Terminal socket for hob. Necessary equipment and tools. The process of connecting an electric cooking surface

We connect the hob ourselves

Built-in hobs with a separate oven are increasingly appearing in our apartments, replacing bulky and not always convenient stoves. However, after acquiring such equipment, you will not immediately be able to start using it. You will certainly face the problem of connecting it to the mains. Someone will prefer to turn to the help of professionals and not rack their brains with unnecessary difficulties. For those who want to figure it out on their own and at the same time save a lot, our detailed guide.

Cable selection

Let's start with the fact that the connection of the electrical panel should be made strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Read it carefully and carefully follow all the requirements prescribed there.

Incorrectly selected power outlet, brand and wire section, incorrect panel connection - all this can lead to ignition of the wiring and fire.

Power cable for hob must be exclusively copper. These are the requirements of the PES.

Aluminum is allowed to be laid indoors if its cross section is 16 m2 or more. This exception does not apply to apartments.

Electric panels are convenient because they heat up very quickly and strongly. This is achieved due to the power they consume, which can reach up to 7 kW or more. For this reason, many models can be connected to both 220V and more - 380V.

Depending on the power supply, we determine the number of cores in the cable:

1. If this is an apartment, then connection is possible only to a single-phase electrical network - 220V. In this case, it must be three-core:

L - phase, N - zero, PE - ground.

1. If the house is private, then it is recommended to distribute the load in two or three phases - 380V. Here you will already need a five-core cable: A, B, C - three phases, N - zero, PE - ground.

Now you need to choose the right cable cross-section for the hob. It is determined depending on the network:

• for single-phase 220V - the cross section must be at least 6 mm2;

this value is general and can vary up or down depending on the power of the stove

• for three-phase 380V - a cross section of 2.5 mm2 or more is required.

The last thing you need to decide is the brand of cable. Stick to trusted brands. For example, we can recommend such domestic manufacturers as Avtoprovod and Kobrinagromash.

Please note: the connection must be made to a separate supply line - it cannot be combined with lighting or outlet lines.

RCD and automatic

Before connecting electrical surface to the network, it is necessary to install a residual current device (RCD) and a circuit breaker - in order to protect the wiring.

For stationary electrical equipment, which includes an electrical surface, it is allowed not to install an RCD. However, for greater security, it is better to do so.

They are chosen like this:

1. For a single-phase network, the nominal value of the machine is 32A. The RCD must also have a rated current of at least 32A (it is better if it is higher than the nominal value of the machine) and a differentiated current of 30 mA. It is connected in series to the line after the switch.
2. For a three-phase, an RCD is installed with a rated current of 25A and a differentiated 30 mA. Automatic - 16A.

It is strictly forbidden to use the circuit breaker for more than one device.

Power socket and plug

For a reliable connection of the hob, you must choose the right socket and plug. Their rated current must strictly correspond to the rating of the circuit breaker:

• for a single-phase network - a three-pin socket and a 32A plug;
• for three-phase - 16A.

The housing should be grounded with conductors that are connected to the outlet terminals.

Most models already have a ground bus - you just need to connect it to the ground wires of your apartment's wiring.

Connecting the hob

There are three main connection schemes. Let's consider them in detail.

When connecting the cables to the outlet and the outlets of the electric stove, follow the color coding - this will allow you not to make a mistake.

Single phase circuit 220V

The most common option in apartments. As follows:

1. Phase L is simultaneously connected to terminals L1-3. To do this, we install two copper jumpers between them (they are already included with the stove).
2. Zero N is connected to terminals N1-2.
3. Protective conductor PE – to the PE terminal.

You can access the terminals of the electrical surface through its back cover - it is unscrewed and removed.

Three-phase circuit 380V

Connect like this:

• Phases A, B, C - connected to terminals L1-3.
• Terminals N1-2 and PE are connected according to the above scheme.

In this case, everything is simple, no jumpers need to be done.

Two-phase circuit 380V

It may also be that in country house or the apartment has not three phases, but two: A and C are present, but B is absent. In this situation, the hob is connected to a 380V network in a two-phase scheme:

• A jumper is placed on L1-2 and phase A is connected.
• On L3 - phase C.
• The rest is similar to the previous options.

If for some reason you don’t have jumpers, you can make them yourself from a wire whose cross section is not less than that of the supply one (i.e. 6 mm2).

For flexible wire, use insulated ring or fork lugs to ensure better contact with the clamp. They are pressed onto the core using special press tongs.

Connecting the oven

For the oven, everything is much easier - the euro plug is simply inserted into the euro socket (if necessary, the old one must be replaced with a new one).

However, some requirements must be met.

Consider them:

1. It is necessary that the grounding contacts from the electrical panel are connected to the outlet with a separate conductor. The power cable to the oven must be connected to the RCD in the electrical panel.
2. The power of the oven is 3-3.5 kW - that is, ordinary electrical wiring is enough for it. If it turns out to be larger (check according to your passport), you will have to lay a separate 3x2.5 mm2 cable from the electrical panel. It connects to the machine at 25A.

The preferred option is to connect the oven to a separate machine. Otherwise, when high power consumption, the simultaneous operation of several electrical appliances will be impossible - they will knock out the switch.

If you have purchased built-in appliances - an electric surface and an oven, you can connect them yourself. This is not very difficult to do, the main thing is to follow the instructions and be extremely careful. Remember that working with electrical wiring is no joke, mistakes here can be expensive. To prevent them and do everything correctly, the explanations and advice given by us will help you.

kuhnarium.ru

How to properly connect an induction hob. Schemes, choice of cable, sockets, machines.

