Here's what you need to know about orchid leaf diseases, their treatment, and what they look like in pictures. Features of growing phalaenopsis orchids, possible care errors, diseases, pests

Orchid disease is a fairly common occurrence. Unfortunately, such a plant is very easily attacked by pests and various diseases. And here it does not matter how well the care was carried out. The most common problems include infectious diseases that occur as a result of improper plant care. The presence of such diseases often leads to the fact that the orchid dies. In addition, pathogenic microorganisms develop. Orchid diseases can also be caused by pests.

Plant diseases

The orchid is a popular plant grown on windowsills. Therefore, everyone should know the main diseases of orchids and how to eliminate them. Often the orchid suffers from infectious diseases. They mainly occur when the plant is not properly cared for. In addition, the orchid may develop mold, rot, spotting and other diseases. In some cases, pests can also be the culprit. Before proceeding with any action, you need to decide why this problem arose.

Non-infectious diseases of orchids

Often, inexperienced people who have not previously dealt with such flowers are faced with such a problem as yellowing of the leaves. Why does such a disease occur? This phenomenon can occur in cases where the plant does not receive proper lighting and watering, and is also kept in a cold place. No less dangerous is the steaming of the flower. This will manifestly have consequences more terrible than sunburn. Buds, buds and other parts of the plant are damaged here.

The consequences of erroneous plant cultivation

No less dangerous is frostbite of a plant at home. Of course, if the cold air acted on the orchid for a short time, then the consequences would be insignificant. If such an action lasted for 10 hours or more, then the plant's vegetative buds may die, and it may die completely.

In low light, the orchid begins to stretch, and the leaves change in color and shape. They become somewhat elongated and light green. Such changes make the plant unprotected against viruses and diseases. If the orchid is exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, this can lead to burn spots on the leaves. If the affected area is significantly large, then this can lead to the death of the entire plant.

Possible errors in the maintenance of a tropical flower

Viral diseases

Viral diseases are extremely rare in orchids at home. They may appear in different form. May appear on leaves and flowers various stains, circles, stripes and arrows. If you are sure that the flower is susceptible to a viral disease, then you need to place it as far as possible from other flowerpots. After that, the orchid must be shown to a specialist who will accurately indicate the cause of the changes. If the specialist confirms your fears, then there will be nothing left but to burn the plant, since it is a source of infection for other flowerpots.

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Leaf damage: why it occurs and how to treat it

Often an orchid suffers from leaf diseases, which can manifest themselves in various forms. Enough dangerous disease is bacterial spotting. As a result of damage, the leaves first turn yellow, and then darken. In this case, the leaf becomes soft, and wet ulcers appear on its surface.

Treatment at home begins with the fact that the affected areas are cut out. After that, the sections are treated with iodine or activated carbon. If the disease has damaged the lobar vein of the leaf, then strong drugs are used for treatment. They are also effective in advanced cases of the disease. If after 10 days no new spots appear, then the plant is considered non-infectious. And this means that the orchid can be placed in the old place near the rest of the flowerpots.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose manifests itself in well-defined spots that are brown and form on the leaves. With the development of the disease, the spots begin to connect and form one large plot, which has an indented surface. Over time, a plaque forms on the damaged area, which has a yellow or pink tint. Often anthracnose occurs as a result of high humidity. Also, the disease can occur if water stagnates on leaves or pseudobulbs.

To prevent the occurrence of anthracnose at home, it is necessary to monitor the level of humidity in the room. It should not exceed 70%. The room must be ventilated periodically. Watering should be carried out very carefully so that water does not get into the pseudobulbs. After watering, you need to check that there is no accumulation of water on the leaves. If the disease nevertheless overtook the plant, then it is necessary to completely remove the damaged areas, and treat all sections with ash or coal. Biological and chemical preparations are used to treat large areas.

powdery mildew

No less rare and dangerous disease is powdery mildew. As a result of the appearance of the disease, a white coating forms on the leaves. In appearance, this is similar to how the plant was sprinkled with flour. Over time, the damaged areas begin to dry out, which further leads to the death of the plant. The main reason for the appearance of a powdery race is high humidity and high room temperature.

The greenhouse effect of the house can be prevented by regular ventilation of the room. Also, prevention can be carried out with the help of special preparations. If powdery mildew appears, then spraying should be carried out immediately. Before processing, it is necessary to water well. After a couple of hours, you can start spraying.

rust on orchids

Rust, like the previous disease, is very dangerous for the plant. This fungal disease mainly affects the leaves of orchids. At first, light spots appear on the leaves. Over time, red pads form in these places. This indicates sporulation of the fungus. Basically, such diseases damage weak plants.

