Fig 1. The device of the boat (according to V.I. Shatrov, 1998):

1 - sternpost; 2 - hole for sorlin; 3 - stern eye for painter; 4 - transom beam; 5 - rudder head; 6 - transom board; 7 - seat for the helmsman; 8 - shaped butt; 9 - guide bars; 10 - dorsal board; 11 - aft seat; 12 - duck for fore-sheet; 13 - subkey; 14 - chaka under a metal knitsa; 15 - metal knitsa; 16 - duck for jib sheet; 17 - inter-jar chaka; 18 - vant putens; 19 - fish; 20 - medium bank; 21 - emphasis for legs; 22 - basting; 23 - dowel; 24 - mast bank; 25 - fender; 26 - strap with a socket for a lamp post; 27 - breshtuk; 28 - tack hook; 29 - stem; 30 - nasal eye for painter; 31 - bow lattice hatch; 32 - gunwale; 33 - steps; 34 - steps of the lamp post; 35 - bow bank; 36 - bow chain lift; 37 - clamping nut and kilson washer; 38 - steps for the mast; 39 - frames; 40 - sheerstrake; 41 - bead; 42 - pillers shoe; 43 - pillers; 44 - sheathing; 45 - sublegars; 46 - rowing (stern) bank; 47 - drain brass plug; 48 - sheet pile sheathing; 49 - aft lattice hatch; 50 - emphasis for legs; 51 - keel; 52 - kilson; 53 - wooden lining under the knitsa; 54 - stern chain lift; 55 - metal knitsa; 56 - wind vane; 57 - steering wheel; 58 - steering wheel loop with fittings; 59 - rod for mounting the steering wheel; 60 - rudder feather.

The set of longitudinal and transverse bars representing the frame of the boat is called a set. The boat hull set consists of 5 main elements: keel, stem, sternpost, frames and transom (transom board).

For the longitudinal strength of the boat hull, an oak beam is placed in the frame - keel (Fig. 1.51; Fig. 2.1), ending in the bow with a vertical bar - stem (Fig. 1.29; Fig. 2.4), and in the stern - sternpost (Fig. 1.1; Fig. 2.8). The stem is firmly connected to the keel using a wooden connecting bracket - knop (nose knee) (Fig. 2.7), and the sternpost using steel knit (Fig. 1.55; Fig. 2.10) on brass bolts.

Attached to the top of the keel rudder-keel (fig. 2.2), which serves as additional strength of the set. A metal strip is applied to the keel and stem - forging (Figure 2.5), protecting the boat from damage during mooring.

Fig 2. Six-oared YL (detailing) (according to M.M. Kopp, 1988):

1- keel; 2 - resen-keel; 3 - sheet pile; 4 - stem; 5 - keel strip, or fitting; 6 - falstem; 7 - knop (nasal knee); 8 - sternpost; 9 - transom board or transom; 10 - stern metal knee; 11 - wooden gasket under the knitsa; 12 - mounting bolts; 13 - kilson; 14 - mast steps; 15 - steps of the lamp post; 16 - pillers shoe; 17 - pillers shoe clasp; 18 - pillers; 19-eye bow chain lift; 20 - chain nasal lift; 21 - chain lifting bracket; 22 - the butt of the chain lift; 23 - kilson mounting bolt; 24 - kilson washer; 25 - kilson nut; 26 - stern chain lift; 27 - clip of the nasal chain lift; 28 - clip aft chain lift; 29 - strap with a socket for a lamp post; 30 - bow lattice hatch; 31 - tack hook; 32 - fish; 33 - emphasis for legs; 34 - removable front part of the aft lattice hatch; 35 - aft lattice hatch; 36 - emphasis for legs; 37 - tank bank; 38 - sheerstrek (upper sheathing belt); 39 - frame; 40 - fender; 41 gunwale; 42 - bead; 43 - sublegars; 44 - mast bank; 45 - inter-jar chaka; 46 - metal knitsa; 47 - dowel; 48 - strap with a nest for a dowel; 49 - slats mast basting; 50 - mast basting; 51 - subkey; 52 - oarlock; 53 - butt for shtert; 54 - pin for oarlocks; 55 - vant putens; 56 - cable lanyard; 57 - thimble guy; 58 - guy; 59 - drain plug; 60 - socket for drain plug; 61 - leather pad; 62 - back board; 63 - guide bar; 64 - shaped butt for fore-stem; 65 - seat for the helmsman (stern knee); 66 - strapping of the transom board; 67 - eye for stern painter; 68 - stern painter; 69 - aft seat; 70 - clip of the flagpole; 71 - steps of the flagpole; 72 - boat nail with washer; 73 - curly timber.

The transverse strength and reliability of the boat hull set are frames (Fig. 1.39; Fig. 2.39), which are fastened with galvanized steel screws to the groove-keel along the entire length of the boat on both sides.

Over the frames on the cutting-keel is superimposed kilson (fig. 1.52; fig. 2.13)- removable board that is connected to the keel brass bolts (Figure 2.23). On kilson there are steps (Figure 1.38; Figure 2.14) for the installation of masts and sockets for racks - pillers (Figure 1.43; Figure 2.18), supporting banks. The upper ends of the frames are connected by two curved oak sides of the boat fenders (Fig. 1.25; Fig. 2.40), which, in turn, are cut into the stem with their bow ends and connected to it and to each other breshtuk (Fig. 1.27)- a steel knice with a wooden overlay. Stern ends fenders fastened with a knot transom beam (Figure 1.4). The fender gives the boat longitudinal strength and reliability of the set.

To protect the frames from damage, the bottom of the boat is closed with removable shields - fish (Figure 1.19; Figure 2.32), having footrests (Fig. 1.21; Fig. 1.50) rowers, and the aft bottom is closed lattice hatch (Fig. 1.49; Fig. 2.34,2.35) consisting of two parts.

The upper end of the piller fits into the socket on the jar, the lower end into shoe (Fig. 1.42; Fig. 2.16) on kilson. Between the banks on the sides are struts called inter-jar cups (Fig. 1.17; Fig. 2.45).

On the inside of the boat, a little above the design waterline, oak beams are laid along the sides - sublegars (Figure 1.45; Figure 2.43) on which the bank, aft seats and bow lattice hatch (Fig. 1.31; Fig. 2.30) with strap and socket for a lamp post (Fig. 1.26; Fig. 2.29). The lower end of the rack enters the nest of the step on the stem. The banks and the stern seat are attached to the podlegars and the fender with the help of knits (fig. 1.15; fig. 2.46). The fenders and podlegars in the bow are firmly connected to each other and the stem, in the stern with a transom board.

Flush embedded to the sternpost transom board (transom) (Fig. 1.6; Fig. 2. 9).

Along the perimeter from the inside to the transom is attached wooden beam – transom beam (Figure 1.4).

Parallel to the transom board, it is inserted into the vertical guide rails removable back board (Fig. 1.10; Fig. 2.62), which is installed parallel to the transom board at a distance of 35 - 45 cm from it.

On inside transom board is located clip (fig. 2.70), and on the aft seat - socket for attaching a flagpole, (flagpole steps) (Fig. 1.7; Fig. 2.65)

Between the dorsal and transom boards at the starboard side on a wooden plate - Knice (Figure 1.7; Figure 2.65), based on the fender and transom bars, is the place of the foreman of the boat.

