Outdated or not working cookers over time, they change to modern models with advanced functionality. Installation separately standing appliance not difficult - just plug the supplied plug into the socket. The difficulty arises when choosing a built-in surface. User connection requires basic skills and knowledge. In the review, we will study step by step how to properly connect the device, and the basic requirements for power supply.
To begin with, we prepare the place where the induction cooking equipment will be connected - it is better to prepare the outlet in advance. For safety reasons, select a grounding device. For the outlet, you will have to lay a separate branch from the shield, and connect it to the RCD circuit breaker... They are laying to him copper wire with a cable section of at least 4 mm². Depending on the type of outlet, the cable is chosen three- or four-core.
When choosing a location, consider the following points:
- install the device without distortions, on a flat surface;
- it is not recommended to place the device higher than the dishwasher;
- foresee place for ventilation- the hob must not overheat;
- provide a small gap between mating vertical surfaces and back wall device;
- it is recommended to place the device.
Necessary equipment and tools
To connect the electrical panel, prepare the following equipment:
- screwdriver, knife;
- connecting cable, designed for surface power (4-6 sq. mm);
- clip adapter;
- tester for checking the correspondence of the phase of the connection to the colors of the wire.
The set includes, as a rule, a cable consisting of four main wires, indicating:
- phase (black and Brown),
- zero (blue),
- ground (yellow-green).
Note! The device is connected through a separate RCD circuit breaker, to which other household appliances are not connected.
Number of phases
The installation of all new models of European production is designed to connect equipment to the network with different amounts phases. There are two standards in our houses: a three-phase network with 380 V and a single-phase network with 220 V. The choice of the required connection scheme depends on the electrical wiring in the house.
The standard hob layout is presented terminal group, consisting of five items, marked for convenience with numbers, and one ground, which is indicated by the icon:
In electrics, the following conventions are used:
- phases are designated as L1, L2, L3;
- zeros - N1 and N2;
- earthing with PE marking.
Having dealt with the wiring diagrams and wires, you need to study the instructions. The manufacturer's recommendations show all connections and detail the main installation steps. After the chosen scheme, we proceed to practice.
Connecting the unit to a single-phase network
This type of connection is used when a wire emerges from the wall consisting of of three veins... To install the panel, follow these steps.
- Use a screwdriver to unscrew the metal plate on the back of the panel.
- Using jumpers (they are supplied with the device) connect the terminals numbered "1", "2", "3" and connect the phase wire (brown, black or white).
- Connect the blue wire to the zeros (contacts numbered "4", "5").
- Connect the green-yellow wire to the protective terminal.
- Replace the device and tighten the screws securing the connecting cable.
- Check the tightness and tightness of the connection, as well as the functionality of the kitchen hob.
Before installing any brands of cooking equipment (panelsA eg, Bosch, Siemens, Electrolux, Hansa, Samsung and others), on the cable of which there is a plug, first, the contacts and power wires inside the outlet are checked for compliance. In some devices, they differ - in this case, we disassemble the outlet. We determine the correspondence of the connection using a special multimeter. The wires can be swapped if necessary.
Connecting the device to a three-phase 380 V network
A cable is used to install the device with five veins, which has the following parameters: 3 phases, protective earth and zero.
The induction hob should be installed in the following sequence:
- We connect the 1st phase wire (black, white or brown) to the terminal under the number "1", the next one under the second number, and the remaining one to the "3" terminal.
- A jumper connects the terminals numbered "4" and "5", and to them - the neutral wire (as a rule, of blue color).
- Connect a yellow-green wire to the “grounding” terminal of the pe marking.
Note! The order of connecting the phase to the contacts of the device is not so essential, that is, it does not matter what color the user connects the first wire.
How to connect the plug to the cable
If the plug has four contacts, then when connecting, they must be connected to the marked colored conductors of the cable. However, there is another option. In the event that the socket is three-pin, a problem arises - four cores in the presence of 3 contacts. The way out is simple - we twist the black and brown wires from the phase together and connect to the "Phase" contact.
Summing up, I would like to note that the installation of the hob is connected with electricity, so certain skills will be needed during installation. The safety of people also depends on a competent connection. If there is the slightest doubt, it is better to entrust the connection of the equipment to professional craftsmen. The same rule applies to elimination. is possible only with the appropriate knowledge and experience in repairing equipment.
