We make a concrete countertop with our own hands: step by step instructions. A simple way to make a do-it-yourself epoxy countertop with a choice of material and pouring How to make a do-it-yourself concrete countertop

The furnishings in the house provide comfort and suit your tastes. However, not always furniture stores can offer something that suits your interior vision. And standard solutions are by no means something that suits people striving for individual design. It is easier, of course, to order an exclusive and pay money for it. But it's much more interesting to implement the idea yourself. For example, epoxy for countertops makes it possible to create any kind of creative surface that is unique and unrepeatable. Of course, you have to work hard. But epoxy is a fairly simple material to work with, and the basics of handling it will not be difficult to master.

Advantages of the material

What epoxy is especially good for for pouring countertops is that it retains its original volume when it dries. The varnish, for example, dries due to the evaporation of the liquid entering it. As a result, its layer shrinks, which often creates problems. The hardening of the resin is caused by a chemical reaction. And if you need a lens by design, you will get it. Moreover, it will not be susceptible to chips, deletions, or deformations. And just a flat surface will remain flat, without sagging as it dries.

Another advantage that epoxy has is the price. The material is cheaper than others designed to create durable surfaces. The cost on average fluctuates between 200 and 280 rubles per kilogram. And if you need bulk epoxy resin, the price will drop to 180-190, depending on the globality of the batch.

Success guarantee: preparation

To mix the material, you will need vessels (the volume depends on how much epoxy you need), a stirring stick and two measuring containers. Before mixing, you need to carefully study the instructions: the proportions of the components are different and depend on the manufacturer. They must be strictly observed, otherwise the material will harden badly.

The epoxy is measured first, followed by the hardener for the resin. You need to pour it into the base, and not vice versa. The combined materials are kneaded as thoroughly as possible, the quality of solidification also depends on this. Upon reaching homogeneity, it is required to wait until the resin reaches the desired consistency, after which it can be used as directed.

What stage to use for what

Countertop epoxy comes in several thicknesses, and each is suitable for a different purpose.

Liquid stage: the composition flows freely from the stick. Ideal condition for filling forms - at this stage all corners and valleys will be filled.
Density of the "liquid honey" type. It flows down from the probe and lingers on the tip. Exactly what you need to create drops and lenses. Also suitable for filling soft shapes, such as round worktops.
Stage "thick honey". It is practically not suitable for pouring, but it is impeccable as a glue - the previous consistencies will drain.
The next stage, in which the resin is separated from the total mass with difficulty, is not very suitable for any purpose. Either they do not bring it to it, or they expect even greater thickening.
The rubber phase allows you to create bizarre shapes like plasticine sculpting. True, in order for the epoxy resin for the countertop to retain its shape, it will have to be fixed in the desired position, otherwise it will straighten.

The last stage is hard. When the epoxy reaches it, your countertop can be considered finished.

Subtleties of the process

Before making a countertop out of epoxy resin, take care not to add to your work in the future. In particular, cover the table you are working on or the floor under the workbench with polyethylene - leaking resin is removed with great effort.

Until the surface is dry, it will collect all the dust. Consider the coverage option in advance. For example, low racks, on which the film "roof" will be stretched.

Water must not enter the resin or hardener. Including from the air, so it is not worth working with high humidity. It also requires a specific temperature regime: if the room is less than 22 Celsius, you risk getting a poorly cured countertop. The setting can be accelerated by increasing the temperature, for example, by placing the product on a radiator. It is not worth heating with a hairdryer: the resin will boil and give a huge variety of bubbles.

If a bubble appears near the surface when the epoxy for the countertop is just being poured, it can be blown onto it through a cocktail tube, a thin syringe, or even the body of a ballpoint pen. The ball will burst without spoiling the craft.

Nuances of use

A table top made of epoxy resin, made by hand, has its own characteristics in operation. First, the material tends to turn yellow from sunlight and sometimes from heat. If you plan to put a table in a southern room or kitchen, as well as in an unprotected garden gazebo- buy a base with a UV filter.

Secondly, from the cold, flakes or grains sometimes form in the countertop. You can return it to its original appearance by warming up to 40-60 degrees.

Third, the epoxy resin for the countertop used in kitchen conditions, and is not at all very suitable, as it can emit toxins from heating. If you want to put such a table in the kitchen, cover the surface with a protective transparent varnish. Best of all - intended for yachts.

Form for countertops

It will be needed if you want to make it completely from epoxy, without using anything as a support surface. For the form, you can take the glass of the desired size. It is thoroughly washed, wiped dry and degreased with acetone. Then the surface is rubbed with wax mastic, which after a third of an hour is polished with a dry cloth. The sides can be made of aluminum corners; if you want perfectly smooth countertop edges, buy polished ones. The inner surface is treated with a mixture of turpentine and paraffin. They are attached to the glass with window putty.

All these procedures are required so that the epoxy resin for the countertop does not stick to the mold, and the finished product is easily removed from it. However, if you intend to insert the surface into a "frame", you do not need to worry about the smoothness of the cuts. in this case, the sides can be assembled from any available material and sandwiched with polyethylene or rubber - epoxy does not stick to them.

