A hunter needs a gun and a knife. If there are no questions regarding the application of the first, then regarding the second there are different opinions... Some believe that a knife is necessary to finish off and butcher a wounded animal, as well as to protect against an attack by an animal.
Others use this item, first of all, to chop branches, cut bread, open cans of canned food and perform various chores, and butchering game is already on the occasion. Thus, it turns out that there is no universal blade. Hunting can be created by any man.
What is the product
A hunting knife is a short blade edged weapon. The blade and the hilt are its main elements. To protect the hunter's palm from damage at the moment of striking, the product has a duck, that is, a limiter. Homemade hunting knives look very stylish. The photos below clearly demonstrate this.
In order to make a weapon, you need to decide, first of all, with the shape of the blade and handle, choose necessary materials, and also establish a list of tools and equipment that will be required to perform specific operations. Making hunting knives is not available to everyone.
Features of creating a blade
For this item, the ability to cut is more important than stabbing. For this purpose, the blade is made curved and bent upward. The bend in the cutting edge must be large enough to allow long cuts to be made in one stroke. This greatly facilitates the process of cutting the prey. The shape of the blade of a hunting knife is of great importance.
Such edged weapons have a shank for the handle made of a single metal blank. The sharp edge of the edge of the blade is called the blade. This is the cutting part of the knife. The opposite edge is always made blunt, it is often called a butt.
Stiffness and length of the knife
To give the blade rigidity, special grooves are made in the metal part of the product. Such depressions are called valleys. They also reduce the weight of the item. The widespread belief that the valleys are intended to drain blood is deeply mistaken.
The length of the blade is in the range from 12 to 15 cm, the width is from 2.5 to 3 cm. Hunter knives it is better to do it with your own hands according to the drawings. But some hunters prefer to carry two types of edged weapons. One blade is used for cutting prey, and the other for household needs. Not everyone knows how to make a hunting knife.
The choice of materials for manufacturing
The metal for the blade must be strong and not subject to corrosion. Tool steel has proven itself very well. Pendulum saw blades are made from it, and it is not so difficult to get it. Of carbon steels, it is worth noting the brand It has the necessary hardness, keeps sharpening well, has high corrosion resistance. How to make a hunting knife to make it work long time, we will describe below.
Even the most advanced blade can become ineffective and useless without a reliable and comfortable grip. It is she who ensures the correct possession of such a weapon. Will the knife blade move in the right direction or go to the side, hands get tired or not - all this largely depends on this particular detail. The handle of a hunting knife should lie correctly and comfortably in the hand, but its beautiful finish is a secondary matter.
Attaching the handle
The handle can be simply pushed onto the shank or attached to it with rivets. The first option looks more attractive. The shank of the knife is made in the form of a narrow rod. Part of it may extend beyond the handle. A thread is cut on the protruding part, with the help of a nut, the handle is attached to the shank, pressing it against the limiter. With this method of fastening, the base can be made from a set of separate rings. The lock nut is often referred to as a knob and is usually given an attractive appearance. The handle is simply pushed onto the short shank and glued.
The riveted part is done differently. The shank of the knife is made in the form of a handle, that is, it is flat and wide. Holes are drilled in it. The linings on both sides are symmetrically applied to the shank, the rivets are inserted into the holes. The mount is very strong.
Handle: material
The material for the manufacture of the handle should be durable, comfortable to the touch, not cold your hand, not soaked in blood and not freeze to your fingers from the cold. The main requirements are also light weight, ease of processing and affordability. Getting exotic materials for a hunting knife is probably not advisable.
The best raw material for the handle is wood. Blanks are made from dense varieties. Maple, ash and apple are very nice details. Coniferous trees do not apply. The so-called burls are taken from the birch, that is, the growths on the trunk. A hole is made in the workpiece for the nozzle on the shank. If it is planned that it will go beyond the handle, then the hole is made through. Its diameter should allow the shank to enter the inside of the handle without splitting it.
The advantage of birch bark
Birch bark is considered the ideal material for the handle. To make the product softer, the raw materials are heat treated in hot water within 2 hours. It can be said that it is simply boiled in a large pot of water, then dried thoroughly. The finished birch bark sheet is cut into small plates rectangular... The size of the parts should be slightly more sizes future handle. Further, the plates are put on one by one on the knife shank.
