If you are thinking of making a plywood box with your own hands, decorative or household, better material than plywood is not to be found. Racks, boxes for vegetables, shelves for shoes or plywood tools can withstand heavy loads, but they look quite aesthetically pleasing.
Plywood can be taken in different thicknesses, depending on the purpose, it is easy to process, and its original qualities are preserved. long time during operation.
Special attention should be paid to decorative plywood boxes, carved boxes and caskets, which are decorated with carved patterns and drawings. It is easiest to make such a box out of plywood.
Choose the right material when starting work. LLC Stroytekhmontazh on faneramonolit.ru/katalog-fanery/fanera-hvojnaja/ offers its customers coniferous plywood High Quality which you can use in your work.
Making a plywood box with your own hands is not so difficult. Let's take a closer look at the manufacturing process of such a box from the selection of tools to decorative finishing products.
Do-it-yourself plywood box
To begin with, it is worth deciding on the purpose of the box. If this is a box for vegetables or other household needs, it is necessary to fasten the walls and bottom more thoroughly, using screws or small nails.
Decorative drawers, for example, for storing documents on the desktop, are perfectly sealed with the usual titanium glue. It is only important to fix the details of the box well after applying the glue in order to fit them together.
Prepare the necessary tool for work in advance. You may need:
- corner for applying the correct marking on the material for further cutting;
- jigsaw is the only sawing material that avoids chipping and chipping at the cut;
- roulette;
- screwdriver.
We start by making five blanks. For the box, if you do not plan to make a book for it, you will need five parts: four walls and a bottom. On a sheet of material, we make the appropriate markings, repeating the contours of the future box, and cut them out with a jigsaw.
Try to keep the lines of the edges of the workpieces even, so that it is easier for them to fit together.
Walls are installed at the bottom, which are screwed with a screwdriver. For greater reliability and better fastening of parts, you can grease the ends of the lower sides with wood glue, immediately removing the remnants.
The last stage is fixing the fittings. Depending on what the plywood box is for, you can screw handles, wheels and other devices to it.
If you need the box to close, there should be six plywood blanks. Sixth, the lid should be the same size as the bottom. It is screwed on top of the box on the hinges, and, if necessary, the lock is screwed on.
Separately, it should be said about the finish of the box. Yes, plywood itself is quite an attractive material, but without proper processing it can soon lose its original appearance.
We process and decorate a plywood box
To begin with, small boxes for storing household items need to be well sanded so that paint or color can be easily applied to them later. The edges of the boxes also need to be finished if you don't want to constantly bump and injure them. However, if you made the cut with an electric jigsaw, there should not be any special irregularities.
Process finishing the box is stacked in several stages.
- If you glued the walls together, and did not screw them together with screws, let the glue dry well, at least for a day.
- If you want to use a stain, the drying must be extended.
- The paint can be applied in several layers, depending on your initial idea.
Using a stencil or carbon paper, you can apply a drawing or writing on top of the paint. When the drawing is dry, it needs to be varnished or waxed to secure it.
Another option for finishing, more interesting, but also more laborious, is wood burning using a special apparatus. This, of course, requires a certain skill and experience.
If this is the first time you are holding the burner in your hands, we advise you to practice before decorating the box itself. Take an unwanted piece of plywood and try to burn some drawing on it. It turns out? Then the pattern, drawing or inscription can be burned on the product itself.
This article will describe in detail the manufacture of a box for equipment, spare parts, batteries and tools - the so-called flight box. But this box was made taking into account the fact that there is a car for trips in the field, and therefore it is quite large and heavy.
Materials (edit):
- plywood (4mm)
- glazing beads
- wooden blocks 25x15 mm
- PVA glue
- varnish
- self-tapping screws
- carnations
Purchased parts:
- doorhandle
- hinges
- hook locks
- legs
Instruments:
- hacksaw for wood
- jigsaw
- ruler
- square
- pencil
- sandpaper
- hammer
- iron
- brush
Since there is little experience in furniture design programs, I also made a drawer in such a program - PRO100... A * .sto file is a drawer project with all sizes. But in general, this box, depending on your equipment and tools, may have completely different sizes and a different number of internal boxes.
Step 1. Cutting out the details of the box
To begin with, we buy a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 4 mm. It is possible and thicker, but the box will then be even heavier, which is not very desirable.
The process of transportation (and the acquisition itself, of course, everyone will have their own, but the box needs about such a sheet of plywood - 1.5x1.5 meters).
Then we cut the sheet into the necessary parts and lightly sand the edges with sandpaper.
From a bar (15x25 mm) we cut out four long and four short bars, and from a window glazing bead we cut off pieces of the same length - for the corners of the box.
We cut out internal partitions and we make cuts in the parts of the cross with a jigsaw for half a width.