Otherwise, everything is simple: a solution is prepared, brought to the desired consistency and poured. To obtain a varied structure, you can tint the resin with water-insoluble dyes or add inclusions to it - small pebbles, fragments of colored glass, etc.

Coin idea

It is not at all necessary to make a tabletop only from this material. Epoxy resin for countertops makes it possible to use a variety of additional elements. For example, having an old but sturdy countertop, you can actually make a new one out of it, and a very unusual one. The surface is cleaned; you can paint it in a suitable color. Old coins are cleaned with a special solution. The table top fits neatly, low curbs are stuffed around the edges. Coins are laid out inside the "box". There is no need to fix them in any way. It remains to fill the form with epoxy and wait for it to set. This idea is especially good for a bar counter.

Wood plus resin

Highly an elegant solution there will be a combination of epoxy with natural wood. Either an ordinary tabletop is knocked together from boards with caverns, or they are artistically cut out on the finished one. The surface is sanded to smoothness; fluorescent dyes are added to the diluted resin. All cleaned caverns are filled with the composition. After drying, the worktop is covered with polyurethane varnish in several layers with intermediate sanding. An unusual and colorful table is ready!

fb.ru

Epoxy resin for pouring countertops: which one to choose

Epoxy resin for pouring countertops: which one to choose and which hardeners are best used in the manufacture and repair of furniture. Almost any forum for joiners and craftsmen is filled with criticism of ED-20 resin, through which people not only wasted money, but also spoiled the source material. The main disadvantage domestic epoxy (at a low price) - a high degree of viscosity (not all air bubbles come out), and over time, the material tends to lose transparency and acquire a yellowish tint.

What is the best resin to choose for making a transparent countertop? For coffee tables and desks, you can use acrylic resins designed for floors or bathtubs. For example, if the fill thickness does not exceed 3 mm, the composition QTP-1130 is suitable, it has high degree transparency, as well as the property of self-leveling.

Regarding the popular composition of "Art-Eco", the reviews are different, for some it does not harden to the end and gives a yellowish tint to the light. Others respond positively. However, for thin layers, such a resin will most likely work without problems, especially if a little more hardener is added. Art-Eco has good colors, if you want to have a transparent layer with some shade, then their use is 100% justified.

For more complex countertops, such as when working with fillers (lids, coins, herbarium), CHS Epoxy 520 resin is a proven option together with 921OP hardener. This is the most popular option. 520 resin is also often replaced by Crystal Glass, but it is more fluid, more suitable for thin layers, although somewhat better in transparency (but not much). The proportions are 2: 1, that is, there is one hardener for two parts of the resin.

Probably 520 epoxy is the best option, although she is often scolded.

Quite good resin MG-EPOX-STRONG and in general everything from Epox.

Photo resistance tests show that the Russian PEO-610KE resin and the imported EpoxAcast 690 resin do not turn yellow at all. So if the table stands in the sun, then these options should be considered for the countertop.

It is also worth considering one important point- the quality of the compositions often differs due to the expiration dates (labels are re-glued in stores), fakes, and simply because of factory defects.

Fill errors

Often, epoxy resin for pouring countertops is scolded due to lack of experience when working with it. Even expensive jewelry resins harden unevenly if mistakes are made when preparing the mixture. Here are some tips for working with countertop resin:

Use electronic scales when determining proportions. First, pour in the resin, weigh, then, based on this weight, calculate the proportions of the hardener, and then pour it in.

After mixing, pour into another container. If stains or uncured areas are obtained during pouring, this means that the epoxy resin and hardener have mixed unevenly. This usually occurs due to adhesion to the walls of the container, so that better composition pour several times from one bottle to another, stirring for a long time each time.

Mix - with a spatula or a thick spatula, without removing it from the composition. To avoid bubbles, you need to mix the epoxy with the hardener with a thick stirrer, being careful not to bring it to the surface.

So many are looking for a long time, which epoxy resin to choose for pouring the countertop, but it is not the composition that is to blame, but the mistakes that the master makes, for example, when mixing components.

Novosti-online.info

novosti-online.info

DIY creative epoxy table

One of the easiest and most effective ways to make your home interior bright and creative is to make a table from epoxy resin with your own hands. Unique properties epoxies allow you to embody the craziest design idea and make both a simple table and a real masterpiece of an amazing shape. And the possibility of using various fillings allows you to make the table a real work of art.

Epoxy - advantages and nuances of work

The use of epoxy resin for the manufacture of furniture (table, bedside table, bar counter) with your own hands at home has whole line advantages. For example, this material does not change in volume when it dries. If other compositions shrink due to the evaporation of liquid during solidification, then the epoxy hardens due to chemical reactions and retains its original volume.

The epoxy resin surface is not afraid of damage and does not deform, it does not crack and chip during use. Another important advantage of this material is its affordable cost. And for a novice master, it is important that it is quite simple to work with epoxy. This does not require special skills, it is enough to clearly follow the instructions.

All work must be carried out in a special painting paper suit, rubber gloves and a headdress (for example, a shower cap). These precautions must be taken because dust particles or hairs that have gotten into the resin from the human body will be extremely difficult to remove.

