The popularity of shower cabins is growing every year. The ability to significantly save space, a large number of additional options and “ fashion design”, which often makes the shower stall the main decoration of the bathroom, have become the main reasons why shower cabins have become an integral attribute of many bathrooms, in some cases even “displacing” the “classic bathtubs” from them. Since the shower cabin is a complex plumbing fixture that is connected not only to the water supply and sewerage system, but also to the electrical network, its installation requires a fairly large amount of knowledge and skills. Although this does not mean that it is necessary to invite professional craftsmen to install a shower stall. It is quite possible to solve this problem on your own, following a few rules and recommendations. So, we install the shower cabin with our own hands.
Preparation of materials and tools
The first step is to check the availability of all parts of the shower cabin, as well as prepare the materials and tools necessary for installation.
The shower cabin itself, as a rule, consists of the following elements:
- Pallet;
- Side walls;
- Roof;
- Doors;
- Front apron;
- Side racks.
In addition to the main parts, the shower cabin is equipped with all the necessary fittings and fasteners. But, nevertheless, we recommend that you prepare several additional washers, rubber gaskets and dowel nails in advance.
In addition to the cabin itself, for installation you will need an adjustable wrench, a level, straight and Phillips screwdrivers different sizes, hammer drill or electric drill, construction knife, sealant, fum tape or tow.
Pre-assembly
Before you begin installing the cabin, you must thoroughly study the instructions that came with it. And even if you didn’t have any questions while reading it, we strongly recommend that you carry out a test assembly of the cabin before installing it in the bathroom.
This will not only allow you to clearly understand the assembly principle of the entire structure, but also make sure that all (even the smallest) parts are present, check the quality of holes and fittings, as well as identify defective spare parts and replace them in a timely manner. Of course, preliminary assembly will take you some time, but it will allow you to avoid many “unpleasant surprises” during final installation.
Naturally, during pre-assembly you should not “tightly” tighten the mounting bolts and nuts, or use sealant.
Pallet assembly
Shower tray assembly
Assembling a shower cabin begins with assembling and installing the tray. It should be assembled in accordance with the instructions, but, as a rule, it is done as follows:
At the corners of the pallet, studs are attached, onto which a cross-shaped support is installed. The legs of the pallet, which can be adjusted, are attached to the ends of the studs or to special pins on the support. In addition, an additional fifth leg is installed in the center of the support cross.
In some cabin models, the support crosspiece is additionally attached to the pallet using self-tapping screws. For this purpose, it is advisable to use only those self-tapping screws that were supplied with the cabin, since they are guaranteed not to fit in length and will not go through the pallet.
The next stage of assembling the pallet is the installation of the drain siphon.
Shower siphon
To do this, simply unscrew the top fixing nut from the neck of the siphon and push the freed pipe through the hole in the bottom of the siphon and screw it into place.
You don’t need any special wrenches for this—the plastic nut is screwed in “all the way” by hand. To ensure a tight connection, do not forget to install a rubber gasket between the nut and the tray (it should be supplied with the shower cabin). If, after checking for leaks (to do this, just pour a little water into the pan) a leak is detected, it must be repaired using silicone sealant.
And the final part of assembling the pallet is attaching the brackets for the decorative apron (if provided for by the design of the shower stall).
Pallet installation
When the tray is assembled, it can be installed in the place chosen for the shower stall.
Installation of the pallet takes place in several stages.
First, the pallet must be leveled horizontally and vertically. To do this you need to use a regular rack level.
It is placed on the edge of the pallet, after which, by adjusting the height of the legs using special screws, the edge matches the horizon level.
When this is done, it is necessary to make markings for attaching the fixing hooks. To do this, use a marker or pencil to outline the bottom edge of the pallet adjacent to the wall. On this line, in the area of the corners of the pallet, holes are made into which special fixing hooks are screwed. The ends of the hooks should be left down. Now you can put the pallet in place, and then secure it by lifting the ends of the hooks.
When installing the pan, check that the free end of the siphon is securely connected to the sewer drain.
All that remains is to carefully “silicone” the joint between the pallet and the wall, after which the installation of the pallet can be considered complete.
Front apron
There is no point in paying much attention to attaching the front apron - it is attached in accordance with the instructions using special clip-on clips or ordinary self-tapping screws.
As is the case with additional fastening lower support, we recommend using only the self-tapping screws supplied with the cabin.
Installing curtains
Before installation, you need to inspect the glass curtains for damage, and also decide where they are top and where they are bottom.
