Every year, a large number of new shoots appear on the gooseberry bush, which not only complicate the harvesting process, but also interfere with the penetration of light. And as you know, this crop is light-loving and with insufficient sunlight it will bear fruit worse and its resistance to diseases will significantly decrease. For these reasons, pruning gooseberries after harvest is very important. And if you want to get a lot of tasty berries every year, and also strive to protect the plant from diseases, then you will have to regularly thin out the plantings.
Autumn pruning of gooseberries will significantly simplify the process of harvesting the future harvest and will not take up much of your time.
Pruning rules
When to prune?
The optimal time for pruning gooseberries is autumn. The thing is that in the spring the plant wakes up and active sap flow begins in its shoots. The buds rapidly swell and just as quickly they turn into young green leaves. And if you don’t guess at the right time for spring pruning, you can seriously harm the plant. In the fall, after the bushes have given you all their berries, their activity gradually decreases, sap flow slows down, and it is at this time that it is recommended to manipulate excess shoots.
Important! Gooseberries need to be pruned only after leaf fall, but always before the first frost arrives!
Early autumn is considered an inappropriate time for carrying out this work due to the fact that at this time the weather often indulges in warm days - thaws, during which the bush can produce several more young shoots. And these young growth, remaining on the bush, will not have time to become covered with dense bark and will simply freeze in winter. For the same reason, gooseberries are not pruned in the summer.
How to trim?
The scheme for autumn pruning of gooseberries is as follows:
- In young one-year-old plants, the shoots are shortened so that the remaining part contains about 4 buds. The speed at which the bush forms will directly depend on how much you prune its branches in the first year of growth. In this case, young branches are cut off by a third, and no more than 4 of the root branches are left, and only those that do not grow in the middle of the bush.
- Until the gooseberries thicken strongly, from time to time it is necessary to remove branches on which fruit ovaries do not form. Such shoots should be cut off almost at soil level and try not to leave stumps.
- In the second year, the branches that formed as a result of growth are again shortened by 1/3, and 8 of the basal branches are left.
- Don't forget to watch the growth of the ends. If during the season the end of the cut shoot has grown no more than 7 cm, then it should be removed without regret to the very base.
On a note! It is very easy to recognize a growing horse - it will have more light color compared to the shade of the shoot at its base!
- In the third year the plant will begin to bear fruit and there will already be about 15 shoots on it of different ages. Here the pruning scheme will be similar to the first year - this year’s branches are shortened by a third, and no more than 4 root branches are left.
- At 5-7 years of life, the bush should have at least 18 shoots of different ages. This is the peak of gooseberry fruiting. From now on, every autumn it is necessary to remove all old branches to the very roots.
- Sometimes on bushes you can find basal shoots that have taken root from the tops - this happens in advanced cases, when the cutting has not been carried out for several years and the tops of the branches hung so low that they could go to the roots. Such shoots must be removed without fail.
- The juiciest berries appear on young shoots - this is a well-known fact. Branches are considered old when they reach 10 years of age; the fruits on them become smaller and over time they completely stop producing crops. And thanks to autumn pruning of gooseberries in the spring, the growth of zero shoots will be activated. To recognize an old branch, you need to pay attention to its bark - on young shoots it will be light, on old shoots it will be darker, and their thickness may be the same.
- At the last stage of gooseberry pruning - at the end of autumn (just before frost), you can cut off excess branches, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and prevent the normal penetration of sunlight.
Upon completion of the work, it is advisable to treat sections with a diameter of more than 8 mm with a healing garden varnish. This way, the plants will return to normal faster after the procedure, and the risk of pathogenic bacteria and fungi entering the wound will disappear.
When and how to do it correctly.
Why do gooseberries need pruning?
IN general outline Everyone knows the answer: if you don’t take care of the bushes, they will quickly turn into thickets. Indeed, gooseberries produce many shoots during the season that need to be organized.
There are others causes, which make such manipulation necessary and regular:
- Heavily overgrown bushes become impenetrable to light, which creates all the conditions for the appearance of and.
- When the branches are tightly intertwined, they become smaller.
- The more branches there are, the less nutrients each shoot receives individually. As a result, productivity decreases.
Important! Incisions are made only above the inner kidney (it is located along inside branches).
- Branches that are too long as they grow simply lie down on the ground and take root. After a year or two, such a “giant” stops bearing fruit and becomes dangerous for other crops: they settle on the shoots and leaves.
When to prune
The most effective is considered to be pruning gooseberries in the spring, before the start of the growing season. By forming still “dormant” branches in the first ten days of March, you will ensure normal growth of the gooseberries and thus “lay in” a good harvest.
But there is one difficulty: sap flow begins very early, literally with the first rays of the spring sun. Not everyone is able to “catch” the right moment and get out on time, but at the end of March - beginning of April, young leaves are already visible. So, we'll have to wait until the fall. It is undesirable to make live cuts; it harms the plant.
