Before us is a sewing machine of the late 20th century, manufactured by the Podolsk Plant named after. Kalinin. The machine, like previous models, is completely made of metal. Automation, as it was from 5 copiers, remained with the same number. True, almost 100% of the owners of the machine sewed in one position of the program selection knob.
Picture 1
Upper thread tension regulator(The thermometer) is made in a metal case, the compensation spring works from right to left, which is not particularly successful, see fig. 2
Figure 2
After removing the top cover, we can see that all parts of the machine are the same as in class 142, see fig. 3:
1. Sewing program selection knob;
2. Stitch width setting knob;
3. Needle bar position switch (left, center, right);
4. The body of the automation mechanism;
5. Copier pullers;
6. Copiers
Figure 3
On fig. 4 you can see the main difference from class 142 cars, namely the mechanism of the needle bar and the presser foot bar.
So, in order to correctly adjust the position of the needle bar, you first need to correctly install with presser foot bar. We loosen screws 1 and 2 and set the foot relative to the slot of the needle hole and tighten the screws.
After loosening the screw 3, we set the position of the needle bar relative to sewing, do not forget that the tip of the needle No. 100 should enter exactly into the center of the hole.
Adjusting washer remove the needle bar, to do this, release two screws 7, press the washer to the frame and tighten the screws. Screws 4 and 5 are used to fix and adjust the height of the presser foot and the position of the needle bar, respectively.
Screw 6 fix the position of the thermometer. This screw must be tightened periodically. Thread take-up mechanism the same as in the car 142 class.
Figure 4
Figure 5 shows correct installation of the gear sector and the gear of the shuttle. The third gear tooth must fit between the first and second sector teeth.
Figure 5
The bottom of the car has not undergone any changes (see Fig. 6):
1. Guide;
2. Cam (lifting eccentric);
3. Stitch length regulator;
4. The lower end of the drawbar;
5. Crank;
6. Crank fastening screw (by loosening it, the stroke is adjusted);
7. Screw for fastening the reverse gear;
8. Screw (advance setting);
9. Lower end of the fork;
10. Crank;
11. Fastening bolt (setting the position of the teeth of the fabric conveyor).
Figure 6
Figure 7 shows the bottom of the machine on the left:
1. Handle for selecting the height of the lifting of the teeth of the conveyor;
2. Fastening screw, with its help the height of the teeth is adjusted;
3. Guide;
4. Screws for fastening the lifting eccentric;
5. Eccentric lifting;
6. Fabric conveyor shaft;
7. Shuttle device;
8. Clamp clamp screw;
9. Toothed sector;
10. Shuttle gear;
11. Adjusting washer.
Figure 7
Adjustment of all nodes and parts, progress and advancement, elimination of backlash in the nodes is exactly the same as in class machines. 142, therefore, after watching the film, it will not be difficult for you to disassemble, assemble and adjust the sewing machine.
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS- Correct installation of the needle is one of the main conditions for the operation of the machine.
Be careful when changing the needle. - Before connecting the machine to the network, make sure that there is no insulation damage in the connecting wires and that the electrical equipment is in good condition (the instruction manual for the electric drive is attached).
The machine can only be connected to the mains with a voltage of 220 V. If the mains voltage is 127 V, a transformer must be used. - Turn the handwheel only towards yourself, otherwise it may cause tangling of the threads in the bobbin.
- Before sewing, you must first insert the needle into the material while holding the ends of the threads, then lower the presser foot and make 2-3 pricks by turning the handwheel by hand.
- Care must be taken with the rising and falling needle.
- If the threading is incorrect, the machine will not sew.
- Keep the machine clean and regularly lubricated. Do not use vegetable or animal oils to lubricate the machine, which harden and cause the machine to run hard.
To lubricate the machine, it is necessary to use oil for sewing machines or oil of the type I-20A GOST 20799-75. - Do not pull or push the material while sewing, so as not to break the needle.
- Everything necessary work during machine maintenance or repairs should only be carried out after the machine has been switched off from the mains by disconnecting the mains plug from the mains socket.
2. PURPOSE OF THE MACHINE
The household sewing machine class 142 is designed for sewing cotton, linen, synthetic, woolen and silk fabrics with a straight or zigzag stitch with one or two (double-rod) needles, for decorative and special stitches, as well as for embroidery and darning.
3. TECHNICAL DETAILS
3.1 The maximum rotational speed of the main shaft, rpm - 1000.
Note: At the maximum sewing speed, parts will wear faster.
3.2. The largest total thickness sewn materials, mm - 4.5
3.3. Presser foot lift, mm - not less than 6.
3.4. Stitch length (adjustable), mm - up to 4.
3.5. Zigzag width (adjustable), mm - up to 5.
3.6. Needle displacement to the right-left from the middle (adjustable), mm - 2.5.
3.7. Head dimensions, mm - 290x178x412.
3.8. Departure of a sleeve, mm - not less than 170.
3.9. The mass of the machine with a foot drive, kg - no more than 39.
3.10. Overall dimensions of the table-cabinet, mm - 570x430x780.
3.11. The mass of the machine with electric drive in a suitcase-case, kg - no more than 16.
3.12. Case-case dimensions, mm - 500x220x340.
3.13. Used needles: 0220 No. 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 GOST 22249-76 and double-rod No. 0240 No. 70, 80, 90 GOST 22249-76.
Used threads: sewing cotton 21 tex x 3 (No. 30); 16.5 tex x 3 (No. 40); 13 tex x Z No. 50); 10 tex x 3 (No. 60); 7.5 tex x 3 (No. 80) GOST 6309-80, as well as natural silk threads No. 65 GOST 22665-77.
4. CONTENTS OF DELIVERY
4.1 Sewing machine class 142 is manufactured in the following versions:
a) a sewing machine with a foot drive and a table-wardrobe (142-22, 142-22-0, 142-22-1);
b) sewing machine with electric drive on a stand in a suitcase (142-33).
c) sewing machine with a table-cabinet, with a foot and electric drive (142-22-33); 142-22-1-33).