To cure an orchid at home, the damaged areas are cut out, and the sections are treated with activated charcoal or an alcohol solution. If the damage is quite large, then the leaf is completely removed. Also, the treatment is carried out by spraying. For this, chemical and biological preparations are used.

black mushrooms

Black fungus most often occurs as a result of damage to the plant various pests. It can be pests such as aphids, mealybugs and others. A black coating forms on the leaves, which clogs the mouths of the leaves. As a result, the light does not reach the plant in sufficient volume. This leads to the weakening of the plant and its death. The problem can be solved with the help of chemicals and biological preparations. You also need to make sure that pests do not live on the orchid.

Root and gray rot

Often, orchid houses are exposed to various rots that occur as a result of the appearance of bacteria and fungi on them. Most often this concerns root rot. With the appearance of such a disease, the leaves and roots begin to rot and change their shade. Most often this occurs as a result of high temperature and high humidity. To solve this problem, it is necessary to treat the plant three times. To do this, use a solution of foundationazole, topsin or benlat. It is best to carry out the procedure by immersion. The gap between treatments should be at least 10 days.

No less dangerous for the plant is the disease and gray rot, which is manifested by brown and black spots. They appear on the petals and sepals. Such spots have a fluffy coating. Such diseases most often occur as a result of improper flower care. This is especially true when the plant is kept in a cold place with high humidity for a long time. In such conditions, the orchid quickly weakens.

To cure a plant, you need to create optimal conditions for keeping the plant. First you need to adjust the watering, reduce humidity and regularly ventilate the room. If the areas of damage are large, then spraying with a fungicide should be carried out. Thus, you can get rid of the disease in a fairly short time.

Mold

Not less than a rare problem is a mold that forms in an orchid pot at home. Often inexperienced people wonder why such an education occurs. But, sometimes it does not matter, since in a small amount the mold does not pose a danger to the plant. But, with development, it begins to fill the pot, which leads to a decrease in oxygen access to the root system. Most often, mold occurs as a result of high humidity and excessive lighting.

The main ailments of a tropical plant

Getting rid of mold is quite difficult. First of all, you need to place the flower in a separate room and do not water for several days or reduce watering to a minimum. You also need to transplant the orchid in new pot. When transplanting, pay attention to root system. Here you need to determine the presence of rot and dry roots. Transplantation should not be carried out during the dormant period of the orchid.

Conclusion

Orchids are beautiful plants, which are often grown at home. They are especially beautiful when they bloom. Their color will decorate any room. But, unfortunately, they can be damaged by various diseases. Such problems can occur when orchids are in bloom or at rest. In any case, they need to be addressed immediately. Otherwise, the plants may die, and you will no longer see how they bloom.

First of all, you need to properly care for the flowerpot, especially when the orchids are in bloom. First of all, this concerns the humidity of the air in the room and the temperature regime. It is these factors that most often lead to the occurrence of various diseases. Proper watering and regular ventilation of the room will prevent the occurrence of such problems. You also need to carefully choose a place for a flowerpot.

If the orchid is still sick, then you need to immediately begin its treatment. Today in specialized stores you can find various drugs that will fix the problem. Here it is too late to decide why the problem arose: is it pests or improper care. It must be eliminated immediately.

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For orchids of this species, well-lit diffused sunlight premises. In nature, phalaenopsis grow on trees, and the sun's rays on the way to them have to overcome the crown. The eastern location of windows is considered ideal. If they are oriented to the south, control the intensity in summer solar radiation. Prolonged exposure to direct rays is detrimental to the plant. Shading of windows with paper, reflective foil, pieces of wallpaper will serve as protection. Phalaenopsis tends to reach for the light. To keep it stable and aesthetically pleasing, it must be rotated periodically.

Plants placed on the northern and western windows will have less flowering intensity. For proper development and flowering Phalaenopsis needs 12-, and preferably 15-hour daylight hours.

The temperature regime required by this type of orchid does not contradict what is usually the case in most living quarters. In summer it is +25, +28 degrees, in winter - +18, +20 is enough.

One of the main features of these orchids is the almost complete absence of dormant periods.

To lay flowers, phalaenopsis needs a decrease in temperature at night by 5–7 degrees. Such a temperature amplitude is common or quite possible in houses and apartments.

But lowering the temperature to +10 degrees can lead to the loss of the ability of the roots to absorb moisture. The plant transfers metabolic processes to the consumption of previously accumulated reserves, which is fraught with rapid deterioration of the life support system. The roots gradually atrophy, the leaves wrinkle, and the plant dies. Sometimes such a reaction to low temperatures is confused with insufficient watering. And the increase in the amount of moisture in such a situation exacerbates the situation even more.

Phalaenopsis needs fresh air. Frequent airing is very useful for the plant, but it must be protected from drafts, otherwise the plant may get sick.

This type of orchid is quite moisture-loving. For its normal life, it is necessary to constantly maintain humidity at the level of 60–80%.

If the room is heated during the cold season electric convectors or other devices that dry the air, the orchid must be additionally moistened with a spray bottle. In this case, the root system should be more moistened, and not the leaves.