When connecting the hob, you may encounter problems that make you think not only the average user, but also an experienced electrician:

• which cable to choose for wiring from the shield to the hob

• how to connect the panel in the electrical panel

• how to connect 4 wires coming out of the stove and 3 wires of the electrical wiring power cable

• how to connect correctly and not confuse the cable cores on the terminal block

First of all, understand for yourself that the hob must be connected by a separate electrical wiring line directly from the switchboard. It is not allowed to power it from an existing common junction box in the kitchen or already installed sockets.

The cable must be three-core and copper, and it is up to you to decide which brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM. Which cable is better and how they differ can be read in detail in the article “4 differences between NYM and VVGnG-Ls”.

The most important thing is to choose the right section. The set of rules SP31-110-2003, compiled on the basis of GOST and PUE, states that for plates it is necessary to choose a section of at least 6mm2.

But apparently here we are talking about the preliminary installation of wiring in the apartment, when it is not yet known what power the hob will be installed. Therefore, initially, a section of 6mm2 should be laid, sufficient to connect most existing models.

If your power is less than 7 kW, and you are sure that in the future you will not buy a new, more energy-intensive stove, then you can navigate by the following table:

But what if the cable has already been laid (VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5mm2), but it turned out to be of a smaller cross section than necessary for the maximum possible power of the hob (7.2 kW). At the same time, there is neither the possibility nor the desire to re-strobe the walls.

In this case, you can protect yourself in two ways, although you will have to accept the fact that you will not be able to use the full power of the panel:

• install a circuit breaker in the switchboard based on the nominal cable section, and not the plate power (see the table above, according to the section)

• programmatically set the operating mode of the panel, in which it will not be possible to turn on all the burners at the same time

That is, if you still do not know what kind of hob you will have, feel free to lay 6mm2. Just keep in mind that low-power panels have small terminal blocks that are not rated for 6mm2. And it is correct, it is not always convenient to directly connect such a wire, you can also break the clamp.

A prerequisite for the installation of the hob and oven is the connection of these devices through an RCD + automatic machine, or differential machine with a leakage current of 30mA.

Simple circuit breakers will not be able to provide protection in case of damage to the insulation and leakage to the housing.

• Zero core (choose a wire of blue color) - to the bottom terminal marked with the Latin letter N

• A vein of yellow-green color ( protective earth) to the ground bar

If you do not intend to run the cable directly into the panel, then you will have to install a separate outlet under it.

Fork use over convenient option regarding the maintenance and operation of the hob.

For example, when wet cleaning the panel must be de-energized. If you do not have an outlet, you will have to run to the shield twice and turn off the machine. And so he pulled out the plug, wiped the surface and connected it back.

The socket should be installed at a convenient height. The recommended distance from the floor is up to 90cm.

In this case, it is not allowed that the socket is on the same level with the hob. It is best to place it to the right or left of the device.

If you also want to install an oven nearby, then the socket must be located below the level of the oven. Usually this distance is at the level of the legs of the kitchen.

It is also impossible to do it too close to the floor, keep in mind the likelihood of flooding and water leaks!

What socket to take? With a low-power panel up to 3.5 kW (usually two-burner), everything can be connected via a euro socket and a corresponding plug.

In addition, if you initially took a 3 * 6mm2 cable, then getting it to the plug contacts will be a big problem. Therefore, it is preferable to use a special plug and socket for stoves, designed for currents up to 40A.

If you have induction hob with a power of more than 3.5 kW, then connection through an ordinary plug and socket is all the more prohibited!

The location of the phase and neutral wires in the outlet does not play a significant role. The main thing is to correctly connect the ground wire (from above to the ground contact).

But when connecting the plug, it is desirable to observe the "polarity". It is not for nothing that manufacturers mark the terminals on which the phase and zero should go. But even if you confuse the panel, it should still work properly.

You will need a wire to connect the plug. It doesn't always come with it. In the absence of a regular one, it is necessary to purchase a three-wire PVA wire. The cross section of the wire must correspond to the power of the device (see table above). Disassemble the plug body, pass the wire through it. Remove the insulation from the outer shell to such a length that its edge, after assembling the plug, is pressed down with a special clamp.

Strip the wires and, to ensure better contact, crimp with a NShV tip.

Tighten the screw connectors of the plug:

A big inconvenience of such models is that they “bulge” very strongly from the wall - by 5-7 cm.

Consider this point when assembling the kitchen in advance.

If a socket protruding a few centimeters does not suit you and you want to carefully hide everything in a socket or junction box, then this can be done in two ways:

• through the mounting box KLK-5S

First, let's define the wires. On many models, a connected cable already comes out of the panel, but it has 4 cores. And you have only three in the socket. How to be?

The fact is that such hobs are simultaneously designed for both single-phase 220V connection and two-phase 380V. In this case, one half of the burners will work from one phase 220V, and the other from the second.

Some believe that the second phase is used only for control power. This is not true. Power is distributed evenly over both phases. To connect the whole thing to the usual 220 volts, just remove one core to the side and isolate it.

There remains zero (usually a blue wire), ground (yellow-green) and phase (brown, black or other colors).

You can combine two phase wires into one through the lug. For example, in many Bosch panels, where the cable is not removable, this is how it was originally done.

There is also an option with a 5-wire cable. Such panels are usually high power from 7 kW and above. They are originally designed for 380V. To connect them to a 220V network, you need to connect two wires in pairs.

For example, put black and brown wires into phase, and blue and gray wires into zero. The earth is yellow-green remains solitary.

But if you strictly follow the rules, then such a connection is not entirely correct. Since the protective conductor PE must be of the same cross section as the phase conductors. And it will be twice as thin.

Now you need to connect the wiring in the socket to the cable going to the panel. Select the GML sleeves corresponding to the cross section of the cores.

If the cross-sections of the cores are different, for example, 6mm2 comes out of the wall, and 4mm2 goes to the panel, then on one side (smaller) the sleeve is sealed additional wire.