Did you know? In Russia, gooseberries have been cultivated since the 15th century. And in the 19th century foreign varieties replaced local varieties- these were mainly productive British lines.
In the summer, only individual branches are removed, and only if they are severely damaged or infected.
A more popular option remains pruning at the end of the season, which is carried out after the leaves have fallen. This event can be called formative and sanitary: the necessary branches are “exposed” and excess shoots are removed. The horizontal and oldest ones are removed first (they are almost black in color).
Garden tools for work
You need some simple equipment: a lopper. They are simple, but there are some nuances here too. Eg, pruners Available with single- or double-sided sharpening. The first include the simplest, similar to, devices. One of their blades acts as a stop, while the second acts as a cutting edge.
Everyone knows how difficult it can be to cut a powerful branch with pruning shears. For such purposes, devices with a ratcheting mechanism are used, which regulates the position of the blade and its stroke. Loppers remove thick (3–5 cm) thorny branches. Essentially, these are the same pruners, but with long handles. They are easier to work with - the handle acts as a lever and transfers a lot of force to the blades, preventing your hands from getting tired.
Important! When buying a pruner, look at the thickness of the blade and supporting lip. If they are made thin, then the tool is only suitable for cutting thin branches, and it simply cannot handle a large shoot.
Note that these two devices do not replace, but complement each other - the pruning shear is ideal for “close combat”, and the lopper completes the work with large branches that are difficult to reach with thorns.
There is also brush cutters, but there is one drawback: they “take” a maximum of 25 mm, and models with one-sided sharpening - even less. In our case, they are only suitable for young bushes.
The requirements for the tool are as follows:
- high-quality sharpening, there should be no “chagging” on the edge;
- light weight;
- ability to work with great effort;
- comfortable handle; the material from which it is made does not matter, the main thing is that it should have rubber inserts that prevent your hand from slipping;
- narrow ends that do not damage neighboring branches;
- safety and bright color - such a device is easy to find in the bush.
Pruning gooseberry bushes depending on age
The amount of work and its nature are assessed taking into account the age of the bush. For different periods, only “their” pruning techniques are suitable, which we will now consider.
In the first year
It all starts before landing. All shoots on a young seedling are shortened. On strong branches leave 3–4 buds from the soil level, on weaker growths 2 will be enough. It happens that branches are damaged due to negligence. They are already hopeless, they are cut out immediately. But this already weakens the bush somewhat. This pruning is aimed at proper nutrition bush and the formation of future skeletal branches.
Over the course of the season, the roots will grow well and sprout new healthy branches. Autumn “intervention” in the first year after planting is kept to a minimum - they inspect whether the branches are healthy and leave 5–6 annual shoots for wintering.
Did you know? 100 g of berries contain only 43 kcal. In addition, there are almost no proteins and fats (0.7 and 0.2 g, respectively)- an excellent and “healthy” product for weight loss.
In the second year
In the spring, up to 5 zero shoots are left; these should be healthy, conveniently located shoots. Weak branches that do not reach 20 cm are cut off completely. This is necessary - small growths only draw nutrients onto themselves, taking them away from more developed ones.
To stimulate branching trim strong branches that grow vertically(to approximately 30 cm from the ground). The same applies to slightly inclined processes. But horizontal branches are removed without regret - no garters will help here.
Important! In autumn, the cuts are treated with garden varnish. Here is one of the recipes for a cold-resistant composition: 60 ml of alcohol and 0.5 kg of tree resin, heated separately, are mixed, adding 2 tbsp. l. linseed oil. It is better to keep the mixture in a closed tin.
With this approach, in the fall, 3 “biennials” and the same number of promising annual shoots will be formed on the bush.
For 3–4 years
This is a time of rapid growth.
In the 3rd year, all weak and horizontal shoots are removed. If observed poor growth and unimportant branching, the remaining ones “revive” shortening by 12–15 cm. By the end of the third season, a healthy bush should have 12–18 branches of different ages. This is the main “skeleton” of the bush.
In the 4th year after planting, the gooseberries are considered already formed, and pruning becomes more moderate. It comes down to the complete removal of young shoots, including those launched from the root collar. Closer to winter, the bush takes on a beautiful raised appearance.
5 or more years
“Five-year plan” is the peak of productivity, when there are up to 30 branches of different ages. It is already difficult for the bush to cope with such a load.
Here rejuvenation is important. In the spring, the bushes are thinned out, removing all the thin branches and leaving only the strong root ones. For very “aged” plantings, there is another, more radical method: they leave only the 5 most powerful branches, removing all the rest. With normal care, such bushes will form again.
As you noticed, the work described above is carried out mainly in the spring. No less important is autumn pruning gooseberries. Here are its basic rules:
- Lighten the bushes. , receiving light in abundance, gives large and delicious berries. If you hesitate with thinning, you risk introducing powdery mildew onto the bushes.
- Pruning is done from the base. It is from this place that old shoots (more than 5 years old) are cut off. If the bush looks “plucked”, do not be afraid - in the spring it will grow again.