Step 2. Aligning the parts
This step is optional, since if you are lucky enough to purchase flat plywood, you will not need to level it. Otherwise, it will take a couple of extra days for this process. In general, the Internet is full of information on how to straighten plywood, but I'll tell you briefly.
So, to begin with, we pour over the sawn-off pieces hot water(I filled the bathroom with water and threw all the details there).
Then, with a heated iron (preferably with steam), smooth out uneven parts. You can directly on the tiled floor.
Now we put the heated parts on a flat surface, it is possible in several layers.
Cover the top with flat planes made of chipboard or boxes with tools and press down with a load. I used basins and water bottles.
Since I have a heated floor in the bathroom, the parts were even and almost dry in a day. But it may take another day for the plywood to dry completely.
Step 3. Bonding the box
In the future, all the parts will be additionally fastened with self-tapping screws and studs, but first the parts must be glued with PVA glue.
On the sides of the box we draw lines along which the glazing beads will be glued. Then we glue the glazing beads (offset from the edge 4 mm, by the thickness of the plywood).
On the sidewalls of the lid, similarly draw lines and glue the glazing beads.
We leave them for half an hour to dry the glue.
Then, along the previously drawn lines, we glue the 15x25 mm slats to the sidewalls.
We do the same with the sides of the lid.
Then we put the parts under the press and leave the glue to dry completely.
When the glue is dry, you can glue the inner dividers to the sides of the drawer and strips of plywood to the blocks.
Using a square and improvised items, we glue the end wall to the side wall.
Then we glue the second side and end walls, fix with nails and leave until completely dry.
We glue the bottom and additionally fix it with studs in the corners (in glazing beads) and self-tapping screws (in slats).
We glue the inner walls to the sides of the lid.
We glue the cover immediately on the base.
And we glue narrow strips of plywood, thus forming a gap for the inner cover. The inner cover itself is made of one layer of plywood and glazing bead, behind which it will be pulled out.
Step 4. Sanding and varnishing
We attach the lid to the box, press and grind all surfaces with sandpaper to align the joints.
Covering the box acrylic varnish in two layers.
The inner cover is in one layer.
Step 5. Screwing on hinges, locks, handles and legs
We make small notches under the hinges and fasten them to the lid with self-tapping screws.
Then we fasten the lid to the box, close it and mark the places for the locks. We also fasten the locks with self-tapping screws.
We glue a strip of plywood to the lid from the inside to strengthen the place under the handle.
We mark and drill holes for the bolts.
We fasten the handle.
Veneer layers glued to each other and at the same time with fibers perpendicular to each other are called plywood, and the number of plates for such an assembly is usually at least three pieces.
Due to the asymmetry in the direction of the fibers, the material acquires a certain strength, which makes it, in some cases, indispensable for the manufacture of non-standard decor, as well as various containers.
Below we will talk about such crafts and tell you a few little secrets, and the video in this article will help you become more familiar with the topic.
Materials and elements
By and large, a do-it-yourself plywood box is made in the presence of many necessary tools, that is, planer, router, clamps and so on. But, firstly, not every home has a special carpentry tool, and, secondly, sometimes you can do without it if you make such a box very simple.
But, of course, you cannot do without a tool at all, and, of course, it will be much more convenient if it is electric (circular or jigsaw, screwdriver).
Cut plywood
- Now we will learn how to make a box out of plywood, without spiking the parts and without making grooves with a router - for work, we will only need an electric manual circular to smoothly cut the sheet and a screwdriver to assemble the individual parts into a whole structure. For our craft we use standard sheet 1525x1525x10 mm, where you can store, for example, the same vegetables or, say, spare parts from a car.
Similar materials
When choosing a material for boxes and racks that can withstand a serious load, but at the same time aesthetic and variable - we vote for plywood. A wide range of thicknesses (for all occasions), strength, reliability and ease of processing - this is what attracts the master in plywood. Today we will look at how to make a box out of plywood, with several types and various accessories.
You will learn how to make a wide variety of plywood boxes
Required tools
In order to use the full range of possibilities offered by plywood, a good tool park is needed. This statement is true for any undertaking, but now we are interested in specifics. The following figure shows a container for a forklift or rohli, which can be made using a hacksaw, tape measure and screwdriver - in one copy. Having spent only one working day, and having a hearty lunch three times.
Plywood packaging for a loader
If you have the right tool, any dystrophic will do it in an hour. The production of boxes from plywood, put on stream - brings considerable profit to the master, armed with the necessary devices.
- Home portable woodworking machine worth about a thousand dollars. Combines the functions of a circular saw with good speed, a planer, milling, turning, drilling and grinding machines. Powered by 220 volts and the size of a large suitcase.
- Drill screwdriver.
- Semi-professional (at least) electric jigsaw with a set of various files.
