopted by the navy, aviation, armored and automobile forces, as well as motorized artillery, were worn without lanyards. And after the Second World War in Poland, the situation in this sense did not change.
V this work some types of daggers that have been used in different states are considered. Attention is focused on:
characteristics of daggers: their type is described, the state in which they were created and used is indicated, information is provided about designers and manufacturers, about decorations, markings, etc.; dagger designs: blades, handles (guard, grip, tip), scabbard, suspension method, materials used, information on production technology (surface treatment methods), dagger sizes: weapon length, blade length, blade width, length of the weapon in the sheath.
Here the reader will find notes on various changes in the design of daggers and methods of their manufacture.
The emphasis in the work is on the story about daggers used in the armed forces of various states, less is said about daggers circulating in civilian organizations, as well as about such types of these weapons, information about which was inaccessible.
G. Borowski insignia on the aircraft dagger model 1924/37
A. Mann insignia on a naval officer's dagger model 1924
Atypical, etched G. Borowski Warszawa insignia on a navy officer's dagger model 1924
Varszawa brand (address) on the aircraft dagger model 1924/37
Carl Eickhorn Solingen's trademarks on the officer's dagger in the armored forces of the 2nd Polish Republic - model 1924
Number and date of delivery - 12 X 1958 - a dagger belonging to General of the Air Force Jan Frey Beletsky
The company badge on the navy daggers of the Third Reich. Greek officer dagger markings
Coats of arms on the scabbard and on the heel of the blade of the Yugoslav dagger, the period between the two world wars
Marking on the heel of the Swedish officer's bayonet model 1896
Manufacturer's marking (Kirov Plant) on the Soviet Navy officer's dagger model 1945
Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have linked their lives with extreme types of active leisure - these are: fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.
There are various knives on the market in modern times: variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that is made by hand.
How to make a knife with your own hands is often written on the Internet, and to make them you should try.
Knives: types and main properties
In the photographs of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is a creative element created from different mechanisms.
There is a large classification of knives, depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, butterfly), knives for hunting, multitools, bivvy knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.
Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives designed for hunting or for tourism can be easily made at home on your own.
There are also such knives as knives for survival, the main task of which is to help with existence in conditions wildlife... This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.
The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish or other similar actions. Small dimensions make it easy to transport such a knife.
When making such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.
Steps for creating a knife
To obtain positive result during the manufacture of a knife, you should first make an outline of the drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve at the end.
Instructions on how to make a knife at home include a number of rules.
Making a knife step by step
Cut out the blank for the future knife. Relying on finished drawing, cut out the shape for the knife.
You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, the base is brought to the required form. And after that, there will be an already understandable workpiece in the hands, where you can distinguish between the places of the handle and the blade.
Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage, you clearly need to know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking trips, it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.
And, if the knife is created for functioning in the kitchen or in the garden, then the razor type is suitable.
Do not expect perfect sharpening from this stage, as this is just a rough cut to determine the future shape.
If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. To create the handle, the most various materials- these are: wood, organic glass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.
Note!
Having cut out the blank to create the handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in the hand, as well as its proportionality relative to the blade. The knife handle is fixed using a riveting method.
The foot handle is shaped using a grinder.
The knife is ground and polished using sandpaper.
The final sharpening of the blade is done after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.
At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet or polish.
Note!
As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not so complicated, so everyone can try their hand at this area.
You can also set the desired and desired design for the future knife. Special attention pay attention to the handle during the design process.
Knife design
Since it is by the handle of the knife that others can then judge your creative thinking and status.
Some write their names on the handle of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.
The simplest knife can be built in an emergency in the forest, the main thing is to find the materials necessary for its creation.
Note!
It is necessary to find only the cutting part for the knife, and then insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, ropes or leather.
Photo of a knife with your own hands
(ZOF), Zlatoust, Russia
The product is modeled on the dagger of the USSR Navy in 1945. The uniform dagger of an officer of the Russian Navy is produced in series and is in service to this day.The mouth of the scabbard on the front side is decorated with an image of an anchor intertwined with a rope, with back side- image sailing ship... There is no engraving on the blade.
Design
The tetrahedral white handle is bounded by tapered bushings. The blade is made of high-quality, stainless, alloy steel 40X13. The scabbard is wooden, covered with black leather. The scabbard device is made of brass and consists of a mouth, a clip and a tip. On the mouth and on the nut there are movable rings for belts and harnesses.
Specifications
- Dimensions of the dagger, mm ... 320 (212) x17.5 ± 0.5x4.0 ± 0.75 *
- Handle length, mm ... 108
- Steel blade dagger ... 40X13
- Blade hardness ... no more than 25 HRC
- Weight dagger without scabbard, gr ... 185
- Free sale and wearing
Technology
The blank of the blade is performed by hot stamping, by machining and polishing it is given its final shape. The coatings are electroplated. The handle is turned from aminoplast. Completed simple engraving scabbard device.Equipment
- Marine dagger, souvenir, simple
- Branded packaging
- Manufacturer's certificate and information sheet with the mark of the Ministry of Internal Affairs
- Accounting documents
Making a dagger to order
This and other daggers of the section can be ordered individually. Provide your sketch, branding, or just let us know your wishes and we are in as soon as possible we will develop a layout. Price and production time finished product in this case will be calculated individually. But we guarantee that you will receive an author's product made in accordance with your wishes and in a single copy. To order a designer dagger, just send us a request to free form... Contacts are listed on each page of the site.
The dagger is absolutely identical to the combat dagger, but has a weakened blade hardening to meet the standards applicable to souvenir weapons.