- In old plantings, young shoots are removed. Too many of them will lead to their “sterility” or the appearance of small berries.
- The green tops are cut off. They are unlikely to survive the winter.
Pruning a neglected gooseberry bush
Often they abandon processing of outdated bushes. And there are different situations - for example, during 1-2 years of the owner’s absence, relatives do not pay attention to the gooseberries, and they become completely thickened.
“Reanimation” of such plants comes down to the following work:- In the spring, even before the start of the growing season, all weak, diseased, broken and low-yielding branches are removed. They especially thicken the base of the bush, where the shoots look like brushes. From all this mass we will leave 5-6 strong “annuals”.
- If the rescue began in the fall, they try to remove the oldest branches before frost. They are darker than the others and disappear at the base. This ensures fresh growth for spring.
- Dry branches must be removed.
Non-standard ways to form a bush
We already know how standard (aka “classic”) pruning is carried out. But there are other shaping methods that are worth mentioning.
Trellis
For growing vigorous varieties with big amount shoots are being prepared. Here The sequence of this process is:
- Seedlings are placed according to the following scheme: 1.5 m row spacing and 60–70 cm between bushes.
- Supports (tubes, thick rods or branches) are placed at intervals between the rows. The wire is pulled in 3 rows. The first line is 50 cm from the ground, the rest are 80 cm and 1 m.
- Strong branches (up to 5 pieces) are tied to the finished lines, maintaining an interval of 20–25 cm.
- Annual pruning comes down to removing 1/3 of the tips of last year's shoots (less often, half). Leave 4-5 seasonal shoots, not allowing them to thicken.
- As they age, the bush is rejuvenated.
Did you know? These bushes used to be called simply kryzhas or bersenias. In some regions such names can still be heard.
Standard
In a nutshell, this is a method of turning a berry plant into a tree. The work is also quite labor-intensive, but it’s worth it: the bushes look more elegant, harvesting is more convenient, and maintenance is easier - you don’t have to deal with thorns every time.
The scheme for such cultivation looks like this:
- The most powerful vertical shoot from the bush is selected, which will be the “trunk”.
- Select a standard of the required height. Usually this is 1 m. It is to this level that all the lower branches on the trunk are cut. Some wrap it with a meter-long piece of film or insert a tube that does not allow light to pass through - this will eliminate the need for trimming at the base.
- The plant is immediately tied to a peg.
- In subsequent years, 4–5 strong “seasonal” branches are left, while cutting last year’s branches by half. Sick, horizontal, broken or old (7 years or more) are removed. The same applies to the shoots that appear at the base.
We already know about the advantages of this method, but it also has disadvantages. The first is the age of such a “tree”: they select one shoot, but it ages, and 12 years for a standard shrub is the limit. Let's add here and possible problems during wintering - only frost-resistant ones are suitable. Well, the labor costs are a little higher: you will have to “adjust” the pegs and stands several times a season.
You saw how to work with gooseberries so that they please the eye and produce large yields. Now pruning does not represent any secret for our readers. Good luck at the dacha!
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Pruning is an integral part of caring for berry bushes. In particular, manipulation is indicated for gooseberries, which very quickly form new shoots. Behind a short time the crown becomes so dense that it is simply impossible to get inside through the thickets of thorny growth. In addition, fruiting branches receive little light and nutrients, which greatly reduces yield. How and when to prune a bush in the spring to preserve its fertility?
Advantages and disadvantages of pruning gooseberries in spring. When is the best time to prune?
During the season, gooseberries form a lot of shoots, which, without proper care, thicken the bush to such an extent that it resembles a large prickly ball. Only by removing excess growth can you give the plant a decorative appearance.
Besides, spring pruning Gooseberries have a number of other benefits.
- A well-groomed bush is well lit and ventilated, thereby reducing the risk of developing fungal diseases and insect attacks.
- The remaining gooseberry branches receive sufficient quantity moisture and nutrients, resulting in greatly improved yields.
- Manipulation helps prevent chaotic rooting.
- Pruning allows you to give the plant the correct shape, which consists of branches of different ages.
- Thanks to sufficient lighting and the presence of macro- and microelements, young shoots do not stretch.
The main disadvantage of spring pruning is that if the procedure is carried out after the buds begin to swell, the plant will be greatly weakened, which will adversely affect its fertility.
It is preferable to prune gooseberries in the spring before active sap flow begins, otherwise the plant will lose a lot of strength and form a lot of shoots. Gardeners who were unable to prune the bush in the spring do it in the fall, when the leaf fall ends. It is up to each plant owner to determine when it is best to prune the berry bush - in spring or autumn - depending on the climate of the region and their own schedule.
When to prune in spring, in what month, timing
Gooseberries are one of the very first plants to wake up after winter. In most regions, at the end of March and beginning of April, the bush already produces its first leaves. Therefore, it is best to perform pruning immediately after the snow has completely melted and the ground has dried out a little.
