Today we will talk about white currants. We will tell you how to plant white currants correctly in spring, choose a planting site and suitable soil. After reading this article, you will have enough knowledge to grow healthy and fruitful currants.
Did you know? The currant belongs to the order of the Stonefragment. This order also includes peonies, incense and money tree.
The best varieties of white currant
First you need to figure out what is the difference between white currants and black or red ones.
In addition to color, white currants have other features: they are more suitable for older people than black and red ones, due to their ability to prevent diseases that are associated with increased blood clotting.
Also, white currant has less ascorbic acid in its composition, therefore it is more appreciated by people with high stomach acidity. Let's choose the most valuable currant varieties.
The most common variety of white currant. it mid-season variety, which has a sprawling low bush. Versailles currant gives large berries (diameter - 1.1 cm, weight - 0.7 g). The plant is moderately hardy, gives an average yield (about 8 tons per hectare).
Important! This variety white currant resistant to powdery mildew.
- mid-early variety, which is highly resistant to cold, very delicious berries and early maturity. The bush of this variety is semi-spreading, of medium height. The berries have a weight of 0.5 g, the yield per hectare is about 5.8 tons. The main advantages of this variety are annual fruiting and high resistance to frost (since the variety was bred for temperature conditions Siberia).
This variety was also bred in Siberia. Belyana has average term ripening. The bushes of this variety are small, semi-spreading. The berries can reach a weight of 1.5 g, which is different from the berries of the previous varieties. Ripen at the same time (however, they have poor transportability). The Belyana variety is immune to powdery mildew. The main advantages of the variety are self-fertility and good annual yield. The disadvantages include the fact that the plant is exposed to anthracnose.
This variety is winter-hardy, has an early ripening period of berries. Dutch white gives good harvest; berries are large enough, rounded. This variety has a bush irregular shape, low. The advantages of the Dutch White are resistance to anthracnose damage, self-fertility and easy propagation by cuttings.
A mid-season variety that was developed in the Czech Republic. Primus produces large berries weighing 1 g (about 10 kg of berries are obtained from the bush). The plant is resistant to frost, anthracnose, powdery mildew and gall aphids.
All varieties of white currant have both pros and cons. Some give big harvest, but have little resistance to disease. Others do not get sick, but also bear less fruit. Of course, there are varieties that combine disease resistance and yield, but they are not easy to find.
The main thing when choosing currants is to buy what you need. Therefore, carefully inspect the seedlings when buying.
Correct planting of white currants
After you have looked after the desired variety, go to the right choice seedlings, places for planting and soil preparation.
How to choose a seedling
When buying a seedling, it is difficult to determine its variety, condition and presence of diseases. Therefore, you should pay attention to the following:
- Roots. If the root system of a seedling is completely cut off, then it immediately disappears. Ideally, it should have two main roots (at least 40 cm long) and many small adventitious roots. It is better to take a seedling with wet roots, which are placed in a container with water or a special mineralized mixture.
- Branchiness of the shoot. If you have a seedling in front of you without shoots and shoots, then you should definitely refuse such a purchase. Choose well-branched saplings with whole branches.
Important! Examine the branches of the seedling carefully. If it seems to you that they are dry or semi-dry - refuse to purchase.
For landing, you need to choose a sunny place that is weakly blown by the winds. If possible, choose a location where the groundwater is about 2 m deep.
Do not plant currants in lowlands, where moisture will accumulate in the spring. In such places, the plant will be covered with lichens and wither away.
Important! Currant yields maximum yields when pollinated with pollen of other varieties.
Soil preparation and fertilization
If we talk about the soil for white currants, then it is unpretentious to the substrate in which it is planted. It will dry up and wither only on salt marshes or in waterlogged soil.
However, to obtain the maximum yield and healthy seedlings for seedlings, currants should be planted in more fertile soil.
Planting of white currants is carried out both in autumn and in spring (after the ground has warmed up). Loamy soil is excellent for the plant, which is dug up and cleared of weeds before planting.
When planting in the fall, holes are dug in advance so that the soil has time to settle. They should be about 40 cm deep and 50 cm wide.
Important! When digging a hole, the top fertile layer must be set aside separately. The bottom layer is mixed with mineral fertilizers.
When planting, the roots are distributed over the entire depression and covered first with a mixture of mineral fertilizers (peat, humus, superphosphate), and then with earth from the upper layer. It is important not to overdo it with fertilizers, otherwise you will burn the currant roots.
The plant must be planted at an angle of 40-45˚ to develop a strong root system. When planting several bushes nearby, maintain a distance of 1 m so that the plants do not drown out each other.
Growing and caring for white currants
You planted a bush and it took root. Now the main thing is to properly care for the plant, apply fertilizers on time and carry out pruning.