Material preparation and work conditions

Epoxy resins for decorative works Sold in kits that include a resin and a special hardener that is required to initiate the chemical curing reaction of the product. Since this process is irreversible, the epoxy must be prepared strictly according to the instructions, observing the proportions of the components indicated by the manufacturer. It should be remembered that the proportions of epoxy and hardener can vary significantly for different manufacturers.

To mix the components, 2 measuring containers are required. suitable sizes and a stirring stick. You must first measure out the resin and then pour into it. required amount hardener, then stir the mixture thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained. If the kneading is not done thoroughly enough, then the finished mass will harden badly.

The workpiece of the future table should be located strictly horizontally, otherwise the tabletop will turn out to be uneven, with influxes. The pouring mold should be completely dry before carrying out work; moisture must not be allowed to enter the solution or on the work surface. It is necessary to manufacture the structure at low air humidity and temperatures above +22 degrees Celsius. The higher the room temperature, the faster the mixture will solidify.

Some craftsmen seek to speed up the hardening process of the material using construction hair dryer or other heating devices, but this can lead to the mixture "boiling" with the subsequent formation of air bubbles... If, while pouring the epoxy resin with your own hands, bubbles nevertheless form, then they must be carefully removed. This can be done with a syringe or cocktail tube.

To prevent particles of dust and debris from getting into the solidified mixture, it is recommended to use special racks with a film material or tarpaulin stretched over them to protect the table from foreign particles. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the protective coating does not come into contact with the surface of the tabletop.

Since cured epoxy is extremely difficult to remove from the surface, it must not be allowed to spill onto the floor. To do this, close the floor around the table. plastic wrap, which can be thrown away after completion of work. If, nevertheless, there is a need to remove the frozen mixture, then this can be done mechanically or using special solvents.

General principles for making epoxy countertops

In order for the epoxy table to turn out exactly as you intended it, the mold must be filled at a suitable stage of the mixture hardening. So, in the liquid stage, the resin flows freely from the stirring rod. This material is great for filling shapes and filling in depressions, corners. Once the epoxy has acquired the consistency of honey, it can be used as an adhesive. The material at the rubber stage resembles plasticine; various elements can be sculpted from it. When the resin reaches the solid stage, the table is ready for its intended use.

You can make the tabletop one-color, with a combination of colors, with various attachments, with a combination of materials, or completely made of epoxy. In the latter case, it is necessary to make a template (formwork) from a glass base and aluminum corners. The glass must be thoroughly washed, wiped, treated with degreasing agents. Aluminum sides must be attached to the glass with window grease and rubbed with wax mastic. Such processing is necessary so that later the form can be easily removed from the frozen countertop.

Solid or transparent top

Making a table with a single-color top begins with cleaning and degreasing the workpiece. If a material that absorbs liquids (for example, wood) is used as a base, then it must first be primed with resin. This will avoid the appearance of bubbles during operation. The next step is to make an epoxy mixture and pour it into the mold.

If the table is to be made in color, then the appropriate coloring pigment must be added to the resin, while it is desirable that the dye is from the same manufacturer as the epoxy. If you want the color of the countertop to be combined, then in the process of pouring you need to use resin with dyes of several shades.

After pouring, it is necessary to leave the countertop for 10-15 minutes, and then remove bubbles, if any. After two days, you can grind and polish the product. After a week, the table is completely ready for use.

Making countertops with filler

The most unusual option epoxy furniture is a table top with filler. Various small figures, stones, coins, bottle caps and other items can be used as filler. In the manufacture of such a product, the workpiece must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased (if necessary, painted), and also equipped with small sides. Then you should put the fillers on the bottom of the base.

Attachments must be thoroughly cleaned and dried completely, as the use of a damp filler may cause whiteness. If the attachments are lightweight, then they must be glued to the base, otherwise they may float.

If the fillers are simple in shape and small in height (up to 5 mm), then the resin should be poured in one layer. If the attachments are large or textured (they have protrusions and depressions), then the filling should be done in several stages with interruptions of up to two days. It may take up to 3 hours for the resin to penetrate into the grooves of the curly fillers, so experienced craftsmen it is recommended to pre-immerse the textured elements in resin, and only then lay them in a mold.

Another popular solution is to combine epoxy and natural wood... For this in wooden countertop cavities are formed, after which wooden surface carefully sanded. A fluorescent pigment is added to the prepared resin, then the cavities are filled with this mixture. After complete drying, the product is covered with several layers of varnish with intermediate sanding. When the work is finished, the table is ready for use.

At your request, read more:

Similar topics with your hands table

One of the easiest and most effective ways to make your home interior bright and creative is to make a table from epoxy resin with your own hands. The unique properties of epoxy allow you to embody the craziest design idea and make both a simple table and a real masterpiece of an amazing shape. And the possibility of using various fillings allows you to make the table a real work of art.

The use of epoxy resin for the manufacture of furniture (table, bedside table, bar counter) with your own hands at home has a number of advantages. For example, this material does not change in volume when it dries. If other compositions shrink due to the evaporation of liquid during solidification, then the epoxy hardens due to chemical reactions and retains its original volume.