If there are no markings, the upper part of the curtains can be identified by the presence of mounting holes.
Now we insert the glass into the guide rails, having first applied a layer of silicone sealant to the grooves. The glass is secured to the guides using clamping bolts.
The finished frame with glass can be installed on a pallet.
We install the assembled curtain vertically (check using a level or plumb line) and draw it with a marker or pencil vertical line according to her leading edge. On this line we attach the connecting profile using self-tapping screws.
Before finally tightening the screws, coat the joint between the profile and the wall with sealant. We immediately remove excess material using a dry cloth.
We attach the lower guide for the cabin door to the pallet. We also apply a layer of sealant between it and the pan.
We install the curtains and fix them on the bottom rail and side profiles using self-tapping screws.
It is better to tighten the screws after they are all installed.
It remains to install the upper guide arc. This completes the installation of the curtains.
Installation of walls and rear panel
Shower cabin with rear panel
Walls and a rear shower panel are not present in all models of shower cabins, but, nevertheless, we will briefly consider their installation. The walls are assembled in the same way as curtains on vertical posts and horizontal profiles.
The side walls are attached to the corner guides, pallet and wall using self-tapping screws. When they are installed between them they fasten back panel.
Connection to the rear panel of water using flexible hoses, as well as power supply (if provided by the design) is made before its final installation.
Doors
The upper rollers must be installed on the shower doors before installation.
If the lower rollers are equipped with special springs, you can immediately install them. The roller mounting bolts should not be completely tightened.
If the bottom rollers are "spring loaded" then they simply "snap into the bottom slot". If not, then first they are installed in the groove and only after that they are fixed to the doors with fastening bolts.
We check the doors for tightness and, if necessary, adjust them using eccentric bolts. When the doors are adjusted, you can finally tighten the fasteners of the upper and lower rollers.
More and more people are getting rid of heavy, large bathtubs and installing shower cabins in their place - this is a truly beneficial solution in many aspects. Such cabins make it possible to save space in apartments and private houses.
The existing range of shower cabins is quite wide, but simply purchasing one or another model you like is not enough. It still needs to be properly assembled, installed and connected to communications. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to install a purchased shower cabin with your own hands. In fact, it is possible, you just need to have the desire and minimal skills in the plumbing field.
Features of cabin types
All modern variations According to the type of design, shower cabins can be divided into open and closed. Open ones are almost always cheaper than closed ones. In addition to everything for open models It is imperative to have high-quality waterproofing in the bathroom. It is worth considering each type in more detail - this will help you make your choice.
Open
Open showers are integrated into the bathroom layout. Such designs are also called shower enclosures, since they can only be installed in a corner. Sometimes they consist of almost nothing but transparent doors; not all models have a tray (if there is no tray, you will also have to install a so-called drain ladder).
Steam from hot water When operating such a cabin, it emits in large quantities, and accordingly, the humidity in the room will be high, and this necessitates the need for high-quality waterproofing. In bathrooms with such a cabin, you should place only moisture-resistant furniture.
Closed
Closed cabins are completely self-contained boxes; in addition to doors and a tray, they also have side and back walls, as well as the top cover. This design can even be installed in the center of the bathroom if there is enough space. Closed cabins can be of different sizes - from 0.7x0.7 meters to 2x2.1 meters. It is convenient to place the smallest ones in small apartments.
Closed oval or square cabins, unlike corner ones, are isolated from the general microclimate of the bathroom, and this can be considered a plus.
Some models have one or more additional options, and this attracts a certain category of buyers. We are talking about options such as:
- aromatherapy;
- hydromassage;
- Charcot's shower.
Sometimes the factory equipment of enclosed shower cabins even includes a radio. They are equipped with top and side lighting, a mirror, shelves and other useful devices.
Choosing an installation location
Installation of a shower cabin cannot be carried out without a preliminary and balanced selection of a location for it. Must be nearby electrical network, water supply and drainage. The distant location of these important communications can result in additional hassle and expense.
It is advisable that next to the cabin there is also vent(hood) - this will reduce or reduce to almost zero the accumulation of condensation on the walls.
Before securing the booth, you should pay attention to the surface of the floor - the smoother it is, the better. If the condition of the floor leaves much to be desired, you will have to start leveling it or adjusting the height of the cabin legs. The walls near which the cabin is supposed to be placed must also be level. If the angle between the walls is not 90 degrees, the installer will definitely encounter a problem such as a gap between the walls and the cabin. In most cases, such a gap can be sealed with sealant.