4.2 Each car comes with:
a) a set of accessories included in the box:
needles - 5 pcs.
double-rod needles - 3 pcs.
oiler - 1 pc.
large screwdriver - 1 pc.
small screwdriver - 1 pc.
darning device - 1 pc.
foot with a ruler - 1 pc.
sewing foot 1 - 1 pc.
bobbin - 4 pcs.
ripper in a case - 1 pc.
brush-brush - 1 pc.
lighting lamp voltage 220 V,
power -15 watts - 1 pc.
needle threader - 1 pc.
device for a secret stitch - 1 pc.
foot for sewing on buttons - 1 pc.
foot-knife - 1 pc.
foot for embossed stitching and sewing on a cord - 1 pc.
buttonhole and stitch foot - 1 pc.;
b) operation manual with acceptance certificate and warranty card.
4.3 Complete machine with table(Fig. 1)
The head 3 with its lower part (platform) 15 is attached to the cabinet table with the help of two hinges 14 and screws 16, the visor 11 is screwed to the machine platform with two screws 13 and washers 12.
5. PREPARING THE MACHINE FOR WORK
5.1. Preparing to operate the foot operated machine(see fig. 1)
Open the top cover 2 and place it on the previously opened door 1 of the cabinet-table as a support.
Then raise the front valve 5, pull out the machine head 3 and, lowering the valve, install the machine head on it.
After that, put the belt 6 on the flywheel 4 stream, thread its two ends through the holes in the visor 11 and connect with a paper clip. Before starting work, put the belt 6 on the drive wheel 7.
Working on a foot machine requires a certain skill. Beginners first need to learn how to idle the car. To do this, on the side of the flywheel 1 (Fig. 2a), release the friction screw 2 and turn it in the direction indicated by the arrow (towards you). Simultaneously hold the flywheel stationary with the other hand.
Alternately pressing the pedal 8 with your feet (see Fig. 1) set in motion the flywheel 4, which should rotate in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure.
Rice. 2a, 2b
When switching the machine to the working stroke, you need to be extremely careful.
Friction washer 1 (Fig. 26) must be placed with horns 4 outward, i.e. to friction screw 2. Then turn friction screw 2 up to the stop and screw in screw 3.
If in this position the machine does not start to work, unscrew the stop screw 3 and turn the washer 1 half a turn and again, fixing it with the friction screw 2, screw in the screw 3.
5.2. Preparing to operate an electric machine(Fig. 3)
A cord with three plugs is attached to the machine. Plug 4 is connected to the rheostat socket 5, plug 3 - to the engine socket on the machine, plug 2 - directly to the mains socket.
To turn on the lighting lamp, plug 1 must be inserted into the socket located in the top cover of the machine.
The machine is put into operation by gently pressing the rheostat pedal 5 with your foot. When starting, it is recommended that you lightly touch right hand flywheel rim, turn it in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure (i.e. towards yourself).
Note: Do not overtighten the drive belt. When pressed in the middle part, it should flex about 5mm.
5.3. (Fig. 4)
1. Presser foot.
2. Presser bar.
3. Needle holder.
4. Needle bar.
5. Cover.
6. Thread take-up lever.
7. Cover screws.
8. Rods for coils.
9. Winder tension unit.
10. Pointer for selecting the type of lines.
11. Zigzag width indicator.
12. Winder.
13. Flywheel.
14. Zigzag width knob.
15. Needle shift knob left and right.
16. Handle for switching the type of lines.
17. Reverse feed lever.
18. Stitch length knob.
19. Tension adjuster upper thread.
20. Sleeve with platform.
21. Sliding plate.
22. Shuttle device.
23. Engine material.
24. Needle plate.
5.4. Installing or replacing the needle(Fig. 5)
By turning the handwheel towards itself, the needle bar is set to its highest position.
Then the needle 1 is inserted into the needle holder 2 up to the stop and secured with a screw 3.
The flat side of the flask 4 (flat) on the needle should be facing away from the worker.
Note: The needle is always inserted up to the stop, with a long groove from the thread entry side.
First, fix the friction screw 2 (see Fig. 26) by turning it in the direction opposite to the arrow, i.e. set the machine to the working stroke.
Then set the needle to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you.
After that, raise the presser foot 5 (Fig. 6) with the lifting lever 2 and pull the spool pin 3 up to the stop from the cover of the sleeve and place the spool of thread on it.
5.6. Top threading
The upper thread is threaded in the following sequence (Fig. 7):
a) from spool 1 to holes 2 and 3 of the thread guide;
b) between the tension washers of the regulator 6;
c) through the thread guide spring 5;
d) down under hook 7;
e) up through the hole of the thread take-up lever 4;
f) down into the wire thread guide 8;
g) down into the thread guide 9 on the needle bar;
h) into the eye of the needle 10 from the side of the worker from himself.
The threads in the double-rod needle are threaded in the same sequence.
5.7. Getting a quality line can be achieved with correct selection needles and threads depending on the thickness of the sewn materials.
It is recommended to take the lower thread one number thinner than the upper one, or, in extreme cases, one number.
The machine you purchased has a No. 100 needle, so to check the machine for sewing, you must use thread No. 40 and cotton fabrics such as calico or flannel.
When sewing thin and sticky fabrics, we recommend guiding and holding the fabric or placing thin paper under the fabric to avoid seam pulling.
The numbers of needles and threads, depending on the sewn materials, are indicated in Table. one.
Note: You can see the table of modern needles. You must use the type of needles for which the machine is configured. Domestic needles - the diameter of the flask is 1.75mm, imported - 1.7mm.
Table 1
5.8. Threading the upper thread with the needle threader(Fig. 8)
For the convenience of threading the needle, a needle threader is used, with which the thread is pulled into the eye of the needle.
5.9. Threading the lower thread
Before threading the bobbin thread, the sliding plate 21 must be pulled out (see Fig. 4).
Then, opening the latch 6 (Fig. 9) of the bobbin case 1, remove it from the hook 2.
Next, the threads are wound on the bobbin using a winder, while the flywheel of the machine should rotate idle (see Fig. 2a).