Decorative epoxy resins are sold in kits that include a resin and a special hardener that is required to trigger a chemical reaction to cure the product. Since this process is irreversible, the epoxy must be prepared strictly according to the instructions, observing the proportions of the components indicated by the manufacturer. It should be remembered that the proportions of epoxy and hardener can vary significantly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

To mix the components, you need 2 measuring containers of suitable size and a stirring rod. You must first measure the resin, and then pour the required amount of hardener into it, and then mix the mixture thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained. If the kneading is not done thoroughly enough, then the finished mass will harden badly.

Some craftsmen try to speed up the hardening process of the material using a building hair dryer or other heating devices, but this can lead to the mixture "boiling" with the subsequent formation of air bubbles. If, while pouring epoxy resin with your own hands, bubbles nevertheless form, then they must be carefully removed. This can be done with a syringe or cocktail tube.

Since cured epoxy is extremely difficult to remove from the surface, it must not be allowed to spill onto the floor. To do this, cover the floor around the table with plastic wrap, which can be thrown away after finishing work. If, nevertheless, there is a need to remove the frozen mixture, then this can be done mechanically or with the help of special solvents.

The most unusual option for epoxy furniture is a tabletop with a filler. Various small figures, stones, coins, bottle caps and other items can be used as filler. In the manufacture of such a product, the workpiece must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased (if necessary, painted), and also equipped with small sides. Then you should put the fillers on the bottom of the base.

If the fillers are simple in shape and small in height (up to 5 mm), then the resin should be poured in one layer. If the attachments are large or textured (they have protrusions and depressions), then the filling should be done in several stages with interruptions of up to two days. It may take up to 3 hours for the resin to penetrate into the grooves of the curly fillers, so experienced craftsmen recommend first immersing the textured elements in the resin, and only then placing them in the mold.

Another popular solution is to combine epoxy and natural wood. For this, cavities are formed in the wooden countertop, after which the wooden surface is carefully sanded. A fluorescent pigment is added to the prepared resin, then the cavities are filled with this mixture. After complete drying, the product is covered with several layers of varnish with intermediate sanding. When the work is finished, the table is ready for use.

Today, there are many materials from which you can get aesthetic and practical furniture, and epoxy has recently been included in their number. With the help of wood and this glue, quite interesting are made design tables and shelves. Below we will tell you all about the technical process.

Until recently, this two-component adhesive was widely used mainly for secure bonding. various materials, then it began to be used as a component for self-leveling floors. At the same time, such properties as low surface abrasion, high strength, durability were noted. Further, some transparent grades began to be used for very interesting dioramas, where epoxy resin with dyes imitated water. Moreover, the creators made whole tables depicting various landscapes. Perhaps it was these experiments that prompted the creation of designer furniture from wood and epoxy glue.

Epoxy can be shaped into any shape

The main thing that can be noted as the advantage of the aforementioned polymer resin is the ability to give it any shape due to fluidity in a liquid state and plasticity at the stage of solidification.... In addition, the hardened glue is quite easy to process, in particular: it is sanded and polished, if necessary, it can be drilled, and grooves can be ground in it. There are both absolutely transparent marks after hardening, and those with a red, brown, yellowish or whitish color to the entire depth. In this case, in a liquid consistency, it is allowed to add various components that improve or simply change the properties of the composition. The main thing positive property glue - no shrinkage due to the fact that the composition hardens exclusively due to a chemical reaction, and, as a result, a flat surface is maintained.

Now let's talk about the disadvantages. The fact that the cured epoxy resin is easy to process is sometimes also a minus, since scratches easily appear on the surface. Otherwise, the wear resistance of this material is very high. Another factor that hinders the widespread use of glue for the production of furniture is its price, which is quite impressive and allows you to create only single designer items. Especially expensive are the brands that differ in absolute transparency after solidification. And, of course, do not forget about the toxicity of the polymer resin fumes, which should be carried out in well-ventilated rooms and always wear a respirator.

Today there are many brands of domestic and foreign production. For the manufacture of furniture, in fact, any are suitable, if you do not have special requirements for the result, but if you want to combine wood with epoxy resin, you definitely need transparent compounds. Otherwise, you will not be able to show the beauty of wood fibers in the depth of the fill. As a rule, among the imported options, you should pay attention to the brand YD-128 characterized by a high degree of transparency. Also proved to be excellent MG-Epox-Strong used for filling and obtaining transparent optical products. If you need a colored finish, use MG Epox White- this type is characterized by a milky white color.

Liquid glue is required for filling.

All of the above options are a two-component glue of a liquid consistency, which, in fact, is what you need for pouring, since pasty is not suitable for this purpose. It should be noted that different brands can be quite successfully combined with each other, in this case dairy inclusions of the same type of glue can be enclosed in the thickness of the transparent filling. It will look especially impressive with the addition of dyes and in combination with wood inclusions. The main thing is not to mix too large portions, since in this case the reaction with the hardener heats the composition, which is why it polymerizes faster.

There are 5 states of glue. If it has a liquid base, its consistency after mixing with the hardener will be appropriate, such an epoxy should have good flow properties. It is she who is recommended to fill in the manufacture of a furniture panel, whether it be a shelf of a shelf or a future wall of a chest of drawers. The thicker version, like honey or molasses, is suitable for gluing and for pouring in layers. Thickened to the point where there is almost no fluidity and separate parts are difficult to separate, sometimes it is suitable as a putty. Further, the glue begins to resemble rubber, or plasticine, however, it remains very sticky, which does not prevent it from giving it an arbitrary shape with a stick or wire. And finally, the last state is completely solidified.