Assembly order
The shower enclosure is delivered from the store disassembled and in packaging. To make it easier to assemble the structure yourself, all components are carefully sorted and laid out by the manufacturer.
In addition, the kit necessarily contains instructions, and it contains a clear drawing or diagram from which you can understand the procedure for assembling the kit. IN general view this order can be represented as follows.
First, the pallet is assembled. Actually, this involves attaching legs to it (so that it stands level and does not have the opportunity to wobble), carefully installing it in the selected area and inserting a sewer pipe. If the pallet included in the kit seems too fragile, it must be additionally reinforced with a frame.
The wall functioning system in many models may seem complicated. But in fact, even a not very experienced home craftsman can carry out the installation and combine all the tenons and grooves. After this, the walls are simply secured with connecting bolts. When installing the top panel (if there is one), it is important to assemble it in advance and ensure yourself the convenience of working at a significant height by taking a stepladder.
The installation of doors and small fittings is generally similar for all models, but there are some nuances. The design of the guides and rollers, the shape of the doors may vary (they are not only semicircular, but also straight).
Sewage connection
High-quality instructions for correct assembly shower cabin usually contains information on how to equip a drain and install a siphon. So how is this done?
First with drain pipe deleted protective film. Then a pipe with a diameter of 4 cm with a special adapter is supplied to the installation site of the pallet. The adapter must have sufficient rigidity - this will increase the functionality of the sewer system and there will be no stagnation in the corrugation area.
Next you need to lift the back shower tray and lay the cabin hose on the drain elbow of the shower from below. The other end of this hose should be secured to the drain. Its edge, reinforced with fiber, must be attached to the side nipple on the drain elbow.
Now all that remains is to place the tray on the place prepared for the shower stall and check whether the hose or connections are leaking anywhere. The test is simple - open the taps completely and let the water flow. In this case, no puddles should form on the floor, and the drainage should be fast and of high quality.
Connection to water supply
As a rule, the shower cabin comes with two flexible hoses (for hot and cold water), it is with their help that you need to make the connection. In general, the procedure is quite simple. First you need to turn off the water supply risers and open all the taps fully, due to this the pressure in the water supply decreases.
Advice! If the diameters do not match, experts advise using the appropriate adapter.
It is necessary to apply lubricant and sealant (FUM) to the threads of the installed fitting. After this, the flexible hoses should be connected to the water pipes (hot and cold) and secured with an adjustable wrench. Now there is only one more action left - turn on the water and check if the system is tight.
Electrical wiring in the shower stall
As a rule, expensive shower cabins with various options require electricity. And there is an unshakable principle that in this case should also be observed: elements of water communication and elements of the electrical network are placed separately.
By default, you cannot connect the shower cabin to the electrical circuit that already exists. The cabin must be properly powered; for this procedure you will need electrical installation tools and materials: double-insulated copper cable, a panel with an RCD (residual current circuit breaker), a moisture-resistant IP44 socket.
Note! In some cases, the manufacturer requires grounding of the pan (the presence or absence of such a requirement must be clarified in the instructions). In this case, the pan is grounded by a potential equalization system.
Besides, in apartment panel It is advisable to install a separate machine with a power of 25 Amps and a power of 5000 Watts. It is this device that most closely matches the maximum electric current in the cabin. An RCD or differential type circuit breaker is installed in pairs with circuit breaker. Such measures are necessary to protect against electric shock and prevent failure of the shower structure as a result of a short circuit.
Ceiling panel and fittings
The ceiling panel (or simply the roof) of a shower stall may contain several optional elements:
- shower head;
- fan;
- backlight;
- speaker
This panel is assembled in advance, and then, ready-made, it is fixed on a special support formed using side panels and the door frame. For a more reliable connection of joints, you can use special lubricants and sealing materials. Treatment with them will help prevent the specific humming of the shower stall when certain options are turned on.
Door hardware is usually installed last. For this operation to be successful, you need to perform a number of actions.
At the bottom and upper parts The doorway is installed with the rollers included in the kit and turned to the maximum. The door perimeter is finished with sealing material. After this, the door (usually it is made of tempered glass or fiberglass) can be installed in its place in the overall structure.
Now it is necessary to determine the optimal position of the door by adjusting the upper roller mechanisms. The screws that secure the rollers here are covered with special decorative plugs. Finally, the rest of the small fittings are installed: handles, mirror, and so on.