Put the bobbin 3 (Fig. 10) on the winder rod. Thread the thread from the spool 2 between the tension washers 1, as shown in the figure, and wind several turns on the bobbin 3 by hand. Then bring the winder with the bobbin to the stop 4 and wind it by turning the handwheel with the drive, lightly holding the spool of thread with your hand to prevent the spool from jumping off the rod. The winder will stop when the bobbin is fully wound. Before removing the bobbin, move the winder away from the stop 4.
Insert the wound bobbin into the bobbin case and thread as shown in Fig. 11, first into slot 1, then under spring 2 and bring out the free end of the thread 10-15 cm long.
Adjust the spring force with screw 3.
Holding the bobbin case by the latch 6 (see Fig. 9), put it on the shaft 4 of the hook 2 until it stops and release the latch. In this case, finger 5 must enter socket 3. With the bobbin case correctly inserted, the latch should be in a spring-loaded state and, when opened, should tend to return to its original position.
5.10. Start sewing
Before sewing, the bobbin thread must be pulled up onto the needle plate. To do this, while holding the end of the upper needle thread, turn the handwheel so that the needle drops into the needle hole, grabs the lower bobbin thread and rises to the top position. Then, with the upper needle thread, pull the lower shuttle thread onto the needle plate (Fig. 12) and pull both threads away from you under the foot (Fig. 13).
Rice. 12 Fig. 13
After that, holding the threads, lower the needle into the material (turning the flywheel towards you by hand) and, lowering the foot, make 2-3 injections. You can then sew while holding and guiding the fabric. After sewing, raise the presser foot (the needle should be in the upper position), pull the material to be sewn away from you and cut the thread on the edge of the thread cutter 1 (see Fig. 6) located on the presser foot bar, leaving the end of the thread 8-10 cm long.
To check the sewing quality of each type of stitches, it is recommended to make a test stitch on a patch of the fabric you need and, if necessary, adjust the thread tension.
The tension of the upper thread is adjusted using the tension regulator 4 (see Fig. 6).
The weave of the upper and lower threads on thick materials should be in the middle of the materials to be sewn (Fig. 14). On thin materials, the weave of the upper and lower threads is formed on both sides of the fabric.
If the thread weave is on top of the material when the stitch is formed, loosen the upper thread tension.
If the thread weave is at the bottom of the material, you need to increase the tension of the upper thread.
Note: With the right selection of needle-thread-material and correct adjustment upper thread tension, the stitching is adjusted only with the upper thread tension regulator.
When going over thick fabrics, sew slowly and turn the handwheel by hand.
If the fabric is jammed under the presser foot, it is recommended to raise it, and advance the material a little by hand, while the needle should be out of the material.
It must be remembered that it is impossible to start the machine without material placed under the presser foot.
Otherwise, the material feed teeth and the surface of the presser foot will deteriorate.
After sewing, be sure to place fabric under the foot and lower the foot with the needle.
5.11. Machine lubrication
Before lubricating the machine, remove the cover 3 (Fig. 15), having previously released the screws 4.
After that, all the places indicated in figures 16, 17, 18 are lubricated with 2-3 drops of sewing machine oil.
If the machine has not been operated for a long time or heavy running has occurred as a result of the thickening of the oil, the machine must be flushed.
It is done like this. A little kerosene is injected into all lubrication points indicated in the figures. Then, for a while, the machine is put into action. The kerosene leaked out in the places of lubrication is removed with a rag. After that, the car is lubricated.
To lubricate the machine, use only oil with the designation "Oil for sewing machines" or industrial I-20A GOST 20799-75.
The machine needs to be lubricated periodically during continuous use.
Note: Only the articulated parts need to be lubricated. I always recommend lubricating the machine every 8-16 hours of operation, runs quieter and lighter.
5.12. Installing the Top Cover
Cover 3 (Fig. 15) is installed as shown in the figure. In this case, the needle should be in the upper position and the winder is turned off. Safety shield 2 electric lamp when installing the cover 3 must not touch the bracket 1.
Note: I bend the lower edge of the bracket 2 towards the light bulb, to avoid hitting the bracket 1.
(Fig. 16)
(Fig. 17)
(Fig. 18)
5.13. (Fig. 19)
The heavy running of the machine, and sometimes jamming, can occur from contamination of the shuttle. The course is clogged with scraps of thread, tows of fabric, dust.
To clean the shuttle stroke, the needle bar must be placed in the upper position. Then you should pull out the bobbin case 5, by turning the spring lock 4 towards yourself, remove the overlay ring 3 and remove the hook 2. Clean the socket of the shuttle 1 with a brush-brush from dust, dirt and threads.
Considering the importance of this operation, it is recommended to clean the hook periodically.
At the same time, it is not allowed to use metal objects when cleaning, so as not to damage the working surface of the shuttle.
Note: After cleaning, put a drop of oil on the working surface of the shuttle, then sew some patch to remove the oil.
6. MACHINE CONTROL(Fig. 20)
6.1. To sew with a simple straight stitch, you need to combine the number 0 on handle 6 with pointer 5. Handle 2 can be in any position.
6.2. The stitch length is set by turning the knob 7 relative to the pointer 9 on the panel.
6.3. To obtain a bartack, press lever 8 all the way down and release it, while the lever automatically returns to its original position.
On fig. 20 is scale 1, which shows the types of stitches performed on the machine.
6.4. To shift the stitching, handle 4 is used. By turning it all the way without effort in the direction indicated by the arrows, the needle moves to the right or left, respectively, from the middle position.
Offset stitching is used for special operations such as buttonholes, sewing in zippers, etc.
6.5. The height of the material motor teeth is adjusted using regulator 1 (Fig. 21).
You can use the regulator with the sliding plate removed. For thick materials, the regulator is set to the H mark (normal), for thin materials, to the W mark (silk), for embroidery and darning, to the H mark (embroidery). Letters should be on top.
6.6. To switch to zigzag, decorative and target stitches knob 2 (see fig. 20)
By lightly pressing away from you and then turning, set to the desired type of stitch. By turning knob 6, set the required zigzag width relative to pointer 5.
The pattern for finishing products will be clearer with a smaller stitch pitch.