Holes in the rectangles must be made just in front of their nozzle, since the lateral dimensions of the shank do not remain constant. The assembled birch bark is compressed with a nut, which is screwed along the thread at the end of the shank. If necessary, the plates are added until all the birch bark is compressed into a single dense briquette, and several threads remain under the nut. Through sharp knife and the file of the handle is given the desired shape. In the final version, the handle is sanded with fine sandpaper. No paints or varnishes are needed. It's always nice to make a hunting knife with your own hands. Drawings will help determine the shape and size.
The limiter does not allow the hand to move onto the blade. It is attached in front of the handle. The limiter is installed only single. The cross is used in However, many hunters prefer not to install a special limiter at all, and protect their hand thanks to the protrusions on the handle. With such knives it is more convenient to remove the skin from the animal and butcher it.
Basic operations for making knives
The manufacturing process includes several stages. Consider how do-it-yourself hunting knives are made (photos will allow you to evaluate the complexity of the process).
The knife is ready. It remains only to place it in a reliable sheath. Making hunting knives can be a good business.
Knives are currently popular not only in the kitchen, but also among people who have linked their lives with extreme types of active leisure - these are: fishing, hunting, tourism, etc.
There are various knives on the market in modern times: variable models, different sizes and designs. But none of them can replace a knife that is made by hand.
How to make a knife with your own hands is often written on the Internet, and to make them you should try.
Knives: types and main properties
In the photographs of the knife on the Internet, you can see that each product is a creative element created from different mechanisms.
There is a large classification of knives, depending on their functionality: combat, tourist, folding (for example, butterfly), knives for hunting, multitools, bivvy knives, as well as ordinary kitchen knives.
Kitchen knives are bought ready-made, but knives designed for hunting or for tourism can be easily made at home on your own.
There are also such knives as knives for survival, the main task of which is to help with existence in conditions wildlife... This option is relevant for tourists and hunters.
The blade of such a knife is usually no more than 12 cm. This length is sufficient for cutting wood, processing game, cleaning fish or other similar actions. Small dimensions make it easy to transport such a knife.
When making such a knife, great attention should be paid to the material intended to create the blade. Steel is often preferred.
Steps for creating a knife
To obtain positive result during the manufacture of a knife, you should first make an outline of the drawing of the knife. In this case, you can know in advance what exactly you want to achieve at the end.
Instructions on how to make a knife at home include a number of rules.
Making a knife step by step
Cut out the blank for the future knife. Relying on the finished drawing, cut out the shape for the knife.
You will need a knife sharpener. With its help, the base is brought to the required form. And after that, you will have in your hands an already understandable workpiece, where you can distinguish between the places of the handle and the blade.
Rough sharpening of knives. At this stage, you clearly need to know what your future knife is intended for. If it is made for hunting, fishing or hiking trips, it is better to give preference to the blade type of sharpening.
And, if the knife is created for functioning in the kitchen or in the garden, then the razor type is suitable.
Do not expect perfect sharpening from this stage, as this is just a rough cut to determine the future shape.
If the blade is pre-prepared, then you can start working with the handle. To create the handle, the most various materials- these are: wood, organic glass, bones, thick types of leather, etc.
Note!
Having cut out the blank to create the handle, you should check whether it fits comfortably in the hand, as well as its proportionality relative to the blade. The knife handle is fixed using a riveting method.
The foot handle is shaped using a grinder.
The knife is ground and polished using sandpaper.
The final sharpening of the blade is done after sharpening on a sharpener, also using sandpaper.
At the end, the finished knife is polished with velvet or polish.
Note!
As you can see, the process of making a knife with your own hands is not so complicated, so everyone can try their hand at this area.
You can also set the desired and desired design for the future knife. Special attention pay attention to the handle during the design process.
Knife design
Since it is by the handle of the knife that others can then judge your creative thinking and status.
Some write their names on the handle of the knife, draw certain patterns and sketches in the form of tattoos.
The simplest knife can be built in an emergency in the forest, the main thing is to find the materials necessary for its creation.
Note!
It is necessary to find only the cutting part for the knife, and then insert it only into the handle, which will be in the form of a piece of wood, ropes or leather.