After that, the ends are pressed in with a press tongs and insulated with electrical tape or a heat pipe.

Now all this can be neatly hidden in the socket.

The sleeve is inconvenient because, firstly, the connection is not collapsible, and secondly, a special tool is needed for crimping. Not everyone has a press available, and such connections cannot be crimped with pliers.

In this case, the mounting box KLK-5S will come to the rescue. In addition to a screwdriver, nothing is needed here, and the outgoing cable can be disconnected at any time.

True, her contacts can be quite delicate, so do not overdo it with the tightening force.

In addition, its overall dimensions, unlike powerful sockets, are small and the whole thing can be conveniently mounted behind the kitchen cabinets.

Connection is performed traditionally:

• zero via screw terminal N (blue wires)

• earth is indicated by the "ground" icon - yellow-green conductor

• three phase connectors on top. Extra phases, if you have 220V, recline and isolate.

After all the work done, you can proceed to the direct connection of the cable to the hob terminals. On reverse side panel must have a sticker, drawing or graphic designation of the factory wiring diagram.

For a single-phase network, choose a circuit that is most often indicated as 1N.

According to this scheme, terminals numbered 1,2,3 and terminals 4,5 must be connected to each other by jumpers.

Such jumpers made of copper or brass should be included with the hob. Usually they are located in a separate "pocket", in the same place as the terminals.

If you do not install these shunts, then you will only heat part of the hob.

Often, the same problem can occur during operation, when one of the jumpers burns out due to poor contact and heating.

Before connecting, the insulation is removed from the PVA wire and the cores are crimped. Here you can use tips NShV, NKI, NShPI. Before installation, check whether there is enough free space in the terminal box for mounting certain tips.

Sometimes you have to shorten them, or even abandon some kind.

Jumpers are installed first. According to the diagram for a single-phase hob, mount them on terminals 1-2-3.

After that, connect the phase core to terminal No. 3 and tighten the contacts.

To connect zero, mount a jumper between the fourth and fifth terminals.

Insert a blue neutral wire into terminal No. 5 and tighten the contact.

Connect the last free core - protective grounding - to the connector with the "grounding" icon.

Here are some connection diagrams for different models hobs Bosch, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hansa, Gorenje:

domikelectrica.ru

Cable for electric stove and hob - type and section

The safety of operation of a classic, induction, halogen, glass-ceramic electric stove depends on proper connection to electrical network. It is important to choose the right one:

• brand and section of supply cables, wires;
• power socket, plug;
• introductory machine and RCD (difavtomat);
• diagram and method of connecting to the mains.

In addition, it is necessary to allocate a separate line for supplying a cable or wire from the electrical panel to the connected product and carry out grounding. It is not allowed to combine lighting and socket lines with the power supply of the electric stove. This is directly stated in the PUE.

Attention! In the houses of the old fund, it is impossible to connect electrical products with a power of 3 kW or more to a functioning network, because. it is not designed for such a load that it can cause the plugs to burn out, lead to a fire or failure of the electric stove. The latter fact will deprive the buyer of the stove, hob or oven of warranty obligations.
electric stove passport (click to enlarge)

For right decision the issue of installation and connection, it is necessary to study the passport for the product being installed, as well as the manufacturer's recommendations for installation and maintenance. Usually, the necessary information is indicated in the instruction manual, which, together with the passport, is attached to each product by a conscientious manufacturer. In addition, the connection of the electric stove cable must be carried out in accordance with the instructions of the Electrical Installation Code and other regulatory and technical documentation regarding the installation and operation of energy-intensive products. The same rules must be followed for the oven and hob.

Features of the choice of cable for the stove

The manufacturer does not always complete an electric stove or other similar type of kitchen device with wires for connection. And then there is the need to purchase a wire. What brand, section and with what material of the core to choose? The cable for the hob, electric stove, oven is selected taking into account the power of the product and the phase of the connection. The first parameter is indicated in the passport data, the second depends on the number of cable cores supplied to the stove (three-core or five-core), and this already depends on the power supply (single- or three-phase). The wire or cable must be with copper conductors. According to the requirements of the PUE, it is not allowed to connect cables with aluminum conductors to energy-intensive products.

The cross section of the cable cores is selected depending on the power of the energy-intensive product (electric stove, hob, oven) and the type of power supply according to the table:

The power supply of the plate from a single-phase network means that the cable must have 3 cores - phase, zero and earth, from a three-phase 5 cores - there are 3 phase cores, zero and earth.

Now you need to decide on the brand of wire. Many years of experience in the operation of products indicates that the best cables for connecting an electric stove are the PVS and KG brands.

Information about wire and cable grades PVS and KG

The abbreviation PVS stands for vinyl connecting wire. It is used to connect electrical devices and appliances to the power supply network. It is a product with conductive copper conductors (from 2 to 5), protected by insulation (each conductor) and enclosed in a common insulating sheath white color. Symbol wires, in addition to the abbreviation PVA, includes the number of cores and the diameter of each core, for example, the designation PVA 3x4 is deciphered as follows: a vinyl connecting wire with three conductive cores with a diameter of 4 mm. PVA withstands a voltage of 450 V. The insulation material does not support combustion, which classifies the wire as a standard product class for fire resistance. It has high strength and bending resistance. The wire can be used in damp and unheated rooms. Depending on the operating conditions, it serves from 6 to 10 years. The low price makes it in demand when connecting electric stoves of different capacities.

The abbreviation KG stands for flexible cable. The role of the shell in it is played by special rubber. Inside the cable there are also tinned copper conductors in a rubber sheath, and between them - protective film, the purpose of which is to prevent sticking as a result of heating during operation. It is produced by manufacturers with the number of cores from 1 to 5. The cross section of the core determines the power that the cable can withstand. The cable can be operated in quite wide range- from minus 40 to 50 0C in rooms with high humidity at an electrical network voltage of up to 660 V.