Diseases and pests that most often affect the plant

Defeat by rot

A separate extensive category in this list are various types of rot. Scroll possible symptoms very broad and depends on local conditions, air humidity, watering intensity and room temperature. We list the most common and pronounced cases:

brown rot;
black rot;
root rot;
gray rot;
fusarium rot.

What does a sluggish, blackening leaf say

Some common phalaenopsis diseases show their symptoms on the leaves of the plant. Timely noticed changes in the color, structure and density of the leaves will help prevent the most detrimental consequences.

The most common diagnoses:

powdery mildew;
anthracnose;
leaf spot.

In the case of diagnosing a viral disease of an orchid, it, unfortunately, is not subject to treatment and resuscitation. Such a plant must be eliminated. Most effective way- burn the orchid.

A separate type of danger is the development of viral and fungal diseases in places of accumulation of waste products of aphids. Such places in themselves become breeding grounds for diseases.

Table: problems encountered when growing phalaenopsis

Treatment and prevention of diseases

As can be seen from the table of symptoms, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to many types of rot that affect all parts of the plant. Such a variety of diseases associated with decay is due to the moisture-loving nature of the flower, the specifics of substrate moisture and instability to prolonged temperature changes.

The appearance of viral and fungal diseases in most cases is associated with poor-quality, contaminated substrate. Less commonly, viral diseases are transferred to the plant from other indoor flowers.

What to do when the plant starts to rot

Treatment of diseases such as brown and black rot in advanced stages (more than 30% of the plant is affected) is almost impossible. If a smaller area is captured by rotting, you can try to save the flower. To do this, you need to perform some kind of operation. Carefully cut out the affected areas with a sterile knife, trying to minimize damage to healthy tissues. After the operation, sprinkle the cuts with coal dust and treat with Bordeaux mixture. The substrate must be discarded, the pots should be sterilized, and a clean, healthy substrate should be poured into them.

During rehabilitation, the orchid needs to create the most comfortable conditions: the minimum allowable air temperature difference (amplitude 5-7 degrees), stable humidification, air circulation in the room, but without drafts.

If other orchids are located in close proximity to the affected plant, they must be treated with Bordeaux mixture (other copper-containing preparations can also be used). The best prevention of such diseases is careful observance of ventilation, humidification, watering and lighting regimes.

If root rot is found in phalaenopsis, urgent measures must be taken urgently. Remove the substrate, dry the pot. Clean the roots of rot, remove the affected areas. After that, the root system must be treated in a special solution (0.2% Topsin or Fundazol). For the most beneficial effect, the roots are immersed in the solution 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Such an orchid should be transplanted into a disinfected clean substrate.

Prevention of root rot is careful observance of the regime of moistening and watering, as well as monitoring the condition of the substrate, its timely replacement.

The defeat of an orchid by Fusarium rot is most often associated with poor air circulation and a violation of the irrigation regime. Such rot affects all parts of the leaves, as well as young shoots. The leaves turn yellow, curl, become soft. Sometimes the process of fusarium decay is accompanied by the appearance of a plaque of fungal spores of a pink hue. With a large-scale lesion, treatment is impossible. In case of local infection, the orchid should be treated in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. This procedure should be performed 2-3 times a day for 10-14 days. In this case, the entire plant can be immersed in the solution along with the pot. Fundazol is the most effective fungicidal drug in the fight against Fusarium rot.

Fundazol is used to treat various kinds rot, in particular Fusarium. It is also suitable as a powdery mildew prophylaxis. Main active agent in this preparation - benomyl, which inhibits the vital processes of pathogenic cells, as a result of which they die. Systemic preventive measures using Fundazol will help prevent most of the putrefactive and fungal diseases of orchids. The proportions for the solution are as follows: 1 gram of Fundazol per 1 liter of water. The solution can be applied with a sprayer. Water the soil with a solution, wipe the leaves. After the solution dries, a white coating will appear on the plant. It is recommended to wash off the plaque only after a day. This is a fairly toxic substance, so it should be used in protective equipment. In many countries, Fundazol is banned due to toxicity. It is highly recommended not to contact pregnant women with it.

During treatment, spraying with water should be stopped. Direct drafts should not be allowed to enter the plant, while ventilation is necessary.

As in previous cases the best prevention Fusarium will become unconditional compliance with the regimes and rules for caring for phalaenopsis.

The fight against gray rot involves the removal of affected areas, followed by the treatment of healthy tissues with preparations containing fungicides. With extensive damage (more than 50%), the plant will have to be eliminated and all nearby indoor flowers treated with fungicides.

A fungicide is a substance (of chemical or biological origin) that inhibits the development of fungi.

Prevention of gray rot is similar to the steps described above.

Another danger is fungi.

Leaf spot and anthracnose are fungal diseases. Their symptoms are expressed by multiple local damage to the leaves. dark color. Such damage is more like a dent. Phalaenopsis is affected by anthracnose mainly due to high humidity. Another reason may be the stagnation of water in the bowls of young leaves and at the point of growth. An extensively affected plant is best eliminated. If there are not very many affected areas, they can be cut off, and healthy tissues can be treated with ash. Crushed activated charcoal is also suitable. The substrate should be changed and the pot sterilized. Throughout the rehabilitation period, the plant must be isolated from other similar flowers.