7. ACCESSORIES FOR THE SEWING MACHINE
The sewing machine is equipped with a set of accessories that expand the capabilities of the machine. The rules for their use are described below.
7.1. (Fig. 22)
With this foot you get back seam used for sewing clothes. The position of the handles should be as follows:
Set knob 6 (see Fig. 20) to 0 relative to pointer 5.
Stitch type switch 2 can be in any position. Set knob 7 to the stitch pitch within 2...3 mm, depending on the materials to be sewn.
Sewing is performed in two operations:
First operation. Raise the needle to its highest position and replace the presser foot with a sewing foot. Pull the lower and upper threads, as shown in Fig. 13. Fold the materials to be sewn with the right side to each other, so that the lower material protrudes 4 ... 6 mm relative to the upper one.
Before starting work, the corner of the fabric should be cut obliquely so that the fabric can be easily tucked into the slot of the foot and skip it to the needle. Then lower the foot, sew 2-3 stitches by hand, turning the handwheel, then pull the material along with the threads along the sewing path until the material motor captures the sewn products.
When working, you need to ensure that "" the lower layer of the material is bent to the left and three layers are stitched evenly at once (Fig. 23).
Rice. 23. Fig. 24
Second operation. Unfold the sewn materials, cut the corner of the hem obliquely and tuck it into the slot of the foot, then sew as described in the first operation.
Final linen seam shown in fig. 24.
7.2. it is also used for sewing on lace (Fig. 25).
Lace is tucked with its edge into the slot of the foot directly under the needle. The machine is set to sew with a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch. Handle 2 (see Fig. 20) is set to number 1 relative to pointer 3. The width of the zigzag is set by handle 6 relative to pointer 5 to the required width.
7.3. (Fig. 26)
The machine is set up in the same way as when sewing with the suture foot.
The foot-knife is used for hemming the edges of fabrics of thin and medium thickness.
Raise the needle to the top position, replace the main foot with the foot-breaker. Thread the threads (top and bottom) under the foot.
Before sewing, the corner of the fabric should be cut obliquely to make it easier to thread the fabric into the snail of the foot. Then bend the fabric (approximately) by 5 mm and pass through the snail of the chopper foot to the needle. Then lower the presser foot and sew 2...3 stitches manually by turning the handwheel. Then, as with the sewing foot, slightly pull the fabric together with the threads in the course of sewing until the material motor captures the material, then continue sewing, all the while directing the edge of the material into the snail of the chopper foot (Fig. 27 ).
7.4. (Fig. 28)
When darning, set regulator 1 (see Fig. 2!) to mark “B;”, set the zigzag width regulator knob (see Fig. 20) to “0” relative to pointer 5. Stitch length regulator 7 must be set to “0” . Handle 2 can be in any position.
Install the darning tool in place of the main foot as shown in fig. 28.
You can darn without the help of a darning device, but this is with sufficient skill.
The edges of the damaged area are cut off and the fabric is pulled tight in the hoop. Then place the fabric under the needle and lower the presser foot lifter to tighten the upper thread.
When the machine is running fast, the hoop is moved slowly and evenly forward and backward in the longitudinal direction with both hands, going 1 cm beyond the edges of the defective area. Then darn in the transverse direction.
7.5. (Fig. 29)
The foot with a ruler is installed on the machine instead of the main foot
The machine is adjusted in the same way as when sewing with the suture foot. The sliding guide foot is used when sewing when the next stitch needs to be sewn parallel to the previous stitch. The ruler is set at a certain distance from the needle and fastened with screw 1.
The fabric is guided so that the ruler slides along the sewn seam. The second seam is stitched at a set distance. In this way, it is possible to stitch rows and squares of the same width, as well as to quilt wadded products, for this, cotton wool is laid between two layers of fabric and stitched evenly.
The ruler foot can also be used for sewing in zippers (Fig. 30). In this case, unscrew screw 1 (see Fig. 29) and remove the guide bar.
Overcasting loops is done in the following order:
a) a special foot is placed on the machine for making loops (Fig. 31);
Rice. 31 Fig. 32
b) set the stitch length to a value close to zero;
c) the needle is moved into left side handle 4 (see Fig. 20) and lightly pressing the handle 2 set it until the number 1 is aligned with the pointer 3;
d) the width of the zigzag stitch is set by using knob 6 by approximately 2 mm.
For strength and improvement appearance loops, it can be overcast with a cord or thick thread. In this case, the cord is pulled through the front hole in the foot and placed on the material under the foot.
When overcasting a cord with a zigzag stitch, make sure that the cord is strictly directed along the axis of the zigzag. Having overcast one side of the loop to a certain size, equal to the length of the loop, set the needle to the lower position of its right injection, raise the foot and turn the material around the axis clockwise by 180 ° (Fig. 32a);
e) turn the handwheel so that the needle is in its highest position, and then set the width of the zigzag stitch to the full width of the buttonhole being sewn, approximately 4 mm.
With several needle pricks, a backtack is performed. After the bartack is completed, the needle is left in the material on the left side or in the upper position (Fig. 326);
f) set the width of the zigzag stitch to the width of the second side of the buttonhole and overcast it, making sure that the turned cord is parallel to the overcast side. Having maintained the length of the first half of the loop, leave the needle in the material on the left side or in the upper position (Fig. 32c);
g) set the width of the zigzag stitch to 4 mm and perform the second bartack with several pricks (Fig. 32d), after which the needle is raised to the upper position by turning the handwheel;
h) using handle 4 (see Fig. 20), set the needle to the middle position, set the zigzag handle 6 to “0” and 2-3 injections are made to secure the backtack;
f) after that, the product is removed from under the foot, the threads are cut off and the loop is cut.
A ripper is used to cut the loop (Fig. 33).
The buttonhole foot is also used for satin stitching. The work is done with a zigzag stitch at a small stitch pitch.
