Members of the forum have different attitudes towards whitewashing trees: some argue that this work needs to be done in autumn, others in spring, and still others believe that this is a harmful event that prevents trees from breathing. Which one is right?
It was once a traditionally April subbotnik event. Perhaps that is why for some summer residents garden work begins with these works: ornate trees seem to proclaim the end of winter. However, there is another opinion, according to which the solution prevents plants from developing naturally after winter awakening, and therefore spring whitewashing is done more for beauty than for benefit.
And yet ... One should not forget that the treatment of the bark with special solutions is carried out not only to protect plants from sunburn, as supporters of the autumn whitewashing of trees claim. The solution protects the bark of trees from a number of external stressors: sun, frost and waking garden pests... Therefore, whitewashing can be carried out twice a year for preventive or therapeutic purposes.
In the latter case, the composition of the solution is slightly changed by adding components to it for treating wounds and cracks that have appeared on tree bark... So that whitewashing is not a useless event, you need not just "transform" garden trees, but do it according to the rules.
How to whiten?
It is important to determine the timing of such work. Usually they are performed in February-March, less often in April, while the ground has not yet had time to warm up enough to wake up the bark beetles: unprotected plants will become a good haven for them at the beginning of the new season.
The whitewashing process can be divided into three stages. First, they carefully examine the tree trunk, clean it of old bark (only adult trees!), Moss and lichens with a special scraper or wire brush. If cracks are found on the tree, they are treated with garden varnish or putty.
It is better to clean the trunk after heavy rains: soggy bark flakes off more easily than dry.
The second stage is the preparation of a solution for whitewashing. Slaked lime is traditionally used (they cover the trunk twice), although now there are many ready-made formulations chalk-based with added copper sulfate and fixing adhesive.
And finally, the last stage is the whitewash itself, for which a brush or spray guns are used. They process the tree trunk, skeletal branches and forks; sometimes gardeners also paint over some types of shrubs.
How to whiten?
You can make a simple whitewash solution yourself. To do this, you need 2.5 kg of lime and half a liter of copper sulfate. Dilute the components in a bucket of water, and then add 200 g of woodwork, silicate glue, PVA or laundry soap. The composition should not be too liquid, but not overly thick.
The usual whitewash has a significant drawback - it is quickly washed off by rains. Forum users suggest trying other options:
- water-dispersible acrylic paint for garden trees - spread with a brush without adding water; the composition is also washed off, but less than the usual whitewash;
- whitewashing with the addition of clay (2: 1) - has medicinal properties and poorly transmits heat, as a result of which the tree better tolerates sudden changes in temperature;
- a solution of freshly slaked lime prepared on skim milk (it holds better).
What not to do:
- to whitewash young trees with smooth bark - pores are clogged, gas exchange slows down, as a result of which the plant grows poorly, and the trunk slowly thickens;
- whitewash at sub-zero temperatures and in rainy weather; whitening in the rain is a waste of time;
- no need to whitewash the whole trees - the plant stops breathing. In addition, together with the pests, the solution kills the larvae ladybug - garden defenders from aphids;
- it is possible not to process trees in spring if the autumn whitewash is well preserved.
Based on materials from the participants of the forum "House and Dacha"
In the recent past, whitewashing trees was considered a traditional activity carried out on spring clean-ups. Based on this, most gardeners and summer residents start their work with this. But also along with the prevailing opinion, there are other points of view that suggest the opposite: whitewashing can block the normal growth of a certain plant after a long winter period. Other people believe that whitewashing trees is needed only in order to embellish them, and not get the proper benefit from it. Spring is coming, which means it's time to clean up your yard and start whitewashing the trees. Today the publication of the site will inform all its readers about what the whitewashing of trees in spring is. We will tell you how to do this work and what the composition of this whitewash is.
Why do you need to whitewash trees
Whitewashing of trees should be carried out so that ultraviolet, low temperaturesand insect pests could not harm the trees. Therefore, it is quite possible to carry out whitewashing for preventive purposes. Moreover, such work is recommended to be carried out twice a year.