Belts skins (Figure 1.44) Yala laid in a cover. The bottom line of the plating boards included in the sheet pile of the keel is called sheet piling (Figure 1.48), and the upper belt sheerstrake (Figure 1.40; Figure 2.38).

The fenders of the ends of the frames and the upper edges of the sheerstrake are closed from above on both sides with oak boards - gunwale (Figure 1.32; Figure 2.41), which are protected from the outside by a semicircular shoulder (Fig. 1.41), and the lower side is located on the belt, below the sheerstrake. The flanges are attached to the skin with screws, they cover the groove between the gunwale and the sheerstrake and protect the sides of the boat from impacts during mooring.

In the bottom of the boat in the area of ​​the rowing bank there is a hole with a screw-out brass plug (Fig. 1.47; Fig. 2.59, 2.60), which serves to drain the water accumulated at the bottom when lifting the boat.

The boat hull is equipped with various metal parts, serving to connect the parts of the set to each other.

When lowering and raising the boat on board the vessel, chain lifts (Fig. 1.36, 1.54; Fig. 2.20, 2.26), which consist of butt (fig. 2.22), tightly riveted to the keel, a shackle, a piece of chain and eye (Figure 2.19). The hooks of the boat hoists are laid behind the eyes. To prevent the boat from heeling during the descent (ascent), the bow eye is passed through the locking bar on the bow bank, which forms nose chain lift clip (Figure 2.28), and aft through a special hole in the aft seat, which forms holder of the stern chain volume (Fig. 2.28).

To install the mast in a vertical position and fix it on the mast bank, a basting (Figure 1.22; Figure 2.50) And nests (Figure 2.48) For pins (Fig. 1.23; Fig. 2.47), which are ordinary bolts with an oblong curly head. They are designed to secure basting and rigging gear.

Steps (Figure 1.38; Figure 2.14) attached to the kilson and serves to install the end (spur) of the mast.

On the inner edge of the fenders on the left and right sides, shaped rims are installed - shrouds (fig. 1.18; fig. 2.55). They serve to fasten shrouds (fig.2.58), holding the mast in a vertical position, as well as for laying and tightening fore-sheets (Figure 1.12; Figure 2.64), shaped headbands are also available on the knees medium can for bookmark jib sheets (Figure 1.16).

Hook on the stem (tack hook) (Figure 1.28; Figure 2.31) serves for upsetting and fastening the jib-tack.

On the inside of the fender there are ducks (Figure 1.12, 18) for jib sheet, fore sheet, as well as for fastening fenders when mooring.

The mooring device consists of nasal (Figure 1.30) And feed eye (Fig. 1.3; Fig. 2.67) to which fire is attached painter rope (rice 2.68) from vegetable and synthetic fibres.

Attached to the gunwale subkeys (Fig. 1.13; Fig. 2.51) With sockets for oarlocks (Figure 2.52). There are four banks in Yala: bow (Figure 1.35), tank (mast) (Figure 1.24), middle (Figure 1.20) and stern (stroke) (Figure 1.46).

To keep the boat on a given course or change the direction of its movement, it is used steering device (Figure 1.57). The steering wheel is hung in the diametrical plane on special rod (Figure 1.59), for which it is strengthened loop with forging (rice 1.58). To prevent the tiller from falling out, it is fastened with a pin connected by a chain with steering head (Fig. 1.5). IN rudder (Figure 1.60) available hole for sorlin (fig. 1.2)- a small line. One end of the weed, passed through the hole on the steering wheel, is closed with a knot - a button, and the other is tied to the eye on the sternpost.

Outside, in the bow from the stem, as well as on the transom board from the starboard and port sides, edging for weather vanes (Figure 1.56).

Overview of the Yala-6 model from LS Model (Russia)

Manufacturer: LS Model (Russia).
Model scale: 1:36.
Model length: 175 mm.
Model Height: 172 mm.
Model Width: 56 mm.
Material: wood, fabric, metal.
Source: http://karopka.ru/community/user/16133/?MODEL=450369.

Hello!
I want to present to your attention a set for assembly wooden model yala-6 with sailing equipment on a scale of 1:36 from the St. Petersburg company LS Model (LS Model).
First, information about the prototype from the kit manufacturer's website. Yal-6 or a six-oared yawl is a seaworthy boat with rake-slit sailing rigging, the main parts of which are spars - mast and battens, sails - fore and jib, standing rigging - gear for maintaining the spars, running rigging - gear for lifting and controlling sails.
A rowing and sailing yawl is designed to transport people or light cargo, to communicate between ships or ship-to-shore, and is also used for training or recreational purposes, driven by oars and sails. Most often used in inland waters or in the coastal zone of the seas. It has the following parameters: length - 6.11 m, width - 1.85 m, there is only one mast on a six-oared yawl, called the foremast and serves as a support for the sails. It is made of pine or spruce (glued), length is 5.5 m, sheathing is of the "clinker" type.

Now about the set itself. The main features of the set, in my opinion, are, firstly, large scale- 1/36, and secondly, clinker sheathing. As far as I know, at the time of release it was the first domestic set with clinker sheathing. The design of the slipway is also interesting. It is not internal, like the boats of Milan and Falconet, but external. On the one hand, it will apparently be more convenient to assemble the body kit accurately and without distortions. On the other hand, further, when sticking the skin, the set will not be fixed in any way, and most likely it will walk. In addition, in the future, the slipway can be turned over and the body can be installed on it by inserting the protrusions on the keel into special grooves.
Dimensions of the finished model: length 175 mm, width 56 mm, height 172 mm.
The set includes:

• Laser cut walnut, mahogany, anegri and plywood slips.
• Photo-etched brass plate.
• A piece of brass wire with a cross section of 0.9 mm.
• Two spools of thread for standing and running rigging
• Ready sewn sails.
• Assembly instructions.

Whole walnut plates. They are given a keel, frames, spars, oars and a stand. Sheathing is made of maccore veneer 0.6 mm. Maccore plate with gunwale, fish and transom, as well as anegri plate with keelson, podlegars, cans, shoulders, chucks and back board - glued from two layers of veneer (or rather, apparently welded with a film under a heat press). You will have to be careful when welding these parts with a hot-melt applicator, because. from heating, they can exfoliate.

The plate with photo-etching shows the fitting of the keel and stem, rudder loops, oarlocks, knees, eyes, hooks, ducks, dowels, etc.

I want to dwell on sails in detail. On the one hand, these are ready-made sewn sails with luffs, reef bows and a sewn-on lyktros. On the other hand, the stitching does not go along the longitudinal thread of the fabric, the luffs and reef bows are too wide even relative to the patterns from the instructions, the lyktros is sewn “into the coverage” and not through, and even on this scale it is already possible to sew sails from separate strips of fabric. In general, sails are very good for out-of-the-box assembly, and if you wish, you can sew your own according to the template given in the instructions.