How to care for the soil
When the first buds of the plant begin to swell, it should be watered from time to time. hot water(temperature up to 70˚С). This way you will rid him of possible pests who sleep in the ground.
It is necessary to loosen the soil and feed the white currants. Loosening should also be carried out if the soil near the currants is woody (the roots of the plant must breathe).
After processing the soil, the ground near the bush can be covered with rotted leaves or other organic matter. So you feed young plant, protect it from pests, drying out and hypothermia of the roots.
Do not forget about watering. It should be done more often on hot sunny days. But it is worth refusing to moisten the soil with a sharp drop in temperature or strong winds, since the roots can freeze.
Thus, white currants do not require specific care and expensive feeding. At proper care the seedling will quickly take root and give a good harvest.
Correct pruning and shaping of the white currant bush
Currant pruning is an essential part of plant care. Each extra branch is the spent strength and energy of the plant.
In addition to healthy branches, the bush spends energy on sick ones that do not bring crops. That's why don't skip this part of white currant grooming.
Did you know? Unripe currant berries contain 4 times more vitamin C than ripe ones. With ripening, the amount of vitamins decreases. Their minimum is contained in overripe berries.
Currant pruning is carried out for the first time immediately after planting. In this case, the tops of all shoots are removed, leaving 3 buds on each. Thus, the crown of a new bush is formed. 
Pruning of white currants, unlike black ones, is carried out not in autumn, but in spring (sometimes in summer, after harvest). Pruning consists of removing old branches (which are at least 7 years old), excess zero shoots (shown in the picture below), broken, diseased and frozen branches. 
The correct bush should consist of 20 branches that are no more than 8 years old.
If you follow the instructions, you will get a bush with a well-developed crown and big amount small fruit branches.
Harvesting
You need to pick currants in warm, dry weather. This will give you a product that will last as long as possible. Pluck the berries with tassels, carefully so as not to wrinkle. For collection, you can use wide baskets or other containers with a wide bottom.
Important!If the berry is to be transported, then it is harvested until it is fully ripe.
If the berries of your white currant variety ripen at the same time, then you need to harvest the entire crop on time so that it does not overripe and crumble. If the currants are not processed, then they are placed in the refrigerator on the day of collection and stored there.
It is also worth knowing that if there is dew on the opal currant, then it needs to be dried on fresh air and only then put in plastic bags and store in a cool place.
The main thing when picking currants is not to crush the berries and do not put them wet in storage in order to avoid rotting.
Breeding methods for white currant
The simplest and most popular propagation method is cuttings.
Cuttings are taken only from annual shoots, while the shoot must be healthy and intact. The stalk is cut with a length of about 25-30 cm. After cutting, it must be dipped in paraffin so that the future seedling does not lose moisture. As such, the seedling can be stored in the refrigerator until it is planted. 
Before planting, the paraffin is cut off sharp knife... Cuttings are planted so that no more than 2 buds remain on the surface (and at least 4 buds under the ground). After planting, the soil is fertilized with peat or humus. The main thing at this moment is to preserve moisture in the cuttings as much as possible.
The second method of reproduction is horizontal layering. To do this, in the spring, under the mother bushes, grooves are made up to 10 cm deep. Developed two-year-old shoots are laid in them, pinned with hooks and covered with earth in the middle of the shoot. 
During the summer, the layers are mulched and watered abundantly. When autumn comes, the rooted shoots are separated from the mother bush and transplanted to another place. Those layers that are poorly rooted are left for the next year, without separating them from the mother bush.
White currants are not propagated by seeds at home, since this is a very time-consuming job, and the percentage of young plants is very small.
Foreword
Why are they planted in the fall?
Shrubs of red and white currants can be found on almost every summer cottage... Like other spring-flowering species, they are prone to desiccation, therefore, late planting after winter often causes the death of this plant. Planting in the fall has several advantages. Firstly, when planted before winter, shrubs get the opportunity to grow the so-called suction rhizome, which is necessary for optimal plant nutrition. Therefore, this technique provides an earlier and higher yield of currants compared to spring planting.
Secondly, since shrubs are naturally hardened in autumn, they will be healthier and more resistant to numerous diseases, different kind garden pests, as well as early frosts or summer drought, so it is more correct to plant red and white currants before cold weather. Due to the predominance of the descending current characteristic of autumn, the bushes quickly take root, take root and grow much faster than those that were planted in spring... An additional pleasant bonus can be considered the fact that the method facilitates the work of the gardener, providing an opportunity to divide the planting work into the autumn and spring seasons.
How do I prepare for boarding?