Photo of a knife with your own hands
A hunting knife is a must for every hunter. First of all, it is used to finish off and butcher prey, but besides that, it remains faithful helper in the most different situations on the hunt. Now on sale you can find a huge number of various models and modifications of blades. But, despite this, the need to make a knife for yourself may arise. Usually this happens due to the inability to buy the desired blade, either in exchange for a loved one that has been lost or broken, or seen from friends and liked, or there is no such knife on sale that you need.
Making a knife from a 9HF saw
In this article, we will not focus on the shape and design of the blade, the type and width of the sharpening, etc. We believe that finished project or we already have a sample and will focus on the production itself.
A homemade hunting knife, in order to meet the basic requirements for such blades, is recommended to be made from high-carbon alloy steels. For example:
- 9HF- tool alloy steel, used for the manufacture of frame, band and circular saws, punches, edged dies and a number of other tools. Usually, saw blades are taken as blanks;
- R6M5- high-strength high-speed alloy steel. It is used for the manufacture of many types cutting tool, drills, saw circles, from the latter you can make a blank;
- 65G- spring steel, with high wear resistance, amenable to bluing and blackening. Springs, springs, gears, etc. are made. For blanks, in addition to sheets, rear springs of trucks are used. Considered one of the cheapest materials for knives;
- X12, R3M3F2 and a number of others are also suitable.
Material for a workpiece can be taken from the above products, although now on the Internet you can order a plate for a workpiece made of almost any steel. As a recommendation, take a pendulum saw blade for metal, the usual dimensions are 400x30 mm, thickness 2mm, the surface is rough, the color is black or gray. 
If you want to make homemade knife at home, in addition to the material for the workpiece, we need:
- Corner Sander(Bulgarian)
- Cutting wheels for alloy steel, for example inox A54S BF, sharpening and grinding.
- Drill or drilling machine
- Vise
- Pobeditovoe and other special drills
- Files and diamond file
- Emery machine (highly desirable).
The knife making process will be as follows:
The knife handle can be wound with a paracord or made of wood, in the latter case we drill holes in the handle according to a template, according to a sample or drawing. Holes are drilled with special drills with concomitant oil cooling. It is more convenient to do this on a drilling machine.
To simplify the process, the holes are drilled first with small diameter drills, and then gradually reamed to the desired size.
Handle
Knives are designed with different handles. The choice of material for their manufacture depends on the purposes for which the knife is intended, ease of use and personal preferences of the owner. Below are two ways to make a knife handle at home.
Wrapping the handle with paracord in a few minutes
Using a paracord cord as a knife handle is not only easier and faster, but also more practical. You will always have a couple of meters of cord with you, which can be used for a variety of purposes, when surviving in extreme situations.
For winding we need:
- cord, 2 - 2.5 m;
- dense scotch tape or electrical tape;
- lighter or matches;
- scissors;
- gloves;
- screwdriver.
Before you start winding the cord, decide if you need a loop for the lanyard and if so, where it will be, from the side of the blade near the stop or at the end of the handle. If available, in addition to being able to hang a knife, in the first case, it can be threaded thumb, in order to more conveniently and more reliably hold the knife, in the second one, you can remove the knife from its scabbard, etc.
The paracord is wound in the following order:
- We wet the cord, while it stretches better, and when it dries, it will not sit more solidly on the knife.
- We glue the knife blade with tape or tape to avoid accidental cuts or cutting the cord. All operations are best performed with gloves.
- We press one end of the cord on the head of the handle so that 10 cm remains free.
- We form a loop from the cord, laid along the handle in such a way that the top of the loop protrudes a couple of centimeters beyond the cord winding zone.
- Then, holding the knife in your left hand and pressing both ends of the loop with your thumb, right hand we begin to wind the cord around the handle, starting from its head.
We make the winding tight, turn to turn, do not tighten at all, take into account that the cord will still shrink after drying. 
- Having brought the winding to the stop at the blade, we pass the remaining end of the cord into the protruding part of the loop.
- Cut off the excess cord, leaving about 3 - 5 cm, and burn the end of the cord.
- After that, pulling the free end of the cord from the side of the handle head, we pull the loop under the winding until the end threaded into it disappears under the winding. Avoid pulling the loop completely, otherwise the whole winding will unravel.
