After cutting with a hand-held circular saw (parquet) for some time, I realized its disadvantages - cutting a small part is difficult and dangerous, for example, a piece of chipboard measuring 10x10cm, etc.
And also when sawing boards lengthwise, your hand gets very tired holding the saw; this is the most convenient saw.
Then I decided to make a table for a circular saw with my own hands, only portable, so that I could put it on any chair or table and put it on a shelf when not needed, and also left the possibility of quickly turning it back into a manual circular saw - without removing any protection and etc.
Materials for the circular table
To make a circular table, I used 3 mm sheet steel, cut two squares measuring 45x50 cm. Marked a window for a saw blade with protection measuring 26x200 mm and cut it out with a grinder, trimming the edges with a file.
At the base of the circular saw I drilled 4 holes with a diameter of 6 mm to attach the saw to the table.
Installation and fastening of the saw
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Next, I placed the saw on the sheet with the window, accurately centered it and placed holes for attaching the saw pins. I used M6 studs. I drilled 5 mm holes for the saw mounting studs and cut an M6 thread. The studs were screwed into the sheet so that 1 mm remained to the edge of the sheet on the front side, then they were welded on the front side, just 1 mm was filled with liquid metal. This method of fastening turned out to be quite durable.
Next, I marked 4 holes in each sheet for the location of M10 racks; I did not cut threads for them, because... The thread pitch is large for M10 and in a metal thickness of only 3 mm they will not hold well, but on the other hand, nothing needs to be attached closely to these studs, so they were simply welded on the bottom and top sides, the top welding was ground flush with the metal surface. The studs were welded only to the top sheet of metal.
TO bottom sheet metal studs are secured with nuts on both sides. This is done so that you can easily disassemble the structure and quickly remove the saw.
The ruler was made from a 32 mm angle and two pieces of 40 mm wide steel strip.
We had to cut grooves in the strip for the M8 wings. I made the grooves like this - I drilled holes along the edges of the groove and cut out the groove with a grinder, and then with my favorite file :)
The strips were welded to the corner.
Then I checked that everything fit well, took the structure apart and painted it.
I ended up with a great table for my circular saw.
Advantages of a table saw
- convenient to work, unlike a hand saw;
- the saw can be installed on a chair, on the floor, on a table, and it does not take up much space; it can be put away on a shelf in the garage;
- the ruler allows you to cut wider workpieces up to 30 cm than the original 18 cm ruler; if desired, you can make the ruler and table even larger;
- saw with a slight movement of the hand and wrench turns... back into a manual circular saw;
- the saw still has protection on the blade, something that regular table saws usually do not have.
Disadvantages of a Table Saw
- The switch on the saw is not fixed, so you either need to keep it pressed or insert a wooden wedge into the switch (I temporarily do this), which is not good for safety. But you can simply replace the switch on the saw, or equip the table with an outlet with a switch.
I didn’t find any other shortcomings with my circular saw table.
Photo of table saw:
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Switch (8) for circular saw CRP1200/185 "Hammer" - BSI-Instrument Ufa | | XMP15832 | Switch (8) for circular saw CRP1200/185 "Hammer" | PC | 134.00 | 137.00 | 143.00 | 152.00 | 168.00 | 183.00 | There is in stock in warehouse in Ufa |
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IN household Often a circular saw is not enough, especially if you start major renovation or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.
Design - main components, their purpose
A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:
- adaptation of existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
- improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
- assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.
Stationary circular saw includes several main components: table, shaft, motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.
The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a motor high power. They are also made from wood good tables for circular. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.
An engine from washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.
The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. Work for lathe performed in one installation, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.
Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear
Characteristics circular saw, engine and maximum thickness lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.
The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.
The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.
Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home
To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.
1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.
The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.
First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.
To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.
Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:
- loosen the nuts on the racks;
- we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
- tighten the stud nuts;
- We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.
The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.
Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one
It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. She's thick enough to withstand heavy weight, moisture resistant, easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.
You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a disk large diameter so as not to reduce functionality compared to portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.
Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw, which will expand its capabilities.
We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.
From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. To the kings stationary saw We fasten the legs, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.
We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.
Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices
No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.
On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.
When working with various materials It is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.
Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.
We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.