First of all, you need to decide on the place where you plan to plant shrubs. Since white and red currants are very fond of light, then ideal option there will be well-lit, southern garden plots with a low level of groundwater. It is advisable that the place you have chosen was extremely protected from the winds. It is not recommended to use shaded areas for planting currants, as this will significantly reduce the level of yield, as well as the taste of the berries.
The next step will be soil preparation. First, you need to thoroughly weed the area, clear it of weeds and dig it to a depth of about 30 cm. Currant grows well in areas rich in chernozem, drained soil, as well as on loamy and sandy loam non-acidic soils. To obtain the most favorable results, the soil must be properly saturated with organic fertilizers, potassium sulfate, humus, and also special superphosphate in granules before planting.
If necessary, you can rid the soil of high acidity by treating it dolomite flour, chalk, lime or wood ash.
At the end of the preparatory work of the soil, level the surface with a rake. After that, you can proceed to the preparation of the planting pit, the depth of which should be about 40 cm and the diameter - 50 cm. This must be done a couple of weeks before planting. The bottom of the pit is filled with a special nutrient mixture consisting of humus, compost, sand intended for clay soils as well as sifted wood ash.
For regions with a temperate climate, for example, in Ukraine, in autumn experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant white or red currant bushes in the ground from mid-September to the end of October. However, it is first of all necessary to be guided by the air temperature, which should be at least 16 degrees. Is it possible to plant currant seedlings when autumn is already coming to an end? Almost everyone agrees that it is not recommended to delay the process, since the roots of the plant must sufficiently strengthen and adapt before the first frost begins.
We settle white and red currants in a new place
Planting red currants in the fall, as well as white ones, can be done with shrubs or seedlings. Each method has its own characteristics. Let's consider them in more detail.
Only young plants can be planted with shrubs. As practice shows, perennial plants they do not tolerate a transplant and most often simply die before the onset of spring. In this case, it is recommended to cut several cuttings with leaf internodes from the branches of a currant bush and plant them in open ground at a slight slope. But we'll talk about this later, and it will be possible to correctly transplant a young bush only when all its foliage has fallen off.
At the initial stage, you need to carefully dig it up. This should be done very carefully so as not to damage the rhizome. Plant the plant in a pre-prepared planting hole. If you are replanting several bushes, make sure that the distance between them is at least one and a half meters. After that, sprinkle the rhizome with earth with the addition of ash and sand. Next, form a hole necessary to retain moisture, then water the shrub abundantly. At the final stage, mulch the soil with dry foliage or peat chips.
If you are going to plant white and red currants with seedlings, then first you need to decide on the variety. The perfect choice in this case, there will be those varieties that differ in hanging cold resistance and a strong root system. Among the varieties of white currant for planting seedlings in the fall, "White", "Pearl" and "Potapenko" are suitable. As for the red one, then knowledgeable people recommend to give preference to such names as "Jonker", "Krasnaya Andreichenko", "Red Cross" or "Sugar".
When choosing seedlings, pay attention to their root system. The length of the rhizome should be more than 20 cm. Be sure to remove broken or dry roots. Otherwise, the plant will not take root. At the next stage, the seedling must be prepared for planting by saturating it with moisture. To do this, you need to immerse it in water for about 2-3 hours.
Now put raspberry twigs on the bottom of the previously prepared hole, add organic fertilizers, then form a small mound of the compost. Moisten it and gently submerge the roots of the seedling there. At the same time, it is correct to place future currant bushes at a certain slope (about 40–45 degrees). Finally, cover the rhizome with earth and mulch with straw or flooring from branches.
What will be required next?
As you can see, it is not very difficult to plant the bushes correctly in the fall, and further care for white and red currants is extremely simple and does not take much time. When spring comes, about twice a month it is necessary to loosen the ground around the shrub so that the plant can receive the necessary nutrition and also breathe freely. It is necessary to water the currants with the onset of the summer heat, during the ripening of fruits and harvesting.
You should not arrange moisturizing sessions for the bush too often to avoid possible decay of the rhizome. The best option watering - 2 buckets for each shrub about 3-4 times a week. When moisture is absorbed into the soil, the soil should be slightly loosened and mulched. About once a month, shrubs should be fed with organic and.
There are not many varieties of red and, especially, white currants in the State Register. But for planting in the garden is enough. We will introduce you to the best varieties that differ in large berries good taste, disease resistance, self-fertility, high yield and winter hardiness.
Early sweet. Ripens in late June - early July. Productivity up to 6 kg per bush. Red berries, weighing up to 0.7 g, dessert taste. The bush is medium-sized, slightly spreading.
Jonker van Tete. Ripens in early July. Dutch variety. Productivity up to 5 kg per bush. Berries are dark red, weighing up to 0.7 g, good taste. The bush is tall and compact. Anthracnose resistant.