For some reason, I came across both spools of thread in the set, both black, although in the photos of the assembly of the manufacturer, the running rigging is light. The threads are synthetic and quite shiny. Thick - three-strand, thin - two-strand.
After the release of the first edition, the manufacturer changed the design of the cover of the set, and also began to complete it with turned dowels of its own production. They are pictured at the end. I took the design from the Internet, and the manufacturer sent me the pins at my request.

On each bank of the six sit two rowers.

The six-oared yawl is used:

Yal- (from the Dutch. jol; 2 and 4-oared yawl is usually called a yawl) - this

The mast on the six-oared yawl is one, called the foremast, and serves as a support for the sails. Made from pine or spruce (glued). Mast length- 5.5 m. The lower end of the mast - the spur is made tetrahedral and sheathed with metal fittings for strength.

Guys serve to fasten the mast. They are made from a hemp cable with a circumference of 50 mm or a steel cable with a diameter of 4-6 mm. At both ends of the cables, there are thimbles - metal rings with grooves. The upper ends of the shrouds are attached to the butts of the yoke. Shterts are attached to the lower thimbles of the shterts - the ends of the line with a circumference of 25 mm, which serve as cable tal-reps for tightening and attaching the shtrands to the shunts. The length of the shrouds must be such that, when wrapped, the cable turnbuckle is no shorter than 20 cm. It is forbidden to shorten the shrouds with knots.

Foca-hal it is made of a vegetable cable with a circumference of 40 mm and is used to lift a rake with a sail. The root end of the halyard is attached to the butt of the rax-yoke, and the running end is passed through the pulley in the mast and attached to the dowel.

Rax-bougel -

Reek -

When raising the sail, the third line is put on with a point on the hook of the rax-yoke. The mast with shrouds and halyard is stored on cans in the centreline of the boat to the left of the sail. To install the spars in working position it is mandatory to have prepared dowels, the serviceability of shunts with lanyard tips, the absence of visible damage to the mast, step, mast can and folding basting mechanism.

To install the spars, rowers bring the rolled spars with the top mast to the stern,

The spur-mast is placed opposite the step, the basting is folded back.

Before raising the top mast, it is checked that the tubing thimble on the top mast must hang on the bottom

parts of the rims, the spars must be turned with the tack hook down (in the raised state, the yoke with

the tacking hook should be higher than the folding basting mechanism and turned with the hook towards the stern).

Then the top-mast is raised, the spur-mast is guided and installed in steps, then

the spar is installed vertically.

Once the spar has been placed vertically, it is necessary

close the tightly folding basting and fix it with a dowel. After that, both are untangled

shrouds and halyards. The shrouds are fastened with lanyard knots to the nearest shrouds.

Before hoisting the sails, you should check: tightness of the spars in the mechanism

hinged basting, the rax-yoke should be turned hook to starboard so that the halyard does not

wrapped the mast, and additionally check the integrity of the spars and rigging.

Collapsing of the spar is carried out by the command "cut the spar" before each removal

sailing equipment from a boat.

The spars are folded as follows: the free halyard is pulled out so that

so that the distance between the rax-yoke and the yoke with a tack hook is 0.5 - 0.8 m; both bathtubs and

the free end of the halyard is wrapped together around the mast in 3-4 turns; further shrouds and halyard

they are pulled together with a lanyard knot on a hook on a rax-yoke and a hook on a yoke with a tack hook; in such

position, the spar is removed, transferred and stored.

Sailing weapons Yal-6: jib, fork.

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Boats are small rowing, sailing and motor deckless vessels. They are made of wood, metal, plastics and rubber fabrics - inflatable. Boating helps physical development personnel, the development of strong-willed and maritime qualities in him - an eye, observation, sharpness, brings up perseverance in achieving the goal, instills a love for the sea.

In everyday life, ship's boats are used to communicate with the shore of the ship's personnel stationed in the roadstead, to perform various ship, hydrographic and diving operations, to deliver verps, to detonate floating mines, and also for rescue purposes. Depending on the design and dimensions rowboats are subdivided into barges, boats, whaleboats, yawls and tuziks.

Barges are the largest boats with sailing equipment and up to 22 oars. The length of the barge reaches 11.6 m, and the width is 3.4 m. They are used to transport a large number of people, deliver anchor anchors, etc. Currently removed With production.

Boats - have sailing equipment and from 10 to 16 oars. The length of the boat is 7.92 m, the width is 2.25 m. They are used to transport people and goods. Self-propelled boats with a deck are also called boats.

Whaleboats are narrow boats with a sharp bow and stern, which have high seaworthiness. They have sailing equipment and six oar oars. The length of the whaleboat is 8.54 m, the width is 1.83 m. Hermetically sealed air boxes are installed along the sides of the whaleboat, which allows them to stay afloat when completely flooded. The whaleboat is universally recognized, best type lifeboat. Special lifeboats of this type can be various sizes and driven by a hand-operated screw on the shaft.

Yala - six-, four- and two-oared boats. According to the number of regular oars they are called: sixes, fours and twos. Sixes (Fig. 40) are strong enough, light and seaworthy, have sailing equipment and oars. The length of the six is ​​6.1, the width is 1.9 m. It is used to transport a small number of people (on oars - 13, under sail - 8 people with winds up to 5 points in areas closed from waves), cargo, as well as for sports purposes and performing various shipboard works (delivery of mooring lines, verps, etc.). Fours have a length of 5.26, a width of 1.61 m, are equipped with sailing weapons and are intended for the same purposes as sixes. The deuces do not have sailing weapons. Their length is 3.55, width 1.25 m. They are intended for transportation of up to three people over short distances with sea conditions up to 2 points.

Fig 40. The device of a six-oared yawl 1 - keel, 2 - stem 3 - sternpost 4 - transom board 5 - frames 6 - sheathing, 7 - fender, 8 - gunwale, 9 - collar, 10 - podleprsy. 11 - bank, 12 - bow lattice hatch 13 - aft seat, 14 - knee, 15 - rack, 16 - kilson, 17 - cork, 18 - eye, 19 - breshguk; 20 - sheet pile belt: 21 - sheerstrake, 22 - steering wheel, 2? - eye, 24 - painter; 25 - forging, 26 - sub-key, 27 - basting, 28 - socket for the length of the dowel. 29 - wang-putens, 30 - shaped butt, 31 - butt with a hook, 32 - wind vane

Tuziks are short and wide boats, which are supplied with small ships and large sports yachts. They are operated by one person using two oars. The length of the dinghy is 2.45, the width is 1.12 m.

The main material for the manufacture of sailboats is wood. The set of longitudinal and transverse bars representing the frame of the boat is called a set. The set is based on an oak beam - a keel, the continuation of which in the bow of the boat is a vertical beam - stem, and in the stern - a vertical beam - sternpost. On all boats, except for whaleboats, a transom board is attached to the sternpost.

The transverse fastening of the set is the frames, which are attached to the keel through 25-30 cm from one another. The skin is attached to the frames with rivets. The first line of sheathing boards included in the keel sheet pile is called the sheet pile, and the uppermost sheathing strip is called the sheerstrek. On the inner side of the upper part of the frames on both sides, an oak fender is laid, which gives the boat longitudinal strength. The ends of the frames, the top line of the sheerstrake and top part fenders are covered with an oak gunwale, which is protected from the outside with a collar.