Prevention of fungal diseases is a strict adherence to the regime of watering and moisturizing, as well as the exclusion of water from entering the growth point and sinuses of young orchid shoots. Humidity of room air should be in the range of 40-70%. Airing is quite frequent, depending on the season.

A disease such as powdery mildew has pronounced symptoms. They are characterized by the appearance on the plant white coating. Moreover, such a plaque appears on all parts of the plant, including buds and inflorescences. Such a disease develops quickly and leads to the death of the orchid, if not taken in time. necessary measures treatment. The more rapid development of this disease contributes to increased temperature regime and abnormal high humidity air.

The method of treatment involves soaking the plant in a solution of colloidal sulfur. Preparations designed to combat powdery mildew are called Topsin-M, Skor, Fundazol.

Prevention includes periodic spraying of phalaenopsis with Fitosporin.

Viral diseases are incurable

The defeat of the Phalaenopsis orchid by viral diseases is a rare phenomenon. They appear with specific patterns and spots on the leaves of the plant. The affected plant must be immediately isolated from the rest and, without delay, eliminated. Treatments for viral diseases of orchids do not yet exist. At the same time, it is better to burn the orchid together with the substrate and the pot.

Prevention of viral diseases will be the observance of all the necessary regimens for the normal functioning of the flower.

Timely resuscitation will help restore the turgor of phalaenopsis leaves. These include providing the plant favorable conditions. Change its location in the room. Be sure to isolate the orchid from drafts, to prevent hypothermia. Substrate replacement often helps.

Photo gallery: the most common diseases

Prolonged exposure to low temperatures, high humidity leads to black rot root rot can completely destroy the plant Fusarium rot - dangerous enemy phalaenopsis The causes of brown rot may be the lack of sufficient circulation of fresh air, high humidity in the room Gray rot can cause the death of phalaenopsis This is how anthracnose manifests itself The leaf is affected by powdery mildew The plant is overcome by viruses

Phalaenopsis orchid pests and their control

The first measure to save from unwanted guests living in the substrate will be soaking a newly acquired plant in water. All uninvited guests will start to get out. If they were not, then it will be enough to dry the orchid.

Dropped buds, sticky spots - look for scale insects

Prevention will be washing the leaves every 4-5 days.

The use of Fitoverm insecticide for orchids provides for the following proportions: 2 ml of the drug per 50 ml of water. Spray the solution from the spray bottle to the entire plant. It should be clarified that Fitoverm only affects adult scale insects that are able to feed on their own. Therefore, the treatment is always carried out again after 5-7 days. Fitoverm can not be used in conjunction with other insecticides.
Fitoverm has low toxicity to humans.

How to save from a mealybug

White pest on yellowing leaves

The whitefly is dangerous with its larvae. They suck nutrients from orchid leaves. In this case, the plant itself turns yellow, loses its shape and may die. Identifying whitefly is easy. These are insects of a distinct white color similar to the usual midges. Hiding from the back of the sheet.

The fight against whitefly involves washing the leaves with a solution laundry soap(proportion of the solution: 1 to 6), spraying the flower and the substrate with Aktellik. Washing the leaves clean water once every 4-5 days.

For orchids, 2 ml of Aktellik is diluted in 100 ml of water, followed by bringing the volume of the solution to 1 liter with clean water. It will be usable within a day. It is necessary to spray the solution from a sprayer over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe plant. Repeat the procedure after 7-10 days. Do not spray insecticide indoors and be sure to use protective equipment.

Careful monitoring of plants, timely replacement and careful selection of the substrate will serve as a good prevention in pest control.

Root mite - the cause of root damage

The root mite infects the root system of the plant. High humidity promotes its rapid reproduction. The tick lives in an untreated substrate.

Control measures include removing the affected areas, disinfecting them with coal dust, replacing the substrate and disinfecting the pot. The roots themselves are also disinfected, for which a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is used.

Prevention will be a careful selection of the substrate, its timely replacement and the absence of waterlogging.

Whitefly larvae suck nutrients from orchid leaves Root mite seriously damages the root system of the plant Shchitovka brings the orchid to rapid exhaustion and death Phalaenopsis leaf occupied by a colony of mealybugs When thrips appear on phalaenopsis, you will have to remove flowers and buds, spray the plant and water the soil with a systemic insecticide multiply in incredible numbers, can suck out all the juice from an orchid

Disinfection of pots and substrate

To disinfect the pot, it can be treated with boiling water, sterilized under a stream of water vapor. But such methods can deform containers made of low-quality plastic. Best way- soaking the pot in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. When preparing a solution, be guided by its color, which should be pale pink, by no means bright, and certainly not purple. Then dry the pot, it will not be superfluous to wipe it with alcohol.