Rachnovskaya. Ripens in early July. Productivity up to 6 kg per bush. Red berries, weighing up to 0.7 g, sweet and sour taste. The bush is of medium vigor, medium spreading. Resistant to powdery mildew.
Konstantinovskaya. Ripens in the first half of July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. Red berries, weighing up to 0.7 g, sweet and sour taste. The bush is medium-sized, medium-spreading. The variety has increased resistance to unfavorable climatic conditions, is rarely affected by pests and diseases.
Gazelle. Ripens in the 2-3rd decade of July. Productivity up to 6 kg per bush. Berries are red, weighing up to 1 g, sweet and sour, almost dessert taste. Slightly spreading bush. Almost not affected by pests and diseases.
Natalie. Ripens in the 2-3rd decade of July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. Red berries, weighing up to 0.7 g, good sweet and sour taste. The bush is wide, medium spreading, dense. Anthracnose and powdery mildew are rarely affected. Valentinovka. Ripens in late July - early a. Productivity up to 7 kg per bush. Red berries, weighing up to 1 g, sweet and sour refreshing taste. Slightly spreading bush. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Dutch red. Foreign winter hardy variety... Ripens at the end of July. Productivity 4-6 kg per bush. Red berries, weighing up to 0.7 g, sweet and sour taste. The bush is compact. Anthracnose and powdery mildew are rarely affected.
Dutch pink. A promising Dutch variety. Ripens in mid-July. Self-fertility and yield are low (2-3 kg per bush). Weak winter hardiness. Berries are light red or pink, weighing 0.6-0.8 g, superior in taste to all varieties of red and white currants. The bush is medium-sized, compact, rare. Resistant to pests and diseases.
White Fairy (Diamond). A promising variety. Ripens in mid-July. Productivity up to 5 kg per bush. Berries are white, weighing up to 0.8 g, sweet and sour, pleasant to the taste. The bush is medium-sized, dense, slightly spreading. Disease resistant, slightly damaged by pests.
Versailles white. Foreign grade. Ripens in mid-July. Productivity up to 3 kg per bush. Berries are creamy white, weighing up to 0.6 g, dessert taste. The bush is medium-sized.
Yuterbogskaya. Ripens in mid-July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. Berries are white, weighing up to 0.8 g, dessert taste. The bush is powerful, with strong branches.
Smolyaninovskaya. Ripens at the end of July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. Berries are white, weighing up to 1 g, sweetish-sour. The bush is powerful, medium spreading. Resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose.
Purchase of currant seedlings
For seedlings of red and white currants, the same standards apply as for black currants. Only the root system of colored currants is usually weaker, and the roots themselves are less fibrous, and therefore drying is very dangerous for them. This must be borne in mind when buying and storing seedlings before planting.
It is often difficult for a gardener to distinguish black currants from colored ones. Let's show some of her characteristic signs... In young plants, the bark on the shoots is grayish, rough, with tightly pressed buds, while in black currant it is yellowish, the buds lag more behind the branches. There are no aromatic glands on the leaves and shoots of colored currants, so if you rub them lightly, there will be no specific currant smell. But it is almost impossible to distinguish red currants from white ones, here you will have to rely on the seller's conscientiousness.
Where to plant red or white currants in the garden
As we have already noted, colored currants are demanding for good lighting. With a lack of light, it gets sick, develops poorly, the yield gives much less than possible, the quality of the berries is low. Therefore, the bushes are planted in places open to the sun, protected from cold northerly and easterly winds.
Colored currants can be planted along the boundaries of the site along a low fence, stepping back from it by 1-1.5 m, or along the paths. This will be especially convenient if, in the future, the bushes are formed in the form of a flat trellis. The distance between the bushes depends on their size in adulthood. Plants with compact, erect crowns can be planted after 1.25 m, and large, spreading bushes - after 1.5. The rest of the placement is similar to black currant.
Preparing the planting site for currants
A place for planting colored currants is prepared in the same way as for black currants: they are leveled, the same amount of fertilizer is applied. They only dig deeper (30-40 cm), given the more powerful development of the root system. When digging, the lower, uncultivated layer of earth is not turned upwards.
Colored currants do not tolerate increased soil acidity. To lower it, ground limestone (300-400 g / m2) or slaked lime (250-300 g / m2) is evenly scattered before digging.
Planting colored currants
Colored currants are planted in the same way as black currants. You just need to be more careful about the landing time. Since colored currants take root worse than black currants, then best time planting works - early autumn (approximately from the beginning of September). Then the plants will have a longer period for rooting and good survival. Spring planting is extremely unfavorable and should be resorted to in exceptional cases.
Caring for the soil of colored currant bushes
In order to create optimal conditions for the work of the root system, good growth and fruiting of colored currants, the soil is loosened 3-4 times per season. But not deep, so as not to damage the roots: under the crown of the bush to a depth of 6-8 cm, behind the crown - 10-15. It is best to loosen the soil after rain or watering.
