If your camera does not accept AA batteries, then the first thing you will need to do after opening the box is charge the battery.
In some cases, supplied Charger, in which you want to insert the battery, and then connect it to the network. But there are also batteries that are charged inside the camera via a USB connection.
All necessary cables should be in the box with the camera.
No. 2. Format memory card
Once the battery is charged, insert the memory card into the slot provided for it. Then turn on the camera, press the "menu" button and look for the option to format.
Formatting the card prepares it for use and removes all existing images from the card.
If you've used the card before, make sure you download any images you want to keep from it.
No. 3. Image quality and size - Extra Fine (Highest JPEG) and Large
If you want to create the best shots that the camera is capable of, select the image size Large. Then you will get maximum benefit from all pixels.
Then install best option image quality. It may be called Highest JPEG, Fine JPEG, or Extra Fine JPEG.
If your camera allows you to shoot RAW files, then you may want to take advantage of this option along with the JPEG format, because RAW contains the most image data.
If you are new to photography, do not shoot RAW files by yourself, take pictures at the same time in JPEG format. But you will need this option when you gain some experience.
No. 4. White balance - automatic mode
Our eyes and brains compensate really well various colors of the light we are facing, so we see white objects as white.
The camera's white balance system is designed for the same purpose, and in most cases, setting it to automatic gives good results.
But in some situations it is not enough. And in specific lighting conditions, it is better to choose the "fluorescent lamp" (fluorescent lamp) or "incandescent lamp" mode.
Manual white balance allows you to set it by photographing a white object, such as a sheet of paper, but this option is worth considering later.
No. 5. Exposure metering: evaluative, matrix or multi-segment
Many cameras offer three metering modes that allow you to judge the brightness of light and suggest appropriate exposure settings.
In addition to center-weighted and spot metering, there is a third option called evaluative, matrix, multi-zone, or multi-segment.
This mode is a good choice as it takes into account the brightness across the entire surface of the scene and tries to recommend exposure settings that will produce a beautifully balanced shot.
No. 6. Focus: Auto-AF or Single-AF
In Singe-AF (Auto Focus Single) mode, the camera will focus on the subject according to active points autofocus by pressing the shutter button halfway.
Once it is in focus, the lens will keep focus for as long as you keep the button pressed. This is a good option for many situations, but if the subject is moving, the focus will not be corrected.
Many cameras have an Auto-AF option that automatically detects if the subject is moving.
If the subject is stationary, then Single-AF is used, but if it moves, the camera activates the continuous autofocus system, that is, the focus is adjusted as needed.
No. 7. AF Point Selection - Auto Mode
Most cameras have a setting that tells the equipment which autofocus points to use. This a good choice if you are a beginner.
The camera has a tendency to focus on what is closest to the center of the frame. So if your subject is not quite centered and there are other objects between it and the camera, then keep an eye on what your camera is focusing on.
Switch to single-point AF (or similar) if necessary. It allows you to set the AF point using the navigation buttons.
No. 8. Shooting mode: "single shot" (Single) and "continuous shooting" (Continuous)
When your camera is in single shot mode, it takes one shot each time you press the shutter button. Even if you keep your finger pressed.
In "continuous shooting" mode, it will continue to take pictures until you release the button or until the buffer or memory card is full.
This mode is useful when taking pictures of moving subjects, but in most cases you'll want to take one photo at a time.
No. 9. Image stabilization - turn on or off
The slightest accidental camera movement can blur your images, but this can easily be fixed with the image stabilization system in your camera or lens.
It works by shifting the sensor or elements inside the lens to compensate for movement. As a rule, the stabilization system is very effective and allows you to use a fairly long shutter speed.
If you shoot handheld, be sure to activate image stabilization, but turn it off when mounting the camera on a tripod.
No. 10. Color space - Adobe RGB
Many cameras offer two color spaces to choose from: sRGB and Adobe RGB. Adobe RGB has a larger color range than sRGB. Therefore he will the best option In most cases.
No. 11. Picture Style or Picture Control - "Standard"
Most cameras can process images using a number of various ways, using Picture Style, Picture Control, color modes or film simulation mode.
As a rule, there are several options. Including one that produces black and white (monochrome) images, another boosts saturation to make the image brighter, and "landscape" that enhances blues and greens.
By default, the camera uses the "standard" option, which is usually suitable for most situations, so make sure that is set.
Greetings, dear reader! I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. So, you have purchased a photographic equipment. But what to do with her next? Of course, you first need to set up! The instruction, as well as this article, will greatly help you with this. The article will answer in detail the question: how to set up a SLR camera.
Preparing and using the camera
I'm sure you can't wait to start filming! Wait, first prepare the equipment for work. The interface and features of the camera device from top manufacturers may differ. For example, Canon from Nikon.
Important! Read your camera manual very carefully.
But at their core, they have similar functions and are customizable the same way, so my advice is universal, no matter what camera you use. I present the steps of the setup process to help you. Here's what to check:
- Battery
- Memory card
- Image format and quality
- vibrations
- Focusing
- Metering area
- Shooting modes and options
- Picture Control or Picture Style
Battery
Your camera must have a charger, most likely already included with your camera. It's not a battery, it's an accumulator. Before you start taking pictures, you need to properly charge it.
