Toilet cisterns can be made from different materials, can be various shapes and differ in the installation method, but their operating principle is almost the same, and the design of all drain tanks does not differ very much. Let's look at what types of such mechanisms there are.
According to the installation method, drain tanks are divided into only three types:
- The tank of the system is compact, which is installed directly on the toilet bowl itself;
- A cistern built into the wall, most often used in conjunction with wall-hung toilets;
- A hanging tank, which is mounted at a certain height and connected to the toilet bowl via a drain pipe.
Features of the mechanism for supplying water to the cistern
All flush tanks have only two main structural elements - a water supply mechanism and drain mechanism. The water collection system can be made in two versions:
- with side feed;
- with bottom feed.
The first are float valves designed for tanks, into which water is supplied to the upper side. These models are produced mainly by domestic companies, they are simple and not high cost, but in the process of collecting water they create a lot of noise.
Diagram of the toilet flush cistern
Such a valve includes two main parts - a body with a membrane located in it, which shuts off and opens the water supply to the tank, as well as a float connected to the body via a lever. Thus, falling and rising along with the water level in the tank, the float moves the lever, which in turn acts on the rod with the membrane attached to it, opening and closing the access of water to the tank through the valve.
The mechanism with bottom water supply is a little more expensive, but it is much quieter. This system is somewhat more complex; in it, the float moves along a special vertical rod, although the operating principle itself has not changed. The water supply shutoff mechanism is activated by a special rod connected to a float, which is also a water level limiter in the tank.
How to adjust the amount of water in the tank
When installing any of these systems, in order to save or increase flushing power, the amount of water drawn can be changed. We'll tell you what steps you need to take to do this:
The device of the flush mechanism of the toilet tank
The drainage system for the cistern can be top or side. The latter, however, will not be considered, since it presupposes the presence of a hanging tank, which is now practically out of use. But the top flush system is used on almost all models of modern toilets.
Toilet flush mechanism
Installation procedure for a toilet cistern (video)
You shouldn’t have any difficulties during the process, since everything is done very simply and quickly enough:
Possible malfunctions during operation of the drain tank
- Water is not supplied to the tank or its supply is not shut off. The culprits for this are either the water supply valve or the float. Floats are made either in the form of a hollow cylinder or an inverted glass. In the first case, the damaged float cannot be repaired, and the problem can only be eliminated by replacing the float or the entire valve. With a float in the form of an inverted glass, only one problem can happen - it becomes overgrown with dirt and various deposits, which is why it begins to work poorly. In this case, you should simply clean it.
Video
- If the float is ok, but water does not stop flowing into the tank– the reason is a worn valve membrane. Usually a spare membrane comes complete with another float. If you don't have one, you can purchase it separately. The protective cap is removed from the valve, after which the old membrane is removed and replaced with a new one. It is also useful to clean the small hole in the valve through which water enters the tank. If it gets clogged, then, accordingly, the tank stops filling or this process occurs extremely slowly.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the design of the toilet cistern, so if necessary, anyone can easily install or repair it.
Old style cisterns are simple in design. This makes the system quite reliable, but even the most primitive devices break down periodically.
If primitive people could repair hammers, then a modern Internet user has enough skills and knowledge to repair an old mechanism at home.
The design of these products is different water and a design designed using the simplest physical laws. The main components are: a filling device, consisting of a movable lever, on one side of which there is a float, and on the other, a valve that shuts off the water, and.
The most “ancient” toilet flush cisterns of the old style consist of cast iron bell plug with soft rubber gasket. When you press the outer lever, the bell rises and water rushes down through the opened hole.
In later designs the bell was replaced by rubber or plastic bulbs. When the container is empty, the float lowers and the lever opens the valve through which water begins to flow. As the container fills, the lightweight part rises until it reaches a position where water stops flowing into the device.
Possible breakdowns and repair methods
In any mechanism, even the most primitive one, sooner or later various parts begin to fail. Most breakdowns in old-style drainage devices are fairly easy to fix.
Continuous water supply
First of all, you need to check Is the filling valve leaking?. To do this, remove the cover and lift the float lever. If after this water enters the tank, it means that the valve itself is broken and needs to be replaced.