In the fall, they dig up the soil without breaking lumps. This is done early, as soon as the snow melts. The clods of earth are broken up and leveled with a rake. Spring loosening of the soil helps to retain moisture.
Watering colored currant bushes
Although colored currants are much lighter than black currants, tolerate a lack of moisture, they respond well to watering in early summer, during the growth of shoots and berry filling, as well as after harvest.
Water the plants abundantly, giving 1-2 buckets of water to a young bush and 3-4 to an adult. Water is poured into a circular trench dug along the projection of the crown. When the soil dries up a little, it is mulched with organic materials.
For better rooting, before planting, place the roots of colored currant seedlings for 2-3 hours in a solution with a root formation stimulator (root, epin and other similar preparations).
What fertilizers and additional nutrition for red and white currants are needed
Colored currants, distinguished by an abundance of leaves and fruit-bearing wood, make increased demands on soil fertility. The high consumption of nutrients by the bush has to be compensated for by the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers, otherwise one should not count on a rich harvest. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied annually in the spring (80-100 g of urea per bush). It is advisable to do this in 2 steps - at the beginning of shoot growth and after flowering.
A couple of years after planting in the fall, organic fertilizers (10-15 kg), phosphorus (100-150 g) and potash (50-60 g) are applied under the bush. In this composition, they can be given every 2-3 years. Fertilize the entire area under the crown, close up with loosening and watered.
In addition to making basic fertilizers, summer liquid top dressing with mullein, bird droppings and other organic matter is useful for colored currants. The first time the bushes are fed immediately after flowering, the second - 2-3 weeks before the berries ripen (application rates and concentration are the same as for black currant, see page 11).
Colored currants are very sensitive to chlorine, therefore, chlorine-containing fertilizers cannot be applied under it. And as potash fertilizer good use wood ash(100-150 g per bush). In addition, in addition to potassium, it contains phosphorus and calcium, and trace elements.
Formation of bushes
So that the bush does not thicken and the berries grow large, formative pruning is carried out within 5-6 years after planting. Of the basal shoots, 3-4 of the strongest are left annually, the rest are cut out. In this case, there should be a distance of 10-12 cm between the remaining shoots, otherwise the bush will thicken.
Sanitary pruning is done annually, removing diseased, weak and damaged branches. A bush of colored currants formed in this way has 15-20 branches of different ages by the age of 6.
Pruning bushes
When pruning an adult fruiting bush, the old 6-8-year-old branches are cut out at the very base. 2-3 strong basal shoots are left to replace them. It should be borne in mind that a colored currant annually grows a whole brush of weak, low basal shoots, which must be carefully cut out, clearing the base of the bush. In order not to be left without berries, the ends of annual shoots should not be shortened on skeletal branches. The fact is that in colored currants, their growth ends early, and well-ripened buds of the upper part in next year can give a lot of berries.
In this regard, special care should be taken when pruning frost-bitten branches. In early spring, it is difficult to determine how much the bush has suffered from frost. Therefore, it is better to postpone pruning to early summer. At this time, the regrowth zone is already clearly visible, which will make it easier to cut the frozen parts of the branches to places where the wood is not damaged.
Old but still fruitful branches can be rejuvenated. To do this, they are cut into a strong lateral branch.
Sanitary pruning is carried out at the same time.
As for the pruning technique, it is the same as for black currant. They are engaged in it at the same time, that is, in the spring before bud break and in the fall before frost.
How to propagate with horizontal layers
Colored currants are most often propagated by horizontal layers. To do this, in early spring, the soil is well loosened under the bush. To make it more breathable, you can add humus, compost, non-acidic peat.
Then, strong 1-2-year-old branches are selected and grooves are dug under them (radially to the base of the bush). Their length is equal to the bent branches, and the depth is 8-10 cm. Shoots are placed in these grooves, covered with soil, and pinned with wooden or wire hooks to keep them in a horizontal position. When the vertical shoots that have appeared grow up to 12 cm, they are covered with loose and moist soil (in the same state it should be throughout the summer).
In autumn - in the second half of September - the bent branches are cut off and divided into bushes. Well-developed layers are immediately planted on permanent place, and the weaker ones grow for another year.
How to propagate lignified cuttings
Colored currants can also be propagated by woody cuttings. Just keep in mind that they take root much worse than black. Cuttings of some foreign varieties take root especially badly. Annual shoots are cut in early autumn (late August - early September), when they mature well and the buds develop normally. Cut into pieces 18-20 cm long with 5-6 buds. In contrast to black, in colored currants, the top of the shoot is also used for cuttings. To enhance survival, it is advisable to dust the lower part of the cuttings with a root formation stimulator (epin, root) before planting.