7.7. (Fig. 34)
With the help of this foot, flat buttons with two and four holes are sewn on. The work is performed in the following sequence:
a) put a special foot;
b) set the material motor teeth lifting height regulator to “B” (see Fig. 21), set the line step regulator to “0”;
c) shift the needle with the shift regulator 4 (see Fig. 20) to the left side;
d) place material with a button under the foot so that the holes of the button are under the notch of the foot;
e) set the machine for a zigzag stitch, taking the width of the zigzag equal to the distance between the centers of the holes at the button;
f) sew on a button with 6 ... 8 stitches;
g) set the zigzag handle to “0” and make 2 ... 3 bartacking pricks in one hole of the button. If the button has 4 holes, then the second pair of holes is sewn in the same sequence. Sew loops and hooks in the same way.
7.8. (Fig. 35)
With the help of this foot, a relief line with a cord is obtained, and a cord is also sewn on.
Longitudinal recesses at the base of the foot make it possible to obtain a series of lines parallel to each other. The drawings show how to make several parallel embossed stitches with the borehole inside with twin needles. The cord can simply be placed under the material (fig. 36) or fed from the spool through the hole in the throat plate (fig. 37).
Rice. 36 Fig. 37
Sewing on a cord (soutache) can be done with a zigzag stitch. The cord or soutache is fed from the reel through the hole in the needle plate and through the hole in the foot (Fig. 38, 39).
7.9. (Fig. 40)
Having previously unscrewed the screw 1 of the main presser foot, insert the blind stitch tool 2 under the screw into the slot of the presser foot and fasten the screw.
The needle must be in the up position.
The width of the zigzag is set to 2-3 mm, the stitch pitch is 3-4 mm. Align the number 2 (see Fig. 20) of the stitch type switch knob 2 with the stitch type indicator 3. The amount of material gripping at the left injection is regulated by the needle displacement knob 4 until the needle with its left injection will slightly grab upper layer material.
After hemming, unfold the material and smooth it out.
7.10. Embroidery
Embroidery is an art, in its nature it is close to drawing, only here the paints are replaced with threads of appropriately selected colors or pieces of multi-colored fabrics.
There are several types and methods of artistic embroidery, which, with a certain skill, can be carried out on a machine: cutwork, appliqué, artistic smoothness, and others.
For embroidery, you need a hoop and small scissors with curved sharp ends. The printed fabric is stretched taut in the hoop. To prevent warping of the fabric, you should first pull it along the shared thread, and then slightly pull the material from the sides and straighten the formed folds or gathers.
Preparing the machine for embroidery:
a) remove the presser foot;
b) lower the presser foot lifter down so that the needle thread is always under tension;
c) set the stitch regulator lever 7 (see Fig. 20) to the zero position;
d) set the handle of the material feed lift regulator to position B (see Fig. 21).
When embroidering, it is necessary to slightly increase the tension of the lower thread, respectively, loosening the tension of the upper thread. This is done so that the front seam is more convex.
To do this, bring the hoop under the needle, and holding the end of the needle thread, make one needle prick by turning the handwheel by hand. Pulling the top thread, pull the bottom thread up. Then, holding the ends of both threads, make 2-3 stitches, turning the handwheel by hand, and only then turn on the machine. The hoop with the fabric is moved when embroidering by hand.
It is necessary to move the hoop with the needle in the upper position without tearing it off the surface of the platform in order to prevent skipped stitches. The machine should be embroidered at low speed.
The sequence of techniques for preparing the machine for embroidery described above is common to all types of embroidery.
(Fig. 41)
Richelieu is a kind of artistic embroidery, when part of the pattern is cut out of fabric, and the resulting gaps are connected with bridges or cobwebs. Before embroidering, it is recommended to stitch the pattern for greater strength once or twice along the lines of the pattern with a straight seam. After that, the fabric is cut out in the right places, and the stitched straight seams of the pattern are overcast with a zigzag stitch. When overcasting, make sure that the straight seam is inside the zigzag seam.
Embroidering appliqués (Fig. 42)
Applications can be made in two ways:
a) a pattern or pattern is cut out and sewn with tight (minimum step) or wide (large step) zigzag stitches;
b) The applique is drawn on the fabric and sewn along the lines of the pattern with narrow short zigzag stitches. Then the protruding edge of the appliqué is trimmed almost flush with the seam and the appliqué is sheathed with wider zigzag stitches.
In both cases, the upper thread tension must be loosened.
(Fig. 43)
Stitch embroidery requires the appropriate skill.
The hoop with a stretched fabric and a pattern applied to it is brought under the needle so that the fabric lies directly on the needle plate. The hoop is moved by hand so that the needle makes injections according to the pattern, densely filling the entire pattern.
7.11. Overcasting the edge of the material with a zigzag stitch or making a shell seam on knitwear(Fig. 44)
When overcasting the edge with a zigzag stitch, the needle, with its right prick, should pass outside the material at the very edge, and with its left prick through the material.
Depending on the thickness of the material, the width of the zigzag and the stitch pitch are selected. The thicker the material, the larger the zigzag width and stitch pitch should be, and vice versa.
To make a shell seam on knitwear, the machine is set to the largest zigzag and stitch pitch.
With the right injection, the needle should pass at the very edge of the double-folded knitted fabric, and with the left injection, pass through the fabric, while the tension of the upper and lower threads is slightly increased.
7.12. Sewing on ribbon and elastic with a three-point zigzag(Fig. 45)
Ribbon can be sewn in various ways:
a) two straight parallel lines, using two-rod needles (Fig. 45);
b) two zigzag parallel stitches, using double-rod needles No. 70 and 80. In this case, the machine should be set to a zigzag stitch no more than 2 mm wide (Fig. 45);
c) one wide zigzag stitch (Fig. 45);
d) it is possible to sheathe the edge of the material with double-rod needles with a double-sided hem of the braid. A stronger stitch is obtained by setting the machine to a three-point zigzag (Fig. 45);
e) the elastic is sewn to the material in a slightly stretched position (Fig. 45).
13. (Fig. 46)
This job requires some skill. When sewing, you need to guide the material so that there is no gap between the two parts sewn into the joint.
A stronger stitch is obtained by using a three-point zigzag.
The line should be symmetrical about the seam. In this case, a regular presser foot is used.
To make an elastic seam with simultaneous overcasting of the edge, turn handle 2 (see Fig. 20) to number 2, set handle 6 to number 5, set stitch regulator knob 7 to the required stitch length.