To disinfect the substrate, place it in a container of clean water and boil for 15 minutes, then dry it on a clean towel.

Video: pests and diseases of orchids

Reanimate and restore

Even a practically dead orchid can be saved. Ways to return to life depend on the condition of the plant and the cause of wilting. All resuscitation methods involve replacing the substrate and disinfecting the pot.

Leaves wither and fall

It is enough for a plant with withered leaves to provide the necessary conditions for normal life: first of all, observe the correct modes of moistening, watering, lighting and ventilation.

If the orchid has lost its leaves, then in addition to the above, it is necessary to feed the plant. Nitrogen fertilizers are suitable for this. But it is necessary to monitor the concentration of nitrogen, since its excess can lead to even worse consequences.

Examples of popular orchid fertilizers with a normal nitrogen concentration:

Greenworld for orchids;
Kemira Lux;
Cameleon;
Oasis;
Bona-forte.

The method of resuscitation of phalaenopsis that has lost leaves:

First of all, you need to inspect the root system. If it is abundantly affected by decay processes (more than 50%), then the plant is practically doomed. If most of the roots are elastic and clean in appearance, then they must be left, the rest removed and treated with coal dust.
Treat the prepared root system with a solution of Fundazol. (The proportions and method of application are indicated above).
Disinfect the substrate and pot.
After that, place the root system in a pot with a treated substrate, and the pot itself in plastic bag. The package should be spacious, creating a semblance of a greenhouse.
You need to tie the bag immediately after spraying the plant with water. The greenhouse must be often ventilated, run into it fresh air follows once a day.

You need to keep the orchid in the greenhouse until new leaves appear. After their formation, the plant should restore the normal mode of watering and spraying.

Do not let the root rot completely

The necessary care can help even a plant that has lost most of its root system.

Steps to resuscitate the phalaenopsis root system:

First of all, the plant must be removed from the substrate and rinsed well in warm running water.
Then you should dry the orchid. Within 2-3 hours, it should lie on paper or a towel at room temperature.
Inspect the remaining young roots and assess their condition. Usually in Phalaenopsis they have a light green color. Their structure should be elastic. The roots are slippery and soft, must be removed.
Remove all dead and suspicious roots. Treat the cut sites with coal dust or special antiseptic preparations. Young root shoots that have a healthy appearance are placed for a day in a strengthening mixture, which is sold in flower shops in the form of ampoules, powders, liquids. By the way, experienced growers It is recommended to carry out the strengthening procedure once a month, especially during the change of seasons. Orchids are watered by immersion in an aqueous solution, where such mixtures are added according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
After that, the plant must be placed in a vessel with water. The leaves should not come into contact with the liquid. Change the water in the vessel once a day.
After the growth of young roots to a length of 3-4 cm, transplant the orchid into the prepared soil.

Often, a flower has to be fixed in a new pot. This is necessary for better engraftment of the root system.

But, unfortunately, there is no escape from them. A diseased plant must be destroyed.

If light brown and watery spots appear on the shoots and young leaves of the orchid, most likely the plant has picked up brown rot. Over time, the spots may begin to darken, increase in size and connect with each other. Most often, this disease affects young leaves.

Abundant watering especially accelerates the process of damage and low temperature air in the place where the orchid is kept.

How to treat?

If damage is minimal, the orchid can still be helped. To do this, cut out the affected areas with a sharp instrument to healthy tissue. Next, the places of cuts should be sprinkled with crushed coal and treated with a copper-containing preparation. Keep the orchid after the "operation" should be in such conditions that are shown to a particular species.
If the damage is too severe, then it is almost impossible to cure an orchid that has fallen ill with brown rot. No matter how pathetic the plant is, it is best to destroy it before the diseased flower infects healthy plants.

Prevention. To prevent brown rot, you can spray an orchid blue vitriol 1 time per month.

Which orchids get sick most often? Phalaenopsis, cattleya, cymbidium and paphiopedilum are most susceptible to root rot.

This disease occurs most often due to too low a temperature of the content. Orchids are heat-loving plants, and if they are in the cold for a long time, they can get black rot. Also, the disease can appear on plants that have been weakened as a result of pest attacks or due to other diseases already present.

How to treat?

The affected areas should be removed to healthy tissues with a sterile knife (or scissors), and the affected areas should be treated charcoal or Bordeaux liquid. After that, the substrate in which the orchid grows must be disposed of, and the pot must be sterilized. When the plant is transplanted, it should create favorable conditions for successful restoration.
It is almost impossible to cure an orchid, most of which is affected by black rot - it remains only to get rid of the plant as soon as possible. But you can save the neighboring orchids in the collection, and other house plants. In the case of black rot, this can be considered a great success. To do this, treat the flowers closest to the diseased orchid with Bordeaux liquid or some other copper-containing preparation.

Prevention. The best prevention of many fungal diseases, which include black rot, is to follow all the rules for caring for an orchid.