They are planted immediately after processing, the planting technique and care are the same as for cuttings of black currant. The only difference is that for good rooting of cuttings of colored currants, the soil must be kept moist, especially in the first time after planting in the fall and in early spring next year.
Dividing a bush is the easiest way to propagate colored currants. They resort to it when uprooting old bushes or transferring plants to a new place. All old branches are cut out from a bush dug in the fall, the roots are freed from the soil, very thick ones are removed. Then the bush is carefully divided into 3-5 parts. It is better to do this with a pruner, in extreme cases with a sharp ax. Young branches are shortened, leaving short shoots with several buds. The bushes prepared in this way are immediately planted in a permanent place.
It is very pleasing that recently our gardeners have been devoting as much time as possible to the appearance of their site, trying to make it more attractive and beautiful. If you have set yourself such a goal, then you should pay attention to - a large shrub, which has long been successfully used in the form or to decorate the central part.
Outwardly, the plant looks simple and uncomplicated, but behind this simplicity there is an amazing beauty that delights the eye at any time of the year. V summer season flowers, which usually bloom in June, give the shrub a decorative effect.
In winter, in some varieties, the bark turns green, yellow or coral, which looks just gorgeous.
But the tree is especially magnificent in autumn: reddish-gray, white or black fruits are surrounded by foliage, painted in orange, green and purple shades. And all this color scheme manages to fit literally on every single sheet.
Planting deren
Another plus of deren when choosing plants for decorating a plot is its unpretentiousness. He:- grows well on almost any soil,
- tolerates excessive moisture and drought,
- frost-resistant,
- tolerates most adverse environmental conditions.
When planting a plant in a permanent place, there are still several nuances. Although the turf is unpretentious to, it is advisable to provide it with nutrients at first. To do this, in the prepared landing pit add a little - humus or compost. If the plant is planted in swampy soil or in a land with highly suitable groundwater, it is advisable to make an additional one. And if you just plan to purchase a ready-made seedling in the nursery, then it is advisable to choose a plant not older than 4 years: such seedlings take root better and will be able to give more young shoots when pruned.
Also, when planting a purchased seedling, be sure to pay attention to its roots. With dried roots, it is advisable to put the bush in water for several hours, which will allow the seedling to be saturated with moisture and better take root when planting.
For further cultivation of sod, you can choose fast or slow methods of its reproduction. The slow method is from seeds; for the quick one, cuttings, seedlings or cuttings are used.
Breeding deren
Seed propagation of deren
When planting deren seeds, it should be taken into account that they do not ripen at the same time, therefore, they must be collected selectively. Seed material retains its germination capacity for about 5 years. The sowing itself is carried out in the fall (almost before winter) or at the beginning of spring. In the selected area, we sow from 5 to 15 g of seeds for each square meter area. It is important that the planting depth does not exceed 5 cm.The deren bush with such a planting will grow to its standard sizes not earlier than in 5-8 years.Also, the seeds must pass mandatory for several months before planting. For this purpose, we use a substrate of sand, moss, sawdust and crushed peat. This mixture (its amount should be 3-4 times more than the number of seeds) is interlayered with seed material and kept at temperatures up to +5 ° C. Once again, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this method is really slow - even the fastest growing varieties of deren germinate about 2-3 years after planting.
Reproduction of deren by cuttings
This is the fastest and most productive way of breeding turf. For such a planting from a strong and large bush of the plant, it is necessary to cut green, slightly lignified cuttings. They are planted in early June, which allows the cuttings to take root and give powerful roots until autumn. On winter period young shoots or, or we send to the basement, and then in the spring we plant the shrub in the chosen place.Tree care
Pruning
plants selected for planting due to decorative painting foliage, carried out regularly, after the bush reaches the age of three: without such pruning, the lower part of the bush begins to bare. Derain, decorating the central part of the site, it is advisable to cut it so that the plant retains a compact and beautiful appearance... To do this, every 3-4 shoots are removed, naturally, while trying to choose the oldest and weakest of them. This pruning is usually done 2 times per year, in autumn and spring.Pruning of deren bushes, chosen for their brightly colored bark, is carried out every few years, in early spring.
This must be done in time before the leaves appear, while the plant is completely cut to a height of up to 20 cm from the base. By pruning it this way, it will produce a large number of new branches with beautifully colored bark.
For a deer, planted as a hedge, pruning is done twice a year: the first in July, the second in August, after the active growth of its shoots.