On the inside of the boat, slightly above the design waterline, oak beams are laid along the sides - underlegs, on which banks, a bow lattice hatch and aft seat are superimposed. The cans and the aft seat are attached to the podlegars and the fender with the help of metal squares - knits. From below, the banks are supported by racks. The fenders and underlegs in the bow of the boat are firmly connected to each other and to the bow, and in the stern - to the stern-post (on whaleboat-type boats) or to the transom board.

In the bow of the boat, the fenders of both sides are connected by a large metal knit - a breshtuk. On top of the keel inside the boat, a removable oak beam - knlson is superimposed, on which there are steps for installing masts and nests for racks supporting cans. The keelson is attached to the keel with pins with pins.

The bottom of the boat is closed with removable shields - fish, having stops for the legs of the rowers. In the stern, the bottom is closed by a stern lattice hatch. All boats, except lifeboats and barges, have a back board, which is installed parallel to the transom board at a distance of 30–45 cm from it.

The boat is controlled by a rudder, which is hung in the diametrical plane on a special hook and loop or on a metal rod mounted on a sternpost or transom board.

The hull of the boat is equipped with various metal parts that serve to fasten parts of the boat to each other, fasten spars, standing and running rigging, lifting the boat on board, etc. There is a hole with a plug in the bottom of each boat in the area of ​​the rowing bank, which serves to drain water when lifting the boat. The boats are equipped with lifting chain eyes, which are firmly attached through the keel in the bow and stern. Rings are inserted into the stem and stern for fastening the painter. A metal strip is superimposed on the keel and stem - a fitting that protects them from damage during possible impacts when mooring the boat. To install a stern flag, a clip is attached to the inside of the stern gunwale, and under it on the stern - a seat - a shoe.

To the gunwale are attached sub-locks with sockets, and below the fender inside the boat to the side - steps, which include the lower ends of the oarlocks. To fix the masts in a vertical position, bastings are strengthened on the mast banks, next to which nests for dowels are embedded. Nagels are bolts with an oblong curly head. They serve to secure the basting and rigging gear.

On the inner edge of the fenders, shaped rims, called vant putens, are attached. They serve to fasten the shrouds holding the mast. The shaped butts, which are used for laying and tightening the fore-sheets, are reinforced in the aft part on the gunwale of the port and starboard sides. At the junction of the gunwale with the stem, a butt with a hook is inserted to secure the tack jib.

Outside, in the bow to the left and right of the stem, as well as on the transom board to the left and right of the rudder, edging for weathervanes is strengthened. The wind vane is a figure of a certain shape and color. Each ship and organization has a wind vane assigned to it for its watercraft.

The boats are supplied with items necessary for navigation: oars, tillers, rebate hooks, oarlocks, watering cans, anchors, semaphore flags, an anchor (drek with a drek), dowels, etc.

One of the main supplies are oars. On whaleboats and lifeboats, oar oars are used, and on all other types of boats - roller oars. On deuces and tuziks, both roller and swing pair oars can be used. They are called paired because one person can row two oars.

The roller paddle has the following names of parts: handle, roller, spindle and blade. One side of the blade has a face - for strength, the second (working) side of the blade is smooth. The correct position of the oar when rowing is with the working side in the stern. The blade of the oar has a metal fitting, which protects it from splitting. To protect the spindle from chafing, that part of it that lies on the oarlock during rowing is sheathed with leather.

All oars must be carefully banked, fitted, balanced and marked in place. The longest oars are for medium rowers, somewhat shorter for rowers and even shorter for bow rowers. The oar is balanced by means of lead poured into specially drilled holes in the roller. A balanced oar lies horizontally in the oarlock if a weight of 4 kg is hung on the handle. Oars are marked by applying Roman numerals on the roller. Usually the numbers are cut And painted over with red (left side) and green (right side) paint.

Oars are stacked on cans along the sides of the boat: roller - with blades in the bow, swing and paired - with blades in the stern.

2. Yala sailing equipment

Any sailing equipment consists of spars, rigging And sails. There are many types of sailing rigs: spruit (sprit), Latin, Portuguese, Bermuda, rake, etc. Each of them can be adopted by a certain type of boat. Due to their simplicity, the most widely used rake split sailing equipment, which is used on all boats, except for lifeboats and longboats.

Rack split sailing rigging can be single-masted (on sixes, fours and whaleboats) and two-masted (on boats).

With single-masted armament, the sail is called a split foresail and consists of two sails - foresail and jib, mounted on a common rail (Fig. 41). On boats, the mast is called the foremast.

The upper end of the mast is called the top; a yoke with butts for fastening the guys is mounted on it. A hole is cut a little below the yoke in the middle of the mast, into which a pulley for a halyard is inserted. The lower end of the mast is bound with iron and is called a spur. A hook is inserted into the mast 10 cm above the place where the basting covers it, from the back side for attaching the tack angle of the foreground.

Rice. 41. Sailing armament of a six-oared yal: 1 - lyktros; 2 - tack angle; 3 - clew; 4 - front knock-benzel angle; 5 - rear knock-benzel angle; 6 - benzel corners; 7 - krengels; 8 - slack line; 9 - benzels; 10 - bows; 11 - boots; 12 - reef-shters; 13 - krengels

The shrouds are made of white plant cable. The upper ends of the shrouds have closed thimbles, with the help of which the shrouds are attached to the yoke. The lower ends have goggles with thimbles, into which pins are woven, which serve to fasten the shrouds to the shunts.

The sails are edged with lyktros on all sides. The edges of the sails are called luffs (front, back, top and bottom). Each corner of the sail has its own specific name: lower forward - tack angle, lower rear - clew, upper front at the jib - front knock-benzel angle, upper rear at the fore - rear knock-benzel angle, upper rear at the jib and upper front at fock - benzel corners.

When edging the luffs with lyktros, crengels with thimbles are closed in the lower corners of the sails. Tacks are embedded in the krengels of tack angles: jib-tack and fore-tack. The jib-tack is attached to the hook at the stem, and the fore-tack is attached to the hook on the mast above the basting.

Sheets are inserted into the crengels of the clew angles: jib-sheet and fore-sheet, which are the main gear for sail control. The length of the left and right sheets should be the same and quite sufficient for different sail positions. For fastening the sails to the rail along the length of the upper luff there are holes - eyelets through which the slackline is threaded. Knock-benzel corners of the sails are attached to the rail with the help of a benzel. In places of greatest tension on both sides of the sails, pieces of canvas are sewn - bows and bows, which increase the strength of the sail.

With a squally wind, it may be necessary to reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sails. For this purpose, the sails are equipped with reefs, which are a series of strings threaded through the sail. With reefed sails, tacks and sheets are attached to additional, specially designed krengels, tied into the leech of the forefoot and the leech of the jib.

The stern flag assigned to the boat is attached to the leech of the forefoot at the top, and below it is a flag with the image of a weather vane. In the rear knock-benzel corner, quadrangular pieces of canvas are sewn on both sides, on which the racing number of the boat is written in black paint.