When buying a freestanding kitchen electric stove, in most cases, to connect it, you just need to plug the plug into the outlet. But many do not full set, but only its upper part is the hob.
We propose to consider how to make a connection with your own hands hob Electrolux (Electrolux), Zanussi, Bosch (Bosch), Gorenje, Hansa, Samsung (Samsung), Siemens, Ariston and others, as well as the cost of such a connection in specialized companies.
Panel connection theory
The built-in hob is connected to a separate line with an outlet capable of withstanding a current of 32 to 40 A and providing a reliable earthing. The lead-in cable contains three copper wires with a cross-section of at least 4 mm². Modern electrical wiring in the apartment also allows connection to a four-wire power cable.
There are two types of sockets for connecting panels:
If you independently connect the hob with the existing plug at the end of the cable, then this will not be difficult. But to connect to the mains cable from the stove, where there is no plug at the end, you already need some knowledge.
For example, a cable with four cores leaves the panel, and only three power wires come out of the wall. This means that the panel needs a two-phase connection, but there is only one in the apartment.
In this case, the technology is as follows: the brown and black wire from the cable from the hob is twisted together and connected to the phase wire, the power line, that comes out of the wall. The blue wire of the cable (neutral) is connected to neutral wire nutrition. What remains is the yellow-green protective ground wire, it is connected to the same ground wire in the power line.
In the event that wires of the same color leave the wall, using a multimeter, you need to find out which of them is zero and which phase, and determine the integrity of the grounding conductor. The resulting wire connection must be insulated.
Before connecting a hob that already has a plug on the cable, it is imperative to check the correspondence between the power wires and the contacts inside the socket. Sometimes they can be different. To do this, the socket is disassembled, and with the help of a multimeter, the correspondence of the connection is determined, if necessary, the wires are interchanged.
- Connecting an electric hob implies the installation of a separate circuit breaker and an RCD, these devices are selected with the following calculation: for a 16 A socket you need circuit breaker for a current of 25 A, and an RCD of 40 A. It is unacceptable to use the panel power line at the same time to connect several power devices.
- The body of the hob must be grounded, and not to the body or a wire from another appliance, but to the outlet terminal, with a separate wire from the hob.
- Already most manufacturers sell equipment that is equipped with a protective grounding bus, it just needs to be connected to the grounding wire in the apartment.
Induction panel: connection step by step
Connecting the induction hob to the network does not fundamentally differ from the installation of a conventional hob, to be sure of this, below is presented step-by-step instruction... Let's consider how the induction panel is connected to the mains.
Photo: installation of an induction hob Step 1. There are 2 types of power cords: three-core, early version, and four-core, more new variant... To connect a flush-mounted panel, you need to purchase a power cord that matches your power outlet in the kitchen.
Step 2. Open the connection cover. Search on back side panels a rectangle closed with a metal plate. Unscrew it with a screwdriver.
Step 3. We connect the cord and terminals.
After removing the back cover, you need to find the terminals of the device. Insert the strain relief first into the hole. We hold the cord with a plate. This is to prevent the wire from falling out. Then run the cord through the strain relief. Do not tighten the screws yet.
Step 4. Remove the copper plate.
Find the wires just above the hole. If an old-style induction cooker is connected, then there should be three wires, if new model, then there will be four wires: two phase, one neutral and one ground.
The neutral terminal is located in the center, the phase conductors are on either side of it, and the earth terminal is at the bottom. Before starting to connect the wires, you need to check if there is a copper jumper connecting the neutral and ground wires. If you find it, just disconnect it.
Step 5. Connect the wires.
Align the wires with the terminals. The cable is connected to the panel with a brown phase wire, a blue neutral wire and a green-yellow ground wire.
To connect the wires, you will need to unscrew the terminal connection screws and install the wire in their place.
The first is to connect the ground, this is a yellow-green wire. Then neutral (blue wire). After that, we connect the brown phase wire to one of the two phase terminals. Between the two phase terminals, we install a copper jumper, which we removed from the neutral wire. This connection is suitable for apartments where the supply voltage is 220 V. Tighten the screws securing the supply cable.
