How to remove resin from a board yourself

A CONSTRUCTION EXPERT TELLS ABOUT WHAT SURPRISE WOODEN FRAMES CAN OFFER A DEVELOPER AND HOW TO GET OUT OF A DIFFICULT SITUATION.

We love wooden houses. Almost all country buildings are filled with wood products. We like the tree for beautiful view, freshness and pleasant smell, affordable price and many other valuable qualities.

However, he also has weak sides: tendency to rot and defeat tree mushrooms, excessive release of resin from wood coniferous species, especially pine and spruce. Subject to all technological rules fungal damage can be avoided, but resin in wood can appear in the most unexpected ways. We encountered this phenomenon quite unexpectedly.

TROUBLE CAME FROM WHERE WE WERE NOT EXPECTED!

For country house Large wooden windows and doors with double glazed windows were ordered. Previously, we studied both the manufacturer’s samples and even ready-made installed window blocks in a residential building that had been in use for several years.

There were no quality issues. Under a layer of clear varnish, the pine window units looked flawless. It was considered unnecessary to overpay for oak structures.

Chose for the house Brown color window blocks and doors. Looking ahead, let's say that this was our first mistake.

The beautiful window units were installed in September. Until next summer the windows did not cause any problems. But with the onset of hot summer, paint blistering on the surface of the frames was discovered on the south side of the house, which immediately caused concern.

A few days later paintwork resin began to appear. And there were at least two dozen such areas on window blocks. Initially beautiful windows immediately lost sight. What to do?

We urgently called a contractor who manufactured and installed our window units. A company representative immediately stated that this was the first case of such a defect.

After removing the paintwork, resin pockets and areas of wood heavily impregnated with resin were discovered in areas with resin. In the sun, a dark brown surface warms up more than a light one, which contributes to the release of resin from the wood.

REPAIR OF RESIN POCKETS

In the fall, after most of the resin had flowed out of the wood over the summer months, we began repair work. After removing paint from the defective areas of the window frames, we identified up to two dozen resin pockets and three areas with tar. It was necessary to somehow remove the resin from the wood, otherwise it would constantly be released and destroy the paint coating.

Problem solved mechanically: a section of wood together with a resin pocket was cut out to a depth of up to 5 mm. Then the recess was sealed with a so-called boat - an insert made of dry, non-resinized wood, installed with glue. We made all this by hand with single resin pockets.

After sealing the resin pockets, we began to eliminate the resins. These are volumetric defects, and the tarred areas must be repaired with a continuous layer of clean wood. To do this, the front sections of the frames with tars had to be cut to a depth of 3-5 mm using wide chisels and sandpaper.

Inserts made of healthy wood were tightly fitted and glued onto these cleaned areas. After the glue has dried window frames sanded and thoroughly treated with acetone to remove resin residues, and then the repaired areas of the frames were thoroughly washed hot water with soap.

Now we could begin to restore the paint layer. The areas to be repaired were plastered with finely dispersed putty. Then they carefully sanded, primed and painted in two layers.

TWO OR THREE LAYER FINISH

I had to paint it by hand, with a small roller and brushes. It was not possible to achieve high-quality painting the first time. I had to sand it down and repaint it. Some areas were painted well the second time, and some - the third. But perseverance brought the desired result. The repaired areas became practically indistinguishable. True, doubts remained: how would the renovated places behave next season? Will the resin come to the surface again? But no, a summer inspection showed that the resin had not leaked anywhere through the barrier of healthy wood. The windows were saved.

IF YOU MAKE FURNITURE

Using the example of resin in wooden windows I wanted to show how important it is to carefully choose wood for furniture and wooden products. It is necessary to carefully select the material, sorting out all the blanks with resin pockets, and even more so with tar.

Lining and floorboards should also be sorted before use. Sealing resin pockets and especially resin holes is a very labor-intensive job, so it is better to use boards with such defects. rough work.