The sails of the upper luff are attached to the rail, which has an overlay in the upper part to strengthen the fortress, which is called the scale (from the scale). The rack is connected to the scale with the help of benzels. At a distance of 1/3 of the length of the rake from the front leg, a third line of flexible steel cable is attached to the rake, with the help of which the rake with the sail rises to the mast. The foca-halyard, which serves to raise the sail, is threaded through a cutout with a pulley in the upper part of the mast. A rax-yoke is attached to the root end of the halyard, on the hook of which a third line of the rail is put on. After lifting the rake, the fore-halyard is attached to the left dowel inserted into the nest of the mast can.

Sheets are used to steer the sails.

The jib sheets are carried outside the shrouds. Foka-sheets are carried along the sides and passed through shaped rims fixed on the gunwale near the back board.

3. Initial training for rowers

The oars should be adjusted so that the rowers sitting on the same bank do not interfere with each other (the distance between the handles of the oars should be about 15 cm). When rowing, one hand of the rower lies on the roll, and the other holds the oar by the handle. In order for the hand lying on the roll to apply more force, it needs to hold the oar more firmly. With a standard thickness of the roll, not everyone succeeds, so sometimes the end of the roll is cut into a cone to the handle.

The leg rests are positioned so that the rower's legs are slightly bent at the knees, and the knees are slightly below the hip joints. On the stops, you can make a construction of canvas, into which the rower could pass half his feet. The line will keep the rower from falling back.

Oarlocks are also adjusted to the nests. They should enter the nests freely, rotate without jamming, but not hang out in them.

Rowers sitting on the rowing bank are called rowers. They are appointed from among the strongest and most enduring sailors. Bow rowers, on the other hand, must be distinguished by dexterity so as not to interfere with the action of other rowers by their oversight.

The order in which the rowers board the boat depends on the location of the boat. If she stands with her nose to the ladder, then the foreman sits down first, followed by rowing rowers, after rowing rowers - middle rowers (rowers of the middle bank), and then - bowmen. If the landing is made from the stern, then the tanks enter first, followed by all the rest in order of the numbers of the cans. The foreman of the boat sits down last.

When the boat is moored side by side to the pier, when it is possible to land both from the bow and from the stern at the same time, landing is carried out in the following order: the starboard rowers enter from the stern, starting from the forecastle, and the port rowers enter from the bow, starting from the stroke. The captain of the boat in all cases sits down last.

The exit of the rowers is carried out in the reverse order.

Rowers are boarded on command. "Rowers - on the boat!", and exit from the boat on command "Rowers - get out of the boat!" Having taken his place in the boat, each rower cleans the shaft of his oarlock, at the same time they are released from the oar fastening. The rowing and bow side of the side that faces the pier or the ship prepare repulsion hooks for pulling or pushing the boat and put them on top of the spar. The second rowing hangs the steering wheel. The foreman inspects the supply of the boat, inserts the tiller into the rudder head, sits on the starboard stern square, placing his legs between the transom and dorsal boards, and sets the flag. When towing boats, the flag is raised only on the last boat.

Exemplary order must be observed on the boat. Rowers are prohibited from walking on the cans, leaning on the gunwale, putting their hands and elbows overboard, sitting lounging on the stern seat or grated hatch, talking and making noise. At air temperatures above +14 °C, rowers must be without shoes. The uniform established by the captain of the boat is obligatory for all rowers. After performing all their landing duties, the rowers sit in their seats in the “at attention” position (facing the stern, hands on their knees). When boarding the boat, rowers are required to clean their shoes from dust and dirt.

Rowing training is carried out on a boat, fixed by a stern painter to a pier or barrel. Initially, the landing of the rowers, the insertion of the oarlocks, the disassembly of the oars, the skidding of the oars and the correct position of the rowers' hull, the correct stroke with the oar and the actions on the command “Sabbath!” A more stable position of the rower's body will be if he sits on the bank, occupying 3/4 of its width.

After the rowers have mastered the correct execution of all techniques, you can continue practicing rowing on the move, while simultaneously introducing the rowers to the execution of other commands. At the initial stage of training, rowers should work out the actions of the following commands:

"Insert oarlocks!" Rowers turned sideways To to their sides, with an external hand, insert the oarlocks into the sockets so that they are deployed along the gunwale.

Rice. 42. The position of the calves in the boat: a - on the command "One!"; b - at the end of the stroke

"Disassemble the oars!" rowers inner hand they take their oar by the handle, and pass the outer arm under the oar so that the vale is on the elbow bend. Using the elbow bend as the axis of the lever, they press the handle and put the oar blade on the gunwale behind the second oarlock, considering their first. The rolls of the oars must be pressed against the side at the height of the gunwale. The hull of the rowers is turned half-turned to its side, and the head is turned towards the blade of its oar.

"Oars!" Equal to the rowing rows, the rowers raise the oars at the elbow bend, bring them perpendicular to the diametrical plane of the boat and insert them into the oarlocks in the middle of the “skin”. The freed outer hand is placed with the palm on the vale so that the hands lie palms down shoulder-width apart. The blade of the oar should be turned side with the edge up and have a slight slope towards the water.

"On water once!" (Fig. 42, a). Aligning with the rowers, the rowers tilt their bodies, stretch their arms forward, quickly bring the blades of the oars towards the bow of the boat, while breathing in. To reduce air resistance, the blades during skidding should go horizontally, and only at the end, with the movement of the hands, the oar turns away from itself so that the front edge of the blade has a slight inclination to the water. The rower's legs are bent at the knees, the head is raised.

"Two!" The rowers simultaneously lower the blades 2/3 into the water and, leaning back with their bodies, force the blade through the water, while exhaling. When performing this technique, the back muscles take on the main load, the arms in the first phase of the stroke are in an extended state. After the torso has passed the vertical position, the arms are bent and With pull the handle of the oar to the chest with force, the legs straighten (Fig. 42, b).

During the stroke, the blade should go in the water in a vertical position and be removed from it in the same position. Having finished the stroke, the oar is turned towards itself, so that when it is skidded for the next stroke, the edge of the blade facing the bow is slightly higher than the edge facing the stern. At the end of the drift, the blade turns for a new stroke. After performing the reception on the account "Two!" immediately follows the command “One!”, on which the oars are skidded for a new stroke.

In training, gradually increasing the count, they move on to rowing without separation and bring it to a normal rhythm.

The fastest rowing rhythm on sixes and fours was 30-36, and on barges and boats 26-30 strokes per minute.

When approaching the side of the ship, to the pier and in other cases when it is necessary to remove the oars, a command is given "Sabbath!" Fulfilling this command, the rowers put the elbow of the outer arm under the oar shaft and, pressing the handle with the other hand, take the oars out of the oarlocks, bring them with the blades to the bow and without noise, but quickly lay them to the sides. The side oars are laid first, then the rowers of the middle bank and, finally, the rowers.

Immediately after laying the oars, the oarlocks are removed.

Rowers must be able to row on different banks and on both sides.

In order to move the boat forward when moving away from the ship (pier), the command “Stretch!” is given. On this command, the rowing and bow side of the side that is closer to the ship or pier are pulled forward with repulsive hooks. When the boat has acquired a course, the foreman shifts the rudder from the side of the ship or pier, gives the command "Push your nose!" along which the tank hook, continuing to stretch with a long repulsive hook, pushes the nose with force, and the repulsive hooks are placed on the spar cover.