Based on these conditions, the optimal time for pruning gooseberries in the spring is early March. Considering weather growing region, more precise dates will have to be determined by the gardener himself.
Important! It is highly undesirable to prune gooseberries after buds begin to bloom. Late manipulation will greatly weaken the plant. If it was not possible to carry out pruning within the recommended time frame, it is postponed to autumn.
General rules and tips for proper spring pruning of gooseberries
Like any garden manipulation, spring pruning of gooseberries should be done according to established rules, otherwise the plant will get sick and bear fruit poorly.
In order for pruning to be beneficial for the plant and not destructive, during work you should adhere to the following recommendations and rules:
- Gooseberries are pruned in early spring, before the buds begin to bloom.
- The cut should be 1 cm above the bud, directed outward. If you trim the branches above the bud directed inward to the crown, it will produce growth that is unsuitable for further growth.
- During pruning, you need to remove all weak and improperly growing branches. Excess shoots will only deprive the bush of strength, which it can direct to setting and forming fruits. In addition, as a result of such gentle pruning, the density of the crown increases, which is why gooseberries are often affected by fungus.
- Branches older than 6-8 years must be removed. Contrary to the misconception of novice gardeners, it is not the old branches that are more fertile, but the young ones.
- Old branches that have stopped bearing fruit are cut back to the place from which they began to grow. Side shoots are cut to zero.
- Rejuvenating pruning of an old bush should be carried out in 2-3 approaches. The total number of branches removed during the season should not exceed 1/3 of the total number of branches. If you remove all unnecessary branches in one go, the gooseberry will be sick for a long time and, most likely, will die.
- To remove thin branches, use sharp pruning shears, and thick ones, use a lopper.
- If the tip of the shoot is too thin, it is shortened to a large bud.
Video: rules for pruning gooseberries in spring
Features of pruning gooseberries by year in spring
Depending on the age of the plant, the gooseberry pruning pattern also changes. This is due to the fact that upon reaching a certain age, branches need to be replaced. In general, pruning throughout the life of the bush looks like this:
- 1st year. The strongest branches are shortened by 3-4 buds, the weaker ones by 2. Damaged branches are cut off. In the fall, the bush is inspected and, if necessary, diseased or damaged branches are removed. 5-6 shoots are left for the winter.
- 2nd year. 5 healthy shoots are left in the crown, and shoots less than 20 cm long are removed. Branches that grow horizontally should also be pruned. To improve branching, skeletal branches are shortened at a height of 30 cm.
- 3-4 years. During the period of active growth, remove all dried or damaged branches from the crown, as well as branches that have drooped significantly. In case of poor growth or slight branching, the length of the main branches is set to 15 cm. Towards the end of the year, the gooseberry crown should consist of 12-18 branches. In the 4th year after planting, young shoots growing in the area or extending directly from the root collar are cut out.
- 5 years or more. At peak yield, the crown of the plant should consist of 30 branches of different ages. Pruning such bushes consists of removing underdeveloped and damaged branches.
To rejuvenate old bush, only 5 powerful young branches are left, and all the rest are cut off. It is better to spread out such rejuvenating pruning several times, so the plant will recover faster from the damage caused.
A very neglected gooseberry bush can be brought back to life by radical pruning - all shoots are cut at a height of 15 cm from the surface of the ground. Thanks to this action, the bush begins to form new shoots.
Worth knowing! It makes no sense to rejuvenate heavily neglected bushes older than 20 years.
Video: spring work pruning for productive gooseberries
Step-by-step instructions and diagram of classic gooseberry pruning in spring
Most gardeners prefer to grow gooseberries in bush form. The formation of a plant into a well-groomed bush is carried out as follows:
- 1st year. The shoots formed over the previous season are pruned to the level of 4-5 buds. 3-4 healthy zero branches are selected in the crown. Shoots whose growth is directed along the horizon or towards the center of the crown are pruned. Poorly developed and diseased branches are also removed.
- 2nd year. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third, and then 3-4 zero shoots are selected from them. After the second pruning, the bush should consist of no more than 8 zero shoots.
- 3-4th year. Pruning is carried out in the same way as in the previous year. The number of zero shoots after the end of the manipulation was 12 in the 3rd year, and 16 in the 4th year.
- 5th year. The number of zero shoots is increased to 20, and then, for the purpose of rejuvenation, several old branches are replaced with young ones. You can distinguish old branches from young ones by the color of their bark: such branches are the darkest.
Non-standard methods of pruning (shaping) gooseberry bushes: trellis and standard
When carrying out annual pruning, many gardeners do not know that during formation the gooseberry can be given the appearance of a trunk. In addition, a strongly growing bush, akin to grapes, is placed on a trellis.
Standard pruning of gooseberries involves giving the bush the shape of a tree.
The formation of gooseberries into a standard is carried out as follows:
- The most powerful branch growing in the vertical direction is selected from the crown.