- Furniture stapler.
With a similar set of tools, you can make piece things: to order or just as a gift.
Boxes example
It's better to start not with industrial containers. An ordinary plywood box, like a pencil case, will always come in handy - for storing small things, documents, old photographs and other things.
Plywood box with sliding lid
The calculation of the detailing will be indicated based on the dimensions (h / w / d) 200x350x350 millimeters.
In order to make a similar box out of plywood with your own hands, you need trimmings of euro-veneer of two thicknesses: 6 and 15 millimeters.
Cut out the details from the six-millimeter one:
- 200x350 mm - back wall.
- 180x350 mm - front wall.
- 343х333 mm - sliding cover.
- 338х334 mm - bottom.
- 50x20 mm - handle.
Blanks of parts from fifteen mm plywood:
- 338х334 mm - 2 pcs., Drawer sides.
All details are sawn off on circular saw and are sanded with fine abrasive. In the workpieces for the sidewalls, it is necessary to make grooves with a 6.2 mm or 6+ milling cutter according to the European standard. The inner, that is, the edge of the groove farthest from the edge of the sidewall is measured and the distance should be 19 mm. The grooves are sawn parallel to the side with a length of 338 mm at the top and bottom of the part - under the bottom and the sliding cover, respectively.
In the front and back walls of the box we do through holes with a diameter of 4 mm - for a screed with sidewalls. We will tighten with self-tapping screws 3x20 mm - they are quite enough, given the preliminary gluing. It is best to use a PVA emulsion or high-quality wood glue - now they are available in a huge range.
First, we apply glue to the rear ends of the sidewalls and fasten to them. back wall... Excess glue on all surfaces is immediately removed with a damp cloth. Pay close attention to the coincidence of the edges - the plywood box is designed with almost no tolerances.
We put glue in the lower grooves, insert the bottom into them and fasten the front wall, also smearing the sidewalls with glue.
We check how the top cover moves in the grooves. If necessary, we lightly work on it with sandpaper. The handle can be simply glued, but for the sake of faith, we nailed it with staple staples - from below, through the lid.
After the glue has completely dried, we recommend sanding the box again on the outside with a grinding wheel, and on the inside with ordinary sandpaper. Now it can be painted, tinted, varnished - in general, amused as God puts it on your soul.
Plywood drawer
Plywood drawers are in demand in several cases, usually not associated with the use of roller guides.
For example, a relatively small library or catalog repository does not imply complex systems advancing. There, it is much more important to be able to pull out the necessary (durable) box without technical problems and carry it closer to the light.
Library drawer
Another, perhaps the most extensive sector of application - blanks for the so-called "hand-made". They are in overwhelming demand among design graduates and bored, soulful housewives.
Hand-made boxes
Here, as Judge Crixus said, everything is clear: "- She loves to drink (to embroider, draw, dance) - this should be used!"
A set of unpainted but fitted parts for a mini-chest of drawers costs about a hundred dollars in an online store. And the material for him will cost about ten. Plus an hour and a half work (for a foreman armed with equipment), including packaging in polyethylene and printing instructions on a printer. After simple calculations, we find out that the production of plywood boxes will bring 800% of the profit.
For fast production quality drawers in both directions, we again need our magic machine. Tongue-groove docking implies precise sawing of parts (of any size) and a good milling cutter. You can try to fit this connection with a file, but even Gosstrakh does not guarantee the result.
Plywood box with a tenon-groove joint
But you can cut all workpieces for a box with a width of 120 mm with a 15 mm wide disc milling cutter in just four readjustments of the guides on the machine. Six plywood boxes will take about seven minutes of working time. To make grooves for the insert bottom of the box - another ten minutes, taking into account the replacement of the cutter by 3.5 mm, for hardboard.
Plywood decorative boxes
In the second picture, we have demonstrated aerobatics. It is practical for established craftsmen and prisoners in correctional labor colonies, as it requires lengthy training, artistic inclinations and concentration. The tool is enough and the above.
Making a decorative and at the same time practical box, pictured below, is available to mere mortals who are not burdened with special talents or sins. If you take a closer look, it becomes clear how to make a plywood box of this kind.
Plywood decorative box
Regardless of the dimensions, which are always individual, here are the methods of work that are already familiar to us.
External bends are cut with a jigsaw on geometrically precise workpieces. The marking of arcs in this case is left to the discretion of the designer, because it can be any: the main thing is symmetrical.
Ventilation holes in the bottom of the drawer and curly handles are also easy to make: It is enough to drill with a feather drill required diameter at the "extreme" points and connect the resulting circles, carefully sawing with the same jigsaw.
The groove-tenon connection here is of a slightly different kind, so it is worth focusing on it. The entire plywood box is assembled without self-tapping screws, with glue, so the fit must be done with a minimum tolerance.