In this case, usually a brand new battery for normal operation will have to be fully charged and discharged more than once. Carefully consider the recommendations for its use in the instructions for the camera.
It happens that if the battery is constantly recharged without full energy consumption, it may gradually start to work worse, that is, it will last for less time.
Proper charging will help to avoid this. Also, it will not be superfluous to purchase additional battery if you plan to shoot a lot without the possibility of recharging.
Flash drive
A flash drive, or a memory card, is not sold together with the camera, it is bought separately, but you absolutely cannot do without it. This is where your photos will be stored. Much depends on: both the speed of shooting, and the speed of access to files. Therefore, it is not worth saving on it, take it high class- not less than 10.
Before you rush to try out the hardware, make sure that the flash drive is in place. Format it in advance by going to the camera menu.
Formatting will increase the free space for recording photos, as well as ensure optimal performance. Do this procedure periodically: we shot a series of frames, filled out the map, then transferred the data to the computer, and cleaned the flash drive.
Important! In your camera's settings, set the settings so that the camera does not take pictures when a memory card is not inserted. At Nikon, this feature is called Shutter Release Lock without a Memory Card.
Image format and quality
Any camera has the ability to save pictures different size and format, which determines their weight. As a rule, this is JPEG, small, medium and large, but there are semi- and professional models where you can shoot in RAW - the most high quality or as it is also called digital negative.
There is also a TIFF format, but it is mainly present on semi-professional and professional cameras.
Beginners most often start with an average quality. Once you master Lightroom or Photoshop, image editors, you will understand the benefits of RAW. Despite the fact that such a format takes up a lot of space on the map, it will contain all the information for any frame, and in such a photo you can subsequently modify almost all elements, within reason.
vibrations
Did you know that our actual stability in place leaves much to be desired? If you didn't know, you'll soon find out - as soon as you start taking photos. Often or even constantly in the camera, you should turn on the additional noise reduction (stabilization) setting, which will save the frame from vibrations. vibrations naturally come from external conditions(wind, for example), from hand trembling, awkward movement and can make the image fuzzy, blurry.
It is also necessary to enable a button that reduces vibrations on the lens itself, if any (VR - on Nikon, IS - on Canon). If you do not have such a button, do not worry, not all lenses have it.
Focus
In order for the optics to correctly recognize what exactly needs to be focused on, which object to make clear, it is necessary to vary the focus. In most cases, manual mode will not be useful to you, so switch the focus button to auto. You can switch both on the lens itself and in the camera settings.
Also, in the menu itself, you can also select the focus mode: single-point or multi-point.
I always shoot with the first option, because in the second, the camera already determines the points on which to focus. I don't know about you, but I prefer to manage this process myself. Moreover, in the frame space, the focus area can be shifted in any direction, depending on the location of the main subject (with single-point focusing).
Metering area
Of the three common exposure metering options, I most often use matrix (multizone) and center. Matrix does a great job in many shooting situations: it measures the lighting conditions in several areas of the frame at once, which determines the exact exposure. The central one is more suitable when you need to evaluate the exposure in the central part of the photographed space.
For more information about exposure metering modes, see the article -
Modes, shooting options
An important task is to choose the parameters. After all, they define the whole picture! Of course, a lot depends on the composition and atmosphere, but the exposure and its components “create” the photo, they can both improve it and completely destroy it. I will not write much about this, since you will find comprehensive information about it in my articles. Let me just say what you need to be able to exhibit:
Very effective method make the image more expressive and adjust to the shooting conditions. In addition, less time will then be spent on post-processing.
It will be very useful for you to watch the video course, which will guide you on the right path and answer many of your photography questions in more detail. It is called " Digital SLR for beginners 2.0” and is a well-chosen material, especially useful for a beginner.
It will also be useful to familiarize yourself with the video course dedicated to the powerful assistant of almost every photographer, Lightroom " Lightroom wizard. Secrets of high-speed photo processing". This course will teach you how to properly work with a photo and make small adjustments to photos. With this program, you will understand why many photographers use the RAW format.
I hope the article was useful and understandable. More practice - and everything will work out! See you on my blog! Share with friends and subscribe to blog updates.
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
This article will focus on the settings that will need to be done before shooting video on the camera. As an example, we will use a SLR camera from the company Canon. Material shot with these settings will be most suitable for further processing in a video editor.
So the first thing we need to do is move the camera to manual shooting mode so you can set values like white balance, ISO, shutter speed and aperture. That is, you need to disable all automatic settings.
For example, switch the video shutter speed from auto to manual and white balance to the most appropriate light from automatic. I also advise you to turn on the manual focus mode. Since autofocus on cameras is quite slow and noisy. Next you need change image style. Because, by default, it is set to a very contrasting picture with digital sharpness. Which in the future will not allow you to draw out the details in the shadows and the sharpness will look much worse than the one that you can add in post-processing.
So we go into the image styles and select one of the custom ones (for example, the first one) Press the button "info" and get into its settings. Here at paragraph “Picture Style” choose "Neutral" (Neutral).