- Excess branches, as well as branches grown on the trunk, are cut off. In most cases, the length of the trunk is 1 m.
- Growing throughout the season side shoots deleted.
- To prevent the stem from bending, it is tied to a metal support.
In subsequent years, gooseberries are pruned as follows:
- 5 powerful branches are left, and last year’s ones are shortened by half.
- Remove branches whose growth is directed downwards or into the bush.
- They cut off the shoots that have grown around the trunk, and to prevent its formation, trunk circle plants are mulched with crushed bark.
The disadvantage of forming gooseberries into a standard is that the plant is less frost-resistant than when grown in bush form. Since the main shoot ages quickly, the average lifespan of a standard crop is 10-12 years. Therefore, a gardener who practices this type of growing plants needs to take care in advance of replacing aging bushes.
Gooseberries are also grown on a trellis. To do this, two supports are installed near the bush, between which three wires are pulled at a distance of 50, 80 and 100 cm. The spacing between the bushes in the rows is 70-100 cm, the row spacing is 1.5 m.
The formation of a gooseberry bush for growing on a trellis is carried out as follows:
- Select 3-5 powerful branches, shorten them a little and tie them to a wire, and cut off the remaining ones.
- When laid on a trellis, the bush should resemble a fan, so branches located in the center of the crown are shortened more than those directed horizontally.
- To reduce density, cut off zero shoots.
- Starting from the 6th year, the plant is rejuvenated, during which old branches are replaced with young ones.
Bushes growing on a trellis are well lit and ventilated, as a result of which they bear fruit better. In addition, thanks to the vertical position, it is very convenient to collect fruits.
Care after spring pruning
In order for the bush to recover faster, cleaned large sections are covered with garden varnish or a mixture based on mullein. You can prepare putty at home using the following recipe.
- Paraffin and rosin in a ratio of 6:3 are placed in a pan. After the mixture boils, add 2 parts vegetable oil. The mass is boiled for half an hour and then cooled. A brew is also prepared from paraffin, rosin and drying oil (1:1:1).
- 1 part mullein and 2 parts clay are poured into a container and mixed until smooth.
According to reviews from gardeners, wounds treated with such substances do not rot and heal quickly.
Popular mistakes when carrying out the procedure for pruning gooseberries in spring
Beginner gardeners make a lot of mistakes due to lack of experience. In order for pruning to be successful, it is better to become familiar with common misconceptions rather than correct their consequences in the future.
Some of the most popular mistakes that beginners make when pruning gooseberries in the spring include the following:
- annual strong growths are pruned;
- unnecessary pruning of the bush during rejuvenation;
- cut off many young branches, instead of cutting off old branches that have served;
- make cuts above the bud directed inside the bush.
Spring pruning of gooseberries is aimed not so much at improving decorativeness, but at improving its fertility. In order for the manipulation to bring the expected effect, the branches must be removed in accordance with the above recommendations.
Video: pruning gooseberries in spring
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Pruning gooseberries in the fall is a necessary measure to maintain the health of the plant and its successful fertility. As the light-loving shrub grows, it shades itself, creating conditions for the spread of powdery mildew, its berries become smaller, and harvest volumes decrease. The established diseases spread to neighboring plants. Proper pruning Growing gooseberries is not difficult; even a novice gardener can easily cope with it.
How to properly prune gooseberries in the fall to maintain the health of the plant and its successful fertility
When caring for gooseberries and preparing them for winter, it is also important to remember about pruning and thinning the bush. Its main task is to rid the bush of all unnecessary branches that lead to thickening and disease. You need to remove all broken, old, diseased branches and branches growing inside the bush. Particular attention should be paid to removing the lower part of the bush. All shoots that lie on the ground must be removed.
How to prune gooseberries?
Gooseberry is excellent plant, the fruits of which are liked by both adults and children. Plus, today there is a huge number different varieties. Thanks to this, each of us will find what he likes most: sour, sweet, etc.
The peculiarity of gooseberries is that every season it produces a large number of new shoots, which greatly thicken the bush and negatively affect the harvest itself. In addition, a large number of shoots leads to the fact that the plant tissues weaken, and the gooseberry begins to hurt. It is because of this that gardeners recommend removing such thorns every year and correctly forming its crown.
How to prune gooseberries correctly?
When pruning a gooseberry bush, it is important not to damage the fruit bud. To do this, make a cut 5-7 mm above it and at an angle of 45-50 degrees. If you cut a branch close to a bud, the eye will dry out. And if the cut is made too high above the bud, the part of the branch located above the eye will dry out.
It is also necessary to determine in advance where the branch will grow from the bud - outside or inside the bush. The cut should be made above the bud located on the outside of the branch. This will help avoid thickening and ensure good lighting and ventilation of the bush.
When to prune gooseberries?
The most optimal period for pruning plants is autumn. And this is not surprising, since in the spring it very quickly begins to gain strength, as a result of which this procedure can weaken the gooseberry.
But keep in mind that pruning should be done only after the entire crop has been harvested and the first frost has not yet occurred.