Let's say we are using a "multiple" thickness of plywood. Multiple - coinciding with the diameter of the drill, into the hole from which you can push a narrow file for a jigsaw. Considering that the box in the picture with beer symbols is 10 mm, no less.
First you need to cut out the “spiked” parts. The pins do not need to be the same length. The main task is to maintain the width of the protrusion equal to the thickness of the mating part. Simpler: The bottom spike should not protrude beyond the thickness of the sidewall.
The elements are cut out with a jigsaw, and very carefully. It is best to "round off" the thorns by hand, with an ordinary file. After that, the part with spikes is applied to the mating part, and the contour of the spike is drawn with a pencil on the plane. Further - according to the scenario with ventilation holes. Two holes with a drill connected with a jigsaw.
We apply glue, put the puzzle and decorate: We process, grind, paint.
Making such a decorative box out of plywood can take a couple of days - taking into account the drying of the glue. Excluding - four different boxes in one and a half leisurely working days. If your wife doesn't like it, you can put them up for an online auction, and bail out $ 70 each. About.
Nothing is impossible for a person equipped with good tools, restless hands and a working head.
How to make homemade cover for an aquarium, the design of which would allow free upgrading of lighting equipment, easy maintenance of the aquarium and, at the same time, would be made up of readily available and inexpensive materials?
Plastic materials are inaccessible for the average consumer, aluminum is expensive, thin galvanized steel is too flexible, thick steel is too heavy. I checked all the options, discarded and finally came to the simplest and most accessible material - plywood.
The design I want to describe is very easy to make and has been tested on 3 aquariums already.
So, here is the aquarium - glued, put on a pedestal, filled.
Let's start with the material - this is the most common plywood, 10 mm thick.
The most common design is a rectangular box with a lid. Accordingly, the details are 4 walls and 2 cover elements.
You can cut it yourself, or you can order it in the workshop.
The type of wood does not matter as we are not going to rely on its water resistance. We use varnish.
What varnish to take? To find the answer, it should be remembered that there are wooden structure, which, by design, should stand in the rain without spoiling. I mean all sorts of verandas, gazebos, awnings. For this, there is a huge selection of all kinds of varnishes. I used this
Within a year, this varnish proved to be a high-quality waterproof coating, with a complete absence of toxicity even for fish such as catfish or loaches. With the same varnish, I covered the structural elements of the cabinet, slightly increasing the water resistance of the chipboard.
Now you need to prepare the elements of the box.
Here you need to decide on the method of connection, as well as provide for support strips with which the lid will fit on the glass.
In this lid, as we can see, I used a regular aluminum corner for both purposes. You can also use a regular plastic furniture corner, or just a wooden lath.
In my experience, a 10 cm under-roof space is quite enough for lamps and reflectors, so the lid on the aquarium itself is 5 cm, which is quite stable.
Do not forget to drill a hole in the back of the box with a glass or a drill with a large diameter for the heater wire, filter tubes and compressor.
Now you can assemble the box and see what happened.
The error is clearly visible, I overestimated the size of the aquarium and unscrewed the walls too far. Not scary, aluminum corner wide enough, you can play with the screws as you like.
We fixed it and, by the way, making sure that the structure fits well, you can put the top cover on.
We assemble the cover from 2 sections on ordinary door hinges.
Here, roughly, what happened.
You can do the light.
The light here is made on the basis of Hagen's Double Glomat-40. You see a temporary setting so as not to delay planting. Subsequently, reflectors will be made.
Consider a few more options for lids.
A cover of a similar design, but the support rails are wood rather than aluminum.
The aquarium was only 120 cm long, in contrast to the new one, which was made 125 cm. Thus, it was not possible to install standard 120 cm fluorescent lamps. The light is a combination of 18 cotton fluorescent and "economical" compacts for a simple cartridge. Reflectors are bent from ordinary galvanized sheet, pasted over with self-adhesive mirror. As you can see, the efficiency of light reflection is rather high.
The next panoramic aquarium is a real disaster for the amateur master.
Just want to warn you, any attempts to bend plywood for the environment high humidity- a waste of money and energy. It is simple and cheap to make as in the picture - the front wall is made of galvanized sheet with any external decorative coating.
For example, since in the last aquarium, plants play a secondary role, the light is made here very primitively, within 10 minutes.
Finally, the light was turned on, the water was poured, we are waiting for the dregs to settle.
Mark's note
For those wishing to obtain a lid with a more reflective surface, it is possible to use plywood with a white plastic coating on one side. Such plywood is commonly used in the manufacture of kitchen furniture. Those. inside the lid will be white, and outside - whatever you want, what you will paste over. it plastic cover, by the way, protects the plywood from fumes. All that remains is to smear the ends with ordinary silicone - from the same vapors.