For this turn off the tap in front of the tank and drain the water. Using a wrench, the part connecting the valve to the water supply is unscrewed, the float lever is removed, the fixing nuts are removed, and the valve is pulled out. A new one is installed in its place. The float lever is set to the optimal position after water fills the housing.
If the water flow is completely blocked when the lever is raised, The problem may be caused by the following reasons:
- Skewed float lever (rod)– leads to the fact that it begins to cling to the bushing, the float does not float up completely and the valve does not close. In this case, the rod is pulled out and straightened.
- If the float seal is broken it remains partially or completely submerged in water and does not close the valve. In this case, it is replaced with a new one. If not suitable model, the damage can be sealed with heated plastic or sealant, after first removing all liquid from the leaking part, but this is a temporary measure.
Constant outflow of water
If it is not empty yet, it means that the tightness of the drain mechanism is broken and water seeps between the body and the bell (pear). There are several reasons that cause this malfunction:
- Corroded or dirty seat surface lead to the fact that deposits prevent the drain mechanism from closing tightly. In this case, it is cleaned with emery cloth.
- The appearance of a gap between the body and the seat lead to the same problems. In this case, it is necessary to tighten the fastening nuts with a socket wrench.
- Sometimes the guide bushing falls out of the seat– this leads to the constipation being skewed when lowering. In this case, the sleeve is inserted into the hole of the arc and wrapped with an elastic band.
- The culprit of the breakdown may also be the release lever., which in the wrong position prevents the pear from completely covering the saddle. In this case, you need to bend it and lower it below the inlet of the underwater pipe by 2.5 mm.
Second option - check the fastenings of the rocker arm holding plates and tighten any loose screws. This is quite difficult since the distance between the wall and the screw heads can be less than 10 cm.
You can try to tighten them with a short tool, pushing it into the screw slot. When performing these steps, you must ensure that the vertical plate with four corners is in the recess on the body.
Overflow problems
This is a fairly typical failure that is easy to identify. Water fills the tank and begins to flow out, if you turn off the tap, the flow of water from the device stops, and when you press the overflow socket, the flow stops - the fastening nut has become loose. In some cases, it is enough to turn the overflow several times clockwise and the nut will take its proper place.
Otherwise, you will have to resort to the following tricks. Need to drain the water from the tank, wait until all surfaces are dry.
If the nut does not unscrew completely, it appears between the overflow socket and the bottom of the tank wrap the gap tightly with sealing material and fill it with silicone glue or paint. Wait until the coating completely hardens.
If the nut is completely unscrewed, the overflow is removed, a sealant is wound onto its threads so that it fits tightly into the hole at the bottom of the tank.
Replacing the supply hose
Damage to the supply hose and gaskets at the junction leads to the appearance of water drops (the problem can be confused with) at the points where it is connected to the body of the drain device. First of all tighten the connecting nut.
If the leak remains, you need to turn off the water and disconnect the hose. The gasket is changed, the threads are covered with winding, the hose is reconnected to the tank and the nut is tightened.
Loud noise when filling
Sometimes, when filling an old type tank drain, it makes a loud noise that can wake up the household. Can replace the part with a special stabilizing device, and thus fix the problem. If the pressure entering the housing is not too strong, the problem can be solved much easier.
The filling valve mechanism includes a short tube for draining water. It needs install the muffler vertically from a flexible plastic or rubber hose, lowering the lower end into the water at the bottom. This will help to avoid noise when water falls and the sound of a jumping float.
To eliminate any problem that arises in the operation of an old-style toilet, it is enough to know how the flush cistern works and the tricks for fixing it.
Design Features
An advantage for us, as home plumbers, is the fact that many models on the plumbing market are based on the same operating principle.
You can always open the toilet tank yourself
Despite the modern age of technology and various manufacturers, Russian production toilets are no different from the European principle. Due to the consistency and quality of the cistern design, production technology has not changed for many decades.
The cistern is made from the following materials:
- cast iron;
- plastic;
- ceramics;
- faience.
In themed expensive hotels or villas you can find products made of marble and even granite. We are all familiar with the above materials, in particular, cast iron and ceramics. Earthenware is not so practical and reliable, and plastic, even more so, will not last more than two or three years.