In this case, you need to remove mainly dried old branches, but new ones need to be pruned in the spring in order to properly form the bush.
Pruning gooseberries after fruiting
It is no secret that over time, gooseberries grow quite quickly, begin to shade themselves, get sick more often, and their fruiting deteriorates. Therefore, every year, excess branches must be cut off and a bush formed. And already starting from 5-6 years, it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning, removing the oldest (5-6 year old) branches.
Pruning gooseberries after fruiting and harvesting can be divided into two stages:
- Immediately after harvest(even in the summer) deleted withered and diseased branches, i.e. carry out sanitary pruning.
- And rejuvenating and shaping pruning it is customary to carry out gooseberries in autumn, and it is desirable after the leaves fall, but before the onset of frost and stable negative temperatures.
Worth knowing! Basic trimming Gooseberry pruning is usually done after fruiting (in the fall), and in the spring only corrective, or rather sanitary, pruning is done after winter.
Of course, if you did not have the opportunity to prune the gooseberries in the fall, then it is better to prune in the spring than not to prune at all.
Rejuvenating and shaping pruning schemes gooseberries
Scheme of forming pruning of shrubs Pruning gooseberries in autumn: diagram and stages
Gooseberries love to produce a lot of young (“zero”) shoots during the season, which by autumn turn the bush into a “porcupine”. You can’t immediately figure out how to approach such a beast. However, if we remember that 70% of the bush are “zero” shoots that we need to remove, everything falls into place.
- Our task: to lighten the bush. Gooseberries love light, and the more light there is, the larger and tastier the berries will be. This point is critical if you have noticed powdery mildew on fruit this year or earlier. Lighter, thinned bushes suffer less from this dangerous disease.
- We start working from the base of the bush: Unlike currants, whose shoots often grow from underground, gooseberries often have a pronounced growth point, similar to the root collar of roses. It is at this base that it is necessary to remove old (over 5 years old) shoots. Look at which shoots are younger and more promising. Leave only 4-5 such growths. Cut off the rest.
- Rising higher, we remove all “zero” shoots. Most often they are root shoots, which weakens the bush. The older the gooseberry, the more shoots it will produce. Whether to leave some of them to form a younger bush nearby or remove it is up to you to decide. When pruning gooseberries in the fall, we recommend that novice gardeners try different variants on different bushes.
- Remove side shoots which overlap each other, have few buds or are weakened, affected by diseases or pests.
- Trim off the green tops that will not survive the winter.
- At the end of the work, you should end up with a rather scanty bush, which will decrease in volume by 3 times. The main shoots should look up and be parallel to each other. The side branches do not intersect; they also look up or to the side. At the same time, they must be mature, strong, and have enough buds from which new shoots and fruits will appear.
Pruning when growing gooseberries
- Gooseberries have a great restorative ability of shoots. Every year the gooseberries grow new shoots. They thicken the bush, so it has to be systematically thinned out.
- When growing, gooseberry bushes should always maintain no more than 8 - 10 healthy and strong branches. This allows you to maintain good illumination of all areas of the crown.
- The plant does not tolerate shading well, so thickening the crown greatly harms it. Every year, old, weak, fruit-bearing and awkwardly arranged branches are cut out. Poorly located and rubbing gooseberry shoots, some frozen, immature and disease-affected branch tips are shortened to healthy wood.
- If sections of branches are affected by false powdery mildew, after pruning, they are burned and the tools are disinfected.
- Long branches of the gooseberry bush are pruned to 3 - 4 buds above the ground, stunted ones - to 1 - 2 buds. When the branches grow back next season, choose 5 strong and well-placed shoots. They will become the basis of the bush; unnecessary branches are cut off at the very base.
- On next year The bush is supplemented with 3 - 5 more strong branches according to the same pattern. Then the formed gooseberry bush will have 8 - 10 strong branches, which are its crown. In the future, the crown is maintained in order.
- An old, overgrown gooseberry bush has to be cleared in several stages. To begin with, perform sanitary pruning of the bush. Old, dried out, broken, diseased and fallen branches are cut and removed from the crown using sharp pruning shears. Next, they move on to forming the remaining part of the bush, selecting 8 - 10 well-developed and well-placed branches. They will form the basis of the crown of the new bush, all other branches are cut out at the base of the bush at soil level.
Gooseberries should be pruned annually.
As you can see, pruning gooseberries is easy. There is no need to spend a lot of time and effort here, but do not forget that this procedure must be carried out correctly in compliance with the necessary rules.
Video: How to prune gooseberries correctly
Gooseberries are one of those popular shrubs, which can be found on almost any garden plot. This unpretentious crop does not require complex care; you just need to form the bush correctly and trim it in a timely manner.
Why and how to prune gooseberries
Pruning is affordable and effective way care for many trees and shrubs, with which you can solve a large number of problems - from low yields to crown formation for decorative purposes. For gooseberries, given the peculiarities of their structure, regular pruning is a necessary condition proper development and maintenance of life. You should not neglect this event if you want to grow a healthy, viable plant and get a high-quality harvest.