The wrapping is complete. With this version of the winding loop for the lanyard, we will not have it. If we want to form it, the winding is somewhat complicated. Initially, two loops are placed on the handle on both sides of the knife.
To form a loop under the lanyard on the headband of the knife, the end of the cord is pressed on the head of the handle and one loop is pulled to the blade, then the cord is thrown over the headband and the second loop is also placed on the other side. The winding starts from the headband of the knife. After finishing the winding, the remaining end is threaded into both loops near the blade and pulled under the winding by the loop in the headband, thereby forming it.
So that the loop is near the stop, we do everything the same, but on the contrary, we begin to lay and wind from the stop, in the same place we pull on the loop to tighten the clamped end under the winding.
Making an overhead handle as an alternative to paracord
If you are an adherent of the classics and want to make a regular handle, use wood for this purpose. It is more accessible, easier to work with, the wooden handle is more pleasant to the touch, does not get cold, slips less in the hand, and if properly processed, does not take moisture. The handle of a knife can be made of oak, beech, maple, birch, walnut or mahogany. In order not to waste time and effort on preparing and drying wood, there are two easy ways get it. The first is parquet, you can buy it in a special store, where, by the way, expensive varieties are sold by the piece. Second - old furniture, in the attic, in the garage, in the country, with friends, you can always find unnecessary household rubbish and use it. 
For the handle you need two dies if you have a hand standard size, then 10 - 15 mm thick, this is with a margin for processing, so that the thickness of the future handle is about 20 mm. The length of the blanks is 150 - 200 mm, so that there is a place for their fixation during the initial processing.
In addition to the tree, we will need:
- dowels made of aluminum, copper, brass, iron according to the number of holes, corresponding to the diameter;
- drill with drills or drilling machine;
- drills by the number of holes in the handle of the same diameter;
- a sharpening or grinding machine, it can be replaced by a file on wood and a lot, a lot of time;
- jigsaw or manual jigsaw, or see the previous point;
- an engraving machine or file with a file;
- emery cloth of different numbers down to the smallest;
- epoxy glue;
- linseed oil;
- dense scotch tape or electrical tape;
- vice, clamp.
We do the handle as follows:
- Before starting work, wrap the knife blade with tape or duct tape to avoid accidental cuts.
- The first step is drilling. We put the blank of the knife on a wooden block, press it with a clamp or, at the worst, fasten it with tape and drill holes. To make the hole neat, we first drill with a thin drill, and then we reamer to required diameter... After the first hole has been drilled, we insert a key or drill of the same diameter into it, this is done to fix it so that the die does not move. Let's move on to the next hole.
- We drill the second die in the same way.
- After drilling, we collect the dies on the knife, using dowels or drills, to make sure that all holes match.
- Then, alternately attaching the dies to the knife using dowels or drills and clamps, we outline the contour of the handle along the contour of the knife. It is advisable to outline the handle with a small indent, 1 - 2 mm, for subsequent processing.
- After marking, we cut out the handle with a jigsaw-jigsaw or grind it out on a grinding wheel, in extreme cases, a file in your hands.
- Cooking the dowels. To make a homemade knife look aesthetically pleasing, we will not rivet the dowels, but glue them in. To do this, we make chaotic cuts on the dowels with an engraving machine or file, in which the glue will freeze and seize. At the ends of the dowels, we remove an inclined chamfer for 450.
- Since after gluing it will be inconvenient to handle the stop cheeks, we finally process them and polish them on emery.
- We carefully grind the halves of the handle on the emery from the inside so that they fit snugly when glued to the plane of the knife shank.
- Before gluing, we make the last test assembly.
- The gluing itself is carried out according to the instructions for the glue. The assembly procedure is as follows, we lubricate inner side one half, insert the dowels greased with glue into it, put a knife on them, and then the greased second half.
We clamp the assembled handle in a vice and remove the excess squeezed out glue. We leave the clamped handle for a day. - After the glue has hardened with files, emery, grinding wheel and so on, we finally form, grind and grind the knife handle.
- When the handle is fully polished, it is time to soak. Soaking wood is best linseed oil... It can be bought in the shop for artists, they bred it. oil paints.