This completes the installation itself. But in order to be completely confident in your new shower stall, it is worth carrying out a final check of all components. The connections must be tight, and the pallet should not creak during operation (if it does creak, the legs under the pallet are adjusted again). Only after this the booth can be used.
A shower cabin measuring 90x90 cm is an excellent option for installation in the washroom of a bathhouse. Compact dimensions allow the design to fit seamlessly even into the room small sizes, while the space available inside the cabin will be quite enough for comfortable water procedures.
Shower cabins 90x90 cm are in stable demand among buyers. Manufacturers react to this state of affairs and, in turn, regularly update their model series, offering consumers both budget designs without additional functions and elite hydraulic boxes equipped with many useful options.
Shower cabins can be equipped with very low (on average up to 8-10 cm), simply low (from 10-15 to 20-25 cm) and deep (on average 30-40 cm) trays. It is with the features and advantages of the last of the listed options that you are invited to familiarize yourself while studying the information below. Additionally, you will consider the procedure for self-installation of a 90x90 cm shower cabin with a deep tray.
shower cabin 90x90
Advantages and disadvantages of deep shower trays
Let's start with the pros and cons of products such as deep shower trays. It would seem, why incur additional expenses when buying this kind of product? Do they have advantages over lower and budget counterparts? Of course there is.
Firstly, the presence of a deep tray contributes to more intense heating internal space shower cabin. The materials used to make shower trays are mostly characterized by excellent thermal conductivity, heat up fairly quickly and retain the heat given off by water for a long time (with rare exceptions). In view of this, a cabin with a deep tray will be as warm as possible and generally comfortable to be in.
Secondly, the deep tray can be adapted for a bath, even a very small one. To do this, just close the drain and fill the pan with water. Of course, you won’t be able to relax comfortably while lying in a container with an area of up to 1 m2, but you can have a great time in a sitting position. And if you have a cabin with a deep tray, you don’t need to buy a baby bath – an additional plus for families with children.
A deep tray is an excellent replacement for a small bathtub
In addition to this, deep shower trays also have their own weak sides. As noted, for the purchase of such a product, other equal conditions will have to be allocated more money, rather than purchasing a structure with a more modest depth.
In addition to additional financial costs, it is also worth noting the following disadvantages of the option under consideration:
With information on existing forms and materials for the manufacture of showers and cabin walls, additional functions and other important related nuances you can find in.
Below you can read the instructions for self-installation shower cabin dimensions 90x90 cm with a deep tray. The information received will allow you to refuse the services of third-party contractors or to monitor the correctness of their work and its final quality.
Instructions for installing a shower cabin
If you bought a high-quality shower cabin from some German, Italian or simply certified domestic brand, it will probably come with detailed installation instructions with beautiful diagrams, explanations for each item and comments regarding various nuances. If you decided to save money on purchasing a cabin for installation in a bathhouse’s washing room (and this is often how things are in practice), as a result of which the decision was made to buy an inexpensive Chinese cabin, opening the manufacturer’s instructions, you will either not find any text translated into Russian in it language, or it will be a low-quality machine translation in an extremely compressed form, literally like this:
- unpack the cabin;
- assemble the pallet;
- connect the siphon;
- assemble the walls;
- install the roof;
- connect the water and use it.
Of course, there can be no talk of any independent installation in accordance with such instructions.
By the way, since we are talking about the siphon. Representatives of the most budget price segment of shower cabins are mostly equipped not with a full-fledged siphon, but with its simplified analogue, which can hardly be called reliable, high-quality and durable. If this is the situation in your case, we recommend that you initially buy and install a normal, high-quality siphon so that you don’t have to replace it in the near future.
Note! We will not consider the installation process in detail, because... information on this matter has already been covered in detail within the framework of the relevant instructions. You can follow the provisions of the mentioned manual - for a cabin with a deep tray, the procedure will remain the same.
Prices for a siphon for a shower cabin
siphon for shower cabin
We will install such a pallet.
The length of the straight edges is 90 cm. The rounded shape is, in our opinion, more attractive, which is why we chose it. In general, the installation of rectangular and any other pallets is carried out in the same way.
In addition to a new siphon (if needed), you will need to prepare following tools and accessories:
- sharp knife;
- gloves;
- several clean rags;
- soap;
- sealant;
- Phillips screwdriver.
spanners;
building level;
Additionally, washers with M16 holes may be required.