A container for storing water, regardless of the material of production, is mounted in different ways:
- the tank is mounted right under the ceiling of the bathroom;
- the container is mounted on the toilet itself;
- the flush cistern is embedded directly into the wall behind the toilet, hiding behind a full wall or box made of plasterboard or ceramic tiles.
The old-style drain tank was installed according to the first two options. Nowadays you rarely see it under the ceiling, but directly on the toilet structure - yes, in almost every home.
The basis of the direct operation of the water tank is performed by shut-off valves, which are responsible for the timely filling of water and its drainage at the right time.
Auxiliary functions are performed by control parts: a button, handle, keys or other mechanism responsible for partial and complete drainage of water directly into the toilet.
When we use one of the controls, that is, press the button, the drain siphon is unlocked, and the water, in turn, leaves the container under decent pressure. The outlet valve then closes again and the inlet valve automatically opens and draws in water.
When the water level reaches the maximum permissible level, the shut-off valve automatically shuts off the water.
Design of a simple toilet cistern
The working condition of the drain tank is as follows: the tank is full of water, the outlet and inlet valves are closed, and water cannot enter or leave the tank.
We have indicated the general points of the old-style toilet cistern.
Not many of our compatriots are in a hurry to change the good old one, and most importantly, durable design still Soviet-made for a modern ceramic model, which does not inspire confidence.
Characteristic features of a Soviet-style toilet:
- manufacturing materials: cast iron or earthenware;
- the drain lever is located on the left or in the center of the product;
- water supply is exclusively lateral.
As for the aesthetic part, we can say this without comment. Indeed, at that time they did not particularly care about beauty; the toilet played an exclusively practical role.
Shut-off valves, presented in the form of a drain mechanism and a kind of automatic machine, were responsible for supplying water to such a tank. And the drainage of water was even more interesting: a wide outlet siphon, covered with a plastic or rubber valve, the mechanism in appearance resembles a plunger.
Toilet cistern design
Water is drained using a rod, which can be attached to the side lever or brought out to the central part of the lid.
The shut-off valve with a push button is connected by means of a lever to a plastic float, which moves in a vertical plane throughout the entire tank capacity.
When the internal volume of the tank is filled with water, the float rises and the lever rotates, thereby increasing the pressure on the intake valve stem. As soon as the degree of pressure on the rod equals the water pressure, the valve closes. In this case, the toilet cistern of the previous model is ready for use.
The advantage of a Soviet-style toilet cistern is the absence of many small parts and springs. This feature allows even a home plumber to adjust or repair shut-off valves.
Replacing broken parts is quite easy
Perhaps now such a mechanism seems primitive and outdated to you, but its quality and reliability exceeds any indicators of modern models.
Disadvantage of an outdated toilet: due to design features and softer requirements for water flow, shut-off valves cannot be replaced with a new mechanism. All you have to do is try to repair the device so that the fittings do not let water through and do not waste it in vain.
There is always a drastic way out - this is buying a new toilet with a modern cistern model, which is less troublesome and simple, but expensive.
The modern plumbing market is rich various models, satisfying our high aesthetic and practical needs. Of course, the toilet of the previous model is practical and reliable like no other, but today such products are no longer produced, and the models installed in our homes are becoming obsolete.
Toilet design for a better understanding of the problem
Gradually, old toilets begin to fail: they do not fill with water, drain too much water, lose their appearance and turn yellow. All you have to do is choose what you can do: study materials for repairing an old toilet or save up for a new model.
Integral attributes of comfortable living are the amenities of civilization familiar to humans, such as ergonomic furniture, stable water supply, properly planned lighting and plumbing that works without interruption. The proper operation of all the equipment listed is taken for granted, and a breakdown almost always comes as a surprise, bringing a lot of trouble. Most often, plumbing fixtures become the object of increased attention of homeowners, and in order to ensure its smooth functioning, it is necessary to take care of it in advance. correct installation, implying a strong connection of pipes and hoses, serviceability of fasteners and gaskets. If the plumbing equipment is used for a long period of time, a necessary condition Its uninterrupted operation is ensured by preventive inspections, which will allow timely detection of wear on fittings caused by inadequate water quality. Timely maintenance of plumbing equipment will prevent flooding in your home and the homes of your neighbors. In the event of a breakdown of plumbing equipment, the best solution is to call a plumber who will fix the breakdown as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you do not have the opportunity to call a specialist, you can independently repair the toilet cistern, the technology of which is not difficult.
