Rowan grafting methods. Grafting of chokeberry into the crown of wild mountain ash

In this article, we will talk about grafting of chokeberry. Among fruit plants one of the prominent places belongs to the chokeberry, it has become widespread in Altai, in Leningrad and in many other regions. Excellent yield, winter hardiness, resistance to diseases and pests and the high nutritional and technical value of the fruit puts it on a par with valuable fruit crops.

Fruit chokeberry contain 13.25 percent sugars. They are also rich in vitamin C (over 79.69 mg%) and vitamin P (1555 mg%). They are used as food in fresh and especially processed, they prepare jam, jam, wine, liqueurs. Jam and wine are excellent remedies in medicine for gastric diseases and hypertension; they act as a resorbant against gouty deposits.

Rowan black chokeberry propagation by cuttings

Huge demand for planting material this culture on the part of amateur gardeners cannot be satisfied due to the lack of seedlings. However, gardeners who want to grow black chokeberries in their own homes can be advised to purchase cuttings, which is much easier, and graft them into the crown common mountain ash.

To do this, you can use adult chokeberry plants aged about 5 years and older, available in private gardens and in the surrounding forests.

After transplanting, trees must be pruned heavily to reduce crown volume. Grafting of cuttings or budding is best done in the second year after planting. If the tree grows well at the same time, it is better to do it on the shoots of a new growth (otherwise the eyes will not take root).

Leaving a wild mountain ash bole with a height of about 1.5-2 meters, you can get a beautiful weeping tree after grafting a chokeberry into its crown. Fruiting of black chokeberry after grafting into the crown begins in the 3rd year. The grafted tree grows to a significant size and gives abundant harvests.

Vaccination: technology, compatibility

The grandfather's way of grafting for a big harvest

The bark grafting method is used when one or more new (more winter-hardy, productive or disease-resistant) varieties are to be grafted onto an adult or old apple tree.

Then most of the skeletal (main) branches of the tree are cut down at a distance of 70 centimeters to 1 meter from the trunk and branches are grafted onto them. With this method of grafting, it is very important to leave two or three skeletal branches uncircumcised so that they "draw sap", otherwise the apple tree, weakened by a short pruning, will die.





1. To help the wound heal better, use a garden knife or a grafting knife to clean the saw cut on the branch.

2. Make a 4-6 cm vertical incision in the bark of the branch. In this case, the blade of the knife should reach the wood.

3 Back side knife, slightly separate and spread the bark of the rootstock * - so that the grafting stalk can enter more easily. (* Stock - root system and part of the stem to the grafting site.)

4. Make an oblique cut on the scion handle (the optimal cut length is 4 cutting diameters.)

5. Slightly sharpen the lower part of the cutting from the back of the cut side- this will make it easier to insert the stalk by the bark.

6. Insert the stalk of the grafted variety behind the rootstock bark (1-2 mm of the scion cut should be above the cut).

7. Tie the grafting sites with twine, plastic wrap or electrical tape (sticky layer out). If using twine, coat the upper cuts of the cuttings, the saw cut surface and the longitudinal cuts with garden varnish so that the grafts do not dry out.

by the way

When inoculating for the bark, usually 2-4 cuttings are placed on the branches - then the wound (saw cut) will overgrow more evenly. After 2-3 years, only one is left, the most developed, so that the overgrown vaccinations do not interfere with each other.

"Summer resident. Garden. Vegetable garden"

22.10.15

And once again about vaccinations

I mastered the grafting of fruit crops a long time ago. This is not only interesting, but also very necessary business. We have a small plot of land- only three hundred square meters, but my experience has shown that a small family needs no more than two or three trees, for example apple trees. It is important that the varieties are "our", zoned, and not afraid of severe frosts, thaws and spring frosts... But at the same time, practically every gardener wants to have other varieties in his garden, something more interesting, and this is where grafting comes to the rescue.

On our site for about 40 years, an apple tree of the variety flaunted Strafling (Autumn striped, Shtrifel). For our conditions, a wonderful variety. The apples are large, beautifully colored, sweet, with a unique candy aroma.