Which orchids get sick most often? Fungal rot, which is the cause of the disease, most commonly affects orchid genera such as Paphiopedilum and Cattleya.

If an orchid is affected by root rot, the leaves of the flower begin to turn brown, and the roots rot and become soft. Too high temperature and high humidity are often the main factors that accelerate the development of the disease.

How to treat? It’s worth starting with the creation of favorable conditions for keeping the orchid, since the disease occurs most often due to violations in care. If an orchid is damaged by root rot, it is necessary to treat the roots and substrate of the plant with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol or a 0.2% solution of Topsin. To achieve a positive effect, it is desirable to carry out the procedure 3 times with an interval of 10-14 days. The easiest way to carry out the treatment is by immersing the pot in the solution.

Prevention. When planting an orchid, it is worth using high-quality disinfected soil - this will be the best prevention of root rot.

Which orchids get sick most often? More than other root rot orchids are susceptible to cymbidium, miltonia, paphiopedilum.

Fusarium rot

This disease also applies to rot and is manifested by yellowing of the leaves and the appearance of spots on them. Affects the disease and young shoots. The easiest way to identify Fusarium is by the leaf plates, which become soft, curl and may be covered with a pinkish bloom (fungal spores). If this happened to your orchid, the prognosis is disappointing. The most common cause of the disease is the lack of air circulation in the room and high humidity.

How to treat?

To rid the orchid of fusarium, you need to treat it in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol for 10 days, immersing the pot with the plant in it 3 times a day. Also, for a while, it is worth completely abandoning spraying, so as not to provoke the rapid development of the disease. It is also recommended to ventilate the room more often, while avoiding drafts.

Prevention. The best protection orchids from fusarium - compliance with all necessary rules care.

Which orchids get sick most often? Fusarium rot most often affects such orchids as phalaenopsis, miltonia, epidendrum.

The presence of gray rot on an orchid is easy to determine: it is characterized by dark islands covered with a gray fluffy coating, which can be seen first on the leaves, then on the soil, and ultimately on the flowers of the plant. Also, the presence of this disease will be prompted by brown specks on the flowers. Gray rot is another disease that is the result of improper orchid care. The reasons for its occurrence are the same - low temperature in combination with high humidity. However, excessive application of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content can also cause damage to the orchid by gray rot. A high concentration of this element often leads to the fact that plants become less resistant to this disease.

How to treat?

In case of severe damage to the orchid, the damaged areas should be removed, and then the plant should be sprayed with fungicides. At the same time, it is worth taking note that, in case of repeated damage to the same orchid by gray rot, the same preparation cannot be used. The spores of the fungus very quickly develop immunity against fungicidal preparations.

Prevention. When watering an orchid, you can use special preparations that increase its resistance to disease. Then the appearance of gray rot can be avoided. Well oh proper care don't forget the orchids.

When placing orchids in a home flower garden, you should not put them close to each other. If one of the plants gets sick with gray rot, then the disease can very quickly spread to neighboring specimens.

Which orchids get sick most often? Phalaenopsis, cymbidiums and cattleyas are susceptible to gray rot, which bloom with white flowers.

This disease is quite dangerous. It refers to infectious diseases, the development of which is facilitated by too bright lighting in the spring and summer, improper watering and excessive fertilization. You can determine leaf spot by dark wet spots that appear on weakened orchid leaves.

How to treat? To save the orchid, you will have to remove all affected leaves from the plant, and then spray the flower with a fungicide and do not water it for the next 4-5 days.

Which orchids get sick most often? Phalaenopsis are most commonly affected by this disease.

This disease often appears on leaves and sometimes on pseudobulbs. Signs of anthracnose - small and round, but clear spots Brown color, which over time can increase and merge. Large areas gradually become black and form dents. At a completely advanced stage, a yellowish or pinkish coating may appear on the spots. Most often, the orchid is affected by anthracnose due to too high humidity, as well as stagnation of water in the axils of the leaves or in the core of the pseudobulb. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus.

How to treat? Areas affected by anthracnose should be cut off from the orchid and burned. Places of cuts should be treated with activated carbon or ash. Copper-containing preparations will help cure the orchid. They need to process the flower 3 times, taking a break of 10 days between each procedure. After that, you should reduce watering and stop feeding the plant.

Prevention. To prevent anthracnose from appearing on the orchid, it must be kept at an air humidity of 40 to 70%. In addition, it is recommended to periodically ventilate the room with the flower so that the air does not stagnate, but circulates well. In addition, after watering, water from the axils of the leaves and cores of pseudobulbs must be removed with a cloth or napkin.

How to treat? Powdery mildew must be dealt with as soon as its signs have been found on the plant. This will cure the orchid without significant losses. A solution of colloidal sulfur helps well against powdery mildew. You can also cope with the disease with the help of Skor or Topsin-M preparations.

Prevention. In order to prevent powdery mildew, the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin (according to the instructions).