When to whitewash trees
In this post, we'll talk about how to whitewash trees in spring. However, before talking about the process itself, it is worth talking about when it is best to produce such work.
So, fruit trees like cherries and apple trees need help to move cold winter by whitewashing their trunks in autumn period... This work should be done after all the leaves have fallen from the tree crowns, but before the onset of cold weather (approximately at the end of October or with the onset of November). It is advisable to perform this procedure in sunny weather, so that the whitewash dries faster and does not wash off.
Due to the fact that most of the whitewash compositions are very quickly washed off the trees, it is necessary to whitewash them with the onset of spring, approximately in mid-March or in April. This work will help protect the tree bark from exposure to bright sunlight and against insect pests.
Barrel cleaning
In most cases, very old trees have an uneven bark structure with all kinds of cracks and outgrowths. In addition, some trees in some places may have bark covered with moss. As a rule, it is quite difficult to whitewash such a trunk, and the composition applied to it will wash off very quickly. Based on this, first of all, the tree trunk must be cleaned.
For this purpose, you can use a specialist store scraper or cloth gloves. Thanks to this, the cleaning of the bark will take place neatly and will not harm it. Cleaning with a scraper is quite convenient and easy, but this procedure must be carried out very carefully so as not to accidentally damage the healthy layer of the bark. In the process of work, various growths, moss and dead layer should be removed from the bark. It will soon overgrow with new, healthy bark. After cleaning is complete, remove and incinerate the resulting debris.
Disinfection and treatment of injuries
Most types of whitewashing cannot cope with the destruction of insects that damage trees as much as possible. To prevent this trouble from happening, you should treat the bark with a special disinfectant. For example, process with a composition of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. It is necessary to apply these compositions in such a way that the tree trunk is completely treated with the composition, but drops do not form or flow down. For accuracy in performing this work, you need to use a spray bottle.
Should not be constantly used chemical solutions, since they contain very toxic substances that can accumulate in the bark of a tree, thereby causing it great harm... The most excellent and harmless means in protecting the tree is ordinary ash, with which you can cook without any problems required composition, which will not only protect the bark, but will serve as a plant nutrition.
It is necessary to prepare this composition in this way:
3 kg of ash is thoroughly mixed in 10 liters of water with the addition of a small bar of soap. The bark should be processed in warm sunny weather. All cracks and various wounds on the surface of the bark must be treated with a composition that will protect it as much as possible and increase the rate of healing. For this, the most optimal means is considered to be a garden var. Gardeners who have extensive experience in this field make this substance themselves.
There are a large number of these formulations. One of the easiest options is to prepare a mortar from clay, straw and mullein.
Whitewashing wood processing methods
With the help of a spray gun, whitewashing of trees is quite simple and quick. This procedure helps to perfectly paint over all existing irregularities and cracks. But in this case, the maximum paint consumption will occur, and necessary tool not all possess. Based on this, most people use regular brushes of the right size for work. IN spring time, the processing of trees is carried out from the bottom of the trunk to the first branches. Most often, the trunk is processed in height by only 1 meter. But frosty weather and insects can harm the plant, so you should also protect it. upper part... To do this, it is necessary to whitewash the trees higher than it should be, and try to paint the base of the lower branches.
What are the best tools to choose for whitewashing
There are a lot of tools for whitewashing trees, but they also serve, as a rule, for different purposes. If trees are treated in the spring using ordinary lime, then this work will not be effective, since the applied composition will be washed off the bark at the first rain. But if you add clay or manure to the lime, then the resulting product will be perfectly retained on the trunk of the plant. In order to provide the tree with maximum protection against external factors, vitriol should be added to the whitewash.
When processing trees, their age is of great importance. Long-lived plants are generally able to withstand any additives. And whitewashing of young trees must be done with great care, using only lime and chalk. Also, only natural substances and additives should be present in the composition of such whitewashing, since the bark of the seedlings is very delicate and sensitive.