Watering
As already mentioned, the lawn is unpretentious, therefore it is needed only for young plants or in dry weather. In such cases, the bush is watered 2-3 times a month, while each bush takes about 1.5-2 buckets of water.Top dressing
also optional. But in order for the plant to have a healthier and more blooming appearance, it will not interfere with the annual mineral feeding in the spring (100-150 g per one bush) and organic in the summer (about 5-7 kg of compost or humus in trunk circle each bush).You will learn about the features of white deren and the nuances of planting and caring for it from this video:
Deren white varieties
Unfortunately, not all types and varieties of deren take root with us, most often they are planted for decorative purposes Cornus alba (white dogwood) which is widespread practically throughout the territory of Russia and in Eastern Europe... The most common varieties of this ornamental plant the following:Derain Sibirica Variegata (Siberian Variegata)
Bushes of this species can reach 2 meters in height, the leaves of the shrub have a white border. At the end of summer, the leaves turn brown-purple in color.
The bark of the branches is red and shiny. This variety does not bloom abundantly, but it is frost-hardy.
Derain f. Sibirica (Siberian form)
It is a densely growing shrub with many coral-colored shoots.
The height of the shrub is 1.5 m. The main advantage of this variety is the bark of a bright red color, which looks spectacular against the background of snow in winter.
Derain f.spaethii (Shpet Form)
This variety was bred about a century ago in the Shpet nursery. It is a large shrub up to 2 meters high, with brownish-red shoots. Leaves have an uneven and wide border yellow color around the edges, turn purple in autumn.
The variety is widespread everywhere, popular due to its unpretentiousness and winter hardiness.
Derain Ivory Halo
A bush with a low (up to 1.5 m) and dense crown, with a large number of ascending dark red shoots.
The leaves, like most varieties of this species, have a characteristic white border.
" Currant
Nature generously endowed currants, decorating not only with black and red berries, but also white ones, rewarding each variety with characteristic qualities. White currant bushes ennoble gardens, and the fruits are considered medicinal berries.
The homeland of currants is Europe and Russia, where, around the tenth century, shrubs with red berries met. White currant appeared some time later, as a result of the "domestication" of the red berry culture.
The plant belongs to the gooseberry family. Represents perennial shrub one and a half meters high. But in conditions of an ideal climate for a plant, a bush can reach two meters.
The bush is decorated with 3-5-lobed dense leaves, the edges of which are serrated. Small, inconspicuous flowers, yellow-green, collected in a brush, bloom in May.
Juicy, tasty fruits are yellow, cream or light pink in color, spherical, with a diameter of 6-10 mm. The ripening period is in July and August.
The plant has a number of benefits:
- subject to agricultural technology, the plant endows with annual bountiful harvests and is well suited for reproduction;
- berries are on the bushes for a long time and do not crumble until late autumn;
- not susceptibility to currant mite, which is the main enemy of the shrub;
- actively bears fruit both in dry and rainy weather conditions thanks to a strong and highly developed root system;
- frost resistance, therefore, will delight with tasty fruits, regardless of the weather;
- is an unpretentious berry, therefore, requires minimal maintenance;
- highly appreciated universal fruit taste and good transportability.
In addition to the significant advantages of culture, there are also minor disadvantages, namely:
- if the bush is not formed correctly, it starts bearing fruit late;
- grows poorly in shaded areas, bears poorly and is more severely damaged by diseases and pests.
Health benefits and harms
Except gentle and unique taste white currant is considered a source of nutrients, a storehouse of vitamins and minerals.
The healing composition makes the berry one of the most useful products and allows you to use it not only for preventive purposes, but also in the treatment of many diseases.
With a whole range of useful properties, has a positive effect on almost the entire human body because:
- provides full-fledged work systems of the heart and blood vessels;
- normalizes redox processes, improves immunity and protects the body from viral diseases;
- stimulates the secretion of bile, helps to strengthen liver cells;
- absorbs and removes salts of heavy metals from the body;
- helps to get rid of excess cholesterol;
- is a good antipyretic agent;
- prevents memory loss and the development of sclerosis in the elderly;
- rejuvenates the body and slows down the aging process;
- promotes mental and physical activity of the body.
But no matter how useful the berry is, there is a category of people who should refrain from using it so as not to harm their body. This group includes patients with gastritis, hyperacidity and a tendency to ulcers.
Since the composition of the berries is rich in organic acids, which can provoke exacerbations of the listed diseases. Also, you should not get carried away with the fruits with thrombophlebitis, since, due to the high content of vitamin K, it can increase blood clotting.
Healing berry is a supplier of nutrients to the body, which has a beneficial effect on human health. The main thing is to remember about contraindications, which will allow you to remove the maximum benefit from the product while not harming your health.
Planting and growing rules in autumn and spring
The plant is best planted in the fall. The event will start in the second half of September until the end of October. The main thing is not to miss the deadline so that young seedlings have time to take root in the soil before the cold weather and adapt to external conditions. It can also be planted in the spring, but it is necessary to plant as early as possible, as soon as the soil allows, and until the buds of the seedling have blossomed.