IF YOU ARE BUILDING A LOOGUE

In houses with log houses made of timber or rounded logs, there are also resin pockets and even tars. The problem is that GOST 8486-86 “Softwood lumber. Specifications» allows the presence of resin pockets even in lumber of the highest (selected grade) on any one-meter section in the amount of 1 piece. length no more than 50 mm. In lumber of 1st and 2nd grades, 2 and 4 pockets are allowed in any one-meter section along the entire length of the workpiece. Therefore, in a contract for the construction of a house made of timber or rounded logs Special attention should be given to resin defects.

Of course, there is practically no spruce and pine wood without resin pockets, but let them be as in a selected type of wood - few and small in size.

As a consolation to homeowners who already have log houses with resin pockets or tars, I want to say: wood with resin is more durable, and the smell of resin containing many essential oils, is not only pleasant, but also useful.

RESIN POCKETS IN WOOD THERE ARE CALLED CAVITIES OR INSIDE THE ANNUAL LAYERS. OR BETWEEN THEM. FILLED WITH RESIN DURING THE LIFE OF THE TREE.
WITH GRAINS THE AREAS OF WOOD THAT ARE ABSOLUTELY IMPREGNATED WITH RESIN ARE CALLED. FORMED DUE TO WOUNDING CONIFEROUS TRUNKS. CONTAINING RESIN CUTES AND RESIN CELLS. RESIN ACCUMULATES A LOT ON SUCH AREAS OF WOOD AND REMAINS THERE FOREVER.

REMOVAL OF RESIN POCKETS IN WOOD - VIDEO

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High content of natural resins, thanks to which wood coniferous trees less vulnerable to rot, mold and bark beetles, which determines the popularity of using these species in construction. However, this property is also a disadvantage. Softwoods, especially freshly cut ones, tend to release resin, which makes it very difficult to treat the surface of the wood, since the resin is very sticky to everything that comes into contact with it.

In addition, the resin area darkens. Such unexpected releases of resin (resin) force additional work to remove this resin from the surface. Painting a place with resin does not work well, and sometimes a layer of varnish is not applied at all.

Resin – it is a heterogeneous mixture of resin acids, fatty acids, esters of these acids, sterols, alcohols, waxes and resenes. The resin content in coniferous wood is associated with the physiological processes of their respiration and growth. It has been experimentally proven that the content of the essential extract is maximum in autumn-winter and minimum in spring-summer, since the resin is consumed during intensive plant growth.

Here are several ways to eliminate resin drips on the finished product.

Removal of tar is carried out only after grinding the surface. This is due to the fact that this process is carried out only to a depth of 1-2 mm. Upon subsequent heating, even after applying the paint coating, resin may appear.

Carrying out degumming using chemicals does not provide a complete guarantee that resin will not subsequently appear on the coating.

An effective resin remover is a mixture consisting of 25 g liquid soap, dissolved in 1 l hot water. Add 50 ml of ammonia to the resulting solution while stirring.

1. Use of solvents.

The following are used as resin solvents:

turpentine;
alcohol;
refined gasoline or white spirit;
nitro solvent.
acetone;

These products quickly dissolve the resin and easily evaporate, but do not affect the appearance of the wood and, most importantly, do not leave any signs of processing. Using the above means they process large areas timber surface. The final cleaning procedure is rinsing with ordinary warm water.

2. Use of alkaline solutions.

An alkaline composition can be used to remove resin from the surface of the timber. Alkalis are used for degumming large surfaces. From available means, you can use solutions of soda and potash to remove resin and resin from the surface of the timber. The mixture is prepared as follows:

Dissolve 50 g of potash or 50 g of soda in 1 liter of hot water and add 250 ml of acetone;

25 g of caustic soda per 0.5 liter of cold water and 250 ml of acetone.

These solutions are used to remove resin from the surface before processing; they cannot be used when processing already painted parts, and not with finished products. It is important to remember that it is very difficult to remove alkalis from the grooves between the crowns of a log house. Remaining solutions destroy the paint coating when crystals form.