The symbol consists of the abbreviation KG, the number of phase and ground conductors with an indication of their cross section. For example, the designation KG 3x5 + 1x4 is deciphered as follows: 3 phase conductors with a cross section of 5.0 mm2 and 1 ground wire with a cross section of 4 mm2.

Regardless of which brand is chosen to connect the electric kitchen appliance, the wire or cable must be purchased with a margin of length so that the product can be moved. PVA and KG easily fit into their mind increased flexibility and simply connect to the stove. When connected to the contacts of the product, the ends of the wire or cable must be cleaned from oxidation, tinned, and then they can be fixed as follows:

Connection Features

Modern electrical devices are available in a large assortment and are endowed with different functions. The connection to the power source is carried out according to the circuit diagram, which allows you to connect the stove to a 220 V or 380 V network. The necessary power is provided for a specific network by installing special jumpers. The junction box on the back of the product has an image of such a diagram. Helps to make a competent connection of the color of the insulation of the cores. A wire with insulation in black or brown is connected to the phase contact, blue - to the zero contact, yellow-green - to the ground contact. According to the international designation, the letters L, N and the inverted designation of the letter T are located near such terminals, respectively. electrical panel. Now, using the tester, you need to check the correct connection. The work is considered completed and the product can be operated if the manufacturer has equipped it with a socket to connect the electric stove. And if it is not there, then you need to purchase a euro plug with three pins for 25 ÷ 32 A and a PVA wire 3 x 2.5 in an amount of at least 2 m and make the necessary connecting device. Checking the correct connection by the tester is performed for the absence of a short circuit. (short circuit) between each wire of the cable and on the plug in the absence of contact between ground and phase, while all switches on the product must be inoperative. The same test is carried out with different operating modes of the switches. Resistance readings between 4 and 10 ohms are considered normal when set to 100 ohms.

In any case, the block for connecting the power wire or cable contains six terminals and it is mandatory that in the operational documents or on the stove itself there is circuit diagram, with which you can, having figured out, connect the cable of the oven, electric stove or hob yourself if available necessary tool and control and measuring device (tester).

How the electric stove is connected is shown in detail in this video:

To protect the wire or cable in the apartment or house shield, a differential machine or circuit breaker with characteristic C and RCD is installed.

Grounding the electric stove

The electric stove must be grounded. All work in the houses is divided into 2 categories:

• the presence of a common ground loop;
• lack of a ground loop.

In the first case, you will need a copper flexible wire with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm2, which must be laid from electrical panel and connect to the plate body. In the second case, the installation of an RCD, the performance of grounding (use a protective zero conductor) or both methods together will help.

Where there is no centralized gas supply, an electric stove is a necessary kitchen device and its operation and period of use depend on how it is connected. When choosing a cable or wire, it is necessary to choose the right brand, wire cross-section and its quantity, as well as pay attention to the manufacturer of this product. And do not forget that electric current is a source of increased danger, leading to undesirable consequences. Therefore, it is better to entrust the installation of an electric stove to specialists who know all the intricacies of such a connection, and are also well versed in the necessary materials, accessories, fixtures and know how to use a control and measuring device.

yaelectric.ru

What wire is needed to connect the electric stove

Quite often, foreign-made electric stoves, as well as built-in kitchen hobs, are not equipped with wires for connecting to the network. The most annoying thing is that you usually find out about this only during installation.

Therefore, remember, when buying appliances for the kitchen - an electric stove or hob, be sure to check with the store if they come with wires for connection.

If it is already there, which happens infrequently, just go to the connection - How to connect the electric stove yourself.

In the store where you bought the stove, they may offer to buy the missing wire, but do not rush to do this, most likely it will cost you much more than the same one purchased in any electrical shop or in the market. I will now tell you what brand and section you need to buy a wire.

In some detail about the choice of the cross-section of the conductors of the electrical wiring cable under the stove in the kitchen, we considered earlier, you can read about it HERE. Now I will briefly describe the main points that you should know, because the wire section for connection is selected in the same way.

Most main parameter, which you need to know when choosing the wire section for connecting the plate, is its power consumption. It, depending on the manufacturer and the specific model, the value may be different, but on average it is 5-8 kW.

Below is a table, the dependence of the cable cross-section on the power.

Using it is quite simple, look at the passport data of your electric stove or hob, where you find the amount of power consumption, then choose from the table the cable section that matches your performance.

The table is divided into two parts: for single-phase connection and for three-phase. The choice of connection depends on your wiring to the stove. If a three-core cable (phase, zero and ground) is suitable for it, then a single-phase connection, if five-core, then choose three-phase connection. In addition, be sure to consider whether the type of connection you have chosen supports the electric stove.

Usually, relatively low-power electrical appliances (up to 3-5 kW) are connected to a single-phase network (three stranded conductors), and more energy-intensive (from 5 kW) support two-, three-phase connection (four or five stranded conductors).

IMPORTANT! The conductor cross-sections in the table are for copper stranded cable, which is best suited for connection.

So, after we have determined the required number of cores and their cross-section to connect your electric stove or hob, it remains to determine the brand of the required cable, so that you can place an order in the store.

For installation, it is most convenient to use a KG cable (flexible cable) or PVA wire (vinyl connecting wire).

These cables are ideal for connection, they are copper and stranded, therefore flexible, they can be easily routed along or behind the kitchen set to the point of connection.

If you don’t know what power your electric stove has or want to buy an electric cord for connecting “with a margin” for sure, feel free to take a PVA 3x6 wire (3 cores with a cross section of 6 mm2 each) or a similar KG 3x6. In the vast majority of cases, these wires will suit you.