Once our neighbor asked me to graft a twig of Streyfling on an Anis scarlet tree bearing fruit in their garden, whose top had just "shot" by that time in a place convenient for grafting. I fulfilled the request and forgot about it for 12-15 years. Well, the grafted bitch grows and grows. And recently a neighbor in a conversation boasted about the taste of apples from a grafted branch and brought them to me for tasting. Before me were beautiful fruits, regular in shape, but not Streyfling. Its apples are immediately recognizable by the "saucer"; they are shallow or almost absent. And here the "saucer" is deep, regular in shape, the stalk is slightly longer, the color of the apples is brighter, and they differ in shape. The taste is more delicate than both parental forms. In a word, Scarlet Anise had a beneficial effect on the grafted twig. Although, according to the rules, this should not have happened. Now I decided to graft a twig of Streyfling from a neighbor's apple tree on my own tree. Let's see what happens. The scion has already given two harvests of several apples, but the fruits affected by the moth fell before ripening, and the tasting did not take place.

I also decided to start growing a garden tree on which more than a dozen varieties would be grafted. So far, only three varieties grow on one tree and bear fruit perfectly: Antonovka, Melba and actually Autumn striped.

V. Meshchanov , amateur gardener, Kazan

(Garden and vegetable garden No. 1, 2010)

Rowan as rootstock

Rowan ordinary, which grows widely in our Kuzbass forests, can serve as a cheap and affordable stock for a number of fruit and ornamental crops.

On young mountain ash trees taken from the forest, you can graft, first of all, a decorative mountain ash with a creeping crown type, mountain ash Nevezhinskaya , as well as such varietal hybrids of rowan trees, such as Pomegranate , Cubastaya etc., and chokeberry, conventionally called black chokeberry.

You can graft on mountain ash different varieties hawthorn and irgi in order to obtain vigorous standard forms of these crops. In this case, the gardener needs to apply special pruning methods for the resulting plants to form a spherical crown in them.

Many varieties of domestic pears take root well when grafted on mountain ash. However, there are frequent cases of low survival rate or its complete absence in certain varieties, leading to grafts falling out or breaking off at the junction of the scion with the stock at the age of three.

Of the cultivated varieties of apple trees, only a few can be grafted onto mountain ash, having among the parental forms the apple tree (Chinese).

As practice shows, the taste of fruits in various cultivated breeds and varieties does not change when they are grafted onto mountain ash.

(Kuznetsk estate, No. 1, 2005)

What a gardener needs to know about vaccinations

What does every gardener dream about? That's right - so that the harvest is larger, and there are fewer problems. So that any variety you like would certainly become "your own", and the trees in the garden would never grow old. And all of this is perfectly doable if the owner of the garden is on good terms with a vaccination.

Have you never planted trees? Not sure how to do this? Afraid you won't succeed? Then this article is for you!

WHAT IS VACCINATION AND WHAT IS IT NEEDED FOR?

In horticulture, grafting is the transfer of a part of one plant to another plant for the purpose of their mutual accretion. The result is a new unified organism, where the powerful root system of one "parent" begins to ensure the growth and development of the terrestrial part of the second. Moreover, this second is always a specially selected variety with the right qualities and characteristics.

You ask: what is it for, but it turns out, vaccination fruit trees can solve a lot of different problems in the garden.

The most important thing is to shorten the waiting time for the first harvest. Trees grown from seed / seed will bear fruit no earlier than in 5-6 years, and generally in 10-15 years. And grafted on an adult tree or on a 2-3-year-old seedling, varieties can please with a harvest for 2-3 years.

Vaccination will help you quickly get the variety that you liked (for example, you saw it from a neighbor, relatives in another area, and "got fired up"). And you don't have to buy a seedling, looking for this variety in all nurseries - you just need to get a cutting from a tree you like.

By vaccination different varieties on one tree, you will noticeably increase the variety of fruit crops in your garden, and at the same time save territory. On one apple or pear tree, for example, you can have 3-4 different varieties, and on a wild plum you can grow cherry plum, plum and even apricots at the same time!

Vaccination makes it possible to quickly replace an unsuccessful (disliked, disliked) variety with a new one with better characteristics.

Vaccination will help you get valuable, but not adapted to your conditions, fruit varieties. Even in mid-latitude conditions, you can harvest delicate southern crops by grafting on local frost-resistant varieties.

And besides all useful changes in your garden, grafting is also an exciting experience. You will see: after the first results, you will be irresistibly "pulled" into this world of grafted man-made miracles.

ACTORS AND PERFORMERS

The scion, rootstock and cambium take part in the sacrament called "grafting". There is also a fourth actor- a man, but about him later, but for now only about the main characters.

A graft is a part of a varietal plant that takes root on another plant. It can be a small piece of a stem, or even a single bud. The graft will form upper part tree (bush) and "be responsible" for its varietal characteristics.