Note! Until the installation of various additional devices (rain shower, cascade shower, lighting, etc.), the procedure for assembling the shower cabin remains the same, regardless of the model. We will not provide recommendations for arranging such devices, because... the features of their installation and connection may vary depending on the model and are described in detail in the accompanying instructions (frankly budget cabins are not equipped with additional devices, but reputable manufacturers take care of their customers and cover in detail the nuances of installing premium equipment).
Table. Installation of a shower cabin 90x90 cm with a deep tray
| Work stage | Description |
|---|---|
| We check that all the elements are intact and that there are no cracks, chips, extra holes or other damage. The integrity of the glass can be checked even before unpacking the cabin - to do this, just gently shake the box. The presence of damage will be indicated by a corresponding characteristic sound. | |
| We open the box with fittings, fasteners and other additional elements. What and in what quantity should be included in the kit is specified in the manufacturer’s instructions. | |
| Having made sure that the package is complete and everything is intact, we proceed to assembling the pallet. Turn it over and attach the legs. We do this in the order described below: - put on gloves; - take long hairpins; - screw them straight all the way into the seats specially designed for this (provided for in the design of the pallet). It will not be possible to mount the legs strictly vertically, no matter how hard you try. And there is no need for such a situation. |
|
| We screwed the studs. Now we follow this order: - screw the nuts from the kit onto the installed studs; - put washers on the screwed nuts; - install the legs from the kit. They look like square/rectangular tubes. |
|
| We study the structure of a short support. Our task is to find the welded nut on it. The central leg will be installed at this location. | |
| In the image, the arrow points to the welded cover mentioned in the previous paragraph, which should not come into contact with the surface of the shower container. Here you see correct option its installation. We proceed to install the specified leg in the previously loosened nut. We do the following: tighten the leg, put the washer on top, and then the lock nut until it stops. Afterwards we need to put on one more additional nut - it will take on the functions of a supporting lock nut for the mounted leg. | |
| Our task: to attract the beams from the kit to the pallet. For this we use self-tapping screws. In budget cabins, fastening is carried out to wooden blocks, hidden by the manufacturer using fiberglass. In more expensive models the composition of these elements may differ. In any case, we screw the screws exclusively into the protrusions, and not into the flat surface of the pallet. | |
| The supports and mounting bolts can only be tightened after screwing in the self-tapping screws (described in the paragraph above). Failure to comply with this rule will result in internal stresses and significant distortions, under the influence of which the screws will turn out. | |
| We came across a set that was “not the first freshness” - some areas were rusty. The problem was solved with the help of Hammerite paint (a composition with excellent properties that restores appearance metal surfaces and ensuring their protection against corrosion), painting problem areas in a couple of layers. You can use the product we recommend or purchase another composition with similar characteristics and a similar purpose. | |
| We align the legs. There is no need to tighten the locknuts too much - in the future you will still have to additionally tighten the elements in place. At the same stage of work, we need to mount plastic brackets with which the decorative screen of the pallet will be attached (in the case of your cabin, the order of attaching the screen may be slightly different, act according to the situation, any difficulties in at this stage usually does not occur). |
|
| The photo shows the mounted brackets with which the decorative screen will be attached. Many manuals advise at this same stage to level the pallet and attach the screen. We believe that it is not worth doing this - you will not be able to get to the opposite side of the cabin, and you will still have to do this. We recommend attaching the screen last - this way the product will remain intact, and it will be more convenient for you to connect the required communications and level the cabin correctly, that is, level. | |
| Armed with a level of suitable length, we align the legs in an equal plane. | |
| Included with our cabin was the so-called. “automatic siphon”, in practice it turned out to be a device for controlling the drainage of water (by foot). This product is convenient to use, but not very durable. We'll show you how to install it. In such a situation, we, as noted, would recommend that you immediately replace this miracle of Chinese thought with a better product. The outlet is inserted from the front side of the pan and tightened from the back edge using a gas wrench. Gaskets are included. If you don’t have a gas key, you can resort to the semi-extreme method we demonstrated in the photo. |
|
| We install the part of the siphon shown in the photo. The further connection diagram is standard: through corrugation and adapters (if necessary) to sewer pipe. All the nuances of this work are covered in detail in the previously mentioned article on connecting a siphon. | |
| The pallet is assembled. We temporarily set it aside and turn our attention to the fences. The glass in our cabin had no markings. If in your case the situation is similar, we find the top ourselves - you can recognize it by the presence of numerous holes. There will be no problems with determining the order of placement of the guides either: we place the thin one (we had figured cutouts along its edges) at the bottom, and the wide product at the top. The cabin glass is equipped with an edge, which, in turn, has grooves. We attach them to the arches of the fence, carefully sliding one element into the other. |
