In this article, we will consider the simplest option - gluing a 2 mm edge with pre-applied hot melt glue. You can order such an edge either from the supplier or from the workshop. The addition to its cost will be 2-5 rubles per square meter.
To glue such an edge, we need a technical hair dryer (thermal gun), a milling cutter (preferably an edging), a molding cutter, a sharp knife, a file and a HB glove.
We fix the part vertically or horizontally - as you prefer (it is advisable to fix it with clamps).
First, warm up the tip (about 5 cm) of the edge well so that the glue melts and the edge itself becomes soft.
We apply the edge and, warming up the glue with a stream of air, together with the end of the part, smooth the edge with a gloved hand. Warm up a section of about 10 cm long, put the hair dryer aside and iron the section more carefully, and so on every time. The main thing here is not to overheat the edge (the overheated edge bends easily - just by itself - and in this case, the places of bends in the form of waves will remain visible). 
We look at the glue seam again, heat the non-glued places with a hairdryer again (and it is necessary to warm it from the front side, warming up the entire edge) and smooth it until it fits completely.
Moving on to cutting the overhangs. If you have an edge router, then everything is fine, if only a universal manual one, then it will require revision, because do not put it on the edge of the workpiece - the overhang interferes.
I screwed a piece of chipboard onto the sole, which made it possible to raise the sole on only one side.
Then, of course, I made myself a normal edge cutter - that's what I will use in the lesson.
Practice scraps first to fine-tune the cutter cut, otherwise you risk damaging your laminate. Like this, for example: 
A milling cutter with a molding copy milling cutter (radius of rounding 3 mm), carefully, without swaying, lead along the face of the workpiece, cutting off excess edges.
We turn it over to the other side and repeat all the manipulations for smoothing the jambs and cutting off the overhangs.
We cut off the remains from the ends as follows: we carry out with pressure sharp knife along the edge, forming a scratch. We lay the workpiece on the edge of the table along the scratch line, and then break it off with a downward movement.
Or we saw off a piece from the end hacksaw blade(the main thing here is not to scratch the adjacent edge perpendicular to the sawn off edge).
We clean up irregularities and roughness with a file.
You should end up with something like this. For clarity, a straight (short) piece of the edge was glued on the machine, and a long one (which covers the bend) - by hand. The difference is almost invisible.
If you make furniture yourself from chipboard or MDF, then after cutting the sheets, you need to protect their end parts, which will increase the service life of the product and give it a beautiful appearance... For this, PVC edge is often used for furniture, but there are other varieties. In this article we will tell you about all types, the need for edging and how to glue it with your own hands.
Self-adhesive furniture edge - a narrow strip of melamine, PVC, ABS or other material. It protects and decorates the cut. In the production of cheap furniture from laminated chipboard, the edge is simply necessary, as it protects people from the effects of harmful formaldehyde. In addition, it gives strength and protects the material from moisture ingress.
Types of edges
The most popular are the following types of furniture edges. 
- Melamine edging with glue is the most budgetary, but not the highest quality type. She is afraid of moisture and can fall off over time (even without mechanical stress), easily cracks and erases at the corners. The only plus is the pre-applied layer of glue, which is why melamine edging remains a popular option at home.
- Furniture edge made of PVC 2 and 0.4 mm is the best option... It is much more stable and durable. A thickness of 0.4 mm is usually used for processing hidden places, and 2 mm is glued to the outer ends, which will be visible. However, its application requires a special machine for processing the edge, so it is used only in production.
- The ABS edge is a more environmentally friendly analogue of the previous version, which is less common on the market.
- Cut-in T-profile - inserted into the milled groove in the end of the chipboard. It was popular at a time when a special machine for PVC edgebanding was a rarity, and there were a lot of milling machines in the workshops.
- The overhead U-profile C18 is a good option, because it can be used for chipboard at home. Usually, the C18 P-profile is simply put on the end and glued to liquid nails. Minus - the edges protruding a few millimeters, under which dirt is clogged. On the other hand, this feature is very convenient if you are cutting chipboard with your own hands, large edges will hide uneven cuts and chips. This type is often used for.
- PVC edge 2 mm - 40 rubles;
- PVC edging 0.4 mm - 25 rubles;
- melamine edge for chipboard - 25 rubles;
- you will have to pay additionally for the processing of curved sections.
- On the inner insert shelf, only the front edge is processed with a layer of 2 mm.
- Top cover plate - on all sides (back edge 0.4 mm, the rest - 2 mm).
- The drawer front is processed from all sides with a thickness of 2 mm.
When buying furniture, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the processing of the ends. It is better not to take furniture with melamine treatment, as it will be short-lived.
Mortise T-edge 
Profile C18
For gluing on the machine, a special melt adhesive is used for the PVC edge. It is sold in the form of granules, after heating it becomes liquid. The adhesive is applied to the tape either hot or during the manufacture of the tape.