In no case should you use additives that contain glue. It will clog the skin of young plants, as a result of which the tree will not be able to breathe normally and develop. If you do not have free time to find all the necessary components for whitewashing and make it, you can easily purchase it in a specialized store. ready mix... It will contain all the necessary additives and substances that contribute to the normal growth and protection of trees from external factors. You buy whitewash either dry or ready-made (diluted).
Consider the options for whitewashing intended for processing fruit plants in the spring time
It is necessary to prepare the following composition: mix vitriol, lime, clay and glue. The advantage of this solution is that it is environmentally friendly, has excellent viscous properties that help to adhere perfectly to the bark of the tree, and long time do not wash off its surface.
The next composition is more suitable for whitewashing trees - long-livers.
It is necessary to prepare such a solution:
- It is important to stir 50 grams of wallpaper glue in plain water (about half a bucket).
- After its complete dissolution, 2.5 kg of lime, previously slaked, and 450 grams of vitriol (it is diluted in boiling water) should be added to the solution.
- You must also add 1 kg of manure and clay to the resulting mixture.
- In the event that you did not have wallpaper glue at hand, it is quite possible to prepare a mixture from carpentry.
- At the end of this work, the mixture must be thoroughly mixed. The mixture should be homogeneous in composition and resemble sour cream.
Composition made from clay, copper sulfate and lime
This solution has been used for quite a long number of years, but it is still considered by gardeners and summer residents the most popular means for whitewashing trees. Let's now find out how to prepare this composition:
- First, you should extinguish 3 kg of lime in water. This must be done as follows: A bucket (5 l) is filled with water and lime is carefully introduced into it. After the lime is poured into the bucket, you need to close it tightly with something and leave it for 20-30 minutes.
- After the reaction in the bucket is completely over, we add vitriol (350 grams), previously diluted in boiling water, into it.
- To obtain a viscous solution, add 2.5 kg of clay to the composition and stir everything well.
- Trees should be treated with this solution in two layers.
Not just a fashion statement. This is part of an important agricultural technique - caring. But it will be useful only if the barrel is properly prepared. The whole process includes 4 consecutive stages: cleaning the trunk, disinfecting the bark, repairing wounds and whitewashing itself.
Stage I: barrel cleaning
On many adults, especially on old trunks and bases of the lower skeletal branches, and have settled. The bark is cracked and flaking. All this needs to be cleaned off. Experienced gardeners have special devices, but you can do with improvised means.The best ways to cleanse - gentle: hands in fabric gloves or a homemade "washcloth" made of plastic twine, rolled in several layers.
Cleaning is carried out in wet weather. Cracks and grooves are treated with a wooden knife or even a sharpened chip so as not to injure the trunk. Proponents of this approach are strongly against metal brushes, scrapers and washcloths. And even more so against cleaning with a hoe or cloth, which can severely injure a tree. Other gardeners have been using them for years and consider it the norm. It is up to you to choose, the main thing is to observe the principle “Do no harm”.
In any case, before cleaning the trunk, you need to spread an oilcloth under the tree or thick fabric... Peeled moss, lichens, pieces of bark and the contents of cracks, where pests have found a winter refuge, fall on it. All this will have to be carried away from the trees and burned.
And here is a practical video tutorial on the care of boles fruit trees:
Stage II: disinfection
After cleaning the trunk be sure to disinfect the entire cleaned surface, as well as those places where there are wounds and cracks. What is it for?- First, to destroy pests and pathogens that have already entered the nooks and crannies.
- Secondly, to disinfect new injuries that you could accidentally inflict on the tree while cleaning the trunks. After all, any wound is a "wide gate" for infection.
How to disinfect
There are several folk and chemical methodswho successfully apply experienced gardeners... Let's consider the most common and inexpensive ones.Ash (ash-soap) infusion
2.5-3 kg sifted dilute in 10 liters hot water and add 50-60 g of laundry soap for sticking. Wash the trunk and branches when the liquid is still warm (it is good if its temperature is higher than + 40 ° C).
