Home craftsmen often have to assemble furniture with their own hands. This happens both when purchasing ready-made interior items and when self-production cabinets, cabinets, tables and the like. Wherein correct fastening guides for a wide variety of drawers becomes a real stumbling block. Despite the apparent simplicity of this work, installation errors can lead to dire consequences. In the process of further use of the furniture, serious difficulties may arise. Therefore, it is important to immediately determine the type of guides themselves and the method of their installation.
Types of guides
At the moment, there are 2 main types of guides that are installed on a drawer. These are roller and ball systems. There are also other designs: hidden, with closers, telescopic, and so on. But they don’t install them with their own hands. This installation is carried out in a factory setting.
Roller guides usually consist of 2 strips with perforations for fasteners. Plastic wheels are attached to the ends of the structures. Thanks to them, the drawers slide out.
Figure 1. Types of guides.
Such systems have a number of significant disadvantages:
- When in use, the drawers make an unpleasant sound.
- The wheels are unreliable and quickly become unusable.
- If there is a strong pull, the box may fall out of its intended slot.
But such guides also have advantages. They are cheap and easy to install.
Ball systems are also called guides full extension. This is a telescopic design that allows you to extend the drawer the entire length of the bar. Inside the system there are metal balls that ensure smooth and almost silent movement.
The main difference between roller and ball systems is that the first one consists of 2 profiles independent from each other, and the second one is one-piece. In the first case, 1 strip is attached directly to the wall of the box, and the 2nd – to the furniture. The rollers are disassembled only during installation. And in assembled form look like a solid structure. It is this feature that ensures the reliability of the fastenings: the storage space does not fall out even with a strong tug. Appearance different guides are shown in Fig. 1.
At the moment you can find guides in stores different sizes. This allows you to select finished design to interior items of any type and depth. As a rule, roller systems are placed on boxes that are not expected to bear heavy loads. They can be found in linen and clothing closets, kitchen modules (for example, for storing cutlery), and hallways. Ball structures are placed on linen drawers of beds and furniture intended for children's rooms.
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Installation of roller elements
Figure 2. Scheme of fastening roller guides.
Whatever type of drawer mounting you choose, you will need the following tools:
- drill with a thin wood drill bit;
- screwdriver with travel limiter;
- a set of screwdrivers with various blades (flat and Phillips).
Also, don't forget to have your measuring tools ready. You will need a tape measure or a long ruler and a square.
All necessary marks can be made with a simple pencil or colored chalk. The installation diagram of roller guides is shown in Fig. 2.
The process of installing guide systems on drawers occurs in 3 stages:
- Marking furniture walls and storage areas.
- Installing the bar on the drawer.
- Installing strips on furniture.
Figure 3. Diagram of the ball guides.
If you follow this sequence, you will be able to avoid possible mistakes.
The guide can be installed anywhere. But usually they are mounted strictly in the middle of the wall (this makes it easier to determine the location of the structure on the furniture) or flush with the top or bottom of the box. But roller systems are most often installed on the bottom edge.
It is wiser not only to mark the places for screwing in self-tapping screws, but also to drill them. This will ensure that the screw does not split the wood. You need to determine the location of the fasteners immediately both on the drawer and on the wall of the furniture.
The master should remember that the thickness of this type of guides is 1.25 cm. Accordingly, the width of the drawer should be 2.5 cm narrower than the internal width of the furniture (both sides are taken into account). Otherwise retractable design will not fit into the housing. For freer movement, add 1-2 mm to this gap.
The length of the screws is selected based on the wall thickness.
The head of the fastener must firmly fix the guide, but not rise above the bar. In this case, the sting should not penetrate through the wall. First, the guides are fixed on the drawer, and then on the furniture. After which the storage system is placed in its designated place.
This is the most common type of loop. And since we are talking about updating kitchen set, we will consider the option of installing a hinge with a built-in closer.
In installation furniture hinge there is nothing complicated. But immediately before installation, you need to have an idea of how this is done, so as not to spoil the new facade.