4. Basic commands when rowing

For a trained and trained team of rowers, when the boat departs, a command may be given "Back off!" It combines the actions of the rowers in four commands: “Stretch!”, “Push the nose!”, “Insert oarlocks!” and “Disassemble the oars!” (on boats with swing oars, at this command, rowers perform actions at the command “Oars!”). Having looked over the sides, the commander gives the following two commands known to us: "Oars!" And "To the water!"

The boat commander must give commands clearly, in a loud voice, and always at the moment when the oar blades are in the water and have not yet been brought to the traverse. The given command is executed by the rowers after the end of the stroke.

To temporarily stop rowing, a command is given "Sushi paddles!", along which rowers raise their blades out of the water And align them in a horizontal position parallel to the surface of the water. In this case, the oars are installed perpendicular to the diametrical plane of the boat with the non-working side of the blade up.

To reduce the speed of the boat or to stop it completely, a command is given "Oars in water!" At this command, the rowers lower 1/3 of the blade with an edge into the water and, holding the roller at chest height, lean on it with their bodies. After reaching the goal, depending on the situation, a command is given "Sushi paddles!" or "Sabbath!"

"Taban both!" By to this command, the rowers simultaneously bring the oars to the stern, lower the blades into the water and begin to row in the opposite direction, giving the boat a backward stroke. This maneuver is also practiced in two counts: on the count “One!” the blades of the oars are brought to the stern, according to the account "Two!" - they are lowered into the water by 2/3 and held in a vertical position to the bow of the boat. This command should never be given with the boat moving forward.

"Oars on board!" On this command, rowers simultaneously And quickly bring the blades to the stern (when the boat moves back - to the bow) so that they are pressed against the board in a vertical position. To resume rowing, the command “Sushi oars!”

"Pushed in!" or "It's easier to row!" These commands are given to increase or decrease the speed of the boat. When these commands are executed, the established rowing pace does not change.

"Oars on the roll!" The rowers, without getting up, take the oars out of the oarlocks and place them vertically with the blades up, turning the blades along the boat. The outer hand of the rower, extended along the boat, holds the oar by the "skin", and the other hand by the vale. The body of the rower should be straight, and the head should be turned towards the stern. This command is given on boats with roll oars to greet superiors, when passing especially narrow places, the finish line at races, and also when a large number of people board the boat.

As soon as the need for this technique passes, they give the command “Oars!”

"Take care of the oars!" The command is given when there is fear that the oars may be damaged by hitting an object. Rowers carefully monitor the blade of their oar, if necessary, pull the oar into the boat a little or raise the blade, skipping the stroke.

"Oars under spars!”(on boats with rollers) or "Oars under gunwale!" (on boats with oar oars). These commands are served for recreation. The rowers, without removing the oars from the oarlocks, lay their handles under the spar cover (the handles of the oar oars are laid under the gunwale of the opposite side). The blades must be raised horizontally at the same level. Both of these commands are given from the position corresponding to the command “Sushi paddles!” After the rest, the command “Oars!” is given, according to which the rowers take a position corresponding to the command “Sushi oars!”

When refloating the boat or passing through shallow areas, a command is given "Oars for an injection!" By to this command, the rowers raise the oars with the blades up, lower them into the water and, resting the handles of the oars on the ground, try to move the boat off the shoal. To continue rowing, the command “Oars!” etc.

A command given without specifying a side applies to all rowers, and a command preceded by the word "right" or "left" applies only to the rowers of the corresponding side.

5. Boat control on oars

When the boat is at the ladder, then on it With the ship is supplied with a cable, which is attached by a boat assembly to the rowing bank. The bow painter is fastened with an earring for a cable supplied from the ship. When the boat departs at the command “Give the painter!” the tank side farthest from the ship quickly gives up the earring and lays the painter on the bow lattice hatch.

At the command "Back off!" the rowers of the side closest to the ship pull the boat forward, using a cable supplied from the ship. When the boat gets underway and its stern passes the gangway, the bowman pushes the bow with force with a repulsive hook, puts the repulsive hook on the spars and takes his place on the bank. At the same time, the rowboat of the side farthest from the ship gives up the cable supplied from the ship, and the foreman shifts the rudder away from the ship. The rudder is shifted with the expectation of a clean passage of the stern of the boat along the side of the ship. All rowers insert oarlocks and dismantle the oars. When the boat moves away from the side by the length of the oar, the command “Oars!” etc.

If the boat was secured only by the bow painter, the rowers stretch out, holding on to the gangway with their hands or repulse hooks. There may be various situations, interfering with the normal withdrawal of the boat - downwind, strong swell, cramped conditions, etc. In each individual case, the boat commander must quickly make the right decision for a safe withdrawal, without risking the integrity of the boat and without endangering the rowers.

When the boat moves in a straight course, the given direction is kept by a distant immovable object, by a compass or alignment. Occurring deviations from the course, the foreman of the boat immediately corrects with a slight turn of the rudder.

The control of the boat on a distant object lies in the fact that its stem must always be kept in alignment with the object.

When navigating by compass, you should always keep the forward course line at a given card reading. If the heading line deviates to the right of the given course, it means that the bow of the boat falls off to the right, and vice versa. To bring it to a given course, it is necessary to shift the steering wheel in the direction opposite to the course line deviation. When driving a boat, it should be remembered that each sharp change in course leads to a loss of speed, and each zigzag leads to a lengthening of the route.

Alignment control is considered the most accurate and convenient. As a target, you can use two coastal objects that are distant from each other, located on the same line with the course of the boat. They steer in such a way as to keep the boat on the line of the chosen alignment. If the leading signs or objects chosen as the alignment begin to diverge, then you need to change the course V the side in which the near (front) sign departed from the far (rear).

When sailing in the current, it is necessary to position the course of the boat so as to reach the intended point in the shortest way. The drift angle will depend on the speed of the current, the speed of the boat and other factors. It is selected empirically, in accordance with the situation, but in each case the course is located at a certain angle to the current. Following the flow along the alignments, the bow of the boat will not be directed to the alignment.

Often there is a need to sharply change course, turn around with the help of oars in place, stop the movement of the boat, etc. To make a quick turn, a command is given “Right (left) - into the water!” At the presence of movement, the steering wheel is shifted V side of the same side. At the end of the turn, the command “Both - to the water!” Is given - If necessary, to turn the boat on the spot, the rowers of each side can be given a separate command. The first command is usually given to starboard. In this case, commands should be given: “Right taban!” (or “Right to the water!”), “Left to the water!”

The approach of the boat to the ship is carried out from the stern at an angle of 30–40 ° to its centreline. Given the inertia of the movement, the command "Sabbath!" and direct the boat parallel to the course of the ship.

The rowing hook of the side closest to the ship with a rebate hook delays the stern of the boat at the gangway, and the bow ones receive a cable from the ship for fastening.

The approach to the pier (wall) is carried out in the same way. Having approached the pier, they hold the boat with repulsive hooks and send one of the tanks ashore to receive and fasten the painters.