The handle is kept in oil for three days to a week. The process can be accelerated by boiling the handle in oil for a couple of hours, but you must strictly monitor the temperature, otherwise glue may leak. 
- Then the handle should dry out at natural temperature for about a month, during this time the oil will polymerize, and the wood will harden and become impervious to moisture.
- After drying, the handle is finally polished with a soft cloth.
Sharpening for beginners
Before talking about sharpening a hunting knife, it should be recalled that homemade knives made from the metals recommended in the article are very difficult and take a long time to sharpen, since the alloyed steels used have high hardness. This must be borne in mind when using the knife for other purposes.
Now about the sharpening itself. IN living conditions knives are sharpened on special whetstones. Such stones are ceramic (the cheapest and most common), diamond, natural and Japanese sea stones. The principle of sharpening on them is approximately the same, therefore, in the future, by default, we will talk about the most common ceramic sharpening stone. 
In order to sharpen a knife with high quality, it is advisable to have either two sharpening bars of different grain size, or, which happens more often, grindstone the sides of which have different grain sizes. For the convenience of sharpening, the size, or rather the length, of the stone should be greater than the length of the knife blade.
It is advisable to sharpen the knife with two hands, therefore, it is advisable to place the sharpening stone on a separate board, fixing it either in a hole specially cut for this, or with the help of six nails driven in on the sides. 
The sharpening of the knife begins on the coarsest stone. At this stage, the whetstone need not be wetted. We place the stone arbitrarily on the table, the main thing is that it is convenient for you to sharpen on it.
The whole sharpening process consists in giving the edge of the blade an acute-angled shape. When doing it, you need to remember a few basic rules:
- need to pick optimal angle sharpen the knife and stick to it throughout the entire process;
- a knife is led along the stone with the blade forward, as if cutting off a thin layer from it;
- in one movement it is necessary to carry out the entire edge of the blade for uniform sharpening;
- the edge of the blade must always be perpendicular to the direction of travel;
- each next time the blade must be turned over and carried out with the other side so as not to displace the center of the blade chamfer;
- movements should be smooth, without pressure;
- it is better to sharpen both sides with a unidirectional movement, either towards oneself or away from oneself, since the movement of the hand away from oneself is always worse and weaker than the movement towards oneself.
Now for the sharpening angle. It can be from 450 to 300, in the first case the knife will keep sharpening longer, in the second it will be sharper. It is better to sharpen a hunting knife exactly under 300, this is easy to achieve, just when sharpening the knife, guide the knife as if you were cutting a thin slice of butter or cheese.
After you have screwed in the initial sharpness, bringing out the angle of the edge of the blade, you can move on to a stone of less fineness. It is advisable to periodically moisten it with water so that the edge of the blade glides better, and metal dust did not clog the pores. 
Final sharpen the blade to a mirror finish and razor sharp, you can strap it on an old leather belt with GOI paste. main feature editing with GOI paste consists in the fact that the knife is led back to the direction of the blade, i.e. butt forward.
Making a scabbard (cover) from leather
One of the essential accessories of a hunting knife is the scabbard. They are needed to protect the blade from dullness, and everything around from cuts and damage to things.
You can make a homemade scabbard yourself at home, from a small piece of leather about 3 mm thick.
To do this, in addition to leather, you will need:
- scissors;
- a sheet of thick paper for a template;
- pen;
- awl (it can be replaced by a sharpened nail or carnations);
- small carnations and a hammer;
- universal glue;
- fork;
- paraffin candle;
- fine emery or grinding machine;
- nylon thread and one or two large needles;
- pliers;
- clasp-button;
- wax or cream.
The procedure for making the cover will be as follows:
- Making a template. Putting the blade of a knife to a sheet of paper, draw a line around it.
Then, around this contour with a centimeter indent, draw another contour, which will be the main one. Cut out the template along the outer contour. Separately, we cut out the T-shaped piece for the fastener, the width of the belts of which is about 20 mm, the length of the belts is measured by the handle of the knife. - We mark the details on the skin. Having applied the template to the skin, we circle the part for one side of the scabbard, then, moving the template to the side by 5 - 8 mm, we circle only one side to get the part for half the insert.
Then, turning the template over, we repeat the steps, outlining the second side and the second half of the insert. Attach and outline the T-piece of the clasp. 