Ash lye
Thoroughly mix 2.5-3 kg of sieved ash in 10 liters of water, bring to a boil and leave to cool. All liquid above the sediment is ash liquor. For spraying trunks and branches, it is bred in a 1: 1 or 1: 2 ratio.
Copper preparations
- 3-5% solution (dilute 300-500 g of copper sulfate in 10 liters of water);
- Bordeaux mixture (how to make it, read the article);
- Hom (fungicide of systemic-local and contact action) in a concentration of 30-40 g per 10 liters of water;
- Oxyhom (broad-spectrum systemic contact fungicide) at a concentration of 20 g per 10 liters of water.
can be used at a concentration of 3-5% or 6-8%. To do this, you need to dilute 300-500 g of ferrous sulfate (or 600-800 g, respectively) in 10 liters of water
Attention! Though chemicals effective, it is still not worth using them annually. Both copper and iron do not disappear anywhere. They safely accumulate in the bark and in, where they are washed out by sediments, and in the end, having reached the "required concentration", they become poison both for the tree and for us.
Stage III: treatment (covering) wounds
After cleaning the trunk, all the wounds of the tree are "in full view". Each of them is a magnet for all kinds of infections, so you need it treat with a special ointment for reliable protection .How to close the wounds
Gardeners use many different compositions of "putties": clay talker, pastes and biomask. You can buy them at specialized stores. For those who prefer to do everything with their own hands, we have prepared.It is used to heal and protect tree wounds from drying out, precipitation and infection.
Ready-made pastes and biomasks
These are special modern putties for protecting tree trunks from adverse weather conditions and pests.
- Garden paste "Rannet"
- Garden putty "BlagoSad"
The following video is an application guide silver biomask Robin green for wound treatment, prevention and protection of wood
Stage IV: actual whitewashing
Cleaning, disinfecting and covering the wounds behind. Remained a "cosmetic" part of wood care - whitewash. It is important to answer 3 questions here:- What compositions to whiten?
- What tools?
- How high?
Types of whitewash mixtures
Trees are whitewashed with lime mortar or water-dispersion paint.Lime mortars
Any whitewash composition should have 3 main components:
- Lime or chalk for whiteness;
- Clay, soap, glue, etc. for sticking;
- Copper sulfate, etc. for disinfection.
Lime solutions for whitewashing trees have been used by gardeners since time immemorial. The protective qualities of such compounds are low. In addition, they are quickly washed off by rains. But thanks to its simplicity and affordable price this option is still one of the most popular. “They don't look for good from good,” the aksakals grumble, looking incredulously at the purchased paints and biomasks)
Water-based and water-dispersion paints
Among young summer residents, unlike fathers and grandfathers, ready-made coating compositions are much more popular.
These include water-based garden paint (not to be confused with painting! the desired one has a mark "for garden trees"). As the manufacturer promises, the water emulsion is durable and absolutely safe for wood. It forms a vapor-permeable "breathable" coating on the wood, resistant to direct sunlight and water.
Popular and Water-dispersive garden paint for trees". It contains latex, pigment, antiseptic and modifying additives. Holds well: on young trees for a year, and on adults - up to 2 years.
Paints on water based it is necessary to whitewash only at positive air temperature (preferably not lower than + 7 ° С, the minimum permissible is + 3 ° С). Drying time for such paint is about 1 hour "tack" and a day until it dries completely. The layer is thinner than when whitewashing with lime mortars, but it lasts much longer.
How to whiten
For whitewashing large trees, we have long used special washcloth brushes... But in last years summer residents are increasingly using either artificial brushes of the same shape, or painting flywheels or maklovits. It is convenient to work with such brushes, they quickly and equally well whiten both smooth and rough surfaces of trunks.And it is convenient to whitewash young trees with a flat flute brush. A little longer than round, but the consumption of whitewash is less.
By the way, our gardeners are great inventors and innovators. They came up with the idea to whitewash old large trees with bumpy bark connected by 3-4 flat brushes - both convenient and perfect.