Which orchids get sick most often? Powdery mildew in equally all home orchids are susceptible.

Viral diseases

It is the last thing to be afraid of viral diseases, since orchids are rarely affected by them. Most often they are manifested by mosaic spotting on leaves and flowers. Also, with viral diseases on home tropics, you can see characteristic spots in the form of circles, stripes or arrows.

How to treat? Unfortunately, it is not possible to cure an orchid affected by a viral disease. If you suspect something is wrong with an epiphytic pet, it should be urgently isolated from other plants. If the assumption is confirmed, it is worth getting rid of the orchid.

Which orchids get sick most often? More common than other genera of orchids viral disease can pick up cymbidiums,

These flowers belong to the genus Orchids, which, in turn, belong to the class of epiphytes.. Foliage for epiphytes is of great importance. Thanks to orchid leaf plates:

maintain overall water balance;
get the right amount of nutrients;
take an active role in the respiratory process of photosynthesis;
evaporate excess moisture.

Attention: The tissues of the leafy plates of orchids are quite fleshy and dense, they serve as reservoirs for the accumulation of moisture by the flower, as well as beneficial nutrients minerals and trace elements.

Why might she be affected by the disease?

Orchid leaves are an indicator of the general condition of the whole plant.. If they are outwardly healthy, then all other parts feel comfortable. The causes of leaf damage by diseases are:

illiterate care;
orchid infection by harmful insects;
incorrect parameters for keeping at home;
the development of fungal and bacterial diseases against the background of hypothermia or waterlogging.

Step-by-step instructions for the treatment of ailments and their appearance in the photo

Most often, orchid leaves are infected with the following diseases, which have their own characteristics and ways to get rid of them.

Anthracnose

it fungal disease, it begins with the appearance of small rounded spots on the leaf plates. These spots begin to blacken over time. Each spot is characterized by concavity in the leaf of the plant..

After a while, a yellow or pink tint begins to appear on these spots. The reason for the development of anthracnose is considered to be high humidity or an excess of moisture in the leaf axils.

How to treat? You need to act according to the scheme:

Cut off all affected foliage.
Places of cuts must be treated with activated charcoal, iodine or wood ash.
Blot the accumulated moisture in the leaf axils with a cloth.
Carry out the treatment with means that contain copper - Vitaros, Hom, Forecast.

spotting

Leaf spot is a bacterial disease. On the leaves of an infected orchid appear dark spots, the leaves begin to turn yellow, darken, and then become soft and ulcers form on them from which liquid oozes. To save a flower you need:

Cut off all affected parts of the plant.
Be sure to treat the cut points with activated carbon powder.
Immediately treat with fungicides - Skor, Topsin-M, Fundazol.

Important: If after 10 days no new spots appear, then the plant is completely healthy.

stickiness

Procedure:

Remove infected flowers.
Wash the leaves of the plant with a cool solution of laundry soap.
Next, the flower should be processed with Aktara raster according to the instructions.

If there is a worm both in the roots and in the soil, you need to completely remove all individuals with tweezers by hand, and then transplant the plant into a new pot and another soil composition.

Deformation

Most often, deformation of the sheet can occur with mechanical damage.. But there are times when such changes indicate insufficient watering and even hypothermia of the plant.

When choosing fertilizers, it is worth monitoring its composition, if it contains a lot of nitrogen, this can cause leaf deformation - thickening, fractures, cracks.

To get rid of the problem you need:

Temporarily stop fertilizing.
Rinse the root system of the plant and transplant it into a new soil composition.

Burn

The cause of this disease is an excess of aggressive direct sunlight during a hot period.. Affected leaves become lighter, and eventually turn yellow and fade.

To save an orchid you need:

Trim the affected part of the leaf to a healthy green color, process the cut.
Make the light around the plant as diffused as possible.

Advice: If the incised leaves continue to turn yellow, it is better to remove them completely, and treat the cut points with ash or activated charcoal.

powdery mildew

This is a fungal infection. Infected leaves become mottled with a whitish coating, the plant appears to be floured outwardly.. The causes of the development of the disease are − high level humidity and high temperatures. Due to the combination of these indicators, an imaginary greenhouse effect occurs for the plant and it becomes ill.

To treat the disease, it is necessary to immediately spray the plant with a solution of colloidal sulfur or means - Topsin-M, Skor.

Rust

Rust is a rare fungal infection.. It manifests itself in the form of spots from the inside of the leaves, which acquire a reddish tint. This happens in the process of sporulation of fungi, which themselves are red in color, hence the name of the disease.

To save the plant you need:

With a sharp knife, cut off all the affected leaves of the plant.
Treat the cut sites with a 25% alcohol solution.
Spray the plant with one of the solutions of such agents - Ritomil, Skor, Mikosan.

sooty mushrooms

Such damage interferes with the normal photosynthesis of the plant, it slowly fades and dies completely.