Tools and accessories
So, we will need:
- End mill, diameter 35mm
- Drill
- Screwdriver (or Phillips screwdriver)
- Pencil
- Shiloh or Kerner
- Construction corner
- Self-tapping screws 3.5*16, 4 pcs. on a loop
- Furniture hinge + strip
Calculation of the number of hinges per door
For high facades, more than two hinges should be installed. See picture below.
Facade preparation
Vertically the distance from the edge of the facade, depending on its height, is 70 - 150 mm.
The distance from the working side of the facade for a standard hinge is usually 21 - 22 mm 
Drilling holes for the groove
We make the hole for the hinge using an end mill. Before drilling, you need to make a small indentation using a center punch or an awl. In order to prevent the cutter from moving from the center.
The thickness of the facade is 16 - 18 mm, so it is necessary to ensure that the groove is no deeper than 12 mm and that the cut is uniform.
Installing the loop in the groove
We adjust it perpendicular to the edge of the facade. Then we mark marks for the screws with a pencil and tighten them. 
We attach the facade to the body
- Try the sash on the body and mark the future attachment points.
- Install strikers (picture below) using a self-tapping screw 3.5*16.
It is most convenient to make a canopy from the top hinge, because the facade is already fixed. And it won’t be difficult for us to secure the façade and the bottom strip.
Adjusting the hinges
After we have installed the hinges and hung the facades, we need to adjust the gaps so that the doors do not cling to each other.
The design of the hinges with a closer allows for horizontal, height and depth adjustments.
First, you need to visually determine the unevenness of the facade in relation to the body and whether the gap is even in relation to the adjacent door.
"Vertical adjustment"
We loosen the hinge screws, align the door and tighten it again. (Fig.1)
"Depth adjustment"
That is, we adjust the gap between the body and the facade. We loosen the eccentric on the hinge arm and adjust it back and forth, then tighten it back. (Fig.2)
If you have any difficulties installing the fronts on the drawers, then use the instructions below:
- Assemble the box frame
- Screw the guides to the sides of the chest and drawer frame
- We drive all the collected boxes inside IMPORTANT: WE DO NOT PLACE FACADES!
- By using double sided tape We align the facades with the walls, taking into account the gaps. In this case, the drawer is in the chest of drawers, and there is no need to remove it!
If the front part is level, the drawers do not cling to each other, and all gaps are observed, then we begin to secure the front to the box body. To do this, take out one box at a time and place it on back panel facing towards you. After this, use a 5mm drill to drill through the body of the drawer through the hole on the front part and with inside we pull the facade through the handles.
Please note that the tape serves only to align the facades with the walls, taking into account the gaps; the facades are secured with screws through the handles!
Important: When installing the boxes, each of them must be returned to its place in the same sequence in which they were in point (3). It is very important not to disturb this order, since when changing the positions of the drawers (the top drawer is placed down and vice versa), a problem will arise with the fact that they will not fit into place.
If you still have questions about the assembly, then write to us at email, and we will help you sort out all the points that are unclear to you.
The details have been completed, the cutting has been ordered, now the most important thing remains - installing the facades.
Today we will talk about one very convenient way installation furniture facades on drawers.
The method is quite simple and popular, and even if this is your first installation, you will still succeed smoothly and without jambs.
So, how to quickly, conveniently and without problems install a front on a drawer? For this we need:
- screwdriver
- screws 4*30
- clamp (I took it for 3 USD)
- Double-sided tape
- probe for determining the thickness of the gap between the facades
Before installation, the drawers (which are still without fronts) must be in the furniture product, the product itself must be assembled and leveled (without distortions or tilts).
We take double-sided tape, cut several strips and stick them with one side on the ends of the boxes as shown in the photo.
After this, having previously removed protective film using tape, we will need to lean the facade against the box, but before that, even before we “glue” it, we need to align the facade as accurately as possible both vertically and horizontally.
To ensure a horizontal gap of 3 mm (or whatever you provided when drawing up the detailing) between the facades, you can use a kind of marker - a probe. You can use a ruler of a given thickness, pieces of edge, or find another means at hand.
The hardest thing is to lean the first facade evenly, then everything will go like clockwork. It’s better to start from the bottom drawer, it will be more convenient.
After you attach the facade to the drawer using double-sided tape, in order for it to “not move” when fastened with a screw, the facade with the drawer must be secured with a clamp. After fixing it near the clamping point, we screw in the screws from the inside of the box, in increments of 15-20 cm.