The principle of the toilet: basic principles
To understand the breakdown and find the most the best way its elimination, it is necessary to study theoretical basis installation of plumbing equipment and understand how the water drain in the toilet works. Regardless of the design features of the toilet, any model is characterized by the presence of two main parts - a bowl located on the floor or mounted on the wall, and a water container located on top. It is this container that is the drain tank. The functioning of water drainage is based on the “hydraulic seal” principle, which involves flushing water into the drain under the influence of gravity when you press a button (lever), which opens the plug.
Differences between toilet flush cisterns: classification of flush cisterns
The modern market of plumbing equipment offers consumers wide choose various drainage devices related to various types and types. There are a large number of varieties of waste cisterns, which can be classified according to the many characteristics presented below.
Location of the tank in relation to the toilet
The traditional method of installing toilets, which has not lost its relevance today, involves the creation of a continuous structure that combines the cistern and toilet into a single whole. The advantage of this installation method is that there is no need to install an outlet pipe connecting the toilet bowl and the flush cistern.
Despite the advantages and reliability traditional way installations, hidden structures and wall-hung toilets are gaining popularity. The first option is ideal for apartments with European-quality renovation. It involves installing the cistern inside the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible. The system is started by pressing a special button located on the panel.
Hanging structures are another newfangled way to install toilets, which involves hanging the cistern at a certain height from the toilet bowl. A special feature of this design is the strong water pressure, which guarantees efficient drainage. However, it also has disadvantages, one of which is the excessive noise that is created during the process of draining water. Despite the presence of disadvantages, in general, such designs are considered one of the most practical and convenient, and their appearance will be an excellent addition to a retro-style interior.
Main types of triggers
The most common types of release mechanisms are push-button and rod drain devices, which have proven themselves to be one of the most reliable and durable systems. Push-button flush mechanisms are most relevant for flush tanks closed type. Their main element is a button, which can be located on the side of the drain bowl or in the center. There are single- and dual-mode push-button mechanisms. The latter implies the presence of two buttons: one of them drains the water completely, and the second half. This design principle will allow you to save water when the need arises. A similar principle of operation of a drainage device can be implemented using a single button, if the amount of water drained is determined by the degree to which the button is pressed.
Drain devices based on levers or chains are also gaining popularity. The manufacturer prefers to place such mechanisms in the side part of the drain structure. To drain the water, simply pull the lever or chain. This type of drainage system will be most relevant for wall-hung toilets. In view of these features, repair of the drain tank wall hung toilet will be slightly different. Regardless of the chosen type of installation of the cistern, a distinction is made between manual trigger, suggesting manual installation volume of drained water, and automatic.
Features of the water collection system
There are several types of fittings that regulate water supply:
- Lateral water supply, which involves the placement of fittings from above, is typical for plumbing equipment Russian manufacturers. Despite the fact that plumbing fixtures equipped with this mechanism are characterized by low cost, they are not in high demand, which is due to the rather noisy supply of water. Models that are more expensive are characterized by the use of a special tube that reduces noise, which helps supply water directly to the bottom.
- Lower water supply is typical for models from both domestic and foreign manufacturers that belong to a fairly high price category. The features of the bottom water supply mechanism reduce water noise to a minimum.