They withstand up to 10kW of power consumption, while their price will pleasantly surprise you, especially with respect to the wires imposed by stores. An example of connecting the hob with such a wire can be found HERE.

You can find diagrams for connecting the power cable to the hob or electric stove HERE.

Still have questions about choosing a power cord for an electric stove or hob? - feel free to leave them in the comments to the article, we will figure it out together. In addition, write about your experience with connecting electric stoves and the wires used.

Built-in hobs are rightfully considered a worthy alternative to bulky electric stoves. But for many owners, the stumbling block is the need to connect equipment. If you want to solve the problem without resorting to the help of professionals, you will have to understand the intricacies of the process. How the hob is connected to the mains and what points should be taken into account when performing work, we will consider in the article.

The main points of connecting the device to the power supply

In terms of power, the hob can be safely equated to electric stove. Therefore, the connection of this device should be performed not to a 220 V network, but to field line at 380 V. For this, a separate line is provided from the switchboard. According to the requirements of the PUE:

• with a single-phase network - use a copper cable having a cross section of 6 mm 2;
• with three-phase - choose a wire from that material, but with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 and above.

Please note that several power devices cannot be connected to one line at the same time. To protect it from current leakage, a differential machine or RCD with a rating of 32 A or 40 A is installed at the input.

The technology for connecting the hob to the outlet directly depends on the type of electrical appliance. Dependent panels are connected simultaneously with the oven. Models with rapid heating zones require wiring for each heating point. Connection of "independent" models is carried out through the "crab" installed at the input, from which all heated sections are powered.

It is extremely problematic to connect induction-type models on your own. This work is best left to professionals. You can not independently connect and combined models. This must be done by licensed energy and gas workers.

Selection of necessary accessories

It is impossible to independently connect the hob without a set of necessary components. For this purpose, you will need the following materials:

• power cable VVGng-Ls or NYM;
• power socket and plug;
• tips NShVI 4.0-10.

The rating of the RCD for a single-phase network should be 32 A (at a rated current of 32 A and a differential current of 30 mA). For three-phase networks, an RCD with a rated current of 25 A and a differentiated one of 30 mA is chosen, mounting the machine for 16 A.

Sockets and plugs for electric stoves (Fig. 1).

When purchasing a socket for the hob (Fig. 1), take into account that the parameter of the rated current of the device is not lower than the current of the machine: for single-phase - 32 A, for three-phase - 16 A.

Often hobs come without a power cord. This is due to the fact that devices can be connected according to several schemes, which involve the use of three to six wires. If these are not provided in the configuration of the equipment, then you will need to additionally purchase a couple of meters of wire. PVA is quite suitable for this purpose: for a single-phase network - 3x4 mm 2, for a three-phase network - 4x2.5 mm 2.

Hob connection diagrams

The hob terminal block (Figure 2).

The technology for connecting an electrical appliance depends on the type of electrical network provided in the house. In outdated buildings, these are single-phase networks for 220 V, in modern houses- three-phase analogues for 380 V. Almost all modern models of hobs can be connected to both single-phase and three-phase networks (Fig. 2).

Before connecting the hob to the socket, it is important to make sure that the housing will be grounded. Many electrical appliances are already available with built-in tires. The task of the master is simply to connect them with a ground wire.

Attention!!! Before starting any wiring work, the line must be de-energized.

Option with a single-phase network

To correctly connect the hob to the outlet, you should focus on the color coding. If a single-phase network has two conductors, the insulation of which is painted the same color, it will not be difficult to determine the phase using a screwdriver equipped with an LED or a tester. In a three-wire network, the insulation lived most often in color: “phase” - brown / red, “zero” - blue / blue, “ground” - green-yellow.

The panel has 6 outputs: 3 phase "L1-L3", 2 neutral "N1-N2" and 1 ground "PE". In single-phase networks, the most common option is as follows:

• Phase "L" - is connected simultaneously to the terminals "L1-L3". To do this, two copper jumpers included in the package for the electrical appliance are installed between the terminals.
• Phase "N" - connects to the terminals "N1-N2".
• "PE" - the protective conductor is connected to the "PE" terminal.

To gain access to the terminals, unscrew the back cover of the appliance. The panel with leads can rise above the surface or be recessed into it. The cable cores are connected in series to the terminals. Check the reliability of the latch, excluding the possibility of tension. After connecting the plug, turn on the circuit breaker and check how each of the burners works for 3-5 minutes.

Connection to a two-wire network is carried out in one of two ways:

1. By laying a separate "earth" circuit.
2. By connecting without using the "ground" output.

Installing a ground loop is relevant if you plan to keep the manufacturer's warranty. Indeed, in the event of equipment breakdown, even due to factory defects, without grounding, it will be invalid.

The subtleties of connecting to a three-phase network

When connecting the equipment with a 5-wire wire to a three-phase 380 V network, the jumper will only need to be activated on two neutral wires “N1-N2”. Phase conductors are directly connected to each phase. If you have to work with a wire of 4 cores, one phase on the outlet is simply not used. The output that corresponds to it in the outlet itself is also not used.

The color of the braid will help determine the type of cores:

• "phase" - green / red / yellow or brown / black / white;
• "N" - blue or light blue;
• "RE" is the usual green-yellow color.

Apart from visual definition for the reliability of the wire, it is better to “ring” and sign by hanging tags.

There are situations when you have to connect to a two-phase 380 V network. In this case, they work according to a scheme that involves combining two phases and two neutrals. Since the power is evenly distributed to both phases, you can combine them through a ferrule or simply move one core to the side and insulate it. All other cores are connected to the plug contacts, focusing on polarity.

If at the time of connection there were no jumpers at hand, you can make them yourself. The main thing is to use copper wire 6 mm 2 .