Check the strength of all connections, otherwise the machine will not withstand and you will need to repair not only the terminal block of the induction panel, but also all the wiring.
Step 6. Tighten the power cable.
After connecting, check if the power cable is taut, it should not hang, but it should not be overtightened either.
Step 7. Switching on the induction hob.
After connecting the power cable and applying voltage to it, turn on the panel and check its operability, in accordance with the passport data.
For correct work and convenient control induction hob an electronic control system is used, in contrast to the gas hob, where the adjustment is carried out by mechanically turning the shut-off valve. This solution is quite convenient and functional. You can monitor in real time the mode of each cooking sector of the panel.
Video: installing and connecting the hob
The price for connecting the hob to the mains supply of the apartment in specialized stores in cities such as Minsk, Moscow, Omsk, Orenburg, Penza, Samara can vary from 500 to several thousand rubles, depending on the city and the complexity of the work. But as you can see self-connection This technique does not require special knowledge and is easily performed from a photo, even without work experience.
Built-in hobs are rightfully considered a worthy alternative to bulky electric stoves. But for many owners, the need to connect technology becomes a stumbling block. If you want to solve a problem without resorting to the help of professionals, you will have to understand the intricacies of the process. How the hob is connected to the mains and what points should be taken into account when performing work, we will consider in the article.
The main points of connecting the device to the power supply
In terms of power, the hob can be safely equated to electric stove... Therefore, the connection of this device should be performed not to a 220 V network, but to power line at 380 V. For this, a separate line is provided from the switchboard. According to the requirements of the PUE:
- with a single-phase network - use a copper cable with a cross section of 6 mm 2;
- with three-phase - choose a wire from that material, but with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 and higher.
Please note that several power devices cannot be connected to one line at the same time. To protect it from leakage current at the input, install differential automaton or an RCD with a rating of 32 A or 40 A.
The technology for connecting the hob to the outlet directly depends on the type of electrical appliance. Dependent panels are connected simultaneously with the oven. Models with rapid heating zones assume wiring for each heating point. Connection of "independent" models is carried out through the "crab" installed at the inlet, from which all heated sections are powered.
Models induction type connecting on your own is extremely problematic. It is better to entrust this work to professionals. Combined models cannot be connected independently. This must be done by licensed power engineers and gas workers.
Selection of the necessary components
It is impossible to independently connect the hob without a set of necessary accessories. For this purpose, you will need the following materials:
- power cable VVGng-Ls or NYM;
- power outlet and plug;
- tips NSHVI 4,0-10.
The rating of the RCD for a single-phase network must be 32 A (with a rated current of 32 A and a differential current of 30 mA). For three-phase networks, an RCD with a rated current of 25 A and a differentiated current of 30mA is chosen, mounting an automatic machine for 16 A.
Sockets and plugs for electric stoves (Fig. 1).
When purchasing a socket for the hob (Figure 1), take into account that the parameter of the rated current of the device is not lower than the current of the machine: for a single-phase - at 32 A, for a three-phase - at 16 A.
Hobs often come without a power cord. This is due to the fact that devices can be connected according to several schemes, which involve the use of three to six wires. If these are not provided in the equipment configuration, then you will need to additionally purchase a couple of meters of wire. For this purpose, PVS is quite suitable: for a single-phase network - 3x4 mm 2, for a three-phase network - 4x2.5 mm 2.
Hob connection diagrams
Hob terminal block (Fig. 2).
The technology for connecting an electrical appliance depends on the type of electrical network provided in the house. In buildings of an obsolete model, these are single-phase networks for 220 V, in modern houses- three-phase analogs for 380 V. Almost all modern models of hobs can be connected to both single-phase and three-phase networks (Fig. 2).
Before connecting the hob to a power outlet, it is important to ensure that the housing is grounded. Many electrical appliances are already available with built-in busbars. The task of the master is simply to connect them with a ground wire.
Attention!!! Before starting any work with the wiring, the line must be de-energized.
Single-phase version
To correctly connect the hob to the outlet, you should be guided by the color coding. If a single-phase network has two conductors, the insulation of which is painted in the same color, it will not be difficult to determine the phase using a screwdriver equipped with an LED or a tester. In a three-wire network, the core insulation is most often colored: "phase" - brown / red, "zero" - blue / blue, "ground" - green-yellow.