|
| Next we need to lift the glass a little and apply a silicone-based sealant. You can see in the photo how high to raise the glass being mounted and where to apply the product. Then you need to do the following: - lower the window; - tighten the screw on the presser foot; - remove any excess sealant that has come out, first with a finger dipped in a simple soap solution, and then with a clean rag. |
|
| The connection is made from below and from above. For fastening, we use self-tapping screws from the kit or independently purchased suitable products. |
|
| To improve the quality of the connection, we take a silicone seal and put it on the glass being installed. We place the material as a “petal” in inner side. It won't fit under the paw, so there's no need to try to put it there. There is also no need to apply a sealing solution. | |
| We apply sealant to the side of the container in the area where it will come into contact with the lower guide of the fence being mounted. We install fencing directly. Be careful: the recesses designed to allow water drainage should not be covered with a sealant. Important! At this stage of the work being performed, there is no need to attach anything to the container body with self-tapping screws. |
|
| We apply a sealing compound at the junction with the mounted panel (look at the photo). | |
| We apply sealant to the pallet of our cabin at the place where it subsequently joins the side panel. The previously mentioned drains are clearly visible in this image. Again, we do not seal them. | |
| The side panel frame is fixed to the wall using small self-tapping screws and washers. Normally, the manufacturer pre-cuts one side of the washers, which ensures a tighter fit. If this has not been done, you will have to be content with what you have. | |
| We successfully completed the installation of one of the side panels. This structural element, unlike the previously discussed wall, is attached to the cabin tray using self-tapping screws - appropriate holes are provided in the shower tank for such fastening. | |
| All actions are similar to those already discussed. | |
| We cover the place where the side and rear panels are joined with silicone sealant, which is already well known to us. |
|
| We fix the back panel of our shower cabin using self-tapping screws. Important! Often the holes don't line up the first time. In view of this, there is no need to tighten all the fasteners - leave a small gap to allow adjustment of the connections, and only after making sure that everything is fine, finally tighten the screws. The material used to make structures, especially in budget models, can easily be torn off and damaged, so be extremely careful |
|
| We have successfully installed the back panel. | |
| We are preparing for the upcoming arrangement of our cabin doors. We start by posting videos. The upper ones have adjustable design. We need to turn them up as much as possible. The design of the lower rollers of the cabin is push-type – the elements are pulled back during installation. We put seals on the edges of the installed cabin door. The seal placed outside is secured with the “petal” facing outwards. |
|
| After installing the doors, carefully tighten the rollers located at the top. Our task comes down to ensuring the level position of the doors and at the same time the correct closing of the door leaves. We mask the screws on the rollers using plastic plugs. |
|
| Our deep tray cabin has its own roof and, surprisingly for a budget model, is equipped with a rain shower, fan, lighting and speaker. As noted, additional elements are installed and connected in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. | |
| During fastening additional elements You may well find that some of the manufacturer's pre-prepared screw holes are not suitable for successfully accommodating fasteners. If this is the case in your case, the “inappropriate” screws will have to be screwed in like self-tapping screws through solid plastic. The roof will not suffer much from this. | |
| If your cabin design includes a speaker, coat the edges with silicone sealant, otherwise it will rattle. | |
| The roof was successfully installed. | |
| Handles and mirrors, all kinds of shelves and other related fittings - we install it all in its place. | |
| Before doing this, the following must be done: - communications are connected; - the shower tray has been leveled. The screen in most shower stall models is attached using some kind of clips. In your case, take stock of the situation. It may need to be screwed or secured in some other suitable way. There are no difficulties at this stage of work. The space between the bottom edge of the container and the floor can be blown out first polyurethane foam– the floor in the cabin will be warmer. |
|
| We successfully completed the installation of the shower cabin and very soon we will be able to put it into permanent use. Before this, all that remains is to carry out a test wash to make sure there are no leaks and the system is generally operating normally. We enter the cabin and observe the condition of the pallet. If crackling noises began to be heard, we made a mistake when installing the legs, installing them not in a single plane or not taking into account the curvature of the floor. We fix the problem by removing the decorative screen and adjusting the legs as needed. |
Good luck!
Video – Shower cabin 90x90 with deep tray
The second stage is assembling and checking the drainage system. Sometimes the installation of a shower stall is delayed after the first test, since the drain pipes supplied do not provide the proper level of sealing. We recommend replacing them, otherwise it will be impossible to use the cabin even if the seams are sealed.