When approaching a ship in clear weather, keep the boat at such a distance from the side that it is possible to use the oars. Team "Shabash!" is served after the boat has received and secured the cable supplied from the ship. It is recommended to approach the ship from the lee side. To protect against breakage of the shoulder, gunwale or side, fenders are suspended at the points of contact of the boat with the side of the ship or the gangway, for which a command is given "Right(port) side - fenders overboard!

In fresh weather, it is better for boats to approach the bakshtov, which is a vegetable cable or a synthetic fiber cable, the root end of which is fixed at the stern of the ship. Parking on the backshtov is convenient because the boat is closed from the wind and swell by the ship's hull. When several boats are parked on the backboard, each of them is attached to it independently with the help of a bow painter with a locking knot. A reliable brand is superimposed on the running end of the painter.

6. Boat handling under sail

The setting of the spars should be carried out at a distance from the shore, ship or shoal, so that during this time the boat is not blown away by the wind. If, before setting the spars, the boat is at oars, then it is turned with its bow to the wind and the command “Sabbath, set the spars!”

The rowers sabbat, transfer to the sides (over their heads) the retractable hooks lying on the spar cover and securely grab everything with the pins to which the oarlocks are attached.

At the command "Turn the spars!" the rowers turn the spar 180° clockwise, unlace the spar cover and, following the same repeated command, turn the spar 180° counterclockwise again.

At the command "Remove the cover!" lift the spars from the stern, remove the cover, put it in a bag and place it on the aft grating hatch.

On command "Disassemble the spar!" rowers carry a sail with a rake over their heads to starboard.

On command “Get ready to set the spars!” the rowers of the mast bank throw back the basting, while others serve the foremast to the stern so that the spur of the mast falls over the steps.

At the command "Rangout bet!" rowers put up the mast, fixing it with a basting with a dowel, tighten the shrouds, transfer the sails over their heads to the middle, roll them out, put a third line of the rake on the hook of the rax-yoke and base the sheets, carrying them outside the shrouds. The master of the boat replaces the curved tiller with a straight one and removes the flag.

When performing the above commands, the rowers are in their places.

With the help of the rudder, the boat is driven to the wind and the command is given "On the ropes!" The rowers appointed according to the schedule take. in the hands of halyards, sheets, tacks and lightly grab the tacks of the sails. On command "Raise the sails!" the halyards are selected and securely fastened to the dowel located on the mast bank, the tacks are upset, the sheets are disassembled and all the rowers sit on the fish facing the sail. One of the bow rowers is appointed lookout, who reports on everything seen ahead of the boat's course and from the windward side.

The foreman of the boat sits on the stern seat With windward side.

When raising the sails, it is necessary that the sheets and tacks are pulled apart, otherwise the batten will not reach the place and the sails will not stand well.

On a boat under sail, the following basic rules must be followed:

when setting and cleaning sails and spars, rowers are prohibited from getting up;

all rowers, except for the lookout, should sit on the fish facing the sail, in this position, in the event of a capsizing of the boat, the rowers will not be covered by the sail;

sheets should always be kept in hand and be ready to quickly etch them in the event of a squall; fastening the sheets is strictly prohibited.

To clean the sails and spars, the boat is brought to the wind and commanded: "On the ropes!" At this command, the rowers of the mast can carefully release the extra halyard hoses from the dowel and hold the ends of the halyard in their hands.

On command "Sails off!" the halyards are etched. The sails released during the descent are picked up by the hands of the rowers to the rail. After lowering the sail, the rowers take their places on the banks, give the halyards, sheets, tacks and shrouds, grabbing the latter along with the halyards to the mast, roll the sail to the rail and transfer it to the starboard side. The foreman of the boat replaces the straight tiller with a curved one and places the flag.

At the command "Drop the basting!" the rowers of the mast bank, holding the mast with their hands, take out the dowel and throw back the basting. All rowers are preparing to cut the spars.

At the command "Rangout to cut!" the foremast is lowered and placed on the banks with a spur to the bow of the boat.

At the command "Cover!" starboard rowers put on a cover, turn over the spars, lace up the cover and turn the spars over again, after which they transfer it over their heads to a regular place.

Setting and cleaning of spars and sails must be carried out quickly and accurately.

Usually the direction of the wind is determined by the compass, but regardless of this, the direction of the wind is distinguished relative to the course of the boat. When determining the direction of the wind, it must be remembered that the wind “blows into the compass”, i.e., its direction must be taken from the windward side of the compass card. So when determining the direction of the wind relative to the course of the boat, they look at where the wind enters the boat. The bow of the boat is taken as zero of the reading scale (Fig. 43).

The wind blowing directly or almost directly into the bow of the boat is called opposite (sector 1). The wind is called badewind if it blows in the range from 10 to 80 ° to the center plane of the boat (sectors 2 and 3). From 10 to 60° the hauled wind is called steep (sectors 4 and 5), and from 60 to 80° is called full (sectors b and 7). If the wind blows within an angle of 80 - 100 °, then it is called gulfwind (sectors 8 and 9). The wind blowing within an angle of 100–170° is called a backstay (sectors 10 and 11), and the backstay is called full if the wind blows within an angle of 150–170° (sectors 12 and 13). The wind is called gybe if it blows aft within the range from 170° starboard to 170° port (sector 14).

To indicate the position of the boat relative to the direction of the wind, the name of the tack is added to the wind names listed above. If the wind is blowing to starboard, the boat is on starboard tack; if the wind is blowing to port, the boat is on port tack.

Correct use wind force in any direction relative to the diametrical plane of the boat is achieved by the most appropriate arrangement of sails. If the wind blows directly into the stern, it is advisable to put the sails perpendicular to the direction of the wind, and so that the rear sail does not cover the front one, they are positioned as a butterfly - one is taken out to the left and the second to the starboard side. If the boat goes backstay, the sheets should be selected so that the luffs of the sails begin to rinse.

Rice. 43. Name of wind directions acting on the boat (by sector numbers): 1 - nasty; 2, 3 - badewind; 4, 5 - close-hauled; 6.1 - full haul; 8, 3 - gulfwind; 10, 11 - backstay; 12, 13 - full backstay; 14 - jibe

When the boat is moving with the wind, the half sails should bisect the angle between the wind line and the center line of the boat.

With a close-hauled line, the sheets are tightened to such an extent that the luffs of the sails begin to rinse a little. It must be remembered that when the wind is steeper than 40-45 ° to the diametrical plane, the boat cannot go forward.

When sailing a boat, very much; it is important to feel the wind, that is, to imagine its direction relative to the boat and its strength. It is also necessary to be able to imagine the mutual action of the rudder, sails and trim of the boat on the operation of each sail separately. A properly trimmed boat, sailing in hauled or gulfwind, should be barely noticeably driven with the rudder in a straight line.

Wind direction is not constant. If the wind changes direction towards the bow of the boat, they say that the wind is coming in, and if towards the stern, the wind is moving away. If the boat, changing its course, approaches the wind direction line, they say that it is driven (goes steeper, rises), and if its bow moves away from this line, it bears away (goes fuller, descends).