As mentioned above, 2 types of glue are used for the manufacture of furniture - transparent and matte, and each of them can be colored. We will now look at both options in more detail. For various combinations with wood or other inclusions, it is best to use transparent mixtures, especially those used for optical castings. In this case, even through a thick layer of glue, every detail of the inclusion will be clearly visible, be it fibers, trimming wood or metal elements (for example, old badges or gears). When you add a special dye, the transparency decreases slightly, but not completely, but the fill gets a saturated color.

You can create interesting interior items from colored epoxy

If you want to get a high-quality dyed mixture, add the color scheme of the same manufacturer that made the adhesive mass.

Color mixtures are initially somewhat cloudy, they can be called rather translucent, and they are unsuitable as the main fill covering the wood. The reason is simple - any inclusions will simply not be visible. But you can do the opposite and fill in such all kinds of cavities in the cut of wood, voids from knots, openings of woodworms on the saw cut. A luminescent dye combined with glue will look especially impressive. Then the slightest illumination will be enough for the furniture panel or tabletop to start glowing by itself.

Such a combination as epoxy and wood has worked well for the simple reason that a perfectly smooth surface is obtained, and at the same time, the pouring rate is relatively small. The main volume is occupied by wood, which is covered from all sides by a thin layer of polymer resin. However, be prepared for the fact that the expense will still be significant. It is easy to calculate that 10 square centimeters of filling with a thickness of 1 centimeter will take 100 grams of glue. Accordingly, 10 liters of the composition will be needed per 1 square meter, and 20 liters for the 1x2 meter countertop. And this is only for the top layer, if you make a layer of epoxy thicker, in order to immerse wood scraps or a boardboard into it, you will need at least 2 times more mixture.

There are quite a few subtleties of using glue. In particular, an interesting effect can be achieved by adding a little water to the composition. At this point, milky white streaks form, similar to a nebula. That is, with small drops of water, you can get beautiful blotches in the painted epoxy. You can make a multi-color coating by filling portions painted with different colors in portions or separating them with small thin plastic barriers. But such fillings should be quite thin, no more than 0.5 centimeters, on top you will need another, transparent layer. You can paint the composition with ordinary dry gouache, as well as writing ink (including paste from ballpoint pens), oil and nitro paints.

Epoxy has very strong adhesion to almost all materials, in other words, if you choose the wrong formwork, the glue will stick to it tightly. The only thing that epoxy does not stick to is plexiglass, the main thing is that there are no scratches and chips on it. Also, some craftsmen recommend using strips and sheets of polished aluminum. If you want to finish the table only from the top, epoxy resin is poured into the formwork, fixed to the side edges of the panel. Accordingly, the ends of the countertop will not be covered with glue.

If only the surface of the countertop needs to be coated with resin, formwork should be done

It is quite another matter if you need a thickness of transparent polymer, inside which, like an insect in amber, a saw cut of wood or its individual fragments will be enclosed. In this case, the inclusions should be fixed with an ordinary starch paste on the base, which will serve as a large sheet of plexiglass. If you want the wood to be in the middle of the epoxy, attach the inclusion to the sides of the formwork. The walls of the mold must be attached to the base sheet only from the outside, so that they can be easily detached after the mixture has completely solidified.

We knead and fill in epoxy - we make a transparent or colored panel

It is noteworthy that the reaction after mixing the main component of the glue with the hardener is accompanied by heating the composition. And the larger the portion volume, the stronger the heating, the faster the epoxy sets. Therefore, it is recommended to use only small containers. Some experts advise adding acetone to the main component, about 10% of the total, and only before mixing with the hardener. This will reduce heat and prolong the hardening process of the composition. You can also influence the hardening process by slowing it down somewhat by cooling the dishes. With a sharp cooling, solidification in the future will proceed very slowly, over several days.

Furniture made of transparent epoxy resin is of two types - solid cast or assembled from pre-fabricated panels. In the first case, the stools look like curbstones, the tables are more like thick slabs, while the second option is closer to the classic furniture samples. But whichever type you choose, before the wood and the mixed epoxy are connected, the base must be perfectly leveled using a level, it is not difficult to do this with your own hands. Otherwise the mixture will drain to the lower edge. For horizontal alignment, wedges can be placed under the edges, and under the middle of the plank of different thicknesses, so that the plexiglass sheet does not bend. A table made of wood also needs to be leveled by placing thin inserts under the legs.

Now we are preparing the fill. To do this, you will need a small container, approximately 0.5 liters, maximum 1 liter, and a mixing stick. Measurements should be included in the kit, if they are not there, prepare cups with graduations applied to them. We take the main component, measure out a certain amount of it, sufficient to obtain a thin layer. If the epoxy table has large area, prepare several containers at once for mixing the amount, which will create a layer approximately 0.5 centimeters thick. Open all windows to allow fresh air to enter the room.