Chipboard edging
To make the edge for a worktop or cabinet look beautiful and durable, the best way will order edging in production. This is usually done in the same place where laminated chipboard is bought and ordered.
Approximate prices for application (for 1 running meter together with the material):
The most popular PVC edgeband in Russia is Rehau, it has wide choose colors, so you can choose a color for any chipboard. The width of the tape is different - from 15 to 45 mm. 
To order this service for a store, you must first prepare a diagram of how to glue the PVC edge: where to apply it and what thickness. Areas that will not wear out can be covered with 0.4mm PVC to save money (eg back and bottom edges). All visible areas are processed with PVC 2 mm. Where the joint will be attached to the joint with another part, processing is not needed. 
The difference PVC cover 0.4 and 2 mm
Let's give an example.
To simplify the calculations, you can use special furniture programs, they create a project automatically. As a result, to assemble an average wardrobe, a PVC edge for chipboard will cost 1.5-2 thousand rubles. It will not come out very cheaply, but it will be of high quality, safe and durable.
We glue the edge ourselves
For those who want to save money, there is a melamine edging with glue, which is glued with an iron. This option is quite suitable for repair. old furniture- do not carry a few small boards to the workshop. To solve the question of how best to glue the edge to the countertop, it is better not to be lazy and turn to production, or still use an overhead profile, since melamine will quickly deteriorate from moisture and abrasion.
For gluing, an old Soviet iron or construction hair dryer... The thermostat of the iron is set to about 2.5 positions. In addition, you will need a rag, knife, fine sandpaper and a stand to fix the parts.
You can also remove old edging tape with an iron. To do this, heat it up and pry it off with a spatula or knife.
In this video, you can watch how to glue a 2 mm edge at home:
To achieve a really good result, it is still better to order factory edging. The overpayment will not be too large, but the durability will increase significantly. Now on sale you can find almost any color of tape to simulate wood, or a solid version.
(Laminated chipboard) the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is laminated chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when the part is cut. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. Make her out of different materials, respectively, it has different properties and the price.
Edging paper or melamine
Most cheap option- edges made of melamine impregnated paper. The paper is taken with a higher density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued onto papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamine coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to trim the parts, an adhesive is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you only need to slightly warm this composition and press it well to the end.
Paper or melamine edging is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing furniture ends.
The thickness of paper edging tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no thicker sense to do, and it will be expensive.
This type of edge differs in that it bends very well, does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge wears out quickly. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on the back of shelves, countertops, etc.
PVC
Received in recent times widespread use of polyvinyl chloride is also used in the production of furniture edges. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it's easy to find the right one.
PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both DIYers and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
PVC furniture edge is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is furniture PVC edge with applied adhesive composition, is - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging has its drawbacks: not very wide temperature regime: from -5 ° C to + 45 ° C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when gluing with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.
ABS (ABS) plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals and is highly durable and durable. The disadvantage can be considered a high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edging can be matte, glossy, semi-glossy. There are also options that mimic various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.
Veneer edging
Veneer is a thin cut of wood, dyed and shaped like a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production for pasting veneer sections. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edging or 3D
Made from clear acrylic. On back side stripes are applied to the drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it bulk, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.
Furniture edge profiles
You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically attached. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
A groove is milled for the T-shaped furniture profiles in the edge to be processed. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are trimmed at 45 ° to make the corner look attractive. Before ideal condition finished with fine sandpaper. This type of profile is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width, they are under laminated chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They are smeared with an edge, then put on plastic profile, well press and fix. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are worse to bend and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.
If, nevertheless, it is required to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile on a bend, it is warmed up with a construction hairdryer, then given the desired shape and fixed masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue the furniture edge with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edging tape. The first is for those who have glue on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a hair dryer. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edging well against the cut.
A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, can not be glued at all, but basically they are trying to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. The edges are also processed. drawers(not facades).
It is better to use PVC 2 mm for the front ends of the facade and drawers, and PVC 1 mm for the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or "in contrast".
How to glue a piping with glue yourself
The adhesive is applied to the melamine edge, sometimes it is on PVC. If you have chosen PVC, it is easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine is glued simply.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a thick cotton cloth will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A construction hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We put the iron on about "two", while it heats up, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. Warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both with a sharp and a blunt side. Someone uses an ordinary metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.
So, take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic can be easily cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if there is one. This guarantees good result v a short time... The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, you will first go through the cuts with sandpaper, and then carefully dust, degrease. Only then can you glue.
Edging with PVC tape (without glue on the back side)
With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need a universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, we carry out all the actions according to the recommendation. For example, for the Moment glue, it is necessary to apply and distribute the composition to the surface, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To tightly press the edge against the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction float, and fasten felt on its sole. As a last resort, you can collapse thick fabric in several layers and thus press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all weight, pressing it against the surface of the chipboard. At the same time, the movements are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue "seizes". Then you can start processing the edge.