- We take scissors and carefully cut out all the details from the leather.
- Attaching to the knife, we try on all the details for a match.
- We rub the ends of the insert on the clasp with paraffin candles, and then grind them on emery.
- We attach the fastener to one half, and with the help of an awl and studs we outline and punch holes for the thread, in two rows.
- Sew on the fastener, the thread can be pre-lubricated with paraffin.
- For the convenience of subsequent sewing, we glue the parts together. Cut out the part from the template along the contour of the blade itself. We put this part on the half of the scabbard and coat it with glue around it so that the glue does not crawl out of the inserts. We glue according to the instructions on the tube. Lubricate and glue the inserts.
- At the tip of the scabbard, between the inserts, we cut a groove for ventilation.
- We glue the second half. We put the scabbard under the press for a while for high-quality gluing.
- We check how the knife enters and sits.
- We process the edges of the scabbard on emery.
- Using a fork, drawing two prongs along the edge of the scabbard, outline the contour for sewing. With a fork, we mark the places of the holes for the thread.
- If you want, you can get confused by cutting a thread groove on the face of the scabbard so that it is flush with the skin. In this case, it will then need to be polished with wax or cream in the same color as the scabbard.
- We punch holes for the thread with an awl.
- We sew a cover. You can sew with one thread, or in two threads, threading them through the holes one by one.
- We attach the clasp-button.
- Finally, we grind and polish the scabbard with wax or cream.
The scabbard is ready.
This is how I make my knives. Yes, this lesson is no different from the rest. Am I worried about this? No. And it looks like you too. After all, you are reading it.
I've only posted a few posts, but that doesn't mean I haven't done a lot of things.
Knife design
As the name suggests, this is a hunting knife. I could have come up with the design myself, but I decided to print the template from the Internet.
Transferring the outlines to steel 
This stage comes after you got suitable material... I used grade 85 carbon steel. It has excellent properties and is easy to heat treat.
We outline the contour of the knife with a permanent marker. It can be sweaty, but you can do it. You were taught this even in kindergarten.
Cut out the workpiece 
It's time to make a piece of metal look like a knife, but not a hunting knife yet. For this job I use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. So far, perfect accuracy is not important, it is always easier to achieve it with a grinder. Therefore, leave difficult places for him.
Work on grinder and grinding the blade contour 
Now the workpiece can be shaped like a real knife. Bring everything to perfection. Make the knife look better than you might imagine.
Or not. I'm not too worried about this.
More to the point: let its shape follow the line that you have drawn with a marker.
Then you need to align the edges. I made the blade look like a Scandinavian one. I did not take photographs, but for this procedure you just need to hold the blade at the right angle and grind it.
We drill holes for rivets 
This is my least favorite part of the knife making process. For some reason, drilling holes in metal scares me. Perhaps because everything ends up with broken drills.
However, drill a few holes in the shank, depending on the location you want. I also cut a hole for the lanyard, but you can stick with the design you choose.
For the handle, I used 5mm silver nickel rivets. You can also use bronze rods, which are sold at major hardware stores.
Heat treatment 
Heat treatment is my favorite part. What it is? I will tell. The piece of steel you are working on is very soft. So it is easier to cut, grind and give it the desired shape. back side this - the metal is too soft to be a knife. Therefore, it needs to be made more solid. The best way would be to heat the metal to red in a furnace, and then dip it in oil. The oil cools it down very quickly. The only drawback is that the metal becomes very fragile, like glass, and can break, for example, if dropped. Therefore, it must be kept in the oven for several hours at a temperature of 200 ° C. The metal, moderately heated in this way, becomes a little softer until it becomes ideal for the knife blade.
So I did. I warmed it up to 800 ° C and then dipped it in vegetable oil(the process caused a spectacular burning), and then put the knife in the oven.
When in doubt, there is an easy way to make sure the knife is warmed up to the correct temperature.
If in doubt about the temperature, you can easily check it with a magnet. If the metal stops magnetising, then the blade has heated up to 750 ° C. Let it sit in the furnace for a few more seconds and then refrigerate.
Handle pads 
First you need to find suitable tree... I used black walnut because it looks good and I had it close at hand. But you can use any kind of hardwood, as long as it is well dried. Why dry? Because wet over time will deform and dry out, and completely ruin your knife.