A rootstock is a plant or part of a plant on which a scion takes root. The rootstock is the lower part, which will be responsible for nutrition, resistance and adaptability to local conditions.

In order not to confuse which is which, we remember this:

a scion is a part of a plant that takes root on another plant;

the stock is under the scion.

And if the scion and stock are the main participants in the process, then the cambium is the main performer, it is thanks to him that everything happens.


CAMBIUM

The principle of grafting is based on the tree's ability to heal (heal) its wounds. Here, all laurels belong to a thin layer of active cells - cambium, which is located between the wood and the bast.

When inoculation, incisions (wounds) specially made on the scion and rootstock are superimposed on each other in such a way that the naked layers of the cambium are combined. Press tightly to each other - and provide time for "affinity".

Both plants begin to actively heal wounds: on both sides of the cambium cells, actively multiplying, give rise to callus (healing tissue). These counter influences coalesce and form a new conductive tissue. That's the whole secret.

ROOTSTOCK

The stock is the basis for future grafting. Through him root system food and water will flow, the stability and durability of the tree, the attitude to the soil and even the yield will depend on it. Therefore, the choice of stock should be approached with all responsibility.

Stock selection criteria:

* Compatible with scion

* Frost resistance

* Resistance to excess / lack of moisture

* Maximum adaptability to local conditions

* Strong root system

Rootstocks are subdivided into:

* Wild and cultivated

* Seed and vegetative

* Vigorous and undersized.

Depending on your goals, the stock can serve as young tree or seedling, wild root growth, a fruit tree of an unpleasant variety, or a tree that you like, but for some reason is doomed (broken, for example).

You can dig a wild game in the forest or grow a seedling stock with your own hands. You can even try using a healthy stump from a sawn tree as a rootstock.

PRIVOY

The graft will form the upper part of the tree (bush), which is responsible for its varietal characteristics. This means that the quality of the fruits and their quantity depend on the scion.

Therefore, for grafting, it is necessary to cut off cuttings or buds (shields) from those trees that have already shown themselves "in all their glory" - both in fruits and in yield.

Harvesting of cuttings for scion is carried out several times throughout the year:

* For winter and spring grafting, cuttings must be harvested in the fall, after the end of leaf fall, but before the onset of severe frosts.

* If the cuttings for some reason were not harvested in the fall, then this can be done at the end of winter or in spring, before the buds swell.

* For summer grafting, cuttings are cut right before the procedure. The main thing here is that the base of the cutting is woody, and there are 2 formed buds.

WHAT TO WHAT WE CAN INTAKE

The most important condition for a high-quality and successful fusion of the rootstock and scion is their botanical relationship (in other words, like is grafted onto like).

According to the degree of this relationship, they are distinguished:

* intraspecific grafting - when grafting, for example, varietal cherries on wild cherries;

* interspecific vaccinations - for example, grafting cherries on cherries, and plums - on cherry plums;

* intergeneric vaccinations - for example, pear grafting on quince, plums on apricots, and peaches on plums.

Vaccinations are easiest within a species, and most difficult between genera.

Many years of vaccination experience has revealed the following interdependence:

* For stone fruit trees, cherry plum is the best stock. Wild plums can also be used.

* Cherries and cherries can be grafted onto wild cherries and one of the species of wild bird cherry - Antipka. In the North-West zone, seedlings of Vladimirskaya, Korostynskaya and other local varieties and forms or root suckers from them are considered successful for cherries. In the Central region of Russia, for cherries, you can use clonal rootstocks Izmailovskaya (PN), Moskovia, (P-3), AVCH-2, VP-1, Rubin.

* Felt cherry can be grafted on the Ussuri plum, on cherry plum, turnip, less often on apricot.

* For apple trees, the best rootstocks are seedlings of varieties Antonovka, Anis, as well as varieties that are resistant to local conditions. Vegetatively propagating and clonal rootstocks are often used, such as A2, MM 106, 5-25-3, 54-118, M9, 62-396, and so on. A good stock will also be Kitayka, or a lily apple tree.

* For pears, the best rootstocks will be forest and Ussuriyskaya pear, as well as seedlings of the varieties Tonkovotka, Limonka, Aleksandrovka, Vishnevka, which have good winter hardiness. It must be remembered that the pear "accepts" only the pear. Although she herself is grafted onto quince, and apple tree, and chokeberry, and red rowan. And Michurin generally grafted a pear on a lemon.