To save an orchid you need:

Carry out the treatment with the biopreparation Mykosan.
Repot the plant if necessary.
Spray the orchid with solutions of funds - Skor, Ridomil, Topsin-M.

Prevention

To prevent the foliage of the plant from getting sick, it is worth taking preventive measures.:

If all comfortable conditions are created for the normal growth and development of the plant, then the development of any diseases is minimized, but it is still worth periodically taking preventive measures so that the orchid does not have to be treated for a long and painful time.

Leaves for an orchid are important components of its life. They, together with the root system, take part in photosynthesis, absorb light. It is through the leaves that the flower “breathes”: at the bottom of each leaf plate, microscopic pores are concentrated that absorb oxygen and moisture. In addition, the leaves signal that the flower is sick and needs additional nutrients.

How to understand that problems have begun?

A healthy leaf plate has a saturated green color and dense structure. You can notice certain problems if you carefully consider the phalaenopsis.

You need to start treatment immediately if the leaves:

Once a year, the orchid sheds foliage, but not all, but only 2-3. At the same time, the plant itself is absolutely healthy and can bloom. This is normal, as the already obsolete parts of the orchid dry out, and after a while new ones appear in their place.

What ailments can affect the leaves and how do they look in the photo?

Most often, phalaenopsis orchid leaves affect non-infectious diseases that occur against the background of improper care.

Only after a thorough examination of the flower, you can understand the cause of the pathological process:

yellow foliage underneath- lack of moisture or errors in keeping in winter.
Yellow spots or white dots- rot, pests or powdery mildew.
wilted foliage- aphids, mites, bacterial spotting.
sticky spotting- aphids, bacterial spot and powdery mildew.
black spot- rot, spider mites or improper watering in autumn and winter.
Soft and wrinkled leaves- Pests, bacterial spot and Fusarium rot.
leaf rot- Fusarium rot, which arose against the background of improper watering.
red leaves- pests, rot due to improper moisture in the cold season.
twisting- pests and rot.
Edges turn black- bacterial spotting.
Mold- pests.
Silver plaque- gray rot, powdery mildew and pests.
white bugs- pests that occur against the background of frequent watering or high humidity.

What causes problems and how to determine the source?

Most often, problems with phalaenopsis arise as a result of improper care. To understand what a flower lacks or what it has in excess, you need to know the optimal conditions for keeping the plant.

The main causes of damage to the leaves can be identified:

Step-by-step treatment instructions: what to do to restore tissue turgor?

Consider how exactly to return turgor to plant tissues, improve leaf blades and save the flower.

If a continuous plaque and bubbles have formed

Bubbles and a solid white loose coating are a signal of improper care. In most cases, phalaenopsis reacts this way to a decrease in temperature or an excess of moisture. Solid plaque and stickiness on the leaf plate indicates a lesion with a scab. This pest infects the underside of the leaf.

You can save the plant if you take the following actions:

Treat the affected leaf plate with a swab to eliminate pests.
Wash the flower with soapy water.
When the purification is carried out, then increase the humidity in the room.

In addition to the scale insects, spider mites can infect phalaenopsis.

To fight it you need:

Remove all insects from the surface of the leaf plate.
Thoroughly wipe the window sill and rinse the pot.
Spray the plant with Fitoverm.
Increase the humidity in the room for the entire period of rehabilitation.

Got sticky

Began to turn yellow and wither

A similar process occurs when there is not enough moisture. In addition, it is recommended to check for drafts near the phalaenopsis. It is from them that the roots and leaves are frostbitten, and the flower dies. It is much worse if rot occurs. In this case, the trunk will darken, and the leaves will wither and turn yellow. You can save a flower if:

Remove it from the ground and inspect the root system.
Remove from it all the roots that have dark points or do not absorb moisture when immersed in water.
Remove affected leaves.
Treat all cuts with activated charcoal.
Place the plant in a greenhouse for quarantine.

Spots formed

Brown or yellow, white or black spots appear on the orchid due to improper care or due to disease. Spotting on the leaf plate and anthracnose are fungal diseases. Their symptoms are presented in the form of numerous local damage to the dark-colored leaf plate. They are more like dents. Anthracnose affects phalaenopsis due to high humidity. The next reason for the development of pathology is the stagnation of water in the bowls of young leaves and the growth point.

If the plant was severely affected, then it must be eliminated. If there are not so many affected areas, then cut them off, and treat the cuts with ash. The soil in the pot must be changed, and the container itself sterilized. During the entire rehabilitation period, the plant will have to be quarantined.

What is contraindicated to do?

For the treatment of phalaenopsis, it is not recommended to process plant with alcohol, kerosene and other flammable liquids that will cause the flower great harm. Phalaenopsis often get sick due to inadequate care for them. We have analyzed why the leaves turn red and fall, why plaque and bubbles form on them, and what to do in each individual case. There is no need to give up and get upset, as a timely detected pathology can be cured, and the plant will recover after a while and will give others its beauty.