Some summer residents like to whitewash paint rollers ... And what is very convenient, long-haired fur coats do an excellent job with uneven surfaces, and the speed increases.
If there are a lot of trees in the garden and they are adults, you can't use a brush or a roller here. In this case, the most effective method - whitewashing with a spray gun - spray... And best of all - in two layers.
Regardless of the instruments chosen, you need to whitewash trees only in dry weather... Then the whitewash will dry well and become resistant to precipitation.
Whitewash height
How high to whitewash the trees in the garden is by no means an idle question. The most common "urban" way - to the same height of 1-1.2 m - is purely for beauty. There is little benefit from such whitewashing: they are illiterate and have not read about height restrictions.Whitewashing the tree is considered to be conditionally sufficient according to the formula: the whole stem + 1/3 of the length of the lower skeletal branches.For adult trees (again, averagely effective), the whitewashing height is 1.5-1.8 m, and experienced gardeners generally try to whitewash their pets as high as possible - up to 2 m or more.
And if your trees are still sad and unkempt, we hope this material will convince you on a sunny fine day to get out of the city with a supply of brushes, garden pitch and a bucket of lime. To the delight of the garden, which will surely repay you with the same coin - cool greens in hot summer days, handsome and rich. Well, are we going?
Preparing for winter, whitewashing trees, how to whitewash trees, preparing trees for winter, autumn works in the garden
Winter is fast approaching and it's time to start thinking about protecting the trees in your garden. One of the most important components of such protection is undoubtedly the whitewashing of trees, it helps the tree to grow and form correctly, and also protects it from the effects of external negative factors. Exactly whitewashing trees in spring and autumn will be the topic of our article. And so the first question that arises when whitewashing trees is, of course,
Trees are whitewashed in October - November. To do this, you need to choose a suitable weather, it should not be sunny and dry. Renewing the whitewash at the end of February and beginning of March. Trees are whitewashed for a minimum temperature above zero (+ 4 ... + 6 ° С).
The second question that often arises when whitewashing trees is
until where to whitewash the trees?
Trees are whitened to a height that they can reach at least 1.5-1.7 meters. Since whitewashing is intended to exterminate insects living under the bark of a tree and to protect against sunburn, whitewashing is carried out with an aggressive mixture, therefore it is recommended to prepare the tree for whitewashing before whitewashing. Young trees are not whitened high, before the branches.
How to whiten trees faster?
To do this, you will need several flat brushes, they are tied into one large brush, so you kill two birds with one stone, whiten faster and better, since the absorption of the solution will be better. Do not spare it (solution). Do not worry if the trees look pale after whitewashing, the bright white color will appear only after a couple of hours.
How to whiten trees?
Often most people use acrylic paint , because it is the most persistent, it is not washed off by rain, so it will retain its protective functions until the onset of spring. More cheap option it is clay and lime mortars, but they are not so persistent and you will have to re-bleach the trees at the end of winter, although this solution is better for young trees, since they are able to breathe freely under it. Sometimes a mixture of ingredients such as lime or chalk with PVA, milk, clay is sometimes used for whitewashing and laundry soap manure or copper sulfate is added there for disinfection.
Solutions for whitewashing trees
1000g of manure, 1000g of lime, 200g of copper sulphate and pour 8 liters of water all this. Stir and let it brew for two to three hours.
1000g of oily clay, 2000g of slaked lime, 1 shovel of cow dung, 250g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water. Stir and insist for two, three hours
2000 g of slaked lime, 400 g of copper sulfate (dissolve in hot water), 60-110 g of casein glue per 10 liters of water. A very durable substance.
Important aspects in whitewashing trees.
As you know, when you want to achieve good results, in anything, it is important not to miss small parts, we will talk about such details now.
The consistency of the mixture, there should be a golden mean, not very thick, as it will be lumps, but it should not drain from the tree.
The color must be necessarily white, because only it guarantees the reflection of the sun's rays.
There must be glue in the mixture so that the rain does not wash away your whitewash.
Concentration for young trees should be less than for adults.