The device of the cistern: the main elements
In order to correctly determine the causes of malfunctions and eliminate them in a timely manner, it is necessary to at least general outline have an idea of the internal structure of the cistern. Despite the differences in the reinforcement structures of the cistern, it is characterized by a single design. Internal organization The drain tank implies the presence of the following elements:
- The shut-off or flush valve regulates the flow of water from the cistern into the toilet and prevents it from leaking unnecessarily. During the process of filling the tank, the water in it helps to tightly press the surface of the valve to the toilet flush, which stops the leakage of water. Thus, if the cistern is leaking water, this is due to a malfunction of the shut-off valves;
- A fill valve, which is combined with a water supply device and is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank. When water reaches a certain level, its supply to the tank stops. The water level indicator is a float connected to the filling valve via a brass rod. If the first models of drainage devices assumed a lateral location of the filling valve and a horizontal placement of the float, then modern models plumbers, while maintaining the traditional principle of operation, provide for the location of the filling valve at the bottom of the drain bowl, while the float is characterized by a vertical placement;
Important! Problems that lead to the need to repair the toilet cistern are most often associated with a malfunction of this particular mechanism and in most cases come down to its adjustment.
- The mechanism for draining and overflowing water, the design of which is presented plastic fittings equipped with start buttons. Its function is to prevent water from entering the room from the tank in the event of a malfunction of the float valve. The water overflow system connected to the drain comes into operation after pressing the start button. Excess water does not spill out due to the connection of the drain mechanism with overflow devices, which facilitates the exit excess water V sewer system. An important element of the system is a float valve connected to a float that regulates the water level in the tank. Malfunctions associated with the functioning of the float valve lead to water leaks from the tank.
Important! Each of these elements can become unusable, which will lead to the need for repair. In this regard, there is no need to consider problems associated with damage to the tank body, since in practice the elimination of cracks and chips of the body is almost impossible. This is due to the ineffectiveness of even the most modern adhesive compositions, which becomes the most common reason for replacing a toilet tank.
The most common malfunctions of the drain tank: methods for eliminating them
Water leakage into the room: causes and methods of troubleshooting
If you notice water appearing in the room, this is most likely caused by faulty fastenings. In this case, inexperienced homeowners will most likely panic and, thinking about replacing plumbing fixtures, will begin to search for an answer to the question: “How to install a toilet and avoid its breakdowns during operation?” But don't rush this problem easily removable. Let's consider the most common reasons occurrence of the indicated malfunction:
- Wear of the sealing ring installed between the tank and the toilet bowl;
- Violation of the integrity of the gaskets of the mounting bolts.
All these faults do not require complex diagnostics and can be detected even with a simple visual inspection. If you find these faults, try to tighten the fasteners without using excessive force, which could cause the tank to break or even compromise its integrity.
If you have performed the above manipulations and they were unsuccessful, experts recommend removing the drain tank and replacing it rubber seal on the drain channel. They also recommend replacing the gaskets and washers on the mounting bolts.
Important! To increase the density of joints, making them more reliable, experts recommend additional sealing with silicone.
What to do if water does not enter the tank?
This breakdown is also not uncommon, and its most common cause lies in clogging of the narrowest part of the valve. Fixing this problem will not cause difficulties - to do this, just release all the water from the tank and unscrew the valve along with the lever and float. After this, you will notice a fairly narrow hole designed for water to enter the tank. To remove blockages, clean it with a needle or thin wire. Next, you need to slightly unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe and flush out the remaining blockage. After making sure that water flows freely through the hole into the tank, tighten the valve and set the valve with the lever and the float to its original position.
Constant flow of water from the tank into the toilet: causes and solutions to the problem
The causes of this malfunction may be:
- Skewed float lever;
How to fix it? If you encounter this problem, it is enough to give the lever the optimal position for it.
Float damage, leading to the fact that it begins to let water inside itself. This inevitably leads to its rushing to the bottom of the tank, that is, the water that gets inside the float prevents it from returning to its original position, at which the flow is blocked tap water. If this does not happen, excess water is discharged into the toilet through the overflow system.
How to fix it? Only possible option Effective repair, in this case, is to replace the part.
To do this, the water is shut off along the riser, the device is dismantled, and a new, pre-purchased similar part is installed in its place.
Important! In order to repair toilet cistern fittings as efficiently as possible, when selecting them, experts recommend paying attention to the dimensions and design features parts, since some of them are not always interchangeable.
Important! In most cases, modern floats are made from plastic or stainless steel. Floats made from these materials are practically not subject to leakage.