The edge is hemmed in two ways: with an open cut (Fig. 50) and a closed cut (Fig. 51).
Rice. 50 Fig. 51
Dear buyer! If you have carefully studied our instructions, working on the machine will not cause you any difficulties! We wish you success!
Note: If you regularly clean and lubricate your machine, it will serve you for a long time and will bring only pleasure in work. At correct installation All adjustments these machines sew well. The only thing is the noise from the shuttle gear and the gear sector. In machines that have already worked a lot and the profile of the teeth has "got used" - the noise level decreases.
8. POSSIBLE MALFUNCTIONS AND METHODS FOR THEIR ELIMINATION.
List of the most common or possible faults
table 2
|
№
|
Name of the malfunction, external manifestation and additional signs | Probable cause of failure | Elimination method |
| 1 | Needle breakage | wrong position presser foot |
fasten the head screw of the presser foot so that the presser foot is in the correct position relative to the needle |
| incorrect choice needle numbers |
change the needle and select it in accordance with the sewn material and threads (see table 1) | ||
| poor sewing skills | sew according to this manual | ||
| poor quality (bent) needle | change needle | ||
| 2 | Top thread break | wrong filling upper thread |
thread the upper thread and install the needle in strict accordance with the instructions in the manual |
| too much tension upper thread |
loosen the upper thread tension by unscrewing the adjuster nut a few turns tension 6 (see fig. 7) |
||
|
poor thread quality |
change threads | ||
| poor quality needle with a poorly polished eye and burrs in the grooves |
change needle | ||
| 3 | Lower thread break | wrong filling threads in a bobbin case |
threading the bobbin case in accordance with the instructions in the manual |
| too much bobbin thread tension | loosen the lower thread tension by slightly lowering the adjusting screw 3 of the tension spring on the bobbin case (see fig. 11) | ||
| 4 | Skipped stitches | incorrect needle placement | install the needle according to the instructions in the manual (see fig. 5) |
| polished threads | replace the threads | ||
| too much fine needle for the selected thread | The needle number must match the thread number. | ||
| dull or bent needle | change needle | ||
| 5 | The machine does not advance the material well. | Insufficient protrusion of the feed dog teeth over the throat plate | adjust the lift of the feed dog teeth (see par. 6.5) |
| insufficient material pressure | increase the presser foot pressure, for which screw 1 (see Fig. 16) turn clockwise | ||
| 6 | heavy running machine | the presence of noils, thread breaks during the shuttle | clear shuttle travel |
| oil hardened in bearings | wash the car (see paragraph 5.11) | ||
| lint has accumulated under the needle plate | remove needle plate and clean | ||
| pull the drive belt to the footmachine taut | stretch the belt with your hands | ||
| 7 | Machine does not turn on | friction washer installed incorrectly | insert the washer correctly (see fig. 26) |
| 8 | The knock of the footrest of the table-cabinet | play in the ball joint | unscrew the nut 9. Eliminate the play through the hole in the bottom of the table by adjusting the screw support 10. Tighten nut 9 (see Fig. 1) |
| 9 | Drive belt slip | loose belt | for machines with a foot drive - shorten the belt, for machines with an electric drive - belt tension (see operating instructions for the electric drive) |
| 1 0 | The machine does not zigzag | Top cover not installed correctly | Install the cover as shown in Fig. 15 |
| 1 1 | There is no lighting | burned out light bulb | remove the top cover (see fig. 15) and replace the lamp |
The proposed instruction for sewing machines Chaika and Podolsk is a simplified version of the manufacturer's instruction manual. This universal instruction can be used for all models of sewing machines Chaika 2, 3, 132, 132m, 134, and Podolsk 142, 142m, Malva and other models.
1. Main components and mechanisms
Remove the top cover (two screws on the top of the cover) and apply a few drops of oil to the main components of the front compartment. Screw 1 is for adjusting the needle bar into which the needle is inserted. Screw 2 clamps the upper thread tensioner. This mount often needs to be tightened, since the plastic body of the tensioner falls through the screw and the tensioner begins to wobble in the seat.
If the fabric does not advance well, most often you just need to raise the teeth of the rail by setting the switch to position (H) - normal, B - embroidery.
When removing the flywheel, be sure to pay attention to the position of the friction washer tabs (L). To completely loosen the friction screw holding the flywheel, loosen the screw (K). Adjusting the tension of the electric drive belt or is carried out after loosening the screw (B).
The bobbin winder also needs to be lubricated and sometimes adjusted.
2. Incorrectly selected needle number leads to thread breakage
Any instruction has recommendations for choosing a needle, depending on the type and thickness of the fabric and the selected threads. Here is a list of recommendations for sewing machine Seagull, Podolskaya:
Silk, cambric - No. 70; chintz, satin, cambric, linen fabrics - No. 80;
cotton fabrics, coarse calico, flannel, thin woolen fabrics - No. 90;
woolen, costume fabrics - No. 100;
thick woolen fabrics, broadcloth - No. 110.
The needle must be installed up to the stop and tightened well with a screw so that it does not jump out during operation. The flat (sawn) side of the bulb on the needle should be facing away from you. And do not install industrial design needles with a round bulb. Such needles lead to skips and even to serious breakages, in particular breakage of the sewing machine needle.
Before threading the lower thread, you need to turn the handwheel to put the needle in the upper position, pull out the needle plate and grab the latch of the bobbin case with two fingers of your left hand to pull it out of the shuttle of the machine. By the way, when you install it back, a faint click should be heard. If the latch does not work, the bobbin case may turn on the axis and break the needle.
The thread is brought under the spring plate of the cap, which creates tension in the lower thread. The tension is regulated by a screw pressing this plate. By turning the screw to the left, the tension is loosened, and vice versa. Only unscrew no more than half a turn, otherwise the screw may pop out and be lost.
The bottom thread should come out freely without effort, but with a slight perceptible tension. The lower thread tension is rarely adjusted. Basically, it needs to be changed when sewing too thin fabrics or knitwear, as well as when using very thin threads.