The dagger complies with GOST R 51715-2001 Decorative and souvenir items, similar in external structure to melee or throwing weapons. General technical requirements.From a historical point of view, daggers were originally a stabbing melee weapon. Now their purpose has changed, and they began to bring more aesthetic pleasure than to satisfy the combat needs of men. But, despite this, the dagger, as a military weapon, still remained. Until now, daggers are issued to graduates of the naval educational institutions, and they remain with them for the rest of their lives, as a personal weapon. Daggers of this type are a real melee weapon and, if necessary, are sharpened by professionals. As is known, a special document is required to carry edged weapons.
Souvenir daggers are another matter: outwardly, they are a complete analogue of real daggers, but are not intended for sharpening, since the blade of souvenir daggers is not heated. Due to this property, souvenir daggers are not considered melee weapons.
Myths about sharpening souvenir daggers
Russia is rich in modern craftsmen, so the Internet is replete with publications where left-handers share recipes on how you can still make a cutting dagger. Just take this advice with caution and common sense. Recommendations mean the process of sharpening and polishing on milling machine where the laser will control the sharpening angle. But this applies, as a rule, to hot blades for hunting knives... Allegedly sharpening will make the dagger sharp, but will not reveal it individual characteristics... We are taught: in order to sharpen a dagger yourself, you need to know the exact procedure, otherwise you can damage the dagger so that then nothing can fix the situation. It is unlikely that after grinding a souvenir product, the surface of the blade will become sharp and, moreover, shiny. Blades can be polished only by a master who has a wealth of experience and knows exactly what needs to be done. After polishing, you can see the structure of the steel itself.
Thus, to summarize:
Of course, in principle, you can try to sharpen a souvenir dagger, but keep in mind:
- The chances of success are minimal, since the steel is not hardened initially, i.e. does not provide for the ability of the edge of the blade - to cut
- And if suddenly you manage to sharpen the dagger blade, then, attention - it will become a real cold weapon, and wearing it - you yourself understand - serious restrictions.
An ordinary souvenir dagger is not a melee weapon, but if suddenly you are lucky enough to sharpen the edges of the blade, then its owner will need to acquire the right to carry melee weapons, but does anyone need these additional troubles? A gift is a pleasure, not unnecessary body movements.
Remember the meaning of owning a dagger for a civilian: it is not at all in combat properties, but in collecting. The main thing is the historical significance of the product.
How to make a lady's dagger aslan wrote in October 3rd, 2017
I'll tell you about how I got stuck to make myself an elegant lady's dagger, and how I made it. I'll make a reservation right away: I'm not a knife-maker, I'm a seamstress. Just periodically, as it inserts something that is not on the profile, do it - so right up to the shaker, drop everything and do it immediately. I drew a sketch last fall, then I bought components, but the light came on only a month ago. I had to push aside a large and urgent order for sewing and, with a sigh, surrender to the impatient cockroaches in my head.
Five days of work is the result, and the process itself is under the cut.
Of course, the first thing to do is sketch. I looked through a good couple of hundred daggers in search of my perfect shape- I didn't like anything. For some reason, for small daggers, in most cases, very narrow handles and small guards are made. For me - that's straight ugly, I saw mine as a very elongated drop, and I drew it. The final shape of the handle is different from the sketch, I changed this already in the process, focusing on the comfort in the hand. 
What she took. Riding blade, steel D2, hardness 61. Garda cupronickel, casting. A block of acrylic composite with foil. I spent the whole day polishing the guard, sandpaper and dremel were to help me. And that is a very rough stamping. Separately, after polishing, I did not take a frame, but it can still be compared with the general photo. 
Well, let's go. While the husband is at work, you can do the housework in his balcony workshop. Oh drill! With a drill, I made an insertion hole, crookedly-obliquely, the shank walks, but later it will be tightly fixed with a through pin and epoxy. 
My husband looked at my amusements condescendingly, did not interfere in the process, but gave several useful tips which I myself would not have thought of. For example, to make a neck in the handle to sink it into the guard, and reduce the likelihood that the blade will break at the handle. I don’t know at whom and with what force I have to poke in order to break this steel, but the advice seemed sound. She took off the excess with a hacksaw, modified it with a file, and came out like this "bottle": 
Marked and drilled through hole under the pin (is it a nail? Come on! ..). You can now attach the blade and guard to cold welding, and pour everything else generously with epoxy and leave for a day. 
Everything is frozen, sitting tight, and now the tedious work of shaping the acrylic bar begins. When you don't hold anything heavier than a needle in your hands, a day of hacksaw and file work is a little frustrating. But acrylic pleased me, it turned out to be quite easy and pleasant to work with, even easier than with wood (recently I had to pile a crosspiece for a mobile). But it is dusty, dog, awful. Rough hacksaw shape: 
Now files and files: 
And two days for polishing, a day for a hilt, a day for a guard. Sandpaper 100-2500, some kind of suspicious white powder, very much like a dental powder and diluted with water (my husband singled it out), a dremel with felt nozzles. To top it off, a layer acrylic varnish... Seriously, I don't know if it was possible. It's just that I sometimes paint up to a heap and found varnish in the stocks of art supplies. Well, the logic of the blonde was simple: the handle is acrylic - so, let the varnish be acrylic. 
How it fits in the hand and a couple more photos. 
I thought about sharpening for a long time. If you do two-sided, then, of course, it will be cold-cold. And as the unforgettable O.B. - "I respect the criminal code, this is my weakness." You can make a lorry, but the dagger is symmetrical, it will be ugly. In any case, a sheath will be required for sharpening, but I am not mentally ready yet)) Although there are beautiful leathers in the suit, I understand the technology itself. As long as I left it as it is, the tip is there by itself, wow, God forbid you run into it. 
Well, I ask the professionals not to spit much; for the first (and, I think, the last) time, I think I did it) 