- Landing site definitions
Currants are demanding on location, humidity and heat, because they cannot stand a damp, swampy and very shaded place. Best of all, the culture will bear fruit in a sunny, windless area. With this in mind, seedlings should be planted on the south or southwest side. Planting should be carried out on clay, loamy and sandy soils. In addition, the level of groundwater disposal should be taken into account. And if their depth exceeds allowable rate, then it is imperative to plant it on bulk mounds. Excessive moisture can cause lichens to appear and plant death.
- Pit preparation technology for planting seedlings
Beforehand, in a few weeks, you need to dig up the site, clear it of weeds and apply fertilizer using compost and wood ash. Dig holes with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 40 cm under the bushes. The distance from one bush to another should be at least one meter. Equip the bottom of the pit with humus mixed with the ground. If the soil is highly acidic, then lime must be added.
- Planting process
High-quality planting material is a determining factor when laying currants, since weak and diseased seedlings will not make it possible to grow full-fledged, fertile berry bushes from them. A good seedling should have three large roots, about 15 cm long. Aboveground part should have at least two branches about 40 cm long.
Carefully place the seedling in the planting hole at an angle of 45̊, if possible with a slope to the north, so that the root grows to the south. Lower it by fifteen centimeters so that the plant can better develop additional roots and begin to grow quickly. Then gently spread the rhizomes, and cover them with fertile soil.
- Necessary measures after landing
Upon completion of the work, carefully compact the land around the bush, water it well and mulch with humus. Also, cut off the shoots of the seedling and leave only two buds above the ground. This procedure will promote the development of a healthy root system, a well-branched bush and a strong and healthy crop.
At the first time after planting, you should monitor the soil moisture, and, if necessary, water the plant.
Care consists in performing appropriate procedures that will help increase the yield and improve the quality of the berries. Such events include:
- Watering. White currants are very fond of water, so they need to be watered often, especially in dry times. To reduce the loss of moisture, it is recommended to mulch the ground around the shrub. The most regular watering is necessary for the plant during the period of the beginning of the appearance of berries and their ripening. So that weeds do not take moisture, nutrients and sunlight from the plant, you need to eliminate them in a timely manner.
The ingress of moisture on the leaves and fruits during watering is unacceptable.
- Pruning and shaping... In order for the bushes to be strong and bear fruit well, they should be cut in a timely manner and correctly. The first time the pruning is carried out after disembarkation. Remove all branches, while leaving three buds at the base of the shoot. This will help the plant to direct all its forces to root growth, which will subsequently enable the plant to release strong fruiting shoots in the spring.
A bunch of sprigs of white currant Perform formative pruning every fall, leaving about three strong shoots. Cut off the rest of the shoots at the very base.
It is important to carefully examine the plant and not allow the bushes to thicken and the shoots to age.
- Top dressing... The plant is responsive to good food, which is used as potassium, nitrogen, organic and phosphorus additives. After each fertilization, you need to mulch the soil with a mixture of peat and manure. This will help to better assimilate the fertilizers, as well as protect berry culture from weed growth and retains moisture. Will be useful and foliar feeding solutions of potassium permanganate or boric acid... This spraying will increase the size of the fruit and increase its set.
Timely implementation of these procedures will have a beneficial effect on the quality of the crop and the development of the bush as a whole.
The most famous varieties
Ural white
Uralskaya white grade mid-early ripening period. The densely growing shrub has a moderate height. Slightly curved shoots of medium thickness, have a greenish color with a pinkish pale bloom. Large five-lobed leaves have green color with sharp long teeth. The flowers are medium in size, the sepals are yellow-green, folded back. Rounded yellow berries, endowed with seeds in small quantities. Fruits for universal purposes have a pleasant sweet taste and slightly noticeable sourness.
White fairy
White fairy- mid-season, self-pollinating variety. The yield is high. A medium-sized bush forms very dense and lush. Brushes are thin, long. Berries about round shape, one-dimensional, weighing from 0.6 to 0.8 grams. The color of the fruit is white, with a yellow color. They differ in thin but dense skin. Delicate sweet and sour taste, no aroma.
Dessert Bayana
Dessert Bayana- a universal variety of the late ripening period. Is one of the best varieties white beauty in yield, fruit quality and disease resistance. Shrub of medium size, but very dense. The leaf is 3-5-lobed, large, light green, dull, slightly pubescent below, elongated. Berries are white, round, transparent. Juicy fruits having a pleasant sweet and sour taste and thin skin.
White currant is one of the most unpretentious plants in the garden. Also important are its taste properties, which are characterized by the content of many useful substances, so the culture is in great demand and great popularity.