Wear of sealing elements of drain fittings. Finding out whether the cause of the malfunction really lies in the wear of the sealing elements is quite simple. To do this, just slightly press the valve with your hand: if water starts flowing, then you are not mistaken, the problem really lies in the wear of the shut-off valve, rubber gaskets or seal. This breakdown can be eliminated by replacing consumables.
Float wear can also cause persistent leaks. In this case, a hole forms in the float, through which water flows out.
Important! If you do not have the necessary parts on hand when the problem occurs, perform a “temporary” repair. To do this, the hole formed in the float is sealed with heated plastic or a failed float is wrapped, plastic bag, thereby sealing it. It is important to remember to secure it around the float lever.
Repairing a toilet cistern with a button: procedure
How to remove the cover with one button?
- Unscrew the locking ring around the button. At the same time, it is important to avoid strong pressure on it, since plastic is used in most cases to make rings;
- Remove the cover and begin repairs.
As mentioned above, there may be several reasons for the constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet:
- Incorrect position of the float - in this case, simply remove the toilet lid and adjust the float.
- The rubber bulb on the float valve is worn out, as a result of which it does not provide a tight seal.
In this case, it is necessary to replace it. To do this, fix the float in the upper position and, by unscrewing the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the entire mechanism;
- Remove the old bulb and replace it with a similar model with similar characteristics.
- If the bolts holding the bulb are worn out, they must be replaced.
- To do this, drain the water from the tank, removing any remaining water;
- Unscrew the union nut located between the flexible hose and the float valve, as well as the bolts. With a little effort, tilt the tank and shelf back, releasing the rubber cuff located between the tank and the toilet;
- Unscrew the damaged bolt, as well as its pair, and remove them. It is important to replace both bolts, even if the integrity of the second is not yet compromised. To replace, select bolts of similar sizes made of brass or stainless steel;
- Remove the earthenware under the seat of the pear and clean it thoroughly, performing similar actions with the shelf and tank. Coat the pear silicone sealant, which will subsequently solve problems with its wear and prevent the need to replace it;
- After assembling the tank, tighten the structure with new bolts, while avoiding distortions. To prevent damage to fragile earthenware, do not use excessive force during assembly;
- Turn on the water and fill the tank, paying close attention to see if there are any leaks.
Failure of the trigger lever: how to fix it?
How can you determine that in your case this is exactly the problem? It's quite simple: if you pressed the water release button, but the drainage did not start, this chapter will be useful for you.
The reason for such a malfunction lies in the violation of traction, and the only correct solution is to replace it.
Important! In this case, you can also make a “temporary repair” by making a rod from thick wire and twisting it in several layers. However, improvised traction does not have a long service life - over time, the wire will begin to bend, which will also lead to its failure.
Before you begin repairing the old toilet cistern in this case, loosen the button from the cistern lid. To do this, turn the decorative nut a few turns - in most cases this is enough to lift the cover, gaining access to the mechanism.
Noisy filling of the tank with water: how to fix it?
Often craftsmen have to face this problem, and this is especially true for owners of plumbing equipment characterized by the presence of tanks with a side water supply. After a certain period of time, the tank’s capacity begins to fill with noise, which was not the case “at the dawn” of operation.
Most often, the cause of this malfunction is the disconnection of the water muffler, which is a special tube through which water is supplied to the lower part of the tank without any noise effects.
To eliminate this malfunction, put the damper on a specially designed fitting.
Repair of toilet cistern with video button
Any home cannot do without a toilet. It is used much more often than all other plumbing fixtures, so it breaks down most often. Its most vulnerable component is the tank. Due to mechanical damage to its internal components, the device becomes inoperable, and the owners will have to repair the old-style toilet cistern. Old-style cisterns have not been produced for a long time, but they can be found in apartments throughout the country, which confirms their reliable operation and durability.
Device
Repairing an old-style toilet cistern with your own hands begins with studying its structure and features. The main difference lies in the fittings, in which the water supply is lateral, and in the design, in which the simplest physical laws are involved.
The main components are presented:
- A filling device, which includes a movable lever with a float and a valve for shutting off the water;
- Drain mechanism.
The design of the most “ancient” drainage devices includes a cast iron bell - a plug with a soft rubber gasket. After pressing the outer lever, the bell rises and the water moves down through the opened hole.