With proper care, one gooseberry bush can produce up to 20 kg of berries.
Reasons for pruning
The reasons why gardeners resort to pruning gooseberries may be as follows:
- Rejuvenation of plantings. A gooseberry bush that has reached the age of 8 years is considered old. To extend its life and maintain fruiting, gardeners often resort to anti-aging pruning. The fact is that the root system of the bush and its above-ground parts are in a proportional relationship. Removing part of the shoots or shortening them stimulates a strong flow of energy from the roots to the branches, which, in turn, form new stems that have dense foliage and are capable of abundant flowering.
- Increased productivity. Gooseberries are distinguished by their ability to form a large number of new shoots in a relatively short time. If they are not thinned out, the crown will become too thick, which will negatively affect pollination and fruit set. Ridding gooseberries of excess branches and creating a well-ventilated crown will make pollination more accessible and efficient.
- Preventive measures. Gooseberries, like other garden crops, are susceptible to various diseases, the cause of many of which is excessive thickening of the bush (especially fungal diseases). Pruning will provide all shoots with good ventilation, a sufficient amount of sunlight and will help avoid or reduce contact of healthy branches with diseased ones.
- Crown formation. Pruning for this purpose is carried out in several stages and is necessary measure to ensure favorable development of the bush.
Basic tools
To prune gooseberries, you will need pruning shears and loppers. It is better to carry out work in cotton work gloves to protect yourself from thorns or accidentally cut yourself on the tool.
Try to use tools that meet the following requirements:
- Quality and durability. The tool should not break when applying great force (for example, when cutting thick branches).
- High quality sharpening. The blade of the tool must be sharp and free of nicks and other defects.
- Light weight. Working with such a tool is much more convenient than with a heavy one. This will allow you to do a lot of work and save energy.
- Comfortable handle. Besides suitable shape, the handle should also have special rubberized inserts, thanks to which your hands will not slip.
If possible, try to purchase a red or orange color- it will be clearly visible on the ground and will not get lost in the green thickets.
Secrets of pruning gooseberries
For your gooseberries to develop the best way, you must first correctly form the shrub (familiarity with its structure will help you do this), and then regularly carry out actions aimed at maintaining this shape.
Bush structure
Gooseberries form a perennial bush, reaching a height of 1.5 m. A crown of approximately the same diameter is formed from branches and root shoots of different ages. The latter grow from those stem buds that are located at the base of the bush. The root collar is the part of the trunk immersed in the soil. Typically, it is about 30 cm long and about 5 cm in diameter.
By autumn, the basal green shoots will be covered with bark and become full-fledged branches.
In the first year of life, the basal shoots are characterized by intensive growth; by mid-summer they change their green color to reddish or brown. By autumn, the young stems will become woody, and in the second year of life, shoots will appear on them. This is how the branches that form the basis of the bush are formed. Each year a growth is formed on them, reaching a length of 8 to 30 cm. Over the summer it will acquire bark, become lignified and become a full-fledged second-order branch. New shoots will also appear on it, which will later turn into third-order stems, etc.
As a rule, the branches of the first, second and third order are characterized by the greatest fruiting, since they are the most developed and strong. Thanks to regular pruning, you can ensure the constant renewal of such shoots, and therefore maintain their vitality and productivity.
When pruning gooseberries, you must try to completely remove low-yielding branches of the 4th and 5th order in order to stimulate the development of productive branches of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd order
Keep in mind that due to the special structure of the root system, gooseberries form horizontal (basal) shoots, which also need to be removed regularly.
Bush formation
The amount of work to form the crown depends on the age of the bushes.
First year
You need to start pruning from the moment the gooseberry seedling is planted in the ground. In this case, no damage should be caused to the fruit bud, so make cuts at an angle of 50°, 5 mm above it.
- Inspect the seedling and trim off any weak or damaged stems.
- Tame the remaining shoots to the third or fourth bud (count from the soil level).
Don’t be afraid to carry out the pruning procedure on a young seedling: one of the features of gooseberries is the rapid growth of new shoots. Over the summer, your bush will not only get stronger and form root system, but will also acquire a large number of stems again.
Second year
By the beginning of autumn, your shrub should have about 3 two-year-old branches and the same number of annual ones. To do this, trim as follows:
- Select no more than seven of the most viable and conveniently located shoots growing from the ground (root collars), and try to trim them so that they reach a height of about 30 cm.
- Trim the remaining branches so that their length does not exceed 20 cm.
- Remove horizontal shoots and shoots that have not reached 20 cm in length at the time of pruning so that they do not draw on the nutrients necessary for the development of stronger branches.
Third year
In the third year after planting, the gooseberry should have approximately 12–18 branches of different ages, which form the base of the bush. To achieve this, take the following steps:
- Again, completely remove all horizontal growth, as well as non-viable weak shoots.