If the sewage system is in order, then you can begin installing the walls and assembling the dome. Before carrying out work, you must check:
Quality of fastenings and hardware supplied by the manufacturer;
Operation of electrical systems;
The strength and material of the walls, the quality of the rails for sliding curtains.
Communication status
Before installing the shower cabin, you should check the placement of the socket, the possibility of supplying and draining water. For drainage, it is not enough to connect the pipes to the sewer; it is necessary to ensure correct angle pipe inclination. If the angle is not inclined enough, you can use a podium.
Another difficulty is that different manufacturers They place the water entry and exit points at different heights, so choosing a cabin is difficult. Our plumbers are well acquainted with the features of different brands, so they will efficiently complete any job.
Important nuances of installing showers
In some houses, due to the high location of the sewer system, you will have to make a guaranteed podium, in others you will have to additionally attach it to the wall, in others you will have to strengthen the floors before installing the cabin. Seeking help from professionals will allow you to avoid many mistakes, expenses and operational problems.
Electrical wiring installation
Wiring is necessary if your cab has a radio, ventilation, or other electrical components. In many cases, it is necessary to install grounding and a circuit breaker that will protect you and your equipment in the event of a voltage surge or damage to the wires.
This work will increase the cost of installing a shower stall, but since the bathroom is a constant contact with water and steam, electrical problems are unacceptable here.
Call a plumber to install a shower
Our shower installation specialist will come to you on the same day or the next day with necessary equipment: tools, additional materials, replaceable fasteners.
Experience shows that assembly carried out by our specialists takes half the time, reduces installation costs and makes it possible to comfortably use the shower cabin for many years. All services provided by the company are covered by a guarantee.
Time frame for installing a shower cabin in Moscow
Minimum time is two hours. Installation can take from several hours to several days. It depends on the cabin. Additional sealing, wall reinforcement and other work require two visits from specialists to check the quality of the sealant after drying.
Equipment Features
The cost of installing a shower cabin depends on the size of the bathroom. Assembling a large cabin requires the participation of two or three plumbing specialists, this also needs to be taken into account. Installation prices remain within 5-30% of equipment costs.
How much does it cost to install a shower cabin?
Prices start from 2-4 thousand rubles for simple equipment without electrics and additional options (hydromassage modules, steam generation).
Functional cabins are more difficult to install, longer and more expensive - the price can rise to 8 thousand rubles, taking into account the cost of fastening materials, if they are needed. How much does it cost to install a shower cabin? It all depends on the size and type of shower cabin, additional modules, the presence or absence of electrical modules, the type of curtains, the type of house.
Quality of cabins from different manufacturers
The price depends on the quality of the cabin itself and its manufacturer. When working with certain brands, we already know in advance that we will need to change hoses, buy additional hardware, and strengthen the cabin walls.
We will immediately notify you of additional costs if they arise. The cost of installing a shower cabin in the Plumbers Service company is lower than the cost of your nerves, time and safety! Contact us!
In this article, the site offers a look at the process of assembling and installing an acrylic bowl, walls and shower fittings. We brought detailed instructions and video tutorials for beginners. The article is a guide to assembling a standard hydrobox with side walls and additional equipment.
The shower stall is becoming more and more popular due to the lack of free space in apartment bathrooms and its versatility. Installing a shower cabin with your own hands is not difficult for someone who has basic skills in working with conventional tools. This work can be performed at different stages - for example, only installation, connection, laying water supply and sewerage, or all together.
These products have several degrees of difference, on which their price primarily depends. Below are their signs.
Pallet design
The pallet can be either built into the floor or external. In actual practice, 70% of installed pallets in apartments are external.
Presence of walls
Economy variants of shower cabins do not have factory rear and side walls - their function is performed by the walls of the bathroom, finished with waterproof material. Their installation is the simplest; you only need to install the tray and secure the door profile. For these products, installing a shower cabin with your own hands is not particularly difficult.
Models with walls are an independent structure made in the same style. They are more expensive due to more elements. In addition, their installation is more complex and requires precision and accuracy.
Optional equipment
Factory backsplashes provide the benefit of protecting the walls of the room, as well as a cavity in which auxiliary ducts and devices can be placed. The most advanced models are equipped with massage nozzles, various shower devices, fittings and electronic controls. Such cabins are called “hydroboxes” and they occupy the top positions in price.
How to install a shower cabin yourself. Operating procedure
Path from set of parts to cardboard box to a working device (device) consists of several stages.