Important! This design is distinguished by great reliability, because the products last for half a century, and repair work only periodic replacement of the worn gasket is required.
Later designs are equipped with a rubber or plastic bulb instead of a bell. When the container is released, the float lowers, after which the valve opens, releasing water.
Let's look at the differences between old-style drain systems:
- Unattractive appearance. Previously, external attractiveness was not so important; more attention was paid to the reliability of components and their performance. Therefore, the appearance of old products is not very aesthetic, with a primitive shape and a roughly processed surface.
- Location of the tank. Most often, the location of the container is under the ceiling, and a pipe is intended for the passage of water - a riser. Due to this, the water flow develops a high speed, which leads to high-quality flushing, but at the same time a lot of noise is heard.
- Design features of shut-off valves. Such products are distinguished by a very unique flushing system. It is based on the principle of a rocker arm; to operate, you need to pull a rope or chain. The design is very simple; no instructions are required for assembly.
- High water consumption. Such designs do not use economical drainage modes; the water leaves in full.
- Intake system. Water is supplied only from the side, which makes it impossible to hide the hoses.
Important! In some cases, it is more advisable to replace the tank with a more a modern product, for example, if the damage is too extensive.
Common breakdowns and repair options
Any, even the most primitive mechanism, can break down over time. How to fix an old style toilet cistern? Even a non-professional can fix most breakdowns; there is nothing complicated about it.
Water flows continuously
In this case, we first check if there is a leak in the filling valve. For this:
- Remove the cover.
- Raise the float lever.
- If the flow of water continues, turn off the tap in front of the tank and drain the water.
- By using wrench unscrew the part where the valve and water supply are connected.
- We remove the float lever and the fixing nuts, take out the valve and replace it with a new one.
If the water flow stops after lifting the lever, the problem may be due to:
- The float lever is skewed, causing it to catch on the bushing. As a result, the float fails to float up completely and the valve fails to close. In this case, you need to pull out and straighten the rod.
- Float seal failure. In this case, it remains partially or completely immersed in water, and the valve fails to close.
- The problem is solved by installing a new part. If a necessary part is missing, heated plastic or sealant is used to repair the damage.
Water is constantly leaking
Toilet flush tanks can be repaired even if the water completely leaks out. This sign indicates a violation of the tightness of the drain mechanism, in which water leaks between the bell and the body. This fault may be caused by:
- Corrosion or contamination of the seat surface. Due to deposits, the drain mechanism cannot close tightly. To eliminate the problem, clean the surface with sandpaper.
- The appearance of a gap between the seat and the body. For repairs, use a socket wrench to tighten the fastening nuts.
- The guide bushing falls out of the seat. Due to such a breakdown, the constipation becomes distorted when lowered. In this case, insert the sleeve into the hole of the arc and wrap it with an elastic band.
- Incorrect position of the release lever. The bulb does not completely cover the seat and water flows constantly. To get rid of the problem, bend the lever and lower it below the inlet of the underwater pipe by 2.5 mm. In addition, be sure to check the fasteners that hold the rocker arm and tighten any loose screws.
Important! You will need a short tool to tighten the screws. During the work, be sure to ensure that the vertical plate with four corners does not move out of the recess on the body.
Problems with the supply hose
If damage appears on the supply hose or gaskets at the junction, drops will appear in the places where the hose connects to the body. We carry out repairs in the following sequence:
- Tighten the connecting nut.
- We turn off the water.
- Disconnect the hose.
- We are replacing the gasket.
- We apply a winding to the thread.
- Attach the hose to the tank.
- Tighten the nut.
Loud noise
Even if the flushing mechanism for the toilet is not broken, repairs are carried out. Even if the device seems to be working, it produces a lot of noise.
To solve the problem, you can install a special stabilizing device instead of the part. If water flows into the tank with low pressure, the problem can be solved much easier. The filling valve mechanism includes a tube through which water is released. We install a muffler vertically on it, the lower end of which is lowered into the water at the bottom. To make a muffler we use a flexible hose made of rubber or plastic. After this update, the noise from falling water and the sound of a jumping float will disappear.