Be sure to wear special clothing that will not fall off the threads, put your hair under a hat or kerchief, put gloves on your hands. It is highly undesirable for the composition to include hairs, eyelashes, villi. In order for wood and transparent epoxy resin products to be bubble-free, if you find excess inclusions after emptying the container with the composition into the formwork, slightly warm such an area with a hairdryer, the air should escape out. Curing takes several days, especially if the fill forms several layers. Further, to smooth the countertop, we carefully grind and polish the surface with the thinnest emery paper and felt with special pastes.

Epoxy resin table

The epoxy resin table is the pinnacle of the modern furniture industry. For many years now, such tables have been a luxury item that can truly decorate any interior. The 365news editors worked in this direction, collecting detailed information about what an epoxy table is, what types it can be, and how you can make it yourself from scrap materials.

The depths of the sea in miniature

The pros and cons of epoxy tables

Looking closely at this or that building material, you always wonder how good it is, and whether its merits really outweigh all its disadvantages. Positive traits epoxy resins are as follows:

increased strength to mechanical damage and moisture resistance;
long service life;
ease of care;
the ability to implement various design solutions;
availability for independent work - only a little skill and knowledge of a certain technology is required;
low cost - epoxy resin for pouring countertops is relatively inexpensive when considered on a par with concrete, solid wood or stone. And in terms of quality characteristics, they are in no way inferior to them.

Epoxy is not an ideal material in every sense. Products made from it also have disadvantages:

sensitivity to processing with any abrasive compounds - unpleasant scratches remain;
improperly prepared resin can subsequently compromise the quality of the final product;
some types of epoxy resins are not resistant to ultraviolet light and over time they begin to give off yellowness;
release of toxins. They begin to be released into the atmosphere only after prolonged contact with high temperatures, so you should not be afraid to put a hot dish or a cup of coffee on an epoxy table. But soldering on such countertops or burning them is highly discouraged.

Note! Epoxy resin does not flammable or melt even when in contact with an open flame. But here it will poison the air pretty much.

Types of epoxy tables and their features

Looking closely at the purchase of an epoxy resin table and considering the prices, you come to the conclusion: in fact, they are all similar to each other. And such products can be divided into several groups.

Epoxy resin worktops without support surface

An epoxy worktop is a separately manufactured element that can become both a part of a table and a work surface in a kitchen set.

You can simply buy an epoxy countertop and place it on your support base. It remains only to pick up right size and advantageous design.

Countertops made of epoxy resin, wood and other supporting elements

Also, epoxy resin countertops are made on any supporting structures. Most often it is a base made of timber, metal, plastic or solid wood. Someone manages to adapt the bases from old stools and chairs as a support for countertops.

As a rule, craftsmen, for greater reliability, make the supporting elements and the tabletop a single whole, pouring epoxy directly onto them into the pre-installed formwork.

Wooden table with extra filling and epoxy resin

Tables from wooden elements and epoxies are incredibly popular today. At the same time, in many designer models there is nothing extraordinary - just beautiful (sometimes ugly beautiful) pieces of wood, whole wood massifs filled with resin. For example, like the tables made of wood and epoxy resin in the photo below.

In such interesting tables other decoration elements can be added: phosphorus for night glow, sea pebbles, glass, sparkles, shells - only the imagination of the creators will be a limitation here.

Note! Light objects must be sure to stick to the base, otherwise they will float when pouring!

Slab and epoxy table - style and incredible beauty

Making tables out of wood, or rather from slab and epoxy resin, is the trend of the season. First of all, because a slab - a cut from a tree - has a unique texture, shape and pattern. It's like fingerprints: there are no identical cuts, each is unique in its own way. Therefore, products made from them are very highly valued by both aesthetes and manufacturers.

Making such a table or tabletop yourself is not so difficult. You just need to choose the right slab and fill it with transparent or colored epoxy.

River table based on epoxy resin

The table from liquid glass and a tree, the so-called "river". In fact, these are two slabs, between which epoxy is poured blue perfectly imitating water clean river... Some models also have glass that completely covers the entire surface. Here, as they say, the taste and color.

Some craftsmen add phosphorus to the epoxy, which turns such a table into a kind of night light. Tabletops with the so-called multi-stage slab look especially interesting, giving mystery and depth. You can also buy tables with fish, reefs and whole sea colonies inside an epoxy filler. But such products are rare. It's easier to make such beauty yourself.

If you decide to buy a table made of wood and epoxy resin: we focus on the price overview and the main quality criteria

Oh, to love - so the queen, to steal - so a million, to buy a table - so from epoxy! If you are an adherent of just such views, then pay attention to the small nuances when choosing such furniture, so that later you do not complain about armless craftsmen.

"River" for every taste

It should be noted right away that any epoxy furniture is handmade... Therefore, the risk of marriage is great. Still, the human factor plays a decisive role in the manufacture of such furniture. What should be a quality epoxy table:

no chips, cracks, scuffs or other defects - even the smallest ones. Do not hesitate and look under the countertop;
we look at the thickness of the table top - it should be the same on all sides. No slopes and distortions;
We carefully look at the epoxy - no bubbles, no matter how the seller explains that this is all the way it is needed for greater decorativeness. Air bubbles in the hardened epoxy resin are a sign of an incorrect technology for working with it, this dramatically reduces the quality of the final product;
whether you need glass on the surface or not is up to you. Keep in mind that glass on a countertop is the most fragile element, unlike epoxy and wood.