So, cut off the overlays a little larger than the shank of the knife.
We drill holes in the linings 
I have not yet found a way to do this properly because it is difficult to securely attach the pads in relation to the shank. Something goes wrong with me every time. In general, try and be wrong.
Punch holes in them somehow so that they line up with the holes in the shank.
Epoxy bonding 
This is one of the stages that annoys me. I do not know why.
You will need a two-component epoxy resin(glue), preferably with long time drying out. I find it difficult to work with resin that hardens in five minutes, it adds stress. I've used JB Weld, but any two-part glue should work. Sorry that there are no more photos with the gluing process, but I was in a hurry and completely forgot about it. It's pretty simple. Mix the ingredients together on something like a piece of cardboard. Then, using an ice cream stick or something similar, apply glue to the pads, shank, rivets. Next, clamp the handles with a clamp, make sure that no glue gets on the blade and wait for the time indicated in the instructions. In my case, it is 24 hours.
Shaping the handle 
Our pads and rivets are now firmly glued. Now is the time to shape the handle. I started from the corner grinder with a petal radial circle. He shoots the material pretty quickly, so you need to be more careful, but at this stage the circle is doing great. Basically, you need to work on the pads as long as the glue is visible on the handle.
Rounding the handle and fine sanding 
I was not fond of photographing this process, but everything is pretty clear with it. Using the flap disc angle grinder, gently round the overlays. Then we move on to the tape grinding machine for finer work. If the shape suits you, you can continue to sand by hand using fine-grain sandpaper, do it until you get bored.
Handle polishing
It is a pity that there are no photos of this stage, but there is not much to show here either.
Apply a wood finish of your choice. I used beeswax with melted linseed oil.
Here comes the knife! 
Congratulations, you just made a knife. Now a few cool pictures and you can use it.
This knife is cool, stays sharp for a long time and is easy to sharpen. In terms of its functionality, it is no different from the purchased one.
As seen on last photo, I made a Kydex scabbard for him.
Just in case, sorry for the quality of the images, the lighting in my workshop is not very good.
Thank you for your attention!
Original article in English
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How to make a hunting knife?
If you look at the assortment of the store, the right kind and the type of hunting blade was never found, then there is a way out! You can make a hunting knife at home with your own hands. To do this, you just need to allocate free time, be patient, read the instructions on how to make a hunting knife yourself and prepare the necessary materials with tools.
The first step towards a new hunting knife with your own hands will be to determine the required type of future blade. For example, on www.mens-tema.ru/ the main types of knives for hunting are blades for cutting, for skinning and for striking. The main features of a hunting knife, which have formed over the centuries, are as follows:
- a blade with a straight butt or a curved blade is allowed;
- the edge of a hunting knife can be both cutting and stabbing;
- the length of the blade must be at least 10 cm;
- the blade must be made of stainless steel, since if moisture gets on the blade frequently, traces of corrosion may appear on its surface;
- it makes sense to make the handle out of wood or durable plastic with a rubber base so that your fingers do not slip when gripping the knife.
To make a neat hunting knife with an excellent balance with your own hands, you cannot do without specialized tools. For work you will need:
- Drill and a set of drills of various diameters;
- Sanding machine;
- File;
- Abrasive bars;
- Grinding wheel;
- Soldering iron.
As materials that will be required for making a hunting knife with your own hands, you should prepare a sheet of steel (65G, R6M5 and R3MZF2 are recommended) and wood or plastic for the handle. For a homemade knife, it is best, of course, to take wood, as it will be easier to work with. Walnut, maple, pear, mahogany, cherry or beech work well.
Next, you will need to prepare a drawing of a hunting knife and cut out a stencil that will help you create a blank using an emery machine. But a person who decides to make a hunting knife with his own hands should understand in advance that the procedure is long. It will be necessary to sharpen, grind irregularities, polish the blade, attach the sleeve and the handle to it, which will need to be sharpened, given a shape that is comfortable to grip and polished.
At the last stage, if the desire to tinker still remains, you can make a simple cover out of leather so that the knife is kept clean and remains in perfect condition... But in the end, the hunter will have a very special blade, which he made for his needs with his own hand!
Article: How to make a hunting knife yourself?
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