You can change the direction of the boat with the help of the rudder and sails. Let us assume that the boat is sailing in gulfwind, the rudder is straight and the sheets of both sails are equally covered, observing the above rules. In this case, the sails, moving the boat forward, act in concert and the wind pressure on their area is balanced. If now the jib-sheets are loosened, and the fore-sheets are selected, then the coordinated action of the sails will be violated, the stern, under the influence of wind pressure on the forefoot, will begin to bear downwind and the boat will be driven.

Correctly using the force and direction of the wind, having a training team, it is quite possible to move away (approach) from the side of the ship, the pier or take off from the back under sail.

8. Straight ahead and turns

The path of the boat to the destination depends on the direction of the wind. In case of a weak tailwind, especially downstream, it is recommended to go full backstay, changing tacks. The speed of the boat on the jibe course is usually less than on the backstay course. On the jibe course, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the forefoot does not spontaneously shift to another tack, which can lead to breakage of sheets, shrouds, breakage of the mast and even capsizing of the boat.

To reduce yaw and slightly increase the speed on long jibe courses, the sails can be positioned with a "butterfly". Setting the sails with a "butterfly" is performed in the following order. An oar handle is attached to the clew angle of the forefoot, on which the forefoot is carried to the starboard side at an angle of 90 ° to the wind line. The clew of the jib is fixed with jib-sheets to the can at the mast, the jib-tack is released, the repelling hook is inserted into the jib's tack crengels and it is carried out to the port side. The hook is attached to the jar or white-putence in a horizontal position.

With a wind force of more than 4 points, it is not recommended to set the sails with a "butterfly". To put the sails on one tack, first remove the hook, fasten the jib-tack in place and give the jib sheets. Then the oar supporting the forefoot is removed and the boat is turned in the right direction, fitting the jib and foresheets.

When sailing a boat, it is often necessary to change course. If the boat after this remains on the same tack, then they say that she went down or went up. If the boat has changed tack, then they say that the boat has made a turn. There are two types of turn: tack and jibe.

A tack turn is a turn in which the boat, changing tack, must cross the wind line with its bow (Fig. 44). This turn is safe, requires little time and space, but in light wind or heavy seas it is not always possible. Before turning the tack, it is necessary to give the boat as much movement as possible, for which they lower it a little.

Let us assume that the boat is sailing in close-hauled starboard tack (position I) and intends to tack. At the command "Tack!" the crew of the boat increases their attention and prepares for the turn.

Rice. 44. Tack

At the command “Pull the fock-sheets!” the fore-sheet is tight. The steering wheel is gradually placed in the direction of the turn - into the wind (position II).

The command "Jib-sheets to pull apart!" is given as soon as the bow of the boat moves towards the wind line (position III). At this command, the jib sheet is pulled apart and, when the bow of the boat approaches the wind line, the rudder is abruptly put in the direction of the turn. When the bow of the boat is in the wind line, the command “Jib to port!” is given, according to which the jib sheet is selected on the side on which it was before the start of the turn (position IV). According to the report of the rower sitting on the jib-sheet, “The jib has taken away,” the command is given: “Pull the fock-sheet!” The fore-sheet is pulled, the rudder is laid straight (position V). At this time, one jib is working, bearing the bow of the boat in the direction of the turn. When the boat bears away to full badewind, the command is given "Jib and fore-sheets to starboard, pull the sheets!" Execution of this command (position VI) ends the tacking maneuver, the boat lies down on a new tack.

A jibe is such a turn when the boat, changing tack, crosses the wind line astern (Fig. 45). This turn requires more time and space, but always succeeds. During a fresh wind, jibing is dangerous, as with inept steering the boat can capsize.

Rice. 45. Turn through the wind

Let's assume that the boat is sailing in starboard tack (position I) and intends to gybe. The command “Turn through the gybe!” is given, according to which the team increases their attention and prepares for the turn. To make the boat roll faster downwind under the action of the jib, a command is given "Fock sheet to poison!" Foka sheet is poisoned and immediately sharply put the rudder under the wind - to the left (position II).

When approaching Gulfwind, a command is given "Jib-sheet to poison!" The jib sheet is etched gradually, depending on the speed of the bow of the boat in the direction of the turn (position III).

When the stern approaches the wind line, a command is given "Fokk mast!" At this command, the foresail for the lower luff is assembled to the mast, reducing the windage so that when the stern line of the wind passes, the sail does not abruptly throw over to the other side. When the wind is weak, the foresail is not taken to the mast, and when the stern approaches the wind line, the fore-sheet is pulled so that at the moment the wind line passes, the sail is in the diametrical plane of the boat (position IV).

When the boat came to another tack, the command "Cleaver And fore-sheets on the right! The sails are carefully transferred to another tack (position V).

In the opposite wind, you have to go into a close-hauled, periodically changing tacks. This movement of the boat in a zigzag is called tacking. When tacking, the ability to correctly position the tacks, walk steeply to the wind, while making turns is required. The art of tacking is to move against the wind with tacks, not to deviate far from the general direction, to keep the boat on the tail of the passing current, not to go into the wind shadow, etc. Following as close as possible to the wind line, without losing speed, it must be remembered that with close hauled sheets should be chosen to such an extent that the luffs of the sails begin to rinse a little.

When tacking, overstay turns should be used, as this gains time and distance. It is important to be able to determine whether the boat will go one tack to the intended point (object) or not. This is determined by co-creating the intended object with some distant object. If the boat is not blown off the line of alignment of these two objects, then it will reach the intended sign (object) on this tack.

If, while tacking, the boat went out of the wind and lost speed, you need to quickly select the jib sheet from the windward side and ease the fore sheet. When the bow of the boat falls down into the wind, they choose the fore-sheet and, having taken the course, lie down on desired course.

To drift means to position the sails so that the boat does not have forward motion. This maneuver is used while waiting for another boat, at the start before races, etc., and is performed as follows. The jib-sheet of the windward side is selected to failure, and the fore-sheet is the lee side, then they are driven by the rudder, the tiller is removed and the rudder is left in an arbitrary position. In this position, the jib will tend to tilt the bow, and the foresail will force the boat to be driven. When removed from the drift, a tiller is inserted and the fore-sheet is etched. Under the action of the jib, the bow of the boat will begin to bear away. When the boat is in the badewind position, the jib is transferred to the leeward side and the fore-sheet is pulled together.

A squall is a sudden increase in wind. When a squall approaches, the sails and spars should be removed and the squall should be met at the oars, bow to the wind. If a squall came unexpectedly, then at the heading of the backstay, one should etch the sheets and descend, and at the heading of the hauled wind, it should be driven.

When the wind increases, it is necessary to reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sails, that is, take reefs. To take the reefs in time means to show marine literacy. If the boat begins to heel strongly and draw water on board, then further movement with unreefed sails becomes dangerous. To take the reefs, the boat is brought to the wind and the command is given “On the foka-hale, fork Down with!" and then "Two (one) reefs to take!" The rowers pick up the sails from the luff and grab it with reef-shingles, tying them with a reef knot. The tacks and sheets are shifted to the corresponding krengels of the sail. Then the foreman gives the command "On fall!" and "Raise the sails!" The lower (rolled) luff of the sail should be at the level of the gunwale.

You can give up reefs without lowering the sails. After the return of the reefs, the boat is brought to the wind and the sails are raised to the place, shifting the tacks and sheets to their regular krengels.