Today we will analyze a more professional technique for gluing an end decorative edge. It is hot-melt edging with a hair dryer. Naturally, not possessing professional equipment, we will disassemble in an amateur manner, accessible to any garage master.
For work, we need a 2 mm PVC edge with hot glue applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a mesh.
It can be purchased at furniture stores footage. If the store does not sell an edge with an applied adhesive layer, then it can be applied in furniture shops for an additional fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles per running meter).
- In addition to the edge itself, we need a thermal gun (aka an industrial hair dryer),
- as well as an edge milling cutter with a molding shaped milling cutter with a ball bearing installed in it.
- Additional elements are a cloth glove (one is enough) and a felt block.
Let's move on to considering the technique itself. It is better to set the hair dryer to medium values (about 300-400 degrees Celsius).
We fix the workpiece on the workbench (horizontally if it is large and vertically in the clamp if it is small). To begin with, we warm up the tip of the edging tape - it should soften a little and acquire elasticity.
While the glue has not hardened, we apply the heated edge to the end of the workpiece. Press the attached edge with a felt block tightly to the part for 10-20 seconds until the glue cools.
Then, directing the flow of hot air into the gap between the part and the edge band, we warm up the last one, 10-15 centimeters in length,
after which we put aside the hair dryer, take a bar and roll the heated tape with sliding movements.
This manipulation is repeated over and over again. In this case, it is not worth overheating the edge (it should not acquire pronounced plastic properties). If only to a minimal extent - the edge starts to reach towards the workpiece - then it’s enough to heat, you need to press it. This moment comes with experience.
It is important not only not to overheat, but also not to underheat. In the first case, the edge will acquire excessive plasticity and can go in waves. In the second case, it simply will not stick.
Now we move on to the next stage, which is rather difficult at first, - this is the processing or pasting of the corner radius (and the outer one is easier to glue than the inner one). I described, >>.
In this case, the edge must be just overheated so that it can be easily molded along the profile to be pasted.
After warming up, when the edge has softened, we quickly press the edge to the surface, trying to come along the entire corner.
At first, it may not work, that is, you must first practice.
After you have glued the entire edge tape, we proceed to remove excess, that is, overhangs. From the ends, you can cut it off with a pruner or simply break it off, having previously scratched it with a sharp object (I usually use 1 method).
The overhangs on the edges are removed with a special edge router.
It is quite problematic to do this manually, due to the large thickness of the edge. The cutter cuts off the excess while at the same time rounding off the remaining edge. 
Excess glue, which is often not removed with a cutter, can be scraped off with a simple metal ruler.
Often, after removing the overhangs, prominent places of "non-gluing".
Personally, I usually get them at the corners. How to deal with them? Again, we take up the hair dryer and warm up the non-glued area from the outside, trying to blow a stream of air into the slot.
Warm up for 5-6 seconds, put the hair dryer aside and press the area tightly with a felt bar to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.
This is usually enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.
Now all that remains is to polish the milled edge, which has a rough structure.
To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the cut edge of the edge.
At the same time, the felt heats up a little, melts the PVC, which smooths out all the irregularities.
And photo finished work(this will be a table top with a rounded corner).
This technique is used even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts, because large stationary automatic edging machines, as a rule, do not have the ability to stick edges on roundings, and not everyone considers it profitable to purchase small specialized units (at least in a furniture workshop, with with whom I cooperate, this is exactly the case).
Joiner's knife. In principle, absolutely any, but not necessarily very sharp. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cutting the laminated layer on the chipboard itself.
But the following details have to be done. Of course, if such gluing of the edge is not an isolated one. So, the guide. The width between the jaws is 18 mm, since standard sheet exactly 16 mm thick.
A bar with a layer of soft fabric. I folded several layers of cashmere from an old coat; such a product has served faithfully for more than one year.
And the knob is just for ease of use.
And the same is on the bar with sandpaper.
True, just it had to be changed several times over the years several times, so short self-tapping screws with a large cap for fixing are just ideal.
That's all, let's get started.
We heat the iron strongly. As we iron the linen, we also warm the edge, and then rub it with effort with a bar with a cloth. It stuck, but its size is larger
therefore, we cut it off with a knife, necessarily from ourselves, and we start from the middle.
So we cut off from all sides. We glue the edge on the other sides of the part.
Now we clean off the remnants with a bar with sandpaper (do not get carried away, it will be enough to hold it once without pressing it). One detail is ready
we do the same with the rest.
Moreover, peeling off this paper edge is as easy as shelling pears: reheat it with an iron and remove the damaged or simply unnecessary paper edge for some reason.
That's all the wisdom.