4. Control of the sewing machine Chaika, Podolsk
Often the bobbin case of the Seagull sewing machine is called a shuttle or a bobbin. This is wrong, every detail has its own name.
To sew a normal straight stitch, the zigzag width lever must be set to the number "0" and the position of the stitch selection switch should be set to the straight stitch. Set the desired stitch length, usually 3 or 4 mm, thread correctly. The shuttle course consists of a shuttle and a bobbin case. The bobbin with lower thread is inserted into the bobbin case.
Before starting work, check the position of the rack teeth. For sewing medium fabrics, the selector lever should be in the "H" position - normal. "B" - embroidery, that is, the teeth of the rail during the operation of the sewing machine should not come out of the needle plate and not advance the fabric. "SH" - silk, thin fabrics.
The guideline for the correct position of the rack teeth is the position of these letters on top.
To sew a zigzag stitch, set the zigzag width to "0 - 5" and select zigzag on the stitch selector. Do not forget to reduce the stitch length to 1 - 3 mm, otherwise the zigzag will be too sparse.
The tension of the threads when performing a zigzag stitch needs to be adjusted additionally. Adjust the upper thread tension so that both threads are pulled evenly into the fabric. Please note that too much tension on the top thread will cause the fabric to pull when sewing. You may also need to adjust the bobbin thread tension.
The signature sound of the Seagull sewing machine occurs at the knot (L). The bevel gear during operation periodically touches the frame of the machine. Theoretically, knocking can be eliminated, but only the master can do this. However, you can reduce the noise of this assembly yourself if you lubricate the gear teeth with a thick lubricant, such as graphite grease.
Depending on the operating conditions of the sewing machine, lubrication and cleaning should be done periodically, but at least once every six months. Oil for lubrication should only be used special, designed for lubricating sewing machines. Other types of oils can cause heavy running.
Half of sewing machine malfunctions begin due to improper care of the sewing machine. The most common case is when, after a year, the machine is taken out of the pantry and it turns out that it makes passes, breaks the thread, etc. But before there were no complaints about her work. Why this happens, you will learn in the article.
Factory instructions for Chaika contains several pages on how to lubricate the machine. In fact, these recommendations can be simplified and only those places where there is friction of metal parts can be lubricated.
To have access to some nodes, you need to remove the top cover of the machine, reinforced with two screws and the bottom protection (plywood), fixed to the wooden case with 4 petals. Do not get carried away with abundant lubrication, especially around the needle. If you do not want to eventually get an unpleasant oil stain when sewing, then 2-3 drops of oil are enough to lubricate one node in this compartment.
To clean the shuttle and the shuttle compartment, it is convenient to use a hard glue brush, and for lubrication - a regular medical syringe.
This article lists the main malfunctions of sewing machines such as Chaika, Podolsk and how to fix them. Using this material, you can repair sewing machines of other brands, including foreign-made household sewing machines with a vertical shuttle. If you have a manual for a sewing machine, be sure to carefully read the manufacturer's recommendations for the operation and care of the sewing machine.
How is the vertical shuttle. Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them. Shuttle of the sewing machine type Seagull.
Basic knowledge of how a sewing machine works and how to set up your own sewing machine can be found in the instructions for the sewing machine. If you want to understand in more detail how the sewing machine works, and how to do it yourself minor repairs manual sewing machine Podolsk, then this article can be your first assistant, where given short instruction for its repair.
Repairing a sewing machine Seagull requires certain knowledge and experience. But, many types of "breakdowns" can be fixed on your own if you read this article. In this article, we offer a brief, written in a simple and understandable language, instructions for sewing machines such as Seagull that perform a zigzag stitch. The operation and arrangement of the sewing machine Podolsk and Chaika are almost the same. Therefore, this instruction manual can be used for any models of Chaika, Malva, Podolsk sewing machines.
Any instruction for a sewing machine pays considerable attention to the bobbin, small, but important detail sewing machine. How to wind the thread correctly, how to insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, which threads can be used and which bobbins are suitable for your sewing machine model. Read your sewing machine manual carefully. It gives important information, given that your machine will sew efficiently and flawlessly for many years.
Many have preserved such sewing machines. They have long been outdated, but they are quite suitable for learning the basics of sewing. It is best for a beginner seamstress to use a hand-operated machine. But, as a rule, a manual drive requires serious repairs over many years of operation. How to do this, read this article.
To understand how any lockstitch sewing machine works, first study how a lockstitch is formed. This will give you an idea of which parts of the sewing machine interact with each other to form a quality, skip-free stitch in the line.
The Seagull sewing machine is perhaps the most popular model of a home sewing machine, despite the abundance of imported sewing machines. household machines in the shops. At one time, I had to buy it for a lot of money, and it seemed like she sewed well recently, only something began to wind. It's almost impossible for her to break. The body is made of aluminum, the parts are all metal, the components are strong and reliable - everything is in the style of Soviet technology. But, unfortunately, it winds practically "from birth" and knocks when sewing, like a machine gun.
Many other "charms" were provided by the factory along with instructions for the device and use, where almost 5 pages describe how the pedal works, given circuit diagram engine, but no word on how to set up and repair Seagull sewing machine.
The Seagull sewing machine has many models that differ little from each other: Seagull 2; 3; 142m; 132; 134; 143 and others. Sewing machines of the Podolsk plant: Podolsk 142, Podolsk 125-1 others, as well as the Malva sewing machine, have approximately the same device as Chaika. Therefore, the instructions for one of these machines are quite suitable for any model of a full zigzag sewing machine, such as Chaika.
Setting up, adjusting and repairing Seagull sewing machines is almost the same for all models mentioned above, with the exception of copier repair (depending on the machine model) and setting some shuttle parameters. But since our task is to learn how to tune only the line, we will omit the repair of many nodes in this article. In addition, such repairs cannot be done with your own hands, without professional knowledge and experience, and even at home.