As noted, epoxy tables are handmade. This means that such an exclusive will cost a lot. For example, small coffee tables can be bought in the price range from 11,000 to 30,000 rubles - or more. Dining and office tables cost from 50,000 rubles - it all depends on the model and prices of the master. Prices shown are current as of September 2018.

Epoxy table manufacturing technology

For those whose hands itch to make a table from epoxy on their own, we will show you how to do it correctly and inexpensively.

Having watched a bunch of videos about how easy and simple it is to work with epoxy resin, I just want to make a tabletop with my own hands. But from what? For a beginner in this field, the choice of epoxy can be confusing. What types and brands do not exist!

"ED-20" Is one of the popular and inexpensive resins used both for pouring furniture and for decoration. Popularity has earned its low cost. This plus is balanced by a minus - the yellowness of the products. Of course, yellowness is not acquired immediately, but over time, and only if the filled resin was exposed to direct sunlight. It is also characterized by increased ductility, which is not good when working with resin, especially for beginners. To solve such problems, you can purchase an epoxy plasticizer - for example, EpoxyMax DBP.

"Art-Eco"- crystal clear and transparent resin, designed to work with thin products, including countertops. It is recommended to use hardeners during work. From negative aspects yellowness is noted on transparent products in direct sunlight. This drawback is eliminated by the use of dyes, which can also be purchased from this manufacturer.

"QTP-1130" – perfect option for pouring tables and countertops, provided that the thickness of the epoxy layer is no more than 3 mm. It is easy to work with - no additional plasticizers or hardeners are needed. Self-leveling, which is very convenient for beginners.

"EP-SM-PRO"- inexpensive composite epoxy resin. Good for working with wood. Mixes uniformly, practically no bubbles appear, transparency is good, solidifies to the end and relatively quickly. It has a liquid consistency, which must be taken into account when forming the formwork - it can leak even through small cracks.

PEO-610KE, EpoxyMaster 2.0, EpoxAcast 690. Products made from these resins are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and have crystal transparency. It is pleasant to work with such compositions - they are not viscous, they quickly and completely freeze, they have a slight tendency to self-leveling.

"ArtLine Crystal Epoxy"- suitable for work with both jewelry and tabletops of small thickness. Liquid, transparent, well leveled with a spatula. The products are transparent and distortion-free. Bubbles are practically not formed and are easily removed. Does not react very well with some types of dried flowers. If you work with just such a filling, determine in advance whether there is a conflict between the epoxy and the herbarium. Feedback on the use of a similar epoxy resin is below.

"MG-EPOX-STRONG"- a universal epoxy resin, more recommended for pouring countertops and tables. It has excellent quality and performance characteristics. It's a pleasure to work with her. Suitable for pouring thick tabletops and for working with various fillers - from weightless phosphorus to heavy stones and coins. At the same time, there is no yellowness, high mechanical strength and resistance to high temperatures.

A drawing is made, according to which the supporting structure, formwork and fillers, if any, are worked out in detail.
Depending on the type of epoxy selected, the consistency and the appropriate dilution proportions are selected for further work.

Note! Some formulations are not diluted, you can work with them almost immediately - and this leads to an increase in the cost of the final product.

Support structure fabrication

In our small master class, we will look at how you can make a simple coffee table from materials available to everyone, resulting in designer furniture.

Formwork and filling preparation

We do the first fitting - we spread the filler around the perimeter of the countertop in order to understand how thick to glue the furniture tape.

Illustration	Description of action
	It all depends on the thickness of the decor, you need it to be buried in the epoxy at least half.
	Gently glue the tape on the tabletop, since this is not just a formwork, but a part of our table.
	We lay out the decor on the countertop exactly as it will look in the final version. We remember the location and remove everything.
	We take the glue and apply it to the back of the lid.
	We glue all the covers to the countertop. We do this carefully, as each glue drip will be visible on the transparent surface.

Epoxy preparation

How to prepare epoxy resin - the instructions on the package will tell you. In our case, we used "Epoxy Master 2.0". It is a two-component formulation. If you need to add colors, add color only to component "A" until you get the desired shade. Mix thoroughly.

Note! To better dissolve the pigment, we put it for some time to a battery or in a water bath, the temperature of which will not be more than 40 ° C, but not less than 30 ° C. If the resin overheats, it can be thrown away.

Add component "B" - hardener, in a ratio of 100: 35, as indicated in the instructions. Mix thoroughly. If bubbles suddenly form, then the resin can be heated with a hairdryer, while stirring until they evaporate. The shelf life of the resulting solution is approximately 7 hours.

How to properly fill the countertop with epoxy resin

The most important stage of work is pouring with resin. The most important thing here is to follow the instructions exactly. Gently pour in the diluted composition from the middle. Under the weight of its gravity, it will begin to level out. If the area of the table top is large, then expand the fill radius. When the entire volume to the edges of the formwork is filled, we smooth out the epoxy with a trowel as carefully as possible. If the surface is not even with the thickness of the formwork, fill up the missing grams as accurately as possible and level it again. We leave our tabletop to solidify until the end.

Ready table

Basically, we got final product which you can use for your own pleasure. The use of Epoxy Master 2.0 does not imply final grinding of the product. But if you still need it, we recommend watching the video on how to make a table from epoxy resin with your own hands.