In the event that the whitewash peels off the bark, you need to whitewash again.
How to prepare trees for autumn whitewashing
In order for the whitewashing of trees to give the proper result, you must first prepare the tree for it. As we wrote at the beginning of the article, trees are whitewashed in dry weather, but they are prepared in wet weather. Preparation consists in cleaning the bark, you need to scrape off dead bark, lichens and other growths. All this should ideally be done manually. We scrape all this on cellophane film, which will first need to be laid out under the tree. After which you need to burn everything that has been scraped, it is better to do this away from your site. The next step in preparing trees for whitewashing is disinfection, they do it in dry weather.
It is best to use an ash and soap solution for disinfection.
: for 1 liter of hot water, 5 g of laundry soap and 200-300 g of ash. We wet a rag in this solution and dip the trees. The ash will both disinfect and fertilize.
In the fall, tree preparation is very important and how you prepare them for wintering will directly affect your harvests in summer and autumn, so be especially careful about this process!
Whitewashing trees in spring and autumn video
A personal plot will only look attractive if you take care of it according to all the rules, one of which is whitewashing tree trunks. Our article will tell you about when and how exactly this is done.
Why whitewash trees
Correct and timely whitewashing gives the following effect:
- scares away insects that have awakened with the arrival of spring, which can harm the bark;
- prevents damage to the bark by pests that hibernate in the wood;
- protects the bark from the harmful effects of the scorching sun;
- prevents icing and freezing of the surface of the wood;
- does not allow various infectious diseasesdangerous for plants;
- protects the bark of a tree from sudden changes in temperature during the cold season;
- somewhat suspends the process of budding, which will save them from unexpected spring frosts;
- prevents animals from chewing on the bark in winter.
Features of whitewashing fruit trees
There is nothing complicated in the whitewashing procedure, however, it is still worth familiarizing yourself with its main points in advance, so that the efforts and time spent on the event are not wasted.
Time to whitewash
Trees are whitewashed 2 times a year. In autumn, experts recommend carrying out the procedure in November, and for whitewashing trees in spring, March is considered the most suitable month. However, these tips are not ultimatum, because sometimes even the most experienced forecasters cannot predict the nuances of the weather. Therefore, when deciding when exactly to carry out the whitewashing procedure, be guided by the following tips:
- in the spring, take care of the garden when a stable above-zero temperature is established, but not after the first foxes have already appeared on the trees;
- in autumn, trees can be whitewashed on the eve of frosts.
With frequent thaws in winter, it is advisable to adjust the whitewash. If the applied protective layer is not too badly damaged, it can only be renewed from the south side.
Preparatory stage
The step-by-step preparation of trees for whitewashing looks like this:
- Peel the bark. In wet wet weather, carefully and carefully remove the damaged and "dead" bark, moss, mushrooms and lichens from the surface of the trunk and the base of the skeletal branches with your hands. Keep in mind that metal and plastic spatulas or files are not suitable as an auxiliary tool - they will hurt the bark even more. Hard to reach places and cracks can be cleaned with wood chips or a sharpened wooden peg. All the peeled bark is burned.
- Treat the bark with a disinfectant. To do this, pour the solution into a container with a spray bottle or leave it in a bucket and arm yourself with a homemade herbal whisk. Try to apply the protectant in a thin layer - it shouldn't run down the tree trunk. If you decide to use a spray gun, set the spray gun in such a position that the spraying is finely dispersed - the smallest droplets of the protective solution will settle on the surface of the bark in a uniform and dense layer.
Which disinfection solution to choose
You can buy a disinfectant at a store or make your own. If you like the first option, look for breeding mixes such as "Hom", "Abiga-peak", "Oxy-Hom" on sale. Start preparing the solution only after carefully reading the instructions, proportions and manufacturer's recommendations.
For those who rely solely on own strength, we will offer several options for disinfectants that you can mix yourself.
- Dissolve 300 g of copper sulfate in powder in 10 liters of water. Ensure copper is completely dissolved before direct application.