* For plums, seedlings of local forms of cherry plum are most often used as rootstocks. You can also use seedlings of thorny plums, as well as large-fruited forms of thorns. Vegetatively propagated rootstocks Eurasia 43, SVG-11-19, VVA-1 are also suitable. An excellent stock for dwarf plums will be the blackthorn, which has the greatest winter hardiness.

* For apricots, the main rootstocks are apricot seedlings. The seedlings of the vents have also proven themselves well; seedlings of cherry plum, blackthorn and sand cherry are less commonly used. But the apricots themselves (like peaches) are rather "dysfunctional" rootstocks for all stone fruits.

* Plum, cherry plum, felt cherry, apricot, blackthorn and almonds are suitable for peaches (it is worth noting: peach grafting is a rather painstaking task ...)

* Gooseberries can be grafted onto seedlings, root suckers and 1-2-year-old golden currant seedlings. Gooseberry varieties grafted onto golden currants will be distinguished by increased productivity and drought resistance.

* For mountain ash, seedlings of common mountain ash serve as rootstocks, you can also graft mountain ash on chokeberry and hawthorn.

You can use the table of compatibility of grafts and rootstocks of different crops.

Rootstock

Graft

Aronia

Hawthorn

Irga

Cotoneaster

Pear

Apple tree

Rowan

Aronia

Hawthorn

Irga

Cotoneaster

Pear

Apple tree

Rowan

True, our curious gardeners do not get tired of experimenting - the facts are haunted by the fact that in Bulgaria currants are grafted onto cherries, and a neighbor's apples and pears flaunt on the same tree ...

TIPS FROM EXPERIENCED GARDENERS

* If you have chosen a candidate for a stock in the forest, dug it out and brought it to the country, then the transplanted tree must be given the opportunity to take root and grow stronger in a new place. In a year or two, he will be able to become a stock.

* If the tree you have chosen does not grow in the place where you would like to have new variety, you must first transplant it and give it 1-2 years for rooting. And only then proceed with the vaccination.

* If you want to grow a dwarf tree, then do this: use chokeberry (chokeberry) for an apple tree stock; for a pear stock, take either irga or quince; for a peach stock, choose almonds, and for a kumquat, choose an orange.

* When choosing a stock and a scion, remember - they must be healthy and young! A diseased tree spends energy on its recovery, it has no time for splicing. And in old trees, the process of cambial cell division is no longer as fast as in young trees, and therefore the process of accretion will be worse.

* When harvesting cherry cuttings, keep in mind that there are many flower buds... Therefore, take longer shoots from young trees (which have fewer flower buds).

Vaccination, as it turns out, is a necessary thing. And important. And not very difficult. I think we have convinced you of this.

Pear is the second most popular fruit tree among our gardeners. There is it in almost every garden. Its disadvantage is that it grows very quickly.

Pear seedlings of different varieties, planted on small area, over time will close all other cultures from the sun. To make the most efficient use of the garden area, you can use the grafting method of growing. Then you can get a variety of varieties and save space, since the trees are quite compact at the same time.

In addition, it often happens that by visiting the nursery of seedlings and purchasing good grade, the gardener does not get any result, since the plant dies. The fact is that the pear absolutely does not tolerate swampy soils. If the level groundwater on the site is too high, it is also worth trying to graft a pear to another fruit and berry culture, more stable in this regard.

Vaccination can be done on chokeberry or ordinary mountain ash, irga, hawthorn, quince, undersized apple tree. So, let's see how to graft a pear to a mountain ash. This is not too difficult to do, but the process requires some care. The pear, unlike the apple tree, generally tolerates vaccination very well.

First of all, of course, you need to plant the mountain ash itself. The vaccine is done in the second year of its growth. This is the most optimal time. You can, of course, think about how to graft a pear to an adult tree, but in this case the probability positive result below. As a starting material, you can use both wild and As for the pear, then its variety can be almost any. These two plants are very compatible with each other. If the pear variety is not suitable for grafting on mountain ash, an intermediate method is used, when a compatible stalk is first grafted, and then, already on it, the one that is needed.

You need to start work either in early spring, or in the second half of summer, during the period of secondary sap flow. A pear stalk is grafted using the splitting method at a height of about 20 cm from the root collar of mountain ash. The thickness of its stem in this place should be at least 6-9 mm. When deciding how to graft a pear into an adult tree, you need to choose healthy, well-leafy branches.