Sewing machine lubrication Seagull
Before proceeding with the repair and adjustment of the Chaika sewing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to do a routine inspection, cleaning, lubrication. To do this, disconnect the electric motor from the mains, remove the top cover (it is fastened with two screws on top). Detach the presser foot, remove the needle and needle plate, bobbin cover. Disconnect the machine from wooden stand or table. Disassemble the shuttle: bobbin case, locking ring, shuttle. Now remove dust, dirt, lint from the machine (especially in the shuttle compartment) and lubricate all rubbing, accessible places well with machine oil. You can look at the places that need to be lubricated in the instructions for the machine or lubricate all available rubbing metal parts and nodes.
For lubrication, it is very convenient to use a medical disposable syringe, just choose the size so that it fits in the neck of the oil container. The needle must be removed when filling with oil.
Repair of the sewing machine Seagull
The main fault with machines of the "Seagull" type, performing a zigzag stitch and several types of finishing stitches based on it, are skips, looping of the lower and upper threads, as well as thread breakage from above and below. It is these faults and how to fix them that we will consider in this article.
Thread breakage most often occurs with Chaika-type sewing machines. The first reason leading to thread breakage is the bent point of a blunt needle, which breaks the thread during its movement. With the help of a magnifying glass, the state of the needle point is very clearly visible.
Use serviceable needles and designed for Chaika sewing machines, in accordance with the instructions.
A broken thread can be the result of many malfunctions, for example, if the needle touches it when entering the needle hole, then the thread will break periodically. When performing a straight stitch, the needle should be located in the center of the hole in the needle plate, evenly removed from its sides, and when performing a zigzag operation, the needle position L should be the same with R.
Longitudinal installation of the needle in the center of the needle gap is carried out by shifting the needle bar frame, fixed with two screws on the rocker arm, in the upper part of the machine (turn the flywheel on the zigzag line and you will see this mount).
Loosen these screws and set (on a straight stitch) the needle exactly in the center (offsetting the needle bar frame). After that, check the position of the needle with its left and right injection. I hope that the entry of the needle (at the maximum width of the zigzag), on the right and on the left, will be evenly removed from the center. If it touches the edge of the hole at the maximum width of the zigzag, contact the master, this case is already for him.
Adjusting the vertical position of the needle
The transverse position of the needle is regulated by a rod mounted on a plate with two screws and a plate pressing the needle bar frame to the bracket rod. Adjusting this assembly is quite complicated and requires experience, but, unfortunately, it is this mechanism that can spontaneously go astray during operation, especially the Chaika electric sewing machine. Therefore, if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself, you should learn how to adjust the position of the needle, since moving the needle forward is the cause of its breakdown, and moving away from the seamstress is the cause of skips.
Adjusting the needle position requires professional knowledge and experience. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, contact the wizard, as it can cause other components to fail, the repair of which cannot be learned from a boring book stuffed with technical terms and diagrams.
It can be added that when using a curved needle, notches may form on the nose of the shuttle, which “unwind” the thread and break. The nose of the shuttle should be perfectly smooth and sharp, without roughness. Its condition can be determined by running a fingernail along the edge of the spout or using a magnifying glass. The pressure plate tightening screw must not be serrated, the latch handle must be clearly fixed and its surface must be clean and smooth. The shuttle itself must also be perfectly clean, without nicks and rust spots.
Adjusting the needle bar and attaching the tensioner
When sewing rough fabrics, sometimes the needle moves up along with the needle bar. There are gaps in the stitch. In this photo, the arrows indicate where the needle bar fastening screw and the fastening screw are located. upper thread tensioner.
Wrong position shuttle sewing machines The seagull leads to thread breakage and the appearance of other stitching defects, including gaps. Passes usually appear due to the wrong position of the shuttle at the moment of meeting with the needle - the nose of the shuttle does not capture the loop formed, passes by and a gap is formed. Many other factors can be the reason.
In order to correctly set the position of the meeting of the nose of the shuttle and the needle, it is necessary to adjust the position of the shuttle. You can loosen the two bolts that secure it and carefully, using a powerful screwdriver, move or move away the move along with the shuttle in relation to the needle. The shuttle travel rotates on an axle rather than moving back and forth. This is very important point. No need to pull it out with a nail puller or hammer it in, it easily turns on its axis. It is difficult for an inexperienced person to immediately understand what is at stake, but it is also very difficult to explain in more detail. Everything that can be added, carefully understand before you twist something, and even more so unscrew it. There should be no remaining parts after repair.
Shuttle and needle adjustment parameters (Seagull)
At the moment of meeting the nose of the shuttle and the blade of the needle, must be respected following parameters: gap between nose and blade approx. 0.15 mm; when the needle leaves the lower position to a height of 1.8 - 2.0 mm, the nose should approach it above the eye of the needle by 1 mm, at least, but not more than 3 mm.
By the way, a very important point is the lifting of the needle from the lower position (1.8 - 2.0 mm). This parameter affects the formation of the needle loop and should be addressed Special attention. In order for the nose to grab the thread from the needle, it is necessary that a loop is formed, where it passes, hooking it. That is why the needle must first go down and then, having risen a little, already meet the looper nose.
The position of the needle is also regulated by the needle bar, for this there is a screw for attaching it to the sleeve under the front cover (see above).
If you set such parameters for adjusting the shuttle, then sewing machine "Seagull" will work relatively well. But, unfortunately, this repair is not over. There are still many other shuttle settings that are quite complex and necessary for the Chaika sewing machine. It is there that the reasons for the looping of the thread and such a rare phenomenon for sewing machines - a break in the lower thread are hidden. The complexity of the presentation of this material is that for almost any model of the Chaika sewing machine, engineers have provided their own settings for this unit and, moreover, requiring great experience from the performer. For which they are thanked, at least from sewing machine repairmen. They will not be left without work as long as there are "Chaika" sewing machines.
Flywheel Friction Washer
Sometimes you have to remove the flywheel from the machine. There are only three parts in this knot, but many people cannot assemble it correctly. This is due to the fact that it would be more logical to insert the petals of the friction washer inside the slot of the shaft, which is why they do so. As a result, the machine starts to spin idle.
The petals should not be turned towards the body of the machine (shaft), but towards you. Not only that, they can be supplied in "two versions", choose one in which the limit screw will not interfere with tightening the flywheel mount.