- Trim the remaining branches by 12–15 cm, counting from the top, especially if there is poor growth and slow development of the plant.
In the first year after planting, the branches are cut by about 1/2, in the second - by 1/3, in the third - the tops are shortened and horizontal shoots are trimmed.
Fourth and subsequent years
In the fourth year after planting, the gooseberry bush becomes mature and begins to produce the maximum amount of harvest, so the formation procedure should not be neglected during this period. Pruning activities should include the timely removal of twisted and non-viable branches. It is also necessary to cut out young shoots, including those launched from the root collar, in order to prevent the growth of horizontal shoots, because gooseberry branches must be raised above the ground.
The bush should consist of 15–20 stems of different ages. Branches older than 5 years should be removed, and 3–5 of the strongest shoots should be left from the root shoots.
An adult gooseberry bush should have 15–20 branches no older than 5 years
Don't forget to feed the plants after pruning. To do this, dig a trench about 30 cm deep and add fertilizer to it, and then bury it.
- In the spring, feed the gooseberries with nitrogen fertilizers (dosage 50–70 g per bush).
- In the fall, fertilize the bush area (it covers a distance of about half a meter in circumference from the bush) with peat chips or compost.
Anti-aging pruning
When the gooseberry reaches the age of 7–8 years, you will need to carry out anti-aging pruning of the bush. In this case, you can remove a maximum of 1/3 of the branches.
- Cut out old, twisted, weak, diseased shoots, leaving only the strongest and most developed basal stems.
- On the remaining branches, check the top. If you find a defective one (for example, dried out or broken), cut it off in the area of the first strong lateral shoot.
Timely removal of dried or blackened tops has a beneficial effect on the healthy part of the branch
If your gooseberry is very old (for example, it is 10 years or more), then rejuvenating pruning will be more radical. You will have to cut out all the branches from the base, leaving only the 5 strongest and most developed. After such pruning with proper and timely care the bush will quickly become covered with new shoots and gain strength. It is advisable to carry out rejuvenation in spring period so that over the summer the bush can get stronger and form fresh shoots.
The rejuvenation procedure for very old shrubs over 20 years old, as a rule, is not carried out.
Pruning a neglected bush
Sometimes gardeners give up caring for gooseberries, for example, due to their age, or simply do not pay attention to the bush. This leads to thickening of the berry garden, which means a decrease in its yield. In addition, such a plant is susceptible various diseases and can easily infect other crops. Pruning will help you prevent this situation.
Keep in mind that on full recovery A neglected shrub will take two to four years.
- First, thin out the bush. To do this, cut out all old blackened branches to the ground, as well as broken, bent shoots and horizontal growth.
- Of the vertical shoots, leave the 5 most viable ones. From productive branches, cut off the dried tops to the first strong lateral branch.
- In the future, regularly prune your gooseberries according to general rules to maintain the shape of the crown and prevent re-thickening of the bush.
Seasonal pruning of the bush
Pruning is carried out twice a year - in spring and autumn periods. The procedure cannot be carried out in the summer, because the gooseberry quickly forms a large number of new branches, so the procedure will be useless.
Spring
Spring pruning of gooseberries is carried out even before the buds bloom on the bush. Gooseberries awaken very early - as a rule, buds begin to swell on them already in the second half of March, and the first leaves appear at the end of March - beginning of April. If you want to prune in the spring, then it is important to do this before the sap begins to flow in the trunk - if possible, in the first ten days of March. It is not recommended to injure shoots with blossoming leaves - this will significantly weaken the plant, and therefore reduce its yield.
- Remove old branches (as a rule, they are almost black) and horizontal growth.
- Thin out the bush: cut off non-viable and defective (twisted, broken) stems. Clean the center of the bush well from young, weak shoots and barren, vigorous branches.
- Cover large cuts. For this purpose, use garden varnish.
Video: spring pruning of gooseberries
Autumn
If you do not have the opportunity to prune gooseberries in the spring, then you can do it in the fall. It is not recommended to carry out shortening pruning in early autumn: this can affect the growth of new shoots, which will not have time to become woody before the onset of cold weather and will die. Therefore, autumn pruning is carried out during the period beginning after the harvest and the fall of leaves and continuing until the onset of cold weather.
- Inspect the bush and completely remove all blackened shoots.
- Thin out the bush: eliminate non-viable and defective branches (bent, diseased, broken), as well as inconveniently located ones (for example, protruding strongly from the general bush or hanging low above the ground). Try to clear the middle of the bush as much as possible to get rid of newly formed shoots and low-yielding, vigorous branches.
- Be sure to use a garden varnish to cover large cuts.
Remember that the maximum number of cut branches should not exceed 1/3 of their total number.
Video: autumn pruning of gooseberries
Pruning gooseberries does not pose any difficulties and can be done even by a novice gardener. The main thing is to carefully and timely follow all the recommendations for carrying out this event, and the bush will respond to this with health and a bountiful harvest.