Further sliders sharpness and contrast (sharpness and contrast) move completely minus to the left (for all 4 divisions). A saturation shifted down by two divisions. These are the most optimal settings at which the greatest amount of detail remains in the image. Now you need adjust the frame rate for video recording. So, if you want to get a picture similar to a movie, then choose 24 fps. Because exactly this number of frames per second is used when shooting movies on film. If choose 25 (for PAL (European TV Format)) or 30 (for NTSC (US format)), then the picture will be television, as in the news.
More about endurance. Ideally, its value should be set equal to 1/47-1/50 for 24 and 25 fps or 1/60 for 30 fps. At these settings, the movement in the frame does not become too sharp and there is no flickering of artificial light sources. That is, they put it up once and you can not touch it anymore Exposure can be adjusted using the values ISO and aperture. I note that it may be necessary to fully open the aperture in bright sunshine for getting blurred background(small depth of field), in this case, you have to reduce the shutter speed.
How to take pictures with a DSLR reflex camera)? So, you have a SLR camera! What's next? Which shooting mode should you choose? How to build a frame? What button to press to get a beautiful photo?
When photographing with a SLR camera, you should pay attention to a few nuances that distinguish shooting with a SLR from shooting with a conventional camera - even a digital one.
First of all, let's turn to the shooting modes. Preset shooting modes help novice photographers get the best possible results - without having to delve into the intricacies of setting up their camera.
Of course, even the simplest "digital cameras" have their own preset settings - shooting modes. However, not many compact cameras have modes such as P, A(or Av), S(or TV), M, Sv, A-Dep- which are mainly the prerogative reflex cameras, or very "advanced" compact cameras.
So, how do you squeeze all 100% of its capabilities out of the camera? What modes to use?
If you have just begun to study the intricacies of photography, or if you are in doubt which mode to choose, you can, of course, set the "auto" mode, but setting this shooting mode using a DSLR is not only not solid, but also not practical - because the ability to keep the result under control in this case is minimal.
If you are still new to photography, then you can use the mode for a start. P. In this mode, the camera automatically sets the exposure (the ratio of aperture and shutter speed) to accurately expose the subject being photographed. In Canon's instructions, this mode is called program autoexposure, hence the R.
When I bought my first "advanced" digital camera, I used, for the most part, this particular mode, since it allowed me to control the sensitivity of the matrix (and using this to get photos without noise, and I was also able to perform exposure compensation - so the photos turned out dark at night, and in the daytime - bright, and not so - as the camera pleases :)
However, if you decide to shoot a landscape - then here Avmight be useful! Indeed, for maximum detail, the aperture should be “closed”, at least to the value “ f8.0", otherwise clarity is largely lost! V macro photography on the other hand, in order to obtain at least a significant depth of field, it is necessary to “close” the diaphragm to a minimum, even f32 might come in handy!
Using aperture priority and depth of field - to give an artistic effect.
How to take pictures with a SLR camera to "stop the moment"?
The secret is simple - a short shutter speed.
Mode M- that is, completely manual photography mode. I use this letter in non-standard cases, for example, at night, or in a dark club - in which the spotlights are almost unchanged, and having tuned in well one single time, you can no longer think about changing the settings ... or in the studio - where the light is under my complete control .
One of the great inventions of our time digital cameras, which have, among other things, an automatic shooting mode. Now, if necessary, quickly catch and capture moments Everyday life difficulties do not arise. The desire to understand the intricacies of levers and buttons and learn how to set up the camera appears a little later, along with a craving for creative experiments.
Before taking a single shot, professional photographers spend more than one minute changing the shooting parameters and comparing the results. There are no universal settings - the shooting mode and parameters must correspond to the time of day and lighting, weather conditions, the plot of the photo and its purpose - whether it will be a 10x15 family photo or a huge poster. Let's start simple. The size of the printed photo is determined by the frame size that you set in the camera settings. The most common format is 10x15 cm, it corresponds to an image size of 1920x1280 and values close to it. This resolution of 2 megapixels is enough for printing quality photos this format, and your memory card can hold more pictures. If your goal is ordinary high quality photos without artistic processing in the graphics editor, immediately adjust the brightness, contrast and saturation. With a slight blur of the frame, the sharpness adjustment function can cope. It will not be superfluous to study all the available scene modes that are in every modern camera. Sometimes the choice of one or another plot can help out if you need to quickly take a picture, for example, when shooting fireworks, sports events or constantly moving babies. After mastering the various plots, it's time to move on to program modes. The simplest of them - "P" - is present even in compact digital cameras. In this mode, you can manually change parameters such as white balance (WB), sensitivity (ISO), autofocus mode, and some others:- White balance - due to the fact that the color temperature of different light sources varies significantly, the camera, or rather the photomatrix located inside, is unable to accurately reproduce colors. The built-in temperature sensor for color correction does not always help to set the white balance correctly. Therefore, it is possible to set this parameter manually.
- ISO is the sensitivity of the matrix, its susceptibility to light. high value ISO means you can take pictures in low light. In bright sunlight, the sensitivity should take one of the minimum values.