That is, to maintain the horizontal gap we use a feeler gauge, to level the facade on the sides we use straight arms and an even eye. Or you can use a flat board and place it vertically.
Many may argue that the tape leaves unnecessary gaps, but I have never noticed such gaps in myself, the main thing is to tighten the screws tightly.
In this simple way you can easily and efficiently attach the fronts to the drawers.
Today we will look at the method of installing fronts on drawers, which is widespread among furniture makers due to its simplicity and accessibility.
When I made my first furniture with a drawer, I was faced with the problem of attaching such fronts to full height, because it is necessary to simultaneously set the gaps between the front and the box, then pull out the drawer (for what?) and screw it from the inside. With great difficulty I got out of it, and then decided to search on the Internet - everything turned out to be very simple.
So, let's start in order. In the previous one, we assembled a cabinet with drawers. Now it is necessary to design the facade part.
The first stage is preparatory. It is necessary to prepare the facades themselves for installation. To do this, we lay them out as they will be installed on the workbench.
Our task is to mark and install furniture handles.
For this we need:
- roulette,
- square,
- pencil.
- This simple conductor from Ikea greatly simplifies life.
We find the center of the facade and put it at risk. Be sure to check the other side. The values must match.
Place the jig on the center mark and use a pencil to mark the centers of the holes for attaching the handles.
We repeat this manipulation on each facade.
Let's check again. The distance from the side to the hole should be the same on both sides.
For drilling, it is best to use a sub-tree drill like this with a central tenon. Diameter 4-5 mm. It does not move to the side, which is possible when using metal drills.
We drill holes through. To avoid chipping, on a hard backing. It should look something like this.
We immediately repeat the manipulation with the remaining facades.
Bolts are used to secure the handles. Standard ones (which are supplied in the kit - on the left) have a press washer and are not always suitable for drawers, since the protruding cap will rest against the front of the box itself and will interfere with its tight fit. That's why I usually use countersunk screws - I have to buy them separately.
When tightening such screws, they are recessed into the material and do not create any obstacles. It is advisable to tighten it by hand so as not to strip the threads from the handles.
So, our facades are ready for installation.
Now let's return to the problem of intermediate fixation. We need to modify the front of the drawer so that it holds the front (at least a little). It is necessary to drill 2-4 through mounting holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm in the front wall.
It helps a lot in this matter... double sided tape. It is best on a foam basis. (Thin usually does not adhere to both surfaces being glued due to slight distortions).
Any – quality doesn’t matter. I buy the cheapest one at FixPrice.
Place several strips of tape on the front of the drawer. We remove the protective film from them.
We apply the prepared front to the box, laying a gasket on top (or bottom - depending on where you start from) to fix the gap. This master class uses 2 mm PVC edge, if the gap is 3 mm, then I lay a piece of fiberboard; it makes no sense to do more.
Controlling the position of the facade from the sides and pushing it upward, we press it against the drawer and press down for a few seconds, allowing the tape to stick. Then we carefully pull out the drawer and secure the facade with a clamp. That's it, now he's not going anywhere!
We screw it into the mounting holes using self-tapping screws (I use 5x30 mm). First, in one, then remove the clamp and check the correct installation of the facade by sliding the drawer into place and assessing the gaps. If everything is good, then screw in the second screw. If not, you'll have to tear it off and start all over again.
Please note that the front wall of the drawer is made lower than the rest. This is so that you can use standard screws with protruding heads to fasten the handles. In addition, material savings (in this project everything was back to back).
The next slide is correct installed facade No. 1. Nothing protrudes from the edges, the gap with the upper horizon is uniform 2 mm.
We repeat the same manipulations with the next facade... and the next. And so on until the very end.
As a result, we should get such a neat bedside table with equal gaps between the drawers.
This method has two main disadvantages:
- The need to buy additional consumables (adhesive tape and countersunk screws).
- Non-interchangeability of boxes. That is, if you pull out the middle drawer and put it instead of the top one, then, most likely, one or another distortion will be observed.
But tolerance for marking inaccuracies and simplicity more than offset all these disadvantages.