The panel has 6 terminals: 3 phase "L1-L3", 2 neutral "N1-N2" and 1 grounding "PE". In single-phase networks, the most common option is as follows:
- Phase "L" - is connected simultaneously to the terminals "L1-L3". For this, two copper jumpers included in the complete set for the electrical device are installed between the terminals.
- Phase "N" - connected to terminals "N1-N2".
- "PE" - the protective conductor is connected to the "PE" terminal.
To gain access to the terminals, you need to unscrew the back cover of the appliance. The panel with leads can rise above the surface or be recessed into it. The cores of the cable are connected in series to the terminals. Check the reliability of the lock, excluding the possibility of tension. Having connected the plug, turn on the circuit breaker and check how each of the burners works for 3-5 minutes.
Connection to a two-wire network is carried out in one of two ways:
- By laying a separate earth circuit.
- By connecting without using the "ground" output.
Installation of the ground loop is relevant if you plan to keep the manufacturer's warranty. Indeed, in the event of a breakdown of equipment, even as a result of a factory defect without grounding, it will be invalid.
The subtleties of connecting to a three-phase network
When connecting the equipment with a 5-core wire to a three-phase 380 V network, the jumper will be required only on two neutral wires "N1-N2". The phase wires are directly connected to each phase. If you have to work with a 4-core wire, one phase on the outlet is simply not used. The conclusion that corresponds to it in the outlet itself is also not used.
The color of the braid will help to determine the type of cores:
- "Phase" - green / red / yellow or brown / black / white;
- "N" - blue or light blue;
- "PE" is the usual green-yellow color.
In addition to visual definition for the reliability of the wire, it is better to "ring out" and sign by hanging tags.
There are situations when you have to connect to a two-phase 380 V. In this case, they work according to a scheme that involves the combination of two phases and two neutrals. Since the power is evenly distributed to both phases, you can combine them through the ferrule, or simply push one core to the side and insulate it. All other conductors are connected to the contacts of the plug, focusing on polarity.
If at the time of connection there were no jumpers at hand, you can make them yourself. The main thing is to use 6 mm 2 copper wire.
For flexible stranded wires, in order to ensure better contact with the clamp, it is convenient to use fork-type lugs or their insulated ring counterparts. The tips are pushed onto bare ends lived with press tongs.
How to connect a hob without an outlet
Junction boxes (Fig. 3).
If desired, the connection can be made "directly", making it without detachable. For this, a terminal box is installed at the end of the line (Fig. 3). On one side of the box, a wire from an electrical appliance is wound up, and on the other, a supply cable. Most of those on sale modern models terminal boxes are applicable for both 220 V and 380 V networks.
To make the connection, the wires are inserted into the holes on the side of the box, remembering to observe the polarity. If you have to connect 220 V, the extra phases are thrown back and isolated. Bare ends brought into the cavity of the box are tightened with bolts and “terminated” by means of clamps. If you wish, you can even tin and roll them into a ring.
Adhering to the basic recommendations listed above, the independent connection of the electrical appliance, even for a novice master, will not cause any particular difficulties.
The hobs are divided into 3 classes, depending on how the work surface is heated. Combined and electric models must be connected to the electric / network. Let's figure out how to do this, depending on the characteristics of the home and the place of installation.
- To connect the hob, a separate line is mounted inside the apartment (room). It is impossible to connect other electrical devices (in parallel) to this circuit.
- It is advisable to lay a separate cable (stranded wire) from the power panel. In this case, the panel will be completely "decoupled" from the general electrical wiring. Sometimes it is allowed to connect the device to an existing line, although this is undesirable. Why?
Firstly, you will have to take into account the degree of deterioration and the cross-section of the conductors of the wires - that's for you. The hob is a device with increased electric power. This characteristic must be specified in his passport. In order for the wiring to be guaranteed to withstand, its "quadrature" must be designed for a load exceeding the calculated one by at least 2 times.
On a note!
To find out what section of the wires are brought into the apartment, you do not need to disassemble and look at something. For example, remove the front panel (cover) from the light switch. By the way, the most common mistake is when the owner determines the characteristics of the electric / circuit in this way. The fact is that a wire with conductors of one section can be brought into the house, and another can be approached to the switch (outlet) from the terminal box (this happens quite often). It is necessary to see what kind of "quadrature" the wires extending from the meter - then there will definitely not be an error.
Secondly, there are other appliances in the house that can work simultaneously with the panel. Therefore, we are already talking about the total power. It is impossible to foresee all the features of the operation of equipment, accidents, unforeseen circumstances, especially for the future. For example, the purchase of some other electronic device. This is an additional argument in favor of laying a separate cable.
* Approximate panel power (kW) is indicated in brackets.
The circuit without fail includes devices (and separate, not involved in other lines): RCD and circuit breaker. The rating is selected in accordance with the value of the consumed current, multiplied by 1.5.
Connection options and diagrams
Here we will not consider the nuances associated with the execution of sockets and plugs - we focus on purely electrical connections. It should be noted that the types of terminal blocks may differ for different models but the connection principle is the same.
But first, a few points:
- If the dimensions of the pins of the plug and the socket of the socket do not match (this happens), then you need to purchase a new one. Any attempt to "expand" something will lead to unreliable contact and increased arcing. What's next is clear.
- It makes no sense to purchase an outlet for the panel "euro" personally and to install it in houses with single-phase power supply of apartments. In such buildings, there is no connection to the common building ground loop, which means that there is no corresponding wire either.
Single phase circuit
In most of our apartments, it is exactly like that. But the hob cable is often stranded, without a plug. How to proceed? The "zero" of the apartment is connected to the corresponding conductor of the device (usually blue or blue).
The wires of the "power" panel (to be specified according to the scheme, usually brown, black) are twisted and connected to the phase of the apartment. In the photo option:
If the model with a "euro" plug is connected to a regular outlet, then a special adapter is used. Available for sale, within 45 - 60 rubles.
On a note! In many houses internal wiring is made with a stranded wire, so they stick out of the wall of the same color. You can determine the phase and zero.
Connection to 380 V three-phase circuit
Some models are designed for this. Applied to a private house, it is quite convenient.
Peculiarities:
- It is recommended to use "PVS-5" (or similar) 4 "square" wire.
- Need to check terminal block device. If there are jumpers between contacts 1 - 2 - 3 (based on connection to 1 f), then they should be removed.
The photo shows typical switching options depending on the characteristics of the circuit.
As already indicated, a "own" line is laid for the panel. If possible, it is better to connect it directly, without an outlet, especially since the product is not a “mobile” device that is constantly being rearranged from place to place (for example, like a coffee grinder). The cable can be “disconnected” directly at the terminal block.
The logic is simple. The socket is a conventional contact block in a plastic case. Each connection is, in perspective, a "bouquet" of problems. It sparks, then there is no contact. Another thing is how to disconnect from the circuit, for example, if you want to wash the product? The answer is simple - you can de-energize the circuit by moving the switch of the circuit breaker to the lower position.
If there are other Appliances which are connected to ground, it is forbidden to "parallel" the product with them. For him, by analogy with the power wire, his own "ground" is laid.
When installing the power cable, a 4-core wire must be laid. 2 will be involved (phase, zero), and 2 more will be spare. Alternatively, 1 of them will be used for grounding (if possible to connect to the loop).
Some houses already have installed sockets to connect. But how the wires are connected to them is a big question. Do not rely on the electrician doing everything right. High-class apartment specialists do not walk and do not fasten wires sticking out of the wall to the sockets - they do more complex work.
Therefore, make sure that the connection is correct! That is, will the phase contact (pin) of the plug of the device coincide with the same socket of the socket? Or is there a ground wire attached to it? There is no need to be guided by the color of the insulation - check only with a "probe".
The author draws the attention of the dear reader to the fact that all the advice and recommendations given in the article are general character, since it is unrealistic to take into account all the nuances of a specific structure, deterioration of wires, network characteristics and many other factors. Therefore, it is necessary to start the connection not only with a detailed acquaintance with the manufacturer's instructions, but also with the study of the features of the electrical / wiring in your home.
And yet - there is no need to explain that any electronic devices are characterized by increased danger. If you are not confident in your abilities and at least basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, it is better not to try to invent something, but to sit down and think. Which is cheaper - to pay for the connection to a specialist or to eliminate the consequences of a fire (and this is at best)?
Bosch hobs, both gas and electric, have proven to be excellent in modern kitchens... In order for the panel to serve for a long time and regularly please its owners, it must be correctly connected. It is better to entrust the commissioning of the gas hob to a specialist. gas service so as not to endanger the life and health of those who are around. If your choice is an electric stove, then, having minimal skills in working with a screwdriver, you can cope with connecting the bosch hob yourself. The guidelines in this article will help you.
Bosch panel owners are pleased to note the benefits of their purchase:
- reliability,
- high functionality;
- safety;
- profitability;
- ease of use;
- ease of keeping clean;
- beauty and elegance.
Therefore, if you connect such a panel correctly, then you will use it for a long time and with pleasure!
Preparing furniture for a built-in hob
Most often, a hole in the countertop under the slab is cut out during the manufacture kitchen set... But if you need to prepare the furniture yourself, don't be embarrassed. Any person who knows how to hold a jigsaw can handle this work.
Marking a niche for a hob must be done, taking into account that at least 50 mm should remain from its edge to the contour of the tabletop. Holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the corners of the marking. With an electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed nail file, lines are neatly cut through the wood from one hole to another. In this case, the jigsaw must be firmly pressed against the tabletop.
The edges of the cut out niche need process silicone sealant ... After that, fasteners-clips are screwed to the cuts. Having prepared the furniture, you can start connecting the electricity.
Electrical wiring requirements
Electric hob should connect to dedicated outlet with sufficient level grounding. For such an outlet, you will have to lead a separate branch from the panel and be sure to connect it to a separate 32 A machine. The cable laid to the outlet must be copper with a conductor cross-section of at least 4 mm². Depending on the type of socket chosen, the cable can be three - or four-core.
How to choose an outlet?
How to connect the hob to your home's electrical supply? For this, it is important to choose the right
- outlet;
- a plug;
- cable.
The electricity in your apartment has one phase and 220 volt input? Then you need a socket and a three-prong plug.
You have purchased equipment for the kitchen of a modern private house, which has two phases and 380 volt electrical input? Then, to evenly distribute the load, it is better to connect the hob to two phases. In this case, a socket and a plug with four contacts are used.
In the first case, the blue wire (zero) is connected to the left contact, black or brown (phase) - to the right. The green / yellow ground wire is attached to a pin located usually below or above the base pair.
In case of connection four-pin socket you need to be guided by the marking of the cores on the outlet cover. Be careful! Sockets from different manufacturers differ in their design.
Important! It is necessary to check in advance that the presence of the phase matches the colors of the wire. A tester is used for this.
How to connect the cable to the panel?
Regardless of which outlet you have to install, the cable to connect to the hob must be four-core. The cable cores are connected to the terminals of the electrical connector box, which is located on the back of the plate. Remove the cover from the box by first unscrewing the bolts.
Each hob has a diagram for connecting it to electrical network... The contacts of the terminal box are marked on it. Consider carefully wiring diagram... Phase (brown and black wires), zero (blue wire) and ground (yellow-green) must each be connected to its own terminal strictly according to the figure. Pay attention to carefully connecting the wire core to the terminal contact.
Important! Check again that the wires are correctly positioned before closing the cover.
Connecting the plug to the cable
With a four-pin plug, everything is clear. The color-coded conductors of the cable are connected according to the instructions on the plug cover, corresponding to the socket contacts. But what about three-pin socket when four wires need to be connected to three contacts? To do this, two phases (black and brown wires) must be twisted together and connected to the "phase" contact.
Without plug and socket
Sometimes the hob directly connected to the electrical circuit, without plug and socket. This is possible because the panel is stationary equipment and the need to connect and disconnect the stove appears extremely rarely. However, the ability to turn off the stove at any time for maintenance or repair, rearrangement or replacement kitchen furniture may be useful. Plus, plug and socket connectivity is safe, convenient and beautiful.
Replacing the panel
The electrical part of the work is done. It's time to put the panel back in place. It is necessary to carefully turn the plate over and install it on the previously prepared fasteners. The hob is attached to the bottom with the screws supplied. The tests can now be carried out.
Attention! Due to the high cost of the device and the danger posed by electricity, in order to avoid injuries and unnecessary breakdowns, assess your capabilities correctly. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the panel connection to a professional electrician.