“Stage zero” – preparation. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Determination of available pallet sizes and area.
- Determination of water supply and discharge points.
- Selecting a model that meets real requirements (pallet size, set of functions).
- Additional installation of water supply and sewerage for the selected model.
- Leveling and sealing the installation site of the pallet (if necessary), water supply and sewerage connections must be accessible after installation.
The choice of model is extremely important point. To ensure that you are getting exactly what you need, try to find a real working sample and try it out.
After specifying the liner and purchasing the product, you can proceed directly to installation. The instructions for assembling the shower cabin, which are always included with each product, will help you with this.
Video by self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin:
Pallet assembly
Most standard pallets in the mid-price category share the following features:
- Corner design.
- Acrylic bowl on a metal profile frame.
- Separate panels covering the interior of the pallet.
- Height 450-550 mm.
The main elements of all pallets are the same regardless of other parts (walls, doors), so assembling the pallet is a standard procedure.
Operating procedure:
1. Place the acrylic bowl upside down next to the installation site.
2. Install the bowl screen in the designed position (under the bowl rim).
3. Fix the screen tabs with self-tapping screws - the panel should hold without any backlash or gaps.
Note. In places where other elements are attached to the bowl there are always thickenings (for self-tapping screws) or embedded parts. This must be indicated in the instructions.
4. Try on the metal frame. Its ribs should coincide with the thickenings at the bottom of the bowl.
5. Thread a threaded rod (Ø 14, included) through the mounting holes and screw it into the seats until it stops. Install limiting locknuts and adjust the gap between the frame and the bottom to 15-20 mm.
6. Apply silicone sealant to the contact points between the profile and the acrylic and press the frame tightly with locknuts to the bowl. Also install studs in the free consoles.
Attention! The tightening force is not critical. Try not to tear out the embedded parts.
7. Install on front row studs and plastic screen stops. Sometimes they are pressed with self-tapping screws.
8. Screw on the legs.
9. Install the siphon and drainage fittings.
Attention! Use silicone and winding. The connection must be very reliable, since the location of a possible leak is outside the visual access area.
10. We install the tray in the place of permanent use, and make fine adjustments to the stability (tighten the legs).
11. We connect and test the sewerage system.
On such a pallet you can install any walls that are suitable in size.
Preparation and installation of walls
Before installation, make sure that the package matches the documents. If you decide to assemble a shower stall with your own hands, you will have to study every step. Assembling the wall parts is an important step, since possible troubles will be hidden from view. All connections of tubes and wires (if any) must be made strictly according to the instructions.
Attention! Do not rely on intuition when assembling products in the economy segment. Consult with experienced craftsmen who know how to assemble a shower stall. Videos and forums on the Internet are also very useful and visual.
Video - how to assemble the back panel of a shower cabin:
After preliminary installation of the equipment, the walls should simply be installed in their seats. Sometimes they have factory holes, sometimes they don't.
We push the finished structure into the corner until it stops and install the upper plugs for the sinuses. This should be done carefully. Then you need to adjust the legs in place again. Test the pallet for stability.
Portal installation
The frame with the profile along which the doors run can be independent, or it can rest on the wall of the room. Regardless of the design, the assembly principle is approximately the same:
- Assemble the frame or install the top and bottom rails.
- Prepare the doors - hang fittings and rollers.
- Install fixed walls (if any).
- If there is a side profile, install it through silicone.
- Place the doors in the designed position.
- Check the stroke, adjust the guides.
- Add waterproofing silicone fittings - valves, aprons, plugs.
After all these operations, if they are performed correctly, you can connect the water and use the shower.
Prices for showers
It is very difficult to predict the exact price of a model with certain properties. The quality of the materials is of decisive importance, which directly affects the durability.
So, for example, a shower cabin made of high-quality thick plastic with one function (shower) manufactured in the EU will cost the same as a Chinese hydrobox with the maximum configuration - from 15 to 50 thousand rubles.
Note: shower cabins, which are in the lower price category, have a real service life of no more than 10 years with daily use by two people. Don't forget this when choosing and using your shower stall.
More complex models with many adjustments, a large bowl, and a Jacuzzi will cost 50-150 thousand rubles. (depending on the manufacturer). In the price category of 150-250 thousand rubles. there are reliable products that have exclusive design or completely made to order.
The manufacturability of hydroboxes is simply amazing - there are models with the function infrared sauna or even Turkish bath. Their price starts from 300 thousand rubles.
rmnt.ru, Igor Maksimov