For flexible stranded wires, in order to ensure better contact with the clamp, it is convenient to use fork-type lugs or their insulated ring counterparts. The tips are placed on bare ends lived by pressing tongs.

How to connect a hob without a socket

Junction boxes (Figure 3).

If desired, the connection can be made "directly", making it without a detachable. To do this, a terminal box is installed at the end of the line (Fig. 3). On one side of the box, a wire from an electrical appliance is started, and on the other, a power cable. Most of the items for sale modern models terminal boxes are applicable for both 220 V and 380 V networks.

To make the connection, the wires are inserted into the holes on the side of the box, not forgetting to observe the polarity. If you have to connect 220 V, the extra phases are discarded and isolated. The bare ends inserted into the cavity of the box are tightened with bolts and “ended” by means of clamps. If desired, they can be completely tinned and rolled into a ring.

Based on the above guidelines, independent connection electrical appliance even for a novice master will not cause any particular difficulties.

Good afternoon!

Today we will talk about connecting a powerful modern hob to a ready-made cable outlet. Due to the high power, to connect such panels (often their power exceeds 6-7 kW), a separate line is required, laid with a cable of at least 6 sq. mm (10 mm2 line options are rare).

There are two basic ways to connect the hob:

1. Directly, that is, when laying, a supply of power cable is left, which is connected directly to the hob terminal block, or to the wire (depending on the model, the hobs have either a terminal block or a wire).

2. Through a special power outlet with a rating of, for example, 32 amperes:

Due to the high price of such sockets and plugs, the fact that the hob never turns off (and if it breaks, the socket does not provide any advantages - the stove can also be disconnected from the terminal block), most widespread got the first way. Let's consider it.

I output such a cable using a deep socket and a plug, for example, from the Etika series from Legrand, which allows you to arrange the output of the hob cable and the oven socket side by side in one frame.

And, of course, there are some nuances here. Cooktops have either a terminal block or an output in the form of a flexible terminated wire. Often this wire is not part of the ilita design and can be disconnected from the terminal block without voiding the hob warranty. So it was in the case of the panel mentioned in the article.

In addition, almost all panels are designed for both single-phase and multi-phase (usually two-phase connection), and, judging by the design of the panels, the manufacturer considers multi-phase connection as the main one, which is quite rare in Russian apartment buildings.

The consequence of this is the use by power cable manufacturers of 4 cores of 4 squares and a panel junction box designed specifically for such a cable. Here is a cable already disconnected from the hob:

The figure shows the two-phase and single-phase connection diagrams of the Zanussi hob.

In the single-phase version, a 6 mm2 cable is required to be connected to the panel, and here problems arise. The fact is that all cables intended for stationary laying (for example, VVGng-ls) have cores of flexibility class 1 according to GOST 22483-2012 (hereinafter referred to as monocores). Cables that have flexible (that is, having a flexibility class of 3 and higher according to GOST 22483-2012) cores are not intended for stationary installation and have a short service life (that is, wiring with PVA or ShVVP wire is obvious hack work).

If the panel is equipped only with a terminal block, without a cable, it is extremely difficult to bring three monocores of 6 mm2 into the junction box and connect there, and besides, it is dangerous due to the rigidity of the cores - when bent, they can easily break the panel terminal block. If the cable is insulated and well made, it will not fit into the junction box at all.

It is extremely inconvenient to bend a monocore in a narrow space, it “springs”, and if the outer insulation of the cable is not removed, then this is generally not easy. It should be understood that the oven is usually located under the hob and the distance from it rear wall to the wall or back wall of the kitchen is very small.

If there is a “tail” wire, it must also be somehow connected to the supply cable, so that the connection is reliable, has a low transient resistance, withstands high currents and does not require periodic checks.

One of the solutions is to disconnect the standard four-core cable (it can be disconnected in this model of the stove) and connect the hob with a flexible PugV wire with the transition to a mono-core supply cable by means of a high-quality non-separable connection (crimping), which is discussed in this article.

The wire PugV 1x6 mm2 manufactured by the Kolchugino plant, purchased from Electrical Installation, is used.

Previously, the PuGV wire is stretched a little to straighten it after not quite correct twisting in the Wiring:

"Curls" are cut off, as a result, even veins remain. Red was chosen as the color of the phase wire, as it attracts attention and signals danger.

Next, the flexible wire for connecting to the terminal block must be terminated. Typically, such a wire is terminated with SHNV or NShVI tips (the picture is taken from the techelectro.ru website):
NShV / NShVI are good when you want to connect the wire to a full-fledged terminal block, such as, for example, in circuit breaker or screw / spring terminal, that is, where the tip is pressed evenly over the entire area.

In the hob, this is not entirely true - in all the panels I have seen, the core is clamped with a screw with a washer, and the washer does not cover the tip over the entire area.

In the case of using NSHVI or NSHV, it turns out something like this:

The pressure washer strongly deforms the NShVI at the point of contact, which is not good at all. And this is especially bad, since the tip also usually presses the jumper between adjacent terminals. Therefore, the tip at the connection point must be rigid, thin and have a large surface area.

These conditions are most fully met by pin flat insulated tips of the NShPI type (the picture is taken from the website www.fortisflex.ru):

Unfortunately, due to their size, NShPI do not fit into the junction box of most hobs, so they have to be “finished”, namely, shorten the pin and cut off part of the “skirt”.

The pin is cut to the length of the crimped old hob cable.

The "skirt" is also cut off:

NShPI is put on and crimped. Please note that usually NShPI is crimped with a double oval, but due to the shortening of the "skirt" it is necessary to use a matrix with an indentation at the point.

Next, jumpers are mounted, set according to a single-phase circuit, as well as terminated wires are screwed with a torque screwdriver. Unfortunately, I did not find the recommended tightening torques for screws on Zanussi hobs, so the standard torque for terminal blocks was set on the screwdriver - 2 nm.