Finally, some useful tips:

  • In the resulting mixed crown, at least 25% of rowan branches are left.
  • Since the trunk of the pear is thicker than the trunk of the mountain ash, over time an influx is formed at the grafting site. In strong winds, the tree may break. To remedy the situation, in the second year, young rowan seedlings are planted next to it and grafted onto the trunk of a pear using the ablation method. The result is a very interesting octopus tree.
  • For the normal development of the pear, cross-pollination is necessary. Therefore, at least three different varieties of this fruit tree should grow on the site.
  • The disadvantage of grafting a pear on a mountain ash can be considered that the latter reacts very badly to a lack of moisture. At the same time, in dry years, the fruits can change their taste qualities not in better side... In this case, you need to water the resulting tree well.

So, we examined the question of how to plant a pear on a mountain ash. As you can see, this process is not complicated, but it has some of its own nuances. With a certain amount of accuracy, it will not be difficult to grow a pear in this way.

Blackthorn and sandy cherries. Seedlings from seeds of local forms of unvaccinated apricots, the so-called poles, are more winter-hardy than those grown from seeds of cultivated varieties. Cherry plum is best used as a rootstock when you are going to grow an apricot on moist loamy soils. Under these conditions, its trees grow and bear fruit better on cherry plum rootstocks than on poles.

Common quince- seedlings of varieties and forms of common quince, the most winter-hardy in a given area, are used as rootstocks.

Japanese quince (henomeles) - best forms henomeles is grafted on stocks of common quince, pear, irgi, hawthorn.

Viburnum- cuttings and eyes of varietal viburnum can be grafted into the crown on the seedlings of the common viburnum.

Dogwood- seedlings of cultivated varieties or wild-growing dogwood are used as rootstocks.

Plum- for this culture, seedlings of local forms of cherry plum are most often used as rootstocks, less often of local red plum. Can be used for this purpose

I made the first attempt to plant an apple tree about 25 years ago. We lived then in the village of Vostochny, Kirov region. It had just begun to be rebuilt in the forest, specialists came from different ends Soviet Union... Of horticultural crops, they mainly grew berry bushes: gooseberries, currants, strawberries. I brought a sea buckthorn shoot from Kazan and was the first in the village to bring it to fruiting.

There was nowhere to buy fruit tree seedlings. A neighbor on the site brought apple trees from Gorky (now Nizhny Novgorod). They took root and began to bear fruit. It became enviable. No wonder they say that a garden is without apple trees, that a wedding is without an accordion. I agreed with a neighbor about cuttings, but there was no suitable stock. Therefore, I decided to plant an apple tree on the mountain ash that I grew up with. Inoculated in the way for the bark in May. After a few days, leaves began to appear, but then quickly faded.

The next year I tried again - and again a failure, which I solved only a few years later: I used a stalk cut from an apple tree on the same day, it did not have time to grow to the stock before the leaves bloomed. They died due to lack of mineral nutrition.

Only 15 years later, I repeated my attempts to plant other crops on mountain ash. He started with chokeberry, which now grows in the form of a tree, giving good harvests large and juicy berries. Then, on the same mountain ash, he planted a pear of the Lada variety, which bears fruit for the third year. This year, for the experiment, I planted the White filling apple tree on the same tree. Over the summer, a shoot 93 cm long has grown. I will wait for fruiting.

On the second mountain ash, I planted August dew pears and an unknown variety autumn term fruiting (the cutting was brought from Nizhnekamsk). Both varieties have been bearing fruit for several years. Their number is increasing every year.

Many years ago in the club of amateur gardeners, organized in the editorial office of the newspaper "Sam Owner", I was presented with a stalk of Nevezhin mountain ash. It was in August, so I had to do budding (inoculation with a kidney in the butt).

I used irga as a stock, the shoots of which I took from a neighbor a year ago. I planted her in a rotten corner, she didn't grow well. Perhaps for this reason, the kidney woke up only in the middle of summer. next year and gave a weak increase.

The grafted mountain ash developed poorly in the future, so after 2 years I decided to transplant it. I deliberately buried the seedling in such a way that the graft would be in the depth, and the nevezhin mountain ash formed its roots.

I kept the growing mountain ash on stretchers for three years. But as soon as he took it off, the same evening a hurricane swept through, breaking trees in a birch grove in Derbyshki. Fortunately for us, the mountain ash survived, but its trunk was tilted at an angle of 50 degrees. And so it grows bent over, giving delicious berries both us and our neighbors. The barrel diameter is currently 17 cm.

Ruslan CHECHETKIN,
Kazan