- Keep 10 liters of water on fire until hot, but do not bring the water to a boil. Then completely dissolve the laundry soap there (a piece of 50 g), then sift the ash into the water (2.5 - 3 kg). Mix the solution thoroughly. Ash is an excellent antiseptic and top dressing, and thanks to the soap, the solution will firmly lie on the surface of the bark. The already cooled mixture is applied to the trunk and branches.
- Dissolve ferrous sulfate (600 g) in water (10 l).
To keep the trees feeling good and bearing healthy tasty fruits, disinfection solutions are changed annually. If you constantly use the same protective agent, copper, iron and other components will accumulate in the bark of the tree over time. ready solution, which will certainly affect the state of the tree, and not in the best way.
Cover the wounds on the tree trunk. If in the thickness of the wood and on the surface of the bark you notice areas destroyed by something or damaged by insects, give the tree first aid by applying a wound-healing agent to the affected area. The most popular are the following solutions:
- "RanNet" is a ready-made product, it is on sale;
- a paste containing rosin, beeswax and unsalted fat in equal proportions. This is a self-preparation tool;
- a thick, dense mixture, kneaded with your own hands on oily clay, cow dung and straw. The so-called clay talker is considered a traditional "medicine" for vulnerable areas in the bark. The most suitable consistency for application is the one that resembles cream. Chopped straw added to the mash will keep the dry clay layer from cracking.
The choice of whitewash and its preparation
There are several types of solutions used to bleach trees. One or another tool for whitewashing is chosen, taking into account the type and age of trees on the site. Here are several recipes with the necessary components for preparing a solution:
1. Recipe number 1:
- manure - 1 kg;
- lime - 1 kg;
- copper sulfate - 0.2 kg;
- water - 8 liters.
2. Recipe number 2:
- oily clay - 1 kg;
- slaked lime - 2 kg;
- cow dung - 1 shovel;
- copper sulfate - 0.25 kg;
- water - 10 liters.
3. Recipe number 3:
- slaked lime - 2 kg;
- copper sulfate - 0.4 kg;
- casein glue - 0.1 kg;
- water - 10 liters.
Whitewashing trees with lime presupposes strict adherence to the proportions of the components to be mixed. Young trees are whitened with gentle portions of diluted solutions with lime: annual seedlings are still too vulnerable and can get severe burns from exposure to concentrated whitewash.
All of the above recipes are good for fruit trees. The barren garden can be whitewashed acrylic paint white: the coating is very durable, so there is no need to re-whitewash after six months.
How to prepare a whitewash solution
- Prepare all ingredients in the amount indicated in the recipe. In order not to violate the proportion, all components are collected in one measuring container.
- Place all the ingredients in one container (in a bucket, for example) and mix thoroughly.Assess the quality of the prepared protective solution, paying attention to its characteristics. The mass of the whitewash product should have a medium consistency: easy to pour, but at the same time not very liquid. It's good if there are no lumps in it.
- Before applying, the whitewash solution is insisted for 2 - 3 hours.
How to whitewash trees
To carry out the procedure efficiently, follow simple rules:
- Apply the solution to the bark with a soft, wide brush that will easily reach the most difficult to reach areas.
- Determine the height of the whitewash, guided by the height of each tree. On average, the height of application of the solution is from 1.5 to 1.7 m. It is desirable that the lower skeletal branches of the tree also be covered with a protective agent.
- The ideal thickness of the whitewash layer does not exceed 2 - 3 mm. A denser layer of whitewash, when dry, will crack and sprinkle.
- When covering the tree trunk with a protective agent, be sure to sink a few centimeters into the ground. To do this, scoop up the soil around the trunk, and after the applied solution has dried, return it to its place.
- If the applied coating becomes gray, a brush with a protective solution can be walked over the trees again so that the coating becomes pure white.
As you can see, whitewashing trees is an easy, but rather laborious job. However, the desire to clean up your garden and get a bountiful harvest is a great incentive for everyone to spend necessary work timely and efficiently.
Whitewashing trees. Video