Epoxy resin, although harmless in a cured state, can cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes in the working state. Therefore, we work with it only in good quality rubber gloves - without the risk of sudden gaps. These gloves will need to be discarded immediately after one priming session.

Also, do not forget about glasses, a respirator. The latter may not be worn - it all depends on the type of epoxy used. We carefully read the instructions before buying. We also cover all parts of the body with clothes - no open skin... Be sure to work with epoxy only in well-ventilated areas, where you and your household do not sleep or stay in a row for more than 5 hours. If the curing time of the resin is more than 3 days, it is necessary to purchase a dust and organic filter.

Note! Liquid epoxy can be easily removed from any surface with warm water. Not with a wet cloth, but directly with water.

As we have seen, working with epoxy is really quite simple. You just need to choose the right composition, both in terms of characteristics and the level of complexity of working with it. And there - forward, to the creation of masterpieces!

Step 1: Assembling the formwork

Begin brain process from cutting to the size of the desired table top of the melamine formwork parts. And at this stage, you should pay attention to two points: the thickness and the protrusion, in my case the thickness was 45mm, and the protrusion of the front side was 30mm. I chose this thickness value based on the results of my research on the topic, my experience with concrete was small, so I thought it would be better to rely on someone else's. I am sure that at will homemade you can make it thinner, but then you will need to add something like fiberglass to the mixture.

Next, we mark the inner contour of the formwork, which corresponds to the dimensions of the countertop, and apply the previously cut melamine strips along its outer perimeter. Then we fix them with clamps and fasten them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them, because we do not want the melamine to expand from screwing in the screws. And yet these holes need to be channeled, plus this action will appear later.

We glue the caps of the self-tapping screws with tape so that when disassembling the formwork there are no difficulties if a solution gets into these places.

Step 2: Edge Guiding with Silicone Sealant

Having assembled the walls of the formwork, we proceed to sealing the perimeter. Uses for this silicone sealant too much of course, but the other way I found was to use soapy water and rags. The inseam matches the top edge of the table top, so find something to match the edge you want, in my case it was a rounded marker cap. Be sure to make a silicone "bevel" around the entire inner perimeter, as you will not even believe how clearly all sorts of chips and bumps are visible on the concrete.

After the sealant has completely dried (24 hours is enough), wipe the entire inner surface formwork, this will help in the future easier to "release" the concrete homemade.

Step 3: mixing and pouring the mortar

Well, now it's time to mix the solution. For this I used a high-strength mixture from the nearest hardware store. In all the videos I watched, either Quickrete was used, but I do not think that it is found in our area, or the brand was not mentioned at all. Any cement other than a fast setting cement is fine, I believe.

When mixing the mortar, do not fill in water in excess of the necessary, excess moisture significantly reduces the strength of the concrete. First portions brain solution it is necessary to "drive" into the corners of the countertop, since if the mixture in them is "overdried", then they will serve you not so much as you expect.

Step 4: Reinforcement and vibration

Let's start strengthening brainwashing, that is, we add reinforcing elements to the poured solution, for this I would like to use a piece of metal mesh instead of cellular strips. I, again, did some research on how reinforcing bars are used in concrete products to increase strength, and this helped me understand where these very bars should be placed. Therefore, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the video that helped me.

After reinforcement, we again proceed to vibrate the poured solution. I did it for an hour with the same mallet, and this method worked perfectly, but you are free to do as you like. The main thing is to walk over the entire area of the formwork.

During the vibration of the solution, you will observe how air bubbles rise from it, which then burst, and the resulting voids are filled with a solution, which is what we need. When this "bubble" brain process end, vibration can be stopped.

Step 5: Covering the formwork

On this stage future braintop should be covered with something in order to thereby preserve enough high humidity and prevent too fast drying solution. After that, we give the craft 4 days to harden, it does not take longer, but during this time the solution should be wet. Take up reading at this time if you still doubt that this is really interesting material for brain-making.

Step 6: Removing the formwork and flipping the tabletop

After 4 days, we remove the formwork, by the way, thanks to the olive oil, it should come off easily.

As soon as I broke the water layer under the concrete (at this stage, this is the lower side) using a metal spatula for this, it became possible to turn the tabletop face up. At 120 kilograms, it was not easy, but the water created a slight suction.

So, we turn the tabletop over, friends came to my aid for this, and after some small discussions and planning of actions, we did it. I advise you not to be heroic and just call someone for help.

Step 7: finishing the countertop

Now let the countertop dry again for 4 days, and then, before applying the topcoat, to check brainquality drying, place a piece of rubber on the countertop. And if after 2 hours there is a wet spot under it, then craft you need to give more time to dry.

Well, after complete drying, we do the finishing treatment of the countertop surface. So I applied 6 coats of topcoat to water based, starting with a 25% concentration of the first layers and going to 100% of the last two. The low concentration of the first layers helps the coating penetrate deeper into the concrete, thereby improving its water repellency.

Step 8: frame installation

Well, the tabletop is ready, it remains to install it in its place.

Finally, I will say, when making a similar brainwashing plan the entire process from start to finish and have an idea of what you are doing at each step. But most importantly, start the process itself!

That's all, and if I could, then you can!