3. Use of ammonia-containing solutions.

Ammonia is one of the effective means used to dissolve resin. His distinctive feature- no traces of surface treatment. It is diluted with acetone, applied 2-3 times to resin drips and rubbed with a brush or brush until foam forms. After this, after 20 minutes, wash off the foam with water.

It is better to treat tars with any alkalis while hot. Alkalies must be applied with any brushes other than metal brushes.

The resulting foam is rubbed over the surface and the saponified resin residues are washed away. big amount water. To completely remove the remaining alkali remaining in the grooves between the rims, it is washed out with a solution acetic acid in a ratio of 1:50 (acid is poured into water, and not vice versa).

The acetic acid solution is applied with a sponge, hands must be protected rubber gloves. Then the entire surface is washed off with water. Re-application of paint and varnish coatings is carried out only after the wood has completely dried.

We hope these tips will help remove resin on wooden surfaces?

P.S.: Using dried wood in drying kilns partially removes the resin. Cutting out parts of blanks with resin from lamellas when making laminated veneer lumber is a more radical solution to get rid of this wood defect. In practice, it is impossible to completely remove the cause of resin secretion!

Your heart skips a beat the moment you discover tree sap on your car, not only because your shiny car is now dirty, but also because of the prospect of the work it will take to remove the sap. Removing tar from your car is a tedious process that can scratch your car's paint, and you won't be able to get rid of it with a regular car wash. However, there are several ways to remove tar from a car that will make this difficult task much easier. Use one of the methods below to restore your car's clean, shiny finish.

Steps

Washing the car with soap and hot water

If possible, wash your car immediately. The longer the resin or any other similar substance (which also includes bird droppings or insects) remain on the surface of the vehicle, the more difficult it is to remove them later. Quickly taken measures contribute to the use of the least amount of effort and lead to best success in obtaining a shining car exterior.

Rinse your car with clean water. By rinsing the car in this way, you will remove most of the dirt and see places that will need to be given special attention in the future.

Take the time to thoroughly wash your car, even if the tree resin is not all over the surface. You will get even more satisfaction after removing the resin when your car comes out clean and shiny at the end of the process. Moreover, all the accessories to start washing are already ready for use.

Wipe the surface with a microfiber cloth soaked in hot, soapy water. Use hot water as hot as possible, as the adhesion force of the resin is weakened by hot water.
- Before using other tar removal methods, try cleaning your car with very hot water first. If the resin is removed, you are done. If there is still resin remaining, you will have a clean surface on which to try other methods.
- Wash with a clean cloth and rinse frequently to remove any dirt or tree sap. Using a dirty rag will only spread the mess all over the surface of your car.
Rinse the surface several times. Having the area rinsed and cleared will allow you to see if you have done a good job, or if you need to apply even more force to remove the resin.

Dry and wax your car's surface immediately after removing the resin. You've removed the resin, but at the same time you've also removed the wax that protected the car's surface. Apply in the usual way wax your car or read articles on how to wax your car if you haven’t done this before.

Rub in a circular motion over the resin to remove it from the surface. Do this without fanaticism, unless you want to grind the resin over the entire surface of the car.

Finish the process by washing the car and waxing it. Repeated washing will help remove any remaining resin or solvent used. Once you're sure your car is shining in all its glory again, it's a good idea to renew its protective wax coating.

Coniferous wood differs from deciduous trees in its high content of natural resins and is therefore resistant to the formation of rot and mold. It retains its characteristics long time and is in demand in various industries construction.

However, along with the undoubted advantages, resinous wood also has some disadvantages. It is sticky and does not interact well with paints and varnishes, which greatly complicates processing.

How to remove resin from boards? There are several ways to do this, and the result will depend on the type and effectiveness of the cleanser.