Here's what happened in the end:

Next, GML sleeves manufactured by the KVT plant are taken:


Since in this apartment the power cable of the hob has a cross section of 10 mm2 (and not 6 as they usually do), the sleeves had to be taken with a cross section of 10 mm2. While the PUGV for connecting to the hob has a cross section of 6 mm2. Therefore, during crimping, the sleeve must be “stuffed” to the desired section. As a “stuffing”, triple-folded PUGV 1.5 mm2 cores are used.

Crimping GML with "stuffing":

After cutting off the “stuffing” wire, a kit ready for installation is obtained in the form of a hob with connected PUGV wires and GML sleeves pressed on them:

A hole for the hob carefully prepared by the kitchen installers.

I do not recommend trusting the connection of the hob to kitchen installers, as these specialists are well aware of the installation of kitchens, but often do not know how to make a high-quality connection, which can be simply dangerous at high currents of the hob!

Often the plate wire is connected through a flammable polyethylene terminal, which also needs to be periodically pulled through the screws.

Just as you should not trust engineering systems (including electrics) to plasterers and station wagons. Everyone must do their job.

Preparing the cable outlet (3 cores, 10 mm2 each) for crimping:




Next, the connection is crimped and insulated with high-quality 3M Temflex electrical tape, as well as heat shrink tube with adhesive layer.

After shrinkage with a building dryer, a neat and reliable connection is obtained:

The wire is neatly folded and secured, the hob is installed in its place.

The hob is working, you can cook:

Thank you for your attention.

Electric cooktops are very popular. They are safe, economical and very easy to operate. However, buying a quality electrical panel will cost you a considerable amount. Due to such a high cost, not everyone can decide on the additional services of a master for connecting the hob. If you are confident in your abilities and ready to try connecting the hob to the mains without outside help, then today you will learn about all the nuances of this responsible work.

Connecting the hob to the power supply is a very responsible task that requires maximum concentration. It depends on how accurately you comply with all safety standards and rules, how long your new acquisition will work.

First of all, you need to make sure that the wiring in the kitchen is in good condition. If you neglect this stage, then in the end, after a few months, you can get a new, but faulty hob. The fact is that with poor wiring, the stove will constantly be disconnected from the mains, knocking out traffic jams, from which it will quickly become unusable.

When working on connecting the hob to the network, do not forget to turn off the machines in the electrical panel.

From the introductory switchboard, it is necessary to lay separate lines for connecting powerful electric stoves. If you do not have the opportunity to do this, then you should refuse to connect a powerful stove.

The cross section of copper conductors must not be less than 4 sq. mm. It is also necessary to make grounding. If this is not done, then the device may turn into a life-threatening object. For added security, an automatic shutdown device can be installed.

You can connect the hob with a wire that goes directly from the shield to the terminals. Wiring is open and closed type. In the first case, the wires go directly along the wall, in the second they hide in it.

Choosing a fork for the hob

If you expect to frequently rearrange the stove and disconnect it from the mains, then you will need a special outlet. You also need to purchase a device such as a power plug.

The plug connection must be selected depending on the rated current. For a single-phase network, the power outlet must have three outputs, and for a three-phase network, five.

Sockets and plugs for powerful electrical appliances made of special plastic. Sometimes they have a lid. Sockets for single-phase and three-phase networks will differ significantly. For a single-phase, you need an installation of 32A, and for a three-phase 16A.

The appearance and structure of the socket and plug does not really matter. However, it is very important that it can withstand the flowing current.

Do not use conventional outlets. They will not be able to withstand the current required by the hob, and sooner or later they will ignite.

The cord of the hob should be long enough to reach the outlet without any problems. It is also necessary that this cable be flexible enough and have a number of strands equal to the number of strands in the wiring. To strengthen small wires in the cable, use the sleeve insulated pin lug.

How to connect a hob with one phase to electricity

Most questions arise when connecting an electric hob to a 220 V network. Usually an electric hob, for example, Hansa, has 6 wires, while in the house there are only three wires. However, this problem can be easily dealt with by installing special jumpers. They can be bundled. If they are not, then you will have to make them yourself using special clips.

Connecting the hob to electricity:

1. Locate the cover on the back of the panel. Open it with a screwdriver, under the cover you will find the terminals.
2. If there are 6 of them, and there are 3 wires in the apartment, then you need to combine the contacts. To do this, you need to connect together three phase wires, then two neutrals, and leave the ground on its own. Sometimes the equipment comes with jumpers already installed, in which case you connect to the power cord to groups of contacts: one to phase, one to neutral and yellow-green to ground.
3. You can see the connection of the hob with three wires to the network in the diagram. In this case, the earth wire must be connected to the top of the distribution, and the phase must correspond to the separation of the wires in the outlet.

If you connect the stove in an apartment where there are only two wires in the wiring, then you will need to run a separate ground loop. If this is not done, then the guarantee for the device will cease to be valid, and you will have to deal with any breakdown, even with a factory defect.

Also, sometimes you may be faced with the need to connect the panel to a 380 volt network. However, such transactions are extremely rare.

Connecting the Electrolux hob 4 wires

In some models of hobs of the Electrolux, Bosch, Hansa, Gorenje brands, they have a four-wire wire. Therefore, it can be very difficult to decide where to connect them if there are only 3 wires in the apartment.

Electrolux brand hobs come with a wire already. This facilitates the installation process, however, in this case, you need correct scheme connections.

The four-core cable consists of the following wires: zero, ground and two phases. To properly connect the wire to the hob, you need to know some of the nuances.