Use of solvents

From the surface coniferous wood Resin is removed using the following substances:

acetone;
white spirit or refined gasoline;
turpentine;
nitro solvent;
alcohol

They do not damage the boards and quickly disappear after cleaning is completed. This method is advisable to use for processing a significant volume of wood. The remaining solvent is washed off with warm water.

Use of alkali and ammonia

Resin is removed from the boards using alkali solutions, and the surface must be unpainted. Otherwise, the remnants of cleaning compounds dry out and crystallize, destroying the paintwork. To prepare an alkaline mixture, dissolve 50 g of soda or potash in 1 liter of water, adding 250 ml of acetone to the container. When using caustic soda, 0.25 g of powder is placed in a solvent, which serves as cold water in a volume of 0.5 ml and 250 ml of acetone. During processing, the alkali must be hot, and afterward its residues are neutralized by pouring plenty of water and a solution of acetic acid in a ratio of 1:50.

Another cleaning option is to remove the resin with a mixture of ammonia and acetone, applied with a brush. After 20 minutes, the resulting foam is washed off, and the boards are rinsed with a large amount of clean water. To achieve maximum effect, the procedure is repeated 2-3 times.

Removing resin from the surface pine boards performed after thorough grinding of the surface. The need for such treatment is due to the penetration of cleaning compounds into the wood no deeper than 1-2 mm. With further heating, the resin may appear even if the surface of the boards is coated with paint and varnish.

Drying the boards in special chambers will help partially remove the unwanted heterogeneous mixture of fatty and resin acids, waxes, alcohols and other components.

Wood is one of the most magnificent and safest building materials, if carried out competently wood surface treatment. Treatment wooden surfaces important for protecting wood from dirt, moisture, various damages and scratches. The tree is afraid of the light and chemical substances. Professional wood surface treatment will allow the tree to serve you faithfully for decades.

If you use softwood for carpentry, it is vital to get rid of the resin contained in the wood. The resin has properties that make processing very difficult:

sticks better than any coating;
the place where this substance has accumulated often becomes dark;
The coloring of the area containing the resin is very uneven and poor.

Resin removal is carried out only after preliminary grinding. This process is carried out only to a depth of 1-2 mm. When softwood wood products are heated, even after coating, resin may appear. Detarring chemical reagents does not provide a 100% guarantee that the resin will not subsequently break through to the surface.

Large tarred areas are simply cut out with a knife and the pothole is filled with putty and sawdust or a piece of wood of the same shade is glued in.

A whole arsenal of resin-dissolving agents is known:

alcohol
acetone
light gasoline
White Spirit
turpentine
nitro solvent

These products will dissolve the resin and dissolve almost instantly. They do not affect the wood and do not leave behind unnecessary troubles. With their help, large surfaces are treated, and then washed with ordinary warm water.

Alkalis saponify the resin. They are also widely used for detarring large areas.

Ammonia is the single best thing safe remedy to dissolve the resin. It must be diluted with acetone and applied generously 2-3 times to the required areas. After this, they are thoroughly brushed until foam forms. After 15 minutes, wash off the composition easily with warm water.

The most effective use of a product that consists of 20-30g of sound or liquid soap or neutral wood soap, which must be dissolved in 1 liter of hot water. 50 cm 3 of ammonia is introduced into the resulting solution, stirring constantly.

Tars can only be removed by treatment with hot alkalis. Apply them liberally to the wood with a non-metallic brush. After 5 minutes, repeat the procedure. After another five, rub the wood vigorously with a brush until abundant foam forms on the surface. The saponified resin is removed with plenty of water using a brush or sponge. To completely remove alkali, treat the wood with a solution of acetic acid in a ratio of 1:50; when preparing the solution, pour the acid into water, not water into the acid. Be sure to wear protective gloves before applying the product with a sponge. Then rinse the entire surface and blot with a sponge.

Combined resin solvents act as both alkalis and solvents.

After washing off the resin solvent, it is necessary to dry the wood for 5 hours in a room with good ventilation.