Installing a 4-wire hob:

1. Find the place where the terminals are located. They are usually located on the back of the case. Unlike Bosch panels, Electrolux has a plastic case. To open it, you just need to pry off the cover with a screwdriver.
2. Find the “ground” exit in the open box, it usually has a yellow-green color. Near this output there should be a jumper for two wires. Phase wires are inserted into it, they have black and brown colors. To do this, check the screws with a screwdriver, slip the jumper and tighten everything.
3. When connecting the plug, you will need to use only brown, and the black wire will need to be insulated with a heat pipe.

All further actions, when you connect two-phase equipment, are performed in the same way as you would connect a single-phase electrical panel.

How to connect an induction hob

Connecting an induction hob is not difficult. Of course, there are connection nuances, for equipment with different amount wires. Let's talk about the main positions of such work.

Tips for connecting the induction hob:

1. Determine how many wires are in your apartment.
2. Open the access panel on the back of the panel. Unscrew its cover with a screwdriver. Find the terminals.
3. If necessary, combine the wires into the required number of groups. Phases are combined into one group, neutrals into another, and the earth must pass separately.
4. Next, the wires of the panel are connected to the corresponding pins of the plug.

Connecting induction cookers, compared to gas stoves, is a completely simple task. Due to the fact that there is no burning in such models, you can use them without fear for your safety.

Connecting the induction hob yourself (video)

Which of the connection methods we have described you will have to use depends on the type of panel and the type of wiring. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust such work to electricians.

Cooktops are becoming more and more popular with housewives every year. Connecting a hob is much more difficult than a conventional one. cooker. Therefore, people often look on the Internet for information on how to properly connect the hob with their own hands.

How to connect a hob of any type - electric, gas, combined - with your own hands. Instructions and wiring diagram for the hob for non-professionals.

1. Gas.
2. Electrical.
3. Combined.

Gas panels are usually installed in gasified premises. With such devices during operation, problems rarely arise. Bosch gas hobs, for example, are easy to use and perfect for everyday cooking as well as gourmet meals for festive occasions.

AT recent times Bosch electric hobs are becoming increasingly popular due to the fact that the surface almost instantly heats up to desired temperature, and from an aesthetic point of view, electric panels look better than gas ones.

Combined hobs combine all the advantages of the first two types: you can use both gas burners and electric surfaces. Each type has its own specific connection scheme.

Connecting an electric hob

Before you connect the hob to the mains, you need to find out its power. Modern electric hobs consume a lot of electricity (up to 7 kW), so it is important to adequately assess the condition of the electrical wiring in order to avoid both damage to the appliance and accidental fire due to a breakdown in the mains.

Electric hobs come in two types:

• standard (with an ordinary metal disk);
• induction (they only heat the surface on which the dishes stand).

Despite the different principle of operation, the connection of electric hobs occurs according to the same principle. To connect the hob, it is not at all necessary to call the wizard. With strict adherence to the attached instructions, connecting the electrical panel on your own will not be difficult even for a non-professional.

Preparatory work

In order to save space, it is customary to build the electric panel into the countertop kitchen set. To do this, at the place of the planned placement, you need to cut a rectangle of the appropriate size with an electric jigsaw and embed the hob there.

Most people choose the traditional cable-plug-female panel connection. However, electricians recommend running a separate wire, specially selected according to the power of the device, directly into the junction box.

The standard terminal box of the hob, in particular the Bosch hob, whether induction or electric, has six contacts (grounding, three phase - L1, L2, L3, two zero - N1, N2 and ground wire - PE). A conventional three-core wiring cable used in 220 V networks is connected in this way. A phase wire (usually red, brown or gray) is connected to one of the first three contacts L1-L3 (previously interconnected by jumpers). The fourth and fifth contacts N1 and N2 are also connected by a jumper, a neutral wire(usually blue). And the third cable core (yellow-green, yellow) is connected to the grounding connector, marked with a special PE icon.

In networks with a voltage of 380 volts, as a rule, a five-core wire is used. In this case, remove the jumpers from the first three contacts of the terminal box and connect three phase wires to them. The neutral and ground conductors are mounted in the same way as in the case of a three-core cable. Using such a scheme, you can effectively distribute the voltage, protecting yourself from electric shock and possible ignition of the wiring.

Another option is to connect the induction and electric hob to a power outlet. In a standard socket, grounding is usually located along the central axis relative to the other two contacts. Then the voltage indicator determines the phase and zero connector (you can use the simplest screwdriver-tester: the light is on - phase, off - zero). Assemble the plug and attach the wires to the terminals, as in the above examples.

Thus, it is not difficult to connect an electrical surface on your own. It is enough to understand the simplest principles of electricity and to approach the matter responsibly.

Connecting a gas hob

A gas hob, similar to an electric hob, is also built into the countertop, having previously cut a rectangle of the desired size with a jigsaw. It is recommended to leave an indent between the slab and the wall of about 5-6 cm for the convenience of laying auxiliary communications.

Then you need to select the jets of the appropriate diameter. If you have a centralized gas supply, you will need some jets, if a cylinder is installed, others. Twisting is done with a gas wrench, after which the adapter corner is screwed. Since almost all hobs are equipped with an electric ignition system, you will need a flexible protective tube for the cable responsible for this function.

After completing the above operations, the hob is inserted into the cut out rectangle and fixed from below on special stands. From above, the gaps between the countertop and the panel are filled with sealant or other sealant. Then the previously installed adapter corner and the exit from gas pipe or cylinder are connected by a flexible corrugated hose certified by specialists gas service.

All work on connecting the central gas supply pipe to the gas hob must be carried out by specialists from the gas service of your management company.

Connecting the hob combined type is made on the basis of the same principles that apply to the connection of electrical and gas panels. Do not neglect safety precautions, follow the instructions clearly - then you will be able to